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Registered with the Reg. No. TN/CH(C)/374/09-11 Registrar of Newspapers Licence to post without prepayment for India under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. WPP 506/09-11 Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS CHENNAI INSIDE • Short ‘N’ Snappy • The twin castlets • Madras Week blogs • How old is Tamil Cinema? • A sailing centenary Vol. XXI No. 10 MUSINGS September 1-15, 2011 “With all the rains and the traffic and queues and all that, let’s just read the review of the play we are supposed to go to this evening in the paper tomorrow!” Recent random thoughts of some theatre-loving Signing for Chennai-ites Okay... the play begins at 7.30 Chepauk Palace Heritage Act pm, so get there by 7.15. ETD from home is therefore 6.30 A Heritage Act was the pm…no, make that 6-ish, be- 1801 though the ruling family joint request by the coordi- cause of that bane of earnest Is it on its was permitted to use the palace nators of the Madras Week audiences – free seating. till 1855 when, on the pretext on behalf of the people of Over the last three shows, Ms Me- of liquidating the debts of the Chennai on the day of the First and her passive-aggressive Nawabs, the palace was ac- Madras Week press confer- friends have been hogging the last legs? quired by the Government in a ence, August 19, 2011. best seats, plus ‘keeping place’ sham auction. Since then, it has If passed, the Act will for hordes of their buddies. (By A Special Correspondent) ensure that not just the heri- As for yesterday – empty seats ga- been used by Government de- tage of Madras is protected, lore... so, of course, Mr. Eight- t has been touted the world Chepauk Palace was built as partments, of which the best- but that of the whole of the Footer-with-the-Poosnikai- Iover as the first example of the city residence of the known are the Revenue and State as well. Head has to choose the one the Indo-Saracenic style of ar- Nawabs of Arcot. Probably de- Public Works Departments. No sooner the banner before us. The latter also has its own inde- with a request to pass the And – Heaven preserve us from chitecture, a style for which signed by Paul Benfield, a Com- Madras became famous. And pany engineer turned building pendent wing fronting Chepauk Heritage Act was unfurled, foot-tappers, cough-ers and more than 40 signatures fidget-ers. yet, in the absence of any form contractor, it was the first in- Palace, built by Robert Fellowes filled the campaign sheets on Time to leave. of legislation to protect build- stance anywhere in the world of Chisholm. Tickets? the spot. ings of its kind, historic the Indo-Saracenic style. It also, (Continued on page 5) Check. Chepauk Palace is rapidly going more famously, marked the be- God, the traffic … thankfully, no dignitary movement, no sud- to seed and, unless something ginning of the takeover of the den mass protests, no break- fairly urgent is done about it, Carnatic by the British and, downs… this historic precinct is unlikely when it was nearing comple- MOVE, can’t you see the lights to survive long. That at least tion, it was evident to most that Will Metro hide our have … what are you honking was the impression I was left the days of the Nawabs’ rule at? with during a recent visit to the were numbered. Sure enough, Inching, inching ... Yay! heritage buildings? Arrived. premises. the Carnatic was annexed in Hey – ever heard of a queue? (By A Staff Reporter) Now – choosing seats. Too much in front looks presumptuous; ork on the Metro Rail- be in direct contravention of too much to the back seems Wway is progressing with- the recommendations of the overly humble ... out pause and in its relentless Padmanabhan Committee on They’re starting. wake it appears that several hoardings which stated that What the ...?!! I swear I put the heritage buildings are likely to nothing ought to come up in damn thing on ‘silent’. be affected. Some will have to Everyone’s glaring. front of heritage structures. (Why is my left arm hurting?) bear the brunt of digging, drill- The Heritage Conservation (Later)… ing and construction activity in Committee constituted by the Leave minutes before the end. No their vicinity and, later, suffer Government following a judge- intense-discussion-obscure- the vibrations bound to be ment of the High Court of Ma- analysis-and-how-did-you-like- caused by the continuous dras is already looking into the the-play-ing. movement of rolling stock. (Much Later) ... matter. It is learnt that a sub- (Note to self: Stay home; watch Now, the latest is that many of committee constituted to look TV ... and sing: This particular the buildings are likely to be into the designs of the stations world was never meant for one completely obscured by the has found that some of the as worrywart as you ... starry, Tree growth has a field day at Chepauk Palace with its broken windows and construction of stations that vents and entrance porches to starry evenings…) what fills in for them when they have vanished. will mask their facades. What is Ranjitha Ashok (More pictures on page 5) worse, such a construction will (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS September 1-15, 2011 51 things MAD-rush for food! nother Mad-rush, oops the Chief, who is rather prone The long arm of the law, AMadras Week is draw- to look on such goings-on with MMM understands, is wary to do ing to a close. The celebra- a benevolent eye, was moved of any gatherings that exceed t. Mary’s Co-Cathedral on Armenian Street, which is today tions are now confined to the to reprimand one or two of the four in number. The process, Smore popular for the devotion to Saint Anthony by Catholics son et lumiere programmes more notorious ones. Each MMM is told, is not at all dif- and non-Catholics alike, and the Cathedral in San Thomé have that the Chief had evening this was repeated, with ficult and the staff is courte- conceptualised at the Free- the scene making MMM ous in the extreme. But those long been on my ‘must visit’ list and I strongly recommend them to masons’ Hall, but when the realise what it would have been who watch over law and or- visitors. Week (or is it Month) was in like in locations such as the der of our beloved city are Greater than the history, the heritage and the uniqueness of progress, you could scarcely Kanji Thotti in the great fam- unable to comprehend the places is the experience they offer. So, in connection with the make up your mind as to ine years of the 18th and 19th concept of a heritage walk. Madras Day celebrations (www.themadrasday.in), a group of us where to go and what to see. Centuries in Madras. Consequently, such events have launched the ‘51 THINGS TO DO IN CHENNAI’ blog. The Man from Madras But there is always a higher are classified under Fasts/Pro- We are hoping that this ‘51 Things To Do’ list will try and sug- Musings hurried along from force that watches over us and tests/Processions. And the gest places, people, things and events that are truly Madras/ sport to sport as he believes came a day when the venue law looks askance at events of Chennai and offer the ‘experience’. So, instead of suggesting a visit the expression is, though was an establishment that was that variety. to the church atop St. Thomas’ Mount, we would recommend what with his loyalties being facing labour troubles. It was MMM is fairly certain that to this publication, he con- enjoying your visit by taking the one hundred plus steps to the top, too late for a change of venue most of the rules and regula- fined his attendance largely and it was decided to go ahead. tions that govern public gath- the views you should not miss, and the other little places around to the talks and walks the church. And no food was served. Not erings were created in the era organised by it. The Chief, even a drop of water. The free- when Gandhiji made bold to To ensure that this ‘51 Things To Do’ listing has a local flavour, on the other hand, MMM loaders came, saw and could challenge an alien regime. it is best enriched by people like you who know the city well. Lots was glad to see, was all over scarcely believe their eyes. And poring over the letter of people, especially young people, highly recommend visiting the the place, now enthusing the Their jaws dropped, their eyes that gives permission to con- Broken Bridge behind the Theosophical Society, a bridge which cadres, here shaking a hand, almost popped out and they duct heritage walk, he finds it once linked Uroor kuppam in Besant Nagar with Srinivasapuram there cocking a quizzical eye looked at each other with a couched in the same language in Pattinapakkam. The bridge collapsed many years ago. They say and somewhere else being wild surmise. The talk went on that belonged to that era as the life and soul of the party. the view and the experience at sunrise or at sunset is amazing. A walk on the Marina, well-stocked with sundal, bajji and raw mango slices dipped in salt and red chilli powder, is a must-do.