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Mount Everest Expeditions 1921, 1922 & 1924
Mount Everest Expeditions 1921, 1922 & 1924 A selection of books and ephemera from stock Meridian Rare Books Telephone: +44 (0)20 8694 2168 PO Box 51650 Email: [email protected] London www.meridianrarebooks.co.uk SE8 4XW VAT Reg. No.: GB 919 1146 28 United Kingdom Our books are collated in full and our descriptions aim to be accurate. We can provide further information and images of any item on request. If you wish to view an item from this catalogue, please contact us to make suitable arrangements. All prices are nett pounds sterling. VAT will be charged within the UK on the price of any item not in a binding. Postage is additional and will be charged at cost. Any book may be returned if unsatisfactory, in which case please advise us in advance. The present catalogue offers a selection of our stock. To receive a full listing of books in your area of interest, please enquire. Title-page image: Item 10 (detail) ©Meridian Rare Books 2021 1 Heron, A. M. ‘Geological Results of the Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedi- tion.’ An article in Records of the Geological Survey of India, Vol. LIV, Part 2, 1922. Calcutta: the Geological Survey of India, 1922. £65 First edition. 8vo. pp. [x, list of publications], [129]-239, [x, list of publications]; 5 plates from photos., one folding map and one section relating to Heron’s article, one other map; good in the original printed wrappers, bumped to extremities. Not in S&B. Heron joined the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance, surveying an area “of over 8000 square miles” in the Arun river drainage region in Tibet. -
A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
CONFIDENTIAL ** ** Teacher's Copy
** CONFIDENTIAL ** ** Teacher's Copy ** English Language Arts Packet 1 Standard 1: Students will read, write, listen, and speak for information and understanding. • Background Knowledge and Vocabulary Development Grade 6 1. Read the sentence. The young boy lost the shirt _____ received as a gift. Which word best completes the sentence? A) him B) he C) his D) himself ID Answer Points Difficulty Blooms BiserialP-Value NWEA-i-167170 B 1 Medium Analyzing n/a n/a The Origins of Toothpaste 1 Most Americans use toothpaste every day. Did you ever wonder how toothpaste came to be? Toothpaste did not have any one inventor; instead, it developed gradually over hundreds of years. 2 People in ancient India, China, Egypt, Greece, and Rome cleaned and polished their teeth with mixtures of rough materials, or abrasives, like dried flowers and crushed eggshells. Rubbing the abrasive onto the teeth with a finger or stick had an effect similar to using sandpaper. Some ancient recipes added herbs or honey to the mixture to improve the taste. 3 Persian writings a thousand years ago warned that using too rough an abrasive could harm the teeth. One Persian tooth powder recipe used burned snail shells and burned oyster shells together with the mineral gypsum. Page 2 ELA6Packet1 - - CONFIDENTIAL: TEACHER'S COPY - - 4 By the late 1700s in England, tooth powder was packaged in clay pots for sale. Every manufacturer used a different recipe or formula, but most powders included two basic kinds of ingredients: abrasives to clean and polish teeth and flavorings to improve the taste. Brick powder and ground china were common abrasives. -
Scaling the World's Most Challenging Summits Is Dangerous to Some. To
SCALING THE WORLD’S MOST CHALLENGING SUMMITS IS DANGEROUS TO SOME. TO DAVE HAHN, IT’S JUST A MATTER OF WALKING UPHILL A LITTLE LONGER THAN USUAL. KING SHEER FEAR OF THE HILLBY MICHAEL HAEDERLE photo: matthew turley matthew photo: 74 discovery channel magazine.com september 2009 75 WAS A LONG, COLD NIGHT IN After this first and most harrow- ROUTE TO THE TOP MAY 1994. CROUCHED ALONE ing success, Hahn went on to climb Hahn grew up in Kingston, New York, IIN A SNOWTSTORM 8,500 Everest a further ten times, more where his father, a former climber in than any other non-Sherpa, estab- Yosemite National Park, took him METRES UP ON THE NORTHEAST lishing himself as one of the world’s camping in the nearby Catskill and RIDGE OF MOUNT EVEREST leading high-altitude climbers. The Adirondack Mountains. As a teenag- lanky 47-year-old has also conquered er he visited his mother’s hometown – without oXYgen – DAVE the 4,897-metre Vinson Massif, the of Albuquerque, New Mexico, and HAHN HUNG ON FOR FIRST highest peak in Antarctica, a record scaled the craggy 3,255-metre Sandia LIGHT, DESPERATELY WILLING 26 times. Add to that 18 ascents of Crest. He returned to New Mexico af- Mount McKinley (also known as De- ter college to work as a ski instructor, HIMSELF TO STAY AWAKE AFTER nali) in Alaska and more than 250 but had an epiphany in 1985 when he 48 HOURS OF CONTINUOUS scalings of Mount Rainier in the US enrolled in a mountaineering course state of Washington and you have run by the Mount Rainier guide ser- CLIMBING. -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (From Wikipedia)
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (from Wikipedia) Everest is a 2015 survival film directed by Baltasar Kormákur and written by William Nicholson and Simon Beaufoy. The film stars are Jason Clarke, Josh Brolin, John Hawkes, Robin Wright, Michael Kelly, Sam Worthington, Keira Knightley, Emily Watson, and Jake Gyllenhaal. The film opened the 72nd Venice International Film Festival on September 2, 2015, and was released theatrically on September 18, 2015. It is based on the real events of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, and focuses on the survival attempts of two expedition groups, one led by Rob Hall (Jason Clarke) and the other by Scott Fischer (Jake Gyllenhaal). Survival films The survival film is a film genre in which one or more characters make an effort at physical survival. It often overlaps with other film genres. It is a subgenre of the adventure film, along with swashbuckler films (film di cappa e spada – like Zorro or Robin Hood), war films, and safari films. Survival films are darker than most other adventure films which usually focuses its storyline on a single character, usually the protagonist. The films tend to be "located primarily in a contemporary context" so film audiences are familiar with the setting, meaning the characters' activities are less romanticized. Thomas Sobchack compared the survival film to romance: "They both emphasize the heroic triumph over obstacles which threaten social order and the reaffirmation of predominant social values such as fair play and respect for merit and cooperation." [2] The author said survival films "identify and isolate a microcosm of society", such as the surviving group from the plane crash in The Flight of the Phoenix (1965) or those on the overturned ocean liner in The Poseidon Adventure (1972). -
Sheryl Falk: a Data Privacy Lawyer & Mount Everest Climber
Free Speech, Due Process and Trial by Jury Sheryl Falk: A Data Privacy Lawyer & Mount Everest Climber Sheryl Falk at a memorial to perished Everest climbers By Natalie Posgate (Jan. 25) – It’s not very often that Sheryl Falk gets to slow Winston’s firmwide mentoring program targeted at down, turn off her phone and think in-depth about her helping young associates. She also informally mentors life. As co-leader of Winston & Strawn’s global privacy several associates at the firm. and data security task force, the Houston partner is always on the go – traveling almost every week, She was inspired to open this new chapter in her career speaking at various conferences and ending her nights while trekking in the shadow of Mount Pumori, which staying abreast of all her work emails. lies eight kilometers west of Mount Everest. Named after the daughter of George Mallory, the famed British But Falk recently had an off-the-grid opportunity when mountaineer who was a leading member of the first she traded two-and-a-half weeks of billable hours for few expeditions of Mount Everest, Pumori means her No. 1 bucket list item: making the climb to Everest “Mountain Daughter” in the Sherpa language. Base Camp. “The mountains are so tall and glorious that you’re Falk returned from the trek not only fulfilling a lifelong literally trekking in the shadow of giants,” Falk told The dream but also with a new career goal: help advance Texas Lawbook. more younger women attorneys. “As I was trekking I was just in gratitude – I’m living the Falk is now part of the faculty of the University of life of my dreams, I’ve accomplished everything I’ve Texas’s 2019 Women in Law Institute, a full-day wanted. -
Nuptse 7,861M / 25,790Ft
NUPTSE 7,861M / 25,790FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES NUPTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to May 20, 2022 Duration: 42 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$38,900 per person Crossing ladders in the Khumbu Glacier. Photo: Charley Mace. During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Nuptse, a peak just shy of 8,000m that sits adjacent to the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest, and the world’s fourth highest mountain, Mount Lhotse. Sitting as it does, in the shadows of its more famous partners, Nuptse receives a relatively low number of EXPEDITION OUTLINE ascents. Nuptse’s climbing route follows the same We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, line of ascent as Everest as far as Camp 2, from where we meet for a team briefing, gear checks where we cross the Western Cwm to establish a and last-minute purchases before flying by fixed Camp 3 on Nuptse. From that position, we ascend wing into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley. We directly up the steep North East Face and into trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa Nuptse’s summit. The terrain involves hard ice, homelands via the Khumbu Valley Along the way, sometimes weaving through rocky areas and later we enjoy Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with lower angled snow slopes. good food, all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the The Nuptse climb will be operated alongside the lower Khumbu. Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition and therefore will enjoy the associated infrastructure We trek over the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), a and legendary Base Camp support. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
The 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition Limited Edition Platinum Prints
The 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition Limited Edition Platinum Prints (1) ‘Monks and the Administrator at Shekar Tschöde Monastery.’ Photographer: Charles Kenneth Howard-Bury (1881-1963) Celluloid Negative, MEE21/0339 TO ORDER For provenance and edition information please contact: [email protected] The 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition Limited Edition Platinum Prints (2) ‘Members of Expedition at 17,300 ft. Camp.’ Top, left to right: Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Heron, Raeburn. Bottom, left to right: Mallory, Wheeler, Bullock, Morshead. Photographer: Alexander Frederick Richmond Wollaston (1875-1930) Celluloid Negative, MEE21/0396 TO ORDER For provenance and edition information please contact: [email protected] The 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition Limited Edition Platinum Prints (3) ‘A group of Bhutias, Linga.' Photographer: George Leigh Mallory (1886-1924) Celluloid Negative, MEE21/0587 TO ORDER For provenance and edition information please contact: [email protected] The 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition Limited Edition Platinum Prints (4) ‘The Abbot of Shekar Chote.’ Photographer: Charles Kenneth Howard-Bury (1881-1963) Celluloid Negative, MEE21/0327 TO ORDER For provenance and edition information please contact: [email protected] The 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition Limited Edition Platinum Prints (5) Above: Untitled. Photographer: George Leigh Mallory (1886-1924) Celluloid Negative, MEE21/0907 Below: ‘Looking down Arun Valley from slopes south of Shiling.’ Photographer: George Leigh Mallory (1886-1924) Celluloid Negative, MEE21/0641 -
657 24 - 30 May 2013 20 Pages Rs 50
#657 24 - 30 May 2013 20 pages Rs 50 2009 GLACIERWORKS 1921 Changing climate for climbing ay 29 marks the 60th anniversary of the fi rst ascent of Mt MEverest by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. Much has changed on the world’s highest mountain since then, climbing has become commercialised taking away much of the risk and adventure that early explorers faced. But expeditions bring jobs and income to thousands of Nepalis and royalties for Everest alone earn the government Rs 250 million a year. As the Earth warms, Everest is melting, making climbing more diffi cult. Nepali Times brings you a special coverage of Everest 60: THE OTHER TENZING PAGE 3 PROFILE OF ELIZABETH HAWLEY PAGE 4 MAJOR EO WHEELER /ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY INTERVIEW WITH DAVID BREASHEARS PAGE 6 ICE TO WATER: The Kyetrak Glacier on the northern slope of Mt Cho Oyu in 1921 and again in 2009. Global warming is causing the Himalayan permafrost to melt at an accelerated rate. CLIMBING IN CLIMATE CHANGE PAGE 7 Many glacier snouts now have lakes in them, as seen on Kyetrak, posing a threat of fl ashfl oods EVEREST TIMELINE PAGE 10-11 downstream. While records are being set and broken on climbing Everest this season, the real record is the record melting on the fl anks of the world’s highest mountain. BOOK REVIEW: PENGUINS ON EVEREST PAGE 13 2 EDITORIAL 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 UNFINISHED BUSINESS epal’s 10 year conflict left 17,000 dead. It us (page 16-17) he still fervently believes he is a tragic irony of wars that the relatives was doing the right thing by taking up arms Nof the dead are the lucky ones. -
Nomination Form International Memory of the World Register
Nomination form International Memory of the World Register title of item being proposed 2014-39 1.0 Summary (max 200 words) Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing captured the world’s imagination in 1953 by conquering Everest, the highest mountain on earth, when everyone before them had failed. In 1953 the Order of Gorkha Dakshina was conferred on him by the King of Nepal. Hillary went on to explore places where no man had been before and dedicated much of his life to improving healthcare and education with and for the Sherpas. His enduring legacy in Nepal earned him the title of Surra Sahib (Big Man). Hillary’s heroic stature continues to grow on the international stage today, with the sixtieth anniversary of the ascent in 2013 attracting worldwide attention. Sir Edmund Hillary, KG,ONZ, KBE (1918-2008), renowned New Zealand mountaineer, explorer, environmentalist and philanthropist, bequeathed his personal archive of documents to Auckland Museum. The Sir Edmund Hillary Archive is a unique and substantial collection of personal papers, photographs, audio visual material and documents collected and largely written by Sir Edmund. Correspondence, diaries, drafts of books, lists of expedition supplies, scrapbooks, lecture notes and original photographs give first-hand account of his adventures and reveal the details and impact of his humanitarian and environmental work in India, Nepal, Antarctica and beyond. The Archive spans the second half of the 20th century through to the early 21st century. 2.0 Nominator 2.1 Name of nominator (person or organization)