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Canada's First 100-Point Table Wine

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Canada's First 100-Point Table Wine Product: TGAM PubDate: 06-08-2019 Zone: Isl Edition: 1 Page: PURSUITS_2825995 User: SLaloudakis Time: 06-03-201916:52 Color: CMYK SATURDAY,JUNE 8, 2019 | THE GLOBE AND MAIL I PURSUITS | P15 of everyone telling me, no mat- has really raised the cultural eries courage: that we can do ter how good the wine was, that bar in the Okanagan. What extraordinary things and sur- Canada’s B.C. wine was undrinkable and inspired you? prise the world. I’m hoping that they’d never buy it. But the the work we do that nobody worst words you can say to me is The really formative period for else is doing – with our five vit- first 100-point “It’s just good enough” or “It me was when I was 9 and my iculturalists and our technical can’t be done.” Those are just parents took us back to Europe. I centre and drones to map our red flags to a bull. was put into school in Switzer- vineyards – I’m hoping it will table wine That was [winemaker] John land. My uncle was a well- encourage others to do the Simes’s first vintage after he ar- known artist in Prague and be- same and bring more expertise rived. He was New Zealand’s top ing thrown into the arts and de- in. CheckMate’s Anthony von Mandl talks to winemaker and I somehow con- sign and painting and music and Charlene Rooke about what it means that vinced him to come over in 1991 food, particularly, was very, very Will people pay $100 for and join us, even though we had formative. It left me with this aCanadian wine? his winery’s 2015 Little Pawn Chardonnay really no money. And he discov- commitment, to build for the received a perfect score ered this vineyard, the Dekleva long-term, for the people that The challenge is we don’t make Vineyard down in Oliver, which will be here after us. a lot. You can only buy Check- is part of CheckMate today and That’s why I work with people Mate at a few top restaurants or the first time, a Canadian a“climate-change enabled win- has that amazing clone of char- like Tom Kundig, this [Seattle- across Canada, or at the winery. table wine has received a ery.” What do you mean by that? donnay. based] starchitect who is so We want to make sure Check- F100-point perfect score. The While I was in London accept- down to earth. We are building Mate wines go to people who 2015 Little Pawn Chardonnay We brought in Dr. Gregory Jones ing the award, I got a call from what will be a real jewel of a really care. This pristine valley made by winemaker Philip from Oregon, one of the pre- the winery saying that the roof winery. … We are building for and these beautiful lakes are McGahan at CheckMate Artisa- eminent experts on climate might collapse and we didn’t 100, 200, 300 years. If you knew one of the most beautiful, not nal Winery in Oliver, B.C., won change and viticulture. He said have any more money to fix it. that your children’s children’s just wine regions, but regions the accolade from author and Napa is the ideal place for grow- That’s how tight things were. It’s children would live in the home of the world. I don’t think we wine critic John Schreiner, who ing cabs and table grapes … but no different than making great you built today, would you build have really valued it enough wrote, “It is impossible to find it has shifted north for chardon- wines. If you plant vines in fer- it differently? That’s what we’re and we certainly don’t charge anything negative about this nay. tile soil, you’ll never get some- doing. enough. Our wines are a bar- wine.” The Okanagan is unique, be- thing exceptional out of it. The gain. The award is a vindication for cause everybody thought it was vines kind of have to suffer, and What does this 100-point score CheckMate’s proprietor, Antho- cool climate, but it’s not! It’s Iguess so did I. mean for the Okanagan and for Special to The Globe and Mail ny von Mandl, who started as a quite warm in the summer, but Canadian wine? twentysomething wine importer it has this short growing season Your wineries have dramatic This interview has been edited in 1970s Vancouver. He has and these crisp evenings and architecture, food and art that As in 1994, that gave other win- and condensed. made everything from fruit ci- falls and springs. We have ders to Mike’s Hard Lemonade – among the lowest rainfall of any transforming the Canadian bev- wine-growing region in the The CheckMate Artisanal Winery farms erage-alcohol industry along the world. If you get rain in the fall in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley will be way – in his quest to produce you have all sorts of challenges, 100-per-cent certified organic within the international-quality wine in the but our fruit is so pristine and next two years. Below left: CheckMate Okanagan Valley. Von Mandl clean, and we do so little to the winemaker Philip McGahan, who made shared with The Globe what the grapes, because the winter kills the 2015 Little Pawn Chardonnay. perfect score means for his win- so many of the bugs. Within two NORA HAMADE; MICK JONES ery and for the Okanagan. years all our farms will be 100- per-cent certified organic. We’re Your goal with CheckMate was seeing such change in the grapes to produce Burgundian-style already. The flavours are more chardonnay in the Okanagan intense. Valley. What makes these Okanagan wines so special? This is not the first time a chardonnay has put you on the The Okanagan Valley, in my map, is it? mind, is halfway between the New World and the Old World. Ibought an old Okana- The backbone of what we have gan winery – one of on- is this tremendous natural acid- ly five at the time – in ity. With all the incredible geo- 1981, and it was so logical activity we’ve seen in the many years of hard- valley, it gives us, even within ship. The first time I single plots, an amazing variety thought my dream had of soils and a complexity in the legs was in 1994, when fruit. We can do things in an Old we got a call from World way, making elegant somebody from the In- wines you can enjoy with food ternational Wine and that don’t have that huge alco- Spirit Competition say- hol and body. We’re really trying ing our Mission Hill to express the grapes and the Chardonnay had won soil, as opposed to using oak to top chardonnay in the provide flavour. world. I thought it was ajoke and I hung up. Ihave heard you call CheckMate This was after 13 years HOROSCOPES SALLY BROMPTON LAST SATURDAY’S ANSWERS SATURDAY, JUNE 8, 2019 CROSSWORD IF TODAY IS area of your chart this weekend you could get lucky with money, but you YOUR BIRTHDAY could also be far too extravagant and There will be times when you see any gains you make wasted. For every dollar you make, send 50 cents go all out to win fame and straight to the bank! fortune, and times when you cannot be bothered to interact SAGITTARIUS NOV. 23 – DEC. 21 with the world at all. You could Relationships are under good stars try to fi nd a midway point but over the next 48 hours, so be open to it’s unlikely to happen – you people who approach you and don’t enjoy bouncing back and forth think they want to get to know you between extremes. for selfish reasons. Even if they do you will benefi t too, maybe in ways ARIES MARCH 21 – APRIL 20 cannot be denied. You worry too you did not expect. This is potentially a great weekend for much Cancer. As always. social activities, especially those that CAPRICORN DEC. 22 – JAN. 20 require you to get out into the world. LEO JULY 24 – AUG. 23 There is no reason to push yourself If you are in the market for love you Spend time with friends and col- too hard today, or tomorrow come to may get lucky. If you are already in leagues who share your outlook on that. Cosmic activity in the work and love your relationship will move to a life, and your special brand of humor. well-being area of your chart urges much higher level. No matter how serious things may be you to slow down and enjoy the SUDOKUKENKEN in the world at large you can always things that life brings your way. The TAURUS APRIL 21 - MAY 21 fi nd something to laugh about, and less you do for yourself the better. The overall emphasis of your stars it feels great when you don’t laugh may be on money matters now but alone. AQUARIUS JAN. 21 – FEB. 19 don’t forget there are other things in Life is good and getting better by the your life that need seeing to. For start- VIRGO AUG. 24 – SEPT. 23 minute and with Venus now joining ers, what, and who, are you going to Just because someone occupies a po- the Sun in the most dynamic and spend all that money on in the near sition of authority does not mean you creative area of your chart you won’t future? have to do everything they say.
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