#657 24 - 30 May 2013 20 pages Rs 50

2009 GLACIERWORKS 1921 Changing climate for climbing ay 29 marks the 60th anniversary of the fi rst ascent of Mt MEverest by and in 1953. Much has changed on the world’s highest mountain since then, climbing has become commercialised taking away much of the risk and adventure that early explorers faced. But expeditions bring jobs and income to thousands of Nepalis and royalties for Everest alone earn the government Rs 250 million a year. As the Earth warms, Everest is melting, making climbing more diffi cult. Nepali Times brings you a special coverage of Everest 60:

THE OTHER TENZING PAGE 3 PROFILE OF ELIZABETH HAWLEY PAGE 4 MAJOR EO WHEELER /ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY INTERVIEW WITH DAVID BREASHEARS PAGE 6 ICE TO WATER: The Kyetrak Glacier on the northern slope of Mt in 1921 and again in 2009. Global warming is causing the Himalayan permafrost to melt at an accelerated rate. CLIMBING IN CLIMATE CHANGE PAGE 7 Many glacier snouts now have lakes in them, as seen on Kyetrak, posing a threat of fl ashfl oods EVEREST TIMELINE PAGE 10-11 downstream. While records are being set and broken on climbing Everest this season, the real record is the record melting on the fl anks of the world’s highest mountain. BOOK REVIEW: PENGUINS ON EVEREST PAGE 13 2 EDITORIAL 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 UNFINISHED BUSINESS

epal’s 10 year conflict left 17,000 dead. It us (page 16-17) he still fervently believes he is a tragic irony of wars that the relatives was doing the right thing by taking up arms Nof the dead are the lucky ones. The tens to liberate an oppressed and rejected people. of thousands gravely wounded and physically Jirel has also written a book about his handicapped can’t get jobs and have become childhood, how he was attracted to the a burden for their families. For the relatives of revolution, the disillusionment in the the 1,400 who were disappeared by both sides cantonment, and his determination to set in the war, the conflict never ended. In the things right without the use of violence. absence of closure, their indefinite bereavement “There is still lots to do for the upliftment of drags on, they relive their grief every moment my people,” he says. Also in this issue we of every day. Many of the disappeared were the carry heart-breaking stories of parents who main earners of now destitute families. Even lost their sons and daughters in the conflict. those who got meager compensation from the For them, time does not heal. state have spent it all on food and medicines. It doesn’t seem to matter which side did It is a rule of thumb that violent conflicts the killing or the disappearance, a mother’s leave a legacy of aggression and hostility in pain is the same. The only difference is that society for three times longer than the war some of the victims were fighting for a cause, lasts. A whole new generation of Nepalis has to while most of the others were caught up in a replace today’s adults for the residual violence war being waged in their name and in which to completely subside and the loose ends to be they wanted no part. tied up. It should be the state’s role to ease the As health worker Radha Poudel, who has pain of the families of victims, to help heal. written a book about her experience of the battle But the Nepali state today is composed of of Jumla in 2002 tells us (on page 16-17): “We are still in components of the former enemies and both want to conflict, it’s just that guns are not being used. As long as Wars leave a mess, it’s up to forget their atrocities and move on. Ask the families of people are dying of hunger the war is still going on. The the warriors to clean it up the victims and they are realistic enough to know that underlying reasons for the conflict are still there.” under the present circumstances, justice is a mirage. Poudel saw it all firsthand, but it is close to the view of when they stop fighting But they want the truth about what happened to Norwegian peace theorist Johan Galtung who said earlier their relatives, why they were killed, who killed them this year that was in a state of ‘negative peace’. the revolutionaries who misguidedly sought to address and why. The state refuses meaningful reconciliation Nepalis struggle when it comes to positive non-violence them through armed struggle have abandoned the cause. and is afraid of the truth. It is up to human rights through nation building and addressing the precursors In an interview, a Maoist guerrilla who joined the groups, civil society activists, and the media to to violence, he said. The injustice and exclusion that movement when he was 13 says he was driven by an document as much as possible until the day of drove this country to war have not been addressed and idealistic goal of equality and justice. Navin Jirel tells atonement finally comes.

ON THE WEB www.nepalitimes.com OF WATCHING THE WATCHDOG So far, Khil Raj Regmi’s presence OUT ON A LIMB also started cultivating the broom Your editorial manifests a total as the head of the executive body It is sad to know how personal greed grass (‘amrisho’). Thanks for bringing THE ignorance about the rules and would remind everyone of how destroys common cause of generosity for Jhirubas in the news. You could have O WEEK practices of governance, constitutional incompetent, corrupt, and criminal the needy and destitute people in Nepal also mentioned Redd Barna (the provisions of the nation and the Nepali state is and how impotent (‘Out on a limb’, Tsering Dolker and What are two things you cannot live Norwegian Save the Children Fund), without ? international practice in this regard the government can be. Juanita Malagon, #656). These selfi sh which has been working int he region (‘Watching the watchdog’, Editorial, Anonymous and narrow minded people behind will for more than a decade to improve #656). The CIAA is empowered to suffer consequences in the future. education, preventive health, and Samir Pradhan: Petroleum and soap. discipline public offi cials for wrong From outside Nepal, it looks like Tashi Lama economy. Sangam Silpakar: Mobile phone and internet. there is little hope in the near future. Ingrid Chiron: Books and eggs. deeds. As Public Service Commission Sagar Panthi Avineet Malla: Love and hate. or other relevant Constitutional bodies Parties are corrupt to the brim. How After reading about how a fake Tej Rai: Alcohol and Smart Phone. have to approve the disciplinary much corrupt the judiciary is, does doctor scammed donors and the people Gerda Anita Weise: Good friends and cats. actions, this can, to a certain extent, not need to be explained. Regmi of Humla in last week’s Nepali Times, If religion peddling churches have Sigmund Stengel: Faith, family and friends. check CIAA’s arbitrary and vengeful is a part of both now. So what can here is another case of greedy Nepali made it to Jhirubas already, don’t Sudan Rai: A good laugh and a long sleep. Dhanu Shrestha: Friends and work. actions, but not fully. The reason is that we expect? The most amazing but social workers not knowing what is good expect the lively indegenious culture CIAA can still publish this in its annual disturbing scenario is that donors for their own country and people. Hope to survive much longer. Conversion report and damage the reputation of and civil society leaders have proved these crooks rot in hell. and homogenisation has begun, @saggy_dg: My phone. the concerned offi cial. In case of false to be not much different. Karki has Namche sadly. @DhanuShrestha: Information and mobile. a virtue of being a visible symbol of Anonymous @himabista: Laughter and Nepali coffee. charges of corruption, the Court can @sigdelsantosh: Freedom of expression and fi nally acquit the convict, but it takes past and present; that’s all. This is such a sad story. As a Nepali CONTEMPT OF THE REPUBLIC freedom of expression. a long time during which the damage Kamal Kishor I feel so ashamed. I believe all the Nepali @nepalicana: Clothes and food. to the person will have been done in managers saw was money fl owing from How could the timid politicians of @lenatara: Yoga and books. terms of fi nancial loss, mental and outside and they want to control it all by Nepal make their own decisions without leaning on neighbouring This week’s Question of the week: emotional distress, loss of reputation themselves to feed their greed. How much time do you spend on and career-wise losses. There is no AJ countries? (‘In contempt of the republic’, Anurag Acharya, #656). Facebook every day? provision for compensation for wrong Go to www.facebook.com/nepalitimes or disciplinary actions and/or witch- BROOM BRINGS BOOM These morons will throw their hands www.twitter.com/nepalitimes to respond. hunting. This is why I like reading NT. Unlike other in the air and say ‘we give up’. Jainendra Jeevan media which are full of negative news it Gopes goes in search of something positive That is the problem with Nepali If we were a corruption and from places few go to. (‘Broom criminality free society, the brings boom’, Naresh Newar, public. They will not throw the whole Weekly Internet Poll #657 lot out of power. Just wait and watch nomination of a person like #656). I was born and brought Q. Do you think the Nepali cricket team will qualify for Lokman Singh Karki as the head up in the neighbouring village of if the elections ever takes place. World Cup 2015? SB Bisht of CIAA would have drawn a huge Bakamalang in Palpa and have travelled Total votes: 1,123 outcry and it’d be understandable to Jhirubas. Back then, in the 1980s MDGS and laudable according to the nature this place was at least a day’s walk from of such a society. However, in a the nearest road. Most of the houses That is another bogus epithet so state like Nepal whose voracious were round with thatched roofs, there NGOs can use to raise more money appetite for pork barrel politics were villages where people spoke to buy fancy cars and have meetings has always embraced the cunning only Magar and did not understand in fancy hotels all in name of the poor presence of corrupts, criminals, Nepali. The nearest high school was (‘MDG The next 1000 days’, Joe and incompetents, any protests in Sahalkot and most residents were Hitchon, #656) Sagar Ruptse Weekly Internet Poll # 658. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com by few people will remain hullabaloo. slash and burn farmers. Now they have Q. How do you assess Khil Raj Regmi's two months in office?

DIWAKAR CHETTRI

Publisher and Editor: Kunda Dixit Published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd | Patan Dhoka, Lalitpur | GPO Box 7251 Kathmandu | Desk Editor: Trishna Rana | Design: Kiran Maharjan [email protected] | www.nepalitimes.com | www.himalmedia.com | Tel: 01-5005601-08 Fax: +977-1-5005518 Director of Corporate Events: Anup Prakash | Marketing: Arjun Karki, Surendra Sharma [email protected] | Advertorial/features: Ram Krishna Banjara | Subscription: Santosh Aryal [email protected] Nepali Times on Facebook Printed at Jagadamba Press | 01-5250017-19 | www.jagadambapr.com Follow @nepalitimes on Twitter 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 NATION 3 The other Tenzing rom Khumbu to London, celebrations this week to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the fi rst ascent of Everest on 29 May 1953 focus on the two Fsummiteers, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, belying the fact that the climb was truly a team effort. While Tenzing was the lead climbing Sherpa, an often forgotten fi gure is the sirdar, the foreman of the expedition. “Has my grandfather been completely forgotten?” asks Tashi Sherpa of as he sorts through a bag of old photographs. As the sirdar of the 1953 Everest Expedition, Tashi’s grandfather, Dawa Tenzing of Khumjung, managed the supplies, porters, and logistics. He ensured the safe transport of over seven tons of supplies and equipment from Kathmandu to Khumbu, a journey that took nearly three weeks. The porters were from the spectrum of ethnic peoples of eastern Nepal.

Dawa Tenzing (also known as Da Tenzing) was over 40 in 1953 and was already a veteran of several Himalayan expeditions. Having gone from Khumbu to Darjeeling in search of work as a young man, Da Tenzing had memories of the disappearance of Mallory and Irvine on the north side of Everest in 1924. Between 1952–63 Da Tenzing was on several expeditions: reaching the South Col twice in both 1952 and 1953. He was sirdar of the 1955 expedition and again went twice to the South Col with the American expedition of 1963. In the afterglow of the 1953 expedition, the British Alpine Club had made Da Tenzin an honorary lifetime member and despite his remote address all alpine club mail duly arrived at Tengboche. In a dusty old cardboard box he had kept brochures for anything from crampons to electric kettles and letters and photographs from the previous generation of climbers, including those of John Hunt, with whom he had managed the 1953 expedition, and others from George Lowe to . Da Tenzing spent his last years hobbling around Tengboche monastery as best he could with complete Buddhist devotion. According to the Royal Geographic Society, he had ‘earned respect for his character and his performance as climber and sirdar, and affection for his wicked sense of humour’. Da Tenzing died in 1985. Frances Klatzel in Tengboche

nepalitimes.com Gallery of Da Tenzing's memorabilia 4 NATION 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657

“I don’t think the first ascent changed Khumbu,” says Hawley, “what changed Khumbu was Sir Edmund Hillary.” The Himalayan record-keeper For someone who has followed the annals of so closely, Hawley wasn’t surprised with the news At 90, Liz Hawley is still chronicling climbing expeditions, a about the brawl between Sherpas and work she started with the first American Everest expedition in 1963 western climbers on Everest last month. “It was a result of badly bruised egos,” she says, “the Sherpas felt that they TSERING DOLKER GURUNG seasons are her busiest period. From had lost a lot of face after seeing these a large network of contacts at trekking alpinists who have never used fixed agencies, airlines, hotels, and the Ministry, ropes or oxygen in their lives…that got he joke in climbing circles is that she keeps track of who’s coming and them very angry and they resorted to if Liz Hawley hasn’t certified that when. The interviews are in hotel gardens extreme actions.” Tyou climbed a Himalayan peak and lobbies and are usually so gruelling The big change in mountaineering then you haven’t climbed it. Actually, it’s that mountaineers call them ‘The Second has been due to commercialisation in not a joke. Summit’ because of Miss Hawley’s intense the early 1990s, she says, it gave an easy At 90, the top chronicler of Himalayan grilling. The information then goes into pass to those who lacked the skills and mountaineering has such a formidable digital files of the Himalayan Database, a passion to climb mountains. “People reputation in mountaineering circles, company she started with a friend. who had never climbed a mountain that she is admired and feared in equal As the Kathmandu-based before started buying slots on Everest measure. Her meticulous archives of correspondent for , she also had expeditions because it would look good climbing information from the last 55 to follow the politics. Most western on their cv,” she says. years and her search-engine brain makes diplomats relied on her insider knowledge Asked if climate change is her verdict on a climb final. of goings-on in the royal palace and changing climbing, Hawley gives a Hawley who has documented nearly government. characteristically sarcastic reply: “Maybe, every expedition that has ever climbed in Hawley was on the same plane as but it could also be that the climbers are the Nepal Himalaya since the 1960s, has BP Koirala when he was returning from not as good as they used to be.” never set foot on a mountain herself. Bangkok after treatment. “I spent the entire A second edition of the book on Liz “It is crowded up there,” Hawley said flight writing the story for Reuters and Hawley, I’ll Call You In Kathmandu, during an interview this week, “I prefer kept checking with BP and Girija to make and a documentary called Keeper of the comforts of my home, sleeping in sure I got all my facts correct,” she recalls, the Mountains, are being released next my bed, eating hot food at my table, and “later that evening, I got a call saying BP month. Asked if she would ever go back driving around in my car.” BIKRAM RAI had died. It was a sad moment, because he to the , Hawley replies And home for the past 55 years has was one of the few remarkable men that matter-of-factly: “I am still here 50 been a bungalow in a quiet compound Life and Reuters. Since most of the news we have in Nepal and one political leader blooming years later. I will retire when tucked away inside the hustle and from Nepal in those days was about who stuck to his beliefs.” The story made I die and I don’t have any unfulfilled bustle of Dillibajar. Hawley used to mountaineering, she started interviewing it to the front page of the New York Times. wishes. I am happy as I am.” work for Fortune magazine in New climbers before and after expeditions. When she’s not busy driving around www.himalayandatabase.com York as a researcher and quit one day Those records are now a treasure trove town in her trusted sky-blue VW Beetle to travel around the world. When she of mountaineering history. Miss Hawley, that she bought from Prince Basundhara Follow @Everest1953 for live reenactment of the got to Kathmandu in 1959, it was still as the climbing fraternity knows her, in 1965, Hawley is busy in her role as 1953 ascent of Everest on Twitter an unpolluted green valley with terrace continues to interview, record, and the chair of the Himalayan Trust-Nepal farms and she never left. document expeditions the same way she which was set up by Edmund Hillary in nepalitimes.com In 1963, she got to report on the first did six decades ago. 1960 to build schools and hospitals in the US expedition to Mt Everest for Time- The spring and autumn climbing Khumbu. Watch trailer of Keeper of the Mountains 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 INTERNATIONAL 5

BIZ BRIEFS The Kiwi connection Spreading wings In a major boost to travel and tourism, Turkish Airlines announced this tragically in the Ghunsa week that it will be linking Kathmandu directly to Istanbul and beyond from helicopter crash in 2008 that September. This will be the only direct fl ight to Europe from Kathmandu and marks also killed 24 other officials and the return of major international carriers to Nepal after Lufthansa, Austrian senior environmentalists. Airlines, and Transavia discontinued services A fund set up in Mingma’s in the past 15 years. name sends two Nepali students “This is good for Nepal’s connectivity to every year to Lincoln to study the world because Turkish Airlines can now conservation science. Chandra link Kathmandu with 250 destinations worldwide from our Istanbul hub,” said Gurung the founder of the regional General Manager, Adnan Aykac. “We will be the brand ambassador Annapurna Area Conservation for Nepal’s tourism.” Project who also died at Turkish will start with four fl ights a week with departures from Kathmandu Ghunsa, was another of Devlin’s at 8:45 AM on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays with the widebody Airbus close friends and colleagues. 330-300 aircraft. The fl ight will arrive in Istanbul at 1:40pm and passengers can connect to fl ights to North America, Europe, and Africa. “As the only Devlin recently visited European carrier operating to and from Kathmandu, we will have the his beloved Nepal and advantage with the added benefi ts of our huge network,” said Adnan Aykac. was welcomed warmly by Lincoln alumni at the Garden Restaurant in Boudha Vroom vroom (pic, left) run by another of his Ncell, one of the fastest growing mobile students, Ang Phuri Sherpa. service providers of the country, provided fter Edmund Hillary and social scientists. The Secretary of the Ministry security and logistics equipment to Nepal and Tenzing Norgay Lincoln’s cooperation of Forests, Krishna C Paudel Police. Ncell CEO Osman Turan handed climbed Mt Everest with Nepal started after the and also a Lincoln graduate, over 20 motorcycles and safety helmets to A Nepal Police along with 11 computer sets and 11,000 traffi c bands to Traffi c in 1953, Tenzing became first ascent of Mt Everest 60 presented Devlin with an Police. The support aims to strengthen Nepal Police’s capacity to deliver appreciation plaque. a household word in New years ago and is still going better services, says Ncell. Zealand and Hillary became strong thanks to teachers Said Devlin: “Some of our a household word in Nepal. like Devlin. Hundreds of his Nepali graduates in senior Hillary is well known for his Nepali students respect Devlin positions in protected area Sleek ride support for the development and reverently call him ‘Pat and tourism management have Tata Motors has launched its new of Khumbu with schools and Guru’. His students since already retired and others are hatchback Tata Vista D90 in Nepal. hospitals for the Sherpa people. 1970 include conservationists due to follow … so Lincoln’s Powered by Quadrajet diesel engine, A person less well known Mingma Norbu, Ang Rita, next challenge will be to with Variable Geometry Turbocharger in Nepal and New Zealand, Lakpa Norbu, Ramprit Yadav, see how their expertise can (VGT) technology, touch screen but whose contribution to Hum Gurung, Shailendra be channeled to in-country multimedia system, and advanced safety features. the conservation movement Thakali, and dozens of others. training.” in Nepal is perhaps even Many of them went on to be Kunda Dixit Hello Amsterdam greater, is Pat Devlin, professor involved in the establishment Etihad Airways, national airline of United Arab at Lincoln University near of the Sagarmatha National nepalitimes.com Emirates has started daily fl ights to Amsterdam Christchurch which has Park in 1976, and the eco- from Abu Dhabi and has commenced partnership with the Dutch national See blog: trained Nepal’s best known tourism model that helped carrier KLM. www.nepalitimes.com/blogs/kundadixit environmentalists, biologists, sustain it. Minga Norbu died 6 NATION 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657

GEORGE MALLORY GLACIERWORKS What will the Himalaya look like in 100 years?

the actual magnitude of what place under our own feet. For YESTERDAY AND TOMORROW: George Mallory’s iconic picture of the Five-time Everest summiteer and climate change was doing to instance, the at the mountains and I wanted to 8760m and the traverse to it Rongbuk Glacier on the north side of American filmmaker David Breashears Everest taken in 1921 (left) and David helps raise awareness about the start a dialogue about what is from the South Summit were happening in Himalaya. almost entirely snow climbs Breashears’ photograph taken in 2007 consequences of climate change in showing how much the glacier has the Himalaya using science, art, and I decided to use match with very little exposed rock. shrunk. There has been even more adventure through his organisation, photography to bear witness Now our crampons scrape and melting in the last six years. GlacierWorks. Nepali Times caught to the rapid warming of the scratch across hundreds of up with him recently to talk about Himalaya and the retreat of its feet of exposed rock and the the latest findings on how fast the glaciers. We have a collection snow arête that Hillary climbed variations in precipitation and mountains are melting. of compelling and fascinating no longer exists. The route is different weather patterns. For images, which come primarily entirely on rock and many feet instance mountains in north- from the extensive archive of to the left. We’re seeing the same west Karakoram like receive the Royal Geographical Society changes as the glacier melts at most of their snow in the winter Nepali Times: How did stony valley. in London. Using match 6500m: the garbage disposed from a westerly flow. That snow GlacierWorks start? I sat in the exact spot where photography, people can look in the glacier’s crevasses over much more readily compacts David Breashears: When I Mallory had snapped this iconic at images from the past and 60 years is now being exposed into ice than regions in the went to Everest as part of a picture and was stunned by the present and ask questions: because of glacial melt. eastern Himalaya, near Everest documentary for the PBS series changes I saw in the landscape. what happened, what led to and Kangchenjunga, which Frontline in 2007, I took along The wide river of ice had these changes, and what will Is the Himalaya melting faster receive their snowfall in the a black-and-white photograph retreated more than half a mile, the future of the mountains than we originally thought? summer during the monsoon taken in 1921 by George leaving a field of separated ice look like? I’m not a scientist, but from and when it’s much warmer. Mallory. It showed the ice- pinnacles melting into the rocky my personal observation the However, there needs to be encrusted north face of Everest ground. In the distance, the ice How has climbing Everest changes in the landscape in much more ground research and below it the great river of streams on Everest’s flank also changed over the years? some regions of the greater to better understand these ice known as the Main Rongbuk had shrunk, exposing more Those of us who have climbed Himalaya are quite dramatic transformations and what they Glacier, flowing in a sweeping, of the mountain’s dark face. Everest for the past 33 years and in others they are harder mean for the future. S-shaped curve down a broad, This was when I understood have seen the changes taking to discern. This has to do with What can Nepalis do? Nepal has an extremely tiny carbon footprint and contributes very little to greenhouse gases. However, there is much that can be done in terms of adaptation and creating policies and education initiatives to deal with the anticipated impacts of warming in this region.

What will your famous panorama photograph of Everest (see page 10-11) look like if it is shot 100 years from now from the same spot? As you know earlier this month we surpassed 400 ppm of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. If this global trend continues, there will be considerably less snow and ice on the mountain and the glacier will be in a much less stable state. But the truth is that we don’t know what it will look like in 100 years. We hope others will return to this spot, just like Norman Dyhrenfurth and I have done, and continue building a photographic record so that we will be better able to predict what the glacier will look like in the future. www.glacierworks.org

nepalitimes.com Watch trailer of Everest IMAX The good news is that the pre-monsoon has been unusually active, bringing in moisture that rises up the Himalaya to condense and fall as precipitation. On Monday there was 55 mm of rain in Kathmandu Valley in a six-hour period. The bad news is that in years when the pre-monsoon has been unusually active, the real monsoon has been weak. KATHMANDU Indian meteorologists predict based on computer simulations that the monsoon will arrive on schedule on June 1 on the FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY Kerala coast. Let’s hope they’re right. 26° 25° 26° Kathmandu will see squalls and storms #657 24 - 30 May 2013 into the weekend. 18° 18° 18°

As Nepal marks the 60th anniversary of Everest have lost 13 per cent of their ice in the first ascent of Mt Everest, and making the last 50 years. it to the summit becomes almost routine, Historically, during the age of first Climbing in the thrill of exploration has turned to worry ascents in the 1950s, climbers preferred about what we are doing to the planet. As the spring on eight thousanders because with the Arctic Ice Cap and Greenland, the the temperatures were higher and there Third Pole (as the Himalaya is known) is would be less wind. But as climbing climate change also melting dramatically. gear and clothing improved, many This year’s spring climbing season mountaineers switched to the less- Global warming is melting Mt Everest, on Mt Everest has witnessed even more crowded autumn season despite the jet making mountaineering more dangerous records being broken. The first Saudi and stream’s hurricane-force winds on the Pakistani woman to get to the top, the first summit. Now, because of the shift in Arab Sheikh on the summit, the first person monsoonal patterns it seems climbers BHRIKUTI RAI “The Hillary Step and the traverse to it with no hands to climb, the first Nepali prefer spring again. from the South Summit were almost entirely actress on top, and even the highest ever who retired from climbing snow climbs with very little exposed rock,” brawl in the world. in 2011 is worried about climbers who hen Edmund Hillary and Tenzing says David Breashears, American climber However, the real record is the record will now have to make the trip to the top Norgay climbed Mt Everest 60 and filmmaker. “Now our crampons scrape melting on the flanks of the world’s highest amid unstable weather along a rocky path. Wyears ago, the summit ridge used and scratch across hundreds of feet of mountain. By all accounts, the melting ice “There are more frequent avalanches, to be almost entirely snow and ice. The exposed rock and the snow arête that Hillary has exposed rock outcrops making climbs more crevasses and exposed rock faces Khumbu Glacier used to be much longer climbed no longer exists.” more dangerous. It has also made it more where there used to be snowfields,” says and thicker than it is today. Breashears, who has been documenting scary as the corpses of dead climbers Apa. The vertical section on the South-east the effect of climate change on the emerge from the thawing ice. In the spring The accelerated melting in the Ridge just below the summit called the Himalayan permafrost through before and of 2011, Apa Sherpa set foot on the summit mountain is exposing all kinds of Hillary Step (pictured) represented the after pictures, says he has seen changes even of Mt Everest for the 21st time breaking his mountaineering debris: oxygen tanks, last obstacle for mountaineers before during the five times that he has climbed own record. He says: “In the years from my clothing, tents and even human remains. they got to the top. But as the Earth Everest. (see interview, overleaf). first ascent in 1990, I have seen the snow Asian Trekking in Kathmandu began warmed up due to climate change in the cover melting. Where there used to be ice initiatives in 2008 to deal with the last 60 years, the Hillary Step today is slopes, there is now only rocks.” trash. Ang Tshering Sherpa, chairman mostly crumbling rock. Earlier this month, carbon dioxide of Asian Trekking who made it only concentration in the atmosphere hit the till 8,000 meter in 1977 says, “Despite highest level in 4 million years at 400 parts better equipment and technically sound per million (ppm). A new study has shown climbers, the unpredictable weather now that the glaciers that come down from Mt changes the game at the top.” Although the ice in the Himalaya is a source of major rivers in Asia and about 1.5 billion people depend on it, there have been very few comprehensive studies carried to understand how climate change will ultimately affect the water stored in the mountains as ice.

nepalitimes.com The State of the Himalaya, 592 Is climate change changing climbing, 268 Climbing to keep the Himalaya alive, 466

WOODLAND BLOG 8 When Art Evolves, a presentation on the visible and invisible EVENTS transformation of modern art in DINING Nepal by curator/artist/writer Saroj Bajracharya. 26 May, 4.30pm, Park Alice restaurant, step in for Gallery, Pulchok, (01)5522307, Sign scrumptious Thakali, Chinese, up at [email protected] Continental and Japanese cuisine. Gairidhara, (01)4429207 The British School and Circus Kathmandu, a photo exhibition of Boudha Stupa Restaurant and projects by students. Runs till Café, bide your time in the free wi-fi 31 May, Image Ark Gallery, Kulimha zone as you enjoy wood fi red pizzas, tole, Patan, (01)5006665 home-made pastas and Tibetan gyakok, Boudha, 9841484408 LAZY GRINGO, fail-safe Mexican Italian Food and Film Festival, restaurant. The lemonade with refi lls watch famous Italian movies while is what won us over, but the food is feasting on authentic Italian food. mighty fi ne. Jawalakhel, (01)2210527 Rs 950, Runs till 28 May, 6 pm onwards, Black Pepper Cafe and Pub, Jhamsikhel, Patan

Nepal in Pictures, showcase your photography skills in this nation- wide photo competition organised BUDDHA JAYANTI, celebrate the anniversary of the enlightened one, visit by Photo Journalist Club Nepal and Swoyambhu, Boudha or the numerous monasteries around town to off er your get a chance to win cash prizes. CAFE CHEENO, comfortable and prayers for peace or head down to Bhaktapur Durbar Square in the evening for a Deadline 15 June, 9851056865, elegant, Cafe Cheeno is the perfect deepawali program. 25 May www.pjclub.com.np place to have a cup of coff ee and chat with friends. Patan Dhoka Sequential Dissonance, an Strobist Photography workshop, Regional fair, for a glimpse at the exhibition of paintings by Mekha THE YELLOW HOUSE, enjoy take out your DSLRs and explore the culture of mid and far western Bahadur Limbu Subba. Runs till sumptuous breakfast prepared with studio world with Ganga Sagar Rai. regions of Nepal. There are delicacies 30 May, Siddhartha Art Gallery, organically source ingredients and Rs 5000, 28 to 31 May, 7 to 9.30am, to be savored and photos and Babarmahal Revisited. the freshest bread this side of town. Folio Magazine - Studio, Dhalko, documentaries to be enjoyed. 24 to Sanepa, (01)5522078 (01)4244348 26 May, Kathmandu Cash your writing, a short story competition on the changing faces Writing Nepal, a short story of social interaction in the age of competition by La.Lit Magazine, social media. Deadline 31 May, here’s your opportunity to get Himal SouthAsian, himalmag.com/ DEGAA RESTO LOUNGE, for published and win cash prizes. blogs/blog/2013/03/29/short-story- mouth watering Newari and Indian Deadline 25 May, LA.Lit. www. competition/ cuisine. Kumaripati, (01)5008679 lalitmag.com Little Einsteins, sixty diff erent Dhokaima Cafe, exquisite ambience, 8th Israeli Film Festival, watch six science projects from sixty diff erent friendly service, cozy bar, place to beautiful Israeli fi lms about youth schools. 30 May to 1 June, Bhrikuti see and be seen at. Patan Dhoka, Yala SAWASDEE, enjoy all things and relationship between children Mandap Exhibition hall, Kathmandu Maya Kendra, 5522113 MIKE’S BREAKFAST, huge Thai from food to performances and parents. Collect your free passes breakfasts and an endless supply of to products at the Thai festival. from the Embassy of Israel or Russian Free hit, watch the Indian Cafe Hessed, for those with a sweet coff ee amidst a lush garden setting Free entrance, 25 May, 11am to Culture Centre, Runs till 24 May, 1pm Premier League every day. 8pm, tooth, off ers a delicious range of characterise this cafe, popular among 4pm, Garden. Himalaya Hotel, onwards, The Russian Culture Centre, Bagaicha Restaurant, Jawalakhel, cupcakes and doughnuts, order a tourists and locals alike. Naxal, Kupondol,(01)5523900 Kamalpokhari, (01)4411811/4413419 (01)5548148 drink for free wi-fi . Jhamsikhel (01)4424303 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 9 MUSIC EVEREST EVENTS EVEREST TRIVIA Are you an Everest afi cionado? Nepali Times is testing your knowledge of the highest mountain in the world on the occasion of the 60th anniversary this week of the fi rst ascent EVEREST CONFERENCE, May of Mt Everest. The fi rst participant who gets most of the 10 26, Khumjung correct answers will win a six month subscription of Nepali Times and a red NT cap.Log on to https://www.facebook.com/ nepalitimes?fref=ts to enter the contest. HERITAGE MARATHON, from Kathmandu Durbar Send your answers to [email protected] Square to Patan Durbar Square in association with Journalist Association for Tourism, May 28, Nepal REMINISCING BOB DYLAN, celebrate the 72nd birthday of the MEDAL CEREMONY, an event legendary singer with a musical to confer diamond jubilee medals journey. Rs 1599, 24 May, 7.30 to TOUR DE LUMBINI, pedal for peace, celebrate the birthday of Lord to 40 record holding Everest 9.30pm, Hotel Summit, Kupondole, summiteers May 29, Narayanhiti (01)5521810 Buddha on your bike as you pedal from Kathmandu to Lumbini. 23 to Palace Museum FOLIO.MUSIC.SESSION, bang 25 May, https://www.facebook.com/ events/183141221827605/ GEOGRAPHICAL, a special your head to the live music parade by issue to be launched by Royal Visan N the Groovers. 31 May, 6pm, Geographical Society. Peri Peri Restaurant, Jhamsikhel CIVIC FELICITATION, What the funk, we r soul’d out, procession from Nepal Tourism dance to the beats of this reggae Board to Basantapur Durbar band, every Tuesday, 7.30 pm onwards, square with participation of family Rs 250, Moksh, Jhamsikhel members of Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary followed Live at Cafe 32, live music and by a felicitation ceremony for delicious food every Friday. 6pm THE VAST UNKNOWN, an prominent civil society leaders. onwards, Cafe 32, Battisputali, 29 May, 7 to 10am, Nepal Tourism (01)4244231 extraordinary tale of men and mountains- America’s fi rst ascent of Board and Basantapur Mt. Everest, an illustrated program with Broughton Coburn. Rs 500, EXHIBITION, photo and 26 May, 6pm, Indigo Gallery, Naxal, philatelic exhibition on Mt Everest. GETAWAYS (01)4413580 27 May, Nepal Tourism Board

Glacier Hotel, a lovely place to stay complete with a waterfront terrace, free wi-fi , children’s playground, Everest Marathon and probably the best spa in town. Gaurighat, lakeside, Pokhara, he globally acclaimed (61)463722 Thighest marathon- Tenzing- Hillary Everest marathon is DHULIKHEL MOUNTAIN back with its 11th edition. RESORT, announces summer And this time around it has bonanza off er. Stay at this lovely gotten not only bigger but establishment for a discounted rate. more extreme. The 42.195 Dhulikhel, (01)4420774/4420776, km marathon starts from the [email protected] Everest Base Camp (5364m) and fi nishes at Namche Bazaar Shivapuri Cottage,escape the hustle (3446m). Introduced this and bustle of Kathmandu and enjoy year, the 60 km ultra marathon begins from Upper Pyangboche (4,010 m) and peace, tranquility, good food, and concludes at Namche bazaar. Athletes from 17 countries will participate in an fresh air. Rs 3,500 per person per night open marathon (men/women) and there will be a separate race for foreigners— inclusive of dinner and breakfast. open half marathon. Budhanilkantha, 9841371927 The organisers are also launching an Eco Expedition concept, called ECCR (Everest Climb, Clean & Run). The campaign will be led by Indian Expedition Last Resort, canyoning, hiking, Team under the leadership of veteran Indian mountaineer Somit Joshi. rock climbing, rafting, mountain biking, bungee jumping – test your The winner and runner-up will be awarded with cash prize of Rs 100,000 and limits at the Last Resort. Bhotekosi, 75,000 respectively. Sindhupalchok, (01)4700525/1247 Date: 29 May 10 1953 1960 1961 1964 1966 1975 Edmund Hillary and Tenzing First ascent from the Edmund Hillary founded The Everest region got a Khunde Hospital was Hillary's daughters and wife Norgay climbed Everest on North-face by a Chinese Khumjung school, the first boost when Edmund Hillary established. The hospital killed in a plane crash in 29 May, 1953. They reached expedition. The route one in the Khumbu region. converted potato fields near built by Edmund Hillary’s Kathmandu. They were on the summit after a gruelling was first made famous by Hillary's Himalayan Trust a small village called Lukla Himalyan Trust with their way to Phaplu where climb up the South-east George Mallory and Andrew built dozens of schools and into the famous airstrip assistance from the New Hillary was helping build a ridge. They were part of the Irvin in 1924 who were last health posts. with its inclined runway. Zealand government is school. ninth British expedition to seen at around 8300 metres It was renamed Tenzing- still the only hospital that Everest, led by John Hunt. on the mountain. Hillary airport in 2008. operates all year round in Khumbu.

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1993 1996 1996 2001 2003 2003 Pasang Lhamu Sherpa The deadliest single year Tenzing's son, Jamling Sixteen-year-old Temba Jamling and Peter Hillary, First Tenzing Hillary Everest became the first Nepali in Everest history.Fifteen Tenzing Norgay, followed Tsheri Sherpa became the climbed Everest for the Marathon. It starts from woman to reach the top of people died trying to reach in his father's footsteps youngest climber ever second time. The sons Everest Base Camp (5364m) Everest. This was her fourth the summit in a storm. It and climbed Everest. to scale the summit. The of Tenzing Norgay and and finishes at Namche attempt but she died while also became the subject of Norgay went on to write record was later broken by Edmund Hillary climbed the Bazaar (3446m). The descending. the best-selling book Into Touching My Father's Soul, thirteen -year- old Jordan summit to commemorate measured distance of the Thin Air by John Krakauer, a book documenting his Romero when he scaled the 50th anniversary of the course is 42.195 km over one of the climbers who experiences on the summit Everest in 2010. climb of their fathers. rough mountain trails. made it back. attempt. 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 11 1975 1976 1978 1985 1989 1990 Junko Tabei of Japan Sagarmatha National Park First ascent without bottled Dig Tsho glacial lake near Tengboche monastery was Peter Hillary followed in became the first woman to was established . Covering oxygen by Reinhold Thame burst and the flood destroyed by fire in 1989. his father's footstep and reach the summit. Tabei an area of 124,400 hectares Messner. The Italian used rushed 90km down the The largest monastery climbed Everest. Peter also went on to climb all the in the Solukhumbu district, the southeast ridge route Dudh Kosi killing 12 people in the region was earlier went on to climb the highest seven highest mountains the park is home to several and was accompanied by and destroying Namche destroyed by an earthquake mountains in all the seven in the world, finishing her rare animal species such as Peter Habeler of Austria. Bazar’s hydropower plant. in 1934. The monastery continents. in 1991. the snow leopard and the red He later climbed Everest in was restored with the panda It was recognised by 1980. help of volunteers and UNESCO as a world heritage international assistance. site in 1979.

ver since Tenzing Norgay and Edmund melting three times faster than the poles. This Hillary climbed Mt Everest on 29 May 1953, panorama of Mt Everest by American filmmaker PRICE TAG Ea lot has changed on the world’s highest and climber David Breashears may look scenic, This season Nepal made Rs 250 million in royalty alone mountain. The 60th anniversary of the climb but is an apocalyptic image of glacial retreat. from 30 teams and 335 foreign mountaineers climbing coincides with the announcement this month In the decades after he climbed Everest, Hillary Mt Everest from the south side. The permit fee varies from season to season, the route taken and the number that the concentration of carbon dioxide in the kept returning to Nepal to help with education and of members in the team. For example a seven member atmosphere has crossed the 400ppm mark, one- health projects. The Sagarmatha National Park team on the normal South Col route in spring would have third more than at the start of the Industrial became a model for eco-tourism. The per capita to pay $70,000 whereas a seven member expedition Revolution. Burning fossil fuels and pumping income of the Khumbu is now four times the on any other route in spring would pay $50,000. If an expedition has more than seven members, it has to pay the carbon into the atmosphere has warmed the national average. There has also been a dramatic $10,000 per climber extra. planet, leading to erratic weather patterns, more change in mountaineering, with more and more intense storms, sea level rise and the melting of commercial expeditions generating employment the polar ice caps. The Himalayan mountains are for Sherpas.

GLACIERWORKS 2005 2008 2009 2010 2011 2013 French pilot Didier Delsalle First ever sky diving near Nepal government 3G network reached Everest. Apa Sherpa climbed the The fist-fight near Camp 3 set the world record for the Everest in 2008. A trio of held a cabinet meeting Ncell, a mobile phone summit 21 times and between Sherpas and three highest ever landing and British adventurers became at Kalapathar to draw operator set up the world’s announced retirement from world renowned Alpine-style takeoff in 2005. Despite the first to take the plunge international attention to the highest third generation Everest expeditions. He climbers broke out in April. the controversy over from above the world’s effects of climate change in mobile network installing has been working to draw It shook the mountaineering the landing, Fédération highest peak. the Himalaya. eight 3G base stations along attention to the impact world, and divided the Aéronautique Internationale the route to Everest base of climate change in the tourism fraternity into (FAI) recognised the record. camp. Himalaya. distinct camps depending on whose version of events they believe more. 12 GIZMO by YANTRICK Star Trek Into Darkness Don’t worry, Star Fleet code and Kirk is furious at Spock for very properly filing an official report on the incident. just drink This is the classic conflict at the heart of the friendship between he lightweight and compact SterilPen water purifi er is the best these two very different characters answer to getting safe drinking water while in the wild. - the impulsive Kirk and the logical Whether you are on a day long hike up one of Nepal’s scenic Spock. T trails or a month long trek to the top of the world, water is your best Enter, the great Benedict friend. But bottled water is not always available especially if you are Cumberbatch as Commander John travelling through remote trails and carrying fi ve heavy Nalgenes is Harrison, reportedly a valuable just impractical. Some hikers use water purifi cation tablets, however agent gone rogue who blows up those can be costly and if you happen to buy cheap knockoff brands, a section of Star Fleet in London. they can do more harm than good. And nothing spoils a good hike When Harrison decamps to Kronos, more than falling ill and drinking untreated water is the fastest way to the Klingon home world, Kirk is do just that. Other than hiring a porter to lug around a water tank on reinstated to seek him out and his back, what other option do you have? destroy him with the help of 72 The lightweight and compact SteriPen water purifi er is just the new long range photon torpedo’s answer. It’s small enough to fi t into a backpack and extremely simple designed specifically in anticipation to use. Snap a few lithium batteries onto the device, suspend it in up of the encroaching conflict with the to a litre of water, and push the button. The ultraviolet light emitted bellicose Klingons. by the device kills off harmful organisms in the water like Salmonella As Kirk struggles with his crew and even the Hepatitis virus, possibly saving you from more serious who are appalled at the directive to consequences than just an upset stomach. In just 90 seconds you get kill Harrison without a fair trial, the a litre of clean, purifi ed water. true strengths of this film become Although the device will set you back by few thousand rupees, apparent. Not only is Star Trek Into it can be used to purify a large amount of water so you could share Darkness a vividly imagined and the cost among friends or co-trekkers. The gadget is also durable riveting action movie, it is also a (waterproof as well as functional after a few knocks), which is an backbone of his team on his ship film that asks the right questions, important consideration during a trek when an unexpected fall could (the beloved and hardy ‘Enterprise’): about morality, responsibility, and occur at any moment. ‘Scotty’ (Simon Pegg) the chief above all a cosmic code where being The SteriPen brand has several diff erent devices to choose from MUST SEE engineer, ‘Bones’ (Karl Urban) the a good human (well, in this case like the Freedom, Classic, and Journey in varying price range. The Sophia Pande ship’s doctor, Sulu (John Cho) the a citizen of this universe) means Traveller version which costs Rs 6,700 should be a part of every third officer, Uhura (Zoe Saldana) doing the right thing and, above backpacker’s gear. The US-imported purifi ers can be found at the the communications officer, all, respecting the life of other Extreme Mountaineer Trekking Mart in Thamel (close to Kathmandu or everyone who has loved and of course, Spock (played by civilisations. Guesthouse) so make sure to grab one before setting off on your next the adventure and romance both Zachary Quinto and the The dialogue is fast, witty, and big adventure. of Star Trek in the past, original Leonard Nimoy in a plot to the point. The sequences set F Yantrick’s this latest installment will not complication that boggles the mind in space are jaw dropping, fully Verdict: The disappoint. The beauty and but is highly enjoyable. justifying the use of 3D, and all SteriPen purifi er mysteries of space, the final While that film lay the the characters that we know and ticks all the boxes frontier, are celebrated, as they groundwork to establish these new love are played extraordinarily well for a serious always have been in the series and faces playing old characters, this by these young new actors with hiker, being in the previous eleven feature films new film has confidently picked up passion and fiery zeal. lightweight, that have been extrapolated from on the core ethos of Star Trek by As Kirk and his team grapple compact and the hugely popular long running beginning with an intense action with betrayal and the frightening, easy to use. Its television show. sequence where Bones and Kirk cold intelligence of Cumberbatch’s versatility and Star Trek Into Darkness is are trying to escape from an alien character, we are treated to a convenience actually a sequel to the reboot of civilisation that they are actually story where all the characters are make it well Star Trek that came out in 2009. trying to save by neutralising a given their due, and as usual the worth the price. Directed by the very talented JJ volcano that is about to destroy Enterprise (very much a character in Abrams, a sci-fi savant that is their planet. In the course of trying her own right) saves the day. When changing the Hollywood formula to save the planet, Spock becomes she rises out of the sky all battered (for the better), that Star Trek is trapped on the volcano and Kirk but still alive you can’t help but an origin story chronicling the makes a decision to allow the want to stand on your seat and childhood and recruitment of primitive aliens to see the Enterprise cheer. Captain James T Kirk (played by in order to save his best friend. Chris Pine) to Star Fleet and his As a result of these choices, the nepalitimes.com subsequent meetings with the Enterprise is taken away from Kirk Watch trailer people who are to become the for violating the Prime Directive of 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 13 RE VIEW THE EVEREST INDUSTRY or an insider look at what is happening climbing and exploration towards individual and depend on it for their livelihood. The to the sport of mountaineering in the gratification and glorification…to be a first tectonic stress between the two styles of FHimalaya, especially on the world’s of something,’ he writes. climbing has been building up in the 60 highest mountain, David Durkan’s quirky On the back cover flap of the book is a years since Hillary and Tenzing’s first new book Penguins on Everest may be the picture taken on the North Face of Everest ascent, and erupted on the Western Cwm place to start. a few years ago in which a long line of last month when Sherpas and three free Durkan is a Welsh climber who lives climbers is jumarring up a fixed rope. None climbers from Europe clashed. in Norway and has been to Nepal 35 times of the mountaineers has an ice axe, which The first successful British expedition in the last 30 years. He used to be the leads Durkan to conclude that they are not on Everest in 1953 was already a harbinger editor of Mountain Magazine, and founded ‘climbing’ but ‘ascending’. The ‘Everest of the trend. It was originally supposed the charity, Mountain People. Penguins tourists’ remind Durkan of penguins, hence to be led by explorer and climber, Eric on Everest is a frontal assault on the the title of the book, with an apology to Shipton, but such was the importance commercialisation of mountaineering and penguins ‘who may feel slighted’. of the climb to British prestige, and the how this has turned Everest Pvt Ltd into a Penguins on Everest is an idiosyncratic, logistics of a large national expedition was product to be bought and sold like any other disjointed and polemical memoir, and so similar to a military operation, that ex- commodity. its stream-of-consciousness style with army man, John Hunt, got to lead it. The The book is full of mocking references frequent personalized digressions may be first ascent was called a ‘victory’, Everest to ‘the trade route’ up Everest, the ‘climbing infuriating to many readers, even those was finally ‘vanquished’ and ‘conquered’. theme park’, ‘instant ego-expeditions’ who agree with the author. Durkan makes Even as a boy, Durkan was inspired which are like ‘geriatric golf courses of no apologies for being judgemental about by early explorer-climbers like Heinrich mountaineering’ and follow the ‘package the devaluation of mountaineering, and Harrer (Seven Years in Tibet) and Maurice holiday expedition model’. No wonder, has got like-minded Himalayan climber Herzog (Annapurna) who went up the Everest expedition industry sees free Doug Scott to write a fittingly hard-hitting Penguins on Everest unknown mountains climbing in literally Alpine-style climbing as ‘irresponsible and preface in which he laments that ‘the very by David Durkan uncharted territory. The book devotes indefensible’ because it puts mountaineers soul of mountaineering is under siege’. Swami Kailash Publications, 2012 a whole chapter to Herzog and his in danger. Durkan’s argument is that How can those climbing on fixed ropes to 186 pages adventures on Annapurna. Perhaps the mountaineering should be all about pre-fixed camps worthy of being called www.mountain-people.org golden age of mountaineering is gone exploring the unknown and confronting mountaineers? [email protected] forever, but Durkan makes an impassioned dangers without reducing the mountain to The evolution of the Everest industry plea to understand, protect and practice suit the climber’s safety standards. has impacted on the Sherpas, who form the innate values of mountaineering. ‘Climbing Everest had moved away from the backbone of expedition-style climbing Kunda Dixit Rum Doodle another. The salami, ham, and sausage pizza (Rs 390) was the best bet. The eight inch wood- SOMEPLACE ELSE fired pizza with generous toppings of the three meats was too large even his 30-year-old for two people establishment named after with a trekker’s Ta fictional mountain is a appetite. A perfect legend in its own right. Climbing bar food, it went heroes Sir Edmund Hillary and regular steak here costs Rs 750 mozzarella salad (Rs 250) and a well with a glass of beer and Reinhold Hessner are known to (plus the customary 10 per cent chicken basket (Rs 290). What we disappeared slice by slice from the have enjoyed a bite and more at and 13 per cent). After walking expected was a perfect refreshing plate as we enjoyed a game of IPL this bar cum restro frequented the entire way from Ratnapark salad for summer. What we got on the TV. mainly by climbers and trekkers. to Jyatha in the heat, fruit lassi was disappointment on a plate. Rum Doodle is a Mecca for Hundreds have etched memories (Rs 130) sounded perfect. The The ruby-red tomatoes teamed climbing enthusiasts where they of their journey on wooden planks popular yogurt-based drink was with chunks of mozzarella were get to brush shoulders with their shaped like yeti footsteps that in a word dissatisfying. The ‘fruit’ under-dressed. There was no heroes but for the rest of us, it decorate this spacious three- in the lassi was missing and it hint of olive oil and the meagerly is just another joint in town that floored venue from ceilings to wasn’t as chilled as we would served basil on top didn’t enhance doesn’t quite live up to its hype. PICS: TSERING DOLKER walls. Lunch or dinner is on the have preferred on a scorching the taste of the salad, at all. The Tsering Dolker house for those who have made it unofficial Everest expert. summer. chicken basket was too greasy to to the top of the world. And how The menu at Rum Doodle is After the initial let down, we our liking. As you bite into a piece, How to get there: As you walk to does the staff know if you are not a mix of continental, Indian and learnt our lesson and restrained an overwhelming taste similar to Thamel, turn left towards the road lying to claim fame and free food? Nepali, but the meals are relatively from being too adventurous that of a thick mushroom fills your leading to Jyatha. Rum Doodle is Whenever in doubt they ring up expensive and service isn’t quite with our lunch orders. For mouth and you are left hunting for located on the right inside a lane, Elizabeth Hawley (see Page 4), the as exemplary as expected. A starters, we chose tomato and a taste of chicken one piece after few metres away from the turning. 14 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657

HAPPENINGS

Everest fever

crisis. Intellectually, they may Japan a week after their climb! have peaked in their professions; The acclimatisation period, but physically they may perceive which may take about two months, DHANVANTARI themselves as wanting. What demands patience. Acclimatisation Buddha Basnyat, MD could be better for the morale means allowing the body’s than an Everest feather on their physiological functions to adapt caps? Except these days, every to the decreased oxygen level he onset of spring signals Tom, Dick and Harry (and Jane (hypoxia) of high-altitude terrain. the start of a veritable and Kanchi Maya) also appear to So climbers have to wait it out in Tonslaught on Everest. have done Everest. the inhospitable Everest Base Camp Gone are the days when climbing Today’s climbers may not or higher to acclimatise to altitude was limited to explorers and always have adequate time over six to eight weeks before adventurers, the likes of Eric either. Indeed, some years ago, they finally make their bid for the Shipton, Ed Hillary, Doug Scott, an elderly Japanese team (all the summit. and Tenzing Sherpa. Now many members of the expedition were As Peter Hackett, altitude BIKRAM RAI climbers who aim to conquer over 55 and were senior board illness expert and Everest UNITED WE STAND: Pashupati Sumsher Rana (left) lights a candle with newly Everest are ‘office workers’ affluent members) decided that they summiteer says, “People can live elected president Surya Bahadur Thapa marking the unity of the Rashtriya enough to use the services of a wanted to climb Everest as quickly for months at 6,000m, weeks at Janashakti Party and Rashtrita Prajatantra Party in Bhrikutimandap on Sunday. commercial guide to help them up as possible, without acclimatising 7,000m but only days at 8,000m.” the mountain. the old-fashioned way. So Heading to the potential ‘death Delving into the psychology of they brought plenty of oxygen zone’ of 8,000m you’re well- this new breed of climbers reveals cylinders and used supplemental advised to understand that at that much about human nature. Many oxygen right from Base Camp. altitude, the human body is unable climb out of interest and a sense of They successfully ascended the to acclimatise further. Good luck excitement. Others, however, may mountain in just over three weeks to those who’ve caught Everest want to climb because of a midlife and reported back to work in summit fever this spring.

NEPAL ARMY SNOW MEN: The second joint team of the Nepal-India Army makes its way to the summit of Mt Everest on Sunday.

CINDREY LIU FERTILE SOIL: A farmer ploughs his field after a night of heavy showers in Pame, Pokhara, on Sunday.

READERS’ PHOTO

ANKITA POUDYAL PICK ME: A vendor arranges products in her souvenir kiosk in Kathmandu. 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 REGION 15

in the IPL had been treated, until this week, as item numbers. It is apposite that the IPL should have spawned a scandal It’s not cricket at the time the nation’s political class is reeling under corruption with juicy half-volleys at a charges. Cricketers don’t live The Indian Premier friendly pace. It entertains the outside the social system, LOOK OUT League corrodes the neo-cricket crowds, whose sense making it inevitable that the Ajaz Ashraf base on which the of cricket history is dim, but it bug of corruption would bite also turns a prolonged stroke- the players, more so as owners historical memory play repetitive and routine and, of IPL teams are no paragons of here has been a of cricket is built therefore, anti-memory. virtue. conspiracy of silence More significantly, IPL is The Rajasthan Royals, to Taround the Indian Premier a tournament in which two which the three players belong, League (IPL) even though most matches are played almost daily, has been served six notices people know that the very way over two long months, turning for violations of the Foreign it is structured could encourage the cricket on display into a blur, Exchange Management Act corruption in cricket. So it is a potent antidote to remembering (FEMA). Subrata Roy, owner hypocritical of us to howl in and doomed to be forgotten. of Pune Warriors, has been horror at the charges of spot- Routine, repetition, and accused of routing funds of fixing against S Sreesanth (pic, mediocrity together constitute dubious origin into two of right) and two other cricketers. cricket’s black hole into which his companies. You have Forget, for the moment, IPL matches disappear. The Vijay Mallya, owner of Royal morality. Let’s focus on the tournament requires black holes Challengers Bangalore, whose design of the IPL tournament. because it needs audiences financial profligacy has led to It is anti-memory, undermining for another two matches the the grounding of his Kingfisher the very process through which following day. Airline. Waywardness we sift and slot happenings for IPL’s overkill lies at the roots constitutes the default of the remembering them in the future. football match, is artificial, such skills over time. Thus, of its corruption. In a long drawn surreal world of IPL. No doubt, IPL is memory-proof, manufactured through a even an extraordinary innings out league, you know well, The ultimate prize for partially because of the flurry of mutilating abbreviation of the comprises strokes similar to a loss here and there doesn’t hypocrisy, though, should go to Twenty20. sport and invention of new each other. matter. A format dependent the media. There was always the Speed is anathema to rules. It consequently corrodes The IPL has only aggravated on risks taken – in the strokes whiff of corruption arising from memory, requiring as it does a the base on which the historical the problems arising from the played, cheeky singles run, and the IPL but we blithely ignored degree of slowness, a lingering memory of the sport is erected, routine and repetitive aspects inexplicable bowling changes it, hoping our praise for IPL over on a piece of sublime, quite unlike, say, football, of Twenty20. For one, the rule – provides a dubious dismissal would bring to us a percentage thrilling action. It is also true where the rapidity of the restricting a team from fielding or a shockingly poor over a of advertisement revenue spent that we linger over those game depends on the skills of more than four foreigners brings justifiable context. A no-ball on it. moments which are unique, contending teams. into play several domestic- deliberately delivered can always With the trio accused of in contrast to the relative Worse, the rules of T20 level players who are mostly be redeemed in another match fixing, we will now talk of ordinariness of other frames encourage repetition, for mediocre. This rule was the day after. new prescriptions, other than constituting a match, whether instance, field restrictions initially hailed for encouraging Add to this the fact that we the structural flaws of IPL. football or cricket. induce players to score runs in indigenous talent. We are were never expected to take Tomorrow will herald a new However, T20 aborts the typically the same manner. Even now wiser: we know domestic IPL seriously, billed as it had beginning for the IPL, as if it process that creates memory. improvisations become routine players are lambs marked for always been as ‘cricketainment.’ never had a past. Its speed, unlike that of a as others imitate and perfect slaughter, for feeding the skilful Persistent rumours about fixing [email protected] 16 NATION United by lifelong grief RAMESWOR BOHARA For the parents of the victims, the war never ended

en years later, it doesn’t seem to matter which side killed them. TWhether they were disappeared by the Army, or tortured and killed by the Maoists, the un-ending grief of the parents they left behind is the same. The only difference seems to be that some were killed because they were fighting for a cause and others were innocent civilians who had nothing to do with the conflict. Nearly compensation. Surprisingly, neither his daughter died for the country’s future. 17,000 Nepalis were killed in the ten- Haider nor Rojita harbour any sense But he is no longer so sure. “So many year war that began in February 1996 of revenge. “If the Maoists mend their Nepalis died for their country, let’s hope and 1,400 are still missing. Most of ways, we might even vote for them. they don’t have to die anymore,” he says. Mana Kumari, “those who killed my son them were young men. But it doesn’t look like they will,” says Haider. are now rich. Wish I could meet them All that Mana Kumari BK has now are and tell them what they did to us.” Kajal Khatun was eight years old, her two grandchildren. Her son, Barun, she was travelling from Kathmandu Sharada Shrestha was always smiling Kailashwati Yadav was proud of her was killed by the Army in 2003 and they to Birganj with her uncle when the and because she sang well, was popular son, Sohanlal, who was respected in the Maoists torched their bus in Bhandar in the village even among non-Maoists. buried him behind her home in Morang. entire community for his generosity. The of Chitwan in February 2002. “She She was a member of the rebel cultural The family migrated to Pune in India, Maoists took him away while they were would have been 19,” says Kajal’s group in Chitwan and was travelling but didn’t like it there. Mana Kumari’s having dinner. Kailashwati watched as mother Rajita, wiping her eyes, but to Palpa in June 2004, when she was husband died last year and now she takes they hacked his legs with an axe and she has no tears left. Kajal’s father captured by the Army, and her body care of her grandchildren from the money slashed his neck with a khukuri. He was Haider used to be a tailor and is dumped into the Seti. Sharada’s father, Barun’s wife sends from the Gulf. “They rushed to hospital, but didn’t survive. now jobless. The family received no Narayan, is 74 and tried to tell himself should have killed me instead,” says When they returned from the funeral No peace after

KUNDA DIXIT shooting from behind the lines. “I wasn’t afraid at all, it was all every exciting and fun,” Navin Navin Jirel recalls. Navin Jirel was just 12 when his The boy was such a mother died. Dad was a civil dedicated whole-timer that the servant, and away often, so his comrades promoted him over brother and sister were sent off older fighters. At first they to an orphanage. Navin had to resented it, but seeing what go and live with his uncle in a born warrior he was, they Sindhupalchok. He didn’t like admiringly called him ‘Phuchhe it there and tried to get back to Commander’. school in Jiri where his friends “Finally I got friendship and were, but he didn’t get admitted. a sense of belonging and I found He met a neighbour who was it enjoyable,” Navin recalls. a Maoist and was treated with After that, Navin took part the kind of affection and respect in the attacks on Bhakunde he never got from relatives. Out Besi, Sindhuli, Bandipur, and of despair and frustration, he Siraha. By age 18 he was such decided to join the Maoists, but an effective guerrilla that he was they said he was too young. He in a select commando force. persevered and within a year “I was addicted to war,” had taken military training and Navin now recalls, “during the served as a battlefield messenger ceasefire periods, I used to miss in the attack on Salleri in the sound of gunfire and wanted November 2002. desperately to get back into They had given him a pistol action.” and in the heat of battle he remembers getting so carried Radha Poudel away he fired off a round into As a young girl in Chitwan, complained about not having he said, there is a war going in Jumla, the people struggle the air. He was reprimanded for whenever Radha Poudel new shoes or pencils, she on and life is hard in the against overwhelming odds remembers her father telling remote mountains. But Radha just to survive. her that children in Jumla reminded her father that it was Radha got a job with a safe didn’t even have enough to he who had inspired her to go motherhood project supported eat. When she grew up, Radha to Jumla and do something for by DFID and immediately set became an anaesthesiologist the people there. out to the remoter parts of the at Bharatpur Hospital and When she got to Jumla district to care for women even applied for a more senior in 2001, Radha could not though it was a war zone. The position. There were only sleep at night seeing how security forces and the Maoists two openings: a relatively mothers died at child-birth both looked at Radha with easy job in Rupendehi, or the and children toiling as porters. suspicion and thought she was hardships of Jumla. Without It was a fluke she wasn’t an enemy spy. hesitation, she chose to go to born there, she thought, and There were rumours that Jumla. she was troubled by the low the district capital would Her father, who had esteem with which the rest of be attacked any day by the worked in Jumla previously, Nepal looked at Jumlis. They Maoists and people would tried to make her change didn’t know that the highest sleep with all their clothes her mind. It is dangerous, rice-grown in the world is on so they could make a 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 17

they found the Maoists had blasted become a ‘martyr’, they didn’t know what after, the Maoists captured and killed of Kalikot in 2004. Laxmi looks at their home and captured their land. the word meant. They rejoiced, thinking their unarmed younger son, Krishna, Sharad’s picture and says: “People are Kailashwati still looks at her son’s he had graduated. Then the Army came when he had come home on leave. They all equal, there are no rich or poor he picture several times a day. “His soul and detained and tortured Ram Prasad for knew Krishna’s killers and saw them used to say. But it didn’t turn out the would rest in peace if his murderers being a father of Maoists. Ramkali used walk around the village every day, and way he wanted. There are thousands were brought to justice,” she says. to tell her mother, “I am not just your couldn’t take it any longer. They left their of grieving mothers like me all over The Maoists admitted they executed daughter, I am the nation’s daughter.” home in Bardiya and came to Devghat. Nepal.” Sohanlal, but now say it may have been Ram Prasad and Tulasa have constructed All they want now is information on a case of mistaken identity. a chautari in the memory of their son and where Krishna’s body is so they can give With reporting by Bachhu BK in Dhangadi, daughter, and now say they sacrificed him a proper funeral. Tufan Neupane in Nepalganj, Gajendra Bohra in Arjun Chaudhary wanted to be a doctor, their lives in vain. Ghorahi, Sabita Shrestha in Narayangad, Bimmi his sister Ramkali was a teacher in Laxmi Awasthi’s oldest son, Sharad, Sharma in Birganj, Kamal Rimal in Biratnagar, Ghorahi of Dang. Their illiterate parents, Chetnath and Sabitri Adhikari chant was thoughtful and responsible. He was Sita Mademba in Dharan and Gopal Gartaula in Ram Prasad and Tulasa, had great prayers all day in an ashram in Devghat in college in Mahendranagar when he Birtamod. hopes for their children but didn’t know of Chitwan, just to take their minds joined the Maoists. Laxmi didn’t know they had joined the Maoists. Ramkali off the tragedy of war. Their elder son, for two years. He used to come home and For a more complete coverage of this story in was killed by the Army. And when a Dharmendra, was killed in action in tell her: “I am fighting for other mothers Nepali, go to: letter came from the party that Arjun had Chisapani of Bardiya in 2004. Soon like you.” Sharad was killed in the battle www.himalkhabar.com

changing the bandages on his hitting the ceiling and walls. A former Maoist guerrilla and a health shoulder and injecting himself The army’s helicopters hovered with painkillers and antibiotics overhead, dropping mortar worker write compelling accounts of what along the way. Even after that bombs, while the Maoists and he takes part in the battle of the army exchanged fierce they lived through during the conflict Chautara and Thukarpa where gunfire in the street below. She war he is nearly killed all over peeped out of the window to again. see captured policemen being Ironically, Navin’s worst beheaded like goats. memories are not of the war She went to hide in or of being wounded, but of her landlady’s room, but a the listless four years in the neighbouring house caught fire cantonment with ebbing morale and they were trapped between and searing doubts about what the smoke and the gunfire it was all for. Students came to outside. Radha thought this was the cantonments to write theses the end, but somehow survived on the Maoist guerrillas and the night and lived to write after giving lots of interviews her book, Khalanga ma Hamala Navin thought he should write (Attack on Khalanga). his own book instead of telling Radha stayed on in Jumla a selective story second-hand. and got the Women Peacemaker Award last year for her selfless work in rural Nepal during the conflict. She says the end of the war hasn’t meant the country is at peace. “We are still in conflict, it’s just that guns are not being used, quick getaway. In the morning innocence, about how war THOSE WERE THE DAYS: Radha He will now be involved as long as people are dying of the people of Jumla would becomes an end in itself, and Poudel (centre, left) with village in social work in Jiri, work hunger the war is still going on. congratulate each other just how the momentum of the elders in a remote part of Jumla in on a museum there. He says: The underlying reasons for the for surviving another night revolution sweeps everyone 2002. “There is still lots to do for the conflict are still there.” Navin Jirel (left, above) welcomes without being killed. along in its path. Pushpa Kamal Dahal at Kamidanda upliftment of my people.” Radha’s first manuscript was Now, Navin Jirel and Radha Navin speaks matter- in Kavre during the confl ict. After the battle of Jumla, lost and she wrote the book all Poudel have both written about of-factly about killing and Radha started writing down over again from memory. It is their conflict experiences. nearly getting killed, the everything she remembered important to document what Their books were launched exhilaration at the end of about the 13 terrifying hours happened, she thinks, so that simultaneously on Thursday by a battle, the sweet taste of darkness and finds a bowl with during the fierce Maoist attack future generations of Nepalis nepa-laya publishers. victory, and the sorrow of liquid and drinks it only to find on Jumla on the night of 14 understand and value genuine Jirel’s book, Bhisan Dinharu losing close friends. There are it was urine. He gets shot, and is November 2002. The CDO, peace. (Ferocious Days), is divided excruciating details of how in rushed to a hospital across the DSP, and dozens of army and Radha says she will plough into three auto-biographical the attack on Siraha, Navin border in Darbhanga. police were killed, and no the royalty from Khalanga ma sections: childhood, battles, finds he is one of the few still Indian Police is on the one knows how many Maoists Hamala to her group, Action and life in the cantonment. alive in his unit after a falling lookout for wounded Nepali died. Radha first just hid under Works Nepal, which works in Although the book is about electricity pylon electrocutes Maoists and he makes a her quilt, thinking it would Jumla, Kalikot, and Achham to the violence and brutality of his remaining comrades. harrowing three-day journey on protect her. help Karnali people to stand on conflict, it is also about lost Thirsty, he gropes in the foot back to the Nepal border, Bullets whizzed all around, their own feet. 18 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 Sir, I miss you NEPALI TWEETS

Looks like Everest isn’t tall enough, Baburam Bhattarai in Annapurna Post, 18 May everyone is reaching the top. Our great party will soon discover a mountain that is taller making it impossible for anyone to scale it. I am deeply shocked by the sudden demise of my school teacher Verghese Thomas who was a father figure to me and made a huge impact on my life. Verghese sir taught us Mathematics from grade seven to ten at Amar Jyoti High School in Luitel, Gorkha and helped build a strong foundation for years to come. I still Sagarmatha is trending on Twitter, let’s remember how sir included a unitary method question in one celebrate. Now poverty will end, there’ll be good governance, and the constitution will be of the exams even though the topic wasn’t part of our syllabus. written. When I scored 100 on the same paper he told me he had made that question to trick me and was happy that I was able to find the Right here waiting right solution. Verghese sir, who Pardesi ko pratiksha, BBC Service, 20 May was originally from After GP Koirala, Rekha Thapa is the only person from Morang who has the potential to Kerala, made a make it big in national politics. great contribution Every day there is a long queue outside the Department of to the education of Foreign Employment (DoFE) in Tinkune as hundreds of youth from Gorkha workers wait to obtain their final permission letter. According as well as Lamjung to the department, around 1,500 Nepalis fly out of Kathmandu and Tanahu and to India, the Gulf, South Korea, Malaysia, US, and Europe was responsible in search of work. But this data does not account for the I wonder when we will fi nd out about the for nurturing thousands who leave without authorisation. wealth amassed by 500 hot shot political dons. talents like Thirty-year-old Sita Tamang from Rasuwa is at Tinkune Upendra Devkota. with her her husband who returned from Saudi Arabia after After serving as working there for more than two years and is planning to go WEEKLY BAZAR POLL #14 headmaster at back. She says: “He is going so far away, I will miss him and Amar Jyoti for worry about what he is doing. When he is out of the country several years he friends and relatives also look down upon me.” In weekly polls conducted with the went on to teach at Aladin Adab, 21, came home to Mahottari after three support of The Asia Foundation, Pokhara’s Gandaki grueling years in Saudi Arabia. But newlywed Adab is in a Himal Khabarpatrika asks 375 respondents in 12 cities across Nepal hurry to leave because he wants to repay the loans he took for Boarding school where he even became campus chief. every Monday for their opinion on As soon as I heard about Verghese sir’s death, I knew we had to his home and wedding. “I told my wife I will come back in four contemporary issues. This week’s do something to honour him. I have been in touch with Dr Laxmi years and call her regularly, but she is not happy, neither are result of interviews about Khil Raj Devkota, president of Amar Jyoti Alumni Association and other my family members. But I have no other option,” he admits. Regmi led government: members to discuss plans for a memorial program. Many have Last year alone, 400,000 workers left the country (not sent me suggestions on twitter as well. Some have recommended counting India) and the number continues to swell. Women What is the main responsibility of the issuing Nepali citizenship to Verghese sir’s children who were make up about three per cent of the total number of those present government? born and brought up here and are working in the country. I’ll have opting for foreign employment. Nepali citizens are allowed Hold elections: 80.2% to see what can be done in this matter. to work in 109 countries around the world. And while India Don’t know: 12.6% When the comprehensive peace agreement was signed and our receives a huge number of migrant workers, data is largely Carry day to day activities: party entered mainstream politics, sir came to visit me personally missing. But what is not in doubt is the role played by 6.7% in Kathmandu. We were supposed to meet in February but he remittances in propping up the country’s economy. Don’t want to say: 0.5% “There are different reasons why Nepalis seek employment was unable to come as his wife had fallen ill. When I told him How would you rate the two months of I would pay him a visit, he said he would come to Baluwatar. outside the country. Some are tempted by the lifestyles of Khil Raj Regmi led government? Unfortunately, I could not fulfil his wish of seeing me in their friends and families who live abroad while others are Average: 48.4% Baluwatar. ashamed to work in Nepal. There are also those who feel like Worse than before: that they are not fully utilising their skills by working here. 30.5% Another group has a hard time finding jobs in the country and Don’t know: 11.2% then there are women with difficult family lives who want to Better than before: 9.1% escape,” explains Binod KC, head of DoFE. Don’t want to say: 0.8%

Go betweens Dhruba Adhikari, Rajdhani, 21 May

As Makwanpur becomes a transit point for drug traffi cking, drug rings are increasingly using children as decoys because juveniles cannot be arrested. Instead, police hand over children to parents and guardians after giving them a warning. Since 2009 only six cases have been fi led in the juvenile bench for drug traffi cking and this year there has been only a single case. Last month, the District Police Offi ce in Makwanpur caught nine children from Hetauda bus park, Ram mandir chok, Ratomate, Karra, and Churiyamai area. Some of those who were detained were younger than If Madan Bhandari was You are alive, but nothing is 10. According to the public defender alive, the country wouldn’t different. of the district court of Makwanpur be in such a mess. Koshaleswor Gyawali, traffi ckers give children Rs 500 to 1,500 for carrying Rabindra in Nepal, 19 May drugs. Since children cannot arrested

or locked up and the only option is to

rehabilitate them at home, cases like QUOTE OF THE WEEK these are on the rise says Gyawali. “ According to locals, marijuana and I am ready to pick up arms if the opium produced in Makwanpur are “ need arises. traffi cked to India and other drugs and syringes are traffi cked to various cities Rekha Thapa, actress and member in the country through this southern of UCPN (M), Janadesh, 21 May hub. 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 NATION 19 Syndicated federation Nepal is needlessly being pushed to federalise because discredited political leaders need a face-saving agenda

based federalism and chided him for supporting it. He then GUEST COLUMN went on to India where he was Bihari K Shrestha advised to back a potentially less divisive model of language- based federalism. Suddenly, the NT ARCHIVE decibel level for ethnicity-based as to help their recruitment 18,000 and at least federalism – especially of the epal is the oldest federalism has gone down. The of young fighters. After the 100,000 Mothers’ Groups ethnic variety. If the response to nation state in South Nepal Federation of Indigenous ceasefire in 2006, this agenda that include nearly all rural federalism is ‘no’, then there is NAsia and has existed Nationalities (NEFIN) which was force-fed to other parties households in the country. no need to repeat past mistakes as an integrated country for saw its western funding dry which had lost their support If the political parties are and elect a new CA. We can two-and-half centuries. Now, up is now headed by a young base. Had the NC and UML serious about elections, they just have direct parliamentary our politicians supported by novice from the smaller Kumal been convinced about the need should ask these organisations elections to amend the Interim misguided foreign backers, want ethnic constituency. Kumal for federalism, they would if they would like to see the Constitution, institute true to disintegrate it. Politicians defeated a much more radical have proposed it back in 1990. country broken up into federal political devolution, and move have used federalism to rabble Maoist-backed candidate. Ethnic autonomy was the provinces and gauge the public ahead. But few politicians rouse and stoke communal Could it be that all this is a core of the Maoist proposal for mood. Local people whose (except perhaps Chitra Bahadur tensions, but what is much result of the deep doubts that federalising the country. This views have not been distorted KC) have the courage to call it worse is that they aren’t our big neighbours have about meant carving out the country by external funding are more like it is. even serious about political how divisive ethnic politics into provinces defined by honest and forthcoming with devolution: federalism is just a could destabilise Nepal? If so, ethnicity a la Mao Zedong and their real opinions. Poll after Bihari K Shrestha is an buzzword to camouflage their it proves once more that our Josef Stalin: a model that China poll has shown that they anthropologist and is a retired drive for centralised power. neighbours seem to be more is not so enamoured with have serious misgivings about civil servant. As chair of the State concerned for our welfare than anymore and which ultimately Restructuring Committee in the our own populist politicians. led to the disintegration of the ex-CA, Maoist Chairman Pushpa The indigenous personalities Soviet Union. Kamal Dahal wooed seven UML who were breathing fire There is no rationale members to his side by agreeing and brimstone while being anymore for Nepal to to their individual demands for beneficiaries of western funding be federalised. Effective Sherpa and Mithila provinces. have suddenly abandoned devolution of political power He then backed a model of NEFIN in droves. to the districts through 14 ethnicity-based federal Let’s face it: federalising genuine decentralisation will provinces through majority the country and doing so along be the least disruptive and voting that departed from the ethnic lines was never the catalyse development. But practice of consensus-based demand of the Nepali people. try telling that to the political decision-making. In a normal democracy, that parties and their discredited Dahal outsmarted NC majority opinion would have leaders. members of the panel who been put to a referendum. While The Maoists and the other were rooting for a non-ethnic a majority of Nepalis rue the parties that followed the seven province model, but the demise of the CA, they are glad federalisation bandwagon committee decision exposed the it was dissolved before it could cannot do a U-turn without frivolous need to score political pass a constitution that would losing face, so it is a question points that had become the effectively break the country up of who has the courage to hallmark of the sensitive issue into little pieces. bell the cat. Rural Nepal of constitution writing. Ethnicity-based federalism that makes up 85 per cent of In Dahal’s recent visit to was a strategy adopted by population is saturated by two Beijing, Chinese leaders are the Maoists to drive a wedge highly inclusive community said to have reiterated their between the government and organisations: Community misgivings over ethnicity- people during the war, as well Forest User Groups numbering 20 BACK SIDE 24 - 30 MAY 2013 #657 www.nepalitimes.com www.nepalitimes.com

Climbing Mt Neverest

ranscripts recently declassified under the Freedom of Information Act finally give us a historical perspective on the Tfirst ascent of Mt Neverest 60 years ago and lay to rest the big question of who got to the top first: Hillary or Tenzing. It is well documented that after he came down from the mountain, Ed Hillary told George Lowe: “Well, George, we knocked the bastard off.” Sir Ed sure swore like a sailor, but what is less well known is that the Royal Geographical Society has a transcript of his conversation with Tenzing as the two approached the summit on 29 May 1953. The following content is rated ‘R’, parental discretion is advised and we will request all unaccompanied minors at this point to run along outside and play on the swing for the duration of this column:

TENZING: (Muffl ed, through oxygen mask) Sir, wake up sir. Tea ready. HILLARY: Black, no sugar. Let’s knock the virginity off this @*#$% mountain fi rst. TENZING: Here we are at the Grade Six bit of vertical rock on the South Ridge, sah’b, we’ll need to rope up and I’ll cut some steps. Can we name this the Tenzing Step? HILLARY: Sorry, man, I hereby name this bugger the Hillary Step after myself. TENZING: Oh. OK. HILLARY: Here we are at the South Summit, Tenzing, why don’t you rustle up some rum and coke while I try to establish the highest ever urinal in human history… that is if I can open my %$%#@ zipper. TENZING: I’d check the wind direction fi rst if I were you. Oops, too late. HILLARY: Billions of blistering barnacles! The $%$#@ it freezes solid as soon as it comes out, I’ll have to keep breaking off the yellow icicles as I relieve myself over the Tibetan Plateau. TENZING: You realise, don’t you sir, that we are making history here? HILLARY: Yup, 60 years from now I’ll be on a New Zealand $5 note and on the cover of the %$#+& National Geographic. You go on ahead, Tenzing. I’ll take a little nap right here. TENZING: No, no, it’s getting late, we’re nearly there, sah’b. Here, let me carry you.

(Tenzing heaves Hillary on his shoulders, stands on the summit of Mt Everest, see pic above.)

This secret transcript clearly proves that while Tenzing was indeed first to set foot on top, Hillary by virtue of being on his shoulder actually reached a higher altitude above mean sea level. The two were wildly feted as they came off the mountain. Hillary kept on muttering something about knocking the sonofabitch off, while the Nepali government commissioned Dharma Raj Thapa to compose a famous folk song which goes: “Our famous Tenzing Sherpa, got to the top, carrying that weakling Hillary on his shoulder.”

Slight problem: Tenzing promptly decided he was an Indian national after all. It took Kathmandu 50 years to finally overcome bureaucratic hurdles to award honorary Nepali citizenship to Hillary in honour of his ability to swear like a native. Sir Ed had all the rights and privileges of a Nepali citizen which meant he had to apply in New Delhi for an Australian visa. But at least he could fly to Lukla for one-third the tourist fare.

CDO Regd No 194/056/57 Lalitpur, Central Region Postal Regd. No 09/069/70