GLASGOW’S MERCHANT CITY

Large font version also available – to obtain a copy either call Merchant City Initiative on 0141 552 6060 or visit the website at www.glasgowmerchantcity.net bscureThe OOHistory

All efforts have been made in the accuracy of the information contained in this leaflet. The funders are not responsible for any inaccuracies that may occur. T 3 QUEEN ST STATION RICK S CATHEDRAL ST 2 1 5 CASTLE ST

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O N ST HUTCHESON ST 10 100m HIGH ST POST BOX/OFFICE 19 TR H 20 ONGA ALBIO RAILWAY TE CANDLERIGG L O F UNDERGROUND SBO 18 T ST ENOCH RNE ST CENTRE 12 Information J BELL ST WATSON S PARNIE S TOURIST INFORMATION, OSBOURNE ST T I THE CROSS GEORGE SQUARE: 13 0141 204 4400 ST ANDREWS ST WWW.SEEGLASGOW.COM HOWARD ST STOCKWELL ST LONDON RD TRAINS, UNDERGROUND G ST K T E AND BUSES: KIN K R 30 A 0870 608 2608 M WWW.SPT.CO.UK BRIDGEGATE LT SA 16 RISON ST TAXI RANKS: 0141 429BARRAS 7070 (EAST SIDE OF QUEEN ST RIVER C 17 JAMES MOR STATION/QUEEN ST JUNCTION LYDE 15 WITH ARGYLE STREET) G REEN DYK E ST CITY CENTRE REPRESENTATIVES 14 SPOT THE LITTLE RED REPS GLASGOW GREEN

Accompanying the “Obscure History Plaques” Aplaced in pavements of the area your quest is to uncover the Merchant City’s hidden history. From the tales of colourful characters to the grisly murder of a flea - the Merchant City vaults have been plundered for this leaflet. This leaflet Deep beneath the modern accompanies “the Merchant City Visitor Guide” listing the various amenities and visitor streets of the Merchant City attractions and “the Merchant City Architecture Trail” which celebrates the rich architecture of lurks an obscure history. the area that you will pass by on your quest.

High Street, 19th century St. Mungo Glasgow Cathedral, mid-17th century Mary, Queen of Scots High Street Close, 19th century

1. Cathedral it is a popular haunt for Soon after her arrival in Missing Relics the Glasgow chapter of Glasgow she decided to In the In 1560, the Reformation the Vampire Society. Open dispatch the ailing Darnley I of the Church sent the to the public from dawn to Edinburgh, where shortly Bishop Beaton fleeing to till dusk ...and best avoided after he was murdered. Beginning... Paris. Before he fled he after that! It is believed that whilst rescued a number of staying in the Provand’s ...There was a monk sacred items from the 4. Cathedral House Lordship she wrote the called Kentigern Cathedral. Amongst these Hotel 28/32 “Casket Letters” which relics were: pieces of the revealed her affair with who was visited by Cathedral Precinct Bothwell and implicated Cross of Christ, a casket Established in 1877 as a an angel, who told containing some of the her in the murder of her the monk to head hostel for prisoners being husband. Virgin Mary’s hair, part of discharged from the Duke west. So west the the girdle of the Virgin, Street Prison. The prison monk went. He a fragment of St. stood where we now see a High Street found himself on a Bartholomew’s skin, a modern housing estate. bone of St. Magdalene, Cathedral House was a hill, gazing down a milk from the Virgin, part The High Street is one hostel for both men and of the oldest streets in verdant valley and to of the manger in which women for more than 80 the sparkling waters Jesus was born and fluid the city. Continuing years and contained murals from Castle Street, High of a river. He said which seeped from the painted by the ‘Glasgow tomb of St. Mungo. Street ambles down the ‘Glaschu’ (what a Boys’. When the Duke hill towards Glasgow dear green place) Street Prison closed, so did Cross, carrying with it 2. Cathedral Precinct the hostel and the murals and decided to stay. The precinct in front of were moved to the new tales of poetry, The people who the Cathedral was used for prison, Barlinnie, where mercantile wealth, body lived in the “dear burning witches and they were subsequently snatching and squalor. green place” took a heretics. Glasgow had it’s destroyed in a fire. Two fires in the 17th own Witch Finder General, century almost shine to this monk the Reverend Cooper, who Not surprisingly, this completely destroyed and nicknamed him was so efficient at building is believed to this area, which cost a Mungo, which catching witches and be haunted. small fortune to rebuild. means “dear friend”, gaining their confessions The new buildings that he became known as inspired Daniel Defoe to they even made him “Burning Cooper”. write “the four principle their patron saint, streets... are the fairest and so the history of Also within view of the for breadth and the Glasgow began... Cathedral are: The Magai by finest built that I have (or so legend has it). Peter Howson- ever seen... ‘tis one of 3. The Necropolis one of the new the cleanest, most In 1831 it was decided to Glasgow Boys’. beautiful and best built turn an old pleasure cities in Great Britain.” The Necropolis ground into a garden 5. Provand’s Lordship Sadly this beauty did cemetery. It was named The Casket Letters not survive. In 1853 Necropolis (City of the The story goes that Mary Hugh MacDonald wrote Dead) and makes an Queen of Scots stayed “Sin and misery are impressive backdrop for here when visiting her indeed here to be seen the Cathedral. It was husband, Darnley, who in loathsome union.” designed to be a place of was ill with the pox. She peace and inspiration for and Darnley were far from the local populace. Today happily married, in fact Mary was having an affair with the Earl of Bothwell. Pleasures ofOpe”, works included“The and mischief.Hischief fights andpronetopranks boisterous lad,alwaysin children. Hewasa 1777, theyoungestof12 Campbell wasborninJuly poet ThomasCampbell. plaque commemoratingthe Linen Bankbuilding)isa building (theoldBritish beautiful redsand-stone facing wallofthis College Bar)Onthenorth just southoftheOld corner ofNicholasStreet 215 HighStreet:(atthe England 6. Ye Marinersof Newsagents. Kay, Tobacconists and Milliners Shop.J&A Boyd’s Drapersand this site.1880,MissJ Pawnbrokers Shopfrom Ballantyne operatedhis Street. 1860,James after aspellat70 High McVean arrivedhere Bookshop ofDuncan 1822, Thedingy A. 175HighStreet

Glasgow University, 17th century Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein Mary Shelley’s Westminster. Poet’s Cornerin Square andisburiedin has astatueinGeorge Byron andKeats. Campbell Wordsworth. Coleridge, included; SirWalter Scott, writers oftheageand amongst thegreatest England”. Hisfriendswere and “Ye Marinersof “The BattleoftheBaltic” “Gertrude ofWyoming”, book, Frankenstein. famous gothichorror may haveinfluencedher audience andthisincident Mary Shelleywasinthe life. Legendhasitthat audience) tocomeback appeared (toahorrified was switchedonthebody when theGalvanicBattery placed inachairand Clydesdale’s corpsewas Matthew Clydesdale. body ofamurderer, experiment heusedthe Galvanic Battery. Forthe using thenewlyinvented through thehumanbody journey ofelectricity publicly demonstratedthe 1818 ProfessorJeffrey anatomical experiments.In was involvedinsensational Anatomy, theUniversity neighbouring Schoolsof the HighStreet*.Likeits of theoldUniversityon Albion Streettothegates College Streetledfrom come toCollegeStreet. down theHighStreetwe Travelling alittlefurther 7. Raisingthedead Mrs McAllister. those ofthedeceased, body partsfoundwere not beproventhatthe later releasedasitcould McAllister. All4were of thebodyMrs the feloniousabstraction 3 otherstoodtrialfor rooms. MrPattison and were foundinPattison’s Ramshorn Churchyard, the previousdayin to MrsMcAllister, buried finger, believedtobelong jaw boneandthering of Decemberwhenhalfa discovered onthe13th Their actionswere Granville SharpPattison. anatomy roomsofMr resurrections werethe form. Thefocusforthese anatomy ofthehuman their gravestostudythe would removebodiesfrom 1813 MedicalStudents B. 24CollegeStreet Gilmore Hill. it’s currentlocationin and afterthatdatemoved to Railway Companyin1864 to theCityofGlasgow Union *The Universitysoldthisland performed by St. Mungo, originated from amiracle popular beliefs isthatit ‘Ramshorn’. Oneofthe the originofname are manytheoriesbehind Ramshorn Church.There Theatre, formerlythe Strathclyde’s Ramshorn Street istheUniversityof and justbeyondAlbion left ontoIngramStreet From theHighStreet,turn 8. RamshornChurch

headline news. Culloden when itwas account ofthe Battleof Courant gaveafirsthand Glasgow Herald.The predecessor ofthe “Glasgow Courant”the responsible forthe As publisherstheywere the Universityin1743. appointed asprintersto of theFoulisBrothers, graveyard arethegraves outside theRamshorn Under thepavement Beneath thePavement A GraveSituation mark itsplot. ceremony orepitaphto was buriedwithout leg wasChristian,soit couldn’t besurethatthe at theleg,hesaidthat When theministerlooked the RamshornChurch. advise oftheministerat he thoughttoseekthe what todowiththeleg, the Candleriggs.Unsure gentleman wholivedon found inthegardenofa Ramshorn. Thelegwas buried somewhereinthe A legisbelievedtobe A ChristianLeg? a livingrobbinggraves. “Resurectionists” whomade popular hauntforthe to thechurchwasa The burialgroundattached into stoneonthisspot. who turnedaramshead

The BattleofCulloden Ramshorn Church Ramshorn Virginian slaves, 18th century City Halls Candleriggs Market

9. The Candleriggs By the end of the 18th Across the road from the C. 78-82 Candleriggs century, people were D. 4 Bell Street Ramshorn is the 1800, the Bowling Green beginning to see slavery as 1667, possibly the first Candleriggs. This historic could accessed through a a barbaric and evil practice Sugar Works in Scotland street extends from the lane on Bell Street with and some personal slaves was founded here by Trongate to the site of the an entry fee of one penny. in Britain gained their Peter Gemmell, Frederick old candle makers, hence The edges of The Green freedom. One such slave, Hamilton, John Caldwell the name. If you take a would often fill with Joseph Knight, appealed to and Robert Cummings walk down this pretty stagnant water in which the Sheriff Court in c.1820, previously 90 street, look at the the local children would Glasgow for his freedom. Bell Street called the pavement outside the City drown stray cats and The case finally ended at Herald Close. The second Halls, where you will find dogs. 1817, the Bazaar the Court of Session where floor was occupied by the a poem carved in the was constructed to the Joseph was declared a offices of the Glasgow paving slabs and a list of design of Clelland. 1851, freeman and his master, Herald and Advertiser. the fourteen Incorporated the Bazaar was occupied an early aboloshionist, told The paper cost sixpence a Trades of Glasgow. The City by 1 Cheesemonger, that he ..”Shall lose the copy. Glasgow’s second Halls line one side of the 8 Fruiterers, 9 vegetable property by the mere Police Office, overlooking street and is attached to dealers, 2 Onion circumstance of his bringing Candleriggs and the the old Candleriggs Market Merchants, 1 Gardner, the said Negro to Scotland.” Bowling Green occupied (now Merchant Square) 4 Egg and Butter the first floor. John and the Fruit Market. City Merchants, 6 Ham 10. First Take-away Gardner, Mathematical Halls were used as a venue Merchants, Candleriggs boasted Instrument Maker, for music, exhibitions and 3 Stocking Dealers, Glasgow’s first fast food Measurer and Optician entertainment. Amongst 1 Brush Maker, shop, Granny Black’s. The ran his shop from the the celebrities who have 3 Booksellers and 3 Boot proprietors realised that ground floor. appeared there are: and Shoe Manufactures. after a few drinks the Charles Dickens, Niccolo customers would have a Paganini, Oscar Wilde craving for greasy food, so (pictured below) and Slavery they started selling pies to E. City Halls Harriet Beecher Stowe. Records show that the carry out. Sadly Granny 1847, Charles Dickens payment for slaves go as Black’s ‘fell down’ a couple attends a ball at the City Harriet was in Glasgow to far back as the early 1500’s. of years ago. Halls opposite after his gain support for the opening speech at the abolition of slavery. The In the 1770’s a Mr. William Glasgow’s first restaurant new Athenaeum in people of Glasgow were so Colhoun wrote the was Sloan’s in the Argyll Ingram Street. He taken with her cause that following in a letter, Arcade. The menu offered commented that he had they began a campaign on “We shall sail tomorrow the discerning customer never been more heartily her behalf called “Uncle with a hundred and fifty sheep’s brains and pig’s received anywhere as he Tom’s Penny”, wherein a slaves for Potuchan River trotters. had been in Glasgow. penny would be donated in Virginia in a very fine 1858, Charles Dickens for every reading of the vessel which I am chief At the corner of returns to give 2 readings book “Uncle Tom’s Cabin”. mate of...it is a very Candleriggs, turn left into of his works, for which precious cargo as for me it Bell Street. he was reportedly paid is the first time... plenty of £600.00. 1882, Bell noise and stink.” It is Street numbering horrifying to think of all reversed to allow those people, crammed continuation of Bell together, many of whom Street beyond High died of suffocation and Street. disease.

Charles Dickens Bow’s, early 20th century The Tollbooth

*The last public hanging attracted an audience of over 100,000 people in 1865. They had come to watch Dr. Pritchard swing for the murder of his wife

The Tron by Peter Howson by Peter The Tron and mother-in-law. There are still men who believe it was a miscarriage of justice.

Until April 30th 1630 Crime, Punishment & hanging was used to F 2 Albion Street G. 37 Bell Street the Gallowgate punish minor crimes whilst Evidence of punishments murderers suffered 1855, the City of Glasgow 1820, Wallace Court, beheading. After this date Bank Building, designed home to the shop of meted out at the Cross are still visible on the walls of hanging was introduced by JT Rochead, who also John Graham, Wine and for murderers too. designed the Wallace Spirit Merchant who was the Tollbooth Steeple, where metal rings survive Between 1765 and 1850, Monument in Stirling. charged 3 guineas as libel 107 people were executed 1878, the Bank fails damages against a fellow to remind us that people were chained to the wall in the city, of which only spectacularly with debts and his lady friend for 27 were murderers. of £6m due to fraud, accusing them of stealing here as a punishment. Another reminder of this embezzlement, and false 2 bottles of Port. 1900, The first Glasgow Police book-keeping. The Bank shop and office of William area’s grim past is the name Gallowgate, a street force was instituted in was not a Limited McEwan and Company, 1778 with the appointment Company and thousands Tobacco and Snuff east of the Tollbooth, which means the way to of an inspector who was of Glaswegians were left Manufacturers. 1921, paid £100 a year. penniless. Of almost 2000 office of James Robb, the gallows. shareholders, only 250 Agent to the Glasgow were not bankrupted. and South Western The punishment of criminals Railway Company. was a great source of public entertainment. It was once recorded in the 11. First Electric Sign Burgh records that the On the corner of High H. 105 -153 Bell practice of lug-pinning Street and Bell Street was Street (nailing a criminals ear to Bow’s of Bell Street (now 1882, built for the the Tollbooth door - as Bed Shed), the first shop to Glasgow and South illustrated above) must be have an electric sign. A year Western Railway Company banned because it later they were the first as the main storage “corrupted community life, shop to receive electricity warehouse for the weavers will leave their which was supplied to recently constructed looms and children play The Execution of a Bear Glasgow in 1890. College Goods Yard, the truant” in order to jeer-on In June 1880, a bear creation of which caused the lug-pinned victim. belonging to the visiting From the end of Bell Street, the removal of the performer, Antonio Delore, turn right, back onto High Medieval Blackfriars Opposite the Tollbooth is was arrested and placed Street and head down to Church (also known as the Third Step Gallery on trial for harassing a the Cross. Bell Street the College Church) and which showcases the work Bailie whilst he was going continues east of the High the 15th Century of world renowned artist about the city for the Street where these Plaques buildings of Glasgow Peter Howson and his arts “Guid” of the people. The can be found: University.c. 1986, the collective of which many of bear was sentenced to warehouse was converted his pictures are shown here. death by musket and into apartments. Antonio was forced to sit Nothing was more well in the stocks with the skin attended than a good of his beloved bear around 12. The Tollbooth execution*, but for all that his shoulders. It made such it was the most popular a pitiful scene that not The High Street ends at amusement, the purveyor one Glaswegian had the Glasgow Cross where the of justice himself was the heart to demonstrate their 17th century Tollbooth city’s most vilified pariah. approval with the usual stands on an island in the When the job was jeers and rotten fruit. middle of the traffic. The advertised in 1605, no-one Tollbooth Steeple is all that would take the position, so Continuing the line of the survives of a much larger the post was offered to a High Street from the Cross building that once housed prisoner, John McClelland, to the Clyde is Saltmarket. the early City Chambers, in exchange for his life. courts and prison. Saltmarket, 1930s Glasgow Green Market, 1870s The Steamie Lord Horatio Nelson

Britannia Music Hall

13. Filth & ‘Nestiness’ filthiness of the place at Entertainment conductors for the tall (nastiness) on the present, doe therefore The annual fair on buildings of the city. statute and ordain as Glasgow Green attracted Saltmarket follows; Imprimis, that no travelling troupes and The first lightning There were no sewers master or mistress or local talent who would conductor had been before 1790. Instead, the heads of families or their entertain the crowds. erected on the old waste would be thrown children or servants or Some entertainers would University Steeple on the out of people’s window’s others lodging or residing erect temporary theatres High Street under the and left to flow down hill in their families shall at called ‘Geggies’. These direction of Benjamin to the lowest part of the any time heiraftir cast out Geggies would present all Franklin in 1772 city where it would collect at their windows, aither manner of entertainment, and form dung hills or upon fore or back street or but melodrama’s and Steam ‘middens’. The midden of in lanes or closes, any Shakespearean death James Watt once wrote: Glasgow was located in excrement, dirt or urine, or scenes seemed to be the “I had entered the Green the Saltmarket and was other filth or water, foul or most popular! by the gate at the foot of recorded on one occasion clean, under the pain of Charlotte Street and had to have grown to 15 feet fyve merks Scots money... Sport passed the old washing in height and so wide it Glasgow Green is the house. I was thinking upon blocked the street of To get away from all this original home of both the engine* at the time traffic. This mountain of filth, many people would Rangers (1873) and Celtic and had gone as far as the effluent caused the city to take the fresh airs available (1888) football clubs, herd’s house when the be fined for ‘not attending at Glasgow Green, the Glasgow golf club was idea came into my mind to it’s middens’. It is main gates of which are founded here in the 18th that, as steam was an believed that the midden on the Saltmarket. century and whilst the elastic body, it would rush was sold at auction to wealthy putted the washer into a vacuum and, if a settle the debt, perhaps 14. Glasgow Green women gossiped in the communication were made prompting the magistrates ‘steamie’ and pegged their between the cylinder and and town council to pass a Glasgow Green is known as the site of a thousand linens out on the public an exhausted vessel, it statute against ‘nestiness’. washing lines. would rush into it and battles. These battles were might be condensed Extract from the Burgh Records fought by the people. without cooling the 16th January 1696 The battle for “one man cylinder... I had not walked one vote”, “one woman further than the golf house The magistrates and town one vote”, “a fair days when the whole thing was council, taking to pay for a fair days work”, arranged in my mind.” consideration the many campaigns against poverty complaints made by the and the demon drink. *Thomas Newcommen’s inhabitants of this burgh The Green was also the Industrial Steam engine of the growing and site of the annual fair, Nelson’s Monument abounding nestiness and festivals, entertainments The foundation stone for 15. The Whistling and sport. In short, this Nelson’s Monument was Kirk ancient park is the heart laid on Friday 1st August and soul of the social 1806. The needle-like On the North side of history of Glasgow, a fact monument cost £2075 to Glasgow Green is a lovely that is commemorated by erect. Tragedy struck the little Episcopalian church huge column in August (now offices). Originally the People’s Palace and known as St. Andrews by Winter Gardens 1810 when, during a ferocious thunderstorm, a the Green, this was the bolt of lightening struck first church in Glasgow to (Glasgow Green open dawn till use an organ since the dusk; People’s palace and the monument and the top 20ft of masonry collapsed. Reformation and has been Winter gardens open Mon-Thur nicknamed the ‘Whistling & Sat 10-5pm, Fri & Sun Kirk’ or ‘Kist of Whistles’ 11-5pm ). This storm highlighted the need for lightning since. St. Andrews Square Trongate, 1826, by John Knox Behind King Street Bishop Boyd harangued Cromwell soundly from the pulpit. Boyd’s hatred of Cromwell incensed Cromwell’s secretary who suggested beheading the Bishop might cure his rudeness. Cromwell declined and instead invited the Bishop to dinner. 16. St. Andrew’s 17. Paddy’s Market They entered the session Square Although these old markets house where an open fire are long since gone, blazed. The gentlemen Around the corner from began to boast on how St. Andrews by the Green Paddy’s Market (founded in the first half of the 19th hot they could take the is St. Andrews Square, a fires of hell. To prove their spectacular classical century by Irish Immigrants) continues as Glasgow’s boast they built the fire up, church, St. Andrews in the fuelling it with benches, Square (recently converted only daily (except Sundays) Oliver flea market. The traders tables and whatever they into a venue for Scottish Cromwell could find, until the fire dance & music). Prior to sell their wares on the pavement and even though spilled out onto the the church being built, wooden floor and set the Vincent Lunardi amazed they had been offered J. 57 Parnie Street more salubrious premises whole building alight. an audience by inflating a The Hell-fire starters fled huge balloon in the square 1851, previously called 70 away from the street, the following week the traders the scene of their crime and flying over the city to Princes Street, it was the and left Glasgow, never finally land in Hawick in premises of Mrs Jarvis, a were back in the old lane with their wares laid out to return in fear of November 1785 (one of Leather Merchant. 1895, retribution. James Adam the first solo balloon the street was renamed in the traditional manner. Glasgow’s other surviving designed the current flights in history). and renumbered Parnie building soon after. Street, Mrs Jarvis’s Shop historic market is the From St. Andrews Sq, still operated from the Barras on London Road St. Andrews Street leads same premises. 1902, the and Gallowgate. west and back to the Shop of J Jarvis & Son, Saltmarket. On the north Leather Merchants and 18. Trongate east side of Saltmarket is Shoe Furnishers. King Street leads north Parnie Street, which takes from the Briggait to the the wanderer from Trongate. Facing east, Saltmarket to the New K. 83 King Street towards the Cross you can Wynd via King Street. 1821, King Street was the see the Tron Steeple, market place for sheep, which once housed the old cattle and fish with weighing machine. The I. 4 Parnie Street dozens of permanent Tron Steeple is attached 1650, from this point, stalls set up along its to the Tron Church, which you would have been able length. Fleshers who has now been converted to see Silvercraig’s land, worked in the King Street into a theatre, restaurant the country residence of Beef Market included: & bar. the Bishop. The Mansion Thomas Atkinson, Bearded Ladies, Basement sat opposite the mouth William Flemming, Hellfire zoos and the great escape of the Bridgegait. In this Thomas Fleming, George The original Tron Church of the Himalayan bear. year, Oliver Cromwell Fleming, Robert Gilmour was burnt down in Just west of King Street stayed in Silvercraig’s Jnr; William Kilpatrick February 1793 by a gang stands the oldest music land during his time in John Patrick; James of drunken gentlemen hall in the UK, the Scotland. 1756, one of Kilpatrick; Matthew known as the Hellfire Club. the first 2 front hat shops Kilpatrick; Robert in Glasgow was opened Kilpatrick; James Neilson; nearby by John Blair. Thomas Reid; John Scouller; John Sugar; Matthew Watson; James During Oliver Cromwell’s Watson; William Watson, visit to the area, he 86 King Street, Mutton attended a sermon at the Market, 108 King Street, Cathedral where the Fish Market. Hutcheson Hall John Glassford & Family Britannia Panopticon (113- 117 Trongate). Britannia Panopticon holds a veritable catalogue of bizarre and entertaining stories, from famous debuts like that of a sixteen year old Stan Laurel, to mermaids and Charlie ‘Bonnie’ Prince bearded ladies in the attic and a zoological collection crowd gathered to see this In 1910 the Pen & Pencil 21. The Greatest Love in the basement. latest oddity. One lady in Club mounted the first Story Never Told the crowd, however, was plaque announcing that The basement zoo was unaware of the nature of this was where Prince named Noah’s Ark and the performers she was Charles Edward Stewart amongst the exhibits about to see. When she stayed when he was in paced a Himalayan Bear. entered the Inn, she saw a Glasgow. Although his stay In 1911 the bear escaped table which had upon it a was brief, it was enough onto the Trongate where it number of miniature items time for him to fall for the terrorised the populace including a small carriage, charms of Clemintina until it was shot by it’s which appeared to be Walkinshaw, the daughter owner, A. E. Pickard. pulled by a flea. In her of a wealthy merchant. dismay, the lady crushed Clementina later joined the parasite with her Charles in exile and L. 159 Trongate thumbnail. Mr. Boverick, together they had a In 1824, the Glasgow the owner of the flea daughter, Charlotte, who Coach Office of Messrs accused the woman of was endowed with the On the corner of Glassford Lyon & Fraser Coaches, murdering the animal and title Duchess of Albany. Street and Argyle Street, they operated a service demanded justice. The stands Marks & Spencers from Paisley to Glasgow case, surprisingly, doesn’t on the site of the Black through Renfrew leaving appear to have made it N. 2 Glassford Street Bull Inn. The Black Bull is Glasgow at 12 noon, 3, to court. 1711, site of Shawfield where Robert Burns stayed half past 3, 5, 6, 7 and Mansion built by Daniel when he wrote to his lover, half past 8. Campbell of Shawfield. Agnes Mclehose. Because 1725, following his vote Agnes was a married lady, for an extension of Malt they feared their affair Lang Tam, a wandering Tax to Scotland, a mob would be discovered, so to imbecile beggar, would descended on his house conceal their identities often wait for the coach on the 24th of June and they signed the letters to leave its Glasgow virtually demolished it. “Sylvander” and “Clarinda”. terminus and then set out The following day, walking for Paisley. He M. 26 Hutcheson 2 companies of foot Before she died, Agnes would generally be waiting Street soldiers entered the City wrote in her journal: for the coach to arrive and in the ensuing riots, “I parted with Burns in the 1835, Jamie Begg’s was year 1791, never more to where he would receive the leading Tavern of the 7 were killed and 17 congratulations and were injured. Campbell meet in this world, may period. The Proprietor we meet in heaven.” coppers from the was Alex Miller. Men of received £9,000 damages passengers. Tam was also substance went there at with which he bought known to run alongside the Islands of Isla and This affair inspired Burns night to discuss the to write one of the most the coaches of the topics of the day, or Jura. 1745, Bonnie Prince wealthy, patting the front Charlie stayed from the romantic poems in Scottish special subjects, as well literature ‘Ae Fond Kiss. wheel and saying ‘guid as ‘Welsh Rabbits, Finnan 26th December till 3rd of wee wheel, guid wee Haddies and Rationals’. January, where he fell in wheel, big wheel canny love with Clementiana The Burns Club catch up on ye’. Walkinshaw. They later commemorated Burns stay at the Black Bull Inn with 20. Love at first sight married in France. 1793, the House was removed a plaque at the corner of 19. The Case of the Argyle Street and Virgina Murdered Flea The Trongate ends at for the creation of Great Glassford Street and on the Glassford Street which Street. The Masons’ Arms (which corner you will find two continued the axis of once stood on the plaques commemorating a Stockwell Street. The Pen & Pencil Club was one of Trongate) advertised building that once stood many clubs in Glasgow. Others ‘S. Boverick and his on this site, the Shawfield were: The Hodge Podge Club, The Miniature Circus’. A huge Mansion. Hellfire Club, The Face Club, 42 Miller Street P. 191 Ingram Street Site of Virginia Mansions, built in the early 1700’s by George Buchanan. It was then taken over by his son, Andrew (after whom Buchanan Street is

Trades Hall Trades named), prior to residence by Colin Dunlop of Carmyle in 1796. 1842, The Grog Club, The Pig Club, 22. Trades Hall Dunlop’s Mansion The Beefsteak or Tinkers’ Club, On Glassford Street is removed to make way for R. 7 Miller Street The What You Please Club, The the Union Bank Buildings. 1840, Tobacconist’s Sma’ Weft Club Trades Hall, the last building to be designed by 1876, the Ingram Street Shop, owner George Façade was replaced and Another Burns plaque Robert Adam. The Trades Baird. 1861, Workshop Hall was built to face the extended with 2 pairs of and Warehouse of T & J can be found in Virginia statues added to flank the Street, which runs along Merchants House which Stewart and Company, once stood at the top of existing 6, all by Glasgow Rope and Sail the west side of Marks & Sculptor John Mossman. Spencer on Argyle Street. Garth Street (and now Manufacturers. 1880, 5, stands on George Square). From left to right, the 7 and 9 Miller Street, Trades Hall was built for Statues represent Robert W Cairns Outlet, It is recorded that Burns navigation and commerce, bought 15 yards of black the 14 Incorporated Trades Wine and Spirit of Glasgow and is open to Britannia, Wealth, Merchants. 1961, 5 - 15 silk from John McIndoe, Justice, Peace, Industry, Silk Merchant, of Horns the public. Miller Street, R W Cairns Glasgow and Mechanics Ltd, Wine Merchants. Land off Virginia Street to and Agriculture. The give to Jean Armour for 23. Rab Ha - Scottish place names in her wedding dress. The Glasgow Glutton each of the window ‘Rab Ha’ or Robert Hall arches are the places was best known as the where the Union Bank O. 2 Argyle Street ‘Glesga Glutton’ he was had its main office. 30th October 1821, forced from his home by Donald Davidson, a his mother who could no discharged Sergeant of longer afford to feed him Q. 48 Miller Street and made his living by the Rifle Brigade who 1820, Offices of J & A had lost his left arm at winning eating competitions. He gained Sandeman, Sugar Brokers; the siege of Badajos William Connal and under Wellington, his reputation by beating English glutton of great Company, Brokers; The ‘Smoke’ Room fraudulently wrote a note Grierson Lockhart and for £90 while acting as renown, the ‘Yorkshire Pudding’, in a pie eating Company; Manufacturers; Sir Thomas Maitland, an R Anderson, Commission Admiral of the Royal contest at the Saracen’s S. 194 Ingram Street Head Inn. The spirit of Merchant. 1860, home to Navy. He withdrew his Stirling’s Library, Librarian 1796, the Assembly money from the Cashier ‘Rab Ha’ is celebrated at a restaurant on the corner of Thomas Mason. 1920, Rooms, opened at a cost of the Ship Bank, Mr Offices and Works of of £4,800. The Robert Michael Rowand. After Hutcheson Street and Garth Street. Sands and Graham Ltd, Adam Building was noticing several spelling Button Manufacturers funded by a subscription mistakes on the note, and Factors, makers of of £20 shares. 1847, it Davidson was later 24. Ingram Street Leader and Gem Buttons became the Athenaeum, caught while making his Ingram Street travels from and covering machines. opened by Charles way north on the the High Street to Queen 1977, Wholesale Dickens. 1889, the Caledonian Canal. 1822, Street, the western Warehouse of William building was removed to Davidson stood trial in boundary of the Merchant McReadie. Miller Street is make way for the Post April, was found guilty City. On the way to Queen named after Robert Office Buildings, the and sentenced to Street we pass Virginia Miller, Maltman, who in centrepiece being execution for fraud on Street, named after the the 1760’s, built 24 re-erected as the 29 May 1822. Following Virginian tobacco identical mansions on his MacLennan Arch on the actions of Michael plantations. Beyond that is lands, 12 on either side Glasgow Green. 2002, Rowand, Davidson Miller Street where a of the street. Number 42 the building is converted received a respite from couple of buildings survive remains with the date to apartments and King George III and the to remind us of the area’s 1775 on its Apex. offices. sentence was commuted busy mercantile past. to transportation for life. Royal Exchange Square c.1880 office development. make wayforthepresent bank wasdemolishedto David Hamilton.1969,the Linen Bank,asdesignedby make wayfortheBritish Church wereremovedto the neighbouringGaelic Both Angus’Schooland house of2storeys.1839, dark, self-contained The buildingwasalittle school fromthisaddress. of schoolbooksranhis the authorofanumber 1818, MrWilliamAngus, U. 224IngramStreet Ingram Street. 209 - address, then205 operated fromthis Cooper’s Tea Room Miss Drummond.1940, The proprietresswas 205 -217 IngramStreet. Rooms stretchedfrom 1900. 1920,theTea Mackintosh camein commissioning ofCR address. Thefamous and operatedatthis second Tea Roomopened 1886, MissCranton’s T. 205IngramStreet at thefrontdoor. Ingram Streetwouldend house wasbuiltsothat Lords mansionhouse.The built originallyasaTobacco (situated onQueenStreet), Gallery ofModernArt Street canbeseenthe At theendofIngram 25. GOMA but returned in 2002. moves toMiller Street Glasgow...). 1994Library citizens andinhabitantsof Public Libraryforthe constant existenceofa for theupkeepand 804 booksand£1,000 died in1791, leaving Humphry Stirlingwho (named afterWalter the StirlingsLibrary £105,000 asahomefor from Shareholdersfor buys theExchangeback basement. 1949Council restaurant inthe Cranston opensa Exchange. 1915 Stuart Company setupin 1880 EdisonTelephone being addedtotheeast. the westwithPortico building wasextendedto new exchange.The Committee forforminga 1827 soldtothe floor theentrancelevel. the eastmakingfirst ornamental staircaseon building andaddedan Scotland boughtthe 1817 theRoyalBankof on the3rdofNovember. William StirlingandSons into thepossessionof whole buildingpassed America. 1789,the Tobacco Trade with Colonial Wars) ofthe expansion (afterthe lost hisfortunewiththe Merchant whomadeand Cunninghame wasa reputed costof£10,000. was constructedata Glasgow’s 4youngmen, Lainshaw. Oneof William Cunninghameof 1778, theTown Houseof V. GOMA Street isanotherplaqueat: Furher uptowardsArgyle Cowcaddens. known todayas to thegrazingland, Cow Loanontheirway Trongate andturnup drive thecattlealong Town Herdsmenwould as theCowLoan.The Queen Streetwasknown meal. Priorto1766, paid attheendof what youhadeatenand wherein youdeclared system ofpayment, It operatedanhonour of itskindinGlasgow. Restaurant wasthefirst this Self-Service Street. 1962,Lang’s Ltd, operated from79Queen selling winesandspirits surviving. Asecondshop art decofrontagestill Shop. It’s stylish1930’s Lang’s Confectionary Wine Merchant.1920, Confectioner, Tea and William Lang, 1851, theshopof W. 73QueenStreet Bullion Merchants. Werner, Jewelleryand Bullion Company and offices’ oftheStandard the firstfloor. 1962, Papermakers. Theyoccupy and AlexPirie(Sales)Ltd, office ofWiggins, Teape 50QueenStreet, - 46 and refiners.1941, McNair, Sugar Merchants of Robert&James 1802, officeandworks X. 48QueenStreet. Winston Churchill involved inWWII. would becomedirectly agreement thattheUSA which resultedinthe two men,inthehotel, meeting betweenthese commemorate thefamous President Roosevelt) and SpecialAdvisorto Secretary ofCommerce (Hopkins wasthe suite andHopkinsSuite 1807-18). TheChurchill Georgian Terraces (built that remainsofthe the MillenniumHotel,all square isdominatedby The northsideofthe 1783). the World (foundedin Chamber ofCommercein the hometooldest of GeorgeSquareandis on thenorthwestcorner Merchants Housestands 26. GeorgeSq residential square. originally laidoutasa you toGeorgeSquare, Street, ashortwalkbrings Turning rightontoQueen City Chambers in Britain. of thefinestcivicbuildings Chambers, regardedasone the magnificentCity east sideofthesquareis Encompassing theentire 27. CityChambers AA. 31 John Street Acknowledgements: 1812, Workshop of James Design by Cactus www.cactushq.com Bogie, Tallow Chandler. Text by Judith Bowers, Britannia Music Hall Trust. 1851, office and shop of www.britanniapanopticon.com tel: 0141 553 0840 Robert Oliphant, Printer and Stationery. 1883, Also, thanks to Ross Hunter and John Martina removed for development Graven Images; Peter Howson and John Mullin; of City Chambers to the Third Step; Steve Hosie and Jane Baker DRS The Last Supper by Peter Howson The Last Supper by Peter designs of William Glasgow City Council; Barbara Keenan CLS Young. Glasgow City Council. Y. 107 George Street Images: 1835, William 29. Hutcheson’s ©2005 Glasgow City Council (Museums) Motherwell, Poet, died of Hospital ©2005 Glasgow City Council (Achives and Special Apoplexy. Found dead on Collections) a Sunday morning, the On the corner of John ©2005 Glasgow City Council (Development & previous afternoon. He Street and Ingram Street Regeneration Services) had been one of a gay is Hutcheson’s Hospital, © The Third Step Gallery party and apparently, in founded in 1639 by two the enjoyment of perfect philanthropic brothers to health. give shelter to the destitute men of Glasgow.

Z. 151 George Street 30. The Star Inn c.1820, formerly 183, the Just beyond Hutcheson’s house of Stephen Miller, Hospital is all that survives who was the wonderful of the old “Star Inn”, wean of the Poem of that which was licensed to Henry Hemmings. The name, by his father, www.glasgowmerchantcity.net William Miller, author of Glasgow character Blind the famous Wee Willie Alick once wrote of this Winkie. 1851, House of establishment, “And first Thomas Wylde of the they gave me brandy, and manufacturing firm Roger then they gave me gin, Wylde and Son. 1957, here’s long life to the John Player and one office worthy waiters of Mr development for their Hemmings’ Hotel and Inn.” branch of the Imperial Tobacco Company. And so dear reader, that brings us to the end, so here’s long life 28. John Street to you, or as they say in Glasgow, “Lang John Street takes us may your Lum reek”. through the middle of the Translation “Long City Chambers and back to may you have enough Ingram Street. John Street derives it’s name from money to pay for coal the number of Georgian for your fire”. notables who had the Christian name John.

The John’s of John Street