Management of Coastal Erosion by Creating Large-Scale and Small-Scale Sediment Cells
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Coastal Erosion - Orrin H
COASTAL ZONES AND ESTUARIES – Coastal Erosion - Orrin H. Pilkey, William J. Neal, David M. Bush COASTAL EROSION Orrin H. Pilkey Program for the Study of Developed Shorelines, Division of Earth and Ocean Sciences, Duke University, Durham, NC, U.S.A. William J. Neal Department of Geology, Grand Valley State University, Allendale, MI, USA. David M. Bush Department of Geosciences, State University of West Georgia, Carrollton, GA, USA. Keywords: erosion, shoreline retreat, sea level rise, barrier islands, beach, coastal management, shoreline armoring, seawalls, sand supply Contents 1. Introduction 2. Causes of Erosion 2.1. Sea Level Rise 2.2. Sand Supply 2.3. Shoreline Engineering 2.4. Wave Energy and Storm Frequency 3. "Special" Cases 4. Solutions to Coastal Erosion 5. The Future Glossary Bibliography Biographical Sketches Summary Almost all of the world’s shorelines are retreating in a landward direction—a process called shoreline erosion. Sea level rise and the reduction of sand supply to the shoreline by damming of rivers, armoring of shorelines and the dredging of navigation channels are among the major causes of shoreline retreat. As sea levels continue to rise, sometimesUNESCO enhanced by subsidence caused – byEOLSS oil and water extraction, global erosion rates should increase in coming decades. Three response alternatives are available to "solve" the erosionSAMPLE problem. These are cons tructionCHAPTERS of seawalls and other engineering structures, beach nourishment and relocation or abandonment of buildings. No matter what path is chosen, response to the erosion problem is costly. 1. Introduction Coastal erosion is a major problem for developed shorelines everywhere in the world. Such erosion is regarded as a coastal hazard and is a common focus of local and national coastal management. -
Coastal Flood Defences - Groynes
Coastal Flood Defences - Groynes Coastal flood defences are key to protecting our coasts against flooding, which is when normally dry, low lying flat land is inundated by sea water. Hard engineering methods are forms of coastal flood defences which mitigate the risk of flooding and coastal erosion and the consequential effects. Hard Engineering Hard engineering methods are often used as a temporary measure to protect against coastal flooding as they are costly and only last for a relatively short amount of time before they require maintenance. However, they are very effective at protecting the coastline in the short-term as they are immediately effective as opposed to some longer term soft engineering methods. But they are often intrusive and can cause issues elsewhere at other areas along the coastline. Groynes are low lying wood or concrete structures which are situated out to sea from the shore. They are designed to trap sediment, dissipate wave energy and restrict the transfer of sediment away from the beach through long shore drift. Longshore drift is caused when prevailing winds blow waves across the shore at an angle which carries sediment along the beach.Groynes prevent this process and therefore, slow the process of erosion at the shore. They can also be permeable or impermeable, permeable groynes allow some sediment to pass through and some longshore drift to take place. However, impermeable groynes are solid and prevent the transfer of any sediment. Advantages and Disadvantages +Groynes are easy to construct. +They have long term durability and are low maintenance. +They reduce the need for the beach to be maintained through beach nourishment and the recycling of sand. -
Coastal Processes and Causes of Shoreline Erosion and Accretion Causes of Shoreline Erosion and Accretion
Coastal Processes and Causes of Shoreline Erosion and Accretion and Accretion Erosion Causes of Shoreline Heather Weitzner, Great Lakes Coastal Processes and Hazards Specialist Photo by Brittney Rogers, New York Sea Grant York Photo by Brittney Rogers, New New York Sea Grant Waves breaking on the eastern Lake Ontario shore. Wayne County Cooperative Extension A shoreline is a dynamic environment that evolves under the effects of both natural 1581 Route 88 North and human influences. Many areas along New York’s shorelines are naturally subject Newark, NY 14513-9739 315.331.8415 to erosion. Although human actions can impact the erosion process, natural coastal processes, such as wind, waves or ice movement are constantly eroding and/or building www.nyseagrant.org up the shoreline. This constant change may seem alarming, but erosion and accretion (build up of sediment) are natural phenomena experienced by the shoreline in a sort of give and take relationship. This relationship is of particular interest due to its impact on human uses and development of the shore. This fact sheet aims to introduce these processes and causes of erosion and accretion that affect New York’s shorelines. Waves New York’s Sea Grant Extension Program Wind-driven waves are a primary source of coastal erosion along the Great provides Equal Program and Lakes shorelines. Factors affecting wave height, period and length include: Equal Employment Opportunities in 1. Fetch: the distance the wind blows over open water association with Cornell Cooperative 2. Length of time the wind blows Extension, U.S. Department 3. Speed of the wind of Agriculture and 4. -
Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected]
University of South Florida Scholar Commons Graduate Theses and Dissertations Graduate School January 2012 Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd Part of the American Studies Commons, Geology Commons, and the Geomorphology Commons Scholar Commons Citation Roberts, Tiffany, "Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches" (2012). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches by Tiffany M. Roberts A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Geology College of Arts and Sciences University of South Florida Major Professor: Ping Wang, Ph.D. Bogdan P. Onac, Ph.D. Nathaniel Plant, Ph.D. Jack A. Puleo, Ph.D. Julie D. Rosati, Ph.D. Date of Approval: July 12, 2012 Keywords: barrier island beaches, beach morphodynamics, beach nourishment, longshore sediment transport, cross-shore sediment transport. Copyright © 2012, Tiffany M. Roberts Dedication To my eternally supportive mother, Darlene, my brother and sister, Trey and Amber, my aunt Pat, and the friends who have been by my side through every challenge and triumph. -
Coastal Zone and Estuaries
CONTENTS COASTAL ZONE AND ESTUARIES Coastal Zone and Estuaries - Volume 1 No. of Pages: 540 ISBN: 978-1-84826-016-0 (eBook) ISBN: 978-1-84826-466-3 (Print Volume) For more information of e-book and Print Volume(s) order, please click here Or contact : [email protected] ©Encyclopedia of Life Support Systems (EOLSS) COASTAL ZONES AND ESTUARIES CONTENTS Coastal Zone and Estuaries 1 Federico Ignacio Isla, Centro de Geología de Costas y del Cuaternario, Universidad Nacional de Mar del Plata, Argentina 1. The Coastal Zone 1.1. Climate Change 1.2. Sea Level and Sea Ice Fluctuations 1.3. Coastal Processes 1.4. Sediment Delivery 1.5. Beaches 1.6. Tidal Flats and Marshes 1.7. Mangroves 1.8. Coral Reefs, Coral Cays, Sea Grasses, and Seaweeds 1.9. Eutrophication and Pollution 1.10. Coastal Evolution 2. Estuarine Environments 2.1. Estuaries 2.2. Coastal Lagoons 2.3. Deltas 2.4. Estuarine Evolution 3. Coastal Management 4. New Techniques in Coastal Science 5. Concluding Remarks Coastal Erosion 32 Orrin H. Pilkey, Program for the Study of Developed Shorelines, Division of Earth and Ocean Sciences, Duke University, Durham, NC, U.S.A. William J. Neal, Department of Geology, Grand Valley State University, Allendale, MI, USA. David M. Bush, Department of Geosciences, State University of West Georgia, Carrollton, GA, USA. 1. Introduction 2. Causes of Erosion 2.1. Sea Level Rise 2.2. Sand Supply 2.3. Shoreline Engineering 2.4. Wave Energy and Storm Frequency 3. Special Cases 4. Solutions to Coastal Erosion 5. The Future Waves and Sediment Transport in the Nearshore Zone 43 Robin G. -
Part III-2 Longshore Sediment Transport
Chapter 2 EM 1110-2-1100 LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT (Part III) 30 April 2002 Table of Contents Page III-2-1. Introduction ............................................................ III-2-1 a. Overview ............................................................. III-2-1 b. Scope of chapter ....................................................... III-2-1 III-2-2. Longshore Sediment Transport Processes ............................... III-2-1 a. Definitions ............................................................ III-2-1 b. Modes of sediment transport .............................................. III-2-3 c. Field identification of longshore sediment transport ........................... III-2-3 (1) Experimental measurement ............................................ III-2-3 (2) Qualitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude and direction ......................................................... III-2-5 (3) Quantitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude ..................... III-2-6 (4) Longshore sediment transport estimations in the United States ................. III-2-7 III-2-3. Predicting Potential Longshore Sediment Transport ...................... III-2-7 a. Energy flux method .................................................... III-2-10 (1) Historical background ............................................... III-2-10 (2) Description ........................................................ III-2-10 (3) Variation of K with median grain size................................... III-2-13 (4) Variation of K with -
Types and Causes of Beach Erosion Anomaly Areas in the U.S. East Coast Barrier Island System: Stabilized Tidal Inlets
Middle States Geographer, 2007, 40:158-170 TYPES AND CAUSES OF BEACH EROSION ANOMALY AREAS IN THE U.S. EAST COAST BARRIER ISLAND SYSTEM: STABILIZED TIDAL INLETS Francis A. Galgano Jr. Department of Geography and the Environment Villanova University 800 Lancaster Avenue Villanova, Pennsylvania 19085 ABSTRACT: Contemporary research suggests that most U.S. beaches are eroding, and this has become an important political and economic issue because beachfront development is increasingly at risk. In fact, the Heinz Center and Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) estimate that over the next 60 years, beach erosion may claim one out of four homes within 150 meters of the U.S. shoreline. This is significant because approximately 350,000 structures are located with 150 meters of the shoreline in the lower 48 states, not including densely populated coastal cities such as New York and Miami. Along the East Coast, most beaches are eroding at 1 to 1.5 meters per year. However, beach erosion is especially problematic along so-called beach erosion anomaly areas (EAAs) where erosion rates can be as much as five times the rate along adjacent beaches. Identifying and understanding these places is important because property values along U.S. East Coast barrier islands are estimated to be in the trillions of dollars, and the resultant beach erosion may also destroy irreplaceable habitat. There are a number of factors⎯natural and anthropogenic⎯that cause beaches to erode at anomalous rates. This paper will focus on the barrier island system of the U.S. East Coast, classify beach EAAs, and examine beach erosion down drift from stabilized tidal inlets because they are perhaps the most spatially extensive and destructive EAAs. -
The Relationship Between Wave Action and Beach Profile Characteristics
CHAPTER 14 THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN WAVE ACTION AND BEACH PROFILE CHARACTERISTICS P. H. Kemp Department of GivH Engineering. University College London, England. ABSTRACT. The rational design of coast protection works requires a knowledge of the behaviour of the beach under natural conditions. The understanding of the relationship between the waves acting on the beach and the characteristics of the beach profile produced, is thus a necessary preliminary to the analysis of the causes of beach erosion and the evaluation of the effect of projected remedial measures. The present paper describes the results of a series of prelimin- ary hydraulic model experiments carried out by the author prior to a model study of the behaviour of groynes in stabilising beaches. Most of the beach materials used represented coarse sand or shingle in nature. The results demonstrate the fundamental importance of the "phase- difference" in terms of wave period between the break-point and the limit of uprush, in relation to flow conditions, cusp formation, and the change from "step" to "bar" type profiles. Within the limits of the experiments an expression connecting the breaker height, beach profile length, and grain diameter is developed, and its implications examined in relation to beach slope, and to the previous "wave steepness" criterion for the change from step to bar type profiles. Observations are included on the rate of recession of a shore- line due to the onset of more severe wave conditions. INTRODUCTION. BEACH CHANGES. Changes in the coastline may be classified as:- (1) Progressive changes resulting in prograding or recession of the shoreline over a long period of time. -
1 the Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration
1 The Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration 2 of Soft Cliff Coastlines 3 4 Sally Brown1*, Max Barton1, Robert J Nicholls1 5 6 1. Faculty of Engineering and the Environment, University of Southampton, 7 University Road, Highfield, Southampton, UK. S017 1BJ. 8 9 * Sally Brown ([email protected], Telephone: +44(0)2380 594796). 10 11 Abstract: Building defences, such as groynes, on eroding soft cliff coastlines alters the 12 sediment budget, changing the shoreline configuration adjacent to defences. On the 13 down-drift side, the coastline is set-back. This is often believed to be caused by increased 14 erosion via the ‘terminal groyne effect’, resulting in rapid land loss. This paper examines 15 whether the terminal groyne effect always occurs down-drift post defence construction 16 (i.e. whether or not the retreat rate increases down-drift) through case study analysis. 17 18 Nine cases were analysed at Holderness and Christchurch Bay, England. Seven out of 19 nine sites experienced an increase in down-drift retreat rates. For the two remaining sites, 20 retreat rates remained constant after construction, probably as a sediment deficit already 21 existed prior to construction or as sediment movement was restricted further down-drift. 22 For these two sites, a set-back still evolved, leading to the erroneous perception that a 23 terminal groyne effect had developed. Additionally, seven of the nine sites developed a 24 set back up-drift of the initial groyne, leading to the defended sections of coast acting as 1 25 a hard headland, inhabiting long-shore drift. -
Guidance for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping
Guidance for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping Coastal Notations, Acronyms, and Glossary of Terms May 2016 Requirements for the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) Risk Mapping, Assessment, and Planning (Risk MAP) Program are specified separately by statute, regulation, or FEMA policy (primarily the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping). This document provides guidance to support the requirements and recommends approaches for effective and efficient implementation. Alternate approaches that comply with all requirements are acceptable. For more information, please visit the FEMA Guidelines and Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping webpage (www.fema.gov/guidelines-and-standards-flood-risk-analysis-and- mapping). Copies of the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping policy, related guidance, technical references, and other information about the guidelines and standards development process are all available here. You can also search directly by document title at www.fema.gov/library. Coastal Notation, Acronyms, and Glossary of Terms May 2016 Guidance Document 66 Page i Document History Affected Section or Date Description Subsection Initial version of new transformed guidance. The content was derived from the Guidelines and Specifications for Flood Hazard Mapping Partners, Procedure Memoranda, First Publication May 2016 and/or Operating Guidance documents. It has been reorganized and is being published separately from the standards. Coastal Notation, Acronyms, and Glossary of Terms May 2016 Guidance Document 66 -
Coastal Processes on Long Island
Shoreline Management on Long Island Coastal Processes on Long Island Coastal Processes Management for ADAPT TO CHANGE Resilient Shorelines MAINTAIN FUNCTION The most appropriate shoreline management RESILIENT option for your shoreline is determined by a SHORELINES WITHSTAND STRESSES number of factors, such as necessity, upland land use, shoreline site conditions, adjacent conditions, ability to be permitted, and others. RECOVER EASILY Costs can be a major consideration for property owners as well. While the cost of some options Artwork by Loriann Cody is mostly for the initial construction, others will require short- or long-term maintenance costs; Proposed construction within the coastal areas therefore, it is important to consider annual and of Long Island requires the property owner to long-term costs when choosing a shoreline apply for permits from local, state and federal management method. agencies. This process may take some time In addition to any associated financial costs, and it is recommended that the applicant there are also considerations of the impacts on contacts the necessary agencies as early as the natural environment and coastal processes. possible. Property owners can also request Some options maintain and/or improve natural pre-application meetings with regulators to coastal processes and features, while others discuss the proposed project. Depending on may negatively impact the natural environment. the complexity of the site or project, property Resilient shorelines tend to work with nature owners can contact a local expert or consultant rather than against it, and are more adaptable that can assist them with understanding and over time to changing conditions. Options that choosing the best option to help stabilize their provide benefits to habitat or coastal processes shorelines and reduce upland risk. -
Pocket Beach Hydrodynamics: the Example of Four Macrotidal Beaches, Brittany, France
Marine Geology 266 (2009) 1–17 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Marine Geology journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/margeo Pocket beach hydrodynamics: The example of four macrotidal beaches, Brittany, France A. Dehouck a,⁎, H. Dupuis b, N. Sénéchal b a Géomer, UMR 6554 LETG CNRS, Université de Bretagne Occidentale, Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer, Technopôle Brest Iroise, 29280 Plouzané, France b UMR 5805 EPOC CNRS, Université de Bordeaux, avenue des facultés, 33405 Talence cedex, France article info abstract Article history: During several field experiments, measurements of waves and currents as well as topographic surveys were Received 24 February 2009 conducted on four morphologically-contrasted macrotidal beaches along the rocky Iroise coastline in Brittany Received in revised form 6 July 2009 (France). These datasets provide new insight on the hydrodynamics of pocket beaches, which are rather poorly Accepted 10 July 2009 documented compared to wide and open beaches. The results notably highlight a cross-shore gradient in the Available online 18 July 2009 magnitude of tidal currents which are relatively strong offshore of the beaches but are insignificant inshore. Communicated by J.T. Wells Despite the macrotidal setting, the hydrodynamics of these beaches are thus totally wave-driven in the intertidal zone. The crucial role of wind forcing is emphasized for both moderately and highly protected beaches, as this Keywords: mechanism drives mean currents two to three times stronger than those due to more energetic swells when beach morphodynamics winds blow nearly parallel to the shoreline. Moreover, the mean alongshore current appears to be essentially embayed beach wind-driven, wind waves being superimposed on shore-normal oceanic swells during storms, and variations in beach cusps their magnitude being coherent with those of the wind direction.