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Home , Carciofi alla romana, Testaccio, Trastevere, Villa Giulia

© Moovellab ALL ROADS LEAD TO . You are on one of them. WELCOME to DIVORAROMA! “A Roma, non basta una vita.” Translation: A lifetime is not enough in Rome.

Its true. Rome has millennia of history literally accumulated in layers, much of which is visible to the naked eye. Romans live inside of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, combining the modern amenities with the historical traditions of centuries’ past. There is an incredible array of art and architecture and archaeology, as well as a very proud culture.

To experience Rome as the locals do, take note of the following:

Wake up, start the day with an caffe’ e cornetto ( and pastry), walk to the mercato (market) or a museum or a ruin, enjoy lunch on the go or in a casual trattoria in one of the breathtaking piazze, take a pisolino (a nap) in the afternoon, go on a typical passeggiata (afternoon walk) to a parlor, see another historical attraction and then prepare for a delicious evening dinner at home or at a wonderful local restaurant… Are you ready to do this all week long? ;)

There will be ample time for you to enjoy Rome on your own as well! For your convenience, here are a few of my favorite places not to be missed:

• , , and the • The Borghese Gallery (museum) and the Borghese Gardens all around there • , Vatican Museums, • Giulia (the Etruscan museum) and Musei Capitolini • Giardino degli Aranci and Terme Di Caracalla (Caracalla’s baths on the hill) • Gianicolo (one of the hills of Rome) and • Bocca Della Verita’ (the mouth of truth), Pantheon and Fountain • And so much more! These are simply the most prominent and popular sites.

DIVORAROMA.COM | [email protected] | PORTLAND OREGON BASED, ALL-INCLUSIVE CULINARY VOYAGE THOUGH ROME, “Mangiamo!” Let’s Eat!

You are embarking on a culinary experience through Rome. It’s only logical that we devote most of our time eating our way through the city! Rome is a proud city, with plenty of simple dishes with stunningly complex flavors. We will explore what is in season in this time of year as we explore the markets and taste everything from traditional Roman restaurants to on-the- go Roman street food lunches.

Here are some of my favorite eateries:

• Pasticceria Di Zio, neighborhood (typical Roman pastries) • Volpetti salumeria, Testaccio neighborhood (meats and cheeses sourced locally) • Nuovo Mercato Testaccio, Testaccio neighborhood (daily local food market with street food stands) • Flavio Veloavevodetto Osteria Romana, Testaccio neighborhood (typical Roman osteria) • Da Lucia, trattoria in Trastevere neighborhood (typical Roman trattoria) • Enoteca Palombi, Testaccio neighborhood (wine shop, wine tasting and small Roman bites) • Bernini, ristorante in (restaurant and pizzeria in one of Rome’s beautiful piazze) • Da Felice, ristorante in Testaccio Neighborhood (famous people eat at this delicious typical Roman restaurant) • Nonna Betta, Campo De Fiori neighborhood (typical Roman Jewish - Kosher - cuisine) • Glass, Two Michelin Star restaurant, Trastevere neighborhood (Roman dishes, elevated to Michelin level) • Giolitti Gelateria, Testaccio neighborhood (delicious traditional gelato) • Enoteca Corsi, Pantheon neighborhood (wine tasting and small bites) • Antica Hostaria Romana, Campo De Fiori neighborhood (typical Roman osteria) • Romolo a Trastevere, Trastevere neighborhood (a more elegant version of typical Roman dishes) • Gelateria Don Nino, neighborhood (delicious gelato in our neighborhood)

Thankfully May/June offer nice long days for plenty of time for fun!

~ Alice

DIVORAROMA.COM | [email protected] | PORTLAND OREGON BASED, ALL-INCLUSIVE CULINARY VOYAGE THOUGH ROME, ITALY “Mangiamo!” Let’s Eat!

Basics of :

SUPPLI’ Bite-sized snack is filled with mozzarella cheese surrounded by a mixture of , egg and tomato sauce, coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. The soft mozzarella becomes stringy between each bite resembling telephone lines, hence the name Suppli al telefono!

PIZZA BIANCA For those whose favorite part of the is the crust, pizza bianca is a gift from heaven. Served al taglio (by the slice), it is topped with olive oil and a pinch of salt. Unlike the round thin-crust served at restaurants, is thick and rectangular. Sometimes its even stuffed with prosciutto or mortadella for a delicious street food panino!

CODA ALLA VACCINARA For meat lovers only, the oxtail in this traditional stew is cooked for hours until it becomes tender. Before World War II, slaughterhouses would pay their employees with unwanted scraps of the oxen. Families had to get creative with their cooking, which resulted in some of the most savory dishes in Rome.

CACIO E PEPE A dish, this time with olive oil, pecorino cheese and freshly ground black pepper. When cooking , black pepper out of your normal shaker just won’t do. For the spicy, flavorful taste that the dish deserves, freshly ground peppercorns are a must!

CARCIOFI are so popular in Rome that there are not one, but two traditional methods of preparation. In the first, Carciofi alla Romana, the artichokes are slowly cooked in olive oil until they are soft (see them in the image on this page). In Carciofi alla Giudia, the Jewish method, they are deep fried twice until the leaves become brown and crispy. A side note: Italy is responsible for almost two-thirds of the world’s production!

DIVORAROMA.COM | [email protected] | PORTLAND OREGON BASED, ALL-INCLUSIVE CULINARY VOYAGE THOUGH ROME, ITALY Tips and notes about being in Rome:

It may seem strange to mention the following, but believe me, you’ll need to know it ahead of visiting Rome… Crossing the road … Follow these simple rules so you can visit BOTH sides of any major street ;)

1. Stand on the curb, looking in the direction of oncoming traffic. When there is a decent break (i.e. enough for whoever’s coming to brake), 2. Make sure to notice that they have seen you (eye contact is great), 3. Step out decisively and, maintaining a constant and regular pace, walk across. As if by magic the cars and scooters will weave around you.

DON’T stop midway, don’t go backwards and don’t run across screaming, that confuses everybody, and don’t wait in ever-growing frustration for everyone to stop, it’s never going to happen. Go with the flow, do as the Romans do!

DIVORAROMA.COM | [email protected] | PORTLAND OREGON BASED, ALL-INCLUSIVE CULINARY VOYAGE THOUGH ROME, ITALY Tips and notes about being in Rome:

Some of you have not been to Rome in very many years, while others have not been at all. As it says below, Rome is a great big metropolis, and as with any other European city, there can be issues in localized safety. The trick is to be aware of your surroundings and careful when walking around. Other than that, there is plenty of police and military around to guard the center of Rome and to monitor activities. Rome is a world patrimony after all, and very much loved.

See my friend Stephanie drinking delicious water from one of Rome’s fountains in this image? The military stands guard in the background. A classic example of a nighttime street scene. The next two pages are notes taken verbatim from various online resources I constantly monitor. Sources available upon request ;)

“Don’t be paranoid, but do be careful. Despite the horror stories you might hear of “gypsies” throwing their babies at tourists before relieving them of their wallets, the pickpocket situation in Rome is much improved although unfortunately not eradicated. However it is not any worse than any other major city. Always make sure you know where your wallet/phone/camera is, and keep your bag in front of you in busy places and on crowded public transport. Rome is one of the world’s safest capital cities, and the city centre is a safe place. There are no real “no go” areas, although some areas around the station can be a little unpleasant at night. In the the police you see all over the place are guarding government buildings, embassies, and the Prime Minister’s house. They are more an exercise in over-kill, than indicative of an imminent uprising.”

“You CAN drink the water (it is delicious!). Drinking fountains run constantly and abound throughout the city, which can save you a fair amount of cash, especially in the heat of summer. Romans tend to drink mineral water because it has digestive properties and they like the bubbles, and while restaurants don’t serve tap water, mineral water is usually cheap at about €2 per liter. However the tap water is good, cold, and FREE. Roman aqueducts have been bringing spring water from the hills around the city for over 2000 years, the city’s tap water mostly comes from the natural reservoirs of the Appenine mountain range and the nearby lakes.”

DIVORAROMA.COM | [email protected] | PORTLAND OREGON BASED, ALL-INCLUSIVE CULINARY VOYAGE THOUGH ROME, ITALY Tips and notes about being in Rome:

“Taxis are (by law at least) not allowed to pick you up by being hailed on the street. Instead there are taxi ranks dotted around town where they congregate. Most tassisti are agreeable, manage a bit of English, and are honest with the meter. However a proportion, and this rises in the drivers waiting at the airport, can be unpleasant and unscrupulous. Even if the meter is on, tricks include setting it to the after 10pm or “out of town” (extra-urbana) tariffs unjustifiably. Sadly there’s little you can do to tell if that’s the case. If it sounds absurd, protest, take down the license number, and/or ask for a receipt (ricevuta). There is no requirement to tip the taxi driver unless you wish to reward particularly good service, although it is usual to round up to nearest euro. Most restaurants and hotels will be happy to call a taxi for you.”

“Rome has an integrated public transport system, the tickets work on all metro, buses, and trams in the urban area. Tickets (biglietti) can be bought from tabacchi (look for the ‘T” signs outside), newsstands, and at metro stations. Regular tickets cost €1 and are valid for 75 minutes from the moment they are first stamped. Within those 75 minutes you are entitled to use any combination of buses, trams, and one Metro journey. You will need to stamp your ticket in the yellow machines when getting on the bus or tram, and/or put it through the turnstile when entering the Metro. A 1-day pass costs €4, and lasts from the moment you stamp it until midnight of the same day. A 3-day pass costs €11, and lasts from the moment you stamp it until midnight of the third day. A 7-day pass costs €16, and lasts from the moment you stamp it until midnight of the seventh day.”

“Coffee and cafes: The ubiquitous snack bars are where coffee is taken, usually standing up at the bar. If there are tables you are expected to sit down and wait to be served. Bear in mind that the price will be higher if you sit down. If you order un caffè you will get an espresso, for a longer coffee ask for a caffè americano. Caffè macchiato and are easy, as is a caffè (although ask for latte on its own and you’ll get a perplexed look and a glass of milk). Tea is usually served black with lemon, if you want milk specify “con latte“. A spremuta di arancia is freshly squeezed (there and then) orange juice, and a cornetto is a pastry, usually with jam (marmellata), custard (crema), or Nutella.”

“On your bill there will be a bread/cover charge (pane/coperto), usually €1 or €2 per person. No service charge will be added on the bill (or at least shouldn’t). By law service is included in the menu prices. If you have had good service feel free to add a tip, it will always be appreciated, but there is no obligation. Between €1 and €5 is common, no matter the bill’s amount.”

DIVORAROMA.COM | [email protected] | PORTLAND OREGON BASED, ALL-INCLUSIVE CULINARY VOYAGE THOUGH ROME, ITALY See you in Rome! [email protected] | (503) 732-0378 | WhatsApp username: AliceFalzone

I highly recommend downloading WhatsApp on your phone for free WIFI calls & messaging. You may consider purchasing a temporary international mobile plan for Italy in order to use your phone when not on WIFI.