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^ OF LLUSTRATED -BY- HARRY-MORLEY ^ 1)C ajarncU Uttincraita Iiihratg FROM THE BENNO LOEWY LIBRARY COLLECTED BY BENNO LOEWY 18S4-19I9 BEQUEATHED TO CORNELL UNIVERSITY THE GA Engl & The date shows when this volume was taken. :OME USE RULES All books subject to recall All borrowers must regis- ter in the library to borrow books for home use. All books must be re- turned at end of college year for inspection and repairs. Limited books must be returned within the four week limit and not renewed. Studejnts must return all hooks before leaving town. Ofificers should arrange for the return of books wanted during their absence from town. Volumes of periodicals and of pamphlets are held in the library as much as possible. For special pur^ poses they are given out for a limited time. Borrowers should not use their library privileges for the benefit of other persons. Books of special value and gift books, when the giver wishes it, are not allowed to circulate. Readers are 'asked to re- port all cases of books marked or mutilated. Pp not deface books by marks and writing. The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028348229 Cornell University Library DC 707.H99 1913 Charm of Paris : 3 1924 028 348 229 IN UNIFORM STYLE Each compiled by Alfred H. Hyatt Crown 8vo., cloth gilt, 5s. net each ; velvet calf, 7s. 6d. net each THE CHARM OF LONDON With Twelve Illustrations in Colour by Yoshio Marking THE CHARM OF VENICE With Twelve Illustrations in Colour by Harald Sund THE CHARM OF PARIS With Twelve Illustrations in Colour by Harry Morley THE CHARM OF EDINBURGH [si,or,iy. With Twelve Illustrations in Colour by Harry Morley LONDON : CHATTO fi- WINDUS THE CHARM OF PARIS v> •'*-' ' ] .*?*:f 7^ THE SEINE FROM THE LOUVRE THE CHARM OF PARIS AN ANTHOLOGY COMPILED BY ALFRED H. HYATT WITH 12 ILLUSTRATIONS BY HARRY MORLEY LONDON CHATTO S WINDIS 1913 THE CHARM OF PARIS AN ANTHOLOGY COMPILED BY ALFRED H. HYATT WITH 12 ILLUSTRATIONS BY HARRY MORLEY LONDON CHATTO & WINDUS 1913 A New Edition All righti reserved EDITOR'S NOTE It is believed that the principle upon which this selection has been made will give it an original value even to those to whom the passages chosen are already familiar. The editor's desire has been to bring together quotations which, grouped into various clearly-limited sections, will recall to English readers the aspect of Parisian streets and notable buildings, together with significant phases of Parisian life and character. A. H. H. To the present edition have been added twelve illustrations after the water-colour drawings of Mr. Harry Morley. February 1913. ; ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The following copyright poems and prose extracts aie included by courteous permission of the publishers and authors of the same, to whom the editor desires to tender his thanks : To the Walter Scott Publishing Company, Ltd., for extracts from Isabel F. Hap- good's translation of Victor Hugo's ' Les Miserables '; to Mr. Henry James for an extract from ' The Prin- cess Casamassima ' (Messrs. Macmillan and Co., Ltd.) to Mr. Andrew Lang and Messrs. Longmans, Green and Co. for a poem from ' Ballads and Ljnrics of Old France '; to Messrs. Hutchinson and Co. for extracts from Smile Zola's ' A Love Episode '; to Mr. Richard Whiteing and Mr. A. H. Hallam Murray for an extract ' from The Life of Paris '; to Mr. Hilaire Belloc for ' extracts from his volume Paris ' (Messrs. Methuen and Co.) ; to Mr. Ashmore Wingate for his translation of Verlaine's ' Parisian Nocturne,' from ' Poems of Paul -Verlaine' (Scott's 'Canterbury Poets'), anci ' ' also for his poem Paris : A Parisian's Apology to Messrs. Sampson Low, Marston and Co., Ltd., for extracts from Oliver Wendell Holmes's ' One Hun- ' dred Days in Europe ' and Alphonse Daudet's My Brother Jack '; to Mr. C. C. Hoyer Millar, on behalf ' X ACKNOWLEDGMENTS of the estate of the late George du Maurier, for ex- tracts from ' Trilby,' ' Peter Ibbetson,' and ' The ' Martian (Messrs. Harper Bros.) ; to Mr. John Lane for Richard le Gallienne's ' Paris Day by Day,' from ' R. L. S. and Other Poems '; to Mr. Arthur Symons ' for poems from Collected Poems ' (Mr. William Heinemann) ; to Miss Braddon for extracts from ' Ishmael '; to Mr. Alexander Moring for extracts from ' Mr. J. F. Macdonald's Paris and the Parisians '; to Mr. James Payne and the Villon Society for ' Ballade of the Women of Paris,' from ' The Poems of Francois Villon,' by James Payne; to Miss M. Betham-Edwards for extracts from her various volumes, including ' Two Aunts and a Nephew (J. W. Arrowsmith) to Mr. J. W. Arrowsmith for an ' extract from Max O'Rell's Jacques Bonhomme '; to Mr. W. E. Goulden for an extract from his treins- ' lation of Murger's ' Bohemians of the Latin Quarter ' (Messrs. Maclaren) ; to the author of The Rowley Letters from France and Italy ' for an extract from his volume (Mr. T. N. Foulis) ; to Mr. Alfred Noyes for lines from ' In the Crowd,' from ' Poems ' (Messrs. VViUiam Blackwood and Sons) ; to Messrs. Seeley and Co., Ltd., for an extract from Philip Gilbert Hamer- ton's ' Paris '; to Lady BayUss for Sir Wyke Bayliss's ' sonnet, La Sainte Chapelle '; to Messrs. Houghton Mifflin for extracts from Nathaniel Hawthorne's ' French and Italian Note-Books '; to Mr. William Heinemann for a poeiji from the works of Heinrich ; ACKNOWLEDGMEiNTS xi Heine, vol. ix., and also a poem from ' The Poetry of Wilfrid Blunt'; to Messrs. Ellis and Mr. W. M. Rossetti for two sonnets by Dante Gabriel Rossetti to Mr. A. E. Waite for an extract from his translation ' of De Senancour's Obermann '; to Vernon Lee for ' ' extracts from Genius Loci ' and The Enchanted Woods ' (Mr. John Lane) ; to Messrs. Chatto and ' Windus for extracts from Emile Zola's Paris ' and ' The Fat and the Thin,' and ' The Court of the Tuileries,' by Le Petit Homme Rouge ; to Messrs. Kegan Paul, Trench, Triibner and Co., Ltd., for a poem by Sir Lewis Morris ; and to Mr. G. J. Trares for a poem. CONTENTS PAGE The Charth of Paris i In Praise of Paris 35 s-The Streets of Paris 67 Some Parisian Phases 93 Bohemian Paris 167 A Few Parisian Portraits 187 The Seasons in Paris 213 Portraits of Places 231 The Romance of Paris 285 Paris of the Past 329 Index of Authors 400 Table of Contents 401 xiii ILLUSTRATIONS The SeTNE from the Louvre Frontispiece Avenue on Bois de Boulogne To face fagi i6 QuAi Aux Fleurs 6- Rue de la Paix 78 Terraces at Saint Cloud 132 QuARTiER Place Saint Michel, 170 Notre Dame 238 Saint I^tienne du Mont 250 QuAi Voltaire 268 Montmartre : Rue Lepic 276 Paris from Notre Dame 346 In the Tuileries Gardens 378 THE CHARM OF PARIS Paris beamed upon me through her open shop windows ; the Odeon itself seemed to nod affably towards me, and the white marble queens in the gardens of the Luxembourg . appeared to bow graciously and welcome my arrival. ALPHONSE DAUDET. Paris more than ever strikes me as the handsomest city in the world. I find nothing comparable to the view up and down the river, or to the liveliness of its streets. At night the river with its reflected lights, its tiny bateaux mouches with their ferret eyes, creeping stealthily along as if in search of prey, and the dimly outlined masses of building that wall it in, gives me endless pleasure. I am as fond as ever of the perpetual torchlight procession of the avenue of the Champs £lys6es in the evening, and the cafis chantants are more like the Arabian Nights than ever. JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL. What point of Paris is dull to look at ? AA^ere are the shop-fronts that do not fascinate ? . Glance down the sudden break in the street, where a kind of tall walled terrace runs, trellised, rich in leafage, as silent as the street of a dead city, where wealth shelters itself from envy by its tone of subdued and sober elegcuice. And yet it is not more trim than are the haunts of commerce, the abodes of labour. Who would not envy the flower-women of the Quai des Fleurs, with their glorious vista of stone and waterways ? The curving Seine, ribboned round its beautiful old island, grey-walled, upon the river's brink ; the spire of the Sainte Chapelle, painted gold, upon a soft or brilliant sky, and the magnificent gates of the Palace of Justice, as much theirs as are the rich man's priceless possessions in his own house. HANNAH LYNCH. THE SPIRIT OF PARIS When a man looks eastward from the western heights that dominate the city, especially from that great hill of Valerian (round which so many memories from Ste. Genevidve to the last war accumulate), a sight presents itself. Let us suppose an autumn day, clear, with wind following rain, and with a grey sky of rapid clouds against which the picture may be set. In such weather and from such a spot the whole of the vast town lies clearly before you, and the impression is one that you will not match nor approach in any of the views that have grown famous ; for what you see is unique in something that is neither the north nor the south; something which contains little of scenic interest and nothing of dramatic grandeur ; men have forborne to describe it because they have known Paris well enough to comprehend that horizon; .

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