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Vol. XXI No. 16 MUSINGS December 1-15, 2011 A Marina take-over Why is Corporation

“We can have smooth traffic flow doing this? only when this technology is upgraded to a fully manual system!” A switch in time (By The Editor) Chennai Traffic, you’ve really new Council has taken office at the Chennai done it this time. ACorporation and among the first steps it has You’ve managed to defeat tech- taken is a decision to take over from the PWD the nology. maintenance of Marina Beach. This is at a time Especially signal lights. when several macro issues such as garbage disposal, The Governor’s Bungalow as it was (above) when INTACH Pondicherry began working on Apparently, these ‘intelligent public health and hygiene, the condition of the wa- it three years ago, and as it is today when its restoration nears completion. Also see pages 4 and signals’, installed because 5. (Photographs courtesy: INTACH Pondicherry.) they’re able to ‘sense’ traffic terways, civic administration, and drainage are all density and act accordingly, are challenging the civic body, with Chennai’s ratings completely traumatised. Red fast slipping on all these counts. To what purpose has paled to a particularly sad then this decision to take over the Marina which, shade of violet; yellow’s gone a when compared to the rest of the city, is definitely very pasty pastel, while poor better maintained, though that is not saying much? green looks positively bilious. The decision could not have been more ill-timed “They keep coming at us,” they as the Corporation now needs to focus on its biggest gibber, shivering, “And they challenge – how to come to grips with its new NEVER LISTEN...” the shak- ing increases. jurisdiction with an area that is now three times Authority, taking charge, has larger than what it was handling earlier and none decided: No more ‘automatic too well at that. The past track record shows that mode’ at traffic signals. the authority of the civic body was steadily whittled They’re going manual. Appar- down only because it could not perform its duties ently, technology works only effectively. Thus, the Water Supply and Sewerage with sensible, calm traffic, with Board was formed, several arterial roads were regular peak hours. handed over to the Highways With nonstop ‘peak days’ – not so Department, and garbage much. Poor traffic cops. disposal was rather half- Already battling with heat, pollu- heartedly privatised. Several With first success, will tion, and daft road users, important projects were handed they’re now back to flicking over to specially constituted switches, deciding which lot agencies. And when the private deserves clearance when, while waste disposal agency failed in HCC begin to stir? other lanes express displeasure carrying out its tasks effectively, with horns... the resulting the Corporation stepped in he Heritage Conservation advice. This is definitely a posi- ought not to be hidden behind cacophony reducing even the rather belatedly and it did not TCommittee (HCC), ap- tive development, but the gen- hoardings. It, therefore, largely toughest cop to tears, and go- improve matters. Contrast this ing all foetal position right pointed by the Government of eral working of the Committee listed heritage structures on ar- there on the road. with the functioning of the Tamil Nadu following a specific leaves much to be desired. A terial roads and did not look at Authorities, not ruling out tech- Highways Department, which is directive of the High Court of year of functioning may be the buildings that are on side nology, suggest upgrades... a definitely better and which has Madras, completed one year in right time to critically evaluate streets. But it was still a list, and centralised eagle-eyed Big ensured that the quality of July 2011. The occasion war- what it has done. when the High Court ordered Brother ... road-laying has been such that ranted a celebration – and it that a Heritage Conservation G by A Special Now, technology can handle principal arterial stretches are was not long in coming when Committee ought to be formed, predictables, the one thing at least navigable during the the Committee was in a posi- Correspondent it also added that these listed Chennai traffic isn’t. monsoons. And it cannot be tion to report its first successful When the High Court buildings had to come under So maybe signals need to be im- denied that the PWD has done representation. This was to the the Committee’s purview. bued with qualities like impa- passed its judgement, it had on tience, intolerance, lane cut- a decent job with the Marina, Chennai Metro Rail Limited re- hand a list of a little over 400 The Committee when ting, discourtesy... then they’ll which is arguably the showpiece garding the alignment of railway heritage buildings. This was a formed largely comprised bu- be in tune with road-user of this city. lines and stations that are list prepared for an entirely dif- reaucrats who toed the official psyche. So what does the Corpora- planned to be in close proxim- ferent matter, a case involving line. It took its own time to send Brainy gizmo tecchies, are you lis- tion want to do with the ity to heritage buildings in the outdoor hoardings and was put out letters to the owners of the tening? Marina? It wants to get rid of city. The CMRL has stated it together mainly for the purpose listed properties. It is reliably Ranjitha Ashok (Continued on page 2 ) would go along with the HCC’s of enumerating structures that (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS December 1-15, 2011 Why this takeover Optional extras, Chennai style owadays, if someone lights, which, if of sufficiently adopted by those who are en- of Marina? N claims that going for high wattage, can reflect off titled to add a ‘G’ to their (Continued from page 1) Rs. 80 lakh and launched their long drives is a favourite pas- the rear view mirror of the car number plates, thereby mak- use at a high-profile event with time, The Man from Madras in front, temporarily blinding ing them immune to all traffic Musings takes it with a pinch the man at the wheel and, rules. The latest indication of the stalls put up by vendors on the Mayor driving the vehicle. of salt. After all, given the thereby, making him slow officialdom on the move is a the beach. How does it propose What happened to these ma- traffic conditions in our be- down. The car behind then circular brass plate just above to do it? By constructing perma- chines and, if they are being loved city, all car journeys noses ahead, always provided the number plate on the front nent shops and leasing them used, why is the sand still full of are long, far too long, and that every side-view mirror is and just below one of the tail- out to authorised vendors. How litter? much longer than they ought folded. lights at the rear. will this improve the situation A supplementary decision to be. Under the circum- c. SEAT BELTS – These Ever since the High Court beyond bringing in some rent taken at the first meeting of the stances, and given the ever- accessories are like helmets for played spoilsport by refusing revenue to the Corporation? Council was that the Marina, increasing price of petrol, two-wheelers. There is a law to allow every Thiru, Doctor from Anna Memorial to Fore- they can only be considered (like for pretty much every- and Manbumigu (the three What we will be left with is a painful necessities, rather thing else in our country) that most common titles and, series of unsightly shops, which shore Estate, would be ‘reno- akin to a visit to the dentist. stipulates that wearing of seat therefore, being used in place will become eyesores owing to vated’. What then of the re- But MMM does have to belts is compulsory. But this is of Tom, Dick and Harry) to poor maintenance. And given cently concluded beautification drive around and whilst at it observed more in the breach. sport a flashing red light on the lack of civic sense in the av- exercise initiated by the previ- he looks for what could even- To overcome this, several cars their car, officialdom has been erage Chennaiite, the area ous regime at a cost of Rs. 25 tually make it to this column, now have sensor alarms that perplexed. Some have man- around these shops will become crore? Does the Marina need Chief permitting. And keep beeping in case the belt is aged to retain the lights, permanent litter dumps. A far any more of these exercises? But MMM notices that absolute not fastened. Those at the though they don’t switch them better idea would be to retain such sweeping acts are hardly necessities in vehicles abroad wheel are irritated by this on. Others have come up with are often given the go-by on noise, though for some reason a more ingenious arrangement the temporary shops (at least surprising whenever there is a regime change in our State. our roads. MMM is not they appear impervious to the by way of these shiny discs, on they are temporary) and im- blaming the car manu- hooting of horns. And, so, to which are featured promi- prove the cleaning of the sands. Perhaps what we need is a facturers for they have done overcome the alarm and also nently a suitable logo of offi- In this connection, it is worth- legislation to the effect that the their best. But what about the flashing warning on the cial appearance, a legend in while pointing out that the Cor- Marina will be left as it is – a our makkal, by which MMM dashboard, an ingenious ruse small letters as to the depart- poration last year bought sand vast open stretch and a vital means the sons of the soil has been devised. The belts are ment, institution or agency it cleaning equipment worth lung of the city. (SOS)? The SOS considers represents and, finally, in still certain aspects of the car to smaller type, the designation be unworthy of use and not of the worthy who is travelling befitting his/her image. Some SHORT ’N’ in it. And you could have THE HCC TASTES of these are listed below: SNAPPY knocked MMM down with a a. SIDE-VIEW MIRROR – (fairly hefty) feather when he The average car-driver found that some of these SUCCESS thinks that these have been travelling panjandrums were (Continued from page 1) the owner could not demolish provided for combing of hair kept permanently fastened. Branch Managers of nation- learnt that several owners of or alter the structure, the letter and also for checking that But they don’t go around the alised banks or the heads of heritage properties never re- did not have anything construc- the moustache (always a passenger. They are stret- Government undertakings. ceived the letter. The Commit- tive to say about what could be South Indian macho symbol ched on the backrest of the Talking about the last tee has visited just a few of the done with the buildings. This among males) is trimmed seat and fastened into the named, MMM often wonders heritage sites that were listed. tied the hands of the owners just right. Thus, when a car clasp. As a consequence, the as to why they are called Not even those sites where res- is parked, MMM notices that warnings and flashings are undertakings. Is it because the and lack of maintenance efforts the side mirrors are stretched Government performs the role toration or major repair work is silenced. The car is fooled. has ensured that at least two wide so that the Ben Hur in- MMM has also noticed some of an undertaker? And is that going on have been visited. It is, heritage structures – the GPO side can admire himself peri- people who don’t even go to why these undertakings are therefore, not in touch with on Rajaji Salai and the odically and give his hair the this extent. They simply jam invariably ‘sick’ and waiting what is happening in most cases Madrasa-E-Azam on Mount right wave or brush that (in a piece of wood into the clasp for the inevitable? of threats to heritage buildings. Road – have partially collapsed. his view) causes many a which creates the same These brass discs have Taking advantage of the de- To what purpose is any action heart to flutter as he rests. effect apparently, or so he done what the flashing red lay in communication, some now on the matter when the But the moment he starts the has been informed. And lights were doing. They grant owners have gone ahead and damage has been done? Added car, he makes sure that the these are the very same absolute immunity from traf- demolished their buildings. The to this is the sheer apathy of side mirrors are hauled in people who religiously fasten fic laws and also ensure that Government was the biggest and flattened against the seat belts while on flights. policemen keep saluting as other Government depart- sides. These in his view are MMM wonders as to how they pass. And just to make culprit, for, in its hurry to build ments. It is now understood nuisances when the vehicle such an act can save a life at sure, just in case the disc is the new (and now unwanted) that the Committee is sitting in is in motion and rob him of an altitude of several thou- missed, the letter G continues Assembly, it destroyed five judgement over whether the those few extra microns of sand feet above the sea when to remain emblazoned on the listed buildings, with no expla- historic Mint on the eponymous space through which he is it is considered useless on number plate. MMM also nations being asked. Others street needs to be demolished. able to manoeuvre ahead. the ground. notices that the size of the G were not so lucky. It is reliably The Government, it is believed, Several pedestrians too are of So much for the safety- varies with status. Those learnt that the Church of South is all for it. the same view evidently, for critical accessories. But if higher up have it big and as for India, which demolished the It is, thus, in the light of the MMM has noticed that when you ask MMM as to what is those in undertakings, they Bible Society Building on Me- a car halts for a traffic light considered most essential by are rather haplessly forced to rather lacklustre performance or is generally held up, those have it small and, beside it, in morial Hall Road, was asked to those who drive, then it that the successful representa- walking along gently fold the would be the music system. smaller type, the legend u/t. come up with plans to build a tion to Metro Rail appears a side mirror in, very often This is usually switched on Oh, the ignominy of it all. structure aligned to what was major breakthrough. The with the air of someone and kept at a high volume done away with. That some Committee has managed to get brushing flies off a sleeping right through the journey, no Safety first action has been taken is small the Metro Rail to prepare Venus. doubt to drown the abuse of satisfaction, for the old struc- revised drawings and plans for b. REARVIEW MIRRORS – everyone else on the road. he Man from Madras ture is no longer there. its stations at locations near the These can’t be folded in and, T Musings noticed the signboard seen below during A bigger success was in get- Law College, Higginbotham’s so, there they remain, New status symbol ting those in charge of St dangling rather uselessly a recent factory visit. No and a couple of other places. It ontinuing on the road doubt the owner ‘louse’ his Teresa’s Church to give up ideas above the driver. The driver is significant, however, that thinks that the stem of the Ctheme, The Man from workers. of demolition. No action was, none of these revised designs mirror has been provided for Madras Musings notes that a however, taken in the case of has been made public and we hanging stuffed toys, reli- new status symbol has been – MMM Anderson’s Church on NSC have only the Committee’s gious icons, CDs and just Bose Road, where extensive word for it. about anything else, very of- ‘renovation’ work of its interior Taken overall, the perfor- ten obscuring the rear view. was undertaken, without any mance of the Committee is be- As for the mirror, it is meant competent authority overseeing low par. But, as we still have a to check dental alignments, the progress. This is also happen- significant bit of heritage left in of course. Those who like to ing elsewhere in the city too. move ahead in a traffic jam the city, any improvement by put the rear view mirror of The one and only communi- the Committee in its function- the car ahead to good use. cation that the Committee ever ing will go a long way towards They keep switching on and sent out was vague in the saving what has survived thus switching off their head- extreme. Beyond stating that far. December 1-15, 2011 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 T’Nagar appeals Another side Worshipful Mayor, the civic body spends enormous amount on a project which serves no purpose! n the 1930s there were few e, as the residents of T’Nagar, would like you to bestow Metrowater sewerage lines laid decades ago have become Imagazines and fewer writers Wyour personal attention to this fast growing but deteriorating useless as they are not designed to take heavy loads. If bigger in Tamil. And those who wrote business hub. Once a pure residential locality, T’Nagar can now capacity pipes are not laid, overflow of sewage will be a permanent boast of many a textile/jewellery and other showrooms. It is threat. did so mainly on domestic situ- slowly turning into a commercial hub at the cost of its residents, ations, porno and unbelievable With regard to garbage removal, the less said the better. who form the major population. Since this hub is well connected Everywhere in T’Nagar, uncleared mounds of garbage are an eye- thrillers. It was at this stage that both by road and rail, T’Nagar is besieged daily by people from far Ananda Vikatan and Kalki pro- sore. The commercial complexes dump a lot of waste on the and near. Such is its floating population on any normal day that, streets/roads as they do not have any disposal system on their moted creative writing. Besides in T’Nagar, it is Diwali and Pongal every day. Therefore it is not own. Plastic bags form a major chunk of the waste. being a great writer ‘Kalki’ surprising that this hub has as many hawkers/encroachers too. Even during normal hours, an ambulance or fire tender would Krishnamoorthy was a success- All available places are either occupied or encroached upon by not be able to reach any of the streets/roads fast enough because ful businessman. He wrote end- the vendors/hawkers and there is hardly any place for walking. of heavy encroachment. lessly – stories, poems, political Though the Chennai Corporation often chants that footpaths are We suggest that every commercial complex and all shops of all essays and adaptations from only for the pedestrians, in T’Nagar, footpaths have been kinds in T’Nagar must compulsorily shut one day every week. completely hijacked by the vendors/hawkers. Western essays and other In- Those who do not fall in line should be taken to task. In doing Most of the side streets, abutting Usman Road, which are this, a much-needed breather will be provided to residents and dian languages. The result, both residential, have become parking lots for the shoppers’ vehicles. magazines grew sizeably with a different civic bodies to attend to their work without hassle. The This is due to the fact that the commercial complexes have not shops and commercial complexes should also be allowed to work plethora to follow suit. provided parking space within their premises to park the vehicles only between 9 a.m and 8 p.m. with any extension only during Close friends have vouch- of their clients. As the shoppers park on both sides of the streets festival days but that too after obtaining prior permission. Gar- safed that So. Vi., as Pudumai- close to the commercial complexes, the residents are put to great bage dumping by the commercial complexes must be seriously Pithan (MM, November 16th) hardship. Often, residents find it difficult to even come out of viewed and penalties imposed to curb this abominable practice. was also known, was a non-con- their houses and are not able to take their own vehicles out. In T’Nagar has reached a saturation point and any further formist, transforming into a certain streets, the auto-stands pose additional problems to the unchecked developmental activities will only do more harm than residents. good. Please save the residents who now face the prospect of rebel. He rebelled against his The [in]famous Ranganthan Street, which is where the largest father, his editor-bosses and having to quit T’Nagar due to various problems it faces on all crowds surge, is the worst in terms of encroachment, violations of fronts. Considering that the residents are the major stakeholders, contemporaries who had suc- building rules/fire safety norms, etc. Here, the commercial ceeded in life. This landed him they deserve a better deal, free from garbage, pollution, encroach- complexes/shops have usurped the public space. ment, hawkers/vendors and congestion. in penury and he died a sad Many roads/streets have not been relaid and are in a pitiable man. Though he attacked Kalki condition. In streets where the civic body has taken up the V.S. Jayaraman with his vitriolic criticisms, it construction of stormwater drains, the work has been progressing Joint Secretary was Kalki who came to the res- at a snail’s pace. Besides the slow pace, the very construction of T’Nagar Residents’ Welfare Association cue of his bereaved family and the stormwater drains leaves a lot to be desired. We wonder why [email protected] built for them a house from pub- lic donations. Cost-effectiveness no guarantee that at a future materials extracted from buildings. This will not only af- On the other hand, many of date the constructions will not natural resources. Such an fect the business of their own- refer to ‘The drama of seal- his admirers and followers kept come up again and bring the operation may in its totality be ers but also their cash flow as ing illegal constructions’ up the tempo of attacks, which I area back to what it is now. considered a squandering of well as that of their employees. (MM, November 16th). The pleased the arm-chair drones. It Demolishing the structures natural resources. Banks that have given loans to status of T’Nagar of the 1920s is a pity that some little maga- will affect the local environ- The environmentalists and both will be affected too. can be achieved only by declar- zines toe the line. ment through dust, debris and ecologists should estimate the It is not unknown for au- ing the area a ‘Pedestrian Zone’ At present when everyone is sound pollution. The debris also ecological and environmental thorities to change the rules. as is the case in some cities in busy minting money through has to be disposed of by trans- cost involved in the whole pro- Large chunks of agricultural other parts of the world. artifical intelligence, arguments porting it to a distant place cess of construction, demoli- land are converted to residen- that are pro-So. Vi. and anti- The authorities should not which will affect the ecology of tion, reconstruction/restoration tial areas by authorities, causing Kalki do not serve any purpose. have allowed the construction that place. In addition, con- etc., and must ask themselves a problem of food security. Min- whether the demolition is ing of sand is going on in river S Krishna of such buildings in the first sumption of fuel by the trans- place. But demolition of the porting vehicles will lead to worthwhile. If the authorities beds leading to depletion of 81/2, Fourth Main Road groundwater resources. Gandhi Nagar structures at this stage will re- generation of greenhouse gases. intend to enforce the rules, Adyar sult only in further environ- Repairs to the partly demol- then they may have to demol- The T’Nagar buildings have Chennai 600 020 mental pollution. And there is ished structures will also need ish almost 75 per cent of the come up due to officialdom’s in- efficiency or connivance with the real estate promoters who OUR ADDRESSES Tamil-Tambul ignore the rules. Stuck with the buildings, it might be advisable For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of receipts etc.: CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott .V.S. Krishna who wrote ‘India, largely a country of immi to regularise the contravention Road, Royapettah, Chennai 14. Kgrants’ in MM, October 16th, sends us a letter from a friend of of the town planning rules by his in Papua New Guinea. Sriram’s letter states, among other Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters to the editor can imposing a heavy fine on the be sent via email to [email protected]. Those who wish things: defaulters to meet the needs of to intimate change of address can also do so provided the I arrived in PNG in mid-May to act as a Consultant for the improved facilities in the area subscription number is quoted. For non-receipt of copies, change of Institute of Business Studies in Port Moresby. I later joined the and convert the area as a address, and all other circulation matters: Madras Musings, C/o Institute as a Manager – Systems. ‘Pedestrian Zone’ rather than Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 122, Greames Road, Chennai Recently, I was talking to my co-staff, Steven Korowa, who hails 600 006. causing further damage and from one of the villages (Kagul) in the Highlands. Our conversa- cost to the environment by On editorial matters: The Editor, Madras Musings, C/o Lokavani tion drifted towards language and I was surprised to find that we demolition of the built struc- Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. had a lot in common in this area. Does this mean that there is a tures. If amenities are lacking, No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will be link between our two civilisations? If anyone who can share more the shop-owners must be asked sent from these addresses every couple of days to the persons about this, I will truly appreciate the effort. concerned and you will get an answer from them to your queries to provide them. T’Nagar is reasonably quickly. Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ Dialect Tamil Steven’s native language considered a shopper’s paradise approach, we will be able to help you faster and disappoint you less. (Tambul) for the people of not only Tamil Anna Elder brother Brother Nadu but also of adjacent THE EDITOR Appa Father Father States and countries. Let’s ben- Thatha Grandfather Grandfather efit from that by retaining it as MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB or any old person it is by making it more user- Tha Give Give friendly for which shopkeepers To reach out to as many readers as possible who share our keen Veriva Vaa Come quickly Come quickly should pay by way of hefty fines. interest in Madras that is Chennai, and in response to requests from Atthai Aunt Aunt many well-wishers – especially from outside Chennai and abroad S.N. Mahalingam Patti Grandmother Grandmother who receive their postal copies very late – for an online edition. (Suptdg. Engineer, PWD, Retd, Madras Musings is now on the web at www.madras musings.com Kai Hands Hands Formerly Research Scholar, I was also intrigued to find that a lot of places and people are IIS, Bangalore) THE EDITOR named after characters in the Ramayana. For example, Sita, Rama, 64-A Kalamegam Street Extn. Bali, Laxman, Manus are some of the names of places as well as SBI Colony II Street people. Kamarajapuram, Chennai 600 073 4 MADRAS MUSINGS December 1-15, 2011 December 1-15, 2011 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 Heritage Where the Dutch & the Danes stayed destination – Pulicat An association Will it ever determined to revive Tranquebar happen? Fort Dansborg. n the last decade there has been vey of India (ASI). Both have money was instead used to con- Sri Masilamaninathar Temple, ne recent lazy Sunday afternoon, a couple of Iconsiderable interest in now deteriorated. struct a huge granite coastal sea badly eroded by the sea. friends and I took off on a drive to Pulicat Tranquebar in reviving Meanwhile, to further push wall with permission from the With fishing playing such an O Tranquebar Crafts Resource Centre, Tranquebar. (Pazhaverkadu in Tamil), to explore the sights of a memories of a 200-year-old Indo- for the restoration of Tran- Tamil Nadu Government. important role in the history and fishing hamlet that was once home to the Dutch East Danish connection. This interest quebar, the Danish Tranquebar Partly as a consequence of the culture of Tranquebar, the Asso- India Company. started when a few Danes who Association was founded in work of the Association, the ciation decided to establish a Heritage destinationwere involved in a school project 2002. At present it has more than Bestseller Foundation (the corpo- Tranquebar Maritime Museum. At the end of a 2-hour, and a fairly comfortable, in Tamil Nadu visited Tran- 300 members. The Association rate social responsibility wing of drive on NH-5, we reached Pulicat. We had estab- An exhibition about fishermen quebar and saw how badly pre- undertook the cleaning and a large Danish conglomerate) be- and their history was inaugurated lished contact with a local there to take us around and – Tranquebar served the old Danish fort, restoration of the cemetery in came interested in helping with in February 2010 by the leaders he was on hand to receive us. Dansborg, was and felt that both New Street (Riverbank Street). development work in Tran- of the fishing community and Our first stop was at an exquisite temple dating to (By A Special Correspondent) the fort and the rest of Tran- Before the end of this work, the quebar. The foundation estab- representatives from the Asso- the Vijayanagara period dedicated to Adinarayana The Dutch Cemetery at Pulicat. quebar deserved restoration. At tsunami of December 2004 hit lished a mason training ranquebar, the Tarangam- the Zion Church was built to ciation. The museum was to be Perumal. A locked wicket gate Legend has it that they first es- residents and officials of Pulicat. catch up with a bit of Muslim his- first they planned just to paint the Tranquebar. programme for women that badi of the singing waves, is serve the Fort. In 1645, the Dan- situated in Van Teylingen’s House welcomed us. Awed by the sight tablished contact with the local We could also see a couple of tory. Pulicat has a long associa- T main building where the Danish in King Street, the former resi- unrecognisable today. I last ish Government, which had of the main entrance to the Muslim traders and that it was English tombstones in a far cor- tion with the Muslim commu- Governor had his residence dur- dence of a Danish doctor, but be- visited it in 2006 in connection taken over the settlement and 15 ing the first centuries of Danish temple, we were disappointed they who helped the Dutch get a ner, obviously sited after 1825. nity, with Arabian traders set- cause Van Teylingen’s House is to with the tercentenary celebra- surrounding villages after the presence in India. They got per- that we would be denied the op- trading grant from Queen Coming out of the cemetery, tling there nearly 800 years ago. be totally restored, the museum tions of the arrival of Bartholo- Danish Asiatic Company had mission from the Government of portunity to witness what lay be- Obayama, the wife of King we made brief stops at a couple Two prominent mosques, both is in a rented space at present. maeus Ziegenbalg and the estab- been dissolved in 1732, sold the Tamil Nadu for this and, invest- The musuem has a department yond. We decided to ask around Venkata II, the Vijayanagara of old churches. The older of nearly 300 years old, are the lishment under leadership of the territory to the British East India ing their own money, made the for marine archaeology, the ob- to see if someone could guide us ruler. It was from Pulicat that the them, called the Our Lady of main places of worship. The building look presentable – only Danish Halle Mission, the first Company for Rs. 12.5 lakh and it ject of which is to explore the sea to the person who would have Dutch successfully carried out Glory Church (said to date to the smaller of the two mosques, the to find it deteriorate in the years Protestant mission, not church, remained British till Indepen- bed along the coast of the keys to the temple and so, off much of their trading operations Portuguese period), had been de- Chinna Pallivasal, has an inter- that followed. The Government The Danish Cemetery Opening Tranquebar Maritime to put down roots in Asia. Not dence when it became part of Tranquebar where sailing ships went one of my friends and the for the next 200 years, before sur- molished and was being recon- esting feature, a sundial that was of Tamil Nadu then restored the Museum used to anchor in the Danish only was it then recovering after Madras/Tamil Nadu State. The fort, completing the work by After the tsunami the Asso- local contact. They returned 10 rendering the settlement to the structed. The other church, a installed in 1914 to show the would help in the restoration of period from 1620 to 1845. “We influence left by all these rulers 2002 and developing with the ciation collected money in Den- minutes later with the good tid- British East India Company in small, beautiful one called the St. time based on which the people Tamil buildings and, it hoped, the have knowledge of a number of has long been reflected in the help of the Danes a museum in it. mark to help the hard-hit ings that the priest was on his 1825. Anthony’s Church, was closed would assemble for prayer. A preservation of Tamil cultural shipwrecks in the Tranquebar town, but the interest in doing During this restoration period, fishermen’s community to get way and, sure enough, he ap- All that remains today signi- and we could only get a glimpse Madrasa also functions in the vi- new boats. But at the request of heritage. Bestseller also started area,” the Association says. something about this ‘treasure’ the old Danish Land Gate was re- peared not long after. The priest fying that it was once a Dutch of it from the outside. We then cinity, where the children re- the fishermen’s leaders, the some programmes to strengthen It is also planned to have a his- began only in the new Millen- stored by the Archaeological Sur- unlocked the main entrance and enclave is the cemetery. Fort drove over the bridge across the ceive Islamic instructions. The traditional craft skills, established torical type of boat, the Selling, on nium when a few Danes working a nursery for plants suitable for a huge temple greeted us. Geldria, the fort built by the lake connecting one side of this Arwi language, a blend of Tamil exhibition in the museum. This on a schools’ project in the coastal protection, and developed boat, locally known as a Masula, Dutch around 1615 as a means fishing hamlet to the other. This and Arabic, is another interest- Though a magnificent Arcots visited Tranquebar and a public park by the shore. The was used to bring goods to and of protection, had been demol- bridge, which has been recently ing feature of the place. Dating Group of heritage hotels has re- Elsewhere there is much positive temple, it was in complete ruins. caught up with its history. Initial Foundation also funded a bank from the big sailing ships that had ished, first by Hyder Ali and later opened, has improved connec- to the time the Arabs first settled stored the Collector’s Bungalow work. Huge roots had literally torn it attempts by this group to spruce for micro credit loans to help to anchor out at sea. It was by the British when they took tivity with the mainland for the in Pulicat, this language today on the beach as an upmarket Reconstruction of the Tamil apart at various places. After re- The town gate. up a couple of the historic build- people establish their own busi- handled by 8 or 10 rowers. It was control of Pulicat. many villages on the other side has very few takers amongst the property. It has restored two old Nadu Tourism-owned Gover- nesses. also used for fishing. What makes turning from the visit, a little re- the 2004 tsunami which had ings with coats of paint led to the Maintained by the ASI, the of the lake. It was twilight and Muslims of Pulicat, with only a Tamil houses, the Gate House nor’s Bungalow is nearing After restoration of the Dan- the Masula so special is that its search on the internet revealed swallowed much of its coast and founding, on their return to Den- cemetery was open, but there the lake presented a pretty sight handful of people amongst the and the Naik Bungalow, as mid- completion (it will probably be ish cemetery, the Association got planks are sewn together. In this that the entire construction was taken a heavy toll of life and mark, of the Danish Tranquebar was not a soul in sight. Once we in the fading light. local population having a knowl- level properties, and runs Tamil ready for the Tamil New Year) the Danish National Museum in- way the boat gets a high elasticity of laterite stone, a material seen property, but several non-gov- Association. It now has a mem- entered, it was so quiet that it Our last stop for the evening edge of it. Essentially Tamil writ- Nadu Tourism’s Hotel ‘Tamil and is to house a Tranquebar terested in the Danish Governor’s that makes it extremely suitable used in Kerala palaces and com- ernmental organisations had be- bership of over 300 and has been Bungalow, owned by the Tamil was hard to believe that we were before we drove back was to ten in Arabic, the script has cer- Nadu’ as something much better Cultural Centre in which the to pass through the strong surf of monly seen in Malabar and the gun to team together to resurrect able to get the Bestseller Foun- Nadu Toursim Department. The the Coromandel Coast. It is just a minute away from the main tain special symbols as Tamil has than the usual such hostelries. National Museum, the Bestseller Konkan coast, but not seen in Tranquebar as a Heritage Town, dation (the CSR wing of a major Department agreed to the Danish planned, as a part of the new market of Pazhaverkadu! Two more consonants and vowels The Fort, on which some res- Foundation, Tamil Nadu Tour- Tamil Nadu. So it was the type a status it got like Chettinad/ Danish conglomerate), the Na- National Museum funding the exhibition, to assemble the boat beautifully sculpted skeletons than Arabic. Arwi was used dur- toration work was done in 2002, ism and the Chennai and of construction that made this Kanadukathan got only on the tional Museum of Denmark and restoration of the building team- in the presence of visitors, mak- greeted us at the entrance. Inside ing the freedom struggle as a and the Museum set up in it need Pondicherry INTACH Chapters ing with INTACH’s then Tamil temple unique. insistence of INTACH Tamil some NGOs to work with the ing the museum a living museum. the cemetery were well main- means of secret communication, a considerable amount of work have all promised to play leading Nadu and Pondicherry chapters. The area leading to the sanc- Nadu (as INTACH Chennai was Tamil Nadu Tourism Depart- Meanwhile, a Restoration tained graves of various Dutch as the British translators could and more to be done by the roles. And to which, it is hoped, The restoration of the building tum sanctorum was surprisingly then) who had been asked to re- ment, the Government of India’s Development Plan has been understand only the Arabic Tamil Nadu Archaeology De- will be added inputs from the has now been done by INTACH neat and well maintained. The view the list prepared by the De- Tourism Department, the drawn up by INTACH script. partment and by those it might Lutheran Church on the ever-so- Pondicherry and will be com- Pondicherry, the Tamil Nadu and priest explained to us that it had partment of Town and Country Archaeological Department, pleted by March 2012, when it It was soon time for us to be willing to team with. So does important Zienbalg-Tamil Nadu India Tourism Departments, and been spruced up when some ba- Planning, Government of Tamil Tamil Nadu, the Archaeological will become an Indo-Danish Cul- make the two-hour drive back to the ‘Land Gate’, the gateway to connection. The Bestseller the local Panchayat. Under the sic work had been undertaken in Nadu. Survey of India, the HR & CE tural Centre managed by an Indo- the city. We were left ruing the what was a walled town. It was Foundation has restored five plan, beautifying the square in 2009 and 2010. He also men- Historically the Poompuhar Department, Tamil Nadu, the Danish Committee and main- fact that we had mistimed our first reconstructed in 1792. After Tamil houses on Goldsmith front of the fort has begun and it tioned that there was talk of HR (Kaveripoompattinam)-Taran- Lutheran & CSI Churches, the tained for an initial period by the will be possible to walk around trip, as the three hours we had in Independence, it has been little Street. One is now a guest house, & CE aid forthcoming but that gambadi-Nagapattinam coast Pondicherry and Chennai Bestseller Foundation. the square on a granite walkway, Pulicat offered only a glimpse of looked after by the Archaeologi- two of them house INTACH The Danish Tranquebar nothing had come out of it so far. has been a signally important chapters of INTACH, Upasana, to sit for a while on the benches the local culture and nothing cal Survey of India after every Tranquebar’s office and an exhi- Association has for some time We could gather from him that a one, for it is from here that the a design centre in Auroville, the under shade trees, and see the en- more. We had also missed out on renovation by it. And the CSI’s bition on Tranquebar’s history, now been drawing up plans to feud between Pazhaverkadu and Chola and, later, Pandya fleets Crafts Council of India, St. vironment lit up by traditional visiting the Pulicat Lake Bird Zion Church needs restoration. and the other two are home to restore the former Danish Com- Danish lamps at night. another village, the name of sailed to South and Southeast Joseph’s Development Trust, Sanctuary. the Tranquebar Craft Resource mander ’s Building next to the which we couldn’t catch, had led Asia between the 10th and the Tranquebar, and the Neemrana Governor’s Bungalow. It has pro- Tranquebar has been desig- With so much of rich history Centre where local craft is being to this temple being neglected. 14th Centuries. Muslim and Group to work together and cured the necessary funding but nated by the Government of in Pulicat, not to mention the revived with the help of Upasana Tamil Nadu as a Heritage Town. We could not even complete the Nayak influence left its mark on breathe new life into the dying has to reach agreement with the placid waters of the lake and the and the Crafts Council working Such a town will need Govern- circumambulation as the path the small port town between the town. What I saw on my recent local Lutheran Church authori- beach beyond, it is a place that with the St. Joseph Development ment to provide it better water was full of thorns. 14th and 17th Centuries. And visit was a work in progress. But ties who own the building. The offers an opportunity to be devel- Trust self-help groups. Association has also renovated supply, much improved roads, a then, in 1620, it was granted by there has been sufficient progress After leaving the temple, our oped as an exciting tourist desti- The Danish cemetery has the roof of Ziegenbalg’s Prayer more reliable system of electric- King Raghunatha Naik of to make this a heritage destina- ity supply, and an effective sew- next stop was the Dutch cem- nation. Though tourists do visit been restored and so have been House in Admiral Street. And Thanjavur to the Danes to estab- tion worth visiting – for a week- age system. This the Panchayat etery. Pulicat was the principal the place for joy rides on the lake several old buildings in the has offered to help with the reno- lish a trading settlement. end and, perhaps, more particu- need to press for. trading post of the Dutch East and enjoy the bird sanctuary, its Ziegenbalg complex, including vation of the early 14th Century Dansborg (the Danish fort) was larly with good accommodation India Company, whose factory The Adinarayana Perumal temple of the Vijayanagara period and the roots of potential needs to be harnessed a tree tearing its walls open. completed in 1624 and in 1701 now available. The Neemrana Masilamaninathar temple. (Continued on page 8) was established there in 1610. much more. 6 MADRAS MUSINGS December 1-15, 2011 A pioneer in hoteliering in Madras (Current Affairs questions are from the period November 1st to 15th. Questions 11 to 20 pertain to Chennai and Tamil – D’Angelis Nadu.) 1. Who was recently ranked the and adjoining this are several which have been fitted up by J.W. richest Indian by Forbes, with a private dining-rooms and a Roberts, of Madras, in a spacious net worth of $22.6 billion? banqueting hall, which will seat hall measuring 80 feet in length and 2. Name the two men of science sixty persons. The drawing- 30 feet in width, and there are honoured by having Elements 111 room is designed after a Swiss comfortable reading and writing- and 112 named after them? chalet, and decorators and fur- rooms for ladies and gentlemen. No 3. Name the former Olympic and nishers have vied with each fewer than four verandahs overlook undisputed World Heavyweight other in producing a cosy a charming Parisian garden, which boxing champion, nicknamed retreat amid most delightfully is not equaled in South India for its ‘Smokin’ Joe’, who passed away on artistic surroundings. wealth of shady trees and palms, November 7th. “Billiard players have a and here a visiting guest may be 4. According to the latest annual choice of three excellent tables, served with light refreshments index produced by the United while listening to the captivating Nations, which are the top three strains of a first-class band of countries to live in? music. 5. Which is the first Asian coun- “Messrs. D’Angelis & Son are try to join two space vehicles to- renowned for the excellence of gether in orbit for the first time? their English, French, and Italian 6. Who have been named the cuisine, and their lengthy experi- ‘World Athletes of the Year’ by ence in catering is a guarantee that the IAAF? the most fastidious customers 7. How did an image of the Rhine cannot find fault. An indispensable by German artist Andreas Gursky adjunct to the culinary department make news recently? of a large hotel in the East has been 8. Which Pacific island nation, provided in the shape of a refriger- with Yaren as its capital, saw three ating and ice-making plant Presidents in a week? An advertisement for D’Angelis hotels in the 1920s. Marianna of Sylk’s. 9. Name a much read and re- (Continued from spected cricket writer (and a col- last fortnight) umnist for The Hindu) who com- mitted suicide recently. 1913 description of Hotel 10. Name the two eminent A D’Angelis by Somerset sportspersons who were made Playne states: honorary Lt. Colonels in the Ter- “The hotel occupies a cent- ritorial Army on November 1st. ral position in the European * * * quarter of Mount Road, the 11. Which publication is consid- ered the first general interest leading thoroughfare in the city. Tamil magazine to attain a circu- It is near Government House and lation of one lakh? the Madras Club, and within a 12. Where in Chennai can you see few minutes’ drive from the a chronogram, engraved in stone, Central and Egmore railway considered unique for being stations. perhaps the only work by a Hindu “A very fine reception-room in a mosque in Tamil Nadu? is noticed on entering the build- 13. The HQ of which bank is now ing, whence visitors are trans- on Lloyd’s Road where Lalitha ferred to the upper floors by an Sadan, a huge property, stood ? electric lift, the first in Madras. 14. Which 225-year-old institu- Too great praise cannot be tion has also functioned in what is given for the excellence of the sanitary arrangements, as each now the Fort Museum, then at Hotel D’Angelis’ reception room. ‘Garden House’ on Popham’s sleeping apartment is provided Broadway, before it moved to its with a bath and toilet-room, in present location in 1884? which there is an unlimited 15. Where is the largest Corn- supply of hot (another first) and wallis Cupolas in Chennai? cold water. 16. Where in Nungambakkam is “All the ceilings are fitted the State Government planning with embossed steel, which is an Integrated Knowledge Park? not only a preventive against 17. Which specific art form undesirable insects, but is also a features in 135 Tamil Nadu practical safeguard against fire. temples? Wide passages and verandahs 18. Where is the Trevelyan Foun- ensure the circulation of an tain that was raised to mark the abundance of fresh air, but contribution of Governor Charles additional comfort is derived Trevelyan, towards providing from electric fans, which are to Madras with adequate drinking be found in every room (yet water? another first). Every inch of 19. Which industrial suburb of flooring is covered with Minton Chennai, once called Tiruvalidayil tiles, the utmost cleanliness (or Tiruvalidayam), has a 7th being thus ensured. Century Siva temple? “There is a very handsome 20. If it is Arthur Conan Doyle for dining-hall on the first floor, in Sherlock Holmes, then who is it which more than one hundred for Thuppariyum Sambu? guests can be accommodated (Answers on page 8) with meals at separate tables, Hotel D’Angelis’ roof garden. December 1-15, 2011 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

G Once, D’Angelis was the best hotel in town. Giacomo D’Angelis himself was known, apart from his confectionery and hospitality businesses, as being the first resident of the city to fly an airplane. Sud- denly, a couple of years earlier, out of the blue, a great-grandson of his, Jefferis Donald Evans D’Angelis, got in touch with me from, of all places, Santiago, Chile. We have kept in touch since and he has over time sent me a heap of pictures of both hotel and family. A few of them appear in these pages and others had appeared in the last issue. Accompanying them is a text put together from a paper that Dr. Antonella Viola of the Universidade Nova, Lisbon, Portugal, published – Migration across Three Continents: The D’Angelis Family – and which Jefferis D’Angelis sent me, as well as from information my correspondent contributed, and from other published sources. – THE EDITOR

a highly cosmopolitan man; he was considered by many to be liked to travel and he felt at ease French. Giacomo, in fact, was in an international environ- thought to be Corsican. This ment. Giacomo’s personality, was most probably due to the The Parisian Garden (above and below) with its bandstand on left (above). the colonial context and the fact that Giacomo arrived in Italians never considered In- mixed marriage greatly influ- India from France. But dia as a final destinations; the enced the development of his Giacomo did not seem to have country was simply regarded as children’s identity. Further, been particularly disturbed by a land which offered certain Giacomo D’Angelis’ contacts the fact that he was considered business opportunities. The ma- with France resulted in the chil- French rather than Italian. jority of Italians never settled in dren receiving a French and Connections with France had a India permanently, and used to English education, and being great influence on the family. go back home at the age of re- bereft of any direct contact with When asked about his grandfa- tirement, or even earlier, han- Italy and Italian culture. But ther Louis D’Angelis, Jefferis ding over their businesses to from a letter written to Louis D’ D’Angelis said that he remem- younger members of the family Angelis we learn that Mari- bered him as a “true French- or relatives-in-law. They always anna, and probably also Carlo man.” Louis D’Angelis migrated perceived their stay in India as and Louis himself, knew Italian. to Chile in 1923. temporary. An exception was However, there is no evidence * * * represented by those who mar- to confirm that they used to Giacomo D’Angelis sold Ho- ried non-Italian women in In- speak Italian in their everyday tel D’Angelis to another Italian life. confectioner in Madras, On the other hand, a picture (another first) and there are, in Bosotto, who renamed it Hotel that Giacomo D’Angelis sent to addition, cool chambers for Bosotto Brothers. In 1950, his son Louis, who had already preserving meat, butter, and other when Bosotto returned to Italy moved to America, suggests provisions. after World War II, he sold the that he preferred to talk English “A motor-bus is sent to meet the hotel and confectionery busi- rather than Italian to his principal trains and steamers, and ness to Musulipa Chaudhary, children. The photograph was this vehicle is available for parties who had been his dairy products taken in Algiers during a desiring to visit places of interest in supplier, for Rs. 15,000. the neighbourhood. vacation and contains a few “Not the least important recom- lines in English written by (Concluded) mendation of this hotel is a fact Giacomo D’Angelis himself. It that the proprietors take an active is very likely that communica- interest in securing all possible tion within the family was comforts and attention for their conducted almost exclusively in visitors, although an expert Euro- English, particularly as they pean manager has direct control spent much of their lives in an over the small army of servants.” View of the Parisian Garden from the second floor. English-speaking environment. Giacomo D’Angelis expanded to run the hotel in Madras and, dia. Generally speaking, Irish It must also be noted that these operations by signing a man- later, managed Sylk’s in Ooty. and French girls were preferred the Giacomo D’Angelis who Marianna was the only one who because of their Catholic back- lived in Madras till his death After D’Angelis became Bosotto’s continued her father’s business grounds. But even Italians who after Carlo and Giacomo married non-Italian women in D’Angelis’ deaths. Giacomo India used to take their ‘Indian’ D’Angelis died in Turin (Italy) families back with them to Italy CHENNAI HERITAGE in the early 1930s during one of when they retired. The links No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 his many ‘holidays’ from Ma- with Italy were always over- dras. Marianna left India after whelmingly strong. They were I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / selling her properties and proud of being the nationals of I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it Hotel D’Angelis’ Dining Room. settled in London in 1965 with a recently unified country, to hereafter. her third husband, F. Penn, build which they had contrib- agement contract to run Sylk’s Ho- G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 (Rupees One who was the proprietor of a uted. hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, MADRAS, as subscription to tel in Ooty. He eventually pur- brewery in Bangalore. chased and refurbished the hotel Giacomo D’Angelis and his Madras Musings for the year 2011-12. Dawson’s Hotel, which family in India did not fit well and handed over its management G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment and a opened in Ooty in 1841, was into this picture. During the to his daughter Marianna. better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an sold to C. Sylks in 1868 and be- years he and his family spent in Marianna married an Italian, came Sylk’s Hotel. Giacomo additional Rs...... Aldo Palazzo Palazzi, who had India, he did not maintain any (Rupees ...... ) Please keep / put me on your D’Angelis acquired Sylk’s Ho- close link with his family in Italy come to India to work in the hotel tel, it is believed, shortly after mailing list. business. He was 42 and she was 29. and this was rather atypical of the Great War (1914-18) and his Italian background. Name : ...... It has been stated that Palazzo was by 1925 renamed it the Savoy. The absence of direct links Address:...... the chef at Sylk’s. In spite of He first ran it as a summer hotel with Italy culminated in the Giacomo D’Angelis’ opposition, but, later, made it a year-round ...... D’Angelis family moving to dif- the couple married in November one. He transferred ownership ferent countries, one of them to Note: Overseas postage Rs. 550/year extra. Cheques for overseas postage alone 1920. Aldo Palazzo was Marianna’s of the Savoy to Marianna in as far away as Chile. Giacomo payable to M/s. Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd. All other cheques to ‘Chennai first husband. They lived in India 1925. D’Angelis was multilingual and Heritage’. and she actively helped her father * * * 8 MADRAS MUSINGS December 1-15, 2011 Heritage Destination – Tranquebar

December 6: Release of Christian Mark, an exhibition of paint- (Continued from page 5) Foundation’s help. The Sivan Themes in Indian Art by Prof. ings and photographs by Mel- the local Panchayat and the Dr. Anand Amaladass and Dr. issa Enderle. An American his home. A Ziegenbalg Mu- Temple is being restored by the Bestseller Foundation, the Pa- Gudrun Lowner. The book is a who has taught in Mali, Tuni- seum has been partly developed HR & CE Board and sugges- rade Ground, a ‘brown’, has pioneering work, showcasing sia, Serbia, and India, she por- here and a printing museum tions have been given to them been converted into a ‘green’ Christian themes in Indian art trays the culture and life of ev- awaits development in the pre- to restore the Masilamani with a granite walkway separat- from the beginnings of Chris- eryday people through photog- mises where Ziegenbalg’s print- Nathar Temple dating to 1306, ing it from the Governor’s Bun- tianity in India till today. Spe- raphy, watercolours, colour ing press, the first in Asia after a rare coastal temple that has to galow and its neighbours. The cial emphasis is given to artists pencil, and pastel (at Forum printing died out in Portuguese a great extent been swallowed ‘walkway’, with its new row of who as Hindus, Muslims and Art Gallery). territories, was located, a prom- by the sea. The 1350s old old Danish lamp posts could Parsees have chosen to paint From December 11: Between mosque, later renovated, has pass for a promenade. Similar Biblical themes. Philosopher Strangeness and Famililarity, an ise of the Madras Printers’ As- and theologian Anand exhibition of paintings, draw- sociation still to be fulfilled. The had a newer mosque built lighting will illuminate the Amaladass teaches at Satya ings and sketches by Ruth Commander’s House next to the neighbouring it and there has ‘green’ to be developed around Nilayam Jesuit Faculty of Phi- Bisping (at Indigo and Laber- Governor’s Bungalow, the col- been restoration of the latter. Dansborg, some of which will losophy in Chennai, now part num Galleries, 6 p.m.). onnaded Rehling’s House, Van Under a Destination Devel- reflect the positioning of the of the Loyola (Autonomous) December 17-26: Madhya Teylingen’s House and Zion opment Scheme drawn up by moat that once surrounded the College (at Goethe-Institut Pradesh Festival with folk per- Church (1701) are all to be re- INTACH Pondicherry and the fort. With the whole area to be Auditorium, 6.30 p.m.). formance, crafts and exhibi- stored by INTACH Pondi- Tamil Nadu and Government made ‘pedestrians only’ – a wel- December 9-11: DRAMA-Log tions (at DakshinaChitra). cherry with the Bestseller of India Tourism authorities, come thought – it tends to give (in cooperation with Mas- December 18: Eastern Flowers, in an impression of a contrived, querade) a first of its kind cooperation with MusicUniv, Theatre Festival promoting the ‘Eastern Flowers’, presented by deliberately created bit of heri- inherent potential of dramatic Jarry Singla, is an ensemble tage, rather than truly reflect December 31: Last date for sub- Nizhal Marghazhi tree walks the past. But then many a heri- arts for students in leading col- whose members all have a close mission of DVDs for Moksha These are family walks, and leges in Chennai. Conceived by cultural connection to the In- Moola, a video film competi- Nizhal would like every adult to tage destination in different Goethe Institut/Max Mueller dian subcontinent in their mu- tion in cooperation with LV bring at least one child below 15! parts of the world has followed Bhavan and curated by sic. Like Jarry, double-bass Prasad Film & TV Academy. Each walk will last about an hour, this route – and who are we to Masquerade, there will be six player Christian Ramond is Open to anyone living in Tamil and participants will be crib when so much has been short public performances over also of Indo-German origin and Nadu and under 23 years. introduced to the different trees, done to bring Tranquebar alive three evenings (at Goethe the trio is complete with the ‘Seeking a Space called Peace’ common in our city and their again. Institut Auditorium, 7.30 addition of Ramesh Shotham, is the overriding theme and the stories told. The Danish Tranquebar As- p.m.). a musician from Madras (at video should not exceed 60 Note: Guindy Children’s Park Till December 10: Exhibition of Sivagami Pethachi Audito- sociation has established a Dan- seconds in duration, excluding and Semmozhi Poonga charge an ish Maritime Museum, at photographs by Nicholas rium, 9.30 a.m.). the titles (For details: Max entrance fee, and participants Vreeland taken over the 26 December 27-31: Marghazhi Mueller Bhavan, Chennai). must buy their own tickets. The present in rented premises but years he has been a Buddhist Festival. Kurumba artists’ tribal walks are otherwise free. to be moved to Van Teylingen’s monk (at Gallery Sumukha). performance from the Nilgris * * * For further details and for regis- House on King’s Street after its Till December 10: Leaving a (at DakshinaChitra). DakshinaChitra Workshops tration, please contact 90030 restoration. The Association Children’s workshop 11372 or 98400 16872 between also contributes to Tamil, En- December 17: Pottery and Clay 10 am and 5 pm. glish and Danish road signage, a cleaner Tranquebar and pre- Answers to Quiz modelling. Semmozhi Poonga – RK Salai December 23-24: Residential December 17, Saturday 10.30 am vention of coastal erosion while 1. Mukesh Ambani; 2. Wilhelm Roentgen and Nicolaus Copernicus; Winter Camp. December 25, Sunday 10.30 am beautifying the road along the 3. Joe Frazier; 4. Norway, Australia and the Netherlands; 5. China; 6. Adult workshop January 7, Saturday 10.30 am coast. Usain Bolt of Jamaica and Sally Pearson of Australia; 7. At $4.3 million, it December 10 & 11: Card mod- Taken altogether, the efforts has become the most expensive photograph ever sold; 8. Nauru, 9. Peter Children’s Park – Guindy of all those working together to elling December 18, Sunday 10.30 am Roebuck; 10. Abhinav Bindra and M.S. Dhoni. December 21-January 31, restore Tranquebar has resulted * * * December 31, Saturday 10.30 am 2012: Exhibition of children’s January 8, Sunday 4 pm in what is without doubt the 11. Dinamani Kathir; 12. Wallajah Mosque; 13. Indian Bank; 14. literature by Arts management best re-creation of a heritage Madras GPO; 15. At the Collectorate (where once Bentinck Building students. (For details: Panagal Park – T’Nagar town in the State, perhaps even stood); 16. At the DPI campus; 17. Frescoes; 18. In the grounds of the 27472603/27472783) December 24, Saturday 4 pm in South India. Victoria Public Hall; 19. Padi; 20. Devan. * * * January 1, Sunday 10.30 am

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PublishedPublished by S. Muthiahby S. Muthiah for ‘Chennai for Heritage’,‘Chennai No.Heritage’, 5, Bhattad 260-A, Tower, TTK 30, WestcottRoad, Chennai Road, Royapettah, 600 018 andChennai printed 600 by014, T printedJ George by T atJ George Lokavani-Hallmark at Lokavani Southern Press Pvt.Printers Ltd., Pvt. 122, Ltd., Greams 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600 006. 006, Edited and edited by S.by MUTHIAH.S. Muthiah.