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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
CONFIDENTIAL ** ** Teacher's Copy
** CONFIDENTIAL ** ** Teacher's Copy ** English Language Arts Packet 1 Standard 1: Students will read, write, listen, and speak for information and understanding. • Background Knowledge and Vocabulary Development Grade 6 1. Read the sentence. The young boy lost the shirt _____ received as a gift. Which word best completes the sentence? A) him B) he C) his D) himself ID Answer Points Difficulty Blooms BiserialP-Value NWEA-i-167170 B 1 Medium Analyzing n/a n/a The Origins of Toothpaste 1 Most Americans use toothpaste every day. Did you ever wonder how toothpaste came to be? Toothpaste did not have any one inventor; instead, it developed gradually over hundreds of years. 2 People in ancient India, China, Egypt, Greece, and Rome cleaned and polished their teeth with mixtures of rough materials, or abrasives, like dried flowers and crushed eggshells. Rubbing the abrasive onto the teeth with a finger or stick had an effect similar to using sandpaper. Some ancient recipes added herbs or honey to the mixture to improve the taste. 3 Persian writings a thousand years ago warned that using too rough an abrasive could harm the teeth. One Persian tooth powder recipe used burned snail shells and burned oyster shells together with the mineral gypsum. Page 2 ELA6Packet1 - - CONFIDENTIAL: TEACHER'S COPY - - 4 By the late 1700s in England, tooth powder was packaged in clay pots for sale. Every manufacturer used a different recipe or formula, but most powders included two basic kinds of ingredients: abrasives to clean and polish teeth and flavorings to improve the taste. Brick powder and ground china were common abrasives. -
Volume 30 # October 2014
Summit ridge of Rassa Kangri (6250m) THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 30 October 2014 CONTENTS Climbs and Explorations Climbs and Exploration in Rassa Glacier ................................................. 2 Nanda Devi East (7434m) Expedition 204 .............................................. 7 First Ascent of P6070 (L5) ....................................................................... 9 Avalanche on Shisha Pangma .................................................................. 9 First Ascent of Gashebrum V (747m) .....................................................0 First Ascent of Payu Peak (6600m) South Pillar ......................................2 Russians Climb Unclimbed 1900m Face of Thamserku .........................3 The Himalayan Club - Pune Section The story of the club’s youngest and a vibrant section. ..........................4 The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section Commemoration of Birth Centenary of Tenzing Norgay .........................8 The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section Journey through my Lense - Photo Exhibition by Mr. Deepak Bhimani ................................................9 News & Views The Himalayan Club Hon. Local Secretary in Kathmandu Ms. Elizabeth Hawley has a peak named after her .................................9 Climbing Fees Reduced in India ............................................................. 22 04 New Peaks open for Mountaineering in Nepal ................................ 23 Online Show on Yeti ............................................................................... -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
SEVEN SUMMITS Aspiration Becoming Accomplishment
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG MAY/JUNE 2012 • VOLUME 106 • NO. 3 MountaineerE X P L O R E • L E A R N • C O N S E R V E SEVEN SUMMITS Aspiration becoming accomplishment Inside: Overseas climbing tips, pg. 12 National Trails Day events, pg. 17 Lightweight, calorie-loaded foods, pg. 20 Photo contest 2012 inside May/June 2012 » Volume 106 » Number 3 12 Cllimbing Abroad 101 Enriching the community by helping people Planning your first climb abroad? Here are some tips explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest. 14 Outdoors: healthy for the economy A glance at the value of recreation and preservation 12 17 There is a trail in need calling you Help out on National Trails Day at one of these events 18 When you can’t hike, get on a bike Some dry destinations for National Bike Month 21 Achieving the Seven Summits Two Olympia Mountaineers share their experiences 8 conservation currents New Alpine Lakes stewards: Weed Watchers 18 10 reachING OUT Great people, volunteers and partners bring success 16 MEMbERShIP matters A hearty thanks to you, our members 17 stepping UP Swapping paddles for trail maintenance tools 24 impact GIVING 21 Mountain Workshops working their magic with youth 32 branchING OUT News from The Mountaineers Branches 46 bOOkMARkS New Mountaineers release: The Seven Summits 47 last word Be ready to receive the gifts of the outdoors the Mountaineer uses . DIscoVER THE MOUntaINEERS If you are thinking of joining—or have joined and aren’t sure where to start—why not attend an information meeting? Check the Branching Out section of the magazine (page 32) for times and locations for each of our seven branches. -
Nomination Form International Memory of the World Register
Nomination form International Memory of the World Register title of item being proposed 2014-39 1.0 Summary (max 200 words) Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing captured the world’s imagination in 1953 by conquering Everest, the highest mountain on earth, when everyone before them had failed. In 1953 the Order of Gorkha Dakshina was conferred on him by the King of Nepal. Hillary went on to explore places where no man had been before and dedicated much of his life to improving healthcare and education with and for the Sherpas. His enduring legacy in Nepal earned him the title of Surra Sahib (Big Man). Hillary’s heroic stature continues to grow on the international stage today, with the sixtieth anniversary of the ascent in 2013 attracting worldwide attention. Sir Edmund Hillary, KG,ONZ, KBE (1918-2008), renowned New Zealand mountaineer, explorer, environmentalist and philanthropist, bequeathed his personal archive of documents to Auckland Museum. The Sir Edmund Hillary Archive is a unique and substantial collection of personal papers, photographs, audio visual material and documents collected and largely written by Sir Edmund. Correspondence, diaries, drafts of books, lists of expedition supplies, scrapbooks, lecture notes and original photographs give first-hand account of his adventures and reveal the details and impact of his humanitarian and environmental work in India, Nepal, Antarctica and beyond. The Archive spans the second half of the 20th century through to the early 21st century. 2.0 Nominator 2.1 Name of nominator (person or organization) -
UC Berkeley Working Paper Series
UC Berkeley Working Paper Series Title National Diversity Under Pressure: Group Composition and Expedition Success inHimalayan Mountaineering Permalink https://escholarship.org/uc/item/6vs640p6 Authors Sherman, Eliot L. Chatman, Jennifer A. Publication Date 2013-04-04 eScholarship.org Powered by the California Digital Library University of California National Diversity Under Pressure: Group Composition and Expedition Success in Himalayan Mountaineering Eliot L. Sherman and Jennifer A. Chatman University of California, Berkeley Haas School of Business 4/4/13 1 National Diversity Under Pressure: Group Composition and Expedition Success in Himalayan Mountaineering Abstract Understanding how a task group’s demographic composition influences its effectiveness requires considering situational demands. We explore this insight in a high-pressure situation, Himalayan mountain climbing. We hypothesize that the distribution of members’ nationality within climbing expeditions is a meaningful basis for ingroup categorization, and that national heterogeneity within expeditions is associated with intragroup competition manifested through climbers’ propensity to take more risk to reach the summit. We test this hypothesis using an archival dataset comprised of 2,756 non-commercial Himalayan expeditions undertaken from 1950 to 2010. Our results show that nationally diverse expeditions are more likely to experience a climber injury or death but also that a greater proportion of their group will reach the summit of their target mountain. We also conduct individual level analyses to better understand how relative demography—being part of a more or less heavily represented nation in the expedition— influences climbers’ likelihood of being injured or killed and summiting. We discuss the implications of our findings for group demography research and consider how they might extend to work groups that operate in other types of high-pressure environments. -
Death at Extreme Altitude
Death at Extreme Altitude OSWALDOELZ In October 1988 four Czechoslovak climbers made the first alpine-style ascent of the formidable SW face of Mount Everest, first climbed in 1975 by Chris Bonington's large British expedition. They were equipped with the inner lining of one tent, two sleeping bags, two 40m climbing ropes, four ice axes, two ice hammers, three small cameras, one light video camera, a cooking stove and gas, food for three days and little else. After three and a half days they reached the south summit (8750m) and one climber continued to the summit (8872m). The others began to descend towards the South Col. In the early evening the summiteer rejoined the others at approximately 8300m and radioed that they felt bad and that three persons were nearly blind. They were never heard from again. Americans arriving at the South Col half an hour later could see the entire route to the south summit, but no signs of human activity. Since this area is easy scrambling ground for an experienced climber, the mass disappearance is most likely a consequence of high-altitude cerebral edema which caused the climbers to fall through a cornice or be blown off the ridge. This is just one recent example illustrating the horrifying statistics on the highest peaks of this globe. To date, 246 climbers have made a total of 275 ascents of MountEverest; 102 climbers have died on the slopes ofthis mountain (Elizabeth Hawley, personal communication). This ratio shows no decline in recent years. In the post-monsoon season of 1988, 31 individuals reached the summit of Mount Everest; nine climbers died, seven while attempting the summit without bottled oxygen. -
Expedition Achievements
Pioneering Australian climber Rick White founded Mountain Designs in 1975 with the aim to provide quality gear and equipment to adventures like himself. Rick White on takes a break on the fi rst Australian ascent of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California. MOUNTAIN DESIGNS SPONSORED EXPEDITIONS OF THE SIX HIGHEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH 1. MT EVEREST 8848m 1st Australian ascent 1984 Tim Macartney-Snape & Greg Mortimer The fi rst Australian ascent of Everest in 1984 by Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer, by a new route (White Limbo) up the North Face central couloir, without supplementary oxygen. A climb that is still unrepeated to this day. 2. K2 8611m 1st Australian ascent 1990 Greg Child, and Greg Mortimer Greg Child and Greg Mortimer climbed K2 via the North Ridge, a rarely climbed route, without supplementary oxygen. 3. KANGCHENJUNGA 8598m 1st Australian ascent 1987 Michael Groom & John Coulton Michael Groom after an epic ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1987, which resulted in the loss of all his toes, went on over the next decade to climb the rest of the six highest peaks in the world, without oxygen. 4. LHOTSE 8501m 1st Australian to climb over 8000m 1982 Fred From Lhotse is located at the border of Tibet and Khumbu and is connected to Everest via the South Col. The South Face is one of the steepest in the world, rising 3 kilometres in 2.3 kilometres. 5. MAKALU 8481m High Point reached 7600m 1983 Fred From & Mark Moorhead The fi fth highest mountain in the world, Makalu, is an isolated mountain and is located on the border of Nepal and China. -
Effects of Experience and Commercialisation on Survival in Himalayan Mountaineering: Retrospective Cohort Study OPEN ACCESS
BMJ 2012;344:e3782 doi: 10.1136/bmj.e3782 (Published 13 June 2012) Page 1 of 17 Research RESEARCH Effects of experience and commercialisation on survival in Himalayan mountaineering: retrospective cohort study OPEN ACCESS 1 2 John L Westhoff staff physician , Thomas D Koepsell professor , Christopher T Littell program director of residency in public health and general preventive medicine 1 1Department of Preventive Medicine, Madigan Healthcare System, Tacoma, WA 98431-1100, USA; 2Department of Epidemiology, University of Washington, Seattle, WA Abstract popularity of the sport, make mountaineering mishaps a growing Objectives To determine whether previous Himalayan experience is public health concern for local municipalities and responsible associated with a decreased risk of climbing death, and whether government agencies. mountaineers participating in commercial expeditions differ in their risk Although comparisons across sports are difficult owing to large of death relative to those participating in traditional climbs. differences in time at risk, the per-participant mortality rate for Design Retrospective cohort study. mountaineering in general has been estimated as roughly three Setting times higher than parachuting or hang gliding and 300 times Expeditions in the Nepalese Himalayan peaks, from 1 January 9 1970 to the spring climbing season in 2010. higher than American football. A comparison of participant mortality in England and Wales found that mountaineering was Participants 23 995 non-porters venturing above base camp on 39 -
Hillary Model, Hillary Medal
HILLARY MODEL, HILLARY MEDAL Seth Sicroff n 2015, Dr. Jack D. Ives was awarded the first Lifetime Achievement edition of the Sir Edmund Hillary Moun- tain Legacy Medal (SEHMLM). Both the usual SEHMLM, which has been awarded six times through 2015, and this Ispecial Lifetime Achievement edition are intended to honor the humanitarian legacy of Sir Edmund Hillary and also to encourage its emulation; the difference is that the regular award is intended to give a boost to mid-career workers in mountain development and conservation, while the Lifetime Achieve- ment award is an expression of gratitude in recognition of a body of work that is more or less complete. In this case, Jack Ives has been formally retired since 1996, but continues to con- tribute energetically and substantively in the field of montology, where his impact is unequalled. The question must inevitably arise, however, as to what aspect of Sir Edmund’s achievement is emulated or mirrored in that of Jack Ives. One man was an adventurer, a celebrity, for years universally recognized as the epitome of heroism and unsurpassed physical achievement, who went on to complete dozens of infrastructure projects on behalf of the Sherpas of Nepal. The other is an academic, the preeminent montologist of our time, whose most tangible accomplishments have been his publications and his students. What is the connection between these two careers? In the following pages I briefly recount the origin of the 304 SEHMLM, and review the elements of the Hillary Model of development assistance which the Medal is intended to celebrate and promote. -
Everest: on Top LEVELED BOOK • V of the World a Reading A–Z Level V Leveled Book Word Count: 2,002 Evereston Top of the World
Everest: On Top LEVELED BOOK • V of the World A Reading A–Z Level V Leveled Book Word Count: 2,002 EVERESTOn Top of the World Written by Ned Jensen Visit www.readinga-z.com www.readinga-z.com for thousands of books and materials. Photo Credits: Front cover: © REUTERS/Desmond Broylan; back cover: © Barry Bishop/National Geographic Stock; title page: © Stefan Chow/Aurora Photos/Corbis; page 4: © iStockphoto.com/Sandeep Subba; page 7: © Bobby Model/National Geographic Stock; page 8: © Galen Rowell/Corbis; page 9: (top left): EVEREST © iStockphoto.com/Sinan Kocslan; page 9 (top right): © iStockphoto.com/Yurly Chaban; page 9: (center left, bottom right): © iStockphoto.com/Marek Cech; On Top of the World page 9 (center right): © iStockphoto.com; page 9 (bottom left): © UKrphoto/ Dreamstime.com; page 10: © iStockphoto.com/Davor Lovincic; page 11: © Dave Watson/AP Images; page 12: © NGS Maps/National Geographic Stock; page 13: © Grant Dixon/Minden Pictures/National Geographic Stock; page 14: © James P Blair/National Geographic Stock; page 15: © Gurinder Osan/AP Images; page 17: © REUTERS/Norgay Archive; page 18: © REUTERS; page 20 (background): © iStockphoto.com/Bartosz Hadyniak; page 20 (main): © REUTERS/Gopal Chitrakar; page 21 (background): © iStockphoto.com/Shawn Roberts; page 23: © John Van Hasselt/Corbis; page 24: © Prakash Mathema/AFP/Getty Images Front cover: The peak of Mount Everest shrouded in mist Title page: Climbers crossing the difficult Hillary Step at the peak of Mount Everest Back cover: Climber approaching the summit of Mount Everest Everest: On Top of the World Level V Leveled Book © Learning A–Z Correlation ISBN 1-59827-702-2 LEVEL V Written by Ned Jensen Written by Ned Jensen Fountas & Pinnell R All rights reserved.