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Wire Rope Splicing Handbook N.Z

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Wire Rope Splicing Handbook N.Z HANDBOOK SPLICING ( ( I ROPE N.Z. Logging Industry Research Association Inc. WIRE N.Z. Logging Industry Research Association Inc P.O. Box 147 ROTORUA New Zealand WIRE ROPE SPLICING HANDBOOK N.Z. Logging hd•.1stry, Research Assn. Inc. P.O. Box 147 Rotorua ' ) Prepared by: John W. Simpson N.Z. Logging Industry Research Association Inc Photography by: H. G. Hiemcke- Hemming Forest Research Institute Acknowledgement: LIRA acknowledges the assistance of Cookes Consolidated Services Limited in supplying the wire rope and fittings used in the preparation ofthis handbook. ) MARCH 1984 1 i1ij~1~1]1]~1~1 1r1~1~1l1~1 r1~~1 1~111~1]1i1~1111r1~1~i ! 11 HOLMES PRINTING - ROTORUA --., ------ 3 2271 00019646 8 INTRODUCTION The purpose of this handbook is to illustrate effective methods of splicing wire rope and attaching fittings. In the interests of safety, it is essential that this work is carried out correctly. This can only be achieved with practice, as it takes experience to learn how to handle the rope and marlin spike effectively. SPLICING TOOLS Good, well maintained tools are required to join wire rope strands together in either an endless or eye splice. The tools illustrated are some of those that are commonly used in the logging industry for splicing ropes from 6mm-32 mm. Marlin spikes can either be purchased from rigging suppliers, or made to suit. ) 11 I 18" Purpose 12" and 1 O" Spikes made spike (made from drifts) Two commonly used rope cutters are the hammer-blow and scissor type. "Enerpac" impact "Fe/co " C16 Rope cutter Rope cutter GENERAL NOTES The splices and attachments illustrated in this handbook are those that are commonly used in New Zealand logging operations. The wire ropes used were 180 grade 6 x 19 and 6 x 31 IWRC right hand ordinary lay. Any form of splice creates a weakness in the rope through distortion so that the following points should be noted - (1) Care should be taken to ensure that the wires in the rope strand are not distorted or damaged by the marlin spike. (2) When the rope has a fibre core, it should be tucked into the body of the rope with the first strand, and then cut off where it emerges from the rope. A wire strand or independent wire rope core should be run up with the other strands for three tucks. It should not be cut out at the start of the splice. (3) The distance between each of the first tucks and the point where they pass into the body of the rope should be as short as is practicable. (4) The tension applied to all tucking strands, when pulling them in, should be as uniform as possible. (5) After each set of strand tucks, a check should be made to ensure that they have all been pulled in as tight as possible. (6) The tucking strands should emerge from the valleys of the main rope in their correct position so that the load applied to the rope through the splice will be applied evenly to all strands. Wire rope attachments will only be effective if they are correctly fitted. Points to note are - (1) Zinc metal ferrules will only give maximum efficiency when the rope has been thoroughly cleaned, and a suitable quality metal is heated to the correct temperature before pouring. (2) Wedge sockets should be free from all burring and strand grooving between the wedge face and the body of the socket. EFFICIENCY OF SPLICES AND ATTACHMENTS The efficiency or breaking strength of a splice or attachment is measured by its ability to hold the wire rope. If the rope breaks before the splice or attachment gives way, their efficiency is 100% of the wire rope's breaking strength. The efficiencies shown in Table 1 should be treated as indicative only, as the strength of individual splices and attachments will vary according to the skill of the splicer, the size of the rope and its construction. TABLE 1 - EFFICIENCY OF SPLICES AND ATTACHMENTS* Type of Splice or Attachment Indicative Efficiency (Percent) (1) Married eye - (a) 3 strands tucked 3 times, and 3 strands twice. 87 - 92% Core run up and tucked. ( b) Sa me as (a) but the core not tucked 85 - 90% ( c) Strand ends not tucked 35 - 40% ( d) Strand ends not tucked, but clamped to the body 75 - 80% of the rope (2) Logger's eye 87 - 97% (3) Butt splice** 91 - 96% (4) Cut splice 87 - 95% (5) Grommet - (a) 5 strand with the strand ends not tucked 120 - 130% ) (b) 6 strand with the strand ends tucked 150 - 160% (6) Zinc ferrule 100% (7) Swaged or pressed ferrule 100% (8) Wedge ferrule 75 - 90% (9) Rope clamps - (a) "U-bolt" type properly fitted 80 - 85% ( b) "U- Bolt" type improperly fitted 60- 75% * Ref 1 LIRA Cable Logging Handbook ** Ref 2 G.S. Shields, "Wire Rope Splicing Methods", LIRA Technical Release, Vol.3 No.2 1981. ..,..--, .. ~ THERE IS A BETTER WAY . .... TABLE OF CONTENTS Page (1) Married Eye Splice . 1 (2) Logger's Eye Splice . 14 (3) Butt Splice . 31 (4) Cut Splice . 50 (5) Grommet . 58 (6) Zinc Ferrules . 64 ) (7) Wedge Ferrules . 68 1 The Married Eye is a simple eye splice which can be used where the loading on the rope is not excessive. Common uses are for tractor and skidder winch ropes and for strops. The breaking strength ofthis splice MARRIED EVE SPLICE with the strands tucked a minimum of three one side and two the other, with the core tucked, is 87- 92% of the rope's breaking strength. STEP 1 Split the end of the rope in two lengthwise, by separating three adjacent strands and the core. Unravel the two to a length sufficient to form the size of eye required, then add 20-45 ems to that length to allow for tucking the strands (bigger rope will require a longer strand length for tucking). ) STEP 2 Form the eye by bending the length of rope with the three strands and the core around, under and back over the other length. Align the halves so that where they cross at the base of the eye, the strands in each half of the rope will seat together. 2 STEP 3 Marry the length of rope with the three strands, around the eye that has been formed with the three strands and the core. STEP 4 Continue to marry the three strand length around the eye. To finish the eye the three strand end is taken up through the eye to lie on top of the body of the rope. The other end is taken down through the eye to lie underneath. STEP 5 The eye is formed and ready for the strands to be tucked. To check that the eye is correct, the strand lengths should be on opposite sides of the base of the eye, and should lie at an angle to each other. 3 STEP 6 For the first strand tuck, the marlin spike goes under the three strand length, and under the top strand on the body of the rope. Close-up of the base of the eye showing where the marlin spike is inserted for the first strand tuck. ) 4 STEP 7 Roll the marlin spike back along the direction of the rope lay. The three strand length is pulled clear of the tip of the spike as it is rolled back. STEP 8 Continue to roll the spike, in the direction of the rope lay, around to the back of the rope. This will open up the body of the rope for the tucking sequence. Unlaythe closest inside strand of the three strand length. Pull this strand back as shown to bend it slightly. This will allow the strand to seat better in the splice. 5 STEP 9 Tuck the unlaid strand down through the hole next to the spike, and pull it through. ,) STEP 10 ) To complete the tuck, and tighten the strand in the splice, roll the spike back towards the eye, in the direction of the rope lay, then remove it. 6 STEP 11 The first strand tuck is completed. For the second and third strands repeat Step 6 with the marlin spike under each successive top strand on the body of the rope, and roll the spike as illustrated in Step 7 and 8. As shown in Step 8 and 9 the closest remaining inside strand is tucked down through the hole and pulled tight. Complete the tuck as shown in Step 10. 7 STEP 12 The first three strands tucked once. STEP 13 Turn the eye over and repeat Steps 6-11 for the first two strands. ) _) 8 STEP 14 To tuck the last strand and the core, the spike goes under the third strand from the top of the body of the rope (this is the only strand at the top of the body of the rope that doesn't have a strand end tucked under it). STEP 15 Separate the last strand and the core. Roll the spike towards the eye, and pull the core behind the spike. The strand stays on top of the spike. 9 STEP 16 Roll the spike away from the eye along the direction of the rope lay, keeping the core behind the spike. If the core is held tight as the spike is rolled, it will roll into the body of the rope. Tuck the last strand as illustrated in Step 9 and 10. STEP 17 Three strands tucked one side, ) and three strands and the core tucked on the other side.
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