Management of Beach Nourishment in an Open Sand System
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A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach
CHAPTER 157 A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach A.J. Fernandez* G. Gomez Pina * G. Cuena* J.L. Ramirez* Abstract The performance of a beach nourishment at" Playa de Castilla" (Huel- va, Spain) is evaluated by means of accurate beach profile surveys, vi- sual breaking wave information, buoy-measured wave data and sediment samples. The shoreline recession at the nourished beach due to "profile equilibration" and "spreading out" losses is discussed. The modified equi- librium profile curve proposed by Larson (1991) is shown to accurately describe the profiles with a grain size varying across-shore. The "spread- ing out" losses measured at " Playa de Castilla" are found to be less than predicted by spreading out formulations. The utilization of borrowed material substantially coarser than the native material is suggested as an explanation. 1 INTRODUCTION Fernandez et al. (1990) presented a case study of a sand bypass project at "Playa de Castilla" (Huelva, Spain) and the corresponding monitoring project, that was going to be undertaken. The Beach Nourishment Monitoring Project at the "Playa de Castilla" was begun over two years ago. The project is being *Direcci6n General de Costas. M.O.P.T, Madrid (Spain) 2043 2044 COASTAL ENGINEERING 1992 carried out to evaluate the performance of a beach fill and to establish effective strategies of coastal management and represents one of the most comprehensive monitoring projects that has been undertaken in Spain. This paper summa- rizes and discusses the data set for wave climate, beach profiles and sediment samples. 2 STUDY SITE & MONITORING PROGRAM Playa de Castilla, Fig. 1, is a sandy beach located on the South-West coast of Spain between the Guadiana and Gualdalquivir rivers. -
Management of Coastal Erosion by Creating Large-Scale and Small-Scale Sediment Cells
COASTAL EROSION CONTROL BASED ON THE CONCEPT OF SEDIMENT CELLS by L. C. van Rijn, www.leovanrijn-sediment.com, March 2013 1. Introduction Nearly all coastal states have to deal with the problem of coastal erosion. Coastal erosion and accretion has always existed and these processes have contributed to the shaping of the present coastlines. However, coastal erosion now is largely intensified due to human activities. Presently, the total coastal area (including houses and buildings) lost in Europe due to marine erosion is estimated to be about 15 km2 per year. The annual cost of mitigation measures is estimated to be about 3 billion euros per year (EUROSION Study, European Commission, 2004), which is not acceptable. Although engineering projects are aimed at solving the erosion problems, it has long been known that these projects can also contribute to creating problems at other nearby locations (side effects). Dramatic examples of side effects are presented by Douglas et al. (The amount of sand removed from America’s beaches by engineering works, Coastal Sediments, 2003), who state that about 1 billion m3 (109 m3) of sand are removed from the beaches of America by engineering works during the past century. The EUROSION study (2004) recommends to deal with coastal erosion by restoring the overall sediment balance on the scale of coastal cells, which are defined as coastal compartments containing the complete cycle of erosion, deposition, sediment sources and sinks and the transport paths involved. Each cell should have sufficient sediment reservoirs (sources of sediment) in the form of buffer zones between the land and the sea and sediment stocks in the nearshore and offshore coastal zones to compensate by natural or artificial processes (nourishment) for sea level rise effects and human-induced erosional effects leading to an overall favourable sediment status. -
Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components A
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 107, NO. C8, 3095, 10.1029/2001JC000970, 2002 Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components A. Sheremet,1 R. T. Guza,2 S. Elgar,3 and T. H. C. Herbers4 Received 14 May 2001; revised 5 December 2001; accepted 20 December 2001; published 6 August 2002. [1] The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5. -
Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California S
LITTORAL CELLS, SAND BUDGETS, AND BEACHES: UNDERSTANDING CALIFORNIA’ S SHORELINE KIKI PATSCH GARY GRIGGS OCTOBER 2006 INSTITUTE OF MARINE SCIENCES UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SANTA CRUZ CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF BOATING AND WATERWAYS CALIFORNIA COASTAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT WORKGROUP Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California’s Shoreline By Kiki Patch Gary Griggs Institute of Marine Sciences University of California, Santa Cruz California Department of Boating and Waterways California Coastal Sediment Management WorkGroup October 2006 Cover Image: Santa Barbara Harbor © 2002 Kenneth & Gabrielle Adelman, California Coastal Records Project www.californiacoastline.org Brochure Design & Layout Laura Beach www.LauraBeach.net Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California’s Shoreline Kiki Patsch Gary Griggs Institute of Marine Sciences University of California, Santa Cruz TABLE OF CONTENTS Executive Summary 7 Chapter 1: Introduction 9 Chapter 2: An Overview of Littoral Cells and Littoral Drift 11 Chapter 3: Elements Involved in Developing Sand Budgets for Littoral Cells 17 Chapter 4: Sand Budgets for California’s Major Littoral Cells and Changes in Sand Supply 23 Chapter 5: Discussion of Beach Nourishment in California 27 Chapter 6: Conclusions 33 References Cited and Other Useful References 35 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY he coastline of California can be divided into a set of dis- Beach nourishment or beach restoration is the placement of Ttinct, essentially self-contained littoral cells or beach com- sand on the shoreline with the intent of widening a beach that partments. These compartments are geographically limited and is naturally narrow or where the natural supply of sand has consist of a series of sand sources (such as rivers, streams and been signifi cantly reduced through human activities. -
Beach Nourishment: Massdep's Guide to Best Management Practices for Projects in Massachusetts
BBEACHEACH NNOURISHMEOURISHMENNTT MassDEP’sMassDEP’s GuideGuide toto BestBest ManagementManagement PracticesPractices forfor ProjectsProjects inin MassachusettsMassachusetts March 2007 acknowledgements LEAD AUTHORS: Rebecca Haney (Coastal Zone Management), Liz Kouloheras, (MassDEP), Vin Malkoski (Mass. Division of Marine Fisheries), Jim Mahala (MassDEP) and Yvonne Unger (MassDEP) CONTRIBUTORS: From MassDEP: Fred Civian, Jen D’Urso, Glenn Haas, Lealdon Langley, Hilary Schwarzenbach and Jim Sprague. From Coastal Zone Management: Bob Boeri, Mark Borrelli, David Janik, Julia Knisel and Wendolyn Quigley. Engineering consultants from Applied Coastal Research and Engineering Inc. also reviewed the document for technical accuracy. Lead Editor: David Noonan (MassDEP) Design and Layout: Sandra Rabb (MassDEP) Photography: Sandra Rabb (MassDEP) unless otherwise noted. Massachusetts Massachusetts Office Department of of Coastal Zone Environmental Protection Management 1 Winter Street 251 Causeway Street Boston, MA Boston, MA table of contents I. Glossary of Terms 1 II. Summary 3 II. Overview 6 • Purpose 6 • Beach Nourishment 6 • Specifications and Best Management Practices 7 • Permit Requirements and Timelines 8 III. Technical Attachments A. Beach Stability Determination 13 B. Receiving Beach Characterization 17 C. Source Material Characterization 21 D. Sample Problem: Beach and Borrow Site Sediment Analysis to Determine Stability of Nourishment Material for Shore Protection 22 E. Generic Beach Monitoring Plan 27 F. Sample Easement 29 G. References 31 GLOSSARY Accretion - the gradual addition of land by deposition of water-borne sediment. Beach Fill – also called “artificial nourishment”, “beach nourishment”, “replenishment”, and “restoration,” comprises the placement of sediment within the nearshore sediment transport system (see littoral zone). (paraphrased from Dean, 2002) Beach Profile – the cross-sectional shape of a beach plotted perpendicular to the shoreline. -
Mapping Turbidity Currents Using Seismic Oceanography Title Page Abstract Introduction 1 2 E
Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Ocean Sci. Discuss., 8, 1803–1818, 2011 www.ocean-sci-discuss.net/8/1803/2011/ Ocean Science doi:10.5194/osd-8-1803-2011 Discussions OSD © Author(s) 2011. CC Attribution 3.0 License. 8, 1803–1818, 2011 This discussion paper is/has been under review for the journal Ocean Science (OS). Mapping turbidity Please refer to the corresponding final paper in OS if available. currents using seismic E. A. Vsemirnova and R. W. Hobbs Mapping turbidity currents using seismic oceanography Title Page Abstract Introduction 1 2 E. A. Vsemirnova and R. W. Hobbs Conclusions References 1Geospatial Research Ltd, Department of Earth Sciences, Tables Figures Durham University, Durham DH1 3LE, UK 2Department of Earth Sciences, Durham University, Durham DH1 3LE, UK J I Received: 25 May 2011 – Accepted: 12 August 2011 – Published: 18 August 2011 J I Correspondence to: R. W. Hobbs ([email protected]) Published by Copernicus Publications on behalf of the European Geosciences Union. Back Close Full Screen / Esc Printer-friendly Version Interactive Discussion 1803 Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Abstract OSD Using a combination of seismic oceanographic and physical oceanographic data ac- quired across the Faroe-Shetland Channel we present evidence of a turbidity current 8, 1803–1818, 2011 that transports suspended sediment along the western boundary of the Channel. We 5 focus on reflections observed on seismic data close to the sea-bed on the Faroese Mapping turbidity side of the Channel below 900m. Forward modelling based on independent physi- currents using cal oceanographic data show that thermohaline structure does not explain these near seismic sea-bed reflections but they are consistent with optical backscatter data, dry matter concentrations from water samples and from seabed sediment traps. -
Modeling Regional Coastal Evolution in the Bight Of
MODELING REGIONAL COASTAL EVOLUTION IN THE BIGHT OF BENIN, GULF OF GUINEA, WEST AFRICA Ondoa Gregoire Abessolo, Magnus Larson, Rafael Almar, Bruno Castelle, Edward Anthony, Johan Reyns To cite this version: Ondoa Gregoire Abessolo, Magnus Larson, Rafael Almar, Bruno Castelle, Edward Anthony, et al.. MODELING REGIONAL COASTAL EVOLUTION IN THE BIGHT OF BENIN, GULF OF GUINEA, WEST AFRICA. Coastal Sediments’19, May 2019, Tampa, United States. 10.1142/9789811204487_0178. hal-02394959 HAL Id: hal-02394959 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-02394959 Submitted on 11 Dec 2019 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. MODELING REGIONAL COASTAL EVOLUTION IN THE BIGHT OF BENIN, GULF OF GUINEA, WEST AFRICA ONDOA GREGOIRE ABESSOLO1,2, MAGNUS LARSON3, RAFAEL ALMAR1, BRUNO CASTELLE4, EDWARD J. ANTHONY5, J. REYNS6,7 1. LEGOS, OMP, UMR 5566 (CNRS/CNES/IRD/Université de Toulouse), 14 Avenue Edouard Belin, 31400, Toulouse, France. [email protected], [email protected]. 2. Ecosystems and Fisheries Resources Laboratory, University of Douala, BP 2701, Douala, Cameroun. 3. Department of Water Resources Engineering, Lund University, Box 118, S-221 00, Lund, Sweden. [email protected]. 4. EPOC, OASU, UMR 5805 (CNRS - Université de Bordeaux), Allée Geoffroy Saint- Hilaire – CS 50023 – 33615, Pessac Cedex, France. -
1 the Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration
1 The Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration 2 of Soft Cliff Coastlines 3 4 Sally Brown1*, Max Barton1, Robert J Nicholls1 5 6 1. Faculty of Engineering and the Environment, University of Southampton, 7 University Road, Highfield, Southampton, UK. S017 1BJ. 8 9 * Sally Brown ([email protected], Telephone: +44(0)2380 594796). 10 11 Abstract: Building defences, such as groynes, on eroding soft cliff coastlines alters the 12 sediment budget, changing the shoreline configuration adjacent to defences. On the 13 down-drift side, the coastline is set-back. This is often believed to be caused by increased 14 erosion via the ‘terminal groyne effect’, resulting in rapid land loss. This paper examines 15 whether the terminal groyne effect always occurs down-drift post defence construction 16 (i.e. whether or not the retreat rate increases down-drift) through case study analysis. 17 18 Nine cases were analysed at Holderness and Christchurch Bay, England. Seven out of 19 nine sites experienced an increase in down-drift retreat rates. For the two remaining sites, 20 retreat rates remained constant after construction, probably as a sediment deficit already 21 existed prior to construction or as sediment movement was restricted further down-drift. 22 For these two sites, a set-back still evolved, leading to the erroneous perception that a 23 terminal groyne effect had developed. Additionally, seven of the nine sites developed a 24 set back up-drift of the initial groyne, leading to the defended sections of coast acting as 1 25 a hard headland, inhabiting long-shore drift. -
Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing Stephanie Contardo 1,*, Graham Symonds 2, Laura E. Segura 3, Ryan J. Lowe 4 and Jeff E. Hansen 2 1 CSIRO Oceans and Atmosphere, Crawley 6009, Australia 2 Faculty of Science, School of Earth Sciences, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] (G.S.); jeff[email protected] (J.E.H.) 3 Departamento de Física, Universidad Nacional, Heredia 3000, Costa Rica; [email protected] 4 Faculty of Engineering and Mathematical Sciences, Oceans Graduate School, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 18 September 2019; Accepted: 23 October 2019; Published: 28 October 2019 Abstract: An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea 1 breeze cycle at the study site (wind speeds frequently > 10 m s− ) produced diurnal variations in the peak frequency of the incident waves, with wind sea conditions (periods 2 to 8 s) dominating during the peak of the sea breeze and swell (periods 8 to 20 s) dominating during times of low wind. We observed that edge wave modes and their frequency distribution varied with the frequency of the short-wave forcing (swell or wind-sea) and edge waves were more energetic than leaky waves for the duration of the 10-day experiment. -
Island Wakes in the Southern California Bight R
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 110, C11012, doi:10.1029/2004JC002675, 2005 Island wakes in the Southern California Bight R. M. A. Caldeira,1,2 P. Marchesiello,3 N. P. Nezlin,4 P. M. DiGiacomo,5 and J. C. McWilliams3 Received 19 August 2004; revised 21 February 2005; accepted 14 June 2005; published 18 November 2005. [1] Wind- and current-induced island wakes were investigated using a multiplatform approach of in situ, remote sensing, and numerical model simulations for the Southern California Bight (SCB). Island wind wakes are a result of sheltering from the wind, with weak wind mixing, strong heat storage, and consequent high sea surface temperature (SST). Wind wakes around Santa Catalina Island are most persistent during spring and summer months. Current wakes, caused by the disruption of the poleward traveling California Countercurrent, induce eddies to form off the north end of Catalina Island, and these move poleward every 9–12 days. Current wake eddies induce strong mixing, with low SST and high-density sea surface signatures, whereas wind wakes induce high sea surface temperature signatures associated with the formation of a well-defined shallow thermocline. Current wake eddies vary from 1 to 30 km in diameter. From numerical solutions we predicted the frequency of occurrence of current-induced wakes off Santa Catalina Island. Wind wakes were also observed off all the other islands of the SCB as seen from the analysis of synthetic aperture radar data. Time series analysis of the island mass effect phenomenon has shown a concurrence of low SST and high sea surface chlorophyll for Santa Catalina, San Nicholas, and San Clemente islands that might be related to the seasonality of the California Current and California Countercurrent. -
Coastal and Ocean Engineering
May 18, 2020 Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton Institute of Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources Management Vienna University of Technology, Karlsplatz 13/222, 1040 Vienna, Austria URL: http://johndfenton.com/ URL: mailto:[email protected] Abstract This course introduces maritime engineering, encompassing coastal and ocean engineering. It con- centrates on providing an understanding of the many processes at work when the tides, storms and waves interact with the natural and human environments. The course will be a mixture of descrip- tion and theory – it is hoped that by understanding the theory that the practicewillbemadeallthe easier. There is nothing quite so practical as a good theory. Table of Contents References ....................... 2 1. Introduction ..................... 6 1.1 Physical properties of seawater ............. 6 2. Introduction to Oceanography ............... 7 2.1 Ocean currents .................. 7 2.2 El Niño, La Niña, and the Southern Oscillation ........10 2.3 Indian Ocean Dipole ................12 2.4 Continental shelf flow ................13 3. Tides .......................15 3.1 Introduction ...................15 3.2 Tide generating forces and equilibrium theory ........15 3.3 Dynamic model of tides ...............17 3.4 Harmonic analysis and prediction of tides ..........19 4. Surface gravity waves ..................21 4.1 The equations of fluid mechanics ............21 4.2 Boundary conditions ................28 4.3 The general problem of wave motion ...........29 4.4 Linear wave theory .................30 4.5 Shoaling, refraction and breaking ............44 4.6 Diffraction ...................50 4.7 Nonlinear wave theories ...............51 1 Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton 5. The calculation of forces on ocean structures ...........54 5.1 Structural element much smaller than wavelength – drag and inertia forces .....................54 5.2 Structural element comparable with wavelength – diffraction forces ..56 6. -
Guidance for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping
Guidance for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping Coastal Notations, Acronyms, and Glossary of Terms May 2016 Requirements for the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) Risk Mapping, Assessment, and Planning (Risk MAP) Program are specified separately by statute, regulation, or FEMA policy (primarily the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping). This document provides guidance to support the requirements and recommends approaches for effective and efficient implementation. Alternate approaches that comply with all requirements are acceptable. For more information, please visit the FEMA Guidelines and Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping webpage (www.fema.gov/guidelines-and-standards-flood-risk-analysis-and- mapping). Copies of the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping policy, related guidance, technical references, and other information about the guidelines and standards development process are all available here. You can also search directly by document title at www.fema.gov/library. Coastal Notation, Acronyms, and Glossary of Terms May 2016 Guidance Document 66 Page i Document History Affected Section or Date Description Subsection Initial version of new transformed guidance. The content was derived from the Guidelines and Specifications for Flood Hazard Mapping Partners, Procedure Memoranda, First Publication May 2016 and/or Operating Guidance documents. It has been reorganized and is being published separately from the standards. Coastal Notation, Acronyms, and Glossary of Terms May 2016 Guidance Document 66