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THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY
J o u r n a l
Number 31
2007 55503 BritainNepal 31 COV:55503 BritainNepal 31 COV 20/10/11 09:13 Page 4
ACORN Nepal Trust (Aid for Children of Rural Nepal and Educational Trust) Charitable Society Regd. No. 701/1999
President Rtn. Hari Bivor Karki
Vice-President Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki
Secretary Anjela Nepal Karki
Treasurer Mrs. Bimala Katuwal
Executive Members Dr. Yagya B. Karki Mrs. Shova Subedi Mrs. Sushila Khadka
Hon. Members Lady Morris of Kenwood Rtn. Gerald Hughes Mr. Brian Mayhew Ms. Diana Reason Dr Abhiram Bahadur Singh
Founder President Main Office U.K. Contact Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki Rtn. H.B. Karki PLEASE WRITE TO: The Gurkha Welfare Trust, PO Box 18215, 2nd Floor, Balkhu, Ring Road, Kathmandu - 14 21 Victoria Road, Aldershot 1 Old Street, London EC1V 9XB, telephone us on 020 7251 5234 Tel: 279762, Post Box: 3046 Hampshire GU11 1TQ or e-mail [email protected] Registered charity No. 1103669 Fax: 977-1-282688 Tel/Fax: 01252 316058 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 1
THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY
Journal Number 31 2007
CONTENTS
2 Editorial
4 The Society’s News
8 Royal Tiger Shoot Nepal
16 The Ambassador’s Dawn Redwood
20 The Tigers of Thuloswara
22 Kathmandu when the world was young
28 The Esther Benjamins Trust – an update
32 The Tom Hughes Family Trust – an update
34 The Yeti Nepali Association born in London
38 From the Editor’s In-Tray
40 Obituaries
50 Useful Addresses
51 Notes on the Britain – Nepal Society
52 Officers and Committee of the Society
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EDITORIAL
It is an inevitable fact that as the Society welcome HE Mr Sharma at the AGM. evolves over the years (now approaching Events in Nepal continue to concern us fifty years in 2010) that some of those all. Nevertheless members have founder and early members have passed continued to visit for treks, wildlife work on. I noted last year that the World War II and BRINOS, run by our secretary, Dr generation was passing and this has Neil Weir has held two successful continued throughout the last twelve medical camps in 2007. These are just months. This year’s obituaries include some of the activities that have occupied Lady Hunt, widow of our first President members in Nepal. Lord Hunt, Mr Arthur Kellas, our second In this edition of the journal tigers President, and one of our early Chairmen, again feature in two articles. I have been Lt Col Charles Wylie. With mountaineers able to reproduce the piece written by such as John Hunt and Charles Wylie, it Charles Wylie for the 1964 edition of the was little wonder that many of the The Kukri magazine, the journal of the Society’s early meetings were held in the Brigade of Gurkhas, about the Royal Alpine Club in South Audley Street. It tiger shoot held in 1963. This recounts was the enthusiasm and interest of such Charles’ part in what was probably the people that set the Society on its way. We last such shoot on that scale in the Terai. have to thank them, our predecessors, for Rick Beven has written a piece about their formative role in the Society’s early tigers in the remote villages. Jimmy years. In the need to ensure that link to Evans spoke to the Society about his first those early days as we approach our visit to Nepal after the war, before the fiftieth anniversary, the Society has country opened up to tourists and invited Sylvia, Countess of Limerick to visitors, and has written an evocative become one of our Vice Presidents. Lord description of that visit. Dr Mark Watson Limerick was a founder member, was of the Royal Botanical Gardens, treasurer and wrote the Society’s Edinburgh, has written about the constitution. In the last edition I noted the introduction of Dawn Redwood trees to changes at 12a Kensington Palace Nepal and the specimen in the British Gardens with the departure in the embassy garden which he visited earlier summer of 2006 of HE Mr Prabal SJB in the year. Harish Karki has written Rana to Kathmandu. The Deputy Head of about the early days of the formation of Mission, Mr Dipendra Pratap Bista the Yeti Association. I have also been became the Charge d’Affaires. Mr Bista able to include updates on two charities has also now returned to Nepal on his that both the Society and members have retirement in July 2007 to be replaced supported. As ever I am grateful to all initially as Charge d’Affaires by Mr who support the journal, either by Jhabindra Prasad Aryal. With the arrival contributing interesting articles or by in November of HE Mr Murari Raj advertising which helps to keep costs Sharma, Mr Aryal has assumed the down, and also to Peter Donaldson for position of Counsellor/Deputy Head of the photographs at Society events. Mission. We were fortunate to be able to
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THE ARCHIVIST
Mrs. Celia Brown has agreed to take on are planning to produce a short history of the task of collecting archival material the Society over the period 1960 to 2010 and in obtaining where possible, brief to commemorate the Society’s fiftieth memoirs. She would like to hear from anniversary in 2010. Archival material anyone who may wish to contribute. will play an important part in the However, in the first instance she would production of this publication. appreciate it if members could let her Her address is: 1 Allen Mansions, know what they have available. The Allen Street, London W8 6UY and editor of the journal and the committee email:[email protected]
SOCIETY TIES SCARVES AND LAPEL BADGES
Mr David Jefford kindly looks after the sale of the Society ties and scarves which cost £10.00 each including postage. They are available from him at: 20 Longmead, Fleet, Hampshire GU52 7TR or at the AGM or one of our major functions
Miss Jane Loveless has supervised the production of a very attractive lapel badge which is available for sale for £3.00 at the AGM and other major functions.
THE GURKHA MUSEUM PENINSULA BARRACKS ROMSEY ROAD, WINCHESTER HAMPSHIRE SO23 8TS Tel: (01962) 842832 Fax: (01962) 877597 THE UNIQUE AND EXCITING GURKHA STORY Open: MON-SAT 10am - 4.30pm SUN 12 - 4pm Registered Charity No. 272426
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THE SOCIETY’S NEWS By Dr Neil Weir Honorary Secretary During the year the Nepalese Embassy has We are grateful to all the speakers for their been without an ambassador. We hope that time, enthusiasm and excellent the new Ambassador will have arrived in illustrations. As is the custom we shall London in November 2006, and that we look forward to receiving them as our will be able to welcome him at a meeting. guests at the Annual Nepali Supper on Mr Dipendra Pratap Bista, the Charge Thursday 21 February 2008. d’Affaires, an ex officio member of the Society’s Executive Committee, has been DR RAGHAV DHITAL OBE particularly helpful to the Society and it On 19 June some members of the Society was with much sadness that we learnt of were able to witness the investiture of Dr his return to Nepal in July. For family Dhital with an honorary OBE by Mr reasons he left sooner than he had planned Howells, Minister of State at the FCO. The and thus we were unable to arrange a award recognised the work done by Dr farewell party. He has been replaced by Mr Dhital for the Nepalese community in the Jhabindra P Aryal. I have been ably UK and in fostering relations between our supported by my secretary, Mrs Daphne two countries. Field, until she retired at the end of May. The Society kindly made a generous gift to ANNUAL NEPALI SUPPER her to thank her for all the time she gave to The supper, attended by 120 members and the Society. Mrs Pat Mellor has continued guests, was held on 22 February at St to be a great support particularly by Columba’s Church of Scotland Hall in looking after membership matters. Pont Street. Mr Dipendra Pratap Bista and the Chairman spoke. LECTURES The change of venue to the Medical Society of London has continued to be a success and two meetings have been followed by a Nepalese supper provided by the Munal Restaurant. The change has also been financially successful as was seen in the accounts. The lectures given were: Tuesday 30 January 2007: Professor Michael Hutt: ‘Monarchy, Maoists and The QGOOs and the bar staff before the Political Parties’. supper party. Wednesday 28 March: Col William Shuttlewood: ‘An update on the work of the Gurkha Welfare Trust’. Tuesday 22 May: Dr Neil Weir and Mr Adam Schulberg: ‘The work of the Britain Nepal Otology Service in Nepal’; followed by a Nepali supper. Tuesday 16 October: Col David Hayes: ‘A review of the Brigade of Gurkhas and the new Terms and Conditions of The Chairman flanked by the Charge d’Affaires, Service’; followed by a Nepali supper. Mr Bista and Mrs Bista at the supper.
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Thursday 6 March Mr Ramesh Dhungel: ‘The British Resident, Brian Hodgson and his manuscripts from Nepal.’ Wednesday 21 May tba - followed by Nepali supper Thursday 16 October tba - followed by Nepali supper Annual Nepali Supper Thursday 21 The Treasurer, Dr Peter Trott and friends February 2008 to be held at St at the supper. Columba’s Hall, Pont Street.
WEBSITE www.britain-nepal-society.org.uk Mr Derek Marsh of Crystal Consultants (UK) has continued to assist us with the website. It does need more input and we are still keen to hear of any organisations that have existing websites or email addresses which might like to be linked to Mr Harish Karki, Mrs Sneha Rana and the Society’s website. The aim is for the Mr David Jefford at the supper. BNS website to provide a comprehensive list of organisations undertaking work in Nepal as we often hear of organisations interested in the same subject but working quite independently without knowledge of each other.
DEATHS It is with sadness that we report the death during 2007 of the following members: Mr ARH Kellas CMG (former President) Dr Howlett and friends at the supper. Mr JK King Mrs Ann Mitchell (former committee SUMMER OUTING member) Midsummer was typically wet and so was Mr PJL Lawrence the day of the outing, but it was not Lord Weatherill allowed to spoil a visit by thirty members Lt Col Charles Wylie OBE (former and their guests to Polesdon Lacy in the Chairman and Vice President) Surrey Hills. Mr Theon Wilkinson MBE (founder of the British Association for Cemeteries in FUTURE EVENTS South Asia (BACSA) Lectures: The dates for the 2008 lectures, all of which will be held at the Medical Society of London, 11 Chandos Street, are to be held on: Wednesday 30 January Miss Sue Carpenter: ‘My world view.’
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T,", wwU', !wv"'Od p"""u~" ,,~h /J 6 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 7 MunalMunal Restaurant Restaurant Est. 1990 www.munalrestaurant.co.uk [email protected] FINEST NEPALESE CUISINE FOOD FROM GURKHALAND 393 UPPER RICHMOND ROAD PUTNEY LONDON SW15 5QL TEL: 020 8876 3083/8878 9170 TAKEAWAY SERVICE AVAILABLE 10% Discount on collection only WE GUARANTEE GOOD QUALITY FOOD AT REASONABLE PRICES RECOMMENDED BY GOOD CURRY GUIDE WE ALSO DO OUTSIDE CATERING OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 12-2.30 p.m. & 6-11.30 p.m. WEEKEND TILL MIDNIGHT BRANCHES 76 CENTRAL ROAD WORCESTER PARK, SURREY KT4 8HX Tel: 020 8330 3511/3711 FREE HOME DELIVERY (Orders over £12.00 within 3 miles radius) TAKEAWAY 205 LOWER RICHMOND RD PUTNEY, LONDON, SW15 1HL Tel: 020 8789 0357/0798 Tuesday-Sunday (5.30-11pm) 7 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 8 ROYAL TIGER SHOOT IN NEPAL By Lt Col C G Wylie, 10 GR (This article first appeared in the 1964 a child I had fingered the long ornate edition of ‘The Kukri’, the journal of the hunting knife which hung on the wall at Brigade of Gurkhas.I am grateful for the home and I had been told that it had been editor’s permission to reproduce it here in presented to my grandfather, then the memory of Colonel Wylie. Those of us in Resident in Nepal, by the Archduke Franz Kathmandu at the time well remember Ferdinand (whose assassination in 1914 Charles Wylie regaling us with the story. Mr triggered off the First World War) when RF Rosner, now a member of the Society, they had together been the guests of the was then a Third Secretary at the US Maharajah Dhir on a tiger shoot in the Embassy, lent Colonel Wylie his .375 rifle nineties. And then there was the beautiful with which he used to shoot the tiger. I skin of a tigress shot by my father on the believe that this shoot in 1963 was probably Maharajah Joodha’s shoot, just 30 years one of the last tiger shoots on this scale in before, in, by coincidence, the same part of the Terai. Opinion changed towards the Terai for which we were bound. It had conservation of tigers and their habitat as seemed too much to hope, however, that a both declined following migration from the chance would ever come my way. Gone hills and development of agriculture in the were the days of the massive shoots of the Terai. To this end national parks were Rana Maharajahs some of whom used to established such as Chitwan, Parsa, Bardia shoot for three months in the year using and Sukla Phanta which are now important four hundred elephants. King Mahendra, areas for the survival of tigers. The although a keen expert shot, was problems for conservation in these areas conscientiously engaged on the full time were highlighted in the 2006 edition of the task of ruling his country and had little Journal. Subsequent holders of the Military time for recreation. And, with the influx of Attaché post in Kathmandu are doubtless foreign missions there were many more relieved that they were not called upon to eligible to be invited than a Military uphold the honour of the UK and the Attaché. When it came then the invitation Brigade of Gurkhas on tiger shoots! An was all the more exciting for being totally account of this shoot, written by the late Lt unexpected. Col Bill Gresham, then the US Military I began to add up the score. Lt Col Bill Attaché, appeared in the 2001 edition of the Gresham, the American Army Attaché, and journal. Ed.) Colonel Bir Man Singh, the Indian Military Attaché, were enthusiastic and experienced In February 1963, the four Military shots. Colonel Kan Mai, the Red Chinese Attachés in Kathmandu had the honour and MA, was a dark horse. I had wasted my great good fortune to be invited to His time, I now decided, climbing mountains. I Majesty King Mahendra’s tiger shoot in the realised with a jolt, that I had never even District of Kanchenpur (Now more seen a live tiger outside a zoo. As to my popularly known as Sukla Phanta. Ed.) at prowess with a rifle, I knew that had the western end of the Terai. Except for deteriorated steadily since that first members and relatives of the Royal Family miraculous classification at Sandhurst, there were no other guests, so we were more years ago than I cared to recall, when privileged indeed. I suspected my neighbour of firing on my I had always secretly harboured hopes of target. And my experience of big game taking part in a tiger shoot in Nepal. My shooting was confined to one night after imagination had first been kindled when as bear in Chamba, when the black mass, 8 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 9 dimly seen through the makkai, which I shy and inquisitive, whose women wear shot, had turned out to be a porcupine. masses of silver jewellery, heavy ankle A glorious morning some days later bangles, quaint black hoods and flared found us assembling in the Royal Flight skirts. Here we were met by Major Bharat enclosure at Gauchar airport. Our Sinha of the Royal Nepalese Army, who invitations included wives, and Juanita had been detailed to look after us during Gresham and Pushpi Man Singh, dressed the shoot. A two-hour drive through sal practically yet prettily for the jungle, forest took us to the Royal Shikar Camp. brought charm and gaiety to our already This can perhaps best be described as high spirited party. Poor Kan Mai would no something between King Henry’s camp doubt have liked to bring his wife, but before Agincourt and a country agricultural Communist negotiations evidently forbade show. To begin with it was not in the this and in her place came the inevitable jungle, but in a large area of grassland. In “interpreter” without who even the best the centre was a high tent wall 100 yards linguists among the Red Chinese are not square, inside which was the King’s allowed to move outside the Embassy. personal camp. An open belt 100 yards We flew West in the Dakota of the Royal wide surrounded this, on the outside of Flight seated on folding canvas bench seats which were the enclosures of the C-in-C, running down the sides, while tied down in Inspector General of Police, Ministers and the gangway were various last minute staff and also ours. All tents were very well essentials for the camp; cases of Scotch, a pitched and each area screened off with “thunder box” and a magnificent yellow tin “Connaughts”. In the MAs’ area, we each bath tub of truly royal dimensions. To the had a 180 lb tent (equipped with a bottle of North the splendid array of the High whisky) with a private enclosure behind Himalayas stood out in crystal clarity; with small tents for bath and loo. We had a Ganesh Himal, Himalchuli, the Annapurnas communal mess tent and two vast and Machapuchare thrusting its twin campfires. As well as our personal summits up defiantly. I saw again with orderlies we were looked after by servants astonishment the steepness of the Fish from the State Guest House at Kathmandu Tail’s slopes and ridges up which we had and by “pipas”, the camp followers of the edged and inched our way in 1957. Surely Nepalese Army, who were quite excellent. not there? But there we had been; there We settled in, bathed and changed. In was the snowfield where Camp 4 was, and the evening we were invited to drinks at there the ice ridge through which Tashi had His Majesty’s enclosure. There we were tunnelled. I thought of Wilfred Noyce presented, and His Majesty inquired if we whose body now lies amid the snows of the were comfortable. Later we walked over to Russian Pamirs, the best of companions, another part of the camp to see some local and great British mountaineer of his dancing. The Tharu dancers looked generation; his craftsmanship had made the magnificent with necklaces of animals’ whole climb on Machapuchare possible teeth, and peacocks’ feathers fastened carrying him to within a stone’s throw of behind their heads. Their dancing in the the top. (Charles Wylie and Lord Chorley flickering light of the camp fires could well described this expedition in a lecture to the have been a scene from some opera ballet. Society in 2000. Charles contributed a Next morning we asked if we might go piece in the 2000 edition of the journal. out with the elephants to see the ring Ed.) formed rather than follow the normal We landed at Dhangarhi as if in a new practice for guests which is to join the ring world, a flat, dusty world of dark graceful only when definite news reaches the camp people, the Tharus of the far Western Terai, that there is tiger there. 9 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 10 Nepal is the only country in the world mount. For all their bulk, elephants are where the technique of ringing tigers by surprisingly agile and move along at a very elephants is used. Locating a tiger and brisk pace. We had hardly grown used to forming a ring around it, is an operation the ship-like motion, when we came to the requiring considerable skill. Buffaloes are river where the tiger had drunk after his tied as bait, usually in jungle not far from a kill. On the far bank a blazed tree marked river. When the tiger has killed, he will first the point at which the line of elephants drag the carcass off to a spot where he can divided to form the ring; one elephant went eat his fill undisturbed. He will then go to to the right, the next to the left, each the river to drink and after that sleep off his column following the shikari’s marks. meal not more than 2-300 yards away in Soon we emerged from the jungle to a the best cover he can find. Elephant grass large expanse of elephant grass, about 12 provides the best cover of all. feet high, through which our elephants When a kill has been discovered the ploughed majestically in a half circle until shikari will inspect the river bank to find the two columns met to complete the ring. the tiger’s pug marks. A good shikari will A big shout then went up to make sure the be able to tell the size and sex of the tiger realised there were people all around animal and whether it is with or without him and that he should therefore stay put. cubs. He will also be able to say almost Then the elephants started beating the grass exactly where the tiger will be lying up. He down with their trunks, until there was a then blazes the trees or knots the elephant broad swathe cleared around the grass where he decides the ring should be circumference of the ring. This done, the formed. screen was unrolled from the backs of the On the Royal tiger shoot there may be elephants carrying it, and erected in the anything up to 15 or 20 buffaloes out at middle of the cleared band. This screen is a any one time. When a shikari finds one 6-foot high strip of white cloth which is killed he reports at once. Reporting today put up to help keep the tiger in the ring. Of is speeded up by wireless messages to the course tigers can easily break through it or Royal camp from reporting centres out in jump it, but in fact they are frightened the jungle manned by the Nepalese Army. when they first see it and usually turn back. Sometimes reports of 5 or 6 kills come in When the screen was up the mahouts all in one day; only occasionally is there a shouted, “Khabardar” and then four or blank day. Depending on the “Khabar”, five elephants that had been left inside the (information), His Majesty decides in the ring to do the beating started looking for evening which tiger should be ringed and the tiger. Very soon there was a big growl who should have the shot the following and there was no longer any doubt that a day. The rule is that only one person tiger was there. The beating elephants then should shoot at any one tiger, so that there ignored the tiger and started clearing a is no doubt as to who killed it. killing area in front of where the shooter’s After an early breakfast, we walked over howdah elephant was to be. They cleared a to where the elephants were assembled to semi-circle about 30 yards in radius. receive their riders. It was a magnificent However, there was still plenty of cover for sight; 54 elephants in one long rank, some the tiger even in this area, when they had highly painted, others with gaily coloured finished. In the long elephant-grass beyond, howdahs. In striking contrast at the end of there was no chance at all of seeing a tiger. the line was the King’s helicopter. Now all was ready and we waited for the The Nepalese officer in charge called arrival of the Royal Party. While we waited our elephants out by name, one by one, and there was much to watch; monkeys in the they came forward and knelt for us to trees, green parrots flashing about and 10 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 11 pecking at the red cotton-wool tree blooms, up a hog deer at once, but couldn’t get a and the delightful behaviour of the shot in the long grass. Later I heard the elephants whom I could never tire of other MAs doing a lot of firing on my watching. It was fascinating to see how right. A barasingha had crossed right in they pulled out grass with their trunks, front of them all, and all had missed. It had smacked it about against their legs to get then been put up again in front of Kan Mai the earth off the roots, and then carefully who got it. One up to China. bit the bottom few inches off, and threw Next day all elephants were needed for a away the rest. Anything we dropped would beat by His Majesty, so we went off in a be picked up with great care in the jeep to get some duck-shooting at a jheel sensitive trunk tip and returned to us in the some twenty miles away. On the way we saddle. While we waited we were visited saw several groups of chital in one of by the “mess” elephant which brought not which I shot a buck. There were lots of only an excellent lunch but a complete bar birds on the jheel but they seemed wise to directly alongside our elephants. guns and took off as soon as we arrived – Shortly after the Royal Party arrived on 250 odd duck wheeling out of sight, a elephants from the camp and transferred to lovely sight. We also saw two enormous the shooting howdahs, the Raj Kumar of cranes with red necks that flew Kasipur (whose mother is the sister of the ponderously by, honking noisily. Queen Mothers, King Tribhuvana’s The following day the MAs began their widows) being detailed to shoot the tiger. tigers. Bir Man Singh, being the doyen The shout of “Khabardar” went up again went first. It was soon evident there was and the elephants in the ring began to beat. more than one tiger in the ring. The When they met the tiger we could hear elephants seemed to bump them every time snarls and growls and see the elephant- they moved. The tigers also appeared to be grass moving as he ran about. Sometimes very wild, rushing round at high speed he charged the elephants and put them to growling most ferociously. Before long the flight. They would retire temporarily to the grass parted suddenly right in front of my screen and then come back majestically. elephant and a tiger dived under the screen, One elephant, Himal Kalli, was quite badly flashed by and disappeared like a streak mauled and retired altogether from the into the grass beyond. We had hardly got ring. But the big tusker, Motiparsad, kept over this excitement when another tiger the others going. Once I saw a flash of bounded out and made for the screen on yellow as the tiger came my side, but that the other side of my elephant. He failed to was all. Suddenly there was a shot – the negotiate it and started to fight his way tiger had started to walk warily across the over, getting slightly tangled in the process. cleared patch in front of the howdah This was a marvellous cine shot, but my elephants. He had been hit in his spine; two elephant thought otherwise – tigers to the more shots and the ring was broken and we right and tigers to the left were altogether all went up to see the dead tiger being too much for him and he bolted, leaving measured and loaded on to an elephant to me clinging to my saddle ropes for dear be taken away. life. Just at that moment Bir Man Singh It was still quite early so we were told took his chance and dropped the tiger with we could go off “Phutkar”. This means a fine shot. It measured 9ft 7ins. roaming around on your elephant shooting Not content with this, the elephants any game you see. Being on an elephant of found another tiger in the ring. Now it was course has tremendous advantages; you Kan Mai’s turn. Bir Man Singh had taken have an excellent view point and can move 15 minutes over his, but it was four hours fast and far over any sort of ground. I put before Kan Mai’s tiger was finally killed. 11 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 12 The only excitement came when there was tiger. Soon one was located in a clump of another escape from the ring. The tiger reeds and my elephant was moved round climbed over quite close to the shooting there. The beating elephants flushed it and howdah. Kan Mai had an easy shot here, I had a reasonable shot as it bounded away but failed to reload. There was still another from me at about 40 yards range. This time tiger - the fourth – in the ring, and this, there was no doubt and it was quite after 11 shots, Kan Mai dispatched. After immobilised. We broke the ring and I all this it turned out to be a 6ft cub. finished it off. Although it was now late in the afternoon By this time we knew there was still a the C-in-C, General Nir, ordered another tiger in the ring. Prince Gyanendra – the ring to be made. It was my shot next. By King’s second son – got this. Even this was the time we had moved to the next place not the end. Yet another was found and and had formed the ring, there were only shot, again by Prince Gyanendra. When we some 40 minutes of daylight left. came to pick up all the three killed that We soon heard growls and a very fast morning they were all found to be young and angry animal came rushing and ones who had been with their mother. Mine bounding in and out of the grass like an was a 7ft young tigress. Again four in the express train going too fast to keep on the one ring, making a total of eight tigers rails. I found it quite impossible to get my ringed the day before. sights on him, let alone keep them there It was still early and as the elephants long enough to press the trigger. The were needed by the King, we asked if we express train disappeared unscathed, but could go back after black buck in the shortly after obliged with a repeat Landrovers. Bill had been in this area performance. “Shoot, Shoot”, shouted before and knew of a herd close by. We everyone. So I shot, and missed, and shot eventually spotted them about a mile away again. “It’s wounded, it’s dying”, I was and went into action at once. There was a told, but it had disappeared completely. low ridge in front and the four MAs took There were growls everywhere and one up positions on this while the Landrovers tiger (it was clear there was more than one worked round the herd’s flanks and drove in the ring) actually jumped on the back of them towards the guns from the rear. The an elephant. Finally the C-in-C decided I scheme worked perfectly and Bill got the had got my tiger and when Bill Gresham big buck with the horns he wanted with a said he could see one sitting looking at good standing shot at 200 yards. This was him, he was allowed to shoot. He shot the first time I had seen black buck three times and certainly hit, but no body moving; never have I seen such graceful could be found. There were still an awful animals. The sight of the herd of 20 or 25 lot of live tiger noises coming from the each leaping 5 or 6 feet in the air at each ring when it got completely dark so we left stride was quite lovely. the screen up and the mahouts lit fires and That night His Majesty graciously stayed all night round the ring. decided that the two young tigers shot by When we arrived again the next morning Kan Mai and me wouldn’t count, and that they had found one dead tigress – 9ft 3ins we would be given a chance to get bigger – which the C-in-C awarded to Bill ones. Kan Mai took the ring first next Gresham as it had been found not far from morning. We were told there were three where he had shot. Nothing more. As I had tigers in the ring. One came out fairly soon feared, I had missed; I really should have and paused nicely in the open to give Kan stuck to climbing mountains, I thought. But Mai a good shot over which he made no there was no time for fulminating, as I was mistake. The remaining two were specially back in the shooting howdah to get my lively and showed themselves enough for 12 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 13 General Nir to judge that they were young suddenly all of him was visible as he made ones, about 8ft in length. It was my turn a big bound over a patch of beaten next, and General Nir asked me if I wanted elephant-grass. Would I ever get as good a to have a go at one of these, but I said I chance as this again? This was it, I would rather not as they were not fully decided, and tried. My shot hit him in the grown. All agreed this was right, so the spine, I learned later. Not a good shot in screen was lifted and the ring of elephants fact; I should have aimed and hit behind broken to allow the young tigers to run off. the shoulder, but there seemed to be no They were not going to leave Mama, and time to aim at all. However, I had beaten very soon they had all our elephants my colleagues’ deadline! trumpeting and stampeding off in all The tiger’s momentum had carried him directions. This really was exciting. I was to the edge of the long grass where he lay only a few yards from one tusker who was evidently finished, but still breathing. We fending-off a young tiger with his tusks. broke the ring for the final coup de grace. Finally the ring of elephants withdrew to a It was a big animal – a male – and even safe distance and the tuskers eased the after two further carefully-aimed shots with young tigers off into the jungle. General the telescopic sight it was till breathing. In Nir himself measured Kan Mai’s tigress spite of this General Nir ordered a shikari and announced it to be 9ft 3ins – exactly to dismount and pull its tail. This he did, the same as Bill Gresham’s. Bill without dire results. Finally it stopped complained that this was carrying Nepalese breathing. It took almost a dozen men to neutrality too far! We spent the afternoon pull it out. It measured 9ft 10ins. black-partridge shooting. After the shikaris had done their ritual Next morning it was my turn again. It – they place seven bits of grass side by was a nice small ring. When we arrived side and put a drop of blood on each to everything was ready and I climbed into appease the Bhandevi – we moved on to the shooting howdah next to the C-in-C. the next ring. Prince Basundara, Prince Gyanendra, cine This was the last day’s shooting and the cameras galore, the Russian helicopter last ring. His Majesty was to shoot. The crews, Uncle Tom Cobley and all were shikaris had reserved what they judged to there. One certainly feels “on the spot”. be the biggest tiger for this ring. The local My fellow MAs, each with a good tiger villages were full of stories about a safely in the bag, had, to make it worse, monster tiger, and excitement ran high. given me a maximum of 5 minutes to kill When the beating began it was clear the my tiger. The shikaris said it was a big one. shikaris were right, from the exceptionally At first move by the beating elephants, it loud roars. It was also clear the tiger had started for the screen to my right. I could no intention of being flushed. He didn’t see the grass moving fast. Then it saw the wait for the elephants to move his way, he screen and I had a momentary glimpse of attacked them before they moved. He soon most of its body as it turned and leapt. could do what he liked with them, and “Shoot, shoot”, shouted everyone; kept scattering them all over the ring, excitement runs high and there is no lack drawing blood from the biggest tusker. of advice. But I was determined not to Hours passed without a view of him. Just blaze away in the first few seconds, but as darkness was about to fall, the tiger was rather to wait my time in spite of my dimly seen lying up half way round the colleagues’ impatience. Now the tiger was ring. The King sent the Rajah of Kasipur bounding back in and out of the cover just round to take the shot. After much inside the killing area. Still I could not see pointing and peering through telescopic more than an occasional flash. Then sights, the Rajah shot, but still the deep 13 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 14 growls continued. The King came round moment the storm broke. He could well be and added a few shots. No one knew called the Lord of the Jungle – he was 10ft whether the tiger was alive or dead, or 8ins – the third largest tiger ever killed in wounded. Excitement was intense, as it Nepal. No rain at all is expected at that was almost dark and we would have to time of the year; even the few showers that find it if it was wounded. usually fall in January had been over a Then quite suddenly came the most month before. unexpected and dramatic dénouement to When all was sorted out we had a very the whole shoot. There was a clap of pleasant evening in camp at a farewell thunder, a flash of lightning, and looking buffet supper with the Royal family who round we saw the sky was completely were happy and informal and excellent black. The next moment the storm hit us. A hosts and hostesses. The King went outside young hurricane, amid sheets of rain, sent with me and inspected my tiger and spoke the screen for six. The elephants all took about guns and calibres; he is obviously an off for home, with us clinging on for dear enthusiastic and very knowledgeable shot. life once more. In a few moments the shoot We flew back to Kathmandu where the had come to an end; the ring had Airport Manager congratulated me on disintegrated and the shooters were being winning the “competition”. The MAs’ borne away willy-nilly. It was as if some shooting had apparently been keenly supernatural force had intervened. Later followed in the capital! Princess Princep, who is a devout person, So ended an exciting and memorable told us that this is what always happens week. when the Lord of the Jungle is killed. The tiger had in fact been killed, and at the very TANDOORI AND CURRY RESTAURANT (Fully Air Conditioned) Private room available for up to 40 persons. Parties catered for 268 KING STREET HAMMERSMITH LONDON W6 0SP TELEPHONE: 020 8748 3586, 020 8741 2057 14 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 15 WorldWide Volunteering Volunteering opportunities for people of all ages throughout the UK and worldwide www.wwv.org.uk T. 01935 825588 [email protected] F. 01935 825775 “You are never too old to volunteer” 15 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 16 THE AMBASSADOR’S DAWN REDWOOD By Dr Mark Watson (Mark Watson of the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, and a mutual friend Garden Edinburgh is a taxonomic of Tony Schilling, himself a renowned botanist specialising in the Sino- horticulturist with deep Nepalese Himalayan region. He leads the Flora connections. Spring-Smyth presented the of Nepal project, an international tree to the British Embassy in 1971 and, collaboration of Nepalese, UK and on hearing that I was working at the Japanese botanists working together to Embassy, was keen for news of how this produce the first comprehensive account tree was faring after 35 years in the of all the plants in Nepal. He travels extremes of the Kathmandu climate. I often to Nepal engaged in field contacted the British Ambassador and in research, working with Nepalese due course was pleased to report back colleagues and contributing to that this tree is doing very well indeed. conservation efforts in Nepal.) Spring-Smyth was delighted and asked me to produce a commemorative plaque The dusty, rutted road that runs along the to explain a little of the tree’s history and southern wall of the British Embassy in importance. This I did, and in March this Kathmandu was our short cut from the year my wife Lesley and I presented it to bustle of Thamel to the sanctuary of the HE Dr Andrew Hall and his wife Kathie Embassy’s Kingdon Hall where we ran in the Embassy. The stainless-steel our training workshops. Apart from plaque was made by Alexander Pollock school children and refuse workers Limited of Haddington, near Edinburgh, (unfortunately this was a holding area and now stands next to the tree where it before the fragrant contents of their is admired by visitors to the teeming handcarts were collected by Ambassador’s garden. This Dawn trucks) few tread this path. But, if you Redwood may well be known to Britain- do, you may notice the tall, narrow spire Nepal Society members, and this article of a tree towering above the red brick aims to provide a little background to its wall near a seldom-used side entrance. In scientific importance and to draw summer you might pass this off as a together some strands of its history at the rather ordinary conifer, but in autumn Embassy. you would be surprised by the leaves The Dawn Redwood genus turning a burnished bronze and later Metasequoia was first described by a falling as the cold evenings take hold. Japanese scientist in 1941 working on This is no regular conifer but a Dawn fossils from the Mesozoic Era dating Redwood (Metasequoia back over 90 million years. Three species glyptostroboides), a deciduous tree with a of Metasequoia are now recognised to fascinating history stretching back at have formed extensive forests across least 90 million years. huge areas of the Northern Hemisphere at My attention was first drawn to this a time when the dinosaurs ruled the tree by Major (Retd) Tom Le M. Spring- Earth. No fossils younger than 1.5 Smyth, a name familiar to me as the million years have been found and for collector of many fine shrubs from Nepal several years the genus was thought to be now growing at the Royal Botanic extinct. Remarkably, at the same time as 16 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 17 the naming of the fossil genus, an tree. Despite being in cultivation for less unusual tree was reported many than 60 years, some planted specimens thousands of miles away by a Chinese have already reached a towering 38m forester working in a remote part of (125ft) in height with the red-brown Sichuan. After delays due to World War buttressed trunks growing to 2m across II, scientific specimens were collected (Ma Jin-shuang personal from these trees, examined and named as communication). The tallest tree in China an extant fourth species M. glyptostroboides is reported to be 420 years old and 42m by Cheng Wan-chun and Hu Hsen-hsu in (138ft) tall. Contrary to earlier reports in 1948. Detailed fieldwork has now Nepal, this is a dioecious tree and bears revealed that this species is very rare in both tiny, 6mm pollen-bearing cones the wild and occurs naturally in only a borne in the spring and larger (to 2.5cm few localities in Hubei, Sichuan and across), more conspicuous longer-lived, Hunan provinces of China. The woody seed-bearing cones. remarkable discovery of this ‘living fossil’ is of great scientific importance, and this enigmatic and beautiful tree has become a potent symbol linking the present with the past. Plaque details. In 1971 Spring-Smyth asked Roy Lancaster to bring two seedlings of Dawn Redwood from England when he journeyed to Nepal in late September. Lancaster, Len Beer and Dave Morris formed part of the University of Bangor plant collecting expedition (see Lancaster, A Plantsman in Nepal, 1981 and 1995). Spring-Smyth had thought that this fast-growing tree, not then Head Gardener Madan Raj Thapa known in Nepal, might prove suitable as alongside the tree and plaque. a rapid source of timber, but these particular specimens were intended as Dawn Redwood is a deciduous conifer gifts to the British and American of the family Cupressaceae and was Embassies in Kathmandu. The ‘British’ introduced into cultivation by the Arnold sapling was presented at a luncheon party Arboretum, Massachusetts in 1948. It is at the Embassy where the Ambassador now widely grown in temperate regions and his wife (Terence and Rita O’Brien) where it is often planted as an ornamental were joined by the Spring-Smyth’s and 17 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 18 Tree in winter. Tree in summer. the expedition members. The Bangor A few years after these Embassy expedition, rich in horticultural experts, saplings were planted, the Nepalese elected a shady damp place in the SE Department of Forests imported 20kg of corner of the Ambassador’s Garden seed directly from China in 1974/75. where this remarkable tree might These seeds were grown in a Forest flourish. Well they chose, as in 2006 it Nursery at Thimi (10km east of was growing strongly and measured Kathmandu) and saplings planted out at 25.3m (84ft) in height. The following various sites around the Kathmandu measurements are collated from several valley. Another report from China states unpublished letters and notes. that this large group of seeds was The ‘British’ tree is undoubtedly the introduced into Nepal when Chinese Vice finest example of its kind in Nepal and is Premier Deng Xiao-ping visited in currently in very good condition. Recent February 1978 (Ma Jin-shuang personal examination, however, has revealed that communication), so some doubt remains the tree has developed a double leader, on the actual date theses seeds were and once this has been pruned out, this introduced. In 2002 D.P. Acharya, a plant will continue to be an excellent forester at the Department of Forest, wrote specimen tree. The ‘American’ tree faired that some of these trees were growing well less well as it happened to be planted in various parts of the Valley. In 1978 close to competitive poplars, and its Malcolm Campbell (Nepal-Australia current status needs checking. Forestry Project) took 20cm long cuttings Date Height Girth at Breast Height Recorder 1978 (Aug) 10.55m 0.63cm Malcolm Campbell 1996 21.8m (71ft 6in) ? ? 2002 (Jan) 24.1m (79ft 1in) 2.1m (6ft 11in) Ronald Nash 2006 (Mar) 25.3m (84ft) 2.18m Genevieve Bloomfield 18 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 19 from the British tree with a good number (Former and the present ‘custodians’ surviving and growing to 1.5m in the first have commented below: year. In a letter to Tony Schilling, Mr Timothy George: “The tree gave Campbell records that he planted out us a scare in our first winter when it several on the Godavari Road and ten in showed signs of losing its leaves. We private homes in the Valley. Whilst hadn’t realised that it was deciduous. travelling in and around Kathmandu I have We are delighted that Madan Raj Thapa kept an eye out for Dawn Redwoods, but is still there since we appointed him as have hardly ever seen any others apart the first gardener with any qualifications from a few in private gardens. It has been in an attempt to professionalize grounds reported that some trees were planted on maintenance.” the road to Godavari, however, I have not HE Dr Andrew Hall: “This tree has noticed any on this route either. always been impeccably well-behaved Unfortunately, it is highly likely that these unlike our numerous and very beautiful have suffered the same fate as the other jacarandas which have a habit of trees that formed the wonderful avenues of shedding massive boughs without the trees which line the road in old slightest warning as one did last year, photographs. Almost none remain, most just an hour or so after I had been having been killed through excessive enjoying a quiet smoke under its cutting for fodder and fuel, or removal to shade.”) widen the roadway. 19 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 20 THE TIGERS OF THULOSWARA By Rick Beven (Rick Beven served in the 6th Gurkha In his day the Colonel had been a Rifles and then, on amalgamation, the brilliant if unorthodox officer. He had Royal Gurkha Rifles. After retirement spent thirty-nine years of his military he spent several months travelling on career in Asia and spoke nine Asian foot across Nepal and interviewed languages. He had fought the Japanese many ex-servicemen, both young and in Burma, the communists in Indo- old, about their experiences in the China and Malaya, and the Indonesians Army. He is currently an Arms Monitor in Borneo. When he retired he became with the UN Mission in Nepal. He an assistant lecturer at Tribhuvan lectured to the Society in 2003.) University in Kathmandu. By now his eyesight was failing and “If you go to Thuloswara you must stay a series of operations had left him at our house”, said the Colonel. His visually impaired. In England he would son, Buddhiman, added, “It is on top of probably have ended up in an old the hill, above the village”. You can see people’s home. In Nepal, his chosen the house from miles around; from the home, his adopted family looked him old fort at Purankot across the valley, after. Buddhiman became his eyes and from the green forests of chillaune and constant companion. katouss as you reach the top of the Their house in the hills goes by the ridge, climbing up from Sundar Bazaar; name of “Cadwallon Cottage”, an and from the huge grey stone slab, the eccentricity from the mists of the sindure dhunga, where the old rajas of Colonel’s distant ancestry. It is a Lamjung were once proclaimed king. typical Nepalese house of two storeys, Until the happy Gods of fate caused better built than most, with ornately the paths of these two to cross, carved wooden windows and a long Buddhiman’s family was one of the veranda. From its green lawn, poorest in Thuloswara village. His surrounded by a very English grey father died when he was in his teens. stone wall, you can see the brilliant Later, he had been too short to take white ridges of Machhapuchhre and the normal escape route of joining an Annapurna in the Nepal Himalaya. army. For years Buddhiman’s family The Colonel and Buddhiman’s had struggled to make ends meet until family live in Pokhara. Cadwallon the day that the Colonel adopted him Cottage is their village home, their as his son. house in the hills. Buddhiman’s saru, It is not uncommon in Nepal for an or brother-in-law, looks after it. elder man, especially one who is Rambahadur is also a poor man. He unmarried or childless, to adopt a son. owns three buffaloes and is able to What is unusual is that Buddhiman is a grow just enough maize and millet to Gurung of the Dura clan whilst his new feed his family. “You are baba’s father was a retired British Colonel in friend”, he tells me as he presents me the Brigade of Gurkhas. with a chicken for supper. When I ask 20 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 21 if I can buy some ruxi, the local spirit me “Pheri, pheri bhetaunla”, ‘let us of the hills, he makes a fire and his meet again.’ wife brings out her heavy copper pan In the evening, Rambahadur shows and distills alcohol from millet for the me where the water is piped from a hill porters and I to drink with our chicken. a mile away to a water tank where I In the afternoon I visit the Captain can wash. “From time to time”, he says Sahib. Captain Bakansing Dura is the as he watches over me, “a bagh comes oldest Gurkha serviceman in the here to drink.” “Every evening?” I ask, village. He is a wrinkled, rotund old looking up from my half-finished man with an oval face like a ablutions, not believing that a tiger benevolent sealion. He will be ninety could survive in these heavily this monsoon, he tells me, sitting on populated hills. “No, just when he has the porch of his traditional mud- killed a buffalo or a goat belonging to daubed house. the village and is thirsty after eating so His eyes are still as sharp as a much salt”, Rambahadur answers. crocodile’s as he recounts thirty-three The next day Rambahadur years of military service. Pictures of accompanies us for a short distance to him sitting amongst British Gurkha show us the short cut through the Officers attired in starched white jungle to the next village. Just beyond tropical uniforms hang proudly on the a small Shivite temple, beside the path walls of his house. In 1947, when along the ridge, there are two rows of India gained its independence from grey stones that slope to join in the Britain, he was going to transfer to the middle, forming a tight tunnel. “What Indian Army. “Then I saw my British are those?” I ask. “That is an old tiger officers crying and I changed my trap”, Rambahadur tells me. “A goat mind”, he tells me. used be tethered at night at one end of He shuffles off to get his medals, the trap and the tiger would be unwrapping them from a brown attracted by its cries. It could only handkerchief: the North West Frontier reach the goat by entering the tunnel Medal, the 1939 – 45 Star, the Burma and, once it did, a large rock would fall Star, the War Service Medal, the 1939 – behind it, trapping it inside. It would 45 India Medal, the Indian remain there all night, roaring and Independence Medal, the General unable to eat the goat or escape. Then Service Medal (Malaya) and the Long in the morning the villagers would Service and Good Conduct Medal. come and spear it to death.” These days he is too old and (There are no prizes for guessing the arthritic to walk far. Every day he identity of ‘the Colonel’. Ed.) takes a constitutional walk up to the ridge above his house. His relatives have built a special stone seat for him underneath a scarlet rhododendron tree. He walks there each day to sit on the side of the hill and survey his land. When I rise to leave he says to 21 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 22 KATHMANDU – WHEN THE WORLD WAS YOUNG By Colonel J M Evans MC (This article is based on the lecture given seldom worn a coat or tie in the last four to the Society by Col Jimmy Evans on 1st years, we had a smart jacket and trousers February 2005 and was also published in run up by the darzi. Together with Service the 2006 edition of ‘The Kukri’, journal of Dress uniforms, two shotguns and other the Brigade of Gurkhas. I am grateful for impedimenta it took ten porters to carry permission to reproduce it here. Ed.) our trunks when we walked in. Accompanied by the four orderlies, who Nepal is an old country. Kathmandu is an were looking forward to the trip as much old, old city - but when my friend Derek as Royals and I, we set off by Indian broad Royals and I went there in 1946 it looked gauge railway on 21st September 1946. We fresh and green and new. We were young - could not wait to get out of the heat and so the world was young. We spent a month dust of the plains of India. Passing through there. It was the journey of a lifetime. I Lucknow, we began to think we were on want to tell you how it all came about. the way at last. The station was crowded After the long campaign in Burma, all of with Gurkha soldiers going on leave, us serving with the Gurkhas, far away from untidy after long days on the train, but all home, looked upon the battalion as our dressed alike; no badges but wearing the second family. Sitting around the camp fires Hat Felt, Gurkha, civilian shirt and a at night we never tired of listening to the knitted wool scarf, bright green or red men talking about life in the villages in the slung over the shoulder, to which was tied hills of Nepal, the glorious mountain a towel and spare clothing and pushed into country where no foreigners were allowed. it also, each man carried a kukri. Many a British Officer would have given a I made brief notes of the journey in an month’s pay just to go across the border. old black notebook which I found again a I do not know what gave me the bold idea, short while ago, to which I will lapse into but we wrote a letter to the British Minister occasionally. The thoughts may sound a bit in Kathmandu. We said that our one desire callow now, but is what we thought and felt was to visit the land of our soldiers. Was it at the time. ever possible that we could be allowed in? “Changed trains. Crowded and dirty. Six weeks passed then out of the blue a Fleas on seat. Orderlies whine, can’t find telegram arrived at our camp: “Expect you standing-room. Hustle them into our large for one month October. Passports follow. first class. Start game of cards. Train stops McLeod, Lt Colonel Acting Head of in night and does not move for five hours” Legation”. We could hardly believe it. Two There is a rumour of an accident ahead, weeks later a heavy envelope arrived from and it proves to be correct. Later we pass Nepal. We spread out the contents on the the ill-fated train, leaning on a curve, the mess-table: passports, hand written on rice- middle coaches telescoped, still uncleared. paper and two pages of closely-typed Not a good sight, the driver drunk. Moving instructions strictly to be followed by us on on: “We reach Raxaul, railhead for the 25 our journey. miles of Nepal’s little narrow gauge Our old Commanding Officer was quite railway, greeted by the Overseer. Begin to envious but said we could take our annual feel important. Inside Nepal, still hot and month’s leave. We could also take two dusty, but plenty Gurkha faces around. To riflemen each to act as orderlies. There the well built Legation Rest-House, hot tin were instructions about dress. Having bath with Wrights Coal Tar soap”. 22 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 23 We rise early on the 24th September and With ten miles behind us, five more to board the little train in the VIP carriage to go, we halt and buy a large meal of rice journey through depressing thick Terai and milk and eggs. Refreshed after a quick jungle. At the first stop a near-naked swim in the river we press on to the top of ascetic looking Indian Sadhu gets in and the Chandragiri Pass and see the sunlit Royals and I fall silent. Is he allowed in valley of Kathmandu spread out below, as here? We wonder. He surveys us somewhat seen by pilgrims through the ages. condescendingly, then in precise English he For some reason, my staccato entry wants to know what we are doing here. He reads: “Over the Chandragiri - first view of starts talking to me about philosophy and the valley – it looks OK”. higher thought. Royals looks out of the Royals and I race ahead down a short window in disdain. cut to a village 2000 feet below at the edge I drive the engine for the last stage to of the valley. Waiting there is a small group railhead at Amlekganj. Amlekganj! Hotter of Legation staff and the old Legation car, than India with a milling crowd scrambling a big black Buick, Chandrabahadur the towards the bus, we are led by our Sadhu, driver, and the Mukhya. loin cloth flying. No first class for him The Mukhya is part of what would now! We get the two front seats, reserved nowadays be called the Secret Service. He at 2 Rupees each. My notes say: “Well was to be with us everywhere we went made metal road. Imperceptibly going over the next few weeks (or nearly higher and higher, and cooler. Rippling everywhere). river, clear blue water. Nepal at last?” We As we are driven, first along a rough pass through the tunnel at Churia, where track and then a finely metalled road, we 130 years earlier General Ochterlony began wonder once again that this enormous car his night march against the flanks of the must have been carried in on men’s backs Nepalese Army. over the two passes – together with 200 Arriving at Bhimpedi, the end of the other vehicles over the years, plus two road, a friendly crowd helps our ten steamrollers, electric lamp posts etc. sturdy coolies to load. A fifteen year old We pass through villages of red brick youth shoulders my 80lb tin trunk. We see the famous ropeway ahead, and, 1500 feet above, Sisagarhi fort which, garrisoned by Nepalese soldiers, we reach at nightfall after a stiff climb. Eat. Sleep like logs. 25th September. A grand day. Rise at 6am, destination Kathmandu. There are fifteen miles and two mountain passes on the only track that leads to the secluded valley. Within the hour we are at the top of The British Legation car, a Buick, awaits the first pass, Chisapani Garhi, with a the arrival of the party. distant view of the great snow mountains, the land we have heard about for the last houses surrounded by fields heavy with four years. Along the bank of another golden autumn corn; then past pagodas, rippling river, we are now passing people temples, white palaces and mansions. As all the time, mainly carrying loads, even the streets become narrower the appearance the young girls. The girls, they are pretty! of the brick and timber houses remind us The orderlies dawdle. of medieval England, with their upper 23 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 24 floors protruding into the street. archaeology at our age. All we wanted was We arrive in the Legation compound – a to see the hills and the people and the little bit of England. We are just unpacking villages. Nevertheless, we had a good time. when the entire foreign population arrives Always in attendance, quietly watching – Colonel McLeod the acting Minister and our every move was the Mukhya. His role Envoy Plenipotentiary, and Mrs McLeod was to see that we came to no harm, that and, somewhat to our chagrin, two other we did no harm, that we did not meet young British Officers who, friends of the undesirable people and that we did not family, have come for a few days only. desecrate the holy places. He did not We are invited to dinner. The McLeods become a close friend; there was strict have been good to us. He has organised protocol in those days, but he became a five days of sightseeing to cover every good companion. temple, significant building and historical Except in crowded markets and bazaars, site; and she has put flowers in our rooms. Novel for us, the Rest House has stairs, bedrooms, and sprung beds. We are happy, but the orderlies are not. Darkness is coming down, they have all our kit to unpack, and they can find only a damp outhouse to sleep in. Nor can they get any food. “Things are different here” says Kesarman, “Caste rules. We can only eat in certain places”. I say: “But you are soldiers. This sort of thing does not happen in the Battalion”, “What!” he exclaims “Sahib, you could not find a more holy place than this! You do not know how careful we have to be”. We were to remember these words later. The four of The steam engine at Amlekganj. them are miserable for a time; then we tell them to sleep in the downstairs room for the the streets seemed quiet and, compared night. Suddenly they are cheerful again, with India, cleaner. Everyone walked, unpacking and shifting the furniture. moving slowly out of the way to stare at Royals and I hurriedly change into the occasional approach of a car. uniform and walk across to dinner with the Wherever we went, as soon as we got McLeods. We hear stories about life in the out of the Legation car, a crowd of a valley and feel contented and relaxed, a hundred or so silent people formed behind small community isolated in a strange land us. Some would whisper to the orderlies: over the mountains; but a welcoming “Who are they? Where do they come friendly land. Late to bed, dog tired. from?” It was a bit of a strain at times. The next seven days were of continuous Occasionally Royals, who was big and sightseeing. You would be bored to know boisterous, would wink at me and we how we looked at temples, visited Patan, would spin round and speak to them in our Bhatagaon or Bhaktapur and gazed at rough Gurkhali. Occasionally a more carvings, statues and palaces since now educated bystander would reply to us in they are well known and even ‘world Hindustani, which for some reason always heritage sites’. To tell the truth, we were irritated us. not all that interested in temples and One day that has stayed in my mind 24 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 25 forever was our first sight of Bodhnath, the and were ushered into a throne room where massive Buddhist pagoda of the all-seeing the tall stately figure of the Maharajah was eyes. We had hoped to see the venerated standing. He was unsmiling, yet seemed Cheeni Lama there but he was praying. pleased to see us. I felt at ease. He sat down, Instead, stretched out on the grassy bank three officers on either side, and opened the enjoying a picnic, were the two other conversation. “Are you enjoying your stay? visitors on their last day. The scene was How long have you been in the Army?” and idyllic. My notes say: “Lunch on the downs so on. Finally I felt emboldened to speak. – circle of mountains surround the valley – “Your Highness, our wish has long been to crops ripening in the fields – well built see the land and villages of our men. Would cottages – contrast of richness and poverty it be possible to go walking out of the – hard working sturdy people, but very Valley for a few days?” “But how would poor.” you eat and sleep” he said. “We would eat An Edwardian visitor described the rice” we replied. “You eat rice!” he scene thus: “Its main feature is the great exclaimed. “Bhat khanchha?” pair of eyes, which gaze serenely over the We told him we did and he beckoned and smiling fields of the Valley, as they have done for a thousand years and more. Before those impassive eyes had passed the ebb and flow of the country’s history, tribal battles, alien horsemen trampling down the golden grain growing up to its very wall. To us, from the outside world of the twentieth century, the calm eyes seem to regard us with a mild supercilious stare, an incident in the passage of time. We, on our part, endeavour to read some story on this Jimmy Evans and his party at the legation. inscrutable mask”. I went back a few years ago. Look at it spoke to one of his courtiers, who crouched now. forward bending low. “We shall see” he said We had planned to break the mould of with a smile “Meanwhile you must attend sightseeing, and go to the furthest place the big Dashera parade tomorrow”. allowed, Nagarkot, on the edge of the The parade was on the afternoon of the valley. But in the evening everything next day. We pressed our uniforms again changed. Colonel McLeod sent a message and followed the Minister’s car in a small to say that His Highness the Maharajah, Austin 7. Over ten thousand troops were the Teen Sirkar, would be pleased to have drawn up in serried ranks on the vast us visit him at 4pm next day. It was a rare Maidan, known as the Tundikhel. Under honour, and quite unexpected. the 400 year old Pepal tree in the centre, Promptly at 3.30pm the next day we were thirty Army Generals were gathered. The taken by car by Mirsuba Prakat Man Sing Maharajah arrived in a Daimler with a OBE, the Liaison Officer to the British cavalry escort and, four outriders on brand Mission. The big vehicle drove slowly, new auto-cycles. One was backfiring passers-by gave a deep salaam in case we badly! The procession moved slowly round were important and as we approached the the massed troops. Silence fell, there were Singha Durbar it surged forward to go a few shy cheers as a coach approached in through the gates at precisely 4 o’clock. which was the King himself, His Majesty With some trepidation we mounted the steps King Tribhuvan, who only appeared once a 25 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 26 year. The Generals bowed to the ground. pigeon overhead, Harkarman asked if he We saluted. We were not allowed to speak cold take my shotgun while we rested. He to him, nor he to us. wandered off for over an hour then The stocky figure of a General then suddenly there was a loud bang from only strode to the centre and called out the a few yards away, and seven plump order, “From the centre seven rounds, fire!” “parewa” tumbled down from the tree There was a pause then suddenly from the above. centre the soldiers started firing. A thunder One stormy night on the floor of a of sound rolled round the ranks until it met in the centre again, and all hell was let loose as the mountain guns opened fire. Clouds of acrid smoke billowed across the Tundikhel, as the echoes rolled across the Valley. Then it was all over. Kathmandu was a place of contrasts and for us also. Four hours after the magnificent parade found Royals and I drinking raksi in the Jemardarni’s humble hotel in the depths of the bazaar. We had Nepali clothes made for us. Determined to Bodnath as it was in 1946. see other aspects of the country, I am now ashamed to say we had slipped out of the headman’s house, we found it easy to believe Legation compound at night. We fondly that strange forces exist in the high thought no-one knew, but Colonel McLeod mountains. While sipping rice-beer with the said later that Teen Sirkar knew everything. villagers in the light of an oil lamp, one of Perhaps he forgave us, for permission the men said they could show us a spirit. A came for us to go over the mountains in No man stood up and began to hum softly and 1 West, and we set off, first stop the Legation his eyes glazed over and he trembled Rest House at Kakani. It was said you could uncontrollably. The onlookers were also sometimes see Mount Everest from there. humming as the man stiffened and as if in a Rising before dawn, grasping our Kodak box trance began jerking upwards. His knees camera, we got a brief glimpse of didn’t bend. In frenzy, eyes staring, he was Sagarmarta, a rare sight in those days. propelled upwards. His head banged on the There follows five days leisurely walking low rafters. Three villagers leapt up and tried and bivouacking down the Nawakot and the to hold him down. Only gradually did he Trisuli Rivers, where we fondly believed no subside, and collapse in a heap in the corner. foreigners had ever set foot before – except “The spirits come close to earth in the an invading Chinese Army, which was mountains” said Kesarman. Royals and I, turned back when they reached Trisuli. Our full of beer, were soon asleep in our valises. men were enjoying it greatly, relaxed and It was nearly all over. We walked back chatting up the girls in every village. Back to Kathmandu and reported to Colonel in the Battalion we led them in a paternal McLeod, but there was one more surprise. way. Here they felt responsible for us, Maharajah Padma invited us to see the film teaching us about the customs and taboos ‘Henry V’ starring Laurence Olivier, in the of the villages. We fed in travellers’ tea- drawing-room of the palace. The film had shops, and halted to shoot for the pot and only just been released in London. When it cook a meal. Once, when I had failed to finished we clicked our heels to say shoot a single bird from a flock of wood goodbye. He gave us each a kukri which I 26 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 27 have treasured ever since. I wrote a formal of the cockerel, rice, and some herbs and, letter of thanks and was surprised to with an incantation, took it to the bedside receive a written reply. and commanded Harkarman “Eat” “Khao”. Maharajah Padma was a good man. In Very slowly Harkarman opened his lips. his short reign, in my opinion, he put “Eat it all” said the old man. He explained forward the first tentative reforms that that Harkarman must have unknowingly would lead to democracy in Nepal. done something wrong or offended the gods The holiday was over; we looked back in Kathmandu. “He will be all right now. to the hills with nostalgia. It was the best That will be ten Rupees”. Harkarman came holiday I’d ever had. back to life, and recovered completely, to There is a twist at the end of the tale. The leave the Army after Independence. Battalion was posted to the North West Royals and I swore we would return and Frontier. When we got there I heard that do a long trek one day. We planned we Harkarman Rai had been left behind in would leave the Army and start a transport hospital, dangerously ill. Henry Burrows, company when Nepal opened up more. with the rear party takes up the story. He Things did not work out that way. Derek went to see Harkarman who was in a coma Royals became a tea planter in Darjeeling. and could not speak,. The doctors could find He finished there as the last remaining no cause. Subedar Major Agam who was British manager. He was awarded the OBE with Burrows, said we must call in a for his good work in the area. My path led Nepalese healer. A wizened old man arrived, elsewhere. I got back to Kathmandu strode briskly to the bedside, took one look eventually on many business visits, but we and said “I want a live cockerel and some never did make that long trek together. rice”. He lit a fire on the grass outside the hospital and cooked a portion of the blood 27 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 28 THE ESTHER BENJAMINS TRUST - AN UPDATE By Philip Holmes It is a reflection of the world attitude the Nepal counterpart of the Trust, based in towards circuses that many people now Kathmandu, where Director, Philip Holmes object to their existence; not just because lives and works. they are an anachronistic form of Since its inception, EBT-N has worked ‘entertainment’ but on the grounds of their tirelessly with a partner organisation, the inhumane treatment of animals. Countries Nepal Child Welfare Foundation (NCWF), all over the globe have made great strides in to offer freedom and refuge to some of the protecting the interests of the creatures neediest children in Nepal. In addition to likely to be exposed to a life in the circus, rescuing girls from circuses – a very with many implementing legislation to dangerous activity – the Trust offers respite prohibit the use of certain species of animal. for children who would otherwise be Indeed, India is one such country to have forced to live with their convict parents in banned the use of certain animals in its jail, as well as to street children. circuses, bowing to international pressure Wherever possible, rescued children are from political and animal welfare activists. reunited with their families, but where this Unfortunately, this ban has not been is not practicable the Trust strives to extended to the use of children – many of provide them with a loving and safe whom are the innocent victims of the environment in which they can enjoy their thriving child trafficking industry in the childhood. EBT-N prioritises education and sub-continent. the acquisition of vocational skills in the Children – predominantly young girls belief that they can help young people to from the age of five upwards – are taken break free from the clutches of poverty. from neighbouring Nepal, with many The younger children are introduced into opportunist traffickers taking advantage of the education system, while the older girls the country’s abject poverty to exploit are encouraged to develop the skills that children and their families, and in the will support them in adult life. process subject young girls to lives of We place great emphasis in empowering despair in India’s big circuses. These people to be the agents of their own children are mentally, physically and development, in the hope that they will sometimes sexually abused by circus then have the freedom to choose their own masters whose only goal is lining their own path in life. pockets. One example of this is the Trust’s thriving The Esther Benjamins Trust has mosaic-making school. The students were established itself at the forefront of the originally offered classes in the creative fight against this atrocious industry to help subject as a form of catharsis. It enabled give Nepali girls their childhood back. Set them to express themselves individually and up in 1999 by Lt Col (Retd) Philip Holmes have fun in the process. When Philip in memory of his wife who took her own Holmes realised that some of the girls had a life in the same year through her despair at particular aptitude for mosaic making, he childlessness, the Trust has grown to created a full-time workshop in his become a recognised authority on child Kathmandu home for them to use. trafficking in Nepal. It is now a leading Now, some of the students are producing registered charity that works exclusively bespoke mosaics commissioned by for disadvantaged and stigmatised prominent individuals from Nepal and the Nepalese children and young people. The UK, making their own income through Esther Benjamins Trust – Nepal (EBT-N) is something they love. They take full 28 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 29 responsibility for their work, with the Trust (The work of the EBT was featured in providing a supportive framework which More4 News following the rescue of 20 allows them to flourish. The artists receive Nepalese girls (the youngest only 10 a salary, and as the business grows will years old) from ‘a notoriously abusive help to decide its future direction. Any circus’in India. A full report appeared in surplus generated by the commissioning of the ‘Daily Telegraph’ in the summer. The mosaics is directed to the Circus Children rescue was a dangerous proposition in a Project, which seeks to provide other lawless part of Uttar Pradesh as the vulnerable children with similar circus had links with the local police and opportunities. enjoyed some protection as a result. The The Esther Benjamins Trust now has rescuers had to run the gauntlet of thugs refuges in Godawari, Bhairahawa and in their efforts to release the girls. In the Hetauda, and also supports a day centre for first place their parents are either deaf and disabled children in Bhairahawa. deceived by those seeking girls for this If you would like to help us to continue work or sometimes wish to off load to make a difference to the lives of these unwanted children. The girls undergo marginalised young people, please visit our painful and abusive training and website or contact us at the addresses listed treatment. These girls are nowbeing below to which donations may be sent. cared for by the EBT in Nepal. Ed.) The Esther Benjamins Trust Third floor 2 Cloth Court London EC1A 7LS www.ebtrust.org.uk The Royal Society for Asian Affairs Interested in Asia? The Society’s aim is to promote greater knowledge and understanding of the countries of Asia, present and recent past, from the Near East to the Pacific Rim. We are an active and friendly organisation with fortnightly lecture meetings in London, social functions, overseas tours at roughly annual intervals, thrice-yearly publication of a much respected Journal Asian Affairs, a library of over 5000 books for members’ use and an archive collection whose catalogue is accessible via our website. There is a Junior Members’ Section for under 25 year olds and the Society administers the annual Sir Peter Holmes Memorial Award to encourage young people aged 18-25 to travel with purpose in Asia. Membership enquiries are invited to: The Secretary, RSAA, 2 Belgrave Square, London SW1X 8PJ Telephone: +44(0)20-7235 5122 Fax: +44(0)20-7259 6771 Email: [email protected] Website: www.rsaa.org.uk 29 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 30 cl> + + , --.,g" Esther ,.111'11 Benjamins 30 cl> 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 31 w. --...... The Brilain-:Nepal OtOlogy SeMoe A CI\ilt~~ dOOicaIoo 10 Iho Pfe'iO~~ ard iT_,, ~ '" CIooll\O$$iI, N_ BRINOS 2 We~ Ao~cI Gu IdtOl'cI Suney GiJ1Z1\U 31 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 32 THE TOM HUGHES FAMILY TRUST - AN UPDATE By Harish Karki Below is an extract from David Bannister’s opportunity of visiting many of Tom’s July 2007 newsletter: family and friends in the Warrington area. The family had enjoyed their 2006 family Martyn Powell (a member of the Society. Christmas together in Dharan and the Ed) managed a very much disrupted visit to younger boys had been overjoyed to receive the family, also in late February 2006, and small gifts from the UK. However it soon this was very much appreciated by all. Due became apparent that several larger parcels to the ongoing strikes he had to spend his had not been delivered and were held in the final night in Biratnagar, but managed to get BFPO postal system in Kathmandu. Despite the last flight out to Kathmandu before the several attempts to effect delivery the family airport was forced to close. was informed that, unless the parcels were Life in Dharan itself is generally quieter collected from the BFPO office in now that the Maoists are more involved in Kathmandu they would be returned to the local politics but this has had mixed UK. Ramesh, one of the elder brothers who blessings for the family. In the family’s live in the city, recovered them to his home favour, Meharman was able to complete the and Meharman’s wife, Anita, was despatched citizenship registration for several of the on the overnight bus to collect them. The idea boys when the Maoists threatened violence was that she also took a couple of days break to the registration officials if they did not in Kathmandu before returning. speed up the process for the many thousands In the event, on the afternoon that Anita who were without documentation to prove left Dharan there were political their parentage and place of birth. (Several demonstrations and riots across the Terai and of Tom’s boys fell into this category for several buses on the main East-West obvious reasons). However, our biggest Highway to Kathmandu were torched and concern over the past few months has been four people killed. Anita’s bus was stopped the threat of compulsory occupation of and the occupants forced to run for their Tom’s house and land so that a new bus lives before their bus too was set on fire. terminus can be built on the site. In this, Anita lost all of her possessions in the panic several ‘friends’ sought to find favour with including her handbag containing cash and local government officials by pointing out personal items. She sought shelter in a local that the family could easily be moved to a village for two days before being helped by plot of land out of the Bazaar with minimal, the police to reach Hetauda, a small town on if any, compensation being offered. This has the Highway. She spent three more nights caused considerable anxiety to Meharman there because of further troubles before and the others living at home, who have finally making it to Kathmandu on the sixth been accosted regularly by several day, with no money and only the clothes that neighbours who see the opportunity for she stood up in. Luckily she was able to stay opening small but very profitable businesses with Ramesh and his wife, Rena, although it in their own properties. However, in line was a further three weeks before the troubles with Tom’s wish to gift the property to quietened enough for her to attempt the another charity once the existing family return journey, laden with the Christmas members had no further use for the house, presents and other mail. During Anita’s stay, we have managed to complete the transfer of Ramesh was fortunate enough to be able to the title of the property from Ranjitsing Rai, travel to the UK for a very short visit in late who held it on Tom’s behalf, to the Nepal February. Rena, who works for Gulf Air, Nazareth Society, a Catholic charity, who was able to purchase a very much own and run several hospitals and (Navjyoti) discounted ticket allowing Ramesh the schools throughout Nepal. Without the 32 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 33 untiring help of Ranjit we would never have to resolve our postal problems but it soon been able to complete the transfer in the face became apparent that we are to some degree of such strong opposition. victims of others’ misdeeds. With so many It is our hope that the transfer has now ex-Gurkha soldiers resident in the UK, the secured the future for the family in Naya BFPO system was being swamped by people Jiwan Ghar, as the Tom Hughes Family sending large items back to relatives in Trust in UK has entered into an agreement Nepal, by-passing Nepalese customs. A with the Nepal Nazareth Society to lease- MOD audit had disclosed over 80% of the back the house and the major part of the mail was unauthorised.As a consequence all land for the next twenty years during which non-entitled mail has been banned, including time we will build a smaller property on the us. I have however been assured that letters site to house the disabled boys. The smaller only will be accepted in the short term, house and the land, which will include the although this will be curtailed if further cemetery garden, will be leased back for 99 abuses of the BFPO system are uncovered. years. It is the Nepal Nazareth Society’s wish to be able to build a small school on After Note: part of the site within the next few years and RANJIT SINGH RAI a larger school once the occupation of the David writes: main house is no longer required. We hope I have recently heard by telephone from and pray that now the transfer is complete Meharman that Ranjit had a fall from a ladder the agitation for the family will die down. last week and was admitted to BPKIHS in Life for the whole family continues with Dharan with three fractured ribs and a head as much normality as the general situation injury (severe concussion). He has since been allows. In his spare time Meharman has transferred to a hospital in Siliguri for EEG continued to help build their new church. scan and other neurological tests. He is The Zion Methodist Church had been conscious and receiving family visitors when housed in temporary accommodation since it possible, but is somewhat confused. was established some years ago but the PS for Gerry. This is the same Ranjit as purchase of land had enabled a new church you remembered from your time in to be built. The main church building and Dharan. (1962/63. Ed.) He finally retired as school room has been completed and a the BMH Administrator and was awarded kitchen is now being added. It is incredible both the MBE and OStJ (Order of St John). that in thirty years the situation has changed Prior to this incident, Ranjit was in robust from persecution of Nepali Christians to one health, belying his 82 years. He has ‘held’ where many new churches are being built. all of Tom’s homes in his name since 1971 There are forty in Dharan! and has maintained a keen interest in the During the Easter period I was able to welfare of the family throughout the past travel out to Dharan again and spent a very thirty-six years. Since Tom’s death he has enjoyable ten days at the house. It was nice been a pillar of strength for the family and to see them all again in such good spirits. It has been untiring in his efforts to effect the was also nice to meet again with Ranjitsing transfer of the land and property according Rai and it was during this time that I to Tom’s wishes. I am sure that many of managed to get the lease-back agreements your ex-Dharan readers will remember him. signed and instigated some building and He continues to take an active part in maintenance work on the house, including Dharan affairs and is a Trustee of the Don the building of a shower room with solar- Boscoe orphanage in the Bazaar as well as heated water, the refurbishment of the toilets an advisor to the Navjyoti School. and washroom and additional guttering to (November 2007: David wrote to say that stop wind-blown rain entering the house Ranjit had fully recovered although it took during the monsoon. In Kathmandu I hoped him sometime to ‘clear his head’. Ed.) 33 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 34 THE YETI NEPALI ASSOCIATION BORN IN LONDON By Harish Karki (Harish Karki wrote about the start of the 60:40 ratio student to non-student Nepalese restaurant industry in UK in the representatives. Within a few years, this last edition of the journal. In this article was revised and an agreement was he writes of his part in the formation of reached to reverse the ratio in favour of a the Yeti Association. Ed) majority of non-student representation, and the constitution was later amended to The Yet Association was established in reflect this. 1960 and we are the founding Nepalese Mr Ishwar Manandhar and I have been association in the United Kingdom. Since associated with the Yeti Association for a our establishment our aims have considerable time. The meetings were remained constant. They are to serve as a often held at either the Natraj Restaurant forum for a Nepalese social and cultural in Charlotte Street or at my humble abode base, therefore providing and in Hanover Steps, St Georges Field W2. strengthening our community. The Himalayan Yeti Association The Yeti Association was originally (HYA) was founded shortly after the set up by those Nepalese students who London Yeti Association, in Manchester, were given scholarship opportunities to provide an extended hand to those backed by the British Council. At that Nepalese located further north. After time the association was in its infancy many discussions it was agreed that this and, had it not been for the perseverance would remain a branch of the Yeti and forethought of those individuals, the Association albeit known as the Nepalese community, which Himalayan Yeti Association. encompasses all the cultural and social It was part of our dream and ambition activities we have today, would not be in to provide further branches throughout existence now. the UK in order to strengthen ties and When Mr. Manandhar and I first learnt encourage unity for the Nepalese living of the Nepalese association and its lapsed away from Nepal. period of activities we made various Part of the appeal of the Yeti enquiries of the Royal Nepalese Embassy Association was that we were able to and the British Council (BC) based at 10 identify the need to find specific services Spring Gardens in London SW1. We such as a Kosheli Cultural Group (which made it our duty to revamp the Nepalese was established in 1986); they would Association and to drum up support and help to entertain the growing Nepalese interest for the new influx of Nepali community and offer a platform for these families and individuals arriving in the families to showcase the talent of the new UK. After various meetings were held up coming second generation of Nepalese with the BC and the founding students, in the UK. This highly motivated group they informed the group that, whilst they was set up by Mr. Madhan Thapa. were still interested in the Yeti The pressures of trying to provide Association, it would become difficult for support and information to a growing them to remain as actively involved as Nepalese community took its toll. Both before. A resolution was passed to form a Ishwar Manandhar and I had to promote board to run the association based on a the work of the Yeti Association, attend 34 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 35 and brief the Nepalese Ambassador, as come into fruition. We urged the Nepalese well as attending functions held at the community to support the cause as embassy, trying to earn a living as generously as possible and I still believe restaurateurs whilst endeavouring to that this will happen in the not too distant share what time was left with our own future and within our life times. families. Our beloved and dearly departed This indeed was in those days a long Crown Prince Birendra Bir Bikram Shah and drawn out affair as all Yeti minute Dev (later His Majesty King Birendra Bir records were then stored at the embassy Bikram Shah Dev) whilst studying at and everything had to be cascaded for the Eton, graciously accepted our invitation information of the Ambassador. to become our patron. We felt that with It is important to note that during the this support, the Yeti Association could birth of the Yeti Association in London, achieve the status and growth it deserved. the Britain Nepal Society (BNS) were If it had not been for this renewed also beginning to draw closer ties with interest and patronage the Yeti Nepal through the shared common Association would probably have interests of its members. These collapsed. It was though the sheer individuals had a love and deep respect determination that both Ishwar Manadhar for Nepal, the Gurkhas and all the Nepali and I managed to lift the Yeti from the traditions. At every AGM held by the ashes. BNS, the chairman would invite the Yeti After a number of years Ishwar Association president to speak to the Manandhar and I felt that it was time to members and tell the meeting what the handover to a new team to provide much- Association had been doing during the needed new blood and a new perspective. year. It was agreed that Dr. Dhital would Here I would like to mention some continue to carry the torch to better and details of the Nepalese students who stronger days. The Yeti Association had studied in the UK under the Colombo been an onerous task, both busy and Plan. This plan monitored students fulfilling. I had begun acting as secretary studying, receiving training and going on / board member to eventually bearing the to post graduate studies. The subjects weight and responsibility of President. I studied included highway engineering, knew that for the longer term it was time transport planning, co-operatives, for a change and was grateful that Dr education and teacher training, jute and Rhagav Dhital was able to takeover the timber technology, land survey, most Association. medical related subjects and civil This is our oldest historical and government. These students normally cultural association which we are hoping spent from 3 months to five years will become the pillar / cornerstone of training and qualifying from British our lives in the UK. We must preserve universities and institutes. our Nepalese identity and remain proud The support received from the BNS of our heritage through open and has ensured a very happy and firm challenging discussions and constant relationship. education. The dream of having a Yeti Nepali House was always a theme running throughout these years and it is still yet to 35 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 36 + + I " ," ...' r __ I _r_ _ I ' ~i""'" _ ~_ I Website : www.tigermountain.com "Io -'" cNcIuog "'" 7' ('7 ('" • .,.., ,,, _ ...... "" ~ 36 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 37 TFYOU ARI INTERESTED )10, Bhlllall, ~D~ b~!!2,:'~. ~u~t::!I~;O~ia. 1 /lu{in. /mkmrs,,,. Jar'III, K 1Ir1'l/, LI'ru', M nlll," $;II. ,I/"',g"I;I1, ,1/)"II1I111l1r, Nt7'~/. Pllki~'f("', P/,i/ippi"'$, Sri ulllliu, TIulilimd, lid/lnlll & ',Wti', d,t ORIENTAL BIRD CLUB is Ihe org(lIIis(llioll for .1'011 . Run b~' bin] ,,· ~trhnc fur bi ....] " 'Mlchcn, lb" ORC i ~ r""u _, ~d OIL Ih. birtl. of O,,;~"I~ I As b IIno.l lbtir {"n"~n' lIli<}l1. Tb~ OR e Clff~ ... : • (; r.~1 publlnll o n ~ ~ " orlilllil, lh. Journ,l of + ,h~ln Ornithology Q n ' r~ QrlglMI P" Jlf"" on + all ~~ I,.ct ~ of lh~ Qrnll IInlog,\' of 11w. • rglOll 3",1 'wo lo;sues of BirdiJrg.·1SJA , our lOp leal bullctln la,-khly lllum'ated In co lour wllb nlan)" I'fgul:ir.~ wdl a. , ."cbl r"aln,"s, ar~ I' ubll, h." annuall," • L'S(', frlenlll)" 'nbstl', nu nnlnll lma!:t d MlIb~ S f. and U';Ocla lfd . mall dl ~c w;lon I!rQul'. JOIN TilE 08(' NOW l-\nnu31:\'lemlll'rship tu.~L~J uSI £1.'\ 8irding IIsio with OBe 37 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 38 FROM THE EDITOR’S IN-TRAY Honours and Awards Indian Government into looking to extend Dr Rhagav Dhital has been awarded an the Indian rail system to Nepal. They honorary OBE for his services to Anglo – report that links to Nepalganj, Bhairawa, Nepali relations. He was presented with Bardibas, Biratnagar and Kakarvitta are his award by Dr Kim Howells MP, under consideration. This may hail the Minister of State for Foreign and increase from the narrow gauge or choti Commonwealth Affairs at the FCO on line to broad gauge. Some members will 19th June 2007. remember the hassle associated with Colonel David Hayes, Colonel Brigade changing from broad to narrow gauge at of Gurkhas, was made a CBE in the Katihar Junction on the trip from Calcutta Queen’s Birthday Honours in recognition to Jogbani, en route to Dharan. of his work in establishing the new terms and conditions of service for the Brigade Village Twinning of Gurkhas. This has been a long term The villages of Wimbish and Debden in project and the award recognises the work Essex have set up a twinning arrangement that he and his team have carried out over with the largely Gurung village of Tang the last few years. Colonel Hayes, a Ting. Tang Ting is situated further up the member of the Society, addressed valley from Siklis (another famous Gurung members at the October meeting. village from where many men have served in the Brigade of Gurkhas and the home of The King Mahendra UK Trust for the late Dr Chandra Gurung). This has Nature Conservation been brought about through the Gurkha The King Mahendra UK Trust for Nature soldiers serving with 33 Engineer Conservation (KMUKTNC) has changed its Regiment (EOD) which is located in title to ‘The UK Trust for Nature Carver Barracks, Wimbish, near Saffron Conservation in Nepal’ (UKTNCN). This is Walden. Children of the soldiers attend the in line with changes made by the Nepalese local school so there are good links with government to the parent trust, the King the local community. The Nepalese Charge Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation d’Affaires, Mr Dipendra Pratap Bista (KMTNC). The new title in Nepal is the attended the formal twinning ceremony. National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC). The change in title to the UK trust The Gurkha Museum has been registered with the Charity The Summer Exhibition this year is Commission. The new point of contact for entitled: “60th Anniversary of the start the trust, which will be administered from of the Malayan Campaign” and is being the Zoological Society of London, (ZSL), is held between 9th August and 7th Miss Jane Loveless, a former member of September 2008. the Society’s committee. Wildlife and Conservation Action Regional Reports Koshi Tappu. I visited the Wildlife and The Chinese opened a rail link to Lhasa Wetlands Trust (WWT) site at Welney in last year and there are apparently plans to the Fens on, as it happened, World extend this link towards the Nathu La pass Wetlands Day on 2nd February 2007. In into Sikkim. A report in Himal Southasian talking to one of the young (and indicates that this may have prodded the attractive!) volunteer wardens, I learnt that 38 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 39 WWT had an ongoing project at the Koshi drug still in the system and it will take Tappu Reserve. (See Journal 29 pages 19- time to effect a complete change. 21 for a description of Koshi Tappu [Diclofenac is used by farmers to treat situated above the River Koshi dam. Ed.) cattle as a pain-killing drug. It is the This is a new project which seeks to work presence of diclofenac in the carcases with local communities to help them eaten by vultures that has caused the manage the wetlands outside the reserve to catastrophic decline in population.] The obtain a sustainable livelihood so that they replacement drug, meloxicam, has to be are not forced to exploit fish and other manufactured in quantity and distributed wildlife resources inside the reserve. across the whole area. This will take time. Bird Conservation Nepal (BCN,) with Dr The ongoing vulture crisis in the Indian Hem Sagar Baral, has been trying to help subcontinent. In the last edition of the on a small scale in Nepal with a ‘safe cow’ journal the decline of the vulture was project. This entails purchasing old stock clearly set out. Progress continues but only from farmers which is no longer slowly. So far it has not been possible to productive, and that has not been dosed establish a captive breeding centre in with diclofenac; keeping it until death and Nepal, although plans exist. The breeding then using the untainted (ie no diclofenac) of vultures in the centre in India is proving carcase to feed the vultures. This is all difficult, but since this is the first time that being funded by BCN. Since it has been such a project with vultures has been found that vultures travel further afield attempted the team are learning by than was originally thought, it is not experience. Although the drug diclofenac certain how effective this is likely to be. has been banned and a replacement However it may help to slow the effects in identified, there is still a great deal of the a small area. HIMAL SOUTHASIAN Himal Southasian is a monthly news and current affairs magazine which is published in Kathmandu. Originally it dealt only with Nepal but due to its increasing success it now covers the SAARC / South Asian region. The editors consider this to be a ‘review magazine’ that contains longer and more analytical articles, two of which are reproduced in this edition of the Britain – Nepal Society Journal by kind permission of the editor. www.himalmag.com Subscription: 1 year US$ 40 2 years US$ 72 Mailing address: GPO Box 24393, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: + 977 1 5547279 Fax: + 977 1 5552141 39 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 40 OBITUARIES Major MJ Fuller and also advised the journal editor when Major Martin Fuller died on 19th October asked. Sadly he died before the last of the 2006. He was born in Portsmouth in 1926 4th Gurkha Rifles Association reunions, and enlisted in the Queen’s Royal held at Stoke Poges Golf Club in June Regiment (West Surrey) as an Indian Army 2007 with which he had been so involved Cadet in November 1943. After officer in the detailed planning. training in Mhow, he was commissioned GDB into the 4th Prince of Wales Own Gurkha (I am grateful for permission from Major Rifles in July 1945, serving at their JJ Burlison, editor of the ‘Sirmooree’, the Regimental Centre until posted back to journal of the Sirmoor Club, the 2nd UK. Following the reduction of the post Goorkha Rifles Association, to reproduce war Army and the transfer of 4GR to the an edited version of this obituary that new post-independence Indian Army, he first appeared in the Winter 2006/7 found himself with a regular commission edition. Ed.) in the RASC. In 1950 he was able to return to the Brigade of Gurkhas and Lady Hunt transferred to the 2nd Goorkha Rifles, Lady Hunt, wife of the late Lord Hunt joining 2/2 GR at Ipoh. He held a number died on Sunday 19th March 2006 aged 93. of regimental appointments in Malaya Joy met John Hunt in 1936 when he was before employment as a Ground Liaison home on leave from his regiment, then in Officer (GLO) with the RAF during the India, The King’s Royal Rifle Corps (later Radfan campaign. After a tour of duty as to become The Royal Green Jackets). In the Chief Instructor of the Gurkha Training those days officers were often posted to Depot and a period in the British Embassy, India for several years and a comparatively Kathmandu as Assistant Military Attaché, short leave of 3-4 months to UK was he returned to UK and worked with the usually the only opportunity to find a wife. Brigade of Gurkhas Liaison Officer in Time was of the essence. (This system MOD. On retirement he returned to the continued for officers of the Brigade of Middle East and served as a GLO with the Gurkhas into the 1960s.) They met in the Sultan of Oman’s Air Force but was summer and were married in September. wounded and spent six months in Headley Joy was 23 and John 26. Even at this stage Court on rehabilitation. He next became a in his life John already had considerable Queen’s Messenger from 1972 to 1978. climbing experience in the Alps and the Still not able to settle, he served for a Himalayas. On the other hand Joy had no further three years as a contract officer such experience neither had she been with the Royal Brunei Armed Forces, further a field than her Aunt’s cottage in eventually retiring after some thirty-eight Devon, although she was no mean athlete years service. In retirement he lived in having competed in tennis at county and Forestside in Sussex. He was for many Wimbledon standard. Her honeymoon was years secretary of the 4th Gurkha Rifles spent rock climbing in the Lake District Association. He had a good memory of the and five weeks after being married she was Brigade of Gurkhas and was often on her way to India on an ocean liner. Her consulted by John Masters (late 4GR) and first home was in Rangoon where she John Cross on points of detail for their discovered her life-long interest in books. He was a member of the Society gardening. She was excited to see the 40 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 41 tropical trees and plants that grew there. anniversary visits to Nepal and treks John did not pursue the usual military between Darjeeling and Solu Khumbu. pursuits such as polo but with Joy would She had legendary energy, enthusiasm and go bird watching and butterfly collecting. stamina. A prime example was on the 40th In 1937 John got leave to go on another anniversary trek in 1993. Lord Hunt, then expedition, this time to explore the eastern aged 83, was happy to fly to Lukla with side of Kanchenjunga. Joy went with the his daughter Prue but Joy insisted on team and from the base camp at the foot of walking in with the main group from Jiri the Zemu glacier she and John climbed to to Lukla. She was determined not to hold 21,300 feet on Sugar Loaf. It was here the group up and was always first to arrive with startling suddenness that the entire at the campsites and led the way into slope that they had just climbed broke Lukla. Whilst visiting Australia, at the age away in wind-slab avalanche and of 87, she had to be restrained from thundered down to the glacier below with attempting to climb Ayers Rock. terrifying speed. Joy recorded in her diary, Throughout her long and active life she “I was too astonished to be terrified”. John gave unfailing support to her husband and later recalled that this was one of his most family and at the same time obtained so providential escapes in fifty years of much fulfilment in all her travels and climbing. At this stage the wind and cold activities. were unbearable and they turned back less (I am grateful to Mrs Sally Nesbitt, than 300 feet from the top. That night John Lady Hunt’s daughter, and Mr George wrote in his diary, “Joy has done Band for providing the information for this amazingly well”. It was clear that as a piece. Ed.) natural athlete Joy had taken to climbing like a duck to water. Her balance, Mr ARH Kellas CMG coordination and fitness developed through Mr Arthur Kellas died in Edinburgh on 6th tennis made her a more talented rock March 2007 aged 91. He was educated in climber than John who relied on his huge Scotland at Aberdeen Grammar School hands, brute strength and determination and Aberdeen and Oxford Universities. He rather than delicate footwork. She went on also attended the Ecole des Sciences to become an exceptional climber and Politique in Paris. He joined the mountaineer in her own right. John Hunt diplomatic service in 1939 just prior to the retired from the Army after 28 years start of World War II, but then volunteered service and then began his work with the for the armed services and was Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Scheme. commissioned into The Border Regiment. Whilst this enabled Joy to have a more He served in the Parachute Regiment and settled life, their four daughters took part in special operations in North notwithstanding, she was able to travel Africa and Greece. He was twice with her husband as his work took him to mentioned in despatches. He returned to many places around the world. Mountains the diplomatic service and served in and adventurous travel amongst friends Teheran 1944 to 1947. His subsequent and family became her passion. Her travels career was very much concerned with the took her to places from the Himalayas to Middle East, serving in Cairo (1954 – 52), the Sinai desert to the jungles of Borneo. Baghdad (1954 – 58) and counsellor in She climbed and skied in the Alps and Teheran (1958 – 62). He attended the took part in expeditions to Greenland, the Imperial Defence College course in Polish Tatra and the Pindus mountains in 1962/64 which was followed by a tour as Greece. There were of course the Everest Consul General in Tel Aviv. He was 41 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 42 appointed ambassador to Nepal in 1966 Chancery in Baghdad. He and Bridget until 1970. This was followed by a return lived in an old Turkish house on the banks to the Middle East as ambassador to the of the River Tigris with orange and Yemen (1972 – 74) and his final pomegranate trees and date palms in the appointment was as High Commissioner to garden. Their neighbours were the Tanzania. In his retirement he took up the archaeologist Max Mallowan and his wife post as President of the Society from Lord Agatha Christie, with whom they became Hunt, a position he held until 1979 when great friends. Arthur would often canoe he moved to Scotland, living for much of down the river to the embassy and on one the time on the remote Ardnamurchan occasion he and Bridget floated down to peninsula. Sir Patrick Moberly, at the the military attaché’s garden on inflated memorial service for Arthur, highlighted inner tubes. Arthur took the opportunity to Arthur’s passion for travel to reach remote travel to the Kurdish areas and to the places where he met shepherds, soldiers, wetlands in the south inhabited by the tribesmen, village elders, as well as Marsh Arabs. Mrs Helen Hickey, wife of provincial governors and local mayors. He the military attaché, Lt Col Hickey, learnt to speak Persian fluently from his remembers their time in Kathmandu when first posting to Persia in 1944 as Iran was Arthur was ambassador there. She writes: then known. He climbed in the mountains “In the sixties in Kathmandu, except for there which rather mystified the local the visits of theatrical companies arranged population. This early experience fitted by the British Council, there was little him for the post of Oriental Counsellor in European entertainment so people made Tehran later in his career. It was in Tehran their own. There was amazing talent that he met his future wife, Bridget, the amongst the small diplomatic and local then ambassador’s daughter, whom he British community. The Kellas’ house was married in 1952. At this time amateur the scene of wonderful parties and dramatics were popular amongst the entertainment, evenings of poetic Iranian middle class and Bridget with recitations, music, singers and magicians. other British residents were asked to There were many gatherings of the perform at the Shah’s Palace. After a Nepalese Royal family and military and posting to Finland, Arthur returned to the civilian dignitaries. With few embassies in Middle East, this time to Egypt, as the Kathmandu at that time it was possible for Embassy’s press attaché. As Sir Patrick the British to maintain their special commented, Arthur had the ‘distinction’ of friendship with the Nepalese and this being declared persona non grata by the included the great honour of having Their Egyptian government. Colonel Nasser had Majesties the King and Queen to dinner. given a newspaper interview amounting to Nepal was definitely the right country for a tirade against British imperialism. Local the Kellas family as they were all keen correspondents clamoured all day for walkers and went for wonderful treks in comment from the Embassy, Arthur as the the mountains.” There was already a press attaché initially declined to family connection with the Himalayas. His comment. However in the end in uncle, Dr Alexander Kellas, has been exasperation he quoted an Arab saying; described as one of the finest exploratory “The dogs may bark but the caravan Himalayan mountaineers. He was the first moves on.” This was taken as an insult and person to apply state of the art physiology led him to a summary return to London. to field investigations at altitudes over This did not harm his career as a few 6000m. He also was the first to discover months later he was appointed Head of the advantages of using Sherpas on high 42 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 43 altitude climbs in the Himalayas. (See Journal No 27, 2003, p. 17-19. Ed.) Arthur himself wrote that travel was in his blood – this is not difficult to see. Robert Arbuthnott, who was Director of the British Council in Kathmandu, worked closely with Arthur on cultural and educational matters. Both men were involved with the start of the so-called ‘Eton of Nepal’ whose first headmaster was John Tyson of Rugby School, a geographer and keen Himalayan climber. It was Tyson’s dream but there were many over from Lord Hunt as the Society’s difficulties in setting up the project which President in 1975. He was an enthusiastic was adopted by the Ministry of Overseas President helping to foster the Society’s Development and their educational aims. He was however drawn back to department. The building site for the Scotland in retirement, spending most of school had to be moved from Sundarijal to his time at his ‘croft’ on the remote Budhanilkantha. A new architect had to be Ardnamurchan peninsula. Helen Hickey found after the first one fell ill and a new visited the Kellas family there and writes: headmaster, John Wakeman, to succeed “The view out to sea included the islands Tyson after his six years of service. Robert of Rum, Eigg and Muck. When we asked and Arthur worked hard together to see the for instructions on how to reach them, with project launched. They were backed by the a twinkle in his eye, Arthur replied: “Ask enthusiastic support of Crown Prince anyone you see, they’ll tell you.” As we Birendra. It was a great joint venture and drove across the miles of deserted the school stands today as a beacon for moorland, all we could see were grazing education in Nepal. Arbuthnott goes on to sheep. When we arrived at our destination recount the events surrounding the first at the end of the road, there were sheep theatre tour from Britain to Nepal. “When grazing on the roof of the house.” Arthur we received Nepal’s first ever theatre tour Kellas had an exciting and distinguished from Britain, Arthur offered his full life and career. An accomplished soldier, support. He had the embassy staff hunting diplomat and linguist he gave so much in for ‘thunderboxes’ for the non-existent the service of his country. He has been dressing rooms in the theatre, and variously described as a wise, brave and persuaded the King to attend the first night gentle colleague and friend and will be and gave a party for the Prime Minister long remembered as charismatic soldier and members of the Royal Family. For the and diplomat. Nepalese he was exactly what they GDB expected an ambassador to be: tall, (I am grateful to Sir Patrick Moberly, Mrs energetic with a distinguished war record, Helen Hickey and Mr Robert Arbuthnott with his monocle screwed into his good for providing the information for this eye he looked the part. The Nepalese piece. Ed.) Royal family and leading members of the Government, the Army and the Mrs Ann Mitchell professions, had the greatest respect for his Ann Mitchell joined the Committee in judgement and a liking for his personality.” 1987 at the same time as Myrtle Ross. Arthur was an obvious choice to take They served together for over five years 43 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 44 and came to epitomise a marvellous group war service in the Indian Army in Burma of retired ladies of London who through and Malaya where he first came into their enthusiasm for the Society and their contact with the Gurkhas. Initially he affection for Nepal and its people have enlisted on the day war broke out in the kept alive and flourishing the aim of the Oxford and Buckinghamshire Light founders. Infantry but was sent home to ‘grow up’. Short in statue she was however an Later he was commissioned into the 4/7th ‘unmissable’ figure at lectures and events, Dragoon Guards, transferring to the 19th always cheerful, meeting, greeting and King George’s Own Lancers of the Indian handing around the crisps and nuts. For Army. It was here that he came to have many more years, until a fall slowed her such respect for the Gurkhas. In his later down, she was one of the volunteers to years he was make a visit to Nepal whilst prepare the hall and tables for the annual Speaker. He was a longstanding friend of Nepali supper, to which she would always Brigadier Wieler, father of Anthony bring a large party of relatives and friends. Wieler, and as such was a great helper in Indeed it was a nephew, a well-known the early days of the launch of the architect involved in the rehabilitation of Gurkha Welfare Appeal. I briefly met Durbar Square in Kathmandu, who first Lord Weatherill at one or two Society aroused her interest in Nepal. functions and I do remember that he Despite the loss of her second husband, would sometimes manage to come to the and later her walking accident, she Society’s annual curry supper and that in remained positive and enjoyed the simple 1998 he was our guest of honour and pleasures of life. Myrtle Ross remembers gave us a very entertaining after dinner with nostalgia the day she invited Ann to speech. We were honoured that he lunch to have a good chat and share a maintained his interest in the Gurkhas glass of wine. Ann finished the bottle and and Nepal throughout his long and very fell fast asleep. distinguished life. We who knew her miss her GDB companionship JME Lieutenant Colonel CG Wylie OBE Charles Wylie died on 18th July 2007 aged Lord Weatherill 86. His family have had a long connection Lord Weatherill died on Sunday 6th May with Nepal and the Gurkhas. His 2007 at the age of 86. Much has been grandfather, Maj Gen H Wylie, CSI, was written in other places about his political the Resident in Kathmandu 1891 to 1899. career and his contribution to Parliament His father was an officer in the 4th Gurkha where he was Speaker from 1983 to 1992. Rifles (4 GR) and Charles was born at He originated from a well known Bakloh, the 4 GR regimental centre where tailoring family. He remembered his his father was then the Chief Recruiting routes and to this effect always carried a Officer, on Christmas Eve 1919. His early tailor’s thimble. When asked why, he childhood was spent in India in sight of said: “to keep me humble”. He used to the High Himalayas and it was in Bakloh relate the story that on his first election to that he first learnt to speak Gurkhali the House of Commons he overheard a (soldiers’ Nepali). As was the custom in Tory grandee say: “My God, what is this those days, Charles was sent to school in place coming to? They’ve got my tailor in England at the age of six. He was looked here.” Lord Weatherill became a member after by his uncle’s family who took him of the Society probably as a result of his climbing in UK and to the Alps. This 44 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 45 experience together with the influence of quietly put my hands down and pushed his his housemaster at Marlborough School, long bayonet to one side and then I handed Mr Edwin Kempson, who had been a my pistol to him. And that was it. They member of the1935 and 1936 expeditions were funnily little chaps.” Charles was sent to Everest, gave him the impetus to to the infamous ‘death railway’ in become a very keen and skilled climber. Thailand. He was always reluctant speak Apart from his interest in mountaineering of his experiences there. “Hope kept us he was a very accomplished all-round going” was all he said. After the war he athlete. In the year that he passed out from returned to his regiment, then in Peshawar. Sandhurst, 1939, he was the British He was able to take an opportunity to Pentathlon Champion. However the climb in the Garhwal Himalayas on intervention of World War II effectively Nilkanta (21,640 feet) in 1947. He also ended his athletic potential. Initially he visited the Alps with his friend and was attached to the East Yorkshire mountaineering colleague, Jimmy Roberts, Regiment (all Indian Army officers had to of the 2nd Gurkha Rifles. They undertook serve briefly in a British unit before several serious climbs including the Piz joining their Indian regiment) and then Palu and the traverse of the Matterhorn joined the 1st Gurkha Rifles (1 GR) on the over the Zmutt and Italian Ridges. Charles North West Frontier. Just prior to the start was subsequently elected to membership of the war, he managed to climb Dhaula of the Alpine Club the following Dhar, a peak in the Himalayas of northern December. On Indian independence 1 GR Punjab. After operations on the Frontier, became part of the Indian Army; Charles his battalion, along with other units, was transferred to the 10th Gurkha Rifles sent to Malaya to counter the Japanese which became part of the British Army. He invasion. The British and Indian units were was soon back in Malaya and was overwhelmed in this campaign and they involved with anti-terrorist operations were forced to withdraw towards during the Malayan Emergency. Charles Singapore. In the ensuing withdrawal was a known mountaineer of recent through the jungle, units were split up and experience in both the Alps and the supplies became non-existent. Charles Himalayas. In addition he spoke Nepali with a small party of Gurkhas was and had practical knowledge of Nepal and eventually captured whilst lying up in a the Nepalese. Post-war expeditions to planter’s bungalow on a rubber estate near Everest had to attempt the climb from the the Slim River. Charles described this Nepalese side as the pre-war Chinese route incident in the draft of his memoirs, Peaks was ‘off limits’ to westerners. Charles was and Troughs, (in litt), and in a recording he therefore an obvious candidate to play a made in 2005 at the Gurkha Museum. major part in any British attempt on the With virtually no ammunition Charles mountain. He was appointed organizing decided that nothing would be gained in secretary for the 1953 Everest expedition this situation by further fighting. One of by the Himalayan Committee, a full time the Japanese soldiers who had surrounded task that required his release from military the bungalow entered. “He was astonished duties for the duration. Charles was to see all of us there with our hands up. responsible for coordinating all aspects of Anyhow he thought he had better kill the preparations. The question of somebody and came straight for me (I was leadership of the expedition has been the little one). But he was a bit hesitant. I written about in various accounts of the detected it. He was just about to shove a expedition but the choice fell on Colonel bayonet into my stomach and I very John Hunt. John Hunt made the point, “We 45 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 46 have to be grateful to him that the his family's three generations of expedition's equipment was so association with Nepal and its Gurkhas, meticulously prepared and documented, his very gentleness might be said to have that every minor detail was thought of and more of a Nepali quality than English.” As provided for.” A fellow member of the team member Wilfrid Noyce, observed: “It eventual team, George Band, wrote: “I had would have been difficult to find two more never met Charles before being involved gentlemanly military men to rule over us with Everest, and knew nothing about his than Charles and John.” It took three earlier climbing so I looked up his weeks in those days to walk from application for the Alpine Club in 1947, Kathmandu to Namche Bazaar in the proposed by no less than Geoffrey Everest area. The Army had provided five Winthrop Young, and was astonished to Gurkha NCOs to help, but Charles, apart read he had already made four visits to the from overseeing the movement of the Alps as a teenager, climbing over 25 expedition through the Nepalese respectable peaks.” Band continues: “As countryside, had much to do with transport officer, and a fluent Urdu and translating as necessary and generally Nepali speaker, Charles calmly undertook keeping the show on the road. the mind-boggling task of marshalling the Communications to Kathmandu were via a hundreds of porters and forty Sherpas radio link to Namche and then by runner without whom Hillary and Tenzing would to Base Camp. Whilst there, Charles not have reached the summit of Mount received the news of the birth of a son. Everest. He was almost literally The message (now part of the Everest responsible for keeping the show on the story) read: “I am transported with great road, both to and up the mountain, exultation to announce the birth of your soothing porters’ grievances and keeping son. I hope that you have cause for similar their spirits up. In this he worked closely rejoicing at least once a year. Please pay with Tenzing whom he had helped the bearer one rupee.” Charles’ major persuade to join the expedition as sirdar.” contribution to the actual climb was the They had climbed together in India in epic ‘carry’ to the South Col. All 1948 so he was well aware of Tenzing’s successful bids to climb a major abilities. Initially Tenzing was reluctant as Himalayan peak require a period of he had spent the 1951/52 seasons with the reasonable weather, never guaranteed, and Swiss attempts on the mountain. However to have the necessary high camps ready- Tenzing accepted, helping to provide the stocked to permit the summit team to strong team on which the expedition was climb straight through with minimum formed. Both men had the ability not only loads. Band describes this operation: “In as organizers but also as potential summit the final assault, Noyce and Wylie were climbers. On arrival in India Charles allocated the South Col ‘carry’, the vital became the expedition’s transport officer. job of getting two teams of Sherpas - 14 in Band continues: “Indeed, the partnership all - with their loads to the Col at 26,000ft between Tenzing and Wylie as they - a height equivalent to that of Annapurna, handled the Everest bandobast was then the highest summit yet climbed. probably as central to the expedition’s Some 500lbs of equipment and stores were success as the pairing of Tenzing and needed on the Col prior to any determined Hillary for the summit bid. Imperturbable, summit bids. But for 12 days the modest and unfailingly polite, Charles expedition was close to being beaten by really did fit the image of the fresh snow, cold and wind on the Lhotse quintessential English gentleman. Yet with Face - the 4,000ft barrier that had to be 46 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 47 climbed to reach the Col from the Western place just three days before 31st August Cwm. Noyce, with a single Sherpa 1957 when Malaya achieved Annullu, made the first breakthrough to independence. The success was due to a the Col on 21st May when the other mixture of careful planning, focussed Sherpas needed a day's rest. Then came activity and leadership by example of the Wylie's major contribution. It was an company commander. Charles had only inspiring moment for those of us at just returned from UK leave via Nepal. His Advanced Base in the Cwm when we saw reputation as a soldier and a mountaineer 17 figures strung out on the Traverse had preceded him. Now within two months between Camp VII at 24,000ft and the Col. of his return he had pulled off this Hunt had rushed up Hillary and Tenzing to remarkable coup. As a raw young give fresh impetus, and in their footsteps subaltern in the battalion I had expected a on the face came Wylie now escorting all whirlwind, but this man of action turned 14 Sherpas, each with a 30lb load. One out to be the most courteous and modest Sherpa failed to make it, but Wylie took person one could hope to meet. I soon over his load, completing the ascent to the realized that these two aspects of his Col despite running out of oxygen. As they character existed together in complete dumped their loads at the Col, the harmony, and were his constant expedition's progress was back on course. hallmarks.” It was the Sherpas' finest hour.” The years 1961 to 1964 saw Charles Charles returned to military duties back back in Kathmandu as the Military with 10 GR in Malaya. He did however Attaché. This was a very appropriate continue climbing with Jimmy Roberts and posting for him and it was here that I first he was a member of the team that tackled had the privilege of meeting him when, as the famous Machapuchare or ‘Fish Tail a young subaltern, I was the Signals Peak’ that is the backdrop to the town of Officer in Dharan. He had taken over from Pokhara. The story of this epic climb in Jimmy Roberts who had retired and stayed which the summit pair was stopped by in Nepal to help visiting mountaineering columns of blue ice just 150 feet short of expeditions, eventually becoming the the top by is given in Wilfred Noyce’s ‘father’ of the developing tourist trekking classic mountaineering book, Climbing the trade. The problems of maintaining HF Fish’s Tail. Charles, with Lord Chorley, radio communications with aging described this in a lecture to the Society in equipment gave me many trips to 2000. (See journal No 24. Ed.) Once again Kathmandu. Charles was always kind, Charles returned to operations in Malaya with 2/10 GR. Gen Sir Gary Johnson writes: “Charles was OC B Company and carried out a successful counter-terrorist action in the State of Johore. Information was received that a group of terrorists were planning to emerge from the jungle to pick up rations from a chicken coop on the edge of a village. A small group of Gurkha soldiers were smuggled into the coop by night. After two days, during which the soldiers remained concealed and quiet, the bandits came and were duly accounted for. It was a classic little operation which took 47 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 48 helpful and understanding and I learnt his charity work. He was the ideal choice much about Nepal through these visits. We as an early Chairman for the Society in the worked together on a number of projects late 1960s/early 1970s, working with Lord including provision of radio equipment for Hunt, our first President. After five years the Royal Nepalese Army. He was also as Chairman he became a Vice President. interested in the progress of the ‘Chinese’ He was a strong supporter of the Society road that was then under construction and a source of knowledge and advice to along which I had walked on a trek to subsequent chairmen and members Kathmandu. It was a lovely time to be in throughout his life. He maintained close Kathmandu and stimulated my further links with Nepal through his many interest that one day I might follow in his contacts both in the climbing and military footsteps there. The atmosphere then was worlds. He was concerned at recent events still very much as described by Han Su Yin and it was only in April 2007 that I visited in The Mountain is Young. Charles’ last him for the last time to update him. The posting was as the Brigade’s liaison officer words of General Johnson at Charles’ in the MOD. He was the voice of the memorial service reflect all that has been Brigade in UK. Post ‘Confrontation’ in said of him and how he conducted his life: Borneo the Brigade of Gurkhas suffered a “Charles was both a gentle man and a severe cut in numbers resulting in a gentleman, in all senses of that term. significant number of soldiers being made Always optimistic, always positive, always redundant. Following this decision, the engaged, he was a handsome man and an Gurkha Welfare Trust was set up. Charles attractive personality, and these traits was heavily involved with this in the early seemed to grow even more pronounced days of publicising and obtaining the with the years. He grew old gracefully and support needed prior to the launch of the remained alert to the last.” appeal. The work of the Trust continues to GDB this day. In retirement Charles became (Full obituaries appeared in both ‘The involved with charity work. For some time Daily Telegraph’ and ‘The Independent’ on he worked for the Canine Defence League. the 27th July 2007. I am grateful to Mr Later he was a founder member of the George Band and General Sir Gary Britain – Nepal Medical Trust, becoming Johnson for assistance with this piece. Ed.) its executive secretary from 1986 to 1994. In 1995 Charles was awarded the OBE for ADVERTISEMENTSINTHEJOURNAL Why not advertise in the Britain-Nepal Society Jour nal There is a membership with a large range of i nt er est s rel ated to Nepal You never know who may be i nterested! 48 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 49 Koshi Camp Pvt. Ltd. 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Ed. 50 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 51 NOTES ON THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY President: HRH The Duke of Gloucester KG GCVO The Britain-Nepal Society was founded in Members of the Yeti Association which 1960 to promote good relations between provides equally for Nepalese residents the peoples of the UK and Nepal. We or those staying in this country are also especially wish to foster friendship between welcome to attend the Britain-Nepal UK citizens with a particular interest in Society’s functions, and can become full Nepal and Nepalese citizens resident – members of the Britain-Nepal Society in whether permanently or temporarily – in the usual way. The Yeti is a flourishing this country. A much valued feature of the organization and they publish their own Society is the ease and conviviality with attractive journal. which members of every background and Throughout the year, the Society holds all ages mingle together. a programme of evening lectures, which Members are drawn from all walks of are currently held at the Medical Society life including mountaineers, travellers, of London, Chandos Street, off teachers, returned volunteers, aid Cavendish Square, where members are workers, doctors, business people, encouraged to meet each other over a members of the Diplomatic Service and drink beforehand. serving and retired officers of the Brigade The Society holds an Annual Nepali of Gurkhas. The bond they all share is an Supper, usually in February and other abiding interest in and affection for Nepal events which are some times shared with and the Nepalese people. Membership is the Yeti Association. In the autumn we open to those of all ages over 18 and a hold our AGM, which is followed by a particular welcome goes to applications curry supper which normally takes place from those under 35. at the Nepalese Embassy. The Society Ordinary members pay a subscription also holds receptions and hospitality for of £15 (husband and wife members £25) visiting senior Nepalese. per annum. Life membership is a single Events normally take place in London payment of £300, joint life membership, unless otherwise advised. a payment of £500, and corporate The Committee is actively seeking business members £50 and charities £25 suggestions from members for ways of per annum. Concessionary rates are expanding and developing the available at both ends of the age range. programme. The annual journal includes a wide Those interested in joining the Society range of articles about Nepal and is sent should write to the Honorary free to all members. Membership Secretary: We keep in close touch with the Nepal- Mrs Pat Mellor Britain Society in Kathmandu, and their 3 (c) Gunnersbury Avenue members are welcome to attend all the Ealing Common Britain-Nepal Society’s functions. London W5 3NH However we do not have reciprocal Tel: 020 8992 0173 membership. 51 55503 BritainNepal31TEX:49231 Britain Nepal 30 TEX 20/10/11 09:14 Page 52 THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY Patron: Her Royal Highness Princess Jotshana Rajya Laxmi Devi Basnyat President: His Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester KG, GCVO Vice-Presidents Brigadier AB Taggart MC Lieutenant Colonel HCS Gregory OBE, KSG Mrs Celia Brown# Colonel JM Evans MC Sir Neil Thorne OBE, TD, DL Mr Peter A Leggatt MBE Mrs Pat Mellor** Committee (2006/07) Chairman: Lieutenant Colonel Gerry D Birch* Vice-Chairman: Mr John L Ackroyd Honorary Secretary: Dr Neil Weir Honorary Treasurer: Dr Peter A Trott Mrs Liza Clifton Miss Louisa Hutchinson Mr Richard N Jenkin Mr Harish Karki Mrs Sneha Rana Mrs Frances Spackman Colonel John SK Swanston Mr Steve Askham, FCO (ex officio) Mr Simon L Lord ED, HQ Brigade of Gurkhas (ex officio) Editor of the Journal: Lieutenant Colonel GD Birch* Membership Secretary: Mrs Pat Mellor** Archivist: Mrs Celia Brown # 52