WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 27, 2008 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear The White Choice There’s plenty of room for both the boyish and the girly on spring’s lingerie landscape, where classic men’s pajamas are as popular as the fl imsiest nightgowns. Here, Frette’s shadow-striped cotton pj’s in a traditional shade. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Claiborne Cuts Outlook As Firms Batten Down To Cope With Economy

By Evan Clark The pressure keeps growing on vendors and retailers. As global stock markets wheeze, credit markets drip and consumers hold onto their dollars tighter than a bear trap, the fashion industry scales back by the day to cope with the squeeze. The latest is Liz Claiborne Inc., which sharply cut 2008 financial projections and halved capital expenditures for 2009. “What we’re all seeing right now is a shutdown in discretionary spending,” William L. McComb, chief executive officer, told WWD. “Back-to-school didn’t happen, so that’s when the nose went down on the plane.” For the third quarter, the firm is expecting losses from continuing operations of 8 cents to 14 cents a share, down from year-ago earnings See Fashion, Page 25 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: ANNA N. /ELITE; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; STYLED BY MAKEUP BY TANIGUCHI; RYAN ERICKSEN; MODEL: ANNA N. /ELITE; HAIR BY KYLE PHOTO BY INSIDE: THE FASTEST GROWING FASHION MAGAZINE OF 2008 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM Susan Sokol Named J.Mendel President By Marc Karimzadeh a bridal business into a fashion brand with de- signer rtw and sportswear. At Vera Wang, she WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear NEW YORK — Susan Sokol has a new home also helped develop the contemporary Lavender at J.Mendel. label, which is sold in over 400 doors. The former president of apparel at Vera Prior to joining Vera Wang, Sokol was FASHION Wang has been tapped as J.Mendel’s a consultant and acting president 6 On the right woman, even men’s pajamas can be president and chief operating offi cer. at Michael Kors. Before that, she sexy, à la Veronica Lake in “Sullivan’s Travels” or In addition, Sokol has become a owned her own consulting fi rm, Claudette Colbert in “It Happened One Night.” member of the company’s board. SLS Consulting LLC, where This is an expanded role she worked with the likes of GENERAL for the fashion house, which Kors, Badgley Mischka, Judith In the midst of the global fi nancial crisis, the is rooted in fi ve generations Leiber and Wang. She was 1 Susan fashion industry is scaling back to cope, the latest of furriers. The title of presi- Sokol earlier chief executive offi- dent was previously held by cer of The Leiber Group (ini- being Liz Claiborne Inc. Edward Reich, who left the tially called Pegasus Apparel EYE: The Fashion Group International awards began ▲ 4 company in April. Group) and, before that, presi- as an odyssey to Cipriani Wall Street and continued Sokol met Gilles Mendel, dent of Donna Karan New York its journey with some circuitous speeches. chief executive officer and for three years. Sokol also spent designer, several months ago 22 years at Calvin Klein, where 12 INNERWEAR: Limited Stores is launching its fi rst through a mutual friend. she served 11 years as president of full collection of intimate apparel, bearing the “I have great admiration for Gilles women’s Calvin Klein Collection. Bendon label, on Nov. 3. as a creative designer, and I have always Mendel noted, “I come from a fur back- 15 ACCESSORIES: The global economic crisis couldn’t been so impressed by the level of uniqueness ground and I had been looking for someone who help but pervade Premiere Classe, although many and modernity he has brought and continues understands how to expand the apparel busi- said they were weathering the storm. to bring to the fur classifi cation,” Sokol said. ness and develop the ready-to-wear, which is “In terms of the ready-to-wear business, which something I have done for the past few years, 16 Tiffany is putting its contemporary foot forward launched about four years ago, we both see a and bring the company to the next level.” with a new, smaller retail format at the lifestyle solid potential for meaningful growth in this part J.Mendel is sold in stores such as Neiman center Americana at Brand in Glendale, Calif. of the business, expanding the current distribu- Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Lane Crawford 17 As part of his brand’s silver anniversary, Kenneth and Harrods, and Cole is publishing “Awearness: Inspiring Stories has eight stores, in- About How to Make a Difference.” I had been looking for someone who cluding Madison “ Avenue in New 25 The global fi nancial crisis and the possibility of understands how to expand the apparel York; Aspen, Colo.; Blake a worldwide recession could see the textile and Chicago; Moscow, and Lively apparel industry in for some rough times. business and develop the ready-to-wear. Paris. Sokol starts at J.Mendel today. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 26-27 — Gilles Mendel, ”J.Mendel “Clearly, the ready- to-wear has a strong TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS tion on a global basis, as well as evolving and focus on evening right now, which will continue, [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. intensifying certain categories of the product.” and there are parts of that evening that can be WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 Sokol knows a thing or two about expanding a expanded,” she said. “Gilles and I are aligned in FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. traditionally dress-driven business into a multi- terms of how to grow the business.” VOLUME 196, NO. 89. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with tiered fashion brand. As president of Vera Wang Mendel added, “My goal has been to make one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division apparel for the past four years, Sokol played a J.Mendel a fashion and luxury brand, and hav- of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services key role in transforming what was then mainly ing her expertise will allow me to go there.” provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please Tiffany Fights Ruling in eBay Case write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed auctions that brand owners spotted as contain- within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S By Matthew Lynch WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 ing counterfeit items satisfi ed the online auction or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the TIFFANY & CO. HAS PRESENTED WRITTEN house’s responsibilities. World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened arguments to an appeals court asking for the re- The Second Circuit is the latest battleground companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call versal of the landmark ruling against the jewel- for a suit, fi rst brought in 2004, that has cap- 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY ry retailer in a legal fight with eBay Inc. earlier tured the attention of the luxury goods and OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, this year. e-commerce worlds. Accordingly, Tiffany was PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS In a brief fi led Wednesday in the U.S. Court not alone in making its arguments. Both the SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND of Appeals for the Second Circuit in Manhattan, Council of Fashion Designers of America and OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. lawyers for Tiffany argued that the U.S. District the International Anti-Counterfeiting Coalition Court’s July 15 ruling frustrated fundamental fi led amicus, or friend of the court, briefs in policies of trademark law. support of the jeweler. Such briefs allow par- Among other arguments, Tiffany’s counsel ties that have not been named in a lawsuit, but DAILY The red carpet distorts wrote that the lower court’s judgment mischar- that have an interest in the case, to appeal to acterized the “heart of the dispute,” when it bal- the court. QUOTE fashion“ by giving it a fake anced eBay’s anticounterfeiting policies with EBay is scheduled to fi le its own brief in re- Tiffany’s work protecting its own mark. sponse next month. The panel of three judges and too-glamorous face. In the earlier decision, Judge Richard trying the appeal most likely will hear oral argu- Sullivan ruled that the burden of policing a ments from the opposing parties after it has re- ” trademark falls primarily on the mark holder. ceived all written material. It then typically takes — Karl Lagerfeld, at Fashion Group International’s Sullivan found that eBay’s efforts to remove several months for the court to enter a judgment. Night of Stars, on fashion today. Page 4.

COMING THIS WEEK Vegan TODAY ON OUT TODAY Queen Organic MONDAY: WWD/DNR • Under Armour Inc. reports cotton CEO Summit, New York third-quarter sales and earnings. canvas (through Tuesday). bag. WEDNESDAY: WWD • Los Angeles Hanesbrands Inc. International Textile Show and Jones Apparel Group Inc. .COM (through Wednesday). report third-quarter sales • Tax Free World and earnings. Exhibition, Cannes, France • Procter & Gamble Co. • WWDTrend: Green (through Friday). reports first-quarter sales • Additional photos and earnings. from Night of Stars TUESDAY: Lineapelle Fair, • Featured Images: Bologna, Italy THURSDAY: Silmo, Paris (through Thursday). (through Sunday). Party Time • The Conference Board • China Sourcing Fair: • More on Kenneth releases the Consumer Fashion Accessories, Cole’s “Awearness” Confidence Index for October. Underwear & Swimwear, book and campaign • The Estée Lauder Cos. Hong Kong (through Sunday). Inc. reports first-quarter • Avon Products Inc. reports • Global breaking news

sales and earnings. third-quarter sales and earnings. KRISTIN BURNS PHOTO BY • WWDBlogs ® HACHETTE FILIPACCHI MEDIA U.S. CONGRATULATES ELLE

#3 ON THE AD AGE 2008 THETHE FASTESTFASTEST A-LIST GROWINGGROWING FASHION #2 ADWEEK MAGAZINE BRAND OF 2008 LEADER

#1 AD AGE EXECUTIVE OF THE YEAR: SUCCESS CAROL SMITH IIS ALWAYS IN FASHION 4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM

Prince and Jennifer Lopez, Donatella Versace with Allegra Beck both in Versace. and Balthazar Getty, all in Versace.

Georgina Chapman inin Marchesa.Marchesa.

Hart Bochner with Debra Messing in Kaufman Franco. The Long Good Night Fashion Group International’s 25th annual awards ceremony on Thursday night began as an odyssey with designers, retailers and editors forced to schlep downtown to Cipriani Wall Street and then, as the night — and some of the speeches — dragged on past many peoples’ bedtimes (or pretended Francisco Costa with Ashley Olsen ones), it turned into a marathon. (Notes to organizers: Please bring it back in Calvin Klein Collection. uptown next year, cut the number of awards — isn’t 13 an unlucky number? — and buy a hook to yank the spotlight hogs off the stage.) All in all, though, the evening lived up to its billing as Night of Stars, with one of the heaviest designer-and-celeb quotients in years (maybe it was all those awards on offer). Jennifer Lopez, Prince, Blake Lively and Ashley Olsen arrived wearing duds by their pals, including honorees Donatella Versace, Francisco Costa and Christopher Bailey. “I met [Donatella] shortly after her brother [Gianni] died and my heart went out to her. We’ve always had a sweet and loving friendship,” Lopez said and then walked over to double-kiss Karl Lagerfeld. For a celebrity at an event studded with so many top designers, loyalties can be a tricky Bruce Weber with thing. But Kate Bosworth, who was dressed by Bailey, insisted that her other fashion mates Bobbi Brown in weren’t the jealous types. “It’s too much work to have someone like that as a friend,” she said. Piazza Sempione. Other celebrities were taking notes for their own collections. Olsen, designer of The Row and Elizabeth & James, praised Costa’s integrity. “He stays true to himself and understands how to design for a woman,” she said. But in the end, the starlets in attendance couldn’t steal the spotlight from Lagerfeld, who presented the Fashion Oracle Award to Harold Koda with an astute handwritten speech that took several digs at the current fashion system. “I’m always told my speeches are too short, so this time I made an effort,” Lagerfeld began, his rapid-fi re speech picking up in tempo to try to keep his remarks relatively short. But for those who listened closely, Professor Lagerfeld delivered a treatise on fashion and design today. “Fashion is a harmony between beauty and utility,” he said at one point. Later, Lagerfeld took a swipe at the whole celebrity-dressing phenomenon: “The red carpet distorts fashion by giving it a fake and too-glamorous face.” When a speech is as powerful as Lagerfeld’s, length is irrelevant. But, in other cases, when the sentiment is meaningless, brief is better. Prince declined to say anything onstage during his and Lopez’s presentation of the Superstar Award to Versace. She, too, was short and sweet. “I’m proud to receive this award in America — particularly since

▲ Blake Lively in Chanel. three Italian women tonight, all blondes, are receiving awards,” Versace said, referring to fellow honorees (and sisters) Carla and Franca Sozzani. Others didn’t listen to emcee Simon Doonan, who reminded guests that “brevity is the soul of wit. I think Jackie Collins said that, or Shakespeare.” Take Philippe Starck, who waxed on for aeons about his friendship with honoree Christian Louboutin and then even dissed the design of the trophy he, too, received. “It’s astonishing how all the awards are always so ’orrible,’” said the man who designs toilet brushes and was perhaps more deserving of the “Cheval Cul” Award. Other honorees included Natalie Massenet of Net-a-porter for Corporate Leadership and Harvey Weinstein. Bill McComb and the Liz Claiborne Foundation received the Humanitarian award; John Paul DeJoria received Karl Lagerfeld the Sustainability award. Then there were those who took their opportunity onstage to comment on the election — though in the overwhelmingly Democratic crowd, it was a little like preaching to the choir. “I have three words for you,” began honoree Bobbi Brown. Then, in her own Joe Biden moment, she added, “Get out and vote [cough] Barack.”

Mamie Gummer in Isaac Mizrahi with the designer and Bill McComb.

For more, see WWD.com. Kate Bosworth in Burberry Christian Louboutin Prorsum with Christopher Bailey. PHOTOS BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY PHOTOS BY When talking fur and fashion... the key word is NAFA

Each year the North American Fur Association (NAFA) creates an inspirational collection of furs for the new fall/winter season. The 2009 Collection includes extraordinary examples of ranched mink and fox, sable, fisher, coyote, raccoon, and beaver which have been uniquely dressed and processed by the famed artisans of MIB in Milan. These beautiful furs, including new working techniques, are available for viewing by CFDA designers and their teams on Tuesday October 28th and Wednesday October 29th from 9AM to 5PM by appointment only. To find out more information about the NAFA/CFDA Designer Initiative please email [email protected]. The North American Fur Association is the marketing arm of North American Fur Auctions, the largest fur producer in North America and one of the leading fur producers of the world. 6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 Let’s Jam Paging Veronica Lake in “Sullivan’s Travels” and Claudette Colbert in “It Happened One Night.” On the right woman, even the most traditional men’s pajamas seem sexy. — Bobbi Queen

Burberry’s silk pajamas.

A.F. Vandevorst Nightfall’s polyester pajamas.

Natori’s polyester pajamas. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Mansilk by

Mary Green’s H BRECK silk pajamas.

La Perla Black Label’s silk tuxedo pants and jacket. Vintage slippers from Blue Dragon by Rita Stein; necklace from Barbara Flood’s Closet. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: ANNA N./ ELITE; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI; MAKEUP BY MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARA ASSISTANT: MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; FASHION MAKEUP BY TANIGUCHI; RYAN ERICKSEN; MODEL: ANNA N./ ELITE; HAIR BY KYLE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear Report

Mary Green’s silk robe.

Josie’s cotton and nylon boyshorts.

Moschino’s silk satin bra with lace trim.

Only Hearts’ microfi ber nylon and spandex camisole.

Felina’s nylon Modal and spandex bikini.

Cosabella’s Eberjey’s nylon nylon and Tommy Hilfi ger Intimates’ pointelle mesh cotton thong. cotton and spandex bra. camisole. Calvin Klein Underwear’s nylon and elastane panties. Red, White and New Deep crimson and sheer white pieces get sophisticated yet playful twists with touches of lace and bows. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH LIEBOWITZ; STYLED BY CHRISTINA ROPERTI LIEBOWITZ; STYLED BY SARAH ASSISTANT: THOMAS IANNACCONE; FASHION PHOTO BY

10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear

Adding lacy, feminine details gives navy and white Lace Track lingerie a fresh new dimension.

Sex and the City by Cosabella’s cotton jersey tunic.

Claire Pettibone’s nylon and spandex lace thong.

Jockey’s nylon and spandex camisole.

Lavit’s polyamide and spandex bra.

Only Hearts’ nylon tulle boy briefs.

Myla’s polyamide, polyurethane Fayreform’s and elastane panties. polyamide, viscose, elastane Wacoal’s rayon, spandex and polyester bra. and nylon camisole.

Eileen West’s Modal nylon shorts. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH LIEBOWITZ; STYLED BY CHRISTINA ROPERTI LIEBOWITZ; STYLED BY SARAH ASSISTANT: THOMAS IANNACCONE; FASHION PHOTO BY © 2007 Fruit of the Loom, Inc. We’re expanding to fi ll up all kinds of space. Innovative fabrics, styles, and designs in the many Plus, our retail are profi partners ting from increased market basket a rings, Fruit of the Loom intimates andnew sleepwear collections continue to create loyal customers. award-winning customer service. It’s more proof that you really can’t have too much of agoodthing. An ever-growing numberofcollections. Never quiteenoughroom. Dozens ofstyles. ractive margins, and and margins, ractive 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear Shanghai Show: Not Feeling the Pinch Yet

By Lisa Movius The entrance of the Shanghai Mode Lingerie fair. SHANGHAI — The global economy may even be causing cracks in China’s economy, but so far lingerie and innerwear fabrics appear to have avoided major impact. That was the consensus among exhibitors at the two-day Shanghai Mode Lingerie show that closed Oct. 18, and the three-day Intertextile fair that ended Thursday. “Business is very good,” said Daphne Li, a senior merchandiser for Aimer Group. “The domestic market has not seen any impact so far.” Based in Beijing, Aimer retails high-end lingerie in mainland China and the brand will open its fi rst Macau store at the end of October. Aimer was one of 14 labels from seven different companies participating in the “Private Lingerie” portion of Shanghai Mode Lingerie. Other participants in “Private Lingerie,” the VIP section of the lingerie and fab- ric fair, generally said they were “too elite or niche-oriented” to feel the economic pinch yet. Cervin, a French brand attempting to sell heritage American nylons to the Chinese, attended because “the Chinese cannot copy our collection,” said export development manager Erick Piton. Their retro nylons, made on a vintage American machine from 1953 and rendered in customized designs popular with European celebrities, require some explanation for Chinese consumers. “We come to make business here and for our partners to see what is happening,” Piton said. “We have an agent, but the agent is not satisfi ed as there are no sales. But maybe the problem for us is not to adapt more. There is a communication problem.” Li of Aimer said, “The results at this show have been just OK. We’ve mostly seen older customers and those we know from previous shows.” Ina Lee, manager of Taiwanese print fabric maker Jatech International, was disap- pointed in the show but took a different view of the global economic impact. Although Jatech’s sales base is mostly in Greater China, with only 2 percent going to Europe, Shanghai Mode was followed by Intertextile Shanghai, considered the world’s larg- she said, “The economy has had a huge impact on our sales, and prints are selling est textile fair, which pulled in 2,559 exhibitors. Intertextile introduced its fi rst lin- less. The drop in our business is not small.” gerie and swimwear area. However, only four exhibitors participated. A majority of Organized by trade fair giant Eurovet, which holds similar shows in Hong Kong, lingerie-related products, including boudoir accessories, opted to participate in areas this year’s session in Shanghai attracted about the same number of exhibitors, close near the larger, more prominent fi ber pavilions such as Invista, Lenzing and Dow. to 170, that were primarily in the Interfi lière Asia fabrics and components section. “The separation is not good and is not helpful for us since we mostly make lace for Visitor attendance was composed of 60 percent from China, 20 percent from the rest outerwear,” said Margaret Zhuang, director of Le Chinique, a Zhejiang lace manufac- of Asia, and the remainder from the international sector. turer in the lingerie section. “Intertextile is mediocre this year. This location is bad Eurovet estimated some Asian subcontractors may lose as much as 40 percent of and there aren’t many people.” their orders because of the U.S. economic crises. However, the fair’s organizers pro- But she noted that her company has not been affected by the global economic situ- jected 11 percent growth in intimate apparel and textiles in the Chinese market over ation because it has “no American buyers.” the next fi ve years. Eurovet offi cials said Asia represents only 20 percent of the global Robert Wang, director of Winner Lace Co., a year-old subsidiary of a Taiwanese lingerie market, noting that the continent has strong potential for growth. fi rm based in Mainland China, expressed satisfaction with the show. “Winner Lace has been focused on the Chinese market so it has also seen little fallout from the global economy, said Wang. “The domestic market is OK, but some of our customers manufacture for export, so the U.S. problems infl uence them.” 2008IntimateApparelCouncil MemberCompanies  BarryRossIntimateConnections

BiflexIntimatesGroup,LLC TheBromleyGroup,LLC $1.8 billion Third-quarter retail sales of lingerie in China in 2008, representing CalvinKlein Presents 8 percent of the average Chinese consumer’s overall clothing budget, CaroleHochmanDesignGroup which is projected to rise 10 percent next year. “Turning Adversity to SOURCE: EUROVET ChantelleLingerie,Inc.

CharlesKomar&Sons,Inc. Opportunity”

ChelseaDesignGroup ClevisBend Marshal Cohen

EileenWest Chief Industry Analyst FashionForms The NPD Group

HankyPanky November 4th, 2008 6:00 pm-8:00pm HanroUSA,Inc. Union League Club Invista 38 East 37th Street New York, NY JCPenneyCompany JockeyInternational,Inc. Cocktail /Networking followed by program LovableWorldTradingCo.,Inc.

Maidenform

MovieStar,Inc. The Intimate Apparel Council (IAC) is a division of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. NewGenerationComputing The Council’s purpose is to stimulate the growth of the intimate NilitAmerica apparel business. It cooperates with consultants and others in gathering information of special concern to the intimate apparel O'BryanBrothers,Inc. industry and engages in public relations programs for the benefit of RagoFoundationsLLC the consumer, retailer and manufacturer.

RussellNewmanLtd. For IAC membership or program information, contact Mary Howell, AAFA at 703.797.9045 SpotlessEnterprises www.apparelandfootwear.org.

WarnacoInc.

Women’sWearDaily

24SevenInc.

14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear Limited Gets Intimate With Bendon

By Karyn Monget in 2000, said Alice Hilliard, associate vice president of accessories and new busi- THE LIMITED IS LAUNCHING ITS ness at The Limited. first collection of intimate apparel, bear- Discussing the launch of a full range of ing the Bendon label, on Nov. 3. lingerie, Hilliard said, “We think intimate Bendon Ltd. is a 60-year-old linge- apparel is something our customer looks rie company and brand based in New for, and we think that to have it in our Zealand with estimated annual revenues stores and cater to her lifestyle and the in excess of $150 million. It manufactures way she shops will be one-stop shopping intimates, including full-fi gure Fayreform for our customer and a great opportunity bras, and has two designer licenses: for us. We’ll be testing with our vendor Elle Macpherson Intimates and Stella [Bendon] in 20 doors, and we think it will McCartney Intimates. In the joint partner- be the perfect time to do seamless pant- ship with The Limited, the Bendon name ies and have a seamless cami and panty will be marketed as Intimates by Bendon set [made in Brazil] in a range of fashion for The Limited, while hangtags and the colors and basic colors.” The lingerie also label will feature the Bendon name. will be sold on thelimited.com Web site. The Limited has 220 doors and plans to expand the Bendon collection into We have a great dress more units over the next several years “ based on consumer reaction and product mix, Hilliard said. She declined to give a business, and it’s a sales projection, but said lingerie should account for 3 percent of total store busi- natural for our dress ness in the next three to fi ve years. “We’ll be playing around with dif- Two lingerie looks from Intimates by Bendon for The Limited. customer to buy a bra to ferent presentations in cabinets in our go with a dress. stores with one group in one store, and Bendon USA, said the union with Limited The collection of 12 styles of coordi- other groups in other stores,” Hilliard Stores is a “great opportunity” during a nating bra and panty sets will feature a — Alice Hilliard,” The Limited said. “Our mission was not to purchase a challenging economic time. Body Basics group that will comprise 70 lot of new fi xturing.” “They approached us, someone on percent of offerings, while fashion styles She said the “core customer is 26- to their investor team,” Vandagriff said. with lace and mesh treatments and mini- Limited Stores had been part of 35-years-old. But she really is all ages “We’ve now found a home in the U.S. for mal embellishments will account for 30 Limited Brands Inc., which owns and has a mind-set of being younger. She Bendon, whose namesake brand has long percent. Items for spring will include two Victoria’s Secret, until an affi liate of Sun is very on-trend, but also likes to be her- been well-known in New Zealand, which new groups: Body Lace and Body Lavish Capital Partners Inc. acquired a 75 per- self. We have a great dress business, and has 20 Bendon stores; Australia, which has with embroideries. “We may have a panty cent stake in The Limited in July 2007. it’s a natural for our dress customer to six stores, and the United Arab Emirates, program in the future,” Vandagriff said. Limited Stores did not feature lingerie buy a bra to go with a dress.” which has 12 franchises. It’s a great part- The bras, which will be sized 32A to because of the connection with Victoria’s Hilliard singled out a strapless style nership with the Limited’s DNA because 38DD, will retail between $35 and $38; Secret, with the exception of a seamless by Bendon as a key item. the demographics of their consumer is panties in sizes S, M, L and XL, will be cami manufactured in Brazil, introduced Victoria Vandagriff, president of aligned with the Bendon consumer.” priced $14 to $16.

Untitled-11 1 5/7/08 4:44:46 PM WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 15 WWD.COM Accessories Report Innovation Beats Out Malaise at Premiere Classe By Katya Foreman and Ellen Groves director for French bag brand Jerome Dreyfuss, said, “It’s been PARIS — The global economic crisis couldn’t help but pervade the recent edition of very quiet. It’s now vital to go and Premiere Classe at Jardin des Tuileries here, although many exhibitors, particularly see retailers. I’ll be making trips from the high-end jewelry sector, said they were weathering the storm just fine. to the States and Asia over the Buyers at the show, which ended its four-day run Oct. 6, said they still looked to coming weeks.” Bold cuffs by Helene Zubeldia. accessories to fan business, counting on statement pieces to differentiate assortments Others claimed business has and stimulate foot traffi c in stores. been strong. “Where we really saw innovation was in jewelry, from the delicate to the bold, with “We’ve never had so much business from this salon, including from American buy- unusual mixes of stones and metals,” said Ed Burstell, senior vice president and gen- ers. There’s strong demand for unique pieces,” said jeweler Jacques An Lanh, citing eral merchandise manager of jewelry and accessories at Bergdorf Goodman. “We are as an example a giant wild Polynesian oyster pendant on a twisted pearl choker. “The looking seriously at Isabel Marant and Mawi for jewelry, and Stephane Verdino for more times are hard, the more retailers prefer standout pieces.” bags. Our favorite colors were those that were slightly off from a conventional palette: Jewelry exhibitor Helene Zubeldia said, “I was scared that retailers would zone in muted mustard, fl esh tones and a blue-green combo.” on the smaller pieces, but expensive, statement pieces have worked really well.” Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel, said, “We realize “We’ve moved our product on a level to a more luxury level and I feel like that that this fi nancial crisis will have an impact on spring, so every buy is strategic and with market hasn’t been affected,” said Tim Awan, director of high-end British jewelry a Bendel point of view. Tough chic accessories still remain strong in a lot of categories. brand Mawi, adding statement crystal pieces worked best. “We’ve been to New York, In particular, we liked belts and jewelry with silver studs, small spikes and chains.” London and Milan, which was particularly slow, but this is good. This is the show.” Maria Kerner, accessories buyer for Moscow department store Tsum, said, “Natural colors are big, as ready-to-wear featured lots of nude tones. I noticed lots of smaller…handbags. There’s defi nitely a more feminine, lady- like direction for spring.” Marcia Borg, owner of the 1,100-square-foot upscale fashion store Marcia’s Place in Florida, had increased her budget by 10 percent, spending on hats at Grevi, recycled wood eyewear ® at I-Wood and bags with ribbon trimming at Maria La Rosa. “We’re carrying more sure sells and adding just a couple of new labels,” she said. Buyers thronged around Barbara Rihl’s Italian leather handbags featuring playful, trav- el-inspired drawings. “You can still do very good business in the midst of the fi nan- cial crisis,” said Rihl, adding the brand’s biggest development is the Middle East and the Russian market. Plans include 10 corners in the Middle East, plus a corner at Moscow’s Tsum department store. The line, which retails be- tween 200 and 400 euros, or $270 and $540, also caught the eye of key U.S. department stores. Several exhibitors voiced concern for 2009, with retailers said to be wielding an iron grip on budgets. “I expected to be on a level with last season, but we will not make it,” said Vienna hatmaker Klaus Mühlbauer. “Despite im- proved exchange rates for the yen and dollar, it’s extremely tough, with buyers prioritizing entry lines. I’m concerned for the summer.” Citing a “brilliant winter sea- son,” with sales from its Vienna fl agship representing one third of the brand’s volume, Mühlbauer plans to develop its own store network to strengthen the com- pany’s positioning. The brand has opened a store in Salzburg, Austria, and is next eyeing Berlin and Tokyo. Doris Pang, commercial

A luggage- inspired bag by Barbara Rihl.

THE LEATHER HANDBAG COLLECTION 34 West 33rd Street, New York City 10001 Tel. 212.239.1888 Fax 212.239.0432 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM Tiffany’s Smaller Format Opens in Calif. By Rachel Brown The design, which was created by an in-house team led by Canavan and Inside and outside TIFFANY & CO. IS PUTTING ITS CON- architectural fi rm FRCH, is expected Tiffany’s new unit in temporary foot forward with a new small- to imbue the store with a “hushed el- Glendale, Calif. er retail format that opened Friday at the egance,” said Canavan. A neutral color lifestyle center Americana at Brand in palette adheres to browns, creams and Glendale, Calif. whites. Multicolored rosewood is used The 2,600-square-foot store spotlights on the exterior with glass and, along Tiffany pieces in a comfortable, airy en- with white oak, in interior furnishings vironment meant to exemplify the oppo- and display cases. The fl ooring is of ce- site of buttoned-down selling. Customers ramic stones and tan carpeting, and the are encouraged to try on the jewelry, with ceiling gold leaf. entry and middle price points ranging Tiffany’s signature blue is present on from $80 to $42,000 and averaging $200 to digital screens with soothing imagery, in $5,000. Engagement rings and statement glass in select displays on which jewelry is pieces, the steepest-priced category, set with the signature blue boxes. Robert aren’t available. DuGrenier designed two crystal chande- “Our whole intent is to zero in on the liers, and local artist Suzanne Erickson contemporary fashion collections and contributed two works of the abstract- showcase them in a more artful and ac- ed human form that can be draped cessible way,” said Beth O. Canavan, exec- with Tiffany pieces. utive vice president at Tiffany & Co. “We Along the store’s walls are said, ‘Take the blinders off. Forget about displays with a dominant Beth O. the rules for how we merchandise today. collection, including Frank Canavan Let’s think about how women shop.’” Gehry, Elsa Peretti and During the more than two years it took Paloma Picasso, that con- to develop the concept, the conclusion was tain items from other col- reached that women enjoy what Canavan lections to demonstrate described as “a sense of adventure” and to how jewelry can be mixed peruse wardrobe options when they shop. and matched. The store’s one that conveyed and also expect to attract a new custom- The standard Tiffany jewelry groupings by assortment includes Atlas, what we were try- er,” she said about the new concept. “We metal are abandoned in the store in favor 1837, Somerset, Hearts, ing to do,” said are going to be very careful and consider- of groupings by style and category. There Swing, Jazz, Metro, Jean Canavan. And she ate about placing these stores.” are displays featuring Tiffany’s array of Schlumberger and Diamonds noted that the new Across Tiffany’s retail portfolio of bangles and stackable rings, and a charm by the Yard pieces. Jewelry is store’s contents can be roughly 200 units, stores span from 1,300 bar, for example. openly exhibited on mountings, found in traditional Tiffany to 18,000 square feet, but average around under glass that’s not fully enclosed and stores and that products haven’t 7,100 square feet. A 5,000-square-foot in drawers that customers are invited to specifi cally been crafted for the concept. concept was introduced early in the de- open. “What it becomes is an evolution of Although Canavan said the current cade and, since fi scal year 2001, most the jewelry box,” said Canavan. economic situation wasn’t a factor in new stores have been in the 5,000- to Store employees, about 11 of whom Tiffany’s decision to move forward with 6,000-square-foot range. That concept is man the Glendale location at any given the smaller concept, she hinted the store estimated to bring in sales of $1,000 per time to inform customers they can handle could be attractive to consumers search- square foot, which Canavan said the new the jewelry, have been schooled as jew- ing for lower-priced items. The grim eco- concept should reach “at least.” elry stylists, according to Canavan. nomic news hasn’t altered the rollout While visiting the concept store Tiffany set up a prototype of the new strategy, she said. In addition to outdoor Thursday morning, Rick Caruso, presi- concept store in its New Jersey distribu- lifestyle centers, she believes the concept dent and chief executive offi cer of Caruso tion center for months before it was un- could be appropriate for malls and street Affiliated, developer of Americana at veiled last week. Focus groups conduct- retail districts as standalones. Tiffany Brand, expressed satisfaction with what ed at the mock-up revealed that women has identifi ed 70 potential locations and he saw. “For the fi rst time, they have bro- who had been to a Tiffany store before has outlined plans to open three to fi ve ken down the barriers so you can touch “thought that most of the [contempo- of the new concept stores annually; how- and try on,” he said. “It meets the needs rary] jewelry was brand new to Tiffany,” ever, Canavan anticipated two would bow of the market out here.” according to Canavan. “They said they in 2009 and three or four in 2010. For the second quarter ended July would continue to be a good customer The concept stores will be 2,000 to 31, Tiffany’s net earnings rose 21 per- at the [traditional] store, but they would 3,000 square feet and located in Tiffany’s cent to $80.8 million. Worldwide sales come here when they were shopping for existing markets. Canavan predicted a jumped 11 percent to $732.4 million, themselves,” she reported. bit of cannibalization with established driven by strong demand in Europe and Tiffany considered naming the con- Tiffany stores in a market for the fi rst Asia, where sales increased 35 percent cept something other than Tiffany & Co. year or so, but after that, forecasts that and 17 percent, respectively. Sales in the and dubbed it “collection store” inter- these stores will garner a broader cus- Americas climbed 3 percent, but com- nally, among other titles. “We studied tomer base overall in the area. “We ex- parable same-store sales in the U.S. de-

PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY so many different names. There was not pect to see some of our current customers clined 4 percent for the quarter.

MEMO PAD ran the National Enquirer and had the “The theme will still be ‘Vampires and COMING TO AMERICA: European designers title of executive vice president of AMI Victims,’ but with an oh-so-appropriate are choosing U.S. locales such as Los THE BELL TOLLS: Talk about a tough day for News, will be in charge, and by press ‘funeral’ spin.” Angeles, New York and Miami over places the magazine industry Friday, with Radar time it appeared that none of the roughly As for 02138, the Harvard-themed closer to home to shoot their spring and 02138 — two marginal but ambitious half-dozen full-time staffers on Radar’s magazine originally launched by David campaigns. While in New York for Chanel’s titles — announcing their ends, and twice- current Web site would be retained. All Bradley’s Atlantic Media in 2006 and sold Mobile Art exhibition and for Fashion yearly Elle Accessories going on hiatus. magazine employees, estimated by a earlier this year to Manhattan Media, it Group International’s Night of Stars, Karl The never-say-die print edition of Radar, staffer to be about 16 on the editorial had been staffi ng up for a relaunch in Lagerfeld had plans to shoot campaigns which relaunched for yet a third time and art departments, were dismissed, and December under the oversight of editorial for Fendi and Chanel. Last week, Steven promising to fi ll an already well-served Roshan was thought to be among them. director David Blum. In a statement, chief Meisel shot Lanvin in New York and Inez niche of “pop culture for smart people” He did not return messages on Friday, nor executive offi cer Tom Allon wrote, “While van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin also (as it explained on a recent cover) lost the did Perel. Manhattan Media, and its fi nancial were in town for Givenchy. Liya Kebede and confi dence of its investors, private equity Radar’s circulation was not released backer, Isis Venture Partners, are Raquel Zimmerman, the faces for Lanvin for fi rm Integrity Multimedia Co. Editor in chief in the Audit Bureau of Circulations committed to long-term growth capital, fall, will not be back for spring. Maer Roshan told the New York Observer reports, nor were its ad pages tracked by the funds needed to execute our strategic It’s said van Lamsweerde and Matadin Friday, “You’re dealing with independent the Publishers’ Information Bureau. But vision would by necessity have grown also shot Yves Saint Laurent in Los Angeles investors and they saw the market and the title was a fi nalist for the National signifi cantly and beyond the company’s with a very “California theme” a few they were fearful about the future.” When Magazine Award for General Excellence risk/return profi le.” weeks ago, but a spokeswoman said the Radar relaunched in mid-2006, IMC’s this year, for circulation between 100,000 Then there’s Elle Accessories, which shoot hasn’t been confi rmed. Up next: Yusef Jackson publicly promised fi ve years and 250,000. Roshan said in his editor’s was headed by Elle fashion news editor Versace will head to Los Angeles in early of funding, though perhaps Roshan had letter in the 96-page October/November Anne Slowey, and is being seriously scaled November for its ad campaign, to be shot learned to take that with a grain of salt after issue that the Web site was attracting more back, with four freelancers who worked by Mario Testino, and Gucci is rumored to his fi rst two rounds. than a million unique visitors and fi ve on it being let go, according to a source be in Miami this week. As one insider put Radar isn’t totally gone, however. The million page views every month. According at the company. There is talk of waiting it, the U.S. may be the popular spot for Web site, radaronline.com, which had to Nielsen Online, the most recent fi gures out the recession and returning for a fall ad campaigns this season because places functioned as a daily news and gossip for September showed Radar Online 2009 issue (if the economic downturn is such as Los Angeles and Miami have the blog and always seemed the more vibrant garnering approximately 1.1 million unique over by then), although a spokeswoman best light and weather this time of year. entity, will live on in a different form, visitors and 2.1 million page views. for Hachette Filipacchi could not answer Meanwhile, a few others wondered if under a partnership with debt-laden Radar’s planned Halloween party questions by press time. Slowey, of course, Barack Obama’s talk of change is exciting American Media Inc., probably as a at the new club Citrine is still on for also has a TV gig on the new reality show Europeans to shoot in the U.S. Or maybe TMZ-like celebrity site. David Perel, who Thursday. According to a spokeswoman, “Stylista.” — Irin Carmon it’s just less expensive. — Amy Wicks WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 17 WWD.COM Cole at 25: Making a Difference By Whitney Beckett ROBERT REDFORD, ON KEEPING SPEECH FREE: AFTER 25 YEARS IN BUSINESS, KENNETH If reporters hadn’t been really aggressive during Watergate Cole’s spelling may not have improved, but his and“ the Nixon administration had gotten away with its illegal writing has become more prolific and his call to social activism beats as strong as ever. activities, who knows what we would have lost over the

As part of his brand’s silver anniversary, JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY course of time. I think it spared us from the loss of our First Cole is publishing “Awearness: Inspiring Amendment rights. So, in 1976, I made ‘All the President’s Stories About How to Make a Difference” (Melcher Media), with contributions from 86 Men’ — not just because it was a great story from an celebrities, politicians and ordinary people. entertainment perspective, but also because it was a story “The underlying message here is no good that most people didn’t know. You just looked at that moment deed goes unpublished,” said Cole, ever a pun practitioner. “The goal was to make this action- in history and thought, ‘God, we came so close. ’ able, accessible, sustainable and transforma- ” tional. At the end of each chapter is a ‘how to’ and a ‘where to.’ There’s an underlying call to MELISSA ETHERIDGE, ON MAKING POLITICS PERSONAL: action: How to make a difference.” Lance Armstrong discusses mobilizing a move- My political side has always been there out of necessity. I ment, like he did with Livestrong, the yellow “fi ght for gay rights because I’m gay; I fi ght for women’s rights bracelets supporting cancer survivors. Jon Bon because I’m a woman. Jovi, who has partnered with Cole on products Kenneth Cole benefi ting the homeless, talks about the problem ” of homelessness and poverty. Robert Redford dis- cusses the need to preserve free speech, which he ELIZABETH EDWARDS, ON CHANGING THE FACE has heralded in his movies. Mayor Michael Bloomberg writes about public health policy initiatives, such as his antismoking ban in New York City (see book excerpts at right). OF CANCER: Eighty-two more individuals share their social issue passions — political activism, human We should rebel against the disease, but not against rights, civil liberties, homelessness and poverty, well-being, HIV/AIDS, criminal justice, the envi- “discussing it. It’s important to talk about cancer without ronment, education and youth and volunteerism — in the book’s 256 pages. Each issue-dedicated chapter concludes with ways to support its cause, as well as groups and Web sites dedicated to cleansing the language. If you are receiving radiation, and that issue, in hopes of mobilizing readers. your blisters are oozing through your clothes, just talk about When the 25,000 copies of the paperback (printed on recycled paper) go on sale next month for it. I don’t see the advantage in pretending I’m untouched by $25 each, 100 percent of the net proceeds will support the Awearness Fund, which Cole founded last year to support service, volunteerism and social change. It’s all part of a larger initiative the disease.” called “Awearness-Kenneth Cole.” Having a stake in social issues is not new to Cole, who is the chairman of amfAR, and a board member of HELP USA, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the Sundance Institute. ALAN CUMMING, ON DEMANDING EQUAL RIGHTS: His ads for his fashion brand have famously focused as much on social issues as on the product. “Over the years, we’ve tried to address two very different yet common themes: a fashion voice We should not sit back and accept the ‘all social change takes and a social voice,” Cole said. “One of the reasons we started Awearness is that the social mes- “time’ adage. Why the hell should it? It is time for change. People sage has become even more defi ning than the fashion message, and it needed to be compartmen- talized. Outside the retail environment, people know the social message more than the fashion aren’t fully cognizant of the lack of rights queer people have. If message. We tried to fi nd a separate place here for the social voice, where it can exist indepen- you were to replace gay with Jew or black and then tell everyone dently but in harmony with the fashion voice of the company.” what rights and protections we are denied, there would be At the same time, the company is carving out areas within its stores dedicated to the Awearness initiative. The fi rst 150-square-foot area will be installed front and center in the Grand Central a revolution! Terminal store in New York the fi rst week of November. The shop-in-shops will sell products that ” benefi t the Awearness Fund, and will provide computer kiosks to signsign ontoonto thethe WebWe site to donate to the Network for Good or join ASHLEY JUDD, ON EMPOWERING WOMEN: thethe AwearnAwearnesse Alliance, which the fi rm defi nes as a commu- nity strivistriving to make a difference through service. I believe that gender inequality is at the root of chronic TheThe WebW site, which already includes blogs about social “poverty. In many areas of developing nations, women don’t have issues,issues, is playing a central role in the Awearness initia- enough status to get an education or own property. We must tive.tive. OriginallyOr launching as kennethcole.com/awearness onon Nov.Nov 5, the cause’s Web site is relaunching not only legally, economically and sexually empower girls and women with withwith a second domain name (awearness.com), but also lasting solutions to the problem of poverty. withwit additionala merchandise benefi ting the Awearness ” FundFunnd — beyond current limitedlim offerings that include T-shirtsT-shirts with social messages,m of which $10 ben- efiefi ts thethe Awearness Fund. JON BON JOVI, ON RETHINKING HOMELESSNESS The site also will match IN AMERICA: AllianceA members with vol- unteerun opportunities through [Homelessness is] not a disease. This is something that technologyte from Volunteer “we, the collective we, can really take hold of and make a Match,Ma and track how many hourshou the Alliance members, difference….The cure is here — it is our education, money, plusplu Kenneth Cole employees effort and desire. andand sales associates, volunteer ” toto measureme the impact. Alliance membersmem will also get advan- tages,tages such as use of the Kenneth LAUREN BUSH, ON WORLD HUNGER: ColeCole storess to host fund-raising World hunger is a massive, seemingly intangible issue, but in andand recruitingre events. “fact it kills more people than AIDS, malaria and TB combined. ColeCole — who knows many of thethe cocontributorsn through amfAR, Even though there is enough food in the world to feed everyone, SundanceSundan or through personal con- there are such inequities in the food systems in our own nectionsnections (several of his in-laws, the Cuomos, contribute to the book) — backyards and abroad. hopeshopes thethe Web site will continue the ” dialoguesdialogues started in the book. “As“As thisth journey started, and SIR ELTON JOHN, ON GIVING BACK: IIask asked peoppeople to write a story about an issue they caredcared about,about, thoseth less than a dozen stories became 86 In 1992, I decided to bring focus to all of my AIDS-related stories, andand theythe could have become 860 stories in more “work by establishing the Elton John AIDS Foundation. After months,”months,” CCole said. “The goal is to continue the dis- years of reckless behavior and drug addiction, I felt a huge cussion virtually.” The company is feting the book with a party responsibility to make up for lost time and give back to anyone atat thethe Kenneth Cole New York store in Grand living with or affected by the disease. CentralCent Terminal on Nov. 12, with several of ” For more, see thethe book’sb contributors. Cole hopes to host WWD.com. moremore of such events throughout the country, in- cludingcludi in San Francisco on Nov. 17 with Mayor RUSSELL SIMMONS, ON CIVIC DUTY: ▲ TheThe book and KKennethenneth GavinGavin Newsom, who wrote an essay in the book, Whatever it is you possess, your talent or whatever you have Colee merchandise benefi tingting andand inin Boston on Nov. 19 with the founders of “to give, you have to learn to make it useful. the AwearnessAwearness FFund.und. Service Nation. ” 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM Grasse Fragrance Museum Reopens Inter Parfums Net Sales Up 21% Chanel Launches New York-based Inter Parfums Inc. reported net GRASSE, France — The newly sales increased by 21 percent during the third renovated Musée International The Musée International de quarter to $123.5 million, from $102.3 million in Ukraine Boutique la Parfumerie in Grasse. de la Parfumerie here has re- the same period a year ago. At constant exchange, By Miles Socha opened after a four-year ex- revenues during the quarter ended Sept. 30 would pansion project that doubled have risen 16 percent. PARIS — Chanel, which will stage a its size to 3,500 square meters, Sales from the fi rm’s European operations were Paris-Moscow themed collection of or 37,674 square feet. up 23 percent during the period to $108.8 million, ready-to-wear here in December, is The renovation of the muse- from $88.1 million a year ago. also on the move in the Ukraine. um, which was established in Inter Parfums’ U.S. operations generated sales The French luxury fi rm recently its current space in 1989, cost of $14.7 million, a 4 percent rise from $14.2 million opened its fi rst freestanding boutique of 11.3 million euros, or $14.5 last year. The increase was driven by the nationwide in the Eastern European nation: a million at current exchange. rollout of Gap fragrances and personal care products, 3,100-square-foot unit in the luxury During festivities at an which are produced by the fi rm, and international shopping mall Mandarin Plaza. Oct. 18 opening event, sing- sales of Gap and Banana Republic products. “Our visibility is truly exception- ers and dancers in traditional JACQUES PENON PHOTO BY During the fi rst nine months of the year, net sales al: Coming from the Kreschatik [a Provençal costume enter- A Merle came in at $345.8 million, a 28 percent increase from prime shopping street], you see only tained visitors who included Norman $270.2 million last year. the entrance of the Chanel boutique Jean-Claude Ellena, in-house Adoration — Matthew W. Evans in the middle of the square,” said perfumer at Hermès, as well perfume Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president as executives from Chanel, bottle Regis Corp. Profi ts Down 29.7% of fashion. Christian Dior, Guerlain and from Chanel fragrances and beauty Thierry Mugler. 1940. First-quarter profi ts at salon operator Regis Corp. products have been present in the The museum, which is in the were off 29.7 percent to $14.5 million, or 34 cents Ukraine since 1995, but this marks city at the heart of the French a diluted share, from $20.6 million, or 46 cents a the fi rst time ready-to-wear, acces- perfume industry, includes ter- share, in the year-ago period. sories and fi ne jewelry are available. race gardens of botanicals used Excluding $3.9 million in pretax costs from a The new boutique dedicates some as ingredients in fragrances, re-branding of its Trade Secret locations and lease 850 square feet to watches and fi ne such as bigarade, a bitter or- terminations for 21 salons, earnings per share jewelry. (A multibrand retailer, Royal ange and jasmine sambac from would have exceeded by a penny Wall Street ana- Time, also carries Chanel watches.) Southeast Asia. Interactive fea- BEAUTY BEAT lysts’ estimates of 38 cents a share. Pavlovsky said the company’s tures include multimedia sta- While the company acknowledged the current Ukrainian customers are dedicated fol- tions and there is an array of antique and modern perfume bottles, including economic environment has impacted same-store lowers of fashion, know the brand well Marie Antoinette’s nécessaire, or vanity case. The intricate wooden box contains sales, which as previously reported were down 1.6 and favor sophisticated and trendy multiple perfume bottles, a silver bed warming pan and tea service. percent in the quarter, revenues from hair servic- pieces. Bestsellers since the opening There are also scent-inspired installations by contemporary artists. es in locations opened for more than a year were include “everything which is trendy But it’s not all about the eyes — the museum does offer aromas on de- up 0.4 percent. and Chanel-oriented,” in particular the mand. Curator Marie-Christine Grasse contended museumgoers should be The fi rm, which owns, franchises or holds a stake house’s signature two-tone shoes. able to choose whether they want to smell violet in the room featuring Marie in more than 13,500 locations worldwide, is forecast- “Today it is a country with a strong Antoinette or incense by the antiquities cases. Visitors can also attend a per- ing second-quarter sales in the $700 million to $715 potential and it still has a lot of en- fume atelier to sniff the elements that make up a fragrance. million range. ergy and dynamism,” Pavlovsky said — Susan Stone — M.W.E. of the Ukraine. FASHION SCOOPS NOT FOR SALE: Tory Burch said her hot apparel and accessories in April. Michael Thompson shot Parker for a TV and print PARTY CRAWL: Those not attending the Fashion Group company isn’t on the block. Although the designer conceded campaign; national print ads will break in March magazines, International’s awards Thursday evening had no shortage of “we’re talking to some people,” without elaborating, she while TV dates are still being determined. other party options at their disposal. First stop for many was quickly added, “but the company is not for sale.” Sources said the Hermès store on Madison Avenue for cocktails to celebrate in July the New York-based fi rm, which is estimated to generate PARTYING LIKE IT’S 1999: Though it might seem like an Kelly Klein’s new book, “Horse,” which features photographs as much as $200 million in wholesale volume annually, was undesirable time to open a store, the scene at Hugo Boss’ new by the likes of Helmut Newton, Bruce Weber, Richard Prince shopping around a 30 percent stake. The asking price — before Meatpacking District outpost Thursday resembled a pre-fi nancial and Ellen von Unwerth. A group of NYPD cavalry acted as the devastating declines in global stocks — was said to be crisis bash. Young members of the fashion fl ock like Julia Restoin a receiving line for guests such as Tory Burch, Calvin Klein, $935 million to $1 billion self-valuation for the entire company Roitfeld, Chris Benz and Peaches Geldof danced to the turntable Narciso Rodriguez and Aerin Lauder. Inside, a black Hermès- and about $300 million for a 30 percent stake. Appearing at a stylings of Alexandra and Theodora Richards, while an eclectic clad Klein worked her table signing copy after copy. “I’ve been private shopping party benefi ting the New Profi t Inc. charities mix of Hollywood headliners including Maggie Gyllenhaal, Brooke asked to do a book on horses for awhile and put it off and put it at Saks Fifth Avenue Boston on Shields, Mena Suvari, Stephen off,” explained the avid equestrian, who rides almost every day Wednesday night, Burch, citing Richard Prince with his wife, Noel, Baldwin and Cuba Gooding Jr. at her Bridgehampton home. “I wanted to give it an edge and the economy, said, “I’m looking and Stefano Pilati (center). were ushered upon entering to a show some sexy pictures and extremes.” at every aspect of the business makeshift VIP area in the back A block away, the Associates Committee of the Fountain House differently because of it. I don’t of the 14th Street boutique. Fall Fete gathered at the Valentino boutique for drinks before think women want to be over-the- Shields, for her part, put a positive heading to the Racquet and Tennis Club for dinner and dancing. top anymore. They want something spin on the occasion’s somewhat And in SoHo, Susan Sarandon and Eva Amurri helped host that’s chic and elegant, but not awkward timing. “It’s very brave the opening of the fi rst New York outpost of hip French brand such a big statement.” of Hugo Boss to open a store Comptoir des Cotonniers. “I’ve been a fan of their clothes and now. It’s like my show [‘Lipstick am excited to have a store in New York,” said Amurri. “The LITTLE PRINCE: “I don’t really do Jungle’] — some people look at it clothes are such a high quality, but reasonably priced.” After contemporary art. I collect early and say ‘Why?’ But in these times perusing the signature cotton trenches and cool basics, a mix 20th century works, but Richard you need a break from CNN,” the of editors and Francophiles enjoyed dinner in the garden of and I are old friends,” said Bryan actress said. “It’s a little different nearby Raoul’s. Ferry, who hobnobbed with arty in my case because TV is free.” types at the opening of Richard Gyllenhaal, meanwhile, showed MOSCHINO’S MANSE: The fi rst Moschino hotel is taking shape.

Prince’s exhibition Thursday night at STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY her attention to the economy by The Italian luxury brand unveiled mock-up rooms of the hotel Paris’ Galerie Patrick Seguin. “It’s a sporting a high-low mix of the during TTG Incontri, Italy’s leading trade show for the tourism nod to Louis Vuitton, who made a nod to me,” said Prince of one brand’s suit and a necklace that “my mother gave to me. She industry, which started Friday. The Moschino hotel is expected fi berglass nurse hat chair, part of his fi rst collection of furniture got it at a fl ea market in London.” to open in 2009 in partnership with Hotelphilosophy SpA, that was unveiled at the event. Later, at a dinner atop the Centre Mobygest Group in a former neoclassical railway station, which Pompidou, the artist said that, in addition to his upcoming ONE AND ONLY: While H&M is known for its collaborations with dates back to 1840, in Milan’s Viale Monte Grappa, near the exhibition at New York’s Gagosian Gallery based on “black and top designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Comme trendy Corso Como area. Rossella Jardini, creative director of white people on the same page,” he’s customizing a 1970 des Garçons, things are a little different in the new store in the maison, is in charge of the hotel concept, which revolves Dodge Charger driven by Dennis Hopper in “Blue Velvet.” “I was Berlin’s hip Hackescher Markt neighborhood. In a one-of-a- around a fairy-tale theme. “‘To sleep is perchance to dream,’ also approached [for a project with] Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, kind collaboration with the young Berlin designer duo C.neeon, and dreams are fairy tales that we are allowed to experience but I’m not going there; there’s no connection for me,” he H&M is offering 300 limited edition T-shirts in their signature fi rst hand, the fables of a fantasy world that we have created,” drawled. Meanwhile Paris-based interior designer India Mahdavi, geometric patterns. The said Jardini. “This is an clutching an oversize Richard Prince for Louis Vuitton bag, said T-shirts retail for 24.99 alternate life in which we direct she’s working on a new bistro concept with Thierry Costes, due to euros, or about $34.50 and stage the scripts of our open on Rue de Buci. “There’ll be twisted design elements. It’s at current exchange, Moschino unveiled very own play.” For example, going to be a bit baroque, a bit rock ’n’ roll,” she said. Charlotte and all proceeds will go mock-up rooms in a bedroom, the chandelier Sarkozy, who’s married to Nicolas Sarkozy’s half-brother Olivier, to Berliner Tafel e.V., a of its hotel. is embellished with red rose said she was in Paris for a vacation. Asked if she’d be visiting charity which provides petals. Below, the bed’s coverlet any family, she said: “I think the president’s a bit busy.” food for the homeless. is made with red rose petals “It all started when that appear to have fallen from AT THIS MOMENT: Sarah Jessica Parker is tackling time with they asked us if we could the lamp. In the hall, lamps her new scent collection, Lovely Moments. The collection will do some illustrations for are made to look like clouds. include three fragrances based on different expressions of the walls, and then came Jardini said that, in the hotel, time — Dawn, Endless and Twilight — and will launch on HSN the idea for the charity “the ordinary world is painted in February, to be followed by a one-month brick-and-mortar T-shirts,” said C.neeon with a brush of surrealism,” exclusive in Ulta. The scents will enter full global distribution designer Doreen Schulz. in line with Moschino’s ADVERTISEMENT K BELL

CHINESE LAUNDRY SOXLAND

K BELL legwear keeps on kicking A VARIETY OF FACTORS COMBINE TO BOOST THE CATEGORY

It goes without patterned tights remain a constant while tunics saying that every- worn over leggings in solids and prints look strong one’s watching for Spring-Summer ’09. the economy “The big trend, simply, is that legwear is closely these becoming more fashionable. So much so days. It’s a that we’re starting to see more legwear in the challenging en- Spring,” said Robert Sussman, who believes vironment and lightweight leggings and oversized tops will consumers, play a big role next year. retailers and For Karen Bell, it’s all about “tights, tights, manufacturers tights.” Historically, tights were five- to 10 percent are all being of K Bell’s business, but now they account for a cautious quarter of sales. The company offers tights in 15 about the colors and several different patterns and textures commit- as well as three size programs. “Sales are off the

ments charts phenomenal. We’ve had a huge increase INJINJI they make. in our basic sock business, too.” But, as always, Susan Reese, vp of sales and marketing at there are bright spots. For a variety of reasons Soxland, also sees socks playing a strong fash- STRONG ALL YEAR – including the economic slowdown – legwear ion role in the Spring, particularly lighter-weight Taking the legwear business into Spring and is one of those bright spots. socks and socks in “nude shades or colors that Summer is a top objective for manufactur- “In a tough economy, people aren’t neces- coordinate back to the outfit. We’ve had some ers, but not the only one they’re pursuing. sarily buying a lot of new clothing, but they of our more fashion-forward accounts asking At Soxland, the emphasis is on Holiday with will buy fashion legwear and accessories to for the scrunchy, slouched-look sock, but in a offerings throughout the year, but especially at accent their current wardrobe,” said Rob- very fine gauge and higher needle count than in Christmas. “That part of our business remains ert Sussman, president of Chinese Laundry the ’80s. It’s a more polished look.” very strong,” said Susan Reese. “We do it with Legwear. With 15 years in the such whimsy, it really shows in our collec- business, Sussman speaks from K BELL tion. Buyers and consumers both say ‘that experience, but also from the is so adorable, I just have to have it.’” standpoint that his company’s In addition to new designs, Soxland is of- early sales are trending up, with fering multi-pair packs for the upcoming holi- strong initial Fall business. days with three different socks of the same Legwear’s relatively low cost theme – all Halloween or all Christmas, for definitely makes a difference to the example. Reese said the multi-pack offers consumer according to Karen Bell, multiple benefits. “It’s less packaging owner of manufacturer K Bell. “Leg- per item so that helps save money. And, wear is a low price-point item and because it’s a low-ticket item, the odds everybody is grabbing those to change are good that the consumer will pick up an outfit.” Like Sussman, Bell bases her a two- or three-pack, meaning the retailer view, in part, on the success her com- makes a multiple sale. Since retailers pany is enjoying. “We have actually had anticipate reduced traffic this season, 15- to 25-percent increases for the last getting more sales from each customer three years in a row.” is that much more important.” Of course, fashion trends have also been an Chinese Laundry is trying a differ- enormous boon for legwear in recent years and ent approach. According to Robert all indications are that those trends will contin- Sussman, the company has added ue. For the current Fall-Winter season, dresses sport socks as well as a whole line of showing off legs adorned in colored and foot covers and cushioned slipper socks. ADVERTISEMENT

K BELL CHINESE LAUNDRY A customer might wear them when she’s out and about or when she’s home and just needs something on her foot. These are new for us and we’ve gotten a very good reaction.” The company also plans to debut a kids’ line for Spring ’09.

GREEN IS GOLD Many legwear manufacturers are taking notice of the public’s focus on the environment and those that are are being rewarded for their ef- forts. At Soxland, Susan Reese is very ex- cited about the company’s new Greenology line of SOXLAND socks. “We launched Greenology at MAGIC and it was very well received. People are interested on every level about green – from the manufacturing to the product itself.” Reese reports that socks in the Greenology line are made from bamboo yarn while the pack- aging uses recycled paper. In addition, “we’re using the sock as a platform to teach people how they can help make a greener environment. We highlighted four subjects: global warming, recycling, endangered species and ‘go organ- ic.’” The design motif of the sock relates to the subject. For example, organic vegetables are knit into the “go organic” socks and dolphins adorn the endangered species sock. “It was quite a challenge for the designers, but everything has turned out great. People love the bamboo yarn – the idea of it, the hand, the fact that it doesn’t take much out of the environ- ment compared to what it puts back.” Retail- ers picking up the Greenology line, which will start to ship in November, include the Paradies Shops and, not surprisingly given the theme, the San Diego Zoo gift shops. Karen Bell at K Bell also reports a strong com- mitment to green initiatives. “We’re doing it in a big way. We continue to have our sourcing people a distributor now in France who just picked cessful because they are willing to take the seek out eco-friendly yarns and packaging. We’ve up three department stores in Europe and challenge of trying a new brand.” had a huge increase in our natural fibers – including a retailer in London who’s buying from us. Besides focusing on their Holiday bamboo, cotton and some of our wool blends – for There are a lot of opportunities SOXLAND collection and launching the Spring. We spend a lot of money there because we and we’re really eager to become Greenology line, Soxland expects think it is extremely important and that consumers a global force.” to grow, in part, due to the efforts really demand it now.” Chinese Laundry is mak- of its larger sales force. “We’re (See “Sustainable Performance” for details about ing a move on the international very happy,” said Susan Reese. Invista’s green efforts.) front, too, by selling into China, “The new energy is great and Japan and Europe, but Suss- it’s always helpful to have more PLANS FOR GROWTH man also wants to expand people as sounding boards.” New products are always a key element of any more in the U.S. “We currently In short, more frugal consumers, plan for growth, but so is expanded distribution, sell to more than 250 specialty new products, an increased and legwear manufacturers work hard to grow stores nationwide, but we’re emphasis on eco-friendly products their business that way, too. going after even more, and expanded distribution are “We’re taking on more and more international including mom-and-pop all contributing to help legwear distribution,” said Karen Bell. “For example, we have stores that are suc- manufacturers step lively these days.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

Chinese Laundry Legwear Invista K Bell Soxland 350 Fifth Avenue Three Little Falls Centre 215 S. Douglas Street 7 West 36th Street, 7th Floor New York, NY 10118 2801 Centerville Road El Segundo, CA 90245 New York, NY 10018 212-947-5151 Wilmington, DE 19808 Karen Bell, founder Susan Reese, vice president Robert Sussman, president John Haigh, NA marketing 310-670-3235 sales and merchandising [email protected] manager, legwear www.kbellsocks.com 212-679-4588 www.chineselaundrysocks.com [email protected] www.soxland.com www.invista.com

ADVERTISEMENT sustainable performance

A SMALLER FOOTPRINT FOR SOCKS

In fact, according to John Haigh, NA marketing manager, legwear, ® INJINJI COOLMAX EcoTech™ fiber “generated more traffic than I can ever Long recognized for its commitment to recall.” That’s saying quite innovation and market insight, INVISTA — a lot considering that, one of the world’s largest integrated fiber and over the years, INVISTA – polymers businesses — introduced a new with a portfolio of brands fiber at this summer’s Outdoor Retailer show including such well-known in Salt Lake City that garnered intense interest. names as LYCRA® fiber, Cordura® fabric, Dacron® fiber and Supplex® fabric, “ COOLMAX® EcoTech™ among many others – has fabric not only makes earned a reputation for INJINJI a great high-performance exciting new products. sock, it also helps The original COOLMAX® plastic bottles. That makes it the first INVISTA respond to the world’s fabric was introduced in 1980 and has been a innovation for legwear that’s been designed and need for environmentally favorite with professional and amateur athletes engineered to reduce its environmental impact by sustainable products.” for its performance capabilities, including built-in incorporating recycled raw materials that would moisture wicking, drying and abrasion resistance. otherwise end up in landfills. Shane Cooper What makes COOLMAX® EcoTech™ fabric so But that’s not the only benefit. According President, DeFeet special? In short, the fiber is made from recycled to Dr. Gregory Weeks, technical manager for

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legwear development at the INVISTA Applied Research Laboratory in Newark, Delaware, From Plastic Bottle to Sock: DeFeet manufacturing COOLMAX™ EcoTech™ fabric “uses a minimum of 70 percent less energy How Does when compared to polyester made from virgin oil-based raw materials. Instead of taking oil it Work? out of the ground to make a polyester polymer, you’re reusing a product. In doing that, we’re also COOLMAX® EcoTech™ fiber is made reducing greenhouse gas emissions by at least like this: plastic bottles are collected, 50 percent.” cleaned and ground into flakes. The flakes are then converted into chips Those are precisely the reasons that North and the chips are made into fiber that’s Carolina-based athletic sock manufacturer spun into yarn suitable for apparel. DeFeet jumped at the chance to work with COOLMAX® EcoTech™ fabric. “We’ve been working with the COOLMAX® brand for 17 the Performance series,” explained Jan Kimbrell, years,” said DeFeet’s President Shane Cooper. vice president of sales at Injinji. “Thanks to a “In fact, we started our company because successful combination of COOLMAX® EcoTech™ COOLMAX® fabric was invented. We’ve always technology and Injinji’s patented technology, the been impressed by their latest innovation, but Rainbow offers a fun hue without compromising we thought they really hit the nail on the head performance attributes.” with this one because it not only makes a great For now, COOLMAX® EcoTech™ fabric is high-performance sock, it also helps respond to available only in socks, but INVISTA’s plan is the world’s need for environmentally sustainable that, before long, it will be used to manufacture products.” activewear as well. Certainly it won’t be a Another company that’s started working with shortage of raw materials holding them back: it’s COOLMAX® EcoTech™ fiber is Injinji. Maker of estimated that more than 20 billion plastic water the patented Performance toesocks™, Injinji bottles end up in landfills every year. is introducing the revival of classic Rainbow Other legwear innovations from INVISTA toesocks made from COOLMAX® EcoTech™ fiber. include COOLMAX® XtraLife fabric, COOLMAX® DeFeet ® 'REEN“OurOLOGY customers77$?3OXLAND havePDF been asking for colors!- in with WOOL fabric and the LYCRA fiber brand. 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008

Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. Caché Posts Loss in 3rd Qtr. WEEKLY STOCKS 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT By Alexandra Steigrad High Low Companies P/E Last Change High Low Companies P/E Last Change 84.54 25.10 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 5.0 18261532 25.01 -4.99 51.96 15.31 J. Crew (JCG) 10.6 6793830 16.89 -1.90 CACHÉ INC. SWUNG TO A LOSS IN THE THIRD quarter as consumers tightened spending on discre- 28.23 15.08 Acadia (AKR) 12.4 1932465 14.97 -3.59 57.49 18.03 J.C. Penney (JCP) 4.7 30073491 18.90 -2.19 tionary items. 3.78 0.77 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 379864 0.79 -0.05 7.70 4.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 2319 5.99 1.97 For the quarter ended Sept. 27, the New York- 37.40 20.27 Aéropostale (ARO) 11.3 13501723 20.76 -3.43 1.67 0.60 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 7.3 429452 0.76 0.02 based 295-unit specialty chain had a net loss of $1.6 29.40 21.75 Alberto Culver (ACV) 19.3 5735725 21.67 -2.11 23.08 7.96 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 16048827 8.35 -1.58 million, or 12 cents a diluted share, compared with 16.80 5.00 American Apparel (APP) 14.7 1382264 5.11 -0.90 50.58 18.81 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 8.2 2700164 22.39 -3.04 net income of $161,000, or 1 cent a share, for the same 24.65 9.10 American Eagle (AEO) 6.3 31468402 9.90 -0.14 20.43 8.92 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 490783 9.85 -0.71 period last year. The loss in the 2008 quarter included 33.28 13.08 Ann Taylor (ANN) 8.9 8349973 12.87 -1.87 47.80 16.86 Kimco Realty (KIM) 15.5 37917333 18.50 -6.13 store closing costs of 2 cents a share. Net sales fell 4 5.71 1.42 Ashworth (ASHW) - 3183733 1.82 0.02 58.09 27.10 Kohl’s (KSS) 8.9 43639630 27.36 -3.13 percent to $58.1 million, from $60.6 million in the 2007 420.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 32.7 3665781 226.75 -38.25 23.40 12.05 K-Swiss (KSWS) 9.7 1113274 12.10 -2.29 period, and same-store sales declined 4 percent. 45.34 25.09 Avon (AVP) 16.5 28423230 24.42 -4.53 18.98 11.97 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 12.8 14417 15.10 -0.84 The revenue results were in line with analysts’ expectations and the loss slightly smaller than the 14.78 6.31 Bebe (BEBE) 9.6 3400059 6.29 -0.60 22.43 10.48 Limited Brands (LTD) 6.6 27609152 10.51 -1.90 13-cent consensus provided by Yahoo Finance. 56.72 32.32 Beiersdorf * (BEI:HM) 16.6 4882412 38.30 -0.83 30.87 7.07 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 18244686 6.95 -3.42 Gross margin declined to 44.1 percent of sales from 13.30 4.80 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 7.1 733090 5.68 -0.44 7.05 0.40 LJ Intl. (JADE) 1.3 1088659 0.38 -0.21 45.7 percent in the year-ago period, and average inven- 6.53 0.80 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 2.1 2220 0.84 0.04 99.97 57.22 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 13.7 9530265 62.84 -0.47 tory per store was down 16 percent, the company said. 44.29 26.36 BJs (BJ) 15.6 7198883 31.17 -3.13 55.03 10.85 Lululemon (LULU) 18.1 3939471 11.02 -2.74 “As we anticipated, our third-quarter results were 0.29 0.09 Blue (BLHI) - 375592 0.21 -0.02 26.66 12.87 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 14.3 4696452 14.22 -0.73 negatively affected by the challenging economy, which 9.50 1.64 Bluefl y (BFLY) - 50588 2.20 -0.30 89.36 45.10 LVMH * (LVMH:PA) 11.0 13951108 48.38 -6.26 heightened in severity in September,” said Thomas 18.14 1.69 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 573481 1.59 -0.45 87.19 22.24 Macerich (MAC) 10.8 18599463 22.09 -11.61 Reinckens, chairman and chief executive offi cer. 20.70 7.51 Brown Shoe (BWS) 6.8 2880423 7.90 -1.05 33.76 7.65 Macy’s Inc. (M) 5.4 58958250 8.99 -0.85 Piper Jaffray retail analyst Neely Tamminga said 66.86 30.05 Buckle (BKE) 12.0 4367512 34.80 -7.42 17.59 8.25 Maidenform (MFB) 7.3 578446 8.33 -1.11 in this tough environment, she was “encouraged” that 11.48 4.32 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) 12.2 6636426 5.95 0.78 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 4.4 73422486 214.75 -7.00 Caché is “focused on lower-price-point items,” which could “help to stabilize same-store sales.” 686.50 236.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) 8.0 23672495 250.00 -19.00 45.14 12.50 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 7.3 3688469 12.64 -2.68 For the nine months, the retailer registered a loss 20.35 7.30 Cabela’s (CAB) 5.8 2453053 7.12 -2.24 20.21 8.97 Mothers Work (MWRK) - 109952 8.86 -2.39 of $1.6 million, or 12 cents a diluted share, compared 16.54 3.10 Caché (CACH) 10.0 684797 3.00 -0.58 32.93 13.41 Movado (MOV) 6.8 1024268 13.19 -2.49 with net income of $1.6 million, or 10 cents a share, in 54.20 24.16 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 10.8 26711983 28.80 2.00 25.50 15.80 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 8.6 7387276 15.77 -2.36 the year-ago period. The year-to-date fi gure includes 23.13 11.94 Carter (CRI) 13.8 8905251 17.71 2.40 12.12 2.64 New York & Co. (NWY) 26.8 4826605 2.37 -0.82 store closing costs of 13 cents a share and expenses of 8.50 2.01 Casual Male (CMRG) - 695516 2.06 -0.45 6.64 0.09 NexCen (NEXC) - 4822209 0.10 -0.03 3 cents relating to a management change. Brian Woolf 20.31 11.30 Cato (CTR) 12.0 1053667 11.99 -0.93 70.60 48.17 Nike (NKE) 13.9 30994382 47.79 -9.69 resigned as ceo in January and was named president of 33.31 7.01 CBL (CBL) 11.2 10152881 6.99 -2.71 2.68 0.03 Nitches (NICH) - 14783 0.40 -0.04 Charming Shoppes Inc.’s Lane Bryant division in July. 10.25 3.43 CCA (CAW) 7.9 30132 4.47 -0.22 40.59 15.50 Nordstrom (JWN) 6.1 33115416 15.31 -1.35 Net sales grew 2 percent to $199.8 million from 3.18 0.30 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 140405 0.31 -0.05 10.35 5.68 Orchids Paper (TIS) 13.4 33115 7.23 -0.47 $196 million. Same-store sales increased 1 percent. 20.61 7.06 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 5.4 2719668 7.13 -0.99 29.88 12.67 Oxford (OXM) 12.0 1259180 12.11 -1.74 7.63 1.14 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 9430588 1.18 -0.55 17.11 3.00 Pacifi c Sunwear (PSUN) - 6887481 2.90 -0.72 LEGAL BRIEFS 82.17 57.10 Chattem (CHTT) 20.5 1967383 67.73 0.38 7.15 2.42 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 363.0 438581 3.42 -0.29 A federal grand jury in Jacksonville, Fla., indicted six 38.56 13.80 Cherokee (CHKE) 9.9 187424 16.12 -0.50 29.27 8.23 Perry Ellis (PERY) 6.1 1078229 7.88 -1.17 people for their alleged roles in trafficking counterfeit 13.87 2.66 Chico’s (CHS) 23.7 22516104 2.93 -0.64 48.04 22.15 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 7.5 5791517 22.41 -6.23 luxury goods. According to the indictment, filed Sept. 24, 43.40 14.92 Children’s Place (PLCE) - 4022041 27.03 -1.54 2.76 0.45 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) 0.5 68178 0.45 -0.15 the defendants, all Jacksonville residents, sold fake goods 16.68 3.55 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 9.6 2257543 3.91 -0.95 82.02 39.89 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 10.3 9495866 39.65 -7.15 bearing the trademarks of Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Versace 36.75 19.80 Cintas (CTAS) 9.5 8591557 20.24 -1.24 141.50 37.21 PPR * (PP:PA) 4.3 5684320 38.54 -3.94 and others through a number of venues in Florida. The 28.12 10.76 Citi Trends (CTRN) 12.2 902079 12.24 -1.49 33.67 11.09 PriceSmart (PSMT) 17.1 585030 13.57 -0.16 defendants are: Fred Yassen, 59; Ana Cai, 21; Bassirou 38.17 15.16 Coach (COH) 8.8 44136060 17.63 -0.47 13.70 2.26 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 7847381 1.94 -1.24 Willane, 48; Young Jong Kim, 26; Ying Jie Zhou, 24, and 9.09 2.80 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 5569253 2.86 -0.71 9.00 5.61 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 6.1 81204 5.61 -0.34 Chun Hua Zheng, 35. U.S. Immigrations and Customs Enforcement said each defendant faces a maximum 81.98 55.87 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 17.6 20819860 55.94 -6.25 29.68 11.53 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 9.8 572735 12.59 -2.87 penalty of 10 years imprisonment and a $2 million fine. 21.00 8.86 Collective Brands (PSS) 89.7 7993847 10.14 -4.04 73.55 32.63 Regency Centers (REG) 17.2 11311858 32.88 -8.75 Attorneys for Yassen and Willane said their clients had 52.99 29.02 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 8.9 2106733 31.35 -3.33 9.70 1.87 Retail Ventures (RVI) 0.8 1159408 1.92 -0.85 no comment on the allegations. Attorneys for the other 75.23 49.68 Costco (COST) 18.1 34121676 50.93 -7.05 14.85 0.67 Revlon (REV) 11.6 751020 10.73 -1.61 defendants did not return a call seeking comment. 75.21 1.66 Crocs (CROX) 1.7 7801453 1.72 -0.47 83.00 22.52 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 5.7 38486052 23.42 -18.08 The chances that Woody Allen’s lawsuit against American 0.18 0.03 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 13100 0.06 0.00 41.56 21.23 Ross Stores (ROST) 13.3 15086809 28.78 -0.21 Apparel Inc. will make it into a courtroom have improved. 166.50 74.43 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 16.6 4209814 73.74 -20.78 3.72 0.59 Safi lo * (SFL:MI) 6.1 6698627 0.79 -0.13 According to papers fi led in federal court in Manhattan 4.10 1.50 Delia’s (DLIA) - 381965 2.03 -0.23 23.05 4.81 Saks (SKS) 18.9 6108567 5.49 -0.24 on Oct. 6, a judge has ruled that the case is ineligible 16.65 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) - 19781 5.80 0.05 139.50 48.30 Sears (SHLD) 16.0 8065304 47.67 -13.23 for mediation. In March, Allen sued American Apparel 52.56 4.01 Developers Diversifi ed (DDR) 8.1 53077652 8.08 -8.40 106.43 52.73 Simon Properties (SPG) 29.1 24425030 54.11 -13.04 for using his image on billboards in New York and Los 23.44 3.65 Dillard’s (DDS) - 26107137 3.34 -3.59 25.57 10.26 Skechers (SKX) 6.1 4567858 12.00 -1.16 Angeles in 2007 without his consent. According to doc- uments fi led on behalf of Allen, his approval was not 17.93 8.02 Dress Barn (DBRN) 7.2 4171303 8.18 -1.06 3.37 0.60 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 18909 0.84 -0.04 sought and he was not compensated for the ads, which 25.07 9.17 DSW (DSW) 10.9 1780294 10.66 -1.28 7.99 1.61 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 668286 1.86 -0.61 showed the fi lmmaker dressed as an Orthodox rabbi. A 37.47 8.50 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 3311 12.08 -1.07 29.00 14.61 Steve Madden (SHOO) 14.2 897839 17.89 -1.65 trial date for the case has not been set. 8.72 2.39 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 1392192 2.33 -1.35 76.50 29.30 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 1093399 31.50 -1.25 27.34 12.81 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 23.6 1509427 15.96 0.00 17.86 8.09 Syms (SYMS) 188.4 77198 9.11 -0.40 54.75 32.57 Estée Lauder (EL) 14.1 16511903 32.44 -4.09 17.97 6.48 Talbots (TLB) - 3519267 9.06 -0.52 WEEKLY 32.50 14.62 Family Dollar (FDO) 14.7 17240511 25.05 0.39 11.86 2.38 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 17418 3.00 -0.44 12.43 1.48 Finish Line (FINL) - 3467883 7.10 -0.69 6.10 2.16 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 10.0 91063 2.16 -0.49 CHANGE 46.25 15.51 Fossil (FOSL) 8.1 6168078 15.92 -1.93 46.30 26.54 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 44.0 3287473 28.94 -4.67 ENDING WWD 4.25 0.51 Fredericks of Hollywood (FOH) - 50728 0.53 0.00 63.86 31.84 Target (TGT) 10.2 69548704 32.92 -6.45 ( OCT. 24 ) 15.91 7.71 Freds (FRED) 45.3 2276877 9.66 -1.07 1.30 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 135185 0.53 0.00 % 196.75 56.25 French Connection * (FCCN:L) 198.1 415735 62.00 -3.50 92.35 26.21 Taubman (TCO) 43.0 8035279 28.79 -4.15

Gainers Change INDEX 22.02 11.14 Gap (GPS) 9.0 45535545 11.21 -2.21 6.91 1.22 Tefron (TFR) - 30922 1.31 -0.29 54.53 2.33 General Growth (GGP) 11.7 52461952 2.17 -3.95 54.96 21.78 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 8.8 16762423 22.68 -4.84 Jaclyn +49.00 COMPOSITE 47.74 18.76 Genesco (GCO) 4.7 3020174 21.61 -3.47 19.90 11.28 Timberland (TBL) 15.0 2646020 11.60 -1.65 Hampshire +24.50 700.69 23.00 10.73 G-III Apparel (GIII) 17.6 855650 12.95 -2.51 37.52 23.39 TJX Cos. (TJX) 11.8 41155706 23.63 -3.35 Carter +15.68 46.47 18.50 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 14.5 7024465 18.82 -2.13 64.48 29.12 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 13.7 250360 34.80 -1.34 Bulgari * +15.14 22.96 3.12 Glimcher (GRT) 2.7 2473975 4.22 -1.23 31.82 13.89 True Religion (TRLG) 11.1 2883077 14.49 -3.76 Carrefour * +7.46 42.85 20.44 G&K (GKSR) 9.3 597711 20.63 -1.22 33.73 6.80 Tween Brands (TWB) 5.8 2225881 7.10 -1.32 4.47 0.45 Gottschalks (GOT) - 138633 0.80 -0.38 63.90 17.69 Under Armour (UA) 22.2 6458871 18.10 -7.26 51.47 18.87 Guess (GES) 8.6 4970250 19.45 -3.50 5.43 1.80 Unifi (UFI) - 3315453 4.94 0.11 Decliners Change 47.69 22.27 Gymboree (GYMB) 7.8 4340338 21.94 -5.03 38.25 21.51 Unilever (UL) - 9865209 21.46 -2.43 General Growth -64.54 14.75 2.20 Hampshire (HAMP) - 45125 4.98 0.98 38.40 18.46 Urban Outfi tters (URBN) 17.3 25072719 19.21 -3.29 Dillard’s -51.80 37.73 12.50 Hanesbrands (HBI) 6.7 7177222 13.24 -2.36 87.36 48.27 VF Corp. (VFC) 8.6 7774592 46.42 -9.13 Developers Diversified -50.97 5.21 0.13 Hartmarx (HMX) - 659235 0.37 -0.31 42.44 10.40 Volcom (VLCM) 7.3 1822154 9.82 -2.85 Hartmarx -45.59 -81.51 433.50 247.00 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 14.4 22341798 258.00 -18.00 63.85 42.50 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.7 140006498 51.40 -2.37 118.80 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 30.7 1236345 83.22 -10.59 53.89 24.03 Warnaco (WRC) 18.7 5772397 23.89 -6.98 Quiksilver -38.99 7.99 3.90 Hot Topic (HOTT) 15.6 3838391 5.61 -0.11 40.00 18.33 Weingarten (WRI) 8.9 7223779 18.57 -4.56 29.11 13.27 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 11306104 16.02 0.74 41.99 24.14 Weyco (WEYS) 14.1 99725 26.15 -1.75 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of 23.55 7.86 Iconix (ICON) 7.0 3850908 7.45 -1.66 31.21 19.85 Wolverine (WWW) 11.4 2972248 21.70 -1.88 their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quot- 53.90 23.90 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 12.5 24133124 25.38 -2.43 30.89 12.48 Zale (ZLC) 59.6 2880297 14.40 -1.57 ed in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish 19.96 9.02 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 13.3 422629 10.49 -0.56 46.34 4.50 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 10.5 2665923 8.88 -1.81 kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 1.96 0.20 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 3477791 0.24 -0.03 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 25 WWD.COM Fashion Brands Tighten Up to Cope With Economy Continued from page one. covers ratings of both its senior unsecured credit and its prime-3 commercial paper. of 33 cents a diluted share. Claiborne slashed its 2008 adjusted earnings projections “Moody’s no longer expects the company to show a sustained improvement in sales from continuing operations to $1 to $1.10 a share from $1.40 to $1.50. In August, it had or margins in the current year,” Ed Henderson, vice president and senior analyst at narrowed projections to that level from a previous $1.40 to $1.60. the rating agency, said. “As a result, the company is unlikely to maintain fi nancial The fi rm, which in August reduced 2008 capital expenditures by $15 million to $195 metrics appropriate for an investment grade rating.” million, said it would spend half as much next year. Debt ratings are part of the equation that determines how much it costs companies That means, among other cost-cutting measures, a slowdown in the rollout of to borrow money. Juicy Couture stores, McComb said. The fi rm already pulled back on retail expansion Moody’s also placed the ratings of two hard-pressed regional department stores, plans for Kate Spade and Lucky Brand. Unlike Kate Spade and Lucky, however, the Dillard’s Inc. and The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., under review for possible downgrades. Juicy stores enjoyed same-store sales growth during the third quarter of 5 percent. Dillard’s current family credit rating of “B1,” considered speculative, will be stud- Lucky’s were down 4 percent and ied based on concern that its “con- Kate Spade’s were off 13 percent. tinuing weak operating performance “It’s all about careful cash manage- Moody’s is reviewing will prevent the company from ment, which is what the Street wants Bon-Ton’s credit status. maintaining a fi nancial profi le and companies like ours to do,” he said. debt protection measures appropri- The company expects to have debt ate for its current rating.” Moody’s of $750 million to $775 million at the Henderson also raised questions end of the year, and expects to be in about Dillard’s ability to realize compliance with its bank credit fa- improvement in its retail stores “in- cility fi nancial covenants during the stead of relying on profi ts from its third and fourth quarters. credit card-related operations.” “This is an environment where For Bon-Ton, currently rated providing that very specifi c guidance “B2,” questions focus on the re- around balance sheet metrics is po- tailer’s recent revision of guidance, tentially more important than what which estimated that the deficit we think [about] where the earnings for the year would be at the lower are going to come out,” McComb said. end of its range of a loss of between But Wall Street didn’t react well to $1.17 and $1.67, which could jeopar- the news: As the stock market overall dize the company’s credit metrics. took another tumble, Claiborne’s shares Agitation in the markets also led fell 4.8 percent on Friday to $6.95, down in an about-face by Macy’s on Friday, 77.5 percent from their 52-week high. when the fi rm said it would tempo- Claiborne isn’t alone, of course: rarily resume reporting monthly A slew of other fashion companies, sales data on Nov. 6. The company from competitor Jones Apparel Group checked out of the monthly sales to retail client Macy’s Inc., also have rally earlier this year. lowered bottom-line projections as “We want to provide investors the consumer climate has worsened. It’s all about careful cash as much information and transpar- Meanwhile, at least one major ven- ency as possible,” Terry Lundgren, dor has begun to quantify the impact management,“ which is what Macy’s chairman, president and of Mervyns’ liquidation. Hanesbrands ceo, said. “While we continue to be- Inc. on Friday said it would take a pre- the Street wants companies lieve that sales on a monthly basis tax charge of $5.5 million in the third are an incomplete and sometimes quarter because of the liquidation of like ours to do. misleading measure of a retailer’s the retailer’s remaining 149 stores ” performance, we will again provide and the decision to close up shop in — William L. McComb, Liz Claiborne Inc. this information so investors have the wake of its July bankruptcy. a sense of the direction of our busi- That will reduce earnings by 4 cents ness on a more frequent basis through this uncertain time.” a diluted share. The innerwear produc- Not long ago, when oil soared above $140 a barrel, higher energy costs seemed like er now expects third-quarter earnings the biggest threat to second-half spending. Oil fell to less than $65 a barrel Friday of 17 cents a diluted share, which in- after oil-producing countries said they would cut their output by 1.5 million barrels a cludes 35 cents worth of restructuring day in the wake of weakening demand. charges and the charge for Mervyns. Now economists and retailers are more worried about the employment picture and McComb said Claiborne, which the ability and willingness of shoppers to spend during what could be a prolonged he has been shepherding through a and global economic slump. massive restructuring and a series Anxiety over the economic slowdown kept investors on edge last week, making life of divestitures, is lean and mean and all the harder for publicly traded fashion companies. ready for the tough environment. The Standard & Poor’s Retail Index closed out the week at 247.04, 11.1 percent Asked if the company’s turnaround might run out of time given tight credit markets below Oct. 17’s level and 3.7 percent under Thursday’s 256.53 fi nish. It’s also 47 per- and its sinking stock price, McComb said: “My answer to that question is very different cent below the 52-week high of 466.38, hit Oct. 29. than I would have given six months ago. Now the rest of the world is in our same boat.” The decline in retail stocks for the week by far outstripped declines for the period in To what degree the slowing consumer economy is going to rock that boat remains the Dow Jones Industrial Average (5.3 percent) and the S&P 500 (6.8 percent). However, to be seen. they were modest in comparison to sell-offs in Asia, where the Nikkei 225 was off 12 “There’s this general shift from wants to needs that we think is going to carry into percent for the week after a 9.6 percent drop on Friday. Hong Kong’s Hang Seng Index the holiday season more than we’ve ever seen before,” McComb said. plummeted 13.3 percent during the week after Friday’s 8.3 percent swoon. The ceo said his company has seen some order cancellations from retailers, but In Europe, London’s FTSE 100 dropped 5 percent on Friday, putting its decline nothing “overly dramatic.” for the week at 4.4 percent. The CAC 40 in Paris fell 3.5 percent to put its slide for the Claiborne’s profi t warning prompted Moody’s Investors Service to place the ven- week at 4.1 percent. dor’s credit rating, currently at “Baa3,” on review for possible downgrade. The review — With contributions from Arnold J. Karr Financial Crisis Seen Taking Toll on Textile, Apparel Industry By John Zarocostas consumption is down. WTO, added that, “Trade will suffer,” China and noted both were not decoupled “All elements show we’re going to have noting volatile exchange rate movements from the effects of the U.S. economy. At GENEVA — The global financial crisis and a diffi cult period in the next 18 months, if affecting some developing nations “cer- the same time, he noted that China and the possibility of a worldwide recession not 24 months,” Marchi said. tainly will not help.” India, the two biggest emerging markets, could see the textile and apparel indus- Like other industries, he said, the tex- A report published Oct. 16 by the have domestic demand dynamics and can try in for some rough times, industry ex- tile and apparel sector in Europe is also International Labor Organization said explore new growth potential, and this ecutives and experts said. shedding jobs. the global slowdown “is affecting low-in- can help limit some of the impact of the “Companies are facing a credit crunch Debapriya Bhattacharya, Bangladesh’s come groups disproportionately” in rich fi nancial crisis. and this is putting them in diffi cult posi- ambassador to the World Trade and emerging nations. Torres, who was also lead author of the tions,” said Francesco Marchi, direc- Organization, told a United Nations Income inequalities, which “have ILO report “World of Work, 2008,” said the tor of economic affairs at the European Conference on Trade & Development grown excessively” in the majority of study estimates that in the U.S. the chief Apparel & Textiles Organization. “The forum last week that the fi nancial crisis will countries, are expected to grow further executive offi cers of the largest 15 compa- demand is not there.” have impacts on the trade, currency and in- as a result of the fi nancial crisis, said nies earned 520 times more than the aver- Marchi, whose umbrella group repre- vestment prospects of poorer nations. Raymond Torres, director of the ILO’s age worker, up from 360 times in 2003. He sents tens of thousands of textiles and ap- In a similar tone, Supachai International Institute for Labor Studies. said that while some income inequality is parel companies across Europe, said this Panitchpadki, UNCTAD chief, said the How the slowdown in production will useful in rewarding people making an ef- is not only in major markets like the U.S., impact on developing nations “will be impact on labor “we will see the effects fort, talent and innovation, too much of a Japan and Europe, but also other coun- much deeper than was anticipated.” within six months,” he said. But the ILO discrepancy can also be harmful to soci- tries such as Russia, South Africa and Supachai, a former deputy prime min- economist said the crisis will also impact ety and “represents a danger to the social certain Latin American countries, where ister of Thailand and former head of the major emerging economies like India and fabric, as well as economic effi ciency.” 26 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2008 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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PRODUCTION REPLENISHMENT MANAGER Jaclyn Inc. / Bonnie International is seeking Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. a planner that has 3 to 5 years experience No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: HEAD OF MERCHANDISING DESIGN working with Wal-Mart and knowledge of POS, Executive Sales Associate (937) 898-2975 Major apparel company seeks Executive CPFR and Retail Link. This individual is respon- Sales Associate for children’s wear-all AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT size ranges. Individual will be working sible for managing & executing all aspects of with mid tier and department store A NY based import company doing successful business last 13 years in accounts and must have experience Women Woven Apparel is looking to hire the best person for the captioned order creation, replenishment and inventory dealing with buyers. Excellent salary and comprehensive benefits package. EXCESS INVENTORY BUYER position. Our average annual volumes are $35m comprising of private label levels. The individual we are seeking must be Email resumes: [email protected] Immediate Cash/No Inventory Too Large programs and branded business in Missy, Plus and Junior departments of extremely analytical, w/ strong organizational No Hassle/Integrity Driven/Closeouts Needed 901-338-6364 www.fusioninternational.net mass merchandisers, specialty chains, and department stores. Imports are and computer skills. Wholesale handbag, accessory or Key Account Sales to $100k. Current mainly out of China, Bangladesh, and India. The existing team is strong in selling, exp in urban Jr. or urban outerwear. fashion experience is preferred. Competitive salary and Branded. Must have relationships with COMMERCIAL sourcing, technical, and logistics, to make quality merchandise and execute either specialty stores or off-price or comprehensive benefi ts package. dept stores. Large growing estab co. REAL ESTATE on time deliveries at most effective costs. We would like to meet candidates [email protected] 973-564-9236 either from a strong competitor based in NY or someone who is a reputed and [email protected] successful Merchant and leader in retail in the moderate / budget segment SALES MANAGER seeking a change.The function requires leading a design team, traveling for High-end ladies RTW and Couture shopping and research and product development, presentation of product to fashion house seeking sales manager for both wholesale and retail. Min 5 major retailers, with total commitment to the company. We will offer base years experience. Send resume to: salary in excess of $200,000 and, in addition, performance based incentives / [email protected] bonus. Company provides medical coverage, saving plan, vacation, etc. Ann Taylor has approximately 900 stores in the United States and Puerto Rico. Our company is comprised of two distinct brands and four divisions. All correspondence will be kept confidential and no contact made with any ref- SALESPERSON Ann Taylor Stores and LOFT Stores are our brands, while Ann Taylor Factory Estab Intimates mfr seeks prof’’l expd erences without prior consent. Please e-mail detailed resume with specific and LOFT Outlet are channels of our brands in the outlet environment. We salesperson in NY shwrm. Salary / ben- experience with a list of achievements you are proud of. Also, make sure you are committed to creating fashionable, emotionally compelling product efits based on exp. Rep territories also are NOT constrained by any contractual limitations to make a change at the which address the ever-evolving lifestyles of women. avail. Resume: 19knalboptonline.net present time. Responses will be received at: [email protected]. We are reviewing applications for current and future needs in: Store Planning & Allocations and Merchandise Planning - All Levels SALESPERSON SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE Social occasion dress mftr requires an We are also looking for a seasoned sales person who currently does volume These exciting opportunities require: experienced salesperson in specialty Showrooms & Lofts •Developing planning & allocation strategy and design. store. Email or fax resumes to: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS business with stores including Target, Wal-Mart, and the discounter Clubs [email protected] / 212-944-9493 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail •Implementing plans that support the merchandising, marketing and ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 including Costco, Price Club, BJ Wholesale, Sams. Base salary is negotiable financial objectives of the brand. and commissions / incentives are offered in addition. Please respond to: Please apply directly to: www.anntaylorcareers.com SALES POSITIONS [email protected] marking the resume EOE Seeking young and energetic salespeo- ple to fill senior positions including "senior sales executive" National Sales Manager, Sales Manag- Manager of AR & PRODUCTION MANAGER TO $90k er and commission basis Regional Strong exp in production for Walmart Sales Representatives with strong den- Vendor Compliance garment vendor reqd. Source world- im background, strong contacts with Associate Designer To $55K Graphic Designer $45-50K wide exp. Kids or womens or men’s California Market Center Knits. Illustrator/PhotoShop/Graphics. 3-D exp w/licensed products for kids. department and specialty stores as Beautiful Showroom Avail For Rent, Leading $100M Apparel Manufacturer sportswear. New div of co. Bi-ling [email protected] 6 mos to 1 yr exp req’d. Benefits & 401K seeks Manager of AR & Vendor Comp. well as other channels of distribution. 1500sq.ft. Lease ending 12/31/2010. For Chinese / Eng prefd, not nec. Please e-mail resume to: e-mail: [email protected] •Manage receivables, chargeback issues [email protected] 973-564-9236 add’l info contact Mr. Mario Rocha at A TRENDY DENIM APPAREL KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS [email protected] 514-822-3054 or [email protected] and vendor compliance. COMPANY IS SEEKING TO FILL •Exp. w/factors, EDI, vendor compliance THE FOLLOWING POSITION Production or Product GRAPHIC DESIGNER and routing guides required. Assistant or Coordinator or Manager Showroom /Office for Rent DESIGNER Major apparel co. seeks graphic designer •Garment center experience a must. Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries SALES REP 389 Fifth Ave – 500 sf. / $1500 mon Salary up to $125,000 based on exp. Seeking a highly motivated men’s den- with junior girls experience. Individual Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 Designer Swim and Resortwear co. - Slat walled w/shelves & desks must be creative and detail oriented. Email: [email protected] ladies and kids division is seeking East Call Peter: 212-683-1900 im designer with knit experience. Must be trend conscious with a great eye for Responsibilities include executing the PRODUCTION and West Coast sales representatives. details, strong technical & production art from start to finished packages for PATTERNMAKER $65-80k. Strong exp Must have established contacts with skills; minimum 5-7 years of experi- production. Will work with mock up in men’s shirts. Must be able to sew PATTERNMAKER department stores, boutiques and spe- ence in designing. The ideal candidate samples and embroidery dept. Must be and make a men’s custom shirt. NJ loc. cialty stores, min of 3-5 yrs exp. Ref req. able to work in fast paced environment. Must be familiar with Lane Bryant, must have the following requirements, [email protected] 973-564-9236 Ashley Stewart, Catherine’s. Should E-mail: [email protected] source & purchase all fabrics & trims; E-mail resumes to: [email protected] have strong communication skills in oversee the design and sample room sample room. *Must be fluent in English. department; develop wash standards PATTERNMAKER Needs to be well versed in fit sessions. for the collections, assist sales depart- HOSIERY DESIGNER Excellent salary& benefit. Must excel Must give clear instructions on pattern ment w/product knowledge by attend- Leading fashion accessory co. is seek- in draping first pattern from sketches. corrections and revisions. Should be ing trade shows. Please e-mail resume: ing an experienced men’s and ladies Following thru production pattern cor- outspoken and proactive during fit [email protected] hosiery/legwear designer to oversee rections. Strong experience in women, sessions. Must have excellent tailoring product development, from concept to men’s and plus sizes. Send resume to: knowledge for sewing/finishing. Must SALES ASSOCIATE Patterns/Samples/Production CASSIN finished product. 2-4 years experience [email protected] have experience in woven’s and knits. Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening in men’s and/or ladies hosiery design Please fax or email resume and salary European luxury accessory brand is Gowns custom made & wholesale. Hi-end luxe co. seeks exp’d multi- and development. Responsible for seeking a part time energetic, enthusiastic taskers with min 3 yrs industry exp. requirements to: Fax 212-575- 0069 Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 trend, color and fashion research and [email protected] & well mannered sales associate. Must with great taste to join team. PATTERNMAKER have high end retail experience. Afternoon presentations. Global mill, factory and Leading Luxury design house seeks an TECHNICAL DESIGNER sourcing relationships. Proficiency in & evening schedule. Japanese/Russian PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Assist head designers to execute 1st exp’d patternmaker with outstanding REPLENISHMENT MGR $80-90k. Strong speaking a plus. Email resumes w/ cover Photoshop, Illustrator; Point-Carre a draping skills. Must be skilled in exp in Walmart retail link. Monitor / samples. Up to date exp. in all areas of plus. Bachelor’s degree. Supervisory letter to: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS fit, construction and finishing. jackets, dresses & pants with min. 5 adjust/create replenishment & forecast All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. experience is a plus. Excellent commu- system settings using CPFR. Midtown. ACCESSORY DESIGNER yrs. exp. in the designer market req’d. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. nication skills. Strong interpersonal Email resume w/c letter to: [email protected] 973-564-9236 Freelance/P.T. Must have exp. In Bridge skills. Strong analytical skills. Please [email protected] /Designer soft accessories, daywear e-mail (in a Word attachment) your re- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, /eve. Creative & tech skills a must. Send sume and a brief cover letter, stating TECH DESIGNER resume: Angel@cassincollections.com your salary history and requirements, Fast paced women’s apparel mfg with PRODUCTIONS to: [email protected]. PATTERNMAKER Major apparel co. seeks girls pattern- great benefits seeks experienced, Full service shop to the trade. Contemporary Design Company Seeks responsible candidates. Excel experts. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. maker sizes 4-16. Must have children’s Kahn Lucas is growing and we are wear experience. E-mail resume to work well under pressure w/sense of FIT MODEL urgency. Patt making/grading exp. a For 20-25hrs weekly. Candidates must looking for a sourcing manager and a [email protected] production coordinator. must. Strong communication skill in have below measurements and have at fit corrections and technical sketches. least 2 years of experience with pro- PRODUCTION ASSISTANT $40-45k. private label experience a plus. duction fittings to contribute relative Sourcing Manager - Will be responsi- ble for global sourcing and price nego- Min 1yr exp in entering PO’s. receiving Fax or email resume to: 212-704-4302 input. Height 5’8”; Shoulder width 15 of shipments, track sample requests, [email protected] ½”; Bust 35 ½”; Ribcage 29 ½”; Waist tiation. Will travel internationally to SALES REP evaluate manufacturing facilities. Will etc. Secaucus NJ area. Miami based Wearable art accessories 27 1/2”; High hip(4” blw waist) 33 ½”; [email protected] 973-564-9236 Leading Intimate Apparel Low hip(8” blw waist) 37 ½”; Widest build strong vendor partnerships with co is seeking an Independent Sales Rep. Import / Mfr / Whlslr seeks possible compliant factories. Must have a Tech Designer Sweaters 5+ yrs exp in women’s accessories low hip (10” blw waist) 38 ¾”; Thigh Candidate will develop Tech Packs, merger / acquisition. Can supply some/ 22”; Bicep 10 ¾”. Excellent compensa- strong background in fabric, trim, con- PRODUCTION MANAGER TO 100K. market & well estab. relationship w/ all facets of operation – shipping, de- struction, quality, and costing. Must give Fit Corrections, & work w/ Private NY, L.A., Las Vegas, Chicago & Houston tion for the right candidate. Current exp in intimate apparel or Label Accounts. Should have computer sign, production, sales support. In con- Please apply [email protected] have technical product proficiency, women’s sleepwear reqd. From incep- high-end accessories retailers & major fidence: [email protected] and understand the textile testing pro- skills, knowledge of Testing/Care Instruc- Dept Stores. Average wholesale price PHOTOGRAPHS WELCOME tion to completion. Must have sense of tions, and 3+ years exp. Wal-Mart exp cedures. Must be a strong negotiator. urgency. Northern NJ location. $550 for each unique piece. Commission a plus. NJ location. Email resume: based. Send co info to: Fax 305-442-8489 Strategic Partner/Licensees [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] Top Gun Properties LLC, owner of DESIGNER Production Coordinator - Will track or e-mail [email protected] trademark rights for Top Gun lifestyle Childrenswear Co. (Isfel Co.) seeks de- the status of a production order from www.marziag.com products around the world, is seeking signer w/ knowledge of garment con- inception to ship date. Will ensure a strategic operating partner to signifi- struction, speaks Cantonese and will that a quality product is shipped on cantly expand the global brand foot- be willing to travel. Position requires time. Req: strong excel and math print of Top Gun and licensees for ma- min. 5 yrs experience. Fax resume w/ skills, ability to be persuasive, strong jor markets and/or major product cate- salary req. to: 212-967-4369 negotiating skills, strong communica- gories in the US and around the world. tion skills, strong detail orientation, Available product categories DESIGNER/HEAD MERCHANDISER ability to be aggressive. Garment include apparel, footwear, eyewear, $175 to 250k. Current exp in Women’s construction knowledge a plus. For home and many others. Interested designer collection reqd. Must hang consideration send resume to: To subscribe, visit our website parties should email a company profile with Lauren collection, etc. Midtown. [email protected] and list of qualifications to [email protected] 973-564-9236 www.wwd.com/subscribenow [email protected] FACTORY MGR to $75K. Strong exp Licensing Coord $45K We are interested in managing woven garments factory Must have prior exp w/Disney. or call 800.289.0273 Executive Sales Professional buying surplus fabrics & stock reqd. Engineering background helpful Benefits & 401K Accessories Area: Outstanding Clout at Corporate. Please call: lots irrespective of quantity. Contact not nec. Supervise 175. NJ location. e-mail: [email protected] For group rates, contact Richard Franz at [email protected] us: 646.642.3002 / [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS 856 261 1756 FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY, NEW YORK BRANDON GRIMM WINNER OF THE INTERNATIONAL DESIGN CONTEST 2008, PARIS

LYCRA® 2.0 Garment Technology features patented products to provide garments with bonded hems, seams and bands with stretch and recovery that meet the LYCRA® brand promise of comfort, fi t and freedom of movement.

Students from across the globe designed intimate apparel using the new patented technology from INVISTA. Brandon Grimm best showcased the unique benefi ts of LYCRA® 2.0 Garment Technology – all-day fi t with smooth, sleek looks – and impressed a distinguished international panel of judges from the textile industry at the fi nale at Mode City in Paris.

To fi nd out more about LYCRA® 2.0 Garment Technology, contact Roseann Beutell at 212-512-9213, [email protected] or visit www.LYCRA.com

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