Tel London: +44 208 961 6770 www.parisrentalconnections.com Email: [email protected]

14/02/2019

17 Century Maison 36 rue Vieille du Temple 75004 Entrance Code: 13698 then bell button Through glass door on the left 5th floor left door marked Friedman Telephone: 01 77 18 30 85 Metro: Hotel de Ville or St Paul

17th Century Maison is ideally located in the Marais, an area considered as one of Paris’ “quartiers branchés”-hip neighbourhoods with its many trendy boutiques, cafés and restaurants and home to the Musée Carnavalet (Paris history museum) and the Place Vosges the beautiful royal square constructed under Henri IV in 1605. The street owes it’s name to the knights of the round temple (the Templiers) who first gathered in what is now called the Rue Vieille du Temple which is filled with great boutiques and great food shops. Here you’ll find everything from bread & pastries and chocolate to the funky and refined in home furnishings. From the apartment walk towards rue de Rivoli to view the majestic Hotel de Ville (Town hall) and Notre Dame on the Ile de la Cité and explore the neighbourhoods of the Latin Quarter and St Germain. Walking North you arrive at the Centre George Pompidou, one of Paris’ most controversial architectural projects and home to the museum of modern art and many avant-garde temporary exhibitions. Cross the blvd Sébastopol, for les Halles, once the location of Paris’ main food markets from the 12th century to the 1960’s when the market and the merchants were moved out and the site converted into a large pedestrian area with a huge underground shopping mall, the Forum des Halles. The area is dotted with great boutiques and is a hotbed of young and upcoming designers. For the best in people watching at sidewalk cafes, try rue du Bourg Tibourg close to home where you can visit the famous tea house of the worldwide known tea merchants Mariage Freres for brunch on weekends or the best tea anytime. This is an area full of life even on a drowsy Sunday when most Parisian locales are closed. This is also a pedestrian heaven, a shopper’s delight and a traveler’s treat.

Enjoy!

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Table of contents

Page 3. Top Tips

Page 4. Amenities, phone, TV and sofa bed instructions

Page 5. High Speed Internet

Page 6. Appliances

Page 7. Heating, recycling and metro

Page 8. La Poste, Local Food & Wine, Museums and Monuments

Pages 9-10. Maps of the area

Pages 11-23. Restaurant suggestions

Pages 24-26. Walking Tours

Pages 27-28. French Vocabulary

Page 29. Useful numbers

Page 30-31. Our other Properties

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Top Tips.…

➢ CHECK-OUT On the day you check-out be sure to turn everything off and close all windows securely. Make sure you have packed all your belongings. Once ready to vacate leave the keys together inside the apartment then shut the door firmly behind you making sure it is closed properly.

➢ NOISE ALERT! Sound carries in Parisian flats. Please be respectful and don’t play the TV or music loudly. Please don’t use the washing machine, dryer or dishwasher after 9 pm. Please be gentle with the front door to avoid slamming. Please don’t roll luggage at night or too early on the floor. Have your luggage ready in the hallway to avoid disturbing the neighbours in the morning.

➢ TAXI Taxi G7: 01 47 39 47 39 Taxi G7 (large car): 01 47 39 01 39 Taxi G7 English: 01 41 27 66 99

➢ QESTTIONS? PROBLEMS?

➢ Paris Agent:+33 6 37 53 85 23 (Georgina) ➢ Email: [email protected] ➢ ➢ Alternative number – send text first: ➢ Gail: +33 6 77 06 85 87

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❖ Amenities

❖ Linen and towels ❖ Cable TV with English Special Notes: ❖ Cutlery, cookware and channels dishes ❖ DVD player The building is very secure and ❖ Microwave ❖ Hairdryer without the code and your key you will not be able to enter the ❖ Electric Stove and Oven ❖ Iron and board apartment. ❖ Dishwasher ❖ English books and magazines Please feel free to use any food in ❖ Kettle, Toaster and ❖ Wi-Fi high speed internet the cupboards but please replace Coffee Maker access anything you finish. Thank you! ❖ Fridge, freezer ❖ 1x Queen size bed, 2x single Should anything break or be damaged in any way during your ❖ Washer/Dryer beds and 1x sofa bed stay please let us know. ❖ Shower & Bath Please do not light a fire in the fireplace as it is not safe ❖ Telephone with free local & international landline calls

Tips: NEVER leave your keys inside the lock or you will not be able to get the key into the lock on the outside to open the door again. Only a locksmith will be able to repair it.

❖ The Telephone and International Calls

The phone will allow you to call To call the telephone in the To North America North America, and most EU apartment: 001 area code + number countries— Incoming call from France: 01 77 18 30 85 Voicemail: 888 Landlines only—(see list) From Europe: The messages will play Otherwise, for countries not listed, 00 33 1 77 18 30 85 automatically. To replay dial 3, to please use a phone card. From North America: delete dial 011 33 1 77 18 30 85

Tips: International phone cards may be purchased at most convenience stores, « tabacs » (where you buy cigarettes), at most grocery stores or at the post office.

❖ Television & Cable

The apartment has cable television. To watch TV press the CNN: 541 green power button on the TV remote, then press the power BBC World: 542 button on the cable remote. France 24 English: 543 Change the channels and volume by pressing the buttons Bloomberg: 545 marked + and—on the cable remote. For cable the TV source needs to be on HDMI 1. CNBC: 544 The top left small green button on the TV remote controls the Al Jazeera English: 546 source. Use the round large center button to scroll and then Catch up on a bit of BBC Entertainment: 667 set the source by pressing the center of the button. world news or escape from it all... AV1 is the source for the DVD player.

❖ Sofa-Bed

Remove all cushions To open the bed: Face the sofa; place your hand on the middle of the frame/handle. Gently pull the handle up and towards you to unfold the bed.

Gently repeat the process backwards to re-fold the bed.

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❖ High Speed Internet Access

There is a Wi-Fi internet connection or you can use the yellow Ethernet cable at the back of the modem.

Network: Numericable—FF5E

Password: 14f7 619d 4aa 15e9 2aa3 20ca 093 (Lower case, no spaces)

No wireless connection? No problems just use the Ethernet plug which needs to be plugged at the back of the wireless modem as well as in to your computer.

Problem Solving Mac OS X

Go into your System Preferences. Select Network—the window will open with 2 pull down menus. Select the Locations menu. You should have Automatic selected. Click Show. Select Built in Ethernet. In the dial up box there are 5 pull down menus; select the TCP/IP menu then select the Configure IP v4 menu. In the submenu select Using DHCP.

The boxes that contained your former IP address will “grey out”; click Apply Now and the current IP address will appear.

In both the case of the Mac and PC, the IP address for Noos should start with either, 81 or 212 or 195.

Numericable Troubleshooting

If you are experiencing a problem with the internet or phone, you can reboot the system by un-plugging the power adapter from the modem for 30 seconds and then plugging it back in to complete the re boot.

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❖ Appliances

Working the Oven The average oven temperature Viandes- Meat The oven thermostat on the left is about 180°C which is Gratins– Gratins approximately equivalent to goes from 1-10. Tournebroche— 350°F 1-50-60°C; 2– 90-110°C Rotisserie The programme options Grillades minces –Thin 3– 140°C; 4-160°C translated are: grilled foods 4— Quick cycle Eclairage de four—Oven light 5-180°C; 6-200°C Patisseries–Poissons Tartes-Quiches –Pies and Pastries & Fish 7-220°C; 8-240°C quiche 9– 260°C; 10-270-280°C Grillades epaisses-Thick grilled foods

Tips: **Electrical FYI** The oven clock must be set for the oven to work. To set the clock: push in both the “minuteur” and “durée” and then turn the + or — dial to set then release. If the clock is not set and you turn on the washing machine it can throw the breaker which is in a wall cabinet by the front door. It is the breaker with a t-shirt.

Washer/Dryer

The Washer/Dryer is located in #5 is recommended and is a 30 hours – 40 minutes. Press the kitchen. minute wash Marche/Pause to start Washer/Dryer You can change the temperature or select cycles by You can turn off the dryer in Washer gently pressing the temperature the middle of the DRYING Squeeze handle to open the button before starting the cycle, cycle by gently pressing the door however the amount of time ON/OFF button for 2 seconds Load clothes, do not overstuff will change as the temperature until the machine powers the washer goes up! down. Slide open soap compartment Press Marche/Pause to start using the handle underneath Note: French washers take on the numbers Dryer average 2 hours to wash on Load soap in the largest Séchage is the drying function normal cycle. container on the edge Chose the cycle # When drying a load, it is important to divide it in 2. Turn machine on using Gently press the sun in the ON/OFF button bottom centre of machine to Use centre dial to select cycle #. select drying minutes between 3

Dishwasher

The Siemens dishwasher is very easy to operate. on the left compartment power button on the right Load your dishes into the The machine is already setup (Marche - Arret) to start the dishwasher and put in the dish for a quick wash at 45° which wash. The filter in the center of detergent into the soap should be good for normal to the dishwasher should be dispenser (right compartment) heavy wash. cleaned of any food particles or located in the door of the You may leave it on this broken glass. Just twist and pull dishwasher and the rinse agent program and just press the out.

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❖ Heating

There are several heaters Twin Bedroom: On left are 4 When going out for the day located throughout the icons: (from left) switch to the moon setting and apartment. turn dial to between 3 &4. The thermostat in each room 1- is on/off needs to be set to the right 2- is anti freeze It is best to turn the heaters off temperature for the following 3- a timer or to keep them on low when settings to work. 4- moon you leave for the day. 5– sun icon Do no put anything on top of Downstairs: heaters as it could result in fire. Turn the switch to the on position 1 is on and 0 is off, To heat: Turn the left hand and then turn round dial to switch to the furthest setting: between 1 & 10. the sun icon and then turn the Master Bedroom: turn left dial dial with the sun icon between to “Conf” and adjust right dial 1-10 to between 1 & 10.

❖ Recycling

The bins are located in the • Paper including magazines, • Small electrical appliances courtyard—to the right newsprint or envelopes including blenders, razors, irons inside the right hand • Cardboard boxes including or hairdryers. building. cereal boxes, detergent or out All other garbage or anything There are different garbage packaging you are unsure about should go bins, depending on what • Metal cans including aerosol in the bin with the green lid. you have to discard. products, food tins, aluminum Garbage is picked up every day. • Plastic including water, soda, The garbage bins are located in All bins are green but the one milk or juice bottles, cleaning the courtyard “shed” (white with the Yellow lid is for the product containers, doors on ground floor) by staircase D following items:

❖ Metro Station (Subway)

The Apartment is equidistant from turn right. Keep going Rue de Rivoli becomes rue St two metro stations: Hotel de Ville straight you will then Saint Antoine. The Metro is up (line 1 & 11) or St Paul (line 1) see the metro entrance. ahead in the center sidewalk. To get to Hotel de Ville go out of To get to the St Paul station, go Don’t forget to get a metro map the building turn left. Go straight left out of the building till you “plan du metro”. till you reach rue de Rivoli and reach rue de Rivoli and turn left.

Tips: Buy a “Paris Visit day pass” to make unlimited, unrestricted trips around Paris or “un carnet (de dix)” of 10 tickets which you can use on any journey within Paris on the metro, bus or RER. Each metro or bus trip costs one ticket. If you buy a book of 10 identical tickets (carnet de dix) you will make a saving of at least 20% compared to buying 10 tickets separately. You can purchase tickets from a metro station or use the kiosk by selecting your language with the rolling handle. Only some kiosks take bills. Please beware that metro tickets are magnetic. Do not place them with coins, cell phone or other electronics as they will de-magnetize.

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❖ La Poste (The Post Office)

There is a postal office on 10 Instead of standing in The normal postal rue Moussy Paris 75004 line to send your office hours are from letters, you can use the postal 8:00am-7:00pm Monday

machines available in the post through Friday and 8:00am- When you post letters or cards office. Simply place your letter 12:00pm on Saturdays. going outside of France you will on top of the scale and choose Other important services at the be sending them, « à from the on- screen options. post office include currency l’étranger » (which means You can change to the language exchange, Western Union, abroad). of your choice on the first photocopying, faxing and more. screen.

Tips: When dropping mail in the yellow mailboxes “autres departements/ Etranger” is for anything out of Paris or France

❖ Food, Wine and a Whole lot more

For your daily bread and those des Francs Bourgeois there is a which sets up 2 days a week: sinful pastries why not try your Picard gourmet frozen food Weds 12.30 -8.30pm Sat: 7 am local boulangerie “Saveurs de store. Continue on Rue Vieille to 3pm. Located a few minutes Pains” on 32 rue Vieille du du Temple on your right for away on Place Baudoyer Temple, where you can find G20 supermarket. Also, there is Just near Hôtel de Ville. good-quality baguettes, a Francprix and another freshly made G20 supermarket at sandwiches, and simple, Metro St Paul and In France wine and spirits can delicious pastries like a Monop on Rue de Rivoli be purchased at convenience tarte aux abricots with 1 block towards Bastille. stores as well as supermarkets. pistachio nuts. There For fresh food market go are even a few tables if to rue Rambuteau. For some wine advice, try La you want to eat there. Belle Horthense, 31 rue Vieille For groceries: Turn right du Temple. Twice a week try the local open outside. At the intersection Rue food market Marche Baudoyer

❖ Where are the Museums and Monuments?

Château de Versailles Musee Carnavalet RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche 23 rue de Sevigne Closed on Monday Metro St Paul (line1) Closed on Monday Musée du Louvre Metro Palais-Royal Musée du Louvre (line 1 or 7) Giverny Closed Tuesday (located 76km outside Paris) Take the train from St Lazare to Vernon Centre Pompidou Metro Rambuteau (line11) Closed Tuesday

Musée d’Orsay Metro Invalides (line 8) Closed Monday

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Map of the Area 36 Rue Vieille du Temple 75004, Paris

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Map of the Area 36 Rue Vieille du Temple 75004, Paris

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RESTAURANT SUGGESTIONS RECOMMENDED BY PARIS RENTAL CONNECTIONS

Preston Mohr’s Restaurant List

Preston Mohr, is an American born wine expert and wine educator, based in Paris, where he has made his home for over 12 years. After falling deeply in love with France’s food and wine culture while studying abroad, he now specializes in old- world wine with a special passion for the wines of the Champagne & Bordeaux regions.

He is the founder of Paris By The Glass (www.parisbytheglass.com), offering wine and gourmet tours and tastings in France’s most historical and prestigious vineyards.

Reservations are recommended at of the following restaurants.

Neva Cuisine 2, rue de Berne 75008 Phone : 01 45 22 18 91

Neva Cuisine is my number one go-to for updated and flawlessly executed French cuisine. The two young chefs here left everything behind at a famous Michelin starred restaurant to start their own place. The 3 course menu at 41€ is a steal in terms of quality and presentation. The interior is that of a classic brasserie, however it has been revisited with modern, très chic and sleek style. They also run the equally as delicious Restaurant Coretta (151, rue Cardinet 75017 Phone 01 42 26 55 55) if they are booked, try this.

La Fontaine de Mars 129 Rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Phone: 01 47 05 46 44

You probably won’t be the only person speaking English here, but its touristy location doesn’t have an impact on the quality. This family owned and operated restaurant serves some of the most delicious and simple French fare such as steak-frites, duck breast, beef tartare, etc. in a classic and pristinely kept bistro setting. The service here is sincere and professional and was good enough for President Obama during one of his official trips.

Le Boudoir 25 rue du Colisée 75008 Phone: 01 43 59 25 29

Chef Arnaud Nicolas has won the prestigious MOF award (meilleur ouvrier de France) for his charcuterie which you can savor, along with other revisited French classics, in this casual and cosy restaurant not far from the Champs Elysées. Front of the house manager Stéphane will take great care of you and recommend some fabulous and not expensive wines to accompany your food. The must-try is the pâté en croute, a beautiful mosaic of homemade pork pâté encased in a rich pastry crust. Comfortable, friendly service and centrally located !

Café des Musées 49 Rue de Turenne 75003 Phone : 01 42 72 96 17

It can be hard to find a good casual meal in the Marais these days. But fortunately, we have the Café des Musées, tucked away on a quiet corner of what is an otherwise chaotic touristy area. They specialize in traditional French food at reasonable prices, all served up in a classic Paris café atmosphere. The 21 Euro 3- course lunch menu is a bargain!

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Miroir 94 rue des Martyrs 75018 Phone : 01 46 06 50 73

Miroir is Montmartre's answer to fine dining. Located amongst the highest concentration of otherwise terrible and touristy restaurants, Miroir is a shining star. Their food would be categorized as French classics revisited, without being full of foams, reductions or anything too overworked. Their wine selection is excellent and all bottles can be purchased for take-away at their wine shop, Cave du Miroir, across the street.

Le Coq Rico 98 Rue Lepic, 75018 Phone: 01 42 59 82 89

This restaurant specializes in deluxe poultry, such as the poulet de Bresse or the yellow-footed chicken from the Landes in the Southwest of France. The entire bird is presented to you and cooked on a rotisserie spit with your choice of sides (this takes a approx. 45 minutes, so order starters). It’s a very fun place for a group of 4 or more so you can order an entire chicken for the table. Their other dishes are inventive and good as well, and their daily lunch special is a bargain. They take reservations on their website, which is a rarity in France.

Le Bon Georges 45 rue St. Georges 75009 Phone: 01 48 78 40 30

Le Bon Georges is a classic French bistro par excellence. The young and totally bilingual Benoit, who is so enthusiastic about the quality of his ingredients, runs this charming place. The products de terroir are excellent and they serve the best beef I’ve ever had in France (they serve it as various cuts of steaks, tartare and hand- sliced carpaccio). The menu changes each week depending on what’s available in the market, but there are always several beef dishes, a few fish options and usually a poultry option. The wine list is lengthy and Benoit is happy to help select for you!

La Rotonde 105 Boulevard Montparnasse 75006 Phone: 01 43 26 48 26

This is my favorite of the classic Parisian brasseries. With it’s recent renovation, bringing the interior back to its original red velvet banqueted glory, this is the perfect rainy-day restaurant for their home-made French onion soup followed by a wonderful steak from the celebrity butcher Hugo Desnoyer. The sole meunièure and the turbot are also excellent and worth the price. The service here is always attentive and friendly and the food uncomplicated and succulent. If you’re lucky enough to linger in one of the “boxes” (booths), lose yourself in the scenery and the faint clinking of glasses. In other words, a perfect place for no-frills but great food! Nice terrace in summer.

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Open-Air Markets:

Marché Bastille – This is the largest market in Paris with over 150 stalls selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meats, fish and clothing. Open Thursdays and Sundays from 8 am – 2 pm. 8 Boulevard de Richard Lenoir 75011 (metro Bastille or Bréguet- Sabin).

Marché Raspail – Thursdays & and all organic market on Sunday morning from 8 am – 2 pm on Boulevard Raspail Raspail between rue du Cherche Midi & rue de Rennes Paris 75006.

Marché d’Aligre – One of the most atmospheric and authentic indoor & outdoor markets in a typical, non-tourist area of Paris. Open everyday except Mondays from 8 am – 2 pm.

Cheese Affineurs:

Androuet –

One of Paris’s oldest and best cheese shops, established in 1909. Large selection of aged French cheeses. Several locations throughout Paris : http://androuet.com/fromage-paris-5-France-6-fromagerie.html

Marie Quartrehomme –

Another fantastic family-run cheese shop. The owner is a MOF (meuilleur ovrier de France – or best tradesperson of France). http://www.quatrehomme.fr/

Wine Bars:

See Preston’s recent article on the best wine bars in Paris: http://www.driftwoodjournals.com/top-6-wine-bars-in-paris-a-sommeliers-guide/

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Z&J’s Guide to Eating and Drinking in Paris

September 3, 2016 Martin | Boire et Manger: One of our top picks!

We know one of the first questions you will have coming off the airplane is “where are we going to eat?” The challenge of course won’t be finding a restaurant, it will be choosing! So Jaymes our knowledgeable blog writer, web designer and once our Paris agent and his wife Zel compiled this comprehensive list of their favourite eats and drinks for their many wedding guests who came to Paris. They have kindly shared it with us. You may find it biased towards their own area of Paris but as Jaymes always says it has the best food in town!

Paris is one of the defining culinary capitals of the world, if for no other reason than it’s at the geographic center of France and Europe’s diverse agricultural regions. As a result, Paris is supplied with daily fresh deliveries of produce, meats, seafood, dairy products and countless other comestibles. Whether it’s oysters from Bretagne, foie gras from the Aquitaine, Choucroute garnis from Alsace, Cassoulet from the Languedoc or simply champagne from Champagne, Paris doesn’t have a specific culinary tradition of its own per se, but is rather the center point where all of France’s culinary traditions converge and are put on display at the highest level.

Steak-Frites

Our top pick for Paris’ most signature dish would have to be the original Le Bistrot Paul Bert (18 rue Paul Bert 75011). Their Côte de Boeuf (Prime Rib), served for two people, with a side plate of hand cut, expertly fried potatoes is simply perfection. This is not for the faint of heart or stomach, so come hungry and be prepared! They have an extensive wine list as well, with many great natural wines form Bourgogne that pair nicely.

Our second choice is the timeless Relais de l’Entrecôte (15 rue Marbeuf, 8th Arr.). While Paul Bert boasts a variety of classic French dishes on it’s menu, Relais is purely steak frites. Thinly sliced and served with their mysterious green sauce, Relais is an experience of its own. You certainly won’t escape the tourists eating here, but you won’t be disappointed with the meal either. We highly recommend the Dâme Blanche for dessert. A head’s up though, the waitresses will be a little on the cold and gruff side…consider it part of the Parisian charm.

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Soufflé

Our top pick for a genuine French soufflé is also Le Bistrot Paul Bert. Their gargantuan, not overly sweet vanilla soufflé ladeled with Grand Marnier (orange liqueur) is masterfully prepared and absolutely delicious. Save room for it!

Crêpes

Our top pick for crêpes is a toss up between Chez Imogene (25 rue Jean-Pierre Rimbaud 11th Arr.) and Lulu La Nantaise (67 rue de Lancry, 10th Arr.). Both are fantastic examples of brettone-style crêperies offering genuine blé-noir (buckwheat) crêpes and galettes from Bretagne (Brittany). LINGO TIP: A crêpe with savory ingredients is actually a galette, which is folded in a square. A crêpe is sweet and generally served in the more familiar triangular shape.

Croque Monsieur/Madame

This traditional bar munchie has gone on to achieve some what of a mythic status in the culinary world. Perhaps it’s just the simplicity of toasted cheese and ham. However, finding one in Paris that’s not been reheated from a refrigerator can be a daunting task. Thanks to our friends Jakob and Julie, we were introduced to Café La Fusée (168 rue Saint Martin, 3rd Arr.) a few years ago. Aside from just being a great all around, hole-in-the wall wine bar near the Centre Pompidou Art Museum, they serve some of the best Croques in Paris. Stacked triple decker high and topped with chives, it should satisfy the craving. LINGO TIP: A Croque Monsieur and a Croque Madame are identical, except that a Croque Madame is served with a sunny-side egg on top.

Confit de Canard (Duck Confit)

Duck confit is another list topper for foodies heading to Paris. Consisting of a duck leg, fried and preserved in it’s rendered fat with aromatics, the real magic of this dish is when it’s reheated to a crisp in the oven and served with potatoes. Our top pick would have to be Bistrot des Oies (2 Rue Marie et Louise, 10th Arr.). Their home made and preserved duck confit is a perfect example of this dish. However, be sure to dine here early as they often run out!

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Foie Gras

Perhaps France’s most infamous dish, foie gras comes in many different varieties, but almost uniformly always comes at a high price tag. Thankfully, Les Fabricants (61 rue Jean- Pierre Rimbaud, 11th Arr.) makes their own foie gras maison, served year-round. At 10 euros for a generous serving, this is an excellently prepared and very accessible entry point into the divine world of foie gras.

Mousse au Chocolat

As a fellow food enthusiast, Zela’s cousin Raffi would agree that the best address for the “vraie” chocolate mousse in Paris is Chez Janou (2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 3rd Arr.). Brought to you in a largepot that you could practically swim in, it’s a chocolate lover’s dream come true.

Millefeuille

Le Bar Fleuri

Thin slices of delicate puff pastry mounted between rows of crème patissière, a good millefeuille should be surprisingly light and not overly sweet. Here are two spots where we know they serve it just right:

Café de La Mairie: 8 Place Saint Sulpice, 6th Arr. This old school café stretches it’s terrace out across the side walk, offering dramatic views of the impressive Saint Sulpice church. While the food here is often a little overpriced for what it is, it’s worth coming here for a coffee and a slice of their Millefeuille and to soak in the ambience of this classic Left Bank terrace.

Le Bar Fleuri: 1 rue du Plateau, 19th Arr. The opposite of the Café de la Mairie in terms of price and style, Le Bar Fleuri is well off the beaten path near Buttes-Chaumont, Paris’ impressive, hilly park. This hole-in-the-wall, old- school neighborhood brasserie is a rare gem from a past era. While most renowned for their 7 euro plate of roast chicken and fries, one of the absolute best cheap eats in the whole city, Le Bar Fleuri also makes one of the best Millefeuilles. No frills and under no fancy showcase, their old-school millefeuille sits out by the bar on large baking trays and is generously sliced to order. This is the real deal.

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Pâtisserie (French Pastry)

L’escargot chocolate pistachio from Du Pain et Des Idées

While Italy can match France in terms of varieties of cheese and wine and Spain can rival in the cured meats department, there’s one culinary domain where France is untouchable: Bread and Pastry. Bakeries,

or boulangeries, have been at the centre of French life for centuries and are still found on nearly every corner of Paris today. While almost any boulangerie in Paris is liable to serve good bread and pastry, they’re not all created equally. Here are a few stand out addresses that offer the best examples:

Du Pain et Des Idées: 34 rue Yves Toudic, 10th Arr. Simply put, this is one of the most reputable bakeries in all of Paris. Just take one step inside and you’ll realize this is truly a unique place. Using only the highest quality ingredients and the most traditional of techniques, Du Pain is truly a step back in time. Aside from the finest examples of French pastry classics, like croissants, baguettes and pains au chocolat, their escargots (snail shipped spirals of delicate, flaky puff pastry) are the house specialty. We especially recommend the one with pistachios.

Utopie: 20 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th Arr. Utopie is a new startup bakery run by two young, innovative bakers who have brought many nuances and innovations to traditional French bread and pastry. Their croissants are simply perfect and they make our favorite chausson aux pommes. But our favorite is the tarte vanille, a delicate tart shell filled with decadent vanilla cream made with very real and very potent vanilla.

Ladurée Bonaparte: 21 rue Bonaparte, 6th Arr. Ladurée is a classic institution in Paris. Originally opening it’s doors as a humble bakery, Ladurée transformed itself into one of the first high-end pastry boutiques in Paris and today is considered the archetype. The tea room at their original location on the Champs-Elysées also became a central meeting point for affluent women and the feminist movement in France at the turn of the 19th century. Their success led to the opening of several other boutiques throughout the city, of which are personal favorite is the one at 21 rue Bonaparte in the heart of St. Germain-dès-Prés. This quieter, more laid back location is unique because of it’s luxurious oriental tea room. The voluminous space is naturally lit from the glass ceiling above and is adorned with elegant tapestries and murals. It’s the perfect location to relax for an afternoon tea and macaron.

Pierre Hermé: Many Locations The current reigning king of innovation in the world of Macarons, Pierre Hermé has many locations throughout the Paris. A quick google maps search can find the boutique closest to your accommodations. Offering many wild and adventurous flavor combinations, this is our top pick to try France’s most luxurious pastry. The friendly, professional staff at each location often speak English and will gladly explain the different varieties and make flavor pairing suggestions for you.

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OUR TOP WINE BARS

Just like pastry and bread, it’s hard to have a ‘bad’ glass of wine per se in Paris. However, most restaurants and cafés don’t stray too far form the beaten paths of wines that are nowadays quite prominent in the states. So here are a few address where you can truly discover for yourself new and trending wines in France that haven’t quite yet landed stateside:

La Barrette Rouge

La Barrette Rouge: 10 rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th Arr. Dangerously located just downstairs from our apartment, this relatively unpublicized wine cave is everything we love about current wine culture in Paris. It’s laid back with no frills and no pretensions. Just a few friendly faces with one common goal in life, drinking good, affordable wine. They have a very eclectic selection of natural wines and non-AOC, off-the-wall varieties (rosé pétillant?). They also serve wonderfully fresh and delicious small plates. We highly recommend whatever bottle they have open behind the bar on any given night and their burrata (the real deal) with antipasti plate.

Martin | Boire et Manger: 24 Boulevard du Temple, 11th Arr.

If La Barrette Rouge is everything we love about contemporary wine culture in France, then Martin is everything we love about the whole contemporary French culinary pantheon. Adapting fresh and innovative French, néobistrot cuisine to the affordable and socially casual format of Spanish tapas, Martin is a perfect place to gather with friends and share good food and wine. Their menu of small plates changes daily, making it easy to explore many different types of dishes on any given evening. Their list of natural wines is exquisite and equally accessible. It’s also one of the few places in Paris where you can be assured of being served an ice-cold beer that is artisinally crafted and is 4 euros a pint all night long.

Verjus: 47 rue de Montpellier, 1st Arr. Verjus is both a restaurant and a wine bar, opened by an American couple who rose to culinary prominence in Paris back when they ran a private supper club in their apartment. While the restaurant will require reservations, the wine bar downstairs is pretty laid-back and offers a fantastic selection of regional wines and exquisite champagnes. Not to mention, it’s directly across the street from the Palais Royal, meaning after a glass or three you can go for a magical stroll beneath the stone arcades.

OUR TOP COCKTAIL BARS

Candelaria

Candelaria: 52 Rue de Saintonge, 3rd Arr. We’re quite sure that everyone who has ever come to visit us in Paris has probably come with us at some point to Candelaria. Regularly reputed as one of the best cocktail bars in the world, Candelaria has become a Paris standard. At first glance a no frills,

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California-style taco bar in the front, step through the white door that would presumably lead to the kitchen pantry and step into a dimly lit speakeasy, serving up innovative, delicious and deceptively potent elixirs. We recommend also having some tacos from the restaurant up front, especially if their margarita machine is churning out frozen, tamarind-infused margaritas.

Le Mary Celeste: 1 Rue Commines, 3rd Arr. Run by the same team behind Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste serves an equally impressive selection of cocktails, as well as exquisitely prepared small plates to accompany them. A local favorite and list topper for visitors during fashion week, be sure to get here early to get a table.

Pas de Loup: 108 Rue Amelot, 11th Arr. Developed by former members of the team behind Candelaria, Pas de Loup also has an amazing cocktail selection, but with a greater emphasis on food and wine as well. Whether stopping by for an apéritif and a small plate for happy hour, or planning to stay through dinner and cocktails, you can’t really go wrong here.

Harry’s New York Bar: 5 rue Daunou, 2nd Arr. While the aforementioned bars are at the forefront of contemporary cocktails in Paris, Harry’s may well be the birthplace of the movement. Passing through the swinging saloon doors, Harry’s New York Bar is half museum, half time-machine. To give you an idea, such immortal drink recipes as the Bloody Mary, French 75 and the Side Car were born here. This old haunt has been frequented by such iconoclasts as Ernest Hemingway, Coco Chanel, Humphrey Bogart, George Gershwin and even fictionally by James Bond in Ian Flemming’s 1960 novel, From A View to a Kill.

CRAFT BEER IN PARIS

Hoppy Corner

For all of the things Paris is traditionally renowned for, beer has not been one of them. However, in the last 5 years or so craft beer has exploded in France and like most other areas of the culinary world, Paris has become center stage for some of the most exciting breweries popping up all over Europe. Here are some the best addresses for craft beers in Pairs:

Hoppy Corner: 34 Rue des Petits Carreaux, 2nd Arr. Hands down, our favorite beer bar of the moment. The bar itself is quite sophisticated in appearance, but the guys behind the bar are super laid-back and eager to help you pick from 1 of 20 craft beers on tap at any moment. Ranging form light to dark, hoppy to malty, there’s something for everyone, along with a regularly changing menu of glorified bar munchies to eat alongside. They also serve toasted spent grains from the brewing process as a free munchie, which is surprisingly addicting.

La Fine Mousse: 4 bis Avenue Jean Aicard, 11th Arr. One of the first craft beer bars that started it all, La Fine Mousse also has 20 craft beers on draft at any moment and serve exquisite cheese and charcuterie plates to accompany them. Their big leather chairs and rustic stone interior make this an easy bar to hang out in for a whole evening! 19

Les Trois 8: 11 Rue Victor Létale, 2oth Arr. Same format as the two bars mentioned above, Les Trois 8 is slightly smaller and cozier with an ever impressive beer selection.

Deck and Donahue: 71 Rue de la Fraternité, 93100 Montreuil Perhaps Paris’ best local craft brewery, take a trip out to the Montreal suburb of Paris and say hello to our friend Mike Donahue and sample some of their latest brews right at the source! They have an open house most weekends from 11am to 3pm.

WORLD CUISINE IN PARIS

Italy in Paris

Epicerie Musicale

“Only Paris is worthy of Rome; only Rome is worthy of Paris” reads the sister city pact between two of the world’s greatest cities. In the culinary domain, you could say the same thing overall about France and Italy. Due to France’s next-door proximity to Italy, there are many Italian epiceries, or food shops, that get weekly, if not daily deliveries of fresh products straight from their home country. It’s for this reason that Paris is probably the best place outside of Italy to have ‘real’ Italian food. Here’s our go-to spots:

Epicerie Musicale: 55 Bis Quai de Valmy, 10th Arr. One of our absolute favorite spots in Paris period. Through friends we’ve gotten to know the owners over the past few years and this has quickly become our go-to place to meet up with friends. Superbly decorated with mid-century, modern Italian furniture and appointments, the ambience is completed with soul and blues music coming straight off vinyl from the turntable next to the kitchen counter. This is the place to have a Spritz, the internationally renowned cocktail from Venezia, made authentically with your choice of bitter: Aperol, Cynar or Campari, or in the honor of our good friend Francesco Fioretto, a blend of Aperol and Cynar, known appropriately as a Fioretto. Pair your spritz with their large assiette (plate of antipasti, exquisite aged Italian cheeses, fresh, authentic burrata and a very refined selection of Italian charcuterie).

Mmmmozza: 57 Rue de Bretagne This small Italian sandwich shop is all about one thing: Mozzarella and all of its glorious incarnations. This is by far our favorite sandwich shop. On your choice of focaccia, ciabatta or baguette, you get a whole ball of fresh burrata with your choice of such ingredients as sun- dried tomatoes, roasted eggplants, mortadella, jambon di parma, or capicola. Perfectly situated across from the beautiful park and garden, the Square du Temple, grab your sandwich and take a seat on the grass!

Pozzetto: 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile What started as a gelato shop has expanded into a full-fledged Italian epicerie. One of our favorite spots deep in the Marais, the guys that run Pozzetto are super nice and welcoming. Our recommendation would be to share their mixed assortment of 24 month-aged parmesan and fine Italian charcuterie with some ice-cold, red label Peroni beers. Save room for a scoop of their artisanal gelato afterwards!

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Lisbon in Paris

Don Antonià

If there’s one city we love as much as Paris, it’s Lisbon. It’s the best of California and Europe combined: The Climate of LA, the hills overlooking the bay and the distinctive bridge of San Francisco, all combined the timeless architecture of a European city. Given these qualities, Lisbon has become a popular destination for French people on vacation, leading to a rise in popularity of Portuguese cuisine and culture in France. As a result, many Portuguese chefs and restaurant owners have opened up some great places in Paris:

Comme À Lisbonne: 37 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th Arr. Originally just a 2 meter wide coffee shop nestled between other shops on a small street in the Marais, Comme à Lisbon has since expanded next door into their small restaurant, Tasca. This is one of the best places to try the Pasteis di Nata pastry, a traditional recipe originating form the Portuguese monks in the city of Belèm outside of Lisbon, consisting of a smooth custard inside a shell of puff pastry. Subtle and not overly sweet, it’s the perfect accompaniment to a portugese coffee or hot chocolate!

Don Antonia: Rue de la Grange Aux Belles, 10th Arr. Recently opened along the Canal Saint Martin, Don Antonia is a beautiful little bakery that serves many different varieties of the famed Pasteis, plus a whole selection of traditional Portuguese breads, pastries and small snacks, such as black bean and tuna salad and fried cod fritters. The charming, pastel-colored mid-century décor makes for a delightful, retro coffee shop vibe and a great place to head to on a quiet weekend morning in Paris.

A Taste of the Middle East

Urfa Durum Paris’s large community of Mediterranean cultures from the Middle East provide the city with a smorgasbord of diverse cuisine. While there are no shortage of greasy kebab shops that should be avoided, we can recommend some authentic places that just might be one of the culinary highlights of your trip!

Genç Urfa: 11 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th Arr. This Kurdish joint is our top pick for lahmajun, the traditional middle eastern flat-bread with minced meat, baked to a crisp and served with fresh vegetables and herbs. One of the best cheap eats in Paris and one that never disappoints. The little tables out front are fun to sit at and take in the view of the overlooking stone Arch, l’Arche de Saint-Denis.

Urfa Durum: 58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th Arr. Just up the street from Genç Urfa, is another one of our favorite Kurdish sandwich shops, whose lamb kebab sandwich, cooked traditionally over open coals, is one the best kebabs in all of Paris.

L’As du Falaffel: 34 Rue des Rosiers, 4th Arr. A trip to Paris wouldn’t be complete without one of the Marais’ most famous falafel sandwiches. In the heart of the Jewish quarter near metro Saint-Paul, L’As du Falafel rather

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undisputedly has the best falafel in Paris. However, be prepared to wait in line on the weekend, as tourists cue up around the corner!

Le Petit Phénicien– 101 Rue Oberkampf, 11th Arr. Le Petit Phénicien is our go-to Lebanese spot. Everything from their chiche taouk (chargrilled chicken) sandwich to their tabouleh, moutabol and labneh are spot on. They’re open late too, so if you’re out for the night along rue Oberkampf, bypass the greasy kebab and crêpe shops and head straight here!

Bonjour Vietnam Bo Bun at Le Cambodge

Saigon Sandwich– 8 Rue de la Présentation, 11th Arr. A bit of a trek into Paris’ more colorful, but trending Belleville quarter, Saigon Sandwich is one of the most authentic Banh Mi joints in the city and one of the best deals period. The charming Vietnamese man and his family who run the place even bake their own baguettes Vietnamese style. Their house sandwich, complete marinated pork, chicken or beef, with cilantro and authentic Vietnamese red chilis are less than 4 euros and well worth the trek.

Le Cambodge – 10 Avenue Richerand, 10th Arr. This staple near the Canal St. Martin is kind of the opposite of Saigon Sandwich. The deco and the location clearly appeal to the trendy demographic of the area in place of the authenticity that’s a little rough around the edges in Belleville. But, their Bo Bûn is absolutely delicious and one of the best of examples of the dish we’ve ever had. Do come early though, because if there’s one thing Parisians consume as much as wine and cigarettes, it’s bo bûn and this place get’s bumping later on into the evening.

Little Japan

Okonomiyaki at Happy Teï

The Japanese quarter of Paris is an authentic dining experience not to be missed. Head to rue Saint-Anne near the Opéra Garnier, and you’ll have countless Japanese restaurants to choose from. Here are our favorites:Hokkaido: 14 Rue Chabanais Hot, fresh and fulfilling! This Japanese rice and noodle house serves some of the most authentic and hot (emphasis on both temperature and spice) Japanese food in Paris. This can be quite a popular place on weekends and at lunch time, so plan accordingly and come very, very hungry.

Happy Teï: 64 Rue Sainte-Anne THE PLACE to have okonomiyaki in Paris. The rather indescribable cabbage pancake with numerous toppings, ranging from octopus to shaved bacon, is an experience in its own. The restaurant itself has a very charming and cozy upstairs dining area as well. Well worth the visit for the adventurous foodie!

Dosanko Lamen– 40 Rue Sainte-Anne This is our go-to Ramen and Gyoza joint. The massive pot of boiling stock positioned right next to the window should give you an idea of the authenticity of this place. For spice lovers, we recommend trying the Kim-Chi-based ramen! 22

Please leave your Restaurant Suggestions:

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❖ The Musee d’Orsay and Rue du Bac Walking Tour

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❖ The Marais Walking Tour 2 (Eclectic)

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❖ The Marais Walking Tour 3 (Chic and Beautiful)

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❖ Useful French Vocabulary

Greetings

Hello/Good morning Bonjour. Good evening Bonsoir. Good night Bonne nuit. Goodbye Au revoir. Yes Oui No Non. Maybe Peut-être Please S’il vous plaît Thank you Merci You’re welcome Je vous en prie Excuse me Excusez-moi I’m sorry Pardon How are you? Comment allez-vous? (formal) Comment vas-tu?/Comment ça va? (informal) Signs Entrance Entrée Exit Sortie Open Ouvert Closed Fermé Browsers welcome Entrée libre Free admission Entrée libre Full/no vacancies Complet Information Reseignements Cash Register Caisse Police station Commissariat de police Men Hommes Women Femmes

Getting Around What times does the ...leave/arrive? A quelle heure part/arrive…? Bus (city) l’autobus/le bus Bus (intercity) l’autocar/ le car Train le train Where is (the)…? Où est…? Bus stop L’arrêt d’autobus/ l’arrêt de bus Metro station La station de métro Train station la gare Ticket office le guichet I’d like a ...ticket Je voudrais un billet… One way aller-simple Return Trip aller-retour 1st class première classe 2nd class deuxième classe

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❖ Useful French Vocabulary

Getting Around (continued)

The train is… Le train est... Delayed en retard On time à l’heure Early en avance cancelled annulé

Around Town

I’m looking for… Je cherche… A bank/exchange office une banque/un bureau de change

City center centre ville Post office le bureau de poste/ la poste A public phone une cabine téléphonique Market le marché

I would like to change je voudrais changer some money/ de l’argent Travelers cheques chèques de voyages

Directions

How do I get to…? Comment je vais à/au…? To the metro station à la station de métro To Sacred Heart au Sacré Coeur Can you show me…? Pouvez vous me montrer …? on the map sur le plan Go straight Continuez tout droit Turn left Tournez à gauche Turn right Tournez à droite

Food

breakfast le petit déjeuner lunch le déjeuner dinner le dîner

A starter/appetiser une entrée Main course le plat principal Dessert un dessert

Set menu prix fixe/ un menu The menu le menu/la carte

Check please! L’addition s’il vous plait! Do you accept credit Acceptez vous les cartes Cards de crédits Tip un pourboire

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❖ Useful numbers

PARIS RENTAL CONNECTIONS

Paris Agent: 06 37 53 85 23

London Office: +44 208 961 6770

Commissariat (Police): dial 17

Pompiers (Fire Department): dial 18

SAMU (Emergency Medical Assistance): dial 15

Emergency: 112

SOS Anti-poison (anti poison hotline): 01 40 05 48 48 SOS Dentist: 01 43 36 36 00 SOS Medecin (emergency doctor’s hotline): 01 47 07 77 77 SOS Pediatre (emergency children doctor): 01 40 03 22 73

ENGLISH SPEAKING PRIVATE HOSPITAL

American Hospital: 01 46 41 25 25 63, Bd Victor Hugo 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine

TRAVEL

Info SNCF (Train service info): 08 92 35 35 35

Taxi G7 English: 01 41 27 66 99 Taxi G7: 01 47 39 47 39 Taxi G7 Monospace : 01 47 39 01 39

Chauffeur Services : Sébastien Bazin 24/7 Cell phone: +33 6 60 43 70 39 . Email: [email protected]. Website: http://chauffeursdemaitre.com/?lang=en_US

For home service deliveries, concierge services and orientation tours, Karina at Travel Light Paris offers paniers of carefully chosen delicious French food delivered to you on arrival. She also offers orientation tours of your neighbourhood, visits to local markets, personalized itinerary planning and insider tips, plus booking of tickets and activities to help you make the most of your stay in Paris! www.travellightparis.com Guided Tours: Paris Off the Beaten Track. Marie-Theres Berger – Official guide. Private walking tour is for a delightful introduction to the city’s history and neighborhoods. The tours can be arranged at your convenience. http://promenadesaparis.blogspot.co.uk/

EMBASSIES:

American Embassy. 2, rue St-Florentin, 1er. 01 43 12 23 47 Australian Embassy. 4, rue Jean Rey, 15e. 01 40 59 33 00 British Embassy: 01 44 51 31 00 35, rue du Faubourg St Honoré, 8e. Canadian Embassy. 35, avenue Montaigne, 8e. 01 44 43 29 00. Irish Embassy. 12, avenue Foch, 16e. 01 44 17 67 00 New Zealand Embassy 01 45 01 43 43 7ter, rue Léonard da Vinci, 16e.

Paris Agent: 06 59 00 04 11

London Office: +44 208 961 6770

Commissariat (Police): 29dial 17

Pompiers (Fire Department): dial 18

SAMU (Emergency Medical Assistance): dial 15

Emergency: 112