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INDIA A JOURNEY THROUGHHINDUSTAN Conducted BJ JAMES RICALTON , Author of "ChinaThrough the Stereoscope" Stemgmphs ma& fy the anthof . UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD NEW YORK AND LONDON I , CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION...................................... 9 INSTI~UCTIONS..................................... 14 . POSITIONSIN INDIA I Over University and Secretariat ‘(square tower), l south from Rajabai Tower, Bombay.. .......... 18 I The most magnificent rqilway station in the world, Bombay. .................................... II 3 Parsis worshi pin the newmoon-view east to B. COPYRIGET B. & C. I. gy. juilding, Bombay.. ............ 26 BY UNDERWOOD (It UNDERWOOD, NEW YORKAND LONDON 4 Tower of Silence, where vultures devour the Parsi dead, Malabar Hill (northeast) Bombay.. ....... (ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL) 30 5 Hindu burning place, south from near Malabar Hill qemating the dead-Bombay ............... All stereographs copyrighted 33 I 6 Drunken dance of the eight-armed divinity, -Shiva (W.),rock-hewn temple, Elephanta. ........... 37 MAP SYSTEM Patented in the United States. August 21,19cso 7 One of the world’smarvels-beautiful Dravadian . Patented in Great Britain. March 22.1900 temple cut in solid rock (S. E.), Ellora .......... 40 Patented in France, March 28.1900. S.G.D.G. Switzerland, Patent 21,211 8 ‘‘There is no God but God, and Mahomet is His Prophet ”-prayers in mosque, Ahmedabad.. ... 43 Alt rights reserved 9 Primitive native life of India-Hindu women grind- ing at the mills, Mt. Abu.. .................... 46 PRINTEDIN THE UNITEDSTATW IO . Hennit at Gem Lake, -doing penance, exposed to midday sun and intense fires. Mt. Abu. ...... II Dilwarra, the noted Jaina Temples, on the almost inaccessible Mt. Abu. ........................ i 12 Worship rs before an image inthe exquisitely I‘ CarvZTemple of Vimala Sah, Mount Abu. ..... I’ 13 India of to-momw-handsome schoolbo S ofAm- ! ritsar, at theGolden Temple besidethe Holy Tank 14 Fakirs at Amritsar, richest city of the Pun’ab- south across Sacred Tank to Golden Tempfe.. .. 15 Looking S. W. down street of oriental shops and homesr Lahore. ............................ 16 Rival ,pot-sellers in thechatty market, Lahore; bargains for thrifty housewives.. .............. i 4 CONTENTS CONTENTS , 5’ PAGE 17 Leisure and gossip by the old Zameamah y,that PAGE roared in India’s wars 400 years ago, La ore. ... 70 IO-woman team Qn Darjeeling highway (north) ’ 130 . 18 Crossing the boiling floods of Jhelum River by a Bhutanese milkman with curious bamboo-jars, at the public water fountain, Darjeeling. .......... 132 bridge of one ,raw-hide rope, at Uri. ........... 73 rg Wayfarers on a straight 30-mile roadlined with Up to the everlasting snows of Mt. Kinchinjanga (28156 ft.), 45 m. north from Darjeeling. ....... I35 stately poplars, Baramula to Cashmere. ........ 77 20 An earthly paradise-theworld-famous Vale of Clean and airy Chowringhee Road (Eeplanade at Cashmere, watered by the winding Jhelum.. .... 79 left), looking north over Calcutta. .............. 139 a I T? land of L& Rookh-westward from the Welcome fellows in thirst India-bheestis (water- Throne of Solomon”-Srinagar, Cashmere. .... 8a camere) with their leatier bottles; Calcutta.. ... 14s a2 Everyday life in the Valeof Cashmere“. W. to Bathing at a ghat on the Ganges near Howrah quaint bridge and housks in the City of the Sun. 88 Bridge, Calcutta. ......: ...................... I45 a3 Shellingrice and gossiping with the neighbors- Street showmen exhibiting superbly handsome home life of contented utizens of Cashmere.. snakes before an admiring crowd ; Calcutta.. .... 147 .... 90 24 Delights of summer in theVale of Cashmere-music Looking northwest across tree-shaded Dalhousie Sq. I for a houseboat party of Jhelum River.. ........ 92, and its charming little lake to P. O., Calcutta. ... 153 25 Humble shawl-weavers at Cashmere How Hindu cows d’oy life in Calcutta-sidewalk creating wonderful harmonies of line ancf?:l%!Y 94 scene on Hamson ktreet. looking west.. ........ I55 26 ChildFen playing “ Hop Scotch ” in Srinagar, Cash- Hindu Goddess Kali theTemble, who demands bloody sacrifice-idol in street, Calcutta. ........ 1 58 mere ....................................... 97 27 Oriental hospitality-state barges of the Maharajah Seven oats slain, but Kali wants more-homd conveying ~ests,Srinagar. ................... 98 sacriice to the Hindu goddess-calcutta.. ...... 161 28 A hill-country “Ekka” with assenger and baggage Hindu devotee doinpênance on a bed of spikes coming from Cashmere to Lree, 155 miles.. ... 100 near the shrine of kali, Calcutta. ........... .. 164 aoo 29 Simla, the beautiful Himalayan mountain resort, Famous “man-eater” atCalcutta4evoured from the highway to Kalka.. men, women and children before he was captured 166 .................. =O3 30 BeforeChrist Church, at Simla, India’s charming Jain Temple, the richest place.of worshipin Calcutta I 70 “Summer Capital” in the Himalayan mountains. 109 Among the aerial roots of a singlebanyan tree 1,000 31 Native stores and traders, northwest alonlower feet in circumference; Calcutta. ............... 174 Bazaar, Simla, the “ Summer Capital” of fndia. I I 2 Grasses at whose feetmen are like insects--enormous 32 South front ofViceregal Lodge, palace of the bamboos in Botanical Gardens, Calcutta.. ...... 1 76 Viceroy, at Simla, the summer capta1 of India. I 16 H. H. the Maharaja of Tagore in Durbrrr costume, 33 Jutogh, a military station, west northwest from with jewels worth $~oo,ooo, in his palace, Cal- Prospect HilI, Simla. .......................... 117 cutta ....................................... 180 34 Charming Naldera, the favorite retreat of Lords A burning ghat on the Ganges, at Benares. ....... 182 Lytton and Curzon-south southwest toward Simla Who dies in thwaters of the Gan es obtains Heaven ....................................... 120 -bathing and burning Hindu sead at Benares. 188 35 Inflating bullock-skin boats for crossing the swift .. Himalayan river Sutlej. ...................... Hindu pilgrims bathing in sad well of their god 123 Vishnu-north bank Ganges, Benares. 191 36 Native “Bhuji” girlson the rocky banks of the of ....... Himalayan mountain river Sutlej. ............. 126 Suttee pillar at a Benares burnin ghat, where 37 Nepalese porter-girls who carry luggage many miles Hindu widows died on their hus%and’s fund 194 for two-pence;-Darjeeling. ................... pyres ....................................... 127 Dabee Chowdray Palwan at Benares, vegetarian Of forty-six years, lifting a 960-lb. weight.. ........ 000 7 6 CONTENTS CONTENTS PAGE F PAGE 60 Peacefulnow, but stained with horriblememories 80 Marvels of richness and grandeur-the great Durbar -north at Massacre Ghat on the Ganges, Cawn- processioa, Delhi. ............................ 164 ............................................ 204 81 The fabulous wealth of India-native princes in 61 Memorial at Cawn re to British women and chil- the grand state entry, Durbar, Delhi. ......... a68 dren massacred Nana Sahib, 185 7. g"y .......... 207 62 Industrious dhobies (washermen) at work in 81 Kutb Minar,from northeast-Moslem Tower of river, west from Lucknow.. ................... Victory near Delhi, 240 ft. high, base 47 ft. *-I 209 dianleier.. ................................... z7y 63 Baillie Gate from east, tom by mutineers' guns during siege; where rescuers entered Lucknow.. 212 ...................................... 64 Lucknow'smemorial to Sir Henry Lawrence and Delhi.- ~~ hemes who died in 1857 (view northwest). ...... 214 84 One of the loveliest spots in India-kiosk-bord& 65 Camel drivers waiting at southeast side of gateway tank at Ulwar by stately tomb of royalty. ..... a 77 to thefamous Taj Mahal, Agra. ............... 217 85 How beautytakes the air-Indian " red" M 66 A marvel of beauty-looking north to Taj Mahal, bullock-camage- used by ladies of rank;' Ulwar . 979 marble tomb of a Mogul Queen ; Agra. ......... 219 86 North from Sanganir Gate, up Jauhri B-, a 67 Most beautiful marble screen in the world, around typical business street in praspemus Jeypore.. 281 imperial sarcophagi, Taj Mahal, Agra. .......... 2 26 87 The Palace of the Winds, Jeypore, India, beautiful . 68 A lovelyscene of Indian romance and tragedy, as a shell with pink and cream-colored stucco. 284 northwest from Taj Mahal upthe Jumna to Agra ....................................... 88 A mast 'ece of oriental rnagnificentx-place a86 229 of thexharaja of Jeypore ......... 69 Marvelously inlaid gateway to tomb of Akbar, Mogul emperor of 16th century, Sikandarah.. ... 232 89 Sacred monkeys at Galta near Jeypore, India, fas- cinating- even to tho= not inclined to worship. 288 70 Tomb of Akbar, Mogul emperor 300 years ago, marble lattice in upper story; Sikandarah.. ..... 233 go Thecient Scene city ofof Amberdead splendors-looking to mountain fortress across ....... an- 292 71 ' Akbar's tomb, Sikandarah. (Kohinoorwas once 91 Relics of a romantic -Tawer of Victory (15th set in pillar beyond kneeling man.). ............ ........ 295 236 century) androya F . cemotaphs, Chitor.. 72 Celebrated Man Singhpalace, Gwalior, covered g1 A fascinatinfor its em%roideries, glimpse ofenamels Hyderabad, lacquers..India, famous with carvings and enameled tiles. .............. 238 and .... 298 73 Great Durbar Hall in palace of H. H. the Maharaja 93 Substantial elegance of modern Madras-impoging of Gwalior, one of India's richest princes. ....... 242 Law Court Buildings-view southwest from 74 H. H. the Maharaja of Gwalior at horne-one of the richest men in