INDIA

A JOURNEY THROUGHHINDUSTAN Conducted BJ

JAMES RICALTON , Author of "ChinaThrough the Stereoscope" Stemgmphs ma& fy the anthof

.

UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD NEW YORK AND LONDON I

, CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION...... 9 INSTI~UCTIONS...... 14

. POSITIONSIN INDIA I Over University and Secretariat ‘(square tower),

l south from Rajabai Tower, Bombay...... 18 I The most magnificent rqilway station in the world, Bombay...... II 3 Parsis worshi pin the newmoon-view east to B. COPYRIGET B. & C. I. gy. juilding, Bombay...... 26 BY UNDERWOOD (It UNDERWOOD, NEW YORKAND LONDON 4 Tower of Silence, where vultures devour the Parsi dead, Malabar Hill (northeast) Bombay...... (ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL) 30 5 Hindu burning place, south from near Malabar Hill qemating the dead-Bombay ...... All stereographs copyrighted 33 I 6 Drunken dance of the eight-armed divinity, -Shiva (W.),rock-hewn temple, Elephanta...... 37 MAP SYSTEM Patented in the United States. August 21,19cso 7 One of the world’smarvels-beautiful Dravadian . Patented in Great Britain. March 22.1900 temple cut in solid rock (S. E.), Ellora ...... 40 Patented in France, March 28.1900. S.G.D.G. Switzerland, Patent 21,211 8 ‘‘There is no God but God, and Mahomet is His Prophet ”-prayers in mosque, Ahmedabad.. ... 43 Alt rights reserved 9 Primitive native life of India-Hindu women grind- ing at the mills, Mt. Abu...... 46 PRINTEDIN THE UNITEDSTATW IO . Hennit at Gem Lake, -doing penance, exposed to midday sun and intense fires. Mt. Abu...... II Dilwarra, the noted Jaina Temples, on the almost inaccessible Mt. Abu...... i 12 Worship rs before an image inthe exquisitely I‘ CarvZTemple of Vimala Sah, Mount Abu...... I’ 13 India of to-momw-handsome schoolbo S ofAm- ! ritsar, at theGolden Temple besidethe Holy Tank 14 Fakirs at Amritsar, richest city of the Pun’ab- south across Sacred Tank to Golden Tempfe.. .. 15 Looking S. W. down street of oriental shops and homesr Lahore...... 16 Rival ,pot-sellers in thechatty market, Lahore; bargains for thrifty housewives...... i 4 CONTENTS CONTENTS , 5’ PAGE 17 Leisure and gossip by the old Zameamah y,that PAGE roared in India’s wars 400 years ago, La ore. ... 70 IO-woman team Qn Darjeeling highway (north) ’ 130 . 18 Crossing the boiling floods of Jhelum River by a Bhutanese milkman with curious bamboo-jars, at the public water fountain, Darjeeling...... 132 bridge of one ,raw-hide rope, at Uri...... 73 rg Wayfarers on a straight 30-mile roadlined with Up to the everlasting snows of Mt. Kinchinjanga (28156 ft.), 45 m. north from Darjeeling...... I35 stately poplars, Baramula to Cashmere...... 77 20 An earthly paradise-theworld-famous Vale of Clean and airy Chowringhee Road (Eeplanade at Cashmere, watered by the winding Jhelum...... 79 left), looking north over Calcutta...... 139 a I T? land of L& Rookh-westward from the Welcome fellows in thirst India-bheestis (water- Throne of Solomon”-Srinagar,Cashmere. .... 8a camere) with their leatier bottles; Calcutta.. ... 14s a2 Everyday life in the Valeof Cashmere“. W. to Bathing at a ghat on the Ganges near Howrah quaint bridge and housks in the City of the Sun. . 88 Bridge, Calcutta...... : ...... I45 a3 Shellingrice and gossiping with the neighbors- Street showmen exhibiting superbly handsome home life of contented utizens of Cashmere.. snakes before an admiring crowd ; Calcutta...... 147 .... 90 24 Delights of summer in theVale of Cashmere-music Looking northwest across tree-shaded Dalhousie Sq. I for a houseboat party of Jhelum River...... 92, and its charming little lake to P. O., Calcutta. ... 153 25 Humble shawl-weavers at Cashmere How Hindu cows d’oy life in Calcutta-sidewalk creating wonderful harmonies of line ancf?:l%!Y 94 scene on Hamson ktreet. looking west...... I55

26 ChildFen playing “ Hop Scotch ” in Srinagar, Cash- Hindu Goddess Kali theTemble, who demands bloody sacrifice-idol in street, Calcutta...... 1 58 mere ...... 97 27 Oriental hospitality-state barges of the Maharajah Seven oats slain, but Kali wants more-homd conveying ~ests,Srinagar...... 98 sacriice to the Hindu goddess-calcutta...... 161 28 A hill-country “Ekka” with assenger and baggage Hindu devotee doinpênance on a bed of spikes coming from Cashmere to Lree, 155 miles.. ... 100 near the shrine of kali, Calcutta...... 164 aoo 29 Simla, the beautiful Himalayan mountain resort, Famous “man-eater” atCalcutta4evoured from the highway to Kalka.. men, women and children before he was captured 166 ...... =O3 30 BeforeChrist Church, at Simla, India’s charming Jain Temple, the richest place.of worshipin Calcutta I 70 “Summer Capital” in the Himalayan mountains. . 109 Among the aerial roots of a singlebanyan tree 1,000 31 Native stores and traders, northwest alonlower feet in circumference; Calcutta...... 174 Bazaar, Simla, the “ Summer Capital” of fndia. . I I 2 Grasses at whose feetmen are like insects--enormous 32 South front ofViceregal Lodge, palace of the bamboos in Botanical Gardens, Calcutta...... 1 76 Viceroy, at Simla, the summer capta1 of India. . I 16 H. H. the Maharaja of Tagore in Durbrrr costume, 33 Jutogh, a military station, west northwest from with jewels worth $~oo,ooo, in his palace, Cal- Prospect HilI, Simla...... 117 cutta ...... 180 34 Charming Naldera, the favorite retreat of Lords A burning ghat on the Ganges, at Benares...... 182 Lytton and Curzon-south southwest toward Simla Who dies in thwaters of the Gan es obtains Heaven ...... 120 -bathing and burning Hindu sead at Benares. 188 35 Inflating bullock-skin boats for crossing the swift .. Himalayan river Sutlej...... Hindu pilgrims bathing in sad well of their god 123 Vishnu-north bank Ganges, Benares. 191 36 Native “Bhuji” girlson the rocky banks of the of ...... Himalayan mountain river Sutlej...... 126 Suttee pillar at a Benares burnin ghat, where 37 Nepalese porter-girls who carry luggage many miles Hindu widows died on their hus%and’s fund 194 for two-pence;-Darjeeling...... pyres ...... 127 Dabee Chowdray Palwan at Benares, vegetarian Of forty-six years, lifting a 960-lb. weight...... 000 7 6 CONTENTS CONTENTS PAGE F PAGE 60 Peacefulnow, but stained with horriblememories 80 Marvels of richness and grandeur-the great Durbar -north at Massacre Ghat on the Ganges, Cawn- processioa, Delhi...... 164 ...... 204 81 The fabulous wealth of India-native princes in 61 Memorial at Cawn re to British women and chil- the grand state entry, Durbar, Delhi...... a68 dren massacred Nana Sahib, 185 7. g"y ...... 207 62 Industrious dhobies (washermen) at work in 81 Kutb Minar,from northeast-Moslem Tower of river, west from Lucknow...... Victory near Delhi, 240 ft. high, base 47 ft. *-I 209 dianleier...... z7y 63 Baillie Gate from east, tom by mutineers' guns during siege; where rescuers entered Lucknow.. . 212 ...... 64 Lucknow'smemorial to Sir Henry Lawrence and Delhi.- ~~ hemes who died in 1857 (view northwest)...... 214 84 One of the loveliest spots in India-kiosk-bord& 65 Camel drivers waiting at southeast side of gateway tank at Ulwar by stately tomb of royalty...... a 77 to thefamous Taj Mahal, Agra...... 217 85 How beautytakes the air-Indian " red" M 66 A marvel of beauty-looking north to Taj Mahal, bullock-camage- used by ladies of rank;' Ulwar . 979 marble tomb of a Mogul Queen ; Agra...... 219 86 North from Sanganir Gate, up Jauhri B-, a 67 Most beautiful marble screen in the world, around typical business street in praspemus Jeypore.. . 281 imperial sarcophagi, Taj Mahal, Agra...... 2 26 87 The Palace of the Winds, Jeypore, India, beautiful . 68 A lovelyscene of Indian romance and tragedy, as a shell with pink and cream-colored stucco. 284 northwest from Taj Mahal upthe Jumna to Agra ...... 88 A mast 'ece of oriental rnagnificentx-place a86 229 of thexharaja of Jeypore ...... 69 Marvelously inlaid gateway to tomb of Akbar, Mogul emperor of 16th century, Sikandarah.. ... 232 89 Sacred monkeys at Galta near Jeypore, India, fas- cinating- even to tho= not inclined to worship. . 288 70 Tomb of Akbar, Mogul emperor 300 years ago, marble lattice in upper story; Sikandarah...... 233 go Thecient Scene city ofof Amberdead splendors-looking to mountain fortress across ...... an- 292 71 ' Akbar's tomb, Sikandarah. (Kohinoorwas once 91 Relics of a romantic -Tawer of Victory (15th set in pillar beyond kneeling man.)...... 295 236 century) androya F . cemotaphs, Chitor.. 72 Celebrated Man Singhpalace, Gwalior, covered g1 A fascinatinfor its em%roideries, glimpse ofenamels Hyderabad, lacquers..India, famous with carvings and enameled tiles...... 238 and .... 298 73 Great Durbar Hall in palace of H. H. the Maharaja 93 Substantial elegance of modern Madras-impoging of Gwalior, one of India's richest princes...... 242 Law Court Buildings-view southwest from 74 H. H. the Maharaja of Gwalior at horne-one of the richest men in the world...... 243 94 Guardian of Hindu mysteries-wuthwest to gate- 75 Curiously rigged camel-waons, east of largest way and sculptured temple tower, Tanjore 304 Mohammedan mosque in t%e world; Delhi...... 24 5 g5 A car of Jamath in which the Hindu god 76 Devout Mohammedans prostrate at prayer time- Krishna rig drawn by worshippers. Tanjore 307 Court of Jumma Musjld, India's greatest mosque, 96 Trichinopoly, India, where Lord Clive once lived- Del...... 24g northeast amss town to fortress and famous 77 Looking north from a minaret of the greatest mosque Rock...... 310 in the world over famous city of Delhi...... 251 78 The Cashmere Gate battered by shot ad shell, where the British entered (1857) ; Delhi...... worth dllións...... 3'4 -~ 79 Your money's worth juicy fruit, at a stand on of 98 Inconceivable elaboration and splendor of Madura's Chandni Chouk (Silver Street), Delhi...... 262 Hindu teniple-two of its nine pagodas...... 316 8 CONTENTS

PAGE gg Grotesque fancy and atient skill of Hindu sculp- INTRODUCTION . tors-pillars of the !&mple, Madura...... 320 IOO Corn'dor 700 ft. long, splendid granite Temple of Ramisseram, Paumben Island...... 323 When our ancestors were yet savages, a Greek his- THELAND OF INDIA...... 327 torian said ' that Egypt had more wonders than all THESTORY OF INDIA...... 338 the rest of the world. It is truethat the country GOVERNMENT...... 3 56 along the banks of the Nileclaims the first of the EDUCATION...... 3 60 seven wonders of the world,, and it may still be said RELIGIONS...... 369 LANGUAGES...... 380 that Egypt possesses greater wondersin the line of , architectural .achievements than the rest of the world; MAPS but the ordinary traveler desires to see something (Bound in booklet inserted in a pocket on the back cwer). besidesmonumental achievements in masonry and I India. architecture. Whenasked, as I have often been;in P Environs of Bombay. 3 Bombay. what country maybe seen the greatest number of 4 Oashmere. things to increase one's knowledge and to add to,one's 5 Srinagar. pleasure, 1 havenamed India. If thk traveler wishes 6 Simla. -, 7 Gdcutta. 8 Benares. 9 Agrs. IO Delhi. 10 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE INTRODUCTION 11 kingdom, the Bengal tiger. If alone to beholdwhat flowers are strangers, except to the botanist. The has been termed "a dream in marble," the Taj Mahal, herds of the fields are strange, embracing' specimens one should go toIndia; but,besides that matchless previously known only in zoiilogical gardens. I men- structure, India justly claims many of 'the most beau- tion these things as hints of the many strange and tiful "and uniquespecimens of architecture in any wonderful things. to be seen in the great peninsular country. Her mosques, her temples, her religious world of Hindustan. When Pmsaid that' shrines, her tombs and memorial monuments, surpass Egypt had more wonders than all the rest of the in number and often in size and magnificence those in world, he .probably knew. little of India, and had ii other parts of the world. Everywhere in western mind the Pyramids and the tombs and temples of the countries are examples of Gothic,Roman, Greek, land of the Nile. None will claim for India, 'even in Byzantine and Egyptian architecture, but besides these, her golden days, the culture of Greece and Rome, but, in Oriental India may be seenBuddhistic, Jaina, at the present time,few if any portions of the globe ' Dravidian, Chalukyan, Saracenic, and Indo-Aryan possess a fuller and richer field for the intelligent architecture neverseen in the westwardcountries. traveler in pursuit of knowledge, pleasure, or adven- India is not only the country of many races, many ture. castes, many languages, much wealth and much pov- Few are able, personally,to visit that teeming world- erty; it is the land of many religions and innumerable empire; but it is nów becoming well-known, that, next priests. It is a world of fanaticism and a homeof to real travel andpersonal observation, the stereo- mysticism.Buddhism, Hinduism, Brahmanism,Jain- graphic itinerary affords a most realistic, permanent, and pleasurable alternative. It is not exaggeration to ism and countless other isms originated in this strange 0 land. It is the birthplace of pestilence. It is the state that I am frequently meeting those whohave country of the fiercest animals and the most venomous serpents. Is it not then a tve wonderland and a land of all the world in which to see and learn ? Throughout the vast empire pastoral scenes are novel and strange. Instead of fields of westerncereal grains, the traveler sees poppy and paddy fields, and fields of indigo and jute. Palm, tea, and cocoa plan- tations are new features in the landscape. The flora isrich and varied, but most trees and shrubs and a2 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE INTRODUCTION 13

diticms of considerable discomfort. . Many wonderful must be alert, enthusiastic, persistent, insatiable in his things in India, whenseen in reality, are often in a desire to see and know.

debilitating temperature, and under liabilities to pes- ' In topographical studies, the poinb of the compass tilential maladies, while, when seen through the stereo- shouldalways be determined. How often, after en- scope, the expense is a trifle ; there is no exposure to tering a strange city in the night and for the first time, pestilence; you are among the comforts of home; it I havediscovered in the morning the sun rising at is wonderlandyou reach directly from the fireside. the most absurd point of the compass. This is be- Besides, there is often a witchery and a charm in wildering and a positive -hindranceto a correct knowl- stereoscopic scenes not found in the real presence of edge of locality. The disarranged comp+swill re- places and things." fuse to be adjusted and,one's ideas of places and direc- I have' beenappointed to serve as personal guide tion will thereafter remain forever erroneous. This for those who are to make this stereoscopic itinerary is true also of stereographic travel. In topographic through the great and wondrous Hindu country-the subjects, direction must be understood. A mistaken I land to which I have referred as containing so much direction in travel often .results disastrously. I once of unusual interest for the student and the traveler.?. remained three days and three nights in.a Californian Our sight-seeing journey will be confined to one hun- jungle.twenty-five miles from any habitation and with- dred places. . This is regrettable, but we couldnot out food, because I lost direction; so the sterewitiner- see all of India even by visiting a thousand places, ant may be twenty-five miles from topographic truth muchless a hundred; neither can a student possess and accuracy, unless he conforms his vision, and ad- all information by taking a course in college. But we justs his position, to the points of the compass. To can gain some howledge from a hundred points of enable him to do this, an excellent system sf patent

, view, and, what is more important, a desire to learn map diagrams, to which frequent reference should be more. To make the most of travel, whether real made,accompanies this book. or stereoscopic, the traveler must be a keen, careful, With this brief foreword, we are ready to go over and intelligentobserver. He cannotbe apathetic; he broad seas to the land of theosophy, the birth-place of religions, the home of the magician, the land where fair women are hidden from view, the land which, as 1 I hope we shall learn on our joùrney, surpasses all

JAMES RICALTON. hstmdons '

1. Experiment with the sliding rack which blds the stereograph until youfind the distance which best suits the focus of your owneyes. This distance varies greatly I with different people. 2. Have a strong, steadJ light on the stereograph. Take care that the face of it is not in shadow. It is a good plan to sit with the back toward the window or lamp, letting the light fall over one shoulder directly on the face of the stereo- graph. 3. Hold the stereograph with the hoodclose against the forehead and temples, shutting off entirely all immediate surroundings. The lessyou are conscious of things close about you, the more strong will be your feeling of actual presence in the scenesyou are studying. ' 4. Think definitely,while you have your face in the hood, just where your positionis, as learned from the maps and explanatory text. Recall your surroundings to mind-i. e., think what is behind you; what lies off at the right; at the left. You will findyourself richly repaid for

' the effort by the fuller "real"-nessofeach outlook. 5. Do not hurry. Take plenty of time to see what is before you. Notice all the little details- or, rather notice as many as you-can each time ; you will be surprised to find, the next time you look at the same place, how many things you had failed to notice at first. I

l 16 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 17

anticipate your questions and answer them to the best The first standpoint we are to take is marked with a of my ability. red-encircled figure 1, in the town, nearly west of the We shall approach the land over whichwe are to landing-place. ,In order to reach it a traveler must wander, as most travelers do, at the port of Bombay. first pass the usual custom-house fohlities; then he , The Portuguese were early expansionists and acquired gazes about with a sense of bewilderment at the queer territory in Hindustan in the sixteenth century. There Oriental aspect of things. The people‘of the lower are few harbors on the coast of this Hindu land, and, classes munch a substitute for tobacco which gives a when the Portuguese found this ample bay and shelter, blood-red expectoration; it is a combination of palm- they very naturally called it Boa 3ahia (good bay or nut, betel-leaf, and lime, and is used over the whole harbor), which name was gradually changed to Born- eastern world. Bayard Taylor says, in one of his bay after the English occupation in the seventeenth writings, that whenhe first landed in Bombayhe century. The island bounding the “good bay” on the thought that mostpeople had hemorrhage. If it be sea-side took the name of Good Bay Island, and .the towards evening, there may appear, winding through town founded thereon the same name. Now the town the streets, milch cows.after a newfashion-great, of Good Bay has become the second city in the British shapeless,lop-horned water buffaloes. TFe cawing Empire with a population of about nine hundred thou- of numberlessrooks greets the ear; dark faces are sand. If it be our first glimpse of Oriental life, many seeneverywhere, save an occasional“red-neck,” as strange scenes will meet our gaze. the Boers were wont to call the Englishmen. After If we have not forgotten what we gained of geo- a long sea voyage land odors are grateful, and a short graphical knowledge at school,we may remember walkenables one to recover his “land-legs,” but he ‘that Bombay is situated- about midwaybetween the soon becomes conscious of vibrating tropical heat, fol- l I northern and southern limits of the peninsula,on the lowedby increasing perspiration and decreasing western coast and about nineteen degrees north of the energy. equator. Consult our general map of Hindustan (Map Our first position, which we have just located, is to l) and verify this;it is worth the trouble. Next, be on a tall tower from which we can get an extensive l having the localityclearly mind,in turnto Map 2, outlook over the southern section of Bombay, though which shows the city ofBombay by itself. In its in- muchof the city will lie behind us. Notice particu- sular situation, Bombayhas sometimes been likened larly the direction and length of thetwo red lines to New York, the island extending north and south, which diverge from the encircled 1, for they include

, and corresponding in length and width to Manhattan. between them precisely the part of the city which we The Arabian Sea laves its western exposure, while the shall find spread out before us when we take our first eastern front borders the spacious bay and harbor, in stand in Bombay. The directions of the diverging whichvessels anchor, and from which the landing lines tell that we shall be facing south. The map I . made.is See also Map 3. promises that certain large buildings quite near our i wtion1. -3 Podtloq 1. M.01 ;and 2 I A.

l l8 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 19 standpoint will be included in our field of vision, and there we shall take our next position to see what is that we shall look beyond them out to sea. claimed to ‘be the finest railway station in the, world.

Again turning to what is before the extreme , Now we are ready to take our first position in us, . India.’ southern end of the island forms a narrow peninsula a little to the right and out of our line of vision and FWition za Over Unìvemity and Seantarlat, south two and a half .miles distant. On that extreme point fmm Rdabal Tower, Bombay of land,called Colaba, are locatedalighthouse, ob- I servatory, hospital and militarybarracks. European Here we areon another continent.Remembering steamshipsreach Bombay from the west (right). A that we are looking south, we understand, of course, ship crosses beyond our line of view eastward about that the greater part of India’s vast area is at our left four miles from this point; then she swings northward reaching5ar towards both porth and south; that andanchors in the “gd harbor,”directly to our Europe is far off behind at our .right; and that us left about one mile away. our faces are turned toward the great Indian Ocean, A little to our left, one mile distant, is the terminus though the Ambian Sea stretches immediately before of the Bombay, Baroda and Central Indian Raiilway. us. Dimlywe can see now in the distance the Dolphin .Should we sail away from this city in the direction Light ona small island. Back Bay, an arm of the towards which we are looking, wewould pass along sea, is only two hundred yards to our right; bay the Malabar coast, and at apoint about eight hu,n- this is two miles wide and on its farther shore rises Mala- dred miles southward, we would reach Minicoy Island bar Hill, the highest land near Bombay, one hundred (see Map situated between the Laccadiveand l), and eighty feet. It is the most popular suburb Bom- Maldive groups and about two hundredmiles west- of and is well taken up with beautiful homes. Be- ward.of Colombo. I mention this small island, because bay, tween us and Back Bay on our right is a public re- most travelers to the eastward by the way of Colombo sort or common, one-half mile long and two hundred are cheeredby a glimpse of this first land after a yardswide, called the Esplanade. Here on certain . rather long seavoyage from Aden. To our right days, notwithstanding the oppressive heat, both natives hand, towards the westand southwest, an unbroken and Europeans engage in all sports and games of the expanse of water extends to the coast of Africa, fif- day.Beyond the Esplanade, and between. the rail- teen hundred miles away; to our left and eastward way line and, the bkach, often may be seen great num- for less than one mile, the city of Bombay extends to bers of tents occupied by families who have beencom- the harbor. The European citymuch asit appears pelled to fleefrom their homesin parts of the city before us, showing elegant .public and commercial where the plague has made its appearance. buildings,continues northward (behind us) for one The building with the square towers is greater and mile, where the native city joins with the European- moreimposing than it appears to be from our ele- Pdtloa 1. Mnp 3 Padtm1. mm?, 20 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 21

vated position, its frontage on Mayo Road to the right turn and look northward over other buildings, we being four hundred and fortythree feet and each should see a noble structure for the Courts of Justice, wingbeing over eighty feet in width. Thisgreat much longer than the Presidential Secretariat, and pile, stately in appearance and stately in its use, is the Post and Telegraph Buildings, the Town Hall and what the English call the Presidential Secretariat, a many others. The publicbuildings here in Bom- Government office building, containing private rooms bay surpass in elegance those of Calcutta, and com- for the Governor, committee rooms, offices of the Ju- pare favorably with those of any city in the world. dicial,Revenue and Military Departments. The roof and towers of another fine structure, upon which we With this survey of the busy Parsee city from the look down, tell something of the elevation of our view Rajabai Tower. we may descend and pass northward point on this Rajabai tower, the full height of which along the bustling Hornby Road to the Victoria is two hundred and sixty feet. That building,which Terminus of the great Indian Peninsular Railway to seems to crouch beneath our high perch, is University see what has beencalled by many, and not without Hall, a fine edifice in the ornate French style of archi- reason, the finest railway station in the world.Con- tecture, and sometimescalled Cowasjee ' Hall after sult the Bombaymap and seewhere Position 2 is Cowasjee Jehangir, a wealthy Parsee, who contributed marked in red, northeast of Position 1. The slant of generously towards the cost of erection. The clock- the red lines which diverge from the figure 2 shows tower onwhich we stand is an adjunct of the Uni- that we shall be facing abut northeast but that we versity and library, a grand pile in fourteenth century shall not see to so long a distance as before. 6 Gothic style. Beyond the Secretariat, a little to the right, we see l Posìtioa a. The most magdceot railww staffon a fine modern structure, scarcelycompleted, which in tb0 worl&Bombay represents the department of public works; and still farther away we can see towering factory chimneys Since Ieaving the Rajabai Tower, we have traveled l which indicate up-to-date progress in the industries. less than a mile in a northeasterly direction and we Beyond the Secretariat too a street leads to the left in are still looking in that direction with the Tower and the direction of those high white buildings in the dis- the neighboring buildings .off behind us. Our atten- tance, and to the harbor only a hundred yards fahther tion is divided between a droll vehicle and a vast struc- away; there we should find a delightful water-front ture which cost one and one-half millions of dollars, called the Apollo Bunder, where the heat-oppressed and that in a country where labor costs next to nothing. Bombayitesflock at sunset to quaff the grateful sea Railway stations are often large aid sometimes com- breezes. Near the Apollo Bunder is a commodious modious, but seldom if ever have we seen one so rich club building, and across the plaza from the club, re- in ornamentation, carved in solid stone. The archi- centlycompleted, a many-storiedhotel. Could we tecture is Italian Gothic, effectively modified in parts PorltloO 1. Mmp 3 0 Parllbw 13. 3 ...... 22 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE . BOMBAY 23 by the Oriental. It is probably the finest building in vince many of their error who believe (as I once be- Bombay and is one ofwhich the people are justly lieved) that India, being a heathen land to which we proud. The internal arrangements are convenient, send missionaries, has little of the progress and civi- . and, being the terminus of one of the great trunk lines lized conditions of westerncountries. I might add. of India where many trains arrive and depart daily, it another reason :- viz., to show those,especially in always presents interesting scenes of jostling activity, America, who are wont to sneer at England’s wonder- Beyond this point thé black town or native part of the ful expansion and benevolent colonization as “world- ‘ city begins; but it must not be supposed that the be- grabbing,” and “territorial greed,” what English coloni- ginning of the native sectionimplies a line of ,de- zation means; and what is true of Bombay is true of markation between fine buildings and shanties, for one other cities and countries under English rule. There- would find in the native quarter many wealthy busi- fore, I mention a few of the educational and benevo- ness-houses as well as elegant private residences. At lent institutions here: - Elphinstone Cdllege, a splen- the sametime no city is without its poorand the did school largely endowed by a wealthy Parsee; the squalorwhich usually accompanies poverty. Bombay New EIphinstone High School, the object of which is has prolific breeding places for most dangerous germs, to furnish a high-class and liberal education up to the and one is sure to think of this when he wanders into University standard at fees within the .means of the squalid by-ways. middle classes; St. XavierCollege ; WilsonCollege, On the opposite side of the street to our left is the the largest college for natives in Western lndia; Alex- Bombay Municipal Building, not quite in view, but it ander College for Parsee ladies ;two High Schools for is a magnificent Gothic pile in stone with a dome and girls ; the Mission High School; the School of Art, tower two hundred andfifty-five feet high, with a andmany other less noted but exceIlent’schoqls. statue whichtypifies Bombay’s claims to urban SU- Amongwell-equipped +d well-maintained charitable premacy in the inscription Urbs pkma irr Indis. institutions, are :- the Royal Alfred Sailors’ Home; Even from the two positions which we have occu- the European General Hospital; the St. George Hos- pied, we may infer that there is reason for pital; the Pestonji Kama Hospital; the Gokaldas Hos- the pride herpeople ‘have in her publicbuild- pital; the Jamshidji Hospital; the Grand Medical Col- ings. Eighteen, years ago, during my first visit here, lege ; the Jamshidji Jijibhaì’s Parsee Benevolent Insti- 1 .visited a public school, the building of which was the tution; the Jamshidji Dharmsala; the Parsee Dharm- mst ornate educational structure I had ever seen in sala; the Bombay Asiatic Society ; the Anthropologi- any country; the same stmare has now been put to cal Society; the Natural Histoj Society, and all other another use on account of its unsuitable situation. institutions and organizatims any western city can.. Although we have not time to visit them, it is worth ’ claim. while to ‘mention some of the many admirable institu- The most curious among the benevolent institutions tions in Bombay, if for no other reason than to con- is an asylum for sick and disabled animals of all kirlds. . Podtion 2. Mmp3 PodtbnX -3 24- INDIA THROUGH THE’STERJ3OSCOPE BOMBAY 25,

. It is in the heart ’of the native city only about a mile herdic -should .findapplication in the remote Orient. northwest (left) from where we stand. It iscalled English dictionaries tell us that a herdic is a two or the Pinjrapol. It covers several acres and has depart- four-wheeled vehicle with an entrance behind and in- ments for aged and infirm cattle and a department for vented by one Peter Herdic; here then is a Bombay goats, sheep and asses ; another ‘section is set apart for “herdic,” or a Himalayan “ekka,” which is a similar buffaloes, still another for dogs and cats.All these sort of two-wheeled conveyance used in the Himalayas. dumb animals are fed and well cared for. Some may But it may well be doubted, whether Peter Herdiccon- question the wisdom of bestowing so much of human structed any such canopy as here shelters the driver kindness on dumb animals. To relieve suiking is and the least sun-strokable portion of his bovine steeds. always noble and to practise kindness is to cultivate The canopy for protection from the sun, and the long the human heart. A Buddhist priest once told me that ungraceful,shirt-like tunics worn by all wesee on the greatest defect in the teaching of Christ is that it the streets, remind us that real travel in India is hot- nowhere inculçates due consideration for the lower ani- ter than stereoscopic I Those jaunty little zebubul- mals. I hada neighbor once,a nominal Christian, locks do not mind the heat; they are valuable servants often leading in prayer at church, who nailed a living of man in every part of the East; ‘here they are doing crow to a stake in his field to seme as a scare-crow ; the service of carriage horses. At the corner of the when charged with cruelty, he said he wished to tor- station wesee others drawing a transportation cart; ture it. for the depredations it had committed in his sometimes, one might see them trotting through the fields. This man worshipped at the Cross of Christ; highways before a sort of sulky. They are capable he erected a cross and on it crucified an innocent and of twenty milesa day and are lessexpensive than unreasoning fellow-creature ! I could not but recall horses. (I once bought a superannuated specimen for what the Buddhist priest had told me. The olddefi- a dollar and a half, to be used as an alluring bait to nition for Deity, viz. :- “God is love,” altered only coax a leopard from his hiding place. Cruel, you say ? in phrase would &Kindness is God. Kindness is the Yes, hunters must be cruel sometimes or they must greatest moral power in the universe, and the Pin- cease to be hunters.) You can see that the coachman, jrapol should be regarded as a noble institution. or herdic-man is perched well forward; this is ndces- Churches and elegant temples abound here and one sary because, instead of using a whip as most drivers almostwonders where heathendomcomes in. It is do, to correct disinclination to movewith sufficient here, as it is everywhere, but in truth, vice is neither speed, the bullock-driver delivers a quick and effective so common nor so bold here as in the homelands of twist of a delinquent animal’stail according to require- the missionary. Coming backagain to the sights directly before us, we see close by a droll vehicle, which some-call an “ekka” I have already had occasion to refer to a race of and others a“herdic.” It is curious thatthe term people in Bombay noted for integrity, enterprise and Pdtlon 2. Map 3 porttloaa. -3 ‘\ -7 26 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 27 benevolence. Our next positionwill be a short dis- gards the cross as a symbol.Could they reverence tance westward from our first, and on the sea-beach of grander symbols ? Back Bay where we may see and learn something of Each of the two men near us holds a prayer-book; a peoplepossessing those rare oriental qualities-I one is reading; the gaze $e other is towards the meanIntegrity, enterprise, and benevolence. Be sure of thin crescent in the westbehind us. Other worship- to find this third position on the western shore line of pers are scattered over the muddy surface of the the city. We are to face eastward. beach; some remain at the causeway. At this moment there are only a few; sometimes this entire sea-front Position' 3m Parems worshipping the new moon- BBBf to Bm Bm & Cm Im Railway, Bombay is lined. But you will say, who are the Parsees, and what is We are here placed in rather an unusual position- their religion? Well,briefly told, they are descend- out in the bay at low tide. The water is still ebbing; ants of the ancient Persians or Iranians. The ancient we see the ripple marks on the,soft bottom, and pools Persians or Iranians, like other ancient peoples, and of water had to be avoidedin reaching this place. modern people, too, for that matter, had a great re- We have come so far out in order to reach a place ligious teacher or expounder called Zoroaster ; and the beyond the foremost of all the people scattered over teachings of that, great religious leader were compiled this muddybeach. We have our backs tothe west into a Zoroastrian Bible called the Avesta, or Zepd- where the newmoon is in the sky. These men in Avesta. Very little is known about the personality of long white robes are Parsees who are here to worship this Persian philosopher; some authorities claimhe the new moon; they worship also the sun, the earth lived a thousand years B. C. and others place him back and the sea-or ratherit wouldbe more correct to to 6,000 B. C. ; but more recent and morecredible say that they worship, not these things in themselves, writers place his time at 600 B. C. So little is really but as the grandest symbols of the Infinite. They are known about him that some have been led to believe too intelligent a people to worship these things except the name to be mythical. He undoubtedly was an his- manifestations of the Unknowable.Some people as toric teacher, and his birthplace was in some part of like to.pray on house-tops, and others in solitude. We Persia. The Zend-Avestais better known than its see then why some of these worshippers have come far author, and its teachings are in manyrespects, ex- out to be away from the multitude and near to the cellent. retreating sea. I cannot but admire their choice of S. A. Kajadia, author of The Teachings of Zoroas- Deity symbols-fire, water, the sun, the moon, the ter and The Philosophy of the Parsi Religion, says :- earth, the sea. They are sometimescalled fire-wor- "Ancient as the Zoroastrian religion is, no more am- shippers; but this characterization the Parsees do not prehensive,lucid and intelligibledefinition of the like;it is a misrepresentation; they do not worship Great' Creative Cause can be foundin any religious fire except as a symbol, the same as a Christian re- books of the modernreligions. It is worthy of note Porltko 3. Map 3 Pœltbod. mp3 28 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 29 1 that Milton, whowrote nearly twenty-five hundred oil-cloth and flattened and open at the top. It is im- years after Zoroaster, had grasped the true spirit of possible to account for the various irregularities and the Zoroastrian ideal of God. convolutions of the Parsees’ hea gear. I wish, how- ever, you could see the exquis’d? ely beautiful personal Unspeakable who sit’st above these heavens, attire of Parsee ladies which consists of a light robe To us invisible, or dimly seen of thin white silk, extending from the head to the feet In these Thy lowest works, yet these declare in a graceful flow which would.put to ridicule the stiff Thy goodness beyond thought, and power divine.” and ungraceful European styles. [ . ” About 640 B. C. there was an Arab invasion and In connection with our first and second positions, conquest of Persia, when Zoroastrianism, which had reference was made to the elegance of public buildings ; swayed Iran forcenturies, was crushed before the mili- do not fail to observe another example in the highly tant and aggressive faith of Islam. Many Iranians in- ornate building near the bay in the distance (east). voluntarily transferred their allegiance to the Crescent It is the office building of the Bombay, Baroda and and adopted the faith of their conquerors; a few, how- Central India Railway. We can see a portion of the ever, unwilling to embrace the new religion or to suf- railway station at the extreme left. It is called Church fer the ban of persecution, fled eastward to different Gate Station; it is from there that a traveler makes I) parts of India,the greater number to Bombay here, his departure for the north of India. where they are now called Parsees after the name of a province in Persia, called Pars, whence they originally Consult the Bombay city map again. When we came. stood at Position 3 Malabar Hill was behind us and A religion which has produced the characteristics of a little towards our left. Thither we proceed for our the Parsees cannot be devoid of moral power and ex- next position, to visit a strange institution belonging cellence.Bombay contains about ninety thousand of to the peoplewe have been considering. To reach it these Iranian refugees; their ancient fatherland prob- we pass the railway station which we saw on the shore, ably contains an equal number. We see then a rem- turn to the left around the northern end of the bay, nant of this noble race, pursued and persecuted, almost ascend an elevation of about two hundred feet, and at extinguished, by the fanaticism of Islam; this scarcely the top of that ascend a flight of stone steps. There seems like a survival of the fittest. These men before we shall be at the point marked 4, before the world- us are followers of Zoroaster, worshipping after their famed Tower of Silence, the place where the Parsees ancient fashion the natural elements which typify the tlispose of their dead, according to an ancient usage Ahura Mazda (The All-Knowing Lord). You will ordained by Zoroaster, the great prophet of Iran. The observe their rational and cool attire for a hot climate. red lines show that we shall face northeast. On these worshippers we see a very curious sort of hat-an irregular cylinder of card-board, covered with Poeltlon 3. Map 3 30 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 31

Posìtìon 4. Tower of Sllenoe, where vultures devour here a short time we might witness, first an agitation the Parsee dead-Xalabar Hill, Bombay among the vultures, then a sudden darting downward We are looking a little north of east, in the direc- into theinterior; this would an the beginning of tion of the native quarter of Bombay; the European their gruesome repast. In Thour a body is stripped part lies a few degrees to our right. The flight of of flesh. The bones are allowed to remain till thor- eighty stone steps by which the Tower is reached is oughly dried in the hot sun; escaping liquids from the on -the other side, a little to the right of the Tówer. body are conveyed in channels to the well where they We can see quite distipctly a line of waiting vultures pass through beds of charcoal in which they are on top of the wall, and one huge bird soaring in mid- deodorized and disinfected, and thus prepared to air. We can easily imagine that circling corpse-eater mingle with the water of the sea.without polluting the to be a sentinel, watching for the approach of a slow- sacred element. After the bones have been well dried mving funeral procession. in the hot sun, they are removed by tongs into the well in the center of the Tower. 4 The philosophy of Zoroaster lookswith horror on the defilement of Mother Earth by the interment of Deadbodies when brought here are wrapped in bodies therein. Earth, water, and fire are sacred, and white cerements, and borne to the Tower of Silence a dead body is the most repugnant form of unclean- on biers carried by four professional carriers. A good liness; therefore, thetrue disciple of the Persian road has been made at the expense of a wealthy Parsee Prophet must dispose of the dead by some of Nature’s from the city to the Tower, and several times a day methods.Corpses cannot be burnedin the fire, nor maybe seen a funeral procession, moving along the buried in the earth, nor put into the water; this road towards Malabar Hill. Thefour carriers are followed closely by two venerable priests, and behind “Tower of Silence” provides a method of disposal. . It consists of a great building twenty-five feet high and themcome relatives and friends. On reaching these two hundred seventy-six feet in circumference. As grounds, the body is taken to what we would call a yoÚ see it yonder on the hill it resembles an old-fash- chapel,where prayers are offered, after which the ioned fort without port-holes. The interior issome- bearers with‘the priests proceed to the Tower where what elevated and arranged in three concentric tiers the funeral garments are removed and the nude body sloping downward towards a great well in the center, is placedin one of the trough-like cavities. As soon five feet in diameter. The tiers contain shallow troughs as the carriers and priests withdraw, the hungry vul- in whichbodies are placed.Channels extend from tures swoopdown in great numbers. The priests the troughs to the well in the center. and carriers wear garments for the occasion,which The bodies placed in those spaces are devoured by are afterwards taken to a disinfecting placeon the what the Parsees call heaven-sent birds, we call them grounds and thoroughly cleansed. The handling of yultures. You seethem perched around the top of the body and bonesis done with tongs. Parsees re- the wall awaiting the arrival of a body. By waiting spect the dead, but regard a corpse as most unclean; Fomltkn4. :M.p3 pOrltkn4. Map 3 32 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 33 l the carriers on account of their ignoble work are social ~ ously refused ;therefore, the only possibility lay in find- outcasts. ing a place outsidethe grounds from which stereo- I have already mentioned the commercial honor, the l graphs could made.be I mawcomplete circuit I benevolence and high-minded qualities of these peo- , of the entirearea, under great difficulties. Wallsand I ple; in the matter of cleanliness and sanitation we see l Imlshwood interveneon all sides. This was the only how strict are the rules handed down from the ancient position outside the grounds from which I could ob- days. In this connection, it isworthy of observation I tain even thispartial disclosure of theTower. that,during the many and disastrous visitations of l plague in Bombay, the Parsees have entirely escaped. Having now seen something of theParsee and l3y securing a permit from the office of the society, mcient Persian method of disposing of the dead, we called the Panchayat, a person may visit the Towers hall return. to the city. The routeis along a street of Silence. I sayTowers, because there are several which follows the beach of Back Bay; when within a within the same grounds, generally spoken of collec- haIf mile of ChurchGate station, a European ceme- tively as the “Tower of Silence.” No visitor, however, Icry is passed, then a Mohammedan burial place, and is allowed toenter a tower. Thegrounds embrace war by, on the same street,is the Hindus’burning many acresand afford a quiet retreat, beautified by place, the last-named showing theHindu method of trees, flowers, and flowering shrubbery, and conrmand- clisposing of their dead. There we are to take our next ing a charming view of Bombay andthe sea. It is position. It will be found interesting to trace the de- indeed a suitable retreat in which to meditate on the scribed routeon our Bombay city map. The fifth departeddead; of course, to us who are not accus- \tandpoint is markedin red in the usualmanner, tomed tothe Persian disposition of thedead, our I hough we are to have a more limited range of view. meditations would be disturbed by intruding thoughts of voracious birds. Eliminating custom and senti- Position 5. Hindu burning place (eauth),near Mala- ment, andexercising philosophy, thereis little to bar Hill+mmatìng thedead, Bombay choose between grave-worms and vultures. Weare facing once moresouthwards toward the You will naturallywonder why our position is SO lower end of the city island and the open sea beyond. distantfrom the Tower. I will tell you. The rules llack Bay is off at our right. of the society are very strict. As I have said, no per- It is quite curious that on returning from the Towers son is allowed to enter the Tower; even the Prince of of Silence one should incidentally pass, first a European Wales was allowed to see only a model of the interior ccrnetery where earth-burial is practised, then a Mo- plan. The rules are even morestrict in regardto Imnmedan burial ground where the dead are also in- photographing the Tower. I presented to the Pan- tcrrcd, and, following this reach this burning-place of chayatletters from the U. S. Consul asking for this Ille I-Iindus, where the dead are cremated. The Hin- privilege;but the request was firmly thoughcourte- 1111s believe that fire, instead of being defiled by dead hltlon 4. Mnp 3 FwltboI. ma 34 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BOMBAY 35

bodies as the’ Parsees hold, is the consumer of all im- and one above. In many burning places no iron frames purity,and that things impure, are quite neufralized are used; instead, a trough-like cavity in the earth is by it. In brief, theParsees believe that thevultures dug to receive the ashes. Severaltiers of wood are arethe best neutralizers of corruption; most Euro- placed over this opening in the earth; upon these the peans and Mohammedans believe that earth is the best body isplaced; over the body there is then placed purifier; the Hindus choose fire; while the Egyptians, another tier of wood; but the amo nt of wood is not in ancient days, often embalmed their dead. Which is always the same. Often poor Jople cannot afford a best ; who can tell ? sufficient amount of wood to consume the body en- . But we arehere to witness the process of consum- tirely, when portions are left to be devoured by jackals ing thedead by fire instead of by vultures. We are and vultures; and often the vicinity of burning places looking southtowards the Rajabai Tower (Position is strewn with bones and skulls. l), which is only one mile distant. Outside this en- We can see partially, on the right, a table surrounded closure to the right, by the gate on the street, a visitor by benches. When bodies reach the burning-place they receives a first shock when he sees load after load of are deposited on that table for the removal of funeral wood brought to thegate on bullock-carts. . . . I coverings, after which they are bathed in that tank to man when one is not accustomed to any kind of cre- the left. It is not unlikely thatthe tank contains a mation andfirst realizes that so much cord-wood i9 small portion of water from the sacred Ganges. When to be consumed in burning human bodies. We see at I lindus are expected to die they are often carried many once that this burning-place is of the ancient type, a miles to the banks of that sacred river; for to die there

funeral pyre and not a modernized crematory. , The is a sure passport to heaven. When the Ganges can- groundsare not beautified asare those aboutthe t~otbe reached, sometimes portions of a body not con- Tower of Silence; here is only a long open space with sumed in the burning are taken or sent to be thrown a high board fence on one side, and a line of sheds on into the stream, whose waters ensure salvation. Often the other filled with benches for the use of friends at- lwfore the fire is kindled, the head is sprinkled with tendingthe burning of bodies. We see eight orten Ganges water and smeared with Ganges mud. burning-places, each place being indicated by a square When all the preliminary rites have been performed, screen which is placed to prevent the wind from mak- some relative of the deceased, with a brandin his ing an uneven combustion. There are asmany burning Iland, invokes by name the holy places, saying :- places as there are wind-screens. ” May the gods with flaming mouths burn this corpse!” At my request one screen has been removed to show ‘flltm, after passing three times around the pile, .he the pile which is beginning to burn. In this place the stops with his face towards the south, and, stooping wood and the body are placed in an iron grate with on one knee, applies the fire to the pile at the head, upright supports. If you look closely, you may see the while the attending priest repeats this prayer :- “Fire ! feet of the body with several layers of wood beneath, thou wert lighted by him, may he, therefore, be re-

Porltloa S. mp3 Porltloa 6. Mmp 3 86 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE ELEPHANTA 37 produced from thee, that he may attainthe regions of celestial bliss. May this offering be auspicious.” thought; a lack of absolute knowledge results in specu- lation, and’ adread of the unknown often compels When the body has been reduced to ashes, the priests reason to abdicate. in attendance sometimes recite the *following texts.-

“Foolish is he who seeks permanence in the We will not be loth to leave this gruesome place and human state ; unsolid, like the stem of the plan- find our way back to the Ballard Pier where we first tain tree; transient, like the foam of the sea. came ashore. From thence a sailing boat would &e “When a body formed of five elements, to re- us eastward over the bay to a famous island six miles ceive the reward of deeds done in its own former from Bombay,called Elephanta. O r neAt position is . person reverts to its five original elements, what before a famouslandmark on tliq! island. Consult mom is there for regret? . Map 2, “Bombay and Environs.” . “The earth is perishable; the ocean, thegods themselves, pass away; how should not that bub- ble, mortal man, meet destruction ? meition 6. Drunken dance of the eight-armed dì- . vinity Shiva, rock-hewn Temple, Blephanta “All that is low must finally perish ; all that is high must ultimately fall; all compound bodies This island of Elephanta where we stand is a forma- must end in dissolution, and life is concluded with tion of trap rock six miles in circumference, some death. I points of which are more than five thousand feet above “Unwillingly do the remains of the deceased taste the tears shed by their kinsman ; then do not the bay. When first visited by the Portuguese, they wail, but diligently perform the obsequies of the found near this temple a huge stone elephant, which dead.” (luite naturallygave the name to the island. Many The fire used in kindling the pile must not be from ycars ago, the head fell from the monolithic elephant any other pile norfrom an unworthy source. Each :II~in 1864 it was placed in the Victoria Gardens in mourner, before returning to the home of the deceased, Ih~bay. The island is covered with tropical vegeta- touches fire while the priest recites :- t ion. Landing is made at along pier on thenorth- west side; we reach the temple on a bluff above, by a “May fire grant us happiness !”* Ilight of over one hundred steps. Luxuriant trees be- There is much that is repugnant in the burning of llind us overshadow the front, and the dark trap rock bodies, as practised here, yet the funeral pyre has been ;hove the entrance is festooned with tropical creepers; common to many countries in all ages, and we see how 1l1c front of the over-hanging rock is supported by a people differ as to the best mode of disposing of the number of pillars, or columns, similar to those before dead, as they do on nlany other subjects. Men are cast 11s. In this position we are between the first and sec- in different moulds and cannot always harmonize in ond tiers of supports. The upper portions of these slipports are cylindrical and delicately grooved, and * See Mohn Hinddm by W.J. Wilkins. arc therefore columnar in form, while the lower parts PoßWon S. Map 3 pOrtLba6. hp1 38 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE ELEPHANTA 39

are square and may be called pillars. We are standing trians had something to do with the design and orna- in the narrow entrance; beyond the tiers of pillars on mentation. '' Many natives do not believe they are of our left the full length of the main space is one hun- human construction at all, the work being too gigantic

dred and thirty by one hundred and twenty-three feet, for the hand of man. It is said by some writers that ' while the height from the floor to the ceiling is from the early Portuguese settlers are responsible for their twelve to fifteen feet. destruction-that they amused themselves by firing can- The most wonderful thing about this cave or temple non into the caves ; but this is not probable. The trap is' that it has been chiseled from the solid trap moun- formation is always full of fissures and grows frag- \ tain without modernappliances. This is true of all mentary when exposed, and maybe no human agency

cave shrines and it is said there are one thousand in is chargeable with the destruction. ' India. While the sculptures are beautiful, the amount Although Shiva is the destroyer, those living sup- of laborrequired is incomprehensible. Thereare in pliants before his dancing figure imagine hemay at all twenty-six of these finely formed columns and six- will change his destructive office and become a pre- teenpilasters, and the wall-panelsin every partare server. Another compartment at the end of the great decoratedwith allegorical carving-neof them we cave towards our right contains a bust of Shiva and see at the end of the space we occupy. his wife, Parbati, nineteen feet high. The Great Cave Most of the cave temple shrines in India are either is calledby the Hindus a Shiva Lingam Temple, a

Buddhist or Brahminical ;~ these are Brahminical and class of temples not uncommon in India, temples which, mostly in honor of Shiva, the third in the order of the as implied in the word Lingam, bestow favors of sexual Hindu triad*-Shiva the destroyer; and it would seem fecundity.Some time in February, during the Shiva that Shiva the destroyer is so bent on destruction that festival, great numbers,especially women, flock here he has not spared his own lithic representative, which to pay homage to the Lingam Stone in a compartment you see on the wall. The figure we see beyond is that near where we stand. of Shiva engaged in a mad dance, a sort of a dervish Do not forget that we are looking across only the affair whichhe is said to engage in at eventide, at- entrance, that the full length of this pillared temple is tended by a retinue of demons. In all other parts one hundred and thirty feet, and that in every part it of the cave we find other religious representations of isdecorated with colossal and finely sculptured di- Hindu divinities, amongst which Shiva appears to be vinities. Even though we are limited to this one pcr most revered. sition, and although our study of EIephanta has been The time at which these rock-temples were made is brief, I hope you have obtained a visualizedidea of not known; it is supposed to have been seven or eight Elephanta which will be valuable .and permanent. hundred years ago. It is believed, that, although the Hindus performed the vast work,Greeks and Bac- I have told you thatthere are a thousandcave- *See the chapter on Hinduism, page 361. shrines in India; our limitations will allow US to visit Porltkn 6. hp2 Podtlw 6. -2 40 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPÉ ELLOM 41 only two; but these two shall be of the best. Now we Kylas:-"Independently of its historical or ethno; are to set out for the second, and should consult Map graphical value, the Kylas is, in itself, one' of the most 1. We return to Bombay, and from the beautiful singular and "interesting.monuments of architectural Victoria Terminus StatiÒn,which we saw (Position art in India. Its beauty and singularity alwaysex- 2), we take a train northeastward two hundred and cited the astonishment of travelers, and in consequence thirty miles to Aurangabad, then from that station a itis better known than' almost any other structure in . pleasant drive of ten miles takes us to our next posi- that country, from the numerous views and sketches tion (marked on the map by the number 7 in red), of it that have been published." before the wonderful caves of Ellora. Do you perceive, that this is not a cave temple, but a regular temple mtirely in relief and yet cut from the . Posìtion 7. One of the world's marvels-beautffil solid rock by which it is surrounded ? It isunique, Dravidian Temple cut in did rock (northeast) even in a country which claims a thousand cave tem- &Itom ples; and do you realize the extent of this excavation, We are near a small village of srne eight hundred and the size of this peerless monolithic structure ? The inhabitants in the western part of the Nizam's vast ter- quadrangular court is one hundred and fifty-four by ritory. Out here, a short distance eastward of the vil- two hundred and seventy-six feet and the scarp be- lage, along the escarpment of a crescent-shaped'hill, hindis one hundred and seven feet high. The main there is probably the mostwonderful series of cave portion of the structure, called the Vimana in oriental templesin the world. They extend along the face nomenclature,is nearly ninety feet high, which is of the semi-circular elevation for a mile and a quarter. equivalent to seven or eight stories. That fine parch There are thirty-four important cavetemples, repre- before the Vimana is supported by sixteen columns senting different religions and different styles of archi- and connected therewith by an elegant bridge,, and be- tecture :- twelve are Buddhistic, seventeen are Brah- fore the first porch is a second porch, also joined to manical, and five are Jainist. Imagine a. distance of the first by a bridge; the second porch is joined to a one and one-quarter miles along which beautiful tem- screen or highly decorated wallwhich separates the ples are hewn from solid trap rock, and that not in cntire spacefrom the outside. The court isflanked smooth, plain surfaces, but in elaboration of style and by a peristyle cloister with cells and halls, not for ornamentation, in Jain, in Hindu, and in Dravidian or- priests, but filled with divinities df the Hindu pantheon. ' ders.All are interesting, all are wonderful, but we The first porch is what the Hindus call a Mandapam, have taken our position before that which has been uni- the place occupied by the Nandi bull, and on either side versallypronounced the masterpiece of the whole of the Mandapam or porch is what the natives call a series, a matchless example of Dravidian architecture. deepdan which is really a lamp-pillar. One of the pil- It is called the Kylas, and Fergusson, the great au- lars we can see, and how richly it is scuIptured. These thority on oriental architecture, has this to say of the lithic lamppostsare forty4ve feet high. On either

P.r-0 7. Bhp L ,kdaam1. Mapl 42 INDIA THROUGIf THE STEREOSCOPE AHMEDABAD 43

side of the first porch is an elephant in stone about Again you should consult the general map of India. the natural size, but, our position being on top of the Threehundred miles north of Bombay you will enclosing screen or wall, the elephants are not in view. find the famous ôld city of Ahmedabad, once the great- A fine portalis cut through the screen, on the out- est city of western India; there we shall take our next side are monstrous sized sculptures of Vishnu and position. Trainsfrom Church Gate Station on the Shiva with their fellow divinities, and immediately Bombay & Baroda Railway take passengers in a few . within the entrance is a relief sculpture of Lakshima, hours from Bombay to the ancient city. the consort of Vishnu. When we consider the gigantic proportions of this Posìtion 8. "There ìs no God but God, and M'omet temple and the elaboration of detail, it is difficult to tell ìs Hìs Prophd~p-pmyersin Mmqne, Ahmedabad which impresses the beholder more, the magnitude of We are in the court of the Jumma Musjid in the the excavation or the inconceivable amount of artistic city of Ahmedabad. For once I need not tell in what work. You may notice a native placedby thedoor direction we are looking-a Mohammedan at prayers beyond the lamp-pillar ; this has been done to give a makes a reliable compass if you know the latitude and standard of comparative measurement. I hope, as longitude of his sacred city. We have already seen youlook upon this miracle in stone, youwill recall something of Brahmanical worship; now we see fol- the comparisons made at the outset of our itinerary lowers of Mohammed engaged in their much-praying. between the wonders of Egypt andthe wonders of The Prophet of the Faithful requires his disciples to India. This masterpiece of temple-building is not so pray five times a day-at sunrise, at noon, in the after- old as the Egyptian wonders, yet about twelve hundred noon, inthe evening and in the night. Mecca and years have passed since the patientartisans trans- Ahmedabad are in very nea'rly the same latitude (Mec- formed this flinty mountgn into the countless forms ca, of course, at the west), we know, therefore, from of beauty we see in this maze of architecture. the direction towards which the men's faces are turned, I have said that this is a Dravidian temple. It may and from the shadows, that they are engaged in their . not be amiss to repeat here, that Dravidian is the term afternoon prayers, and thatthe timeis about three used to distinguish the primitive and the purely Indian o'clock. You know that Mussulmeri during prayer al- races belonging to a region in thesouth of the ways turn their faces in the direction of Mecca, the peninsula called Dravida, from peoples of thenorth birthplace of Mohammed. I have known them to turn who are of prehistoric origin, the race originally their backs on Mecca while engaged in their devo- coming from a region east of the Caspian in central tions, but never intentionally; it was on ship-board Asia. while theship was making a devious courseamong When we reach the primitive land of the Dravidians many islands. I prompted those in error as to direc- in southern India, we shall see other magnificent ex- tion with my pocket-compass, for which they thanked amples of Dravidian architecture. me. Mecca, towards which their faces areturned Poalaon 7. hp1 Poaltkn 8; Mmp l

I, ,.

i'

P- 44 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE AHMEDABAD 45

now, is sacred not only because it was the birthplace field, he hasor procuresa little water for purifica- of Mohammed, but becausein the great mosque at tion, thenspreads his prayer-mat, turns his face to- Mecca is the Kaaba, the most sacred shrine in the wards the Kaaba, bows .and prostrates, and silently re- Moslem world; it is a cubical structure forty feet on peats the prescribed prayers of the Koran. a side, and is believed to be a direct gift from God Possibly you did not expect to find ‘Mohammedans signifying that they are the chosen people. Within the in India. We hear so much about them in Turkey, in shrine is kept a heaven-sent stone (meteorite) which Egypt, and in Arabia, we are not unlikely to forget was once red (red-hot), but is now black with the sin that Islam extends over Persia, Afghanistan, and into and suffering of humanity. The house for it, sent by India. One charge against this religion is that it has Allah, is preciously inclosed in a great mosque with always been politically aggressive and made converts seven minarets. The Kaaba once contained three with the sword. Nine hundred years ago, the Moham- hundred and sixty idols which the Prophet destroyed. medans established themselves here in northern India, It is also believed to be the praying place of Abraham. and for several hundred years they held sway and ruled It is towardsthe Kaaba that the Mussulman turns the country during its golden age,* during the dynasty . his face when the muezzin calls to prayer. The prayer of the Mogul emperors, who were Mohammedans ; and today under the English there are well nigh sixty mil- of the Mohammedan is accompanied with many at- titudes, with bows, prostrations,and genuflections. lion followers of the boy who once was a shepherd He recognizes seven doors by which sin may enter and a camel-driver. the body, andthose sevenways are the seven gates This position showingthese men at prayer is not to hell ; they are :- The eyes, the ears, tongue, hands, a “posed” one as might be suspected. This is the feet, stomach, andthe organs of sex. To guard all regularafternoon observance of theritual require- those doorsrequires constant vigilance and peren- ments, and,although usually sincere, we cannot fail nial prayer. to notice twoon the line whose faces areturned The ritual of theKoran is very strict. It has five slightly awayfrom the Kaaba towards the photog- observances :- Ablution, prayer, fast, pilgrimage, and rapher; in these worshippers, as in the rest of man- tithe. No one canengage in prayers without first kind, “the spirit is willing but the flesh is weak.” I making his person and his garments clean. Every have told you that Mohammed destroyed thethree mosque contains a bathing tank; every traveling Mus- hundred andsixty idols in the Kaaba. He was op- sulman carries a chatty (water-vessel) with which he posed to all idols and images. A photographis an can perform his ablution before his devotions. His image-therefore, most Mohammedans are savagely fidelity in the observance of religious rites is quite re- opposed to beingphotographed; these men are ap- parently indifferent. A man attempting to photograph markable. He is evidently not ashamed of his ;e- a praying group of Mohammedans in Hebron, Pales- ligion; in whatsoever place he may be, on a railwav train, on a ship’s deck, in his room or in the opend tine, would be in considerable danger. ‘See “The Stmy of India;’ pages 345-349. Position 8. Map 1 ?o~ltkn8. Map 1 46 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE &OUNT ABU 47

There is no European hotel in Ahmedabad, but at tria $80, in Spain $60, in Russia $45, in India $7.50. the station, as in most large stations in India, one can What are the causes of this wide extent of poverty find eatingand sleeping accommodations. Anearly and misery ? Some say it was the many centuries of . morningtrain on the same railway bywhich we war before theEnglish occupation. Duringthose ’ traveled from Bombay, would take us one hundred and pcriods of continuous warfare the chiefs hoarded the twenty-five miles northward to a station near the base wealth of the state, and the vast wealth of the coun- of Mount Abu. Travelers leave the railway at Abu try is still with the few. There is probably no country Road and ride sixteen and a half miles by carriage up in the world where the rich are so rich and the poor to a famous mountain retreat four thousand feet above so poor. Another cause is probably the great amount sea-level.Close by the hotel at Mount Abu we can of money contributed for building shrines and temples. see a typical phase of native life. Still another cause is the great amount of non-pro- Position g. Primitive native Iìfe in India-Hindu ducing land. Scarcely fifty per cent of the arable land women grinding at the mills is actually under cultivation. All these causes are being When welook at these dirty, miserable people, removed under the English. poorly clad, half-fed, and not housed as comfortably as You see these women using the ancient home-made our cattle, I want to remind you that there are prob- hand-mill. I think they are grindingmillet; they ably more than one hundred millions conditioned like rarely canafford to use wheat. The millet meal is these inthis great and populous country. I refer to made into flat disks by adding water and possibly a the women grinding at the mills. trifle of ghee (buffalo butter). They are baked against The first thing that impresses one everywhere is the ;L fire made with dried cow-dung. number of poor. Then one wonders what can be the You wonder how people live ? Well, living is not cause. It has been estimated that ten millions sleep so difficult as many people think it is. Along with a theyear round underthe open sky. The average tllilletscone, these people will have a bowl of rice. earnings of a man and family, according to Bishop This food, in sufficient quantity, would be considered Thoburn, are five cents a day. Two dollars a month :IS possessing ample nutriment for a horse, then why is extra munificent as an income. One authority says not for a man? When we reach Benares I will show that forty millions go through life with too little food. you a miracle of muscular strength, who lives on just The entire costume of millions is only a dirty cotton suchfood. Such fare is pity-provoking to an Occi- rag about the loins. Sir Charles Elliott says that one- clcntal epicure, but those dusky youngsters appear as half theagricultural population from year’s end to plump and merry as Western “kids.” The trouble with year’s end do not know what it is to have their hun- these poor people is a lack of quantity, not of quality ; ger satisfied; yet it is only in time of famine that peo- fivc cents a day do not provide a great quantity of ple die of starvation. The average yearly earnings of millet. Neither is sleeping underthe open sky detri- a man in England are $175, in France $130, in Aus- mental to health, as people only now in the twentieth Porltlon 9. Map 1 Paltba 9. Wp 1 48 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE MOUNT ABU 49 century are beginning to learn. People hasten to ad- (IUS fuel will not reach the guests. Those millstones mit a little pure, fresh, oxygenized out-door air to the are probably made of granite, as the formation of sick-room, to revivify the weak or fainting,but the Mount Abu is of that rock. The receptacle holding fetid, de-oxygenized, microbe-laden indoorair is still the grinding stones is made of baked clay. The motive usually considered good enough for the comparatively power is yet far removed from electricity, it isnot well. Not a whit less rational would it be to provide stcam and neither wind nor water, but the most primi- good, fresh, and nutritious food forthe invalid, but I ivc of all, the human hand ; the hopper of the mill is let the well eat from the slop-bucket ; for I consider t Ilc same manual power. Not everything in sight is most indoor airan atmospheric slop-bucket. Starva- llltlian-the tableand tubs and wash-basins are ob- tion is not healthy, and, when these coolies have a suf- viously of western mould. A peep through the trees ficient amount of their simple food, they are as strong, hwsin the distance the rugged character of Mount and indeed stronger than the so-called well-fed. Their Ah, boulders and granite peaks standing out in mag- simple life does not then seem to prevent health and Iliticent chaos in every direction. Beyond the mill- strength. We readily admit, however, that, with the women we see some of the countless orders of ser- half-famished millions of India, life is too“simple”; v;mts connected with domestic service in this land of it is pitiful want and insufficient nourishment. cxte and many servants. The dhoby and the bheestie Calling yourattention for a moment again to the ( washerman andwater-carrier), stand by the small life before us, that woman in the white gauzy wrap, Imilding, and a variety of domestics are on the rock on the right of the second mill, is not a miller-she is Iwyond ; but should you ask me to enumerate the vari- only lendinga hand for amusement. She is an ayah OIIS classes and castes, I should be compelled to give (nurse) who caresfor children of abetter class, or IIW reply which Pizarro gave when asked for the size maybe of a European family. The true coolie woman I )C his army-“Count the leaves of the forest.” is invariably a “rag, a bone, and a hank of hair,” and usually up to the elbows in cheap glass bracelets. The Off to our right only a walk of ten minutes, there is feminine instinct for personal decoration is truly won- ;I Iwautiful little lake hemmed in by rugged peaks, derful.Isn’t it a climax of theabsurd to attempt to 4 ;~llcdGem Lake; the name must refer to the emerald, beautify these forms with jewelry ? Maybe it isa Cor thewater is emerald green.A charming prom- working-out of the law of compensation, but I think w;de surroundsthis lacustrine gem. At ,one point it would be better to invest in more millet. ;Itrlong cavernous boulders I found signs of a human That little tile-roofed stucco shed is not the domi- I~;~litation.From it emerged an ash-smeared, half- cile of these people-it is too pretentious ; that is the I.I;I(I and speechless man whom you are now to see for sleeping quarters of the hotel cook. The coolieslive yrbllrsclf. in rude straw-covered shacks, farther away from the hotel, where the smoke and smells from their odorifer- t

Porltloa 9. Mmp l I Porltlon 9. Map i 50 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE MOTJNT ABU 51

Position IO. Hermit at Gem &ake doingpenance, Now there are eight hundred thousand Mohammedan exposed to mid-day sun and intense fir-, Mt. fakirs in India, and over a million Hindus. Some are Abu sincere, but more are impostors. Some live in com- Howstrange are the eccentricities of thehuman munities, and others in solitude. They have generally mind ! This man is seated under a tropical, meridian succeeded in winning from certain classes some amount sun; that is not enough. He is, as you see, surrounded of respect and sometimes veneration. by fires of dried cow-dung which make a strong heat Self-sacrifice has been called thebrightest gem in with little smoke-he has placed a cloth over his mouth the Christiancharacter. Self-denial is usually a vir- and nose toguard against the smoke. Perspiration tue, and, probably forthat reason, penance in some trickles in streamlets down his body. Here he will re- forms elicits sympathy and respect;but in eastern main for a long period, perhaps two hours. He is countries there is so much impostureand there are doing penance. What must his sins have been to re- so many disgustingforms of self-mortification that quire this atonement! What a price to pay for a puri- sympathy is lost rather than won. We can enumerate fied heart! He lives in a cave a few feet away to our only a few :- Oneorder claims to observe ten of right. Gem Lake is close behind us. Before he roasts the proper qualities of the dog, viz., to be aIways hun- himself, he bathes in the lake, then covers his body with gry, to have no fixed place of abode, to watch during oil, then with fine cow-dung ashes. When he emerges the night, to leave no inheritance after death, not to from this furnace, he will apply another coat of ashes abandon his master although abused, to content him- and retire to his cave to partake of a dry crust-the self with the lowest place, to yield his place to any one donation of some passing almoner. Ten years ago he who wants it, to return to the person who has beaten took anoath of silence and since that timehas not llirn when offered a morsel of bread, to keep at a dis- spoken a single word to a fellow mortal. For thirty tance when someone is bringing him something to eat, years he has lived in this cave and for ten years he has and not to think of returning to theplace he has quitted not for aday failed in his self-imposed purgatorial while following his master. penance. Onetraveler claims hesaw a fakir in India who Along with most foolishness there is often some wis- never ate at all, that he carried a black stone which he dom. The vow of silence would be well for some oc- sucked instead of taking food, and that he was rolling cidental people. Such men asthis are known by dif- in obesity at forty years of age.Those black stones ferent names-hermit, anchorite, recluse, ascetic, would sell in New York ! Sometimes an original type fakir,fanatic and crank. These strange orders of of the genious fakir may be seen transformed ïnto a beings are generally called fakirsin India, and der- hrtnan wheel by tying his wrists to his ankles and vishes in Turkey, Egypt, and Persia. Mohammed was placing a bamboo into the angle formed by his knees opposed to monasticism andit was not practised by ;tnd elbows foran axle; makinga tire of chopped Mussulmen until six hundredyears after his death. straw, mud and cow-dung, which he binds along his Podtlen 10. Map 1 j, 52 ) INDIA THROUGH, THE STEREOSCOPE 5 MOUNT ABU 58

backbone,he starts on a journey of several years. formation, there is a famous temple more agreeable A brass cup for wateris hung on one end of the to look upon than an inckandescent hermit. We are to axle, and a hubble bubble on the, other; unicycles we take our stand now before that temple. sometimes see, but the unicycle humatzk belongs to the Position II. Dilwarra, thenoted Jaina Temple on East! In this way the fakir-wheel perambulates from the almost inacoeasible Mount Abu village to village, where crowds gather to wonder and This temple is remarkable not only for its situation, ,, t’ also to contribute their annas (small coin)in quan- but for its beauty, especially its beauty within, and in- tities sufficient to renew a punctured tire. Another teresting because it is a Jaina temple. Who are the form of penance is to keep the hands closed without Jains ? Well, a few words of explanation before we relaxing, year by year, untilthe nails growthrough proceed to studyone of their most wonderful andproject from the other side. Some place living shrines :- coals on their scalps till burned to the bone. Others The Jains have been considered dissenters from the bury themselves inthe earth for eight or ten days so-called orthodoxHindu faith. Theyignore the without food or water. Another method of obtaining Vedas which are the ancient books of revelation with sympathy and respect (or, as they would claim, of ac- theHindus. Theydo not believe in theSupreme quiringsoul-culture), is to hold a pieceof red-hot Being of the Hindus. They believe that the material iron between the teeth till it is cold. Hindu fakirs gu earth is eternal, that the mind of man and of all ani- entirely naked. Some of them are undoubtedly in- mals is eternal. They refuse to acknowledge anything sane; it is difficult to believe they are not all insane. which is not an object of the senses. They recognize Our tramps in theirperipatetic laziness are slightly nothing as superior to man. They believe that man is akin to the fakir mendicants; but the former do not capable of reaching a stage of elevation and perfec- often elect to nourish themselves on a “black stone.” tion worthy of worship. This highly spiritualized state Although the tramp element in our population is much is reached, they hold, not by good deeds, meritorious more criminal than the fakir craft in India, it shows works or noble lives, but by self-renunciation, by self- very little inclination towards any form of atonement. imposed physical suffering, by extravagant penance. It should be stated, before taking leave of this Both Hindus and Jains believe in penance; they be- strange example of the inexplicable vagaries of the lieve in spiritualization through physical suffering, human mind, that the fires by which he is surrounded hence their veneration for jogis and fakirs. (Gautama were only beginning to burn when this view was made himself was an ascetic andattained Buddhahood and that before his penance is concluded each heap through asceticism.) In this respect they coincide with will be a brilliant glow of coals. the Hindus. In thematter of asceticism, they have three orders. The first degree is reached by renounc- Two miles from Gem Lake, nestled among granite I ing one’s family, cutting off the hair, and wearing only I boulders,- at the foot of embossed ranges of the same clothes of a tawny color. The second order requires ,. palth 10. Mmp 1 porltlan 11. 1

’ I

.I I I 54 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE J MOUNT ABU 55 that all dress should be abandoned, excepta mere Temples. There isnothing imposing abouttheir ex- rag to cover nakedness, and that thehair should be tcriors. Theyare toonear nature’s vast temples of pulled out by the roots. He who would aim to reach rock to appear imposing without. Withholdjudg- the highest degree, called Nirvana, and which is akin tllent till you see within. They are built of pure white to divinity, must be entirely naked, eating only rice, marble transported for several hundred miles and up andthat only once intwo days. When man attains this rugged mountain. Nirvana, he is well-nigh a deity; he ranks with priests The more modern of these two temples was built and rajahs, or he becomes what we would call a saint, over six hundred years ago, or at the sametime as whose image may be placed in temples. The Jains, the tower of Pisa. The olderand nearer WELS built like Buddhists, are prone to honor theirsaints with when Peterthe Hermit wasexhorting for the first images and the more elevated the saint the larger the Crusade, over eight hundred years ago. Think of con- image or statue. veying such quantities of building material srne three The Jains believe in reincarnation. They are even hundred miles, and to the summit of this almost inac- more careful than the Buddhists about protecting the cessible mountain, several thousand feet high ! And, lives of animals; they eat before sunset, that they may when you have seen the interior, you will be at liberty avoid taking the lives of microscopic creatures; they to make comparisons between the building of this and sweep the ground or the table before eating, for the the building of the Pyramids. The clearing of the same reason. The Hindus have a ceremony by which ground for these temples cost $2,800,000. The build- to expiate the accidental taking of life; the Jains have ing of the temples cost $9,OOO,OOO andthe time re- . not, hence their great scrupulosity in that respect. quired was fourteen years. They discountenance szcttee, but a widow cannot marry. I must not fail to tell you that the main portion, the Mr. Harrington says that, “in general, Jainism is more most beautiful part of the temple, cannot be seen from metaphysical and less ethical than Buddhism.” In our this point; it is within that plain wall and consists of westernworld we seldom hear of thissect; but it what might be called a peristyle or double colonnade came into existence about 600 A. D. and began to de- of pillars, encompassing the temple on all sides. Be- cline about 1200 A. D. Formerlyit was considered hind the pillars of the peristyle are highly ornamental an off-shoot of Buddhism; later, as a dissension from cells, fifty-five in number, in solid white marble, each true Hinduism; now it is placed in a middle ground cell containing a marble image of some sainted Jain, between Hinduism and Buddhism. similar to those we shall see in the magnificent porch The Jains possess many beautiful temples in differ- from our next position, and similar, also to the cross- ent parts of India, and in a unique style of architecture legged images common in both Buddhistic and Jain which was developed about 450 A. D. One of ‘their temples. Notethe pyramidalupper portion, in SUC- temples is before us now, or rather we see two princi- cessive stories supported on columns. This is the chief pal temples combined in one and called the Dilwarra characteristic of the Jaina style. The charming pil- -MOD 1 1 Map 1 -11. nap i’ ._

b..* 56 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE MOUNT ABU 57

lared court within that rough exterior wall is ninety central cell is to the left of the image we see, and a by one hundred and forty feet; the farther and later portion of the mirror door we can barely see. A cor- temple is arranged after the same order. responding image is to the left of the door and dimly Notice the pastoral character of our surroundings visible. On either side of the central structureare here-aflock tended by a tiny,shock-headed Hindu somewhat similar porches. A double row of columns shepherd, buffaloes and the ordinary Indian bullock; surrounds the entire court, as observed from our last the cattle mostly white and the people all black. The position; I mention this a second time, because, now causewaybeyond that date-palmleads to the temple that you have seen some of these richlycarved col- entrance between the twobuildings, where a ticket umns, you will better know what two rows around the of admission must beshown. A series oflow build- entire court signify. Behind the columns are the fifty- ings at the left of the first temple serve as accommo- five cells afore mentioned. At the farther end of the dation for pilgrims. court and between the cells and the double tier of pil- It mustnot be supposed that these are the only lars is a series of monolithicmarble elephants with I temples on Mount Abu. There are many, and almost touches of effective color on their pure white marble. in any direction where suitable, reclusive places have Look at this maze of pillars in such endless variety been found about the mountain scarps there are more of design, in such delicacy of execution, and from this

temples. The Dilwarra are the mostcelebrated. Al- position we canonly see a few of the countless pillars ' though the surroundings have a peaceful aspect, there in this one temple ! The second and younger temple are eerie places among theserocks and mountains: is no lessmarvelous than this; and most wonderful hyenas abound, and, if you want fiercer game, a short and beautiful of all are the ceiling panels no two of stroll from this temple and youmay encounter the which are alike. The figures of birds, animals, and all leopard and the man-eater. forms of life maybe counted by thousands. It is a labyrinth of gauze and lace in pure white marble, or For a glance at the interior we will pass along that it maybe called a lithicpoem. Before this manifest stone causeway, turn to the left and down a flight of expenditure of money and labor, one is awed; and this steps, and take our stand in the portico. is only one of many Jaina temples in India. porpition 19. Warehippm befm an im2@3 in the Not far away in the plains below there are the ruins exquisitelp aund Temple of Vimala Sah, M#. of a Jaina city with temples much more extensive than Abu Dilwarra; both the city and temples were destroyed We are looking from the portico of the Temple of ing the Mohammedan inroads in earlier centuries, only Vimala Sah, the builder of the older of the two Dil- a few beautiful pillars remaining,such as thosebe- warra temples, towards the central portion or great fore us. cell containing a beautiful image of Parswanatha to One wonders how money for such costly structures whom the templeis dedicated. The entrance to the can beaccumulated in a country wherefamines are pomlom 11.12. Mq) 1 porttlanli lvLpt 58 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE AMRITSAR 59 common, and where poverty is universal. When I have poeition 13. India of tomorrow-handaorne school- referred to the wide extent of poverty, I have also men- boys of Amritsar, at the Golden Temple beside tioned the great wealth of India. Thereare many the Holy Tank wealthy men in theJaina sect, whose liberality is We have taken our point for observation at a very shown in the building of such temples as this. It sacred place in the city, by a sacred water and a sacred seems, in the Jaina, as in all other religions, worship temple. There is seated before us a school of Hindu too often takes the form of material offerings-tem- boys, or maybe I should say Sikh boys, for Sikh has ples and ecclesiastical shrines, while the least learned ;I peculiar significance to those who know the different and most simple should know that real worship is races of India; and there across the water is a won- the heart’s devotion. derful gate which leads to a sacred temple by a bridge Owing to the remoteness and inaccessibility of the partially in sight. spot where we are now, this temple is seldomfilled Before explaining further about this pool of water, with a great throng of pilgrims. At this moment only thegate and thegathering of sombre-faced boys, I a few are present; this is at an early hour, and it is must tell a little aboutthe Punjab province, its pe- not unlikely that the presence of the camera has caused culiar people, and the city of Amritsar. The Punjab some to retire. You see two kneeling with faces to- is a rich northwesternstate nearly as large as Eng- wards the mirrored entrance, within which are the rep- land and Scotland together, and much larger than all resentative images of their adoration, the sainted Par- the New England States. In ancient times it was the swanatha, Gomat Iswara Swami, and other eminent theatre of many conflicts ; in 300 B. C. Alexander the saints. In the presence of this bewildering ’maze of Great led his conquering forces beyond the Indus ,and sculpture one feels as though in the midst of snowy into the Punjab as far as the Hydaspes, a river now caverns hung with myriads of glistening stalactites, called the Jhelum) and it is supposed that the city of or buried and canopied by a witchery of interminable Jhelum is the place of thegreat decisive battle be- frost-work; yet, however beautiful and fascinating we tween Alexanderand Porus. In theyear 1100 the must part with this fairy-hall and move on to other Punjab was overrun by the Mohammedans. In 1469 scenes. therewas born in Nankanda on the banks of the Ravel river, one Nanak, who, like so many others, be- The general map of India should now be consulted came possessed with the idea that he was inspired, and in order to understand where we are to make our next began to teach, and while thus engaged was trans- observations. Leaving Mount Abu we travel northward ported bodily, as he claimed, to the gates of Paradise, fourhundred miles to Delhi, thence northwest three where he received a golden goblet of Awitu .(the hundred miles into the great northwest territory called water of life). Then God said to him, “Nanak, I am the Punjab. We are to halt at the chief city in that with thee, and whosoever shall follow thee shall be province, called Amritsar. happy, indeed.” Nanakhad’ beenin a trance, and Posltkn 12. Map l PO- 13. NI.p 1 60 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE AMRITSAR 61

when he awoke he uttered these words :- “In religion which we stand. The word Amritsar signifies “foun- thereis no Hindu,and there is no Moslem.” These tain of immortality,” the city taking the name given to words became the call-words of his religion, Nanak was the tank. This sacred reservoir was built in 1581 by soon regarded as a prophet, and was believed to work Ram Das, one of the Sikh prophets. It isover four miracles. Many accepted the call to his apostleship, hundred feetsquare. In 1761 a PersianShah de- and his followers were called Sikhs, which is the stroyed the temple and defiled both temple andthe Hindu word for disciple. This new prophet was il- pool with the blood of bullocks, but its virtues are re- literate, but one of his followers wrote a book giving stored so that now immersion in this water will, it is . an account of his teachings ;this book, or Nanak Bible, believed, absolve the vilest sinner. This manner of is called the Grutzth, or the Granth Sahib, and is writ- absolution issurely to be preferred to that of the ten in the Punjabi language. This sacred book of the Hindu fakirs, or the Jaina ascetics, particularly in a Sikhsis carefullypreserved in the Golden Temple, hot country like thePunjab, when the heatoften which is just at ourleft, and which will be shown from reaches 112” in summer. ournext view-point. Sikhism, saysHughes, is “a You canhardly believe that these gen0le-visaged pantheistic system similar to Hinduism,but reject- school-boys are to become the fierce Sikh warriors of ing the caste orders and idolatry.” whom the world has heard so much. The boy at the In 1708 a successor of Nanak,one Govind Singh, extreme left of the first row holds something in his succeeded inconsolidating theSikh religionists into hand and you will scarcely guess what it is. It is the a powerfulmilitary force. Amritsarhere became regulation Hindu school-boys’ slatemade of board, thecapital and militarycenter of the Sikhs, where fashioned as you seé it, and paintedon both sides. they numbered seventy thousand horsemen; and under Another boy nearthe center of the school holds a the vigorous rule of Runjeet Singh became a warlike similar boys’ instrument of torture. I mean the slate and formidable power. After the English occupation concomitant of fractions which, according to the old theSikhs ventured to make unprovoked attackson proverb, “drive me mad.” Severalteachers stand in them and were repeatedly repulsed; in 1849 they were the rear. I think those three wearing the snow-white finally dispersed at Guzerat, when thePunjab was turbans are teachers, because whatever else in a Hin- annexed tothe British possessions inIndia. Under du teacher’s attire may be at fault his headgear must the English theSikhs retaintheir ancient military be spotless. These boys are seated on a tesselated pave- prowess, and they are considered among the bravest ment of marble of different colors ;this beautiful pave- , and mostfaithful of England’s native soldiery. ment, twenty-four feet in width, surrounds the entire

‘ I have given this brief outline of the Sikhs and their pool, and is enlivened everywhere by vendors of beads, home-land because we are now in their most important miniatures and such-like. cityand before their most sacred shrines. Amritsar Now, I will direct your ‘attention to the superbgate- owes its chief importance to this tank of water beside way, almost rivalling the temple in size and beauty-

P~itloars.hlqp l Paaltlon la. Mmp 1

I’ - __ _ . 62 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE AMRITSAR 63

I mean that magnificent structure across the tank and Position 14. Fkkhat Amritsar, richest cì& of the to the left. It is through that arch and along that fine Pcrqiab-sonth acrom the sacred Tank to the marble causeway over twohundred feet in length Golden Temple. that the Golden Temple is reached. The doors of that Now we are before the famous Golden Temple. The arch under the gateway are plated with silver. Stairs great and beautiful gateway is hidden beyond the tem- lead to the Treasury rooms above, where can be seen ple. We are on the east side of the tank; the cause- thirty-one pillars of silver nine feet long and four and way is on the west side. Remembering that this “pool a half inches in diameter. In the Treasury room are of immortality” is four hundred feet wide, you under- also kept the ceremonial and processional articles in stand that the intervening water is about two hundred gold and silver-among them a canopy of pure gold feet across, and that is thereason why the gilded shrine weighing ten pounds and set with rubies, emeralds and is notbrought nearer. The Temple scarcely looks as - diamonds, also a diadem of diamonds with strings beautiful as the splendid gate and arch we saw from of pearls for pendants. All these are worn when the our last view-point. The lower portion of the build- Granth (the holy book) is carried in procession. ing is of white marble, but all above the line of white This gateway is on the west side of the holy tank; is gilded copper, givingall the sheen andglitter of beyond is a small square and on its east side is what polished gold. The splendor of so vast anarea of is called the Aka1 Bungah, a fine and highly ornate burnished gold is very effective. On those walls are structure with a gilded dome,now partially in sight chosen passages fromthe Granth, written in Pun- over the square building to the right of the gateway. jabi characters. In that building initiations into the Sikh confederacy There is an entrance on each side, but foreigners are performed. The riteof initiation is called fahal. are allowed to enter only on thenorth side. The In the pahal the novice drinksthe water that has splendor within exceeds the splendor without-there washed the feet of a Sikh prophet and also has some is a great extent of surface gleaming in gold; the walls sprinkled on his hair. There are other pahals equally are decorated with flower pieces. On the east side the extraordinary. The entire sacred enclosure is sur- great high priest, on an elevated seat, reads passages rounded by buildings for the accommodation of from from the Granth, which is placed on a costly ottoman five hundred to six hundred priests. undera silken canopy. Whenthe priest rests from theGranth lesson, he waves his gilded chauri (fly- We have been standing by the northern side of the whisk). During the reading many pilgrims seat them- tank. We will next move to the eastern side, so that selves about the holy book, and sometimes chant words the Golden Temple will be before us, and in line with from its pages accompanied by antique musical in- the causeway and the gateway which we have been con- struments. Cloths are spread upon the floor on which sidering. are cast offerings of flowers,money and cowries. Cowries are offered in great quantities. Most people

Porltloa 13. Map 1 64 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE LAHORE ,65 are familiar with the highly polished cowrie shell, in the early centu'ries. Milton refers to it in his verses, sometimes known asthe cornhaoneta because so and Ptolemy even mentions it as early as 150 A. D. widely used as money. These shells were once used in Very early writers say it was the resort of all nations. ancient Assyria, are still largely used in Africa, and Shiraz and Ispahan were famous Persian cities in the to some extent in the East Indies. The money-cowries days of the Mogul emperors, yet a saying of that time are chiefly from the Maldive Islands. Theyare still was that if Shiraz and Ispahan wereunited they would used for temple offerings. A century ago twenty-five not make one Lahore. In the time of its former great- hundredwere of the value of a rupee(fifty cents). ness this locality was on the highway between Persia In these days of better money units it requires five and the valley of the Ganges, or I may say between the thousand cowries to equal a rupee in value. Enormous near East andthe farEast, andthat naturally in- quantities of such shells are deposited by pilgrims on creased its trade and its wealth. While Amritsar was the floor of the Golden Temple. Sweetmeats are pre- the religious capital and center of the Punjab,.Lahore sented toforeign visitors, who are expected to ac- was and continued to be the political capital.. Since it knowledge receipt by a small contribution. A highly came into the possession of the English in 1849 it has decorated pavilion on the roof was formerly the seat assumed a new period of development, andthe of the, Guru(priest). A broom of peacock feathers suburban traces of the ruins of its former' greatness is used for sweeping this sanctum sanctorum of the have become a line of formidable defensive works, Sikh cult. forming an enceinte seven miles in length, which inti- mates that Russian or other invaders will meet some Amritsar is only forty miles eastward from another resistance in this direction should they succeed in forc- great and interesting Indian city; I mean the city of ing the Kyber Pass. Lahore. The general map of India shows its loca- The city before us is an important railway center, tion. For our first outlook over the city we shall climb with workshops covering one hundred and twenty-six to the top of an ancient wall and look down into one acres, and employing two thousand men. The canton- of the. principal native thoroughfares. ment, or military and European quarter, occupies the entireoutlying neighborhood, and embraces many Position xs. lhokìng (N.W.) down a etreet of orien- tal ghops and homes towards VaairKhan Mosque, beautiful gardens and private homes. The native city &ahore is centrally located and surrounded by a brick wall fif- It is said that in ancient times Lahore was a great teen feet in height. For our first place of visual study city of a million inhabitants; but there seems to be no I have chosen to look off fromthis wall. Modern record of its prehistoric greatness. Withinits his- buildings, however fine, need not engage our attention toric period its popuIation has dwindled to some- in India. We are in search of scenes peculiar to the thing like 180,000, yet thetraces of extensive ruins country,therefore have I chosen a native thorough- surrounding the modern city prove a greater Lahore fare in the native quarter. hk&M1GiS. m 1 66 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE WHORE $7

A typical Indian city aspect is what wehave not thus mon in every street, and some are very beautiful, but far had before us. And here in the heart of Lahore those are of the common order. We can only see the we look down into a typical street, in a typical town. towers of the Vazir Khan mosque. There are no bells The street is narrow, dingy, not too clean. The build- in those towers. The Moslems do not like to imitate ings are not of wood, nor of stone, and seldom of ex- the Christians in the use ofbells. An officialcalled posed brick. Over all India, indeed over most oriental themuezzin takes the place of a bell. He comes forth . countries, the building material exposed to viewis from a door in one of those minarets and chants in chiefly stucco. A soft kind of brick is in general use, a wailing voice five times every day a calï to prayet. but it is generally covered with stucco; here we can see While chanting, he places a finger in each ear, turns exposed brick, but the rule is stucco exposure. Floors hisface towards Mecca, and in weirdtones sends forth .\ and roofs are generally of stucco; cisterns and kitchen the. kann in the following words : “God most high’’ sinks are of stucco; bathrooms are.invariably floored (four times), “I attest there is no God but God; I with stucco; drains from sewers are lined with this ma- attest that Mohammed is the prophet of God; meto terial. Often the finest modern structures are finished prayer ; come to the temple of salvation (twice). in stucco. All this is possible because of the absence There is no God but God.” To the morning kann the of frost. Nearly everything in sight is stucco. So far words “prayer is better than sleep” are added after as building material is concerned, wemay call the “temple of salvation.” I am afraid some fairly good Orient a world of stucco. Christians will’ be inclined to doubt this morning ad- At this moment the street belowis not so full of dendum. life as at an earlier hour. To catch an instantaneous Do you observe there are no sidewalks in that street ; stereograph of moving figures in this dark street re- that in place of a sidewalk there is an open sewer; and quires a strong light from a meridian sun, and at mid- do you notice, over the sewer just below, a small bed- day most people retire to shady nooks ;those.we see are stead and another similar one on the roof of the sec- # of the middle and lower class. The rook family may ond building on the left? Those are frames on which always be seen in great numbers in every part of the to sleep and are called charpoys. A bedstead like the Orient; its members are very active and garrulous pil- one on the roof costs about fifty cents. ferers. It is often difficult to make a photograph that I came here about mid-day, so you may know from does not showsome of them. In this caseyou may shadows that we are looking about southwest. Fol- notice a poorlydefined specimen in mid-air near us. lowing to the coast in the direction in which we are Farther along the street, perchedin that projecting here looking, we shouldreach the busy port of balcony, you may see another, or apparently a larger Karachi; and following a line directly southward we bird, probably a kite, as they are numerous in all parts shouldreach Bombay. Towards the west we are in of the country. linewith Kandahar in Afghanistan, and eastward Have you noticed the oriel windows ? They are com- nearly in line with Lhasa in Thibet. malth lb. hp1 Porlqon lb. m 1 ,.

- - .. - ._. LAHORE 69 68 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

If we climb down from our place on the wall and small and in the form of flagons such as you can see turn in an opposite direction, walking only a short beyond the stand; those are used chiefly for carrying distance, we come to a curious native market, called a drinking water. They are made of porous clay which chatty-market. allows a very rapid evaporation, thereby rendering the water cool and drinkable. I think thatgroup under PO~itìonr6. Rival pot-sellers ìn the chatty-market, &ahore theshelter of thatch are preparinga meal inchat- ties ; for a moment their attention has been distracted Here we areamong the offered wares. A chatty by the photographer. is a vessel common to the entire Oriental world ; it ap- Such. earthen vessels are inexpensive ; one of those pears to be a sirte qua non of existence. It is one of near at hand should not cost more than two cents. We the most useful and indispensable articles in India; its cansee from this point only a small portion of this various uses are beyond enumeration, as are its forms market, and it is only one of many chatty markets in and sizes. It is essentially and originally a vessel for the city. The great demand for theseuseful articles holdingand carrying water;but it is used to hold andto carry everything. It is made from all ma- may be understoodfrom statistics which show that r there are engaged in the manufacture of this form of terials, but generally of clay or brass. It combines earthenware in India one-half million persons. One the use of the pail, the bucket, the basket, the bag, the castecannot eat from vessels used by othercastes; jug, the kettle, the oven, the wash-bowl and the bath- it would cause personal defilement and loss of honor. tub. You see a variety of then1 here in themarket. If, as is claimed, there are in the Brahman caste alone The large ones on the ground are earthen; those on one thousandeight hundred and fifty-six divisions, thestand are of brass.Such vessels are sometimes even used as boats-I do not mean singly, but by tying caste surely favors the chatty trade. “It’s an ill wind two or three or four or as many as necessary under that blows nobody good.” boards lashed together a strong raft is made in a few Many of the different sects and castes have a dis- lnintltes. Theyare sometimes used for head-covers tinguishing mark called the sectarial mark, usually on when the heat of the sun is intolerable. One inverted the face. Do you notice that these three men nearest over another forms a good oven. Water is boiled, rice to us have each a white line on the nose and a light is cooked, bread is baked, and milkis churned in blotch in the center of the forehead? That is undoubt- chatties. Brass chatties are more stylish and of course edly their sectarial or caste mark. more expensive ; natives traveling by railway alwa,ys 8 carry achatty, ,often a brass one. Mussulmen must I We shall now leave the native city and find another have their chatties at hand for ablutions five times a position in the cantonment where we can see an an- day before prayers, and they cannot drink water from tique gun which did effective work in its time at the game of War. .vessels used by a “Christian dog.” We see many sizes and many kinds; some are very largeand some are hltlon 16. Map l Porrtbn 16. M8p l , 1 ,. ..I. 70 INDIA THROUGH THE STEPEOSCOPE LAHORE

! poeitìon 17. SeiSure and gossip by the old Zamza- in defiance of municipal orders-astride the gun Zam- mah gun that roared in Indian war8 foar han- zamah on her brick platform opposite the old Ajaib- l dred years ago, &ahore gher-the Wonder House, asthe natives call the i This huge old bronze gun, as you may see, has been Lahore Museum. Who holdZamzamah, the ‘fire- 1 retired and honored with an elevated platform which breathing dragon,’hold the Punjab; for thegreat .l we may consider a pedestal. Retired of course because j green-bronze piece is always first of the conquerors’ l its days of usefulness are over-it hasbeen super- l loot. There was somejustification for Kim (he had a. I ceded by the more effective breech-loader of modem kicked Lola Dinanath’s boy off the trunnions), since I days, as the automobile has supersededthe stage-coach, the English held the Punjab, and Kim was English.” I or the reaper the scythe and sickle. It has, however, Does it not seem quite wonderful that a gun becomes 1 not been retired as many effete and antiquated war- famous as well as a personbecause of all it has done ? 1 guns have been; it has been elevated to this conspicu- That because Zamzamah has been a passive slayer of l ous place of honor beside a great popular thorough- i men, she has acquired a celebrity-andalmost a 4 fare where it can be seen by all persons. Like other veneration throughout the entire world ? Is it not “big-guns” it hasbeen honored with titular distinc- further surprising, thatinPersia or in India one hun- ~ tions ; it has been called “the hummer,” “the roaring dred and fifty years ago there were foundries capable lion,” “the fire-breathing dragon.” In 1761, nearly of casting a bronze piece of these proportions ? You a century and a half ago, it roared for the Afghans at willobserve that the carriage has a third wheel, and 1 Paniput ; in 1818, more than fifty years later it roared that all theparts are highly ornamented as well as against the Afghans at Multan. That grim old muz- powerfully constructed. zle has dealt forth so much of death, has roared so We see amongst this band of wallahs (fellows) one often and so loudlyin many wars, that it became a under the axle, and can almost imagine liim to be the , proverb-”Who holdsZamzamah (The roaring lion) same that Kim knocked off the trunnion, were he in a . controls the Punjab.” The Sikhs called it the Bhan- less composed state of mind and less observant of the gianwali Top, whichsignifies the cannon of the photographer. Couldwe turn to our left we should Bhangi confederacy. After the battle of Multan, it face the fine structure which the natives call the Won- was placed at the Delhi Gate of Lahore, where it re- der House, that is, the Museum, and it truly contains mained for over forty years, when it was removed to many exhibits wonderful to a traveler from the west- its present place of honor. ern hemisphere.Back to our right is a finemodern The fame and historic interest of this old gun have cruciform cathedral; indeed the street by which we are been further increased in recent years by the pen- standing is flanked by many imposing up-to-date edi- craft of Kipling, who has locatedincidents in Kim fices, so that one is constantly surprised to find in far- just here by the old “hummer.” If you have read th& away points of far-away India so much that is abreast fascinating story you will remember this :- “He sat, of the times. But we must forego many points of -at-

~~ 11. NI., l porttka W. um 1 , 72 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE JHELUM RIVER 73

traction such asthe house occupiedby Kipling, the throughthe enchanted vale of Cashmere, constitutes Fort,the sadtomb of Anar Kali, thefavorite of a a unique journey never to be forgotten. The map harem who was buried alive because she was seen to shows the road followed. Thereare dak-bungalows smile at the approach of a prince whom she was for- (government rest-houses) at every stage of the jour- bidden to love; also the Shalimar Gardens and many ney, where food and lodging can be obtained. I can- other charming places in this capital of the Punjab. not but regret that, for us, it is possible to stay at only Againthe general map should be referred to and one point in the winding and romantic course of the Lahore located. We continue our journey northwest- Jhelum ! our one halt is to show you a primitive style wardfor one hundredand seventy-four miles to of bridge by which thedashing current is crossed. Rawalpindi, the largest military station in India. From The spot where we are to take our stand is marked Rawalpindi our course turns from northwest to north- 18. You see the diverging red lines reach only a short east, for we mustnot leave Indiawithout seeing distance acrossthe river, indicating a limited range something of the renowned vale of Cashmere. The of view. first stage of the way is thirty-seven miles, which takes us to a very popular mlountain retreat called Murree. Position 18. Crossing the boiling floods of the Murree is the great northernsanitarium of the Punjab. Jhelum river by a bridge of one raw-hide rape at Barracksfor soldiers and villas for civilians are Wrì, Cashmere nestled everywhere on commandingsummits and Since leaving Murree we have covered one hundred shady slopes at a general elevation of seven thousand and thirty-three miles of the distance to our destina- feet, thehigher peaks reaching nine thousand feet, tion in Cashmere. We are now neara station called with the snowy range of the Himalayas in the dis- Uri where the road has reached a lowèr level in the tance. river's tortuouspassage from the mountains to the plains inthe Punjab, and where the mountaineers Now turn to the special map of that region (Map cross the stream. I have called this a bridge; it may 4). Murree you will find nearits western limits. At be a misapplication of the term, and if you choose you Murree thetraveler is booked for Cashmere by a may call it just a river-crossing device; but, however through tonga service, a distance of one hundred and designated, it is an interestinggauge of human ninety-five miles. The usualtime is three days. One progress, when we compare it with the mighty spans hundred and ninety-five miles in a mountain tonga (a of steel andwire which characterize our modern ponderous, jangling, two-wheeled cart) is a novel ex- bridges. perience in itself, but following a highway excavated Amongthe Himalayasseveral kinds of primitive along the perpendicular walls and gorges of the dash- bridges are in use; there are two kindshere before ing Jhelum riverfor over a hundred miles, andthis us now. The one we see inuse consists of a single succeeded by a gallop of more thanthirty miles strand of raw-hide rope made fast to either shore by PaltIon 18. Map 4 Pomltbn 18. hp4 74 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE JHELUM RIVER 75

\ an anchorage of stone, and then elevated and supported crossed, but would not allow myself to be bound to by a few rude sticks. A saddle or carrier is made from the saddle, as I felt there was more risk in the weak- the crotch of a tree inverted over the rope ; a, loop of ness of the raw-hide rope than in the possibility of rope is attached to each pending arm of the saddle; falling out of the saddle;therefore I chose in either L through these loops the legs of thepassenger are case to depend on swimming free from any entangle- thrust, while his hands clutch the projecting top of the ment. By a mis-adjustment of the puIl-cord I was saddle. A small pull cord extends from the saddle to kept for several minutes suspended out over the shoot- a bridge-tender on each side of the river. Sometimes ing current, where I feltmost comfortable when I the passenger assists the pullers by a hand-over-hand looked skyward and away from the gleaming water. effort on the carrier rope ;then again one hand is used I donot recommend theadventure for nervous nor to balance his position while with the other he favors for vertiginous travelers ! the puller as in the case before us. You see the pull- To sit for a time on the bold rocks behind where we cord depending from the carrier-rope to which it is standand witness the conveyance of goats and pigs attached by rings. across this one aerial strand would afford diversion of The facilities of thiscurious transport service are an unusual kind : the binding of obstreperous animals not confined to passengers; bags, baskets, bundles and to the saddle, the wriggling and floundering in mid- all sorts of produce and commodities, also the smaller air, accompanied by the melody of pig-squeals and kinds of live stock, such as sheep, goats, pigs and poul- goat-bleats, constitutes a Himalayan combination con- try, are attachedand carried over. Cattle are taken cert and tableau, ludicrous and rare. to a point on the river where the current is less violent, By this time you are wondering what are those huge, and are made to swim, while the driver or owner of ragged strands suspended across to the right and up the animal holds fast to the tail, where he performs the river from the one I have been describing. They the dual function of helm and pilot. are the remains of a former bridge of a type somewhat Thecurrent in thisgorge now is running twenty different and still not uncommon amongthe lower miles an hour, as you may believe if you will notice Himalayas. It was, when in use, morenearly in the the blurred appearance of the water, and yet this is an form of a true bridge than the single rope, but which instantaneous stereograph. With deep waterrunning of the two bridges claims priority of use or invention, at this velocityyou can easily understand how there mountain annals (traditions) offer no testimony. The- is a sense of insecurity to a giddy-headed person in old bridge was formed by two heavy cables of twigs making this suspended transit. There is one pro- or withes, bound and interlaced to a thickness of about vision against liability of losing one's hold; a rope or five inches; those were held apart and supported by strap is sometimes used to lash the passenger to the transverse sticks which can be seen still dangling from saddle. the unbroken cable. For the foot-way, sections of split For the benefit of the experience I crossed and re timber or bamboo were placed at stepping distances on hitkn 18. Map 4 4 _. Pubm lß. ntp 76 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CASHMERE 77

the cables. Over this sagging, wind-swung affair the Position 19. Wayfarers on astraight thirty-mile mountaineers passed to and fro as did their ante- road lined with stately poplars-Baramula to cedents, back I suppose for milleniums. Whenthe Srinagar old suspension bridge failed, this single rope followed, Have you ever seen a prettier vista of arbored shade, but whether, as aforesaid, it may be considered a pro- or a road so straight and so closely lined with tall and gression or a retrogression in bridge structure, I know graceful trees ? We did not see such in the plains of not. At other points on the Jhelum they use yet India; they belong to amore northern latitude, or another kind of rope bridge, which consists of three togreater altitude. Thesetrees have a familiar ap- ropes, one for the feet, and one for each of the hands. pearance to me. They recall early schooldays; for This I found to be the most secure and the most prac- hard by the old school-house stood two of these tall, ticable. prim poplar trees. They werethe school-ma’am’s There are patches of cultivation on favored slopes court of appeal; they furnished the switches, and I amongthe mountains far above and beyond those have never ceased to be grateful for the benevolent granite walls of theriver, and anysurplus of the \ brittleness of poplar twigs. Every school-boy knew . scant products of the mountain dwellers is brought to thetender quality of poplar shoots, and when de- the highway along which we are traveling, for a mar- spatched to bringin the usual instrument of penal ket. It is said that one human life a year is the average suasion, he knewwell how to favor anunfortunate annual sacrifice in thetransit of one of these sus- colleague in the choice of a lenient switch. So you pension bridges. see to this time I have not forgotten the tender mercies Trace the road approximately eastward on our local of the poplar tree. How then can I resist, in the map and thirty miles beyond Uri you find the town of presence of this charming avenue of poplar trees, call- Baramula. There the table-land of Cashmere begins, ingyour attention to thefact of this great indebt- and there the Jhelum has had to force a passage of edness ? the mountains before it could dash for one hundred Think of a gallop of ten miles, then a relay of horses, and fifty miles through continuous winding gorges to and off again for another ten miles, a second relay for the plains in thePunjab. At Baramulathe traveler athird ten miles in a noisy but not uncomfortable usually rests for a night and in the morning with a tonga, and all the while between these walls of grate- fresh relay of horses, mounts another tonga and starts ful shade; andas we dashed on we could peer out on the last stage of thirty miles over the vale of Cash- through these aligned trunks into fields of cultivation mere. Throughoutthe entire distance theroute is quite unknown in the hot plains of India. Along both alonga poplar lined avenue to the country’s capital, sides of this road are rich fields of wheat, barley, rice thequaint city of Srinagar. At the spot marked 19 and maize; there are yellow patches of ripening flax, we are to take our standand look along that tree- which remind one of the time when home-made linen bordered roadway. was in the order of domestic life in rural homes. We Poritlom 18-19. Map 4 Porltbn 19. Map 4 78 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE VALE OF CASHM6EI(E 79

have left the flora of the plains for that of the tem- deliverance, when, no matter how great the number perate zone. We see no more the palm, the mango, the of pursuers, they flee in mortal fear; for this reason acacia, the banyan andthe sacred bo-tree. We have they are excellent people among whom to dwell, to been suddenly transportedfrom the tropical tothe give a man confidence in his own prowess. temperate, and our old dendra1 friends are everywhere Does it not surprise you to see a smooth stone road -the maple, the pine, the spruce, the elm, the chest- shaded by trees and extending for a distance of thirty nut,and such gladsome old fruit-tree neighbors as miles, andthat in a mountainregion until recently the pear, apple, peach and the plum. Where these trees inaccessible to wheeled conveyances ? Does not this of hardy fruits flourish, it is scarcely necessary to tell beautiful highway recall the time of Lalla Rookh, and you that the climate is bracing and salubrious. I wish make one to wonder whether the princess passed here that for a moment you coùld step between those white- on her eventful journey? trunked poplars, to look north or south to theblue line of serrated mountains which bound this famous plain But here we are hemmed in, and our view is ob- extending eighty miles from east to west and twenty- structed, therefore we will hurry on over the last ten \ five from north to south. , miles of our tonga journey, pass through the ancient At this point we have before us a few Cashmerians, capital, Srinagar, and climb to the summit of a height who are seemingly engaged with us in a sort of mutual where we shall obtain an unobstructed view of a small inspection. The two on either side of the way are of portion of the Vale of Cashmere-famous in song and the merchant class, dressed much like the Hindus of fiction. Map 4 marks our next position with the num- the plains in huge turbans and in what might be called ber 20 and indicates that weshall have a long out- in our country ample and unconcealed shirts. If not look southwestover the country. This position is graceful, they are surely not uncomfortable in warm given also on a special map of Srinagar, Map 5, which summer weather. The Cashmerians are tall and dark you should now see. l like theircongeners of theplains; they are said to possess physical beauty; but, if this must be admitted, their physicaLbeauty cannot be disassociated with phy- 1, sical cowardice. An uplifted European fist will put to “The Vale of Cashmere, ! flight half an acre of these turbaned stalwarts. They With its roses the brightest that earth ever gave, are aggravatingly persistent salesmen ; Europeans on Its temples and grottoes, and fountains as clear their arrival are pursued most relentlessly by trades- As the love-lighted eyes that hang over their wave.” men offeringtheir wares. They will not recognize I We have ended our thirty-mile ridein the moun- I anyordinary and polite refusal to buy; they follow at tain tonga; we have passed through the city of the the heels of a new-comer in great numbers until he .is Sun (Srinagar) to the outskirts, and ascended a rocky III compelled to resort to a personalattack for his own elevation called T~k&-&Sdeiman,which means the 4’ h1u.B 19. 4 p.dm 20. -4-8 II S-- . ,..,- ,. c-- ., . n I i 80 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE VALE OF CASHMERE 81

Throne of Solomon. Surely have we never thusfar I have referred to the many-shaded squares in the in our itinerary taken up a position either so high or landscape;those dark spaces aregteen, and the so honorable as that we now occupy on the Throne of lighter shades are caused by differentcrops or dif- Solomon. The occupant ofa throne can seldom be- ferent stages of maturity in the crops. You will 'notice hold the splendor of his own gilded seat; so with us ; tall lines. of poplar trees by the river and along the. our splendid Takkt rises nearly a thousand feet above roadsides, showing that Jehangir, in whose reign they theoutstretched vale. Thearms of our Iofty throne were introduced had a predilection for this species. are spurs of ruggedgranite such as you see to our You will notice also fruit-treestoward the river- right; the back is an ancient temple perched on the whether peaches or apples we cannot at this distance highest point; and the ample robe which overspreads determine. I know, however, thatnot far to the our royal seat extends farand wide in variegated right there is a large apple-orchard which at this time fields of every hue. is bending with fruit. I know also of a peach-orchard This then is our position; and from it we are look- a few hundred yards farther to the right, laden with ing southwest over the graceful windings of the river unblemished beauties. In the same direction lies also Jhelum. Those sinuous turns characterize this stream the cantonment or European suburb, where the Eng- for a great portion of its course through the valley; lish Residency, church, library, and a good hotel are they are mentioned in history andregistered in art; located. Those houses at the foot of our Throne are in au books on Cashmere wefind reference tothe native homes of the middle class and the large native winding Jhelum, and in art it is claimed that the leaf city of Srinagar, containing nearly 120,000 inhabitants, pattern in the well-known Cashmere shawl was taken lies in the same general direction to our right. from this bend in the river's course. This may be true Down the river, towards our right and only a few or it may not. Tradition and truth are often so inter- hundredyards below, we should find many family mingled thatauthentic history is an attainment of boats called house-boats, because they have all house- great difficulty. It is not difficult, however, to see the keeping accommodations; they are chiefly used by correspondence of form,and, as some writers claim Europeansduring the summer season. Many lan- that this capital was founded as early as 59 A. D., its guishing, heat-exhausted Europeansfrom the plains antiquity may justify the claim to the river-bend origi- come up here to Cashmere to find a health-restoring nation of the leaf-pattern in the Cashmere shawl. The retreat.Some bring tents and othersengage house- interminable sinuosities of this river form miles of boats for the season; in these boats they find all the Hogarth's line of beauty. If the secret of beauty in retirement and comfort of a private home at a mod- form liesin the double curve, as maintained by Ho- erate expense. Such. floating homes are always in garth, then we understand why the eye is pleased charge of a native family, who perform all housework by the continuity of double curves in the windings of andnavigate the boat (whenthe house becomes a this famous stream. boat), to any desired place throughout the entire val- I 82 INDIA THROUGH STEREOSCOPE THE SRINAGAR -- 83 ley, the whole plain being intersected by streams and on the bank of the Jhelum. We may call the level canals and forming a sort of a vastly extended Venice. 1 1 space the left of that straight ?venue the play- You can partially imagine the magnificent command on of our vision from this point.Could we remove the .- ground of the cantonment, as it is there all games and haze which at the present moment obscuresthe horizon, sports are held. It is often called the polo-ground, and turn our gaze in other directions then we might see for it is where that popular equestrian game is played. The river is but a few yards to the leftof that ground, the glistening snows on giant peaks which stand sen- tinel along the mountainwalls and hemin on every and at the farther side, on the left, you can see a por- side this dreamyvale. We are in sight of the main tion of the artificialbank of the river. The tonga- road passes at theleft between the polo-ground and the Himalayan range, the Kara-Koram range and the bank of the river. You notice white lines intersecting Hindu Kush range, and from each range are loom- this common in every direction-those are foot-paths, ing up and piercing the sky many peaks over 20,000 the first to the right leaving the avenue beyond the feet high. Mount Godwin Austen, the monarch of all great chenar trees, leads to and along the right bank the surrounding peaks, rises over 28,000 feet; Agram of the river to some European shops, and then on- 25,000 feet, and northward is Nanga Parbat over ward tothe nativecity. The second path leads to the * 26,000 feet; then eastward is Harmamakh, nearly 17,- tonga and post-offices, also near the bank of the river. O00 feet. Such a circle of snowymountain mon- A commodious, modern and well-managed hotel stands archs can be found in no other quarter of the world. back in the open space to the right of the road. From the hotel a path leads across the polo-ground to the For an outlook in another direction from this same English Residency, to the Club and Library, all on the eminence we turn to the right and descend the slope right bank of the Jhelum. Wherever may be found to the spot marked 21 (Maps 4 and 5). We are to even a limited control by England you the be about two hundred feet higher than the surround- will find ing valley,and to look directly westward over what Residency, the home and office of a Government of- ficialcalled the Resident, whose duty it is to watch we have called the Land of Lalla Rookh. and guard the interests of England. Position ar. The &and of &dIa Rookh-westward A few words of Cashmere history may not be amiss from the 88Throneof Solorrron”-Srinagar, Cash- at this point. To most people it is a far-away, little- mere known mountain country something like Thibet, but We are still looking over the cantonment, but now of course it is like Thibet only in her remote eleva- towards the native city which we partially see among tion. For several centuries this land was ruled by the trees in the distance. We are three-fourths of a Hindu princes, who weresucceeded by Tartars. To- mile from the heart of the native quarter; but we can wards the end of the fifteenth century the Great Mogul see the upper portion of the palace of the Maharajah Emperor Akbar annexed Cashmere to his Indian Em- far away at the right. The palace is centrally located pire and built a strong fortress on the top of a hill Porltloa 21. Map# 44 PaaIUon ti. Mmp 4-8 84 INDIA THROUGH THE STEhcOSCOPE

nearly as high as this Throne of Solomon where we harajah Partab Singh is required to maintain an army stand. The hill crowned by Akbar’s old fort might sufficiently strong to defend his frontieragainst any still beseen from where we stand, couldwe turn a possible invasion from the north. This seems to be little to the right. Akbar was succeeded by Jehangir, essentially the extent of England‘s nominal sovereignty to whom Cashmere as well as other parts of his empire over Cashmere and in connection with which the Res- are indebted for many commendable innovations, idency already referred to is maintained. among them the planting of trees and the making of We see again the Jehangir poplars-as we may call beautiful gardensand pleasure grounds. Magnificent them, since he first introduced them to beautify roads old plane-trees-called chenar trees in Cashmere-are and water-courses. Only two or three years ago’rows still seen, which were first introduced by that enter- of venerable trees lined that avenue but we see now prising ruler. Note the two great umbrageous chenar theyoung trees which have taken their places. Just trees just across the bridge below; those and many below we see one of the many canals which intersect ’ others in the vicinityowe their existence hereto the city andits surroundings and give to it its Ve- Jehangir. In 1753 thecountry fell intothe hands of netian character. This canal emerges from the beau- chiefs from Cabul. In 1819 the Cabul usurpers were tiful and historic Da1 Lake, which is only a few hun- driven out by a general under Ranjit Singh, and, when dred yards to our right, and empties into the Jhelum the English conquered the Sikhs in 1846, a treaty was twohundred yards tothe left.Notice the graceful made in which Cashmere was assigned to Golab gondolas of thisHimalayan Venice. Market boats Singh; since that time the country has been under the also pass this way between the lake and the city bear- rule of the Singh dynasty, which has always proved ing all sorts of vegetables grown on floating gardens faithfulto English sovereignty. Duringthe great in the lake. Da1 Lake has been rendered so famous Mutiny the Singh ruler sent a military contingent to in the celebrated romance of Lalla Rookh that I must assist the English at Delhi; they showed their loyalty not fail to refer to it here. Not great in area, it is in the same way during the Afghan war. only five miles in length and two and a half in width, A descendant of the Singh line is ruler at the pres- but its background of towering mountains which mir- ent time and is known asMaharajah Partab Singh, rortheir sparkling snows in its crystal-clear water G.C. S. I., Major General in the British Army. You and its foreground of a level, fertile plain, extending will remember thatRanjet Singh,the great slilcl.1 to an opposite range twenty miles distant give a leader was known as the “Lion of the Punjab.” De- charming Alpine setting. In certain partsthere are scendants of the “Punjab Lion” still rule Cashmere ; acres lotus pink-tinted flowers from to fromanother view-point (Position 26) youwill see of with six MaharajahPartab Singh himself. In consideration eight inches in diameter, and, as one is paddled in his of the practical independence granted to Cashmere by canopied gondola amongst the lake fields of gorgeous England in thetreaty following theSikh war, Ma- bloom, he is free to pluck and fill his boat with the massive and exquisitely colored floral CUPS. The sur- PoslUoo 21. Mnpm 4-8 Position 2t. M.pr 4-6 86 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SRINAGAR 01. face of thewater is almost hidden by the broad I floating leaves; the flowers stand high above the insome degree meets the glowing descriptions of water and sway gently in the breeze. Imagine then Moore in Lalla Rookk. There is cbrrsiderable of the flower romance of floating through a wide lake of ornamental splendor and sensuous beauty at the pres- such glorious inflorescence. In certain places along ent time-bowersof roses, crystal streams, nightin- , the shore the lake has become so filled with water gales, fragrant groves made radiant by oriental vegetation that a person may walk upon the surface, houris, as conceivedby the fancy of the great Irish , whichhas the springiness and resilience of a wire melodist, would scarcely be an exaggerated embellish- mattress; such parts havebeen made into floating ment for modern conditions. There are deep, fragrant gardens. The matted surface iscovered with rich groves, there is a luxuriance of roses in the Shalimar earth and on it all kinds of vegetables of excellent Gardens; I believe there are nightingales ; the source quality are grown. Think of agardener tilling his of the lake is a clear mountain stream, indeed every ground and experiencing all the while the uncanny mountain gorge is rollicking with crystal fountains sensations of seismic vibrations ! The vegetable mar- or glacial streams. And amidst such surroundings ‘\ kets of Srinagarare supplied largely from these float- it is not difficult to imagine the arrival of Nur Mahal ing gardens. after the splendor of her departure from Delhi, and Another curious feature of the lake is its pro- her romantic journey, and the surprise that awaited duction of an edible nut. I have already mentioned her at the steps of the palace by the lake.* floating through acres of lotus; in other places you “Oh ! to see it as sunset when warm o’er the lake would pass through acres of thick-matted vegetation Its splendor at parting a summer eve throws, which in the sea one would call sea-weed; it produces Like a bride full of blushes when lingering to take a delicious nut called the water-chestnut ; this is dried A last look at her mirror, at night ere she goes.” and ground into meal, one pound of which is sufficient It is a common saying that true love never runs fora day’sfood. While your boatman paddled you smooth; an occasional quarrel seems to be the normal through this field of under-water chestnuts, he would order of the heart-uniting process ; even Jehangir and occasionally lift for you on the end of his paddle a his “Harem’s Light,” the lovely Nur Mahal had .a tangled clump and place it in the boat that you might quarrel and a reconciliation, and romance has it that pick and open chestnut burrs such as you have prob- the emperor enjoyed the intense delight of making-up ably never seen before. All the while the boat would in the same old garden. Moore has immortalized the be gliding upon sparkling water, the issue of a moun- tain spring. “And well do vanished frowns enhance It was undoubtedly on a part of that lake that the The charms of every brightened glance ; gardens and palace of Jehangir were situated. The And dearer seems each dawning smile present ruler maintains a summer retreat there, which For having lost its light awhile; Podtlon 21. Mepe 4-5 SRINAGAR 89

And, happier now for all her sighs, As on his arm her head reposes, it hasbeen named ; it might more appositely be termed She whispers him with laughing eyes,- the city of filth andintolerable stenches. I suppose ‘Remember, love, the Feast of Roses.’ ” the trifling matter of cleanliness is scarcely a thing to Turning again tothe scene before us you see a be considered in bestowing titular designations. number of giant pla,ne trees. A grove of such trees Worthyor unworthy,its great name-sake deigns to is called a bnglz, and there are many umbrageous baghs flood it with bright sunshine a good part of the year, aroundSrinagar. Across that field to theright, and as may be seen from the verdant roofs everywhere in on a clea,r streamflowing from Da1 Lake, is Chenar sight. This is one of the curious features of the city Ragh, another to the left on the banks of the Jhelum -the houses are wooden or wood and clay, and almost is called Munshi Bagh; both these groves in the sum- uniformly covered with earth which soon becomes over- mer contain tents of season sojourners. By remem- grown with grass, so from an elevation the houses be- bering then the house-boat facilities, the tenting baghs, come a bird’s-eye expanse of grass-patches. The city and that large and well-kept modern hotel which you lies on both sides of us, i.e., on bothbanks of the see on the right, the deterrants of a trip to the land Jhelum which follows itswinding course for two of Loh Rookh are quite removed and replaced by miles within city limits and is crossed by seven bridges, incentives. al similar to this except one, which is of stone and iron. The houses of wood and mud are usually win- Yet our idea of the city of Srinagar will not be cor- dowless, dilapidated, ramshackle affairs,dirty within rect if we judge altogetherfrom old imperial con- and without and populated with entomological millions ditions aspictured by romance, or from the modern who dispute bed and board with the nominal owners. Europeanizedoutskirts, or fromthe natural charms Thereare better housesthan these before us, but of mountain streams or lotus-covered lakes; there- these are typical; even the large and pretentious tem- fore, wewill follow that straight tree-lined road into ples are oftengrass-roofed, while other parts of the the heart of the native city, and stand where our Map same structures may show ornamentationin wood- 5 shows thenumber 22 in red, upon the right bank carving of considerable merit. Thisquaint bridge is of the Jhelum. The river there is spanned by a Primi- self-explained, hand-made or ax-made, buttressed with tive log-built bridge, and every prospect, if not pleas- interlocked timbersanchored by enormousquantities ing, is typical of the old Cashmere capital. of stone. Mechanical lines are ignored; beauty is not Position 22. Every-day life in the Vale of Cash- considered;a means of transit is the only object to mere, quaint bridge and houses in the City of the be attained. There is a big gap in the road of progress Sun between this bridge and the great modern structures This thenis the City of theSun, asit has been of the outer world ; yet there is no .inconsiderable gap called in poetic fancy; but you will readily see it has between this and the single-rope bridge shown you on little of the spIendor of the great luminary after which our way hither to Srinagar(Position 18). We see Posltion 22. hpS POSitbn 22. nrrOp 8 90 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SRINAGAR 91

ice-shields protecting the bridge-piers, and weknow from these low-class women. The country has a repu- therefrom that ice-floes endanger these bridges when tation for pretty women, and there may be some, but, winter relaxes its icy grip. We see, too, the gondolas as in all Mohammedan and Hindu countries, they are of this Himalayan Venice as they are paddled up and about as invisible as the angels. Yes,when I first down the stream. You surely will not fail to notice rested my camera for this picture, there was a stam- with the boys on the buttress a single specimen of the pede for the seclusion of their miserable domiciles, but houris of the north; but I did not see any of these my Cashmere boy,by a flourish of coin, prevailed nymphs of the Mohammedan Paradise who would be againstthe teachings of the Moslem faithand they likely to prove dangerous with their black eyes ; black fell back into their former positions. eyes are quite innocuous when coupled with qualities Is there anything we can learn from this door-yard and conditions already referred to, scene ? We see a thatched roof, showing that roofs are not invariably of grass-covered earth; thatch is A nearer view may prove or disprove my unkindly undoubtedly a later innovation. In other places I have ' criticism; therefore we will walk up the bank of the mentioned the universal fondness of the female sex river for a short distance where we will stand near the for personal decoration. Are the Cashmere women an door of a native home and see both sexes of the Cash- exception ? Do you see any signs of an exception, or mere genus homo in neighborly and family confab. do you again see ear-rings and bracelets, and maybe The number 23 marks the spot on Map 5. anklets, only for grimy skirts? The women do much Position 33. Shelling rice and gossìplng with the of the drudgery; here they are shelling rice. That man ' neighbors-home life of contentedcitiaens of with the rice-pounding stick is a pretender; the seated Cashmere woman belongs to that rice-mortar if I may so call it. There are four women in this door-yard group, but The other woman pounds with a child in her arms. you observe that two only allow themselves to be pho- A4 relay of rice-pounding women are seated and hid- tographed; one has purposely turned away her face, ingtheir faces. The two men onthe door-step are theother has hidden hers behind a neighbor. Back- persons a cut higher, as shown by their snowy tur- sheesh is the only talisman by which the photographer bans of puggrees. Those close fitting skull caps are can secure a pose from Mohammedan men or women. common withthe Cashmerians. You notice baskets Mohammed forbids the making of likenesses but back- made of willow twigs, also basket-scoops for win- sheesh is often more persuasive than the prophet of nowing the shelled rice from the husks. The un- Allah ! Thatthe posing is done demurely and with shelled rice is dark in color, resembling barley. I have compunction is manifest from the morose countenances sometimes complained of photographic art, because it of thetwo women who face the camera, neither of does not show dirt, yet here the shabby garments of whom is liable to be mistaken for an houri. It would these people almost display their grimy condition. not be fair, however, to determine Cashmere types parltbn W. M.p I -a. Mmps - .. 92 INDIA THROUGH STEREOSCOPE THE .SRINAGAR 93 That scowling woman’s feet are quite as black as her we see one, or indeed, several, some on the farther side eyes, and quite unbecoming an houri. of the river. This is a representativepattern. You I am sorry we cannot peep inside. J. do notthink will understand the exterior construction at a glance you would care to lodge therein. It would more than -made of wood and roofed with shingles; the hull of satisfy the author of The Simple Life. It isthe heavier timber. Atthe stern are lockers andthe “lowly thatchecl cottage,” indeed, but a little too lowly kitchen;next tothe kitchen is the dining-room or for western fancy. There remaim for that tyke of a saloon. The first room beyond the open deck is the boy a hirsutetriumph yet to be achieved. We will general utility-room or sitting-room and reading-room leave them now to gossip on about this great event combined. You will notice the upper deck where in their lives, and to atoneas best they can for this potted flowers are kept and where the occupants of violation of a decree of their holy El-Koran. the boat come out to spend theevening hours. The domestics, who usually embrace anentire native We pass a short distance up the river and over to family, live in that mat-covered boat at the left, or in the opposite bank, a point marked 24 on the may, to \ a similar boat quite apart from the occupants of the examine a house-boat such as are used in this delight- house-boat, except for service. This family of natives ful summer resort. constitutes the crew as well as the various orders of Posìtion 24. Delìghts of summer in the Vale of domestic servants. The children on theupper deck Cashmere-music for a house-boat party on the probably belong tothe crew of the house-boat. A Jhelum River house-boat party, can, of course, dispense with crew Weare on theleft bank of the Jhelum, opposite and servants if desired. the polo-ground and the modern hotel seen from our You naturally wonder how these boats are propelled? former position (Position 21), on Takht-i-Suleiman. By paddles, scull-oars and poles; no steam, naphtha, The buildings on the opposite bank show we are out gasolene or electricity isin use at this time, but of the native city and in Europeanized conditions. The probably they soon will be; man-power is still’the most large buildings arestores and offices. The river at ~conomical. These boats are conveyed through canals, this point is the anchorage for numerous house-boats. mer lakes qnd on the river to many parts of the val- Notice thegigantic chenar treeacross the stream. ley, where .hey are moored until a change of place is Only a half mile below us on this side of the river is desired. an interesting museum, which we shall see before The most conspicuous thing in sight is the itinerant we leave the city (Position 26). The Post Office, the musician who sits by the river bank strumming quaint Residency, the Libraryand the Club Buildings are Cashmerianairs on his sitar; thesitar is a sort of all to ourright on the opposite side of the river. orientalguitar, the body of which is made from a I have heretofore mentioned the houseboat as one of gourd; that long neck is lined from end to end with the facilities of travel and outing in Cashmere. Now shiftable feet on which are placed and tuned four or Posltloa 24. Map ,Y porltion 24. Mmp U 94 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SRINAGAR 95

often fivewire strings. Its musicis sweet and soft, manufactured, andin its placewoolen goods of especially when mellowedby an expanse of water. One cheaper quality, in the shape of squares or oblong may infer from this how easy it is to add a musical shawls, plain or embroidered, are produced. novelty to an outing in a house-boat. “Shawls are of twr, kinds,loom-wove (Bitmat) where the whole pattern is wrought on the loom with Now we walk down this same side of the river until an endless series of threads of all colors, and Amlikar we reach the Museum, at the point marked 25 on the in which a foundation is laid of a plain or variously map, when we shall find a man and his son weaving colored fabric, the surface of which is minutely worked the famous Cashmere shawls. over by hand in patterns embroidered in fine woolen thread or silk. In shawl goods the qualities of fine- Position as. Humbleshawl-weavers at Cashmere patiently creating wondeffd harmonies of line ness and softness depend on the wool used. and color “A shawl-loom is worked thus:-The pattern is This exhibit of weaving was prepared for Her Ex- first drawn on paper, and from the picture a rough cellency, Lady Curzon, who was visiting Cashmere at sketch is produced. From this the master-workman 1, the time. Our stand-point is at the door of the Srin- dictates the pattern, so many red threads, so many agar Museum. The Museumhad been put in or- blue and so on. The working weavers follow his dic- der and some of the finestspecimens of manufac- tation, and thus the pattern is evolved. This spekial tures for which the country isnoted had been col- training goes on from generation to generation. The lected and placed on exhibition by His Highness the shawls are made in small pieces, which are eventually Maharajah. Notice how this weaverhas been en- sewed together. compassed by an embroidered screen, to exclude the “The hand-made shawls whichdo not touch the loom gazing crowd while the Vicereine, of India inspected at all are similarly made in pieces, which are joined the manipulation of the famous Cashmere. shawl. together afterwards. The best kind of woolen fabric The Cashmere shawl trade at one time gave em- is known as Pashmina. Coarse, inferior wool is used ployment to twenty-five thousand menand exceeded in the manufacture of fattu, of which various patterns one million and a half of dollars in annual value. The in imitation of English tweeds are now made. A good Franco-German war gave the death blow to the in- piece of pattu is not a bad imitation of real Scotch home-spun, though, of course, much inferior in finish dustry. It is now almost a thing of the past. Before us we have an old-timeshawl weaver who by the and durability. order of the Maharajah has brought his loom to thc “Kashmir embroideries are famous for their fine- ness, elegance of design, and beautiful arrangement of ’ front of the museum to show to Her Excellency, Lady Curzon, hismanner of weaving. The followingde- color. The workmenhave some practical knowledge of what the complementary colors are, and know that scription is from John Callet’s Guide to Cus?zmeve:- “The real.richly embroidered shawl is now seldom setting a color beside its complement sets out both to Porltlon 25. Map 8 hSltloa38. -8 96 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SRINAGAR 97

the greatest effect. The variety of Kashmir shawls is great; the best way to become a judge of these, and Ponìtìon 36. Cbìldmn playing “Hop Wtcb ’’ ìa also of the embroidery on fine puttu, is to visit the ’ Shwgar large shops, where articles, from a cover for asofa Almost everybody has played this very gam; ; a dia- to the m.ost expensive pushminu shawls, may be seen gram is marked out by scratches on the ground or by in great abundance and variety.” chalk-marks on a pavement, andthe players in turn You have probably seen old-time looms in our own hop through it on one foot, kicking a pebble from one country somewhat afterthe fashion of this : it is section to another. Withslight modifications the primitive and crude in its mechanism, but its products game seems to be played in nearly all quarters of the are soughtafter by royalty. I thinkthe piece of earth,though nobody knows where or how it cloth in this loom at present receives its hand em- originated. broidery afterit leaves the loom. I have told you This mud-plastered house with the dirt-covered roof thatthe high-priced shawls are mostly embroidered is like thousands of others in the crowded native quar- by hand, and in sections, which are finally united by ter. If you were to go inside, you wòuld find few or 1. deft needle-work, and sold at prices ranging as high none of what you consider essentials for housekeeping. as $4,000. Is it not wonderful that these poor people The family sleep on rugs on the floor ; dishes for cook- with clumsy hand-made tools can turn out such costly ing and serving food are few, and nobody has an ex- fabrics ? What do you think of twodollars a week tensive wardrobe to be caredfor, so thecares of forthis high-skilled labor?We are wont to think housekeeping are reduced to the minimum. that skilled labor always conmandsits price; con- Hindu boys, when they leave young childhood be- ditionally it is true perhaps. Look at thispatient, hind them, gothrough a religious ceremony corre- skilful man with a family to support, working, not a sponding in a sense to the “ confirmation ” services in union-contracted day of eight hours, but from sun to some Christian churches. Their secular education as sun, with no half-holiday, andfor a paltry two dol- a rule does not go beyond the rudiments of reading, lars a week. Skilled labor does not always command writingand reckoning, but many of them pick up its value. through practical experience very good facility in simple arithmetic.Individual boys now and then If you turn from this example of Indian industrial show both intellectual ability and ambition ; such art to the ordinary life of the people, you find the boys youths fill the Mission schools andthe Government of the City of the Sun are very much like urchins colleges. But, now that the colleges have been turn- anywhere else. ing out graduates for a good many years, the perplex- ing result of such higher education is an enormously excessive number of book-learned men compared with the number of professional and clerical opportunities - -- Position 25. Map 5 Porltloa 26. Map S 98 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SRINAGAR ! 99

for self-support. Disappointed hopes turn to bitter- a few rods away. A magnificent carpetwas spread ness, and bitterness multiplied by exchanged con- overthe landing steps in readiness fortheir descent fidence of grievances leads to what writers on Indian to the boats, so that noble feetmight not have to affairs call the “ social unrest,” withits occasional tread common earthand stone. It is such ceremoni- tragicoutbreaks thatstartle therest of the world. ous splendor as we used to read about in the old tales The problem of a healthy, serviceable outletfor the of Aladdinand his princess-bride. The host onthis educated Hindu’s energy is a problem whose serious- occasion, thehereditary prince of adistrict a little ness is at least commanding consideration by British smaller than New York State and Pennsylvania, is- authorities, though a full solution seems still very far to give him his full title-Major General His High- Off. ness Sir Partab Singh IndarMahindar Badahur Sipar- Meanwhile, for those who do not do any disquieting i-Saltanat, Maharajah of Kashmirand Jummu. He I amount of thinking, life in almost any Indian city is succeeded to the throne in 1885,is a naval commander so full of entertaining sights that every day has some- of the Star of India, and receives herein his own thing interesting to offer a spectator at the show. To dominions an official salute of twenty-one guns; in American or British eyes Srinagar in particular offers other parts of India nineteen guns. His palace-home spectacles more suggestive of poetry and romance (in the native town, a short distance below the quaint than of life in a practical world of bread-and-butter bridge which we saw from Position 22) is elegantly. problems. Our next position, on the river-bank near furnished,partly in the nativefashion and partly where the shawl-weavers were at work, will give us with modern Europeanarticles such as any British a typical experience. or American man of ‘wealthmight use. ABritish

“ Resident ” is practically hisPrime Minister, and ?brition 27. Orientaf Hospitality-State barger of the between them a good many modern ideas are. ma- Maharajah conveying guests, Srinagar terializing for the benefit of the people. Abouttwo and a half million people come underhis rule. A The Residency, where the official representative of good many of them are country folks remote from theBritish Government lives, is a mile away up- this twentieth century; but at least those who live in stream. The native city is down-stream. Those beau- this picturesque capital city of His Highness have a tiful poplar andchenar trees are againreminders of prospect of better times for themselves and their chil- Cashmere’s remoteness fromthe enervating heat of dren, because of a royally authorized and patronized India’s lowland districts,and her nearer kinship to movement for the commercial development of old na- , our own home-lands in point of climate. tive handicrafts. The really fine IndustrialArt L These boats with the awnings are carrying toward Museum on the river-bank just behind us surprises the Residency the Viceregal guests of the native ruler many a traveler into exclamations of wonderingad- of Cashmere; they have just come from the Museum miration over specimens of engravedand beaten

Posltlone 26-27. Map 5 Porltloo 27. Map 5 100 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CASHMERE 101

copper-work,silver-work, carved wooden ware, em- poultry; so that the general aspect of a well-stocked broideriesand woven stuffs. And it is not merely traveling ekka is a snarl or conglomeration of horse, a collection ofold masterpieces of workmanship and humanity, rags and ropes. artistic feeling; fortunately for Cashmere,the people Seven days and one hundred and fifty-five miles of of thepresent generation are proving that neither ekka travel leave impressions mental and physical not taste nor skill died with their ancestors. soon to be forgotten. One fare for the entire, distance The usual way of traveling through Cashmere is between Srinagar and Murree by mail tonga is nine lesspoetic and less comfortable than a river-voyage dollars. An ekka with exclusive use may be hired for inone of theseroyal barges. Our next position,on the same amount. Coolies can be hired for carrying one of the mountain roads leading back from Srinagar luggage at the rate of four annas or twelve cents 'a towards Murree, will show quite another sort of con- stage, and the stages vary from ten to fifteen m.iles. veyance,which serves, at need, for the journey of The regulation burden of each coolie is fifty pounds. one hundred and fifty-fivemiles over a wonderfully Think of carrying on the head a weight of fifty grand andpicturesque road along the gorge of the pounds a distance of fifteenmiles for twenty-far Jhelum. cents ! In the matter of expense, how far does our Position a8. A hill-cotmtty ekka with ,passenger express service prove an advantage over coolie trans- and baggage coming from Cashmere to Mmme portation ? In expedition the express may claim an I have already given a brief description of a journey advantage, but as regards cheapness and breakage the from Murree to Srinagar in a Himalayan mail tonga; coolie is preferable.Could legislation be made to I made the return in the style which you seehere. consider the interest of the people before the interest ' My choice of an ekka rather than a tonga was the re- of the express companies, and thereby bring about a sult of necessity, as I planned to stop at points en parcelpost system, we might have our small' pack- rozcte in order to secure stereographs of desirable ages carried as cheaply as in European countries or places, and I must be accompanied by an interpreter. as cheaply as by the coolies of India and Cashmere. We could not both ride at the same time-as you will There are ten stations between Srinagar and Mur- readilyperceive from the construction of our car- ree averaging about fifteenmiles between stations. riage-except during long down-grades when we With but a single horse, and that one as you see not wouldcrawl up under that roof of rags. An ekka altogether a Bucephalus in his make-up, the team ' has no springs; that great pouch below the axle is to wouldseldom make more than one stage a day. hold fodder for the horse. The compartment above Neither ekkas nor tongas travel at night; the road is the axle is for baggage; the third space is for passen- then blockedby long trains of bull&-cartswhich gers, often containing five or six withheads thrust travel mostly at night to avoid the extreme heat of the l out on every side, reminding one of a market crate of sun in the confined gorges of the Jhelum. At every sta- . tim there is a public rest-house established by the &V- Pooltion 28. Map 4 I

102 INDIA THR0UCH-I THE STEREOSCOPE SIMLA 103

ernment. The government tax for a night’s lodgment is Kalka we again take a tonga a distance of fifty-seven eight amas (twelve and a half cents). Meals areordered miles, all the while climbing higher andhigher into d Zu carte and are paid for extra, but therates are the foot-hills of the Himalayas, and it must be remem- moderate. The rest-houses are provided forthe use bered that even the Himalayan “foot-hills” would be of European and Cashmere officials,whose duties considered great mountains anywhere away from the oblige them to travel on the road. European travelers world’s highest range. The road is nowhere straight; are, however, allowed to occupy them, with the under- the tonga-horses gallop around sweeping curves; they standing that officials have the first right to the ac- halt every ten or fifteen miles for relays, when dusty commodations. Servants and followers are not allowed travelers may enter the rest-houses for a cup of tea, to occupy the rest-house. The keeper of the house, then off again at a break-neck gallop as on the road called the Chowkidar, furnishes all comforts possible to Cashmere. This wild ride continues until the tonga at fixed rates. A register is kept by the Chowkidar reaches an elevation of seven thousand feet. in which visitors are required to enter their names, to specify what they have received and the prices paid. ‘A special map of Simla is provided for use at this This register is also a complaint book in which the stage of our journey. Consult Map 6 and you will find traveler is asked to enter his grumbles. I really found our twenty-ninth position marked in the usual way it unnecessary to enter any complaint. My Cashmere near the bottom of the map, a short distance outside boy slept on the floor of the verandah and complained the hill-top town. The red lines show that we shall only of fleaswhich he declared were “too much be facing directly towards the wonderful summer plenty.” A somewhat wearisome succession of days capital of the Indian Government, nestling among the of alternate walking and riding, and meals of the evergreen crests of the sub-Himalayas. Chowkidar’s preparation, left something to bede- sired, but all madeeasily forgettable by thegrand Position 29. Simla, thebeautìful Eìmalayan resort, music of mountain cataracts, the sublimity of bottom- from the highway to Kdka less gorges and the grandeur of ever-changing pros- We have stopped here onthe wayside to takea pects. This ekka ride ended on the seventh day. first look at Simla. Weare still one mile fromthe It will be a good plan to refer again to the general tonga station in the center of the town; but here we map of India and find Simla north of Delhi. Our next obtain a good general view of the central portion and visit is to be to Simla, and, in order to understand the some of the principal buildings. It hasa marvelous characteristic featuresof the place,you should have situation. “A city that is set on an hill cannot be hid.” a clear idea of its location. At Murree we take a tonga Here is one set on a hill over seven thousand feet to Rawalpindi and thence go eastward by rail to Am- above the sea-indeed some of the peaks, as the one balla, where a branch railway extends north thirty- whose slope begins up near the sky-line at the right, five miles to Kdka at the foot of the mountains. At exceeds eight thousand feet; and yet a great number

Position 28. Map 4

-=. - . 1 104 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIMLA 105 of private homes and many public buildings are almost hidden by the dark evergreens which abound at this one by their sudden and unexpected appearance as one elevation. rides along. This district of Simla,in which we are now, in- The topography of Simla is extraordinary; it might cludes eighty-six square miles. Simla itself is not be described briefly as a broken and irregular series of mountains connected by ridges and separated only the summer capital of the Government of India, by but also a Sanitarium, and it is the headquarters of deep valleys, and every slope clad with firs, deodars, the Indian army throughout the year, for these reasons oaks and rhododendrons. At the bottom of every val- it becomes a place of great importance and especially ley is found a clear mountain stream. Northward in every direction maybe seen the glistening snows of of great activity during the summer months. In the 'winter it islargely deserted, except by the garrison the main range whichdoes not seem' far distant, so and the native population, and all this ground is often pure is the mountain air, and yet the nearest. of the covered with heavy falls ofsnow. snow-capped peaks is twenty-seven miles from Simla in a straight line,while the nearest of the central Yonderslope on which the town is built extends for one thousand feet into a densely wooded vale be- Himalayan range is more than fifty miles away. Be- low. The sky-lineis a narrow ridge scarcely a hun- tween the main range and Simla there seems to be a dred feet in width, and extends from that dark wood world of mountains and of valleys, sometimes clothed on the right toward the left or westward for two miles in boskage and at other placeswith sharp pi,nnacles sky. The world-embracingviews are to Observatory Hill and the Palace or Viceregal piercing the often truly sublime. Southward at Lodge. Beyond that ridge there is an abrupt descent (i. e., behind us the left) on clear days the plains at Amballa can seen of a thousand feet, thickly wooded, but with a north- be seventy-sixmiles away. Just imagine standing ern exposure and consequently with too little sunshine on yonder ridge, or by those villas on the slope of wooded for dwellings. It is,however, the haunt of innumer- Jakko, with your vision commanding a view plains able monkeys who often scamper along the housetops of in the bazaar portion of the town. The mountain seventy-six miles to the south, then turning in an op- posite direction and gazing at the snowy summits of whose base slope we see at the right is called Jakko, and is encompassed by a beautiful road and promenade the highest range in the world, fifty miles to the north ! May not that be called a comprehensivelandscape ? fivemiles in length. The sinuositiesin that road af- Sometimeson a clear morning there can be seen a ford charming glimpses into deepravines and out silver line winding among the intervening mountains over sunlit valleys.By-paths at every turn lead to midwaybetween thegreat range and the beholder. private cottages hidden among many-coloredrhodo- is the mighty Sutlej river, near its birthplace, start- dendrons. Jakko Hill is dotted with villas to the sum- It ing on its wild career to the sea, a descent of six thou- mit; the endless slopes below the leveI of that ridge sand ' feet. hide away cosy homes which are constantly surprising We here command a general view which enables me Polltlon 29. Mep 6 paltbn 29. Map 6

--- -- 106 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIMLA ‘107

torefer readily toimportant places not within our horizontal ridge, or that its circumference is five miles. field of vision. Could we pass over that ridge to the The summit is easily reached by shady paths, and extreme left and descend twelve hundredfeet by a when reached one finds a strange, solitary dweller- sequestered and shady path, or by a winding rickshaw a fakir or hermit with troops of monkeys for his com- road, we should reach a pretty vale called Anandale, panions. Whenthe hermit wishes to assemble his where are the race-course, the public gardens, and the simian friends, he shouts a call-word which they cricket ground. It .is the place where all out-door quickly recognize and they come scamperingfrom sports are held. Near Anandale is a charming wooded every part of the hill for a treat of gram (peas). They glen with grassy slopes and giant trees and cosy nooks come in hundreds and of all ages and sizes and de- for sauntering lovers. Thereare many outlying sta- nominations. Simian mothers come carryingtheir tions where good rest-houses are located, and at which babes ; some are recognized bosses domineering ’the exceptional scenic vistas may be enjoyed. different bands. It forms a curious spectacle. Mushobra is only four miles from Simla, beauti- By following that ridgetowards the left for one fully located and possessing an excellent hotel and mile, Observatory Hill is reached, and the Viceregal near which an annual fair is held, called the Sipi Fair. Lodge, or Viceroy’s Palace, which we shall see from It is sometimes called the “Sipi Matrimonial Fair,’’ as another point (Position 32). The sharpturn in the some claim that when the fair was first established it road in front of us is a suggestion of the roads every- was chiefly a match-making institution, and that moun- where about Simla. Oftensheer plunges of several tain maids went there to display their charms and to hundred feet are made into woody ravines or rocky make marital conquests-in short, a matrimonial mar- chasms. ProspectHill, to which we shall go for a ket. Night-walks at Mushobra are rendered some- position overlooking the military station of Jutogh what uncanny by prowling leopards. By a long day’s (Position 32), liesbehind us now and at a much trip to Narkanda one may obtain a glimpse of a goodly greater elevation than the road at this point. portion of the world from a height of nine thousand I must call yourattention to thesituation of the feet. Town Hall, which occupies a central position at the The road aroundJakko Hill affords a delightful foot of JakkoHill and on the top of theridge, a drive, and late in the afternoon and in the early morn- trifle to the right of the open space among the trees. ing it is quite animated with rickshaws, carriages, and It is a large new stone structure with Gothic features, horse-back riders of both sexes. One romantic stretch a multurn in parvo affair, containingthe Gaiety in the road with unusual aspects is called the Ladies’ Theatre with corridorsand foyer, a masonic hall, Mile,because a favorite speeding place for eques- municipal offices, a police station, a public library, triennes. You would not think from the low and flat the finest ball-room inIndia, fifty by seventy feet, appearance of the base of Jakko, seen from where we ball-room galleries, drawing rooms, and so forth. On stand, that it rises steeply a thousand feet above that festal occasions the plaza about the Town Hall pre- Poettbn29. hp6 Roritlon 29. hp6 I. 8, 108 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIMLA 109 sents a lovelyscene, filled with fine equipages,, rick- showed itself in the pugilistic attitude of the two small shaws and coolie-borne jhampans. Near it is Christ boys-the boxing pose comes first to the mind of the Church, shown now by thatsquare tower with four British scion, ever ready for a fight-the molz droit sharp spires. I call your attention particularly to that (my right) of the English coat-of-arms symbolized by church because we shall be standing just before it at little fists. our next position. It stands at theeast end of a plaza, on the top of the ridge which forms the water- We will now follow this highway up to a position shed of the Simla district. This plaza isthe public nearChrist Church, which has been pointed out to play-ground of Simla; it has the promenade and the you, and look southward. The local map marks the band-stand with the post office at the west end and the spot with a 30. (Notice thatthe centraldistrict of Town Hall in the center. That central opening on the Simla is given by itself on a larger sde, in the corner skyline is an observation point for the snowy range. of Map 6.) The Government buildings extend from the center of our line of view towards the left; a few of them are Position 30. Before ChristCharch, at Simla,, In- in sight, butit is difficult to identify the different dia’s charming summer capifalin the Himalayan buildings from our position. I think the many-storied momtafns structure in the center line is the Kzctchery, which sig- This church, the first erected in Simla, dates back nifies Court-House. The Secretariat is shown in part to 1840; but the erection and history of the present at the extreme left, while the Foreign Office is still edifice are best summed up in the inscription on the farther toour left. corner-stone :-“The first corner-stone of a new As one glances at this town perched on this steep church, for the station of Simla, to be called and slope suspicions of landslides haunt the intending known as Christ Church, Simla, was solemnlyde- domiciliary; but there is generally nothing to fear, posited, with prayers to Almighty God for His bless- as most foundations are on rock. The buildings thickly ing on the designer, the architect, the builders, and the clustered together below the Town Hall constitute benefactors to the same, by Daniel Wilson, Bishop of the chief center of the native bazaar, although many Calcutta and Metropolitan of India, in the presence of villages are scattered around Jakko and among the His Excellency, SirHugh Gough, Bart., G. C. B., hills near by. Commander-in-chiefin India, theHon. J. Cadwal- Before leaving this point you must not fail to Iader Erskine, Sub-Commissioner, NorthWest notice the true signs of Anglo-Saxonism in the group Frontier, and of several of thegentry, and military before us; with those natives are English boys and officers resident in Simla, onthe 9tb-of September, girls on their way from school. When all were asked A. D. 1844,in the8th year of the reign of Her to stop momentarily and give life to the stereograph Majesty Queen Victoria, TheRight Hon. Sir. H. negative, the Anglo-Saxon spirit of fun and fight Hardingee, Bart., G. C. B., being Governor-General Porltlon 29. Mmp 6 110 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIMLA 111

of North West Provinces. Deo soli per Jeszcm Christum again you see bungalows partially hidden among the sit gloria Sempiternu’wt,” We see then thatfor in fir-trees down on themountain side. Simla as a capi- ‘ over sixty years this has been an English church, so tal,a hill station, oras aSanitarium includes six that Simla isby no means a new place;but sixty square miles, andthroughout the entire region you years ago theattendants were not so numerous as wouldbe greeted by similar outlooks. The placé has they are today, neither did they come and go in those now a population of about forty thousand, ‘but only handy little man-power rickshaws which wenow see between four and five thousand are Europeans. waiting at the church door. The gowns were prob- It is needless to tell you that there are many Sani- ably not so fine, northe jampanies (rickshawmen) tariaor mountain stations in India,and needless, so immaculate, if indeed there were jampanies at all moreover, to tell you why so many mountain retreats sixtyyears ago. This is thestate church and it is have been established; you, of course, know of the herewhere the Viceroys and Vicereines attend ser- languishingheat of the plains. Farther on in our vice; but they do not usually enter at this door. The itinerary(Positions 37-40) we shall visit another Viceregal equipage with runners and out-riders passes mountain station, if possible, even more beautiful than before this door and around to a private entrance on Simla. the opposite side of the building. Rickshaw men are not always so spotless in their From our present position you may again draw con- attire; but these are private jampanies, hired by clusions asto theextraordinary outlooks in Simla. Europeans at about $3.50 per month. If Americans We are looking towards the plains, and a line running or Englishmen at home had to do the work of a horse directly south from where we stand would pass very at $3.50 a month, ajampanie strike would soon be near to Delhi and Cape Camorin. We can discover on. The ladies of Simla vie one with another ‘in mak- the contour of mountains beyond deep intervening val- ing original and sometimes fantastic costumes for their leys, and those ranges are but foothills to the monarch jampanies. At this moment there seem to be no car- ranges lying farnorth; the ranges such as you see riages waiting at thechurch door ;but in a few minutes here constitute the world of mountains to which I have there may be many elegant turnouts with gaudy syce already referred, not inregular chains as those ap- (grooms) in attendance. You cannotfail to observe pear to be, but an incomprehensible world-chaos of that our position here is again on a high terrace, so ranges, peaks, spurs, valleys, ravines, andgorges, the rickshaws which must travel to those distant bounded on the far south by hazy plains and on the dis- bungalows willbe compelled to make a long detour tantnorth by snow peaks piercing the sky. You see to reach the lower road leading there. Have you read how the banks of clouds match the mountain ranges; Kipling’s story of The Phuntom Rickshaw? These at the bursting of the monsoons, when black thunder jampanies in their white robes darting silently along clouds, cleft with lightning flashes, come rolling over the hidden by-ways at midnight wouldbe spooky those mountains, the appearance is truly grand. Here enough for “phantom rickshaws.”

Position 30. Map 6 . Porltka 30. lmp 6 112 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIMLA 113

Just beyond the rail opposite the church is a sheer and feign contempt-he will recede again in his price. descent of fifty or sixty feet down to a foot-path and a Leave the shop and he will probably call after you a rïckshaw road leading to native shops and to the oldest lower figure. Stride on in magnificent and lofty con- hotel in Simla, viz. : Lowrie’s Hotel. tempt. A few days later, if you are anxious to make the purchase, pass the door of the shop, accidentally, Thither we go for a glance at native stores-but a as it were, but be careful not to look in. The shop- Briton will notunderstand you if you say “stores” ; keeper’s greedy eye will not escape you; he will hail here you must say “shops.” Our thirty-firststand- you ; he will urge you to come in “just to look”; but point is located on the town map. didn’t speak to, nor recognize him-walk haughtily on. Days afterwards, or weeks maybe, casually pass the Pmition 31. Native shops and traders, along Zower shop again-you will be sureto hear the-“Here, Bazaar, Simla muster!” “How much?” Offer, say, one-fourth of Weare now looking northwest. We have come the original price, and it is not unlikely you will hear down fromthe church by thatnarrow road to the a mournful “all right,” accompanied by a solemn as- right,and again ascended toour present view-point severation that you haveruined him; and yet when nearthe afore-mentioned Lowrie’s Hotel. Weare you are gone he will glmt over his profitable trans- facingtowards the Town Hall which we see at the action. This system of barteris common to all right, distinguishable by its Gothic features, and then Orientalcountries; it is extremely tedious, butthe far away we can identify a portion of Observatory intending visitor to the East must familiarize himself Hill near where the Palace is located. The street be- withit, else endurean unremitting “bunco.” It is low leads pastthe Town Hall to the Post Office at very unlike our one-price system; but it is a system the west end of the Mall or Plaza. Here the way is in which resistance is an economic necessity. lined with a poor class of native shops, but these are These are typical native shops-low, cheapsheds what we desire to see rather than the European with with open fronts that may be closed inwith boards which we are quitefamiliar. at night. Daily, troops of half-wild monkeys may be If you are unacquainted with Oriental methods of seen scampering and chipperingalong these roofs. negotiation, these shops would prove a school in which Jackals are the night scavengersof Simla, and theirwild you must take some degrees before undertaking to do concerted yells as they prowl about among the forest- buying successfully. The first-named prices would embowered houses are not contributive to sleep. Dur- probably dissuade you from all hope of making a pur- ing my late visit to Simla, two of those‘ animals found chase. Then you affect absolute indifference about their way into the bathroom of Lowrie’s Hotel, near buying, and jeer at the preposterous attempt at extor- where we stand now. The bathroom is on the ground tion. Soon the shop-keeper will commence his invariable floor near the wooded hillside; the outer door was un- course of “coming down.” Increase your indifference fastened, thenight prowlersentered, andthe door pobttk~ 31. Mnp 6 114 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIMLA 115 closed upon them. Theywere discovered by the Simla various market products. Have you any desire earliestmorning bather, whereupon theproprietor, to know Wh& fruits and vegetables are grown in the knowing that I was an American and presuming that sub-Himalayas ? It always impresses me very strangely every man from the country in which the pocket-gun to see familiar flowers or plants or vegetables in a does a good part of the life insurance business must far-away country. The hill-men inthis neighbor- have his “policy” about him, asked me to assist him hood raise cucumbers, pumpkins, peas, beans, spinach, to dispose of his unbidden guests in the bathroom. I tomatoes, radishes, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, arti- soon despatched one by a shot from my revolver, but chokes, turnips, celery, asparagus,rhubarb, onions, number two secreted himself behind the bathtub and ginger, beet-root, lettuce, etc. The principal fruits I was obliged toenter the room and demolish him are apricots,strawberries, wild cherries, quinces and with the butt end of a billiard cue. peaches, while mulberries and raspberries are found The howls of hyenas in the valleys below often dis- wild on the hillsides. Municipal orchardshave been turb the fitful sleep of the timorous; but such night planted and cultivated which now supply the station sounds only add the charm of weirdness to one’s unique with considerable quantities of good Englishfruit. environment, especially if accustomed merely to such When we seeEuropean Segetables andEuropean gentle night-sounds as the discussion of the katy-dids fruits,and find European climate at these points of or the chirping of hearth-crickets. elevation in the midst of the languishing tropics, we Grass cutting is a regular industry in Simla. Every naturally wonder what would England do in India keeper of horses must include agrass-cutter among withoutthese hill-stations. thenumerous servants attached to his domain, how- You must not be led to believe from this view that ever small. In every approach to the town at all hours only nativeshops are to be found here. Beyond this you will meet grass-men with great bundles of their part of the street in eitherdirection you would find special commodity on their way to the grass-market. large and well-stocked English and native shops. There You see threegrass-vendors before us now. They are six hotels in Simla and several boarding houses; may be servants or they may be grass-sellersfrom so you may easily understand, how, with the advent amongthe mountains. I have met them ten miles of the Government officials andtheir families along from town bearing such burdens forthe market. with the influx of other sojourners, Simla: becomes a Grass-cutters receive about the sam.e pay as jampanies. gay and festive and fashionable place in the summer Thereare wood-sellers also, who bringto the city season. in this fashion great bundles of limbs orfaggots to the wood-market. Now, just imagine we are in one of those “phantom Along this street, and indeed, along every street in rickshaws” and wewill scudalong this same street Simla, you would see in the coolness of theearly and then along abroad drive one mile to the Viceregal morning lines of hill agriculturistsbringing in to Lodge,the official residence of the Viceroy. We pause at the spot marked on the map with a 32 in red. Poeltbn 31. Map 6 MfflOO at. -6 116 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE Sf MU 117

Position 32. South front of Viceregal sodge, Palace late beautiful Lady Curzon. This was her vice-im- of the Viceroy, at Simla, the charming Summer perial home for a term of years, and how many times Capital India of she has entered beneath these grand porches in stately We are facing westward. Simla isbehind us. We equipage ! How often the spaciousCouncil-room stand on the leveled crest of Observatory Hill which withinhas been occupied by statesmen and native commands beautiful vistas in every direction, from the princes ! and how often too havehigh-born dames, plains south to the snowy range in the north. dècolletées, with sparkling tiaras and sweeping trains, This magnificent pile was completed in 1888; it is graced the embowered dancing hall ! the official residence of the Viceroys of India. It was You will note that those palace guards are natives, first occupied by Lord Dufferin during the last year that the servant with fantastic cap is a native; in fact of hisreign. It isbuilt chiefly of gray stone, quar- all the numerous servants belonging to the palace are riedin the neighborhood.Towelle says :-“The natives; there is obvious policy in this. grounds are beautifully laid out. It is approached by a long road windingup from the Guard-House and Our next positionwill be a halfmile southward through a well laid out garden. The roadway is lined (left), on Prospect Hill, looking towards Jutogh, a with flower-beds and ornamental shrubs. To the west military station. It is inline with our present posi- are terraces well turfed, prettily plantedwith orna- tion, about two miles distant, as the map shows. mental shrubs and flower-beds,round the margin of well kept lawns. In the grounds are three houses for Position 33. Jutogh, a military station, from Proe- the accommodation of parts of His Excellency’s Staff pect Hill, Simla a -Observatory House, Squire’s Hall and Curzon Our stand isnow on the westside of Prospect House.” Every part of the interior is spacious and Hill and we are looking west-northwest towards the admirable. The entrance hallis thirty by forty feet; military station of Jutogh, which is over a mile from the dining-room, thirty by seventy; the drawîng-room, where we stand. This position has beenchosen for thirty by sixty ; the ballroom, thirty by seventy, and a two-foldpurpose, viz.: to show the character of there are numberless other rooms in similar magnifi- one of the many English military posts at a high ele- cent proportions. The entire palace has been furnished vation, and to furnish an example of what I,have and decorated without regard to expense. It is lighted several times had occasion to refer t6-the grandly throughout by electricity-giving it a fairy-like ap- mountainous character of the sub-Himalayas. We are pearance on occasions of state and festivity. standing at an elevation of seven thousand feet, while The Viceregal Lodge is truly a palaceeminently Jutogh is a trifle lower. We can see the soldiers’ bar- worthy of the high representatives of the British Crown racks on one point and powerful batteries located on for whoseoccupancy it has been erected. We have the smaller peak. Those batteries of course. are in- already referred on more than oneoccasion to the tended chiefly for localdefense and are capable of podtl~a3% kp6 118 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE ’SIMLA 119

sweeping anyapproach in case of atribal uprising. creepingalong near the intersection of a stillolder A single glance will show you the admirable sanitary road. Here you havea good opportunity of noting conditions of such a place. You see the soldiers’ the general character of the tonga road between Kalka quarters on that crest, swept by cool mountain breezes, andthe capital, indeed, thecharacter of a roadany andthe homes of the officers with their families in where inthe Himalayas-how continuously winding, those houses a little below ana to the westward. What how steep the slopes, how deep the valleys, and how a vigor-restoring place for men who have been long high the mountain crests; and then again, as at Simla, held in camps on the scorching plains ! Only a small we see how range succeeds range. We are looking number of troops are kept at a place like this;but well towardsthe north and it is still range beyond military summer sanitariaare maintained at many range until space defeats our vision. This is what suitable places throughoutthe Himalayas, between I have been calling, forthe want of more compre- Assam on theeast and Afghanistan on the west, as hensive adjectives, the limitless world of the sub- already mentioned. We visited a hill-station at Mount Himalayas. In this wild of mountainand valley one Abu. Thereare others at Poonanear Bombay, at must travel several miles of ascent and descent to cover Bangalore, at Ootacamund far south, andalso along one mile of latitude or longitude. Thismountain thewestern Ghauts (See page 337). The mountains climbing necessity reminds me of a curiouscustom furnishEuropeana climate intropicala country among the donkey-drivers and muleteers of this which is often smitten with pestilence and under a tor- region;they slit the nostrils of their animals from rid condition of heat. Jutogh here, like other hill- two tothree inches in orderto facilitatebreathing, stations, is fanned by cool upper currents, and during believing asthey seem to do that fullerinspiration the monsoon floods it has a perfect drainage. Moun- and expiration depend on nostril space. taineers are proverbially hardierand braver than a People at home often wonder why travelers visiting people reared in a level country, and it may be that these sub-Himalayan stations do not penetrate to the dweIling even for limited periods in these rugged main range. This glimpse into fifty miles of the sub- places imparts somewhat of these qualities to soldiers. rangesought to suggesta reason; fifty miles in a If mountain climbing and mountain air andthe ma- direct line means one hundred and fifty miles of ascent jesty of mountainscenery tend toimpart war-like and descent. qualities, the graduates of Jutogh should be brave and fierce and hardy. With this glance at a mountainmilitary post we Thereare two roads between Kalkaand Simla; return to Simla, andfrom Simla we start out on a what is known as the old road passes along the base tripto the native state of Bhuji, twenty-two miles of Jutoghand is now mainly used forcarting pur- north of Simla. At Sunni, the capital of Bhuji, we poses; it is the lowest of a number of roads to be reach the head-waters of theSutlej river. On this seen aboutJutogh. You can identify a freight-cart tripthe travelerjourneys by whatin this region is Posltlon Map 6 33. Poaltlon 33. Imp 6 120 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE NALDERA 8 121

called a jhampan, a sort of sedan chair carried by two was here that the inspiration of his beautiful poem, coolies. The route passes aroundthe north side of The Palace of Omartes, came to him. LordLytton Jakko, throughthe village of Kasauli andalong an lived in a palace at Simla, but he preferred to live in excellent carriage road as far as Mushobra, five miles a tent at Naldera. His poem is this :- from Simla; at Mushobra the carriage road ends and a rickshaw road continues through winding stretches “Omartes, king of the wide plains which north of deodars and along dizzy winding slopes and jagged Of Tanais pasture steeds for Scythian Mars, Forsook the simple ways crests until we reach aspot of great beauty in the And Nomad tents of his unconquered fathers, midst of a region where every outlook is marked by grandeur and sublimity. This spot is ournext point And in the fashion of theneighboring Medes, of view. Built a great city girt with moat and wall, And in the midst thereof Position 34. Charming Naldera, the favoriteretreat A regal palace dwarfing piles in Susa, of &ords tytton and Curaon We are looking south-southwest, with Simla at the With vast foundations rooted into earth, extreme right on that high mountain ridge, about ten And crested summits soaring into heaven, And gates of triple brass, miles distant by the road we have followed. Mushobra Siege-proof as portals welded by the Cyclops, lies over beyond the line of view to the left. Beyond this level, terrace-like pasture land and yonder range One day Omartes, in his pride of heart, of mountains lies a deep valley dotted with native Led his high-priest, Telentias, through his halls, cots and cultivation, and behind us, only two hundred And, chilledby frigid looks Whencounting on high praise, asked, ‘What is yards away, one might stand on perpendicular ledges wanting? and look down into a valley one thousand feet below, where a branch of the Sutlej winds its course through ‘Where is beheld the palace of a king, a bird’s-eye landscape. This is becoming apopular So stored with all that doth a king beseem; retreat. It was here that Lord Lytton came to escape The woofs of Phrygian looms, The gold of Colchis andthe pearls of Ormus. thecares of State. It was also here that Lord and Lady Curzon came to be away from the artificial, to ‘Couches of ivory sentfrom farthest Ind, enjoy the Simple Life; to be away from court cere- Sidonian crystal, andCorinthian bronze, monials and boredom in a thousand forms, and to be Egypt’s vast symbol gods, near Nature who never tires her devotees. And those imagined unto man by Hellas, We cannotbut wonder whilewe gaze over these ‘Stored not ip tents that tremble to a gale, velvety pastures-the favorite dream-land of Lord But chambers firm based as the Pyramids. Lytton, where he was wont to come to be rid of all And breaking into spray the tedium and grandeur of the palace-whether it The surge of Time as Gades breaks the Ocean ?’ Porl%n 34. Map l porltbn34. M.p 1 122 INDIA THROUGH TEE STEREOSCOPE SUTLEJ RIV$R 123

‘Nor thou nor I the worth of these things now Twelve miles or more intervene between hereand Can judge ; we stand too near them,’ said the Sage. our destination on theSutlej. The whole distance is ‘None till they reach the tomb intensely picturesque and wild-mostly a winding de- Scan with just eye the treasures of the palace, scent of several thousand feet. The heat increases as ‘But for thy buildings,-aswe speak, I feel a traveler descends and he is soon passing paddy- Through all the crannies pierce an icy wind fields and clumps of banana plants, where the higher More bitter than the blasts temperature and tropical flora tell unmistakably when I. Which howled without the tents of thyrude fathers. the level of the lower plains is reached once more. ‘Thou hast forgot to bid thy masons close After five hours,and near nightfall, the village of The chinks of stone against Calamity.’ Sunni is reached, with its rest-house near the Sutlej The Sage inclined his brow, built by the Rajah of the native State of Bhuji. It is Shivered, and,panting, round him wrapped his without furniture save a charpoy (a kind of bedstead), mantle.’’ which anytraveler is free to occupy forthe night. Like most people King Omartes saw with his eyes, Our next standpoint is near Sunni, on the bank of the butTelentias saw with his soul, and who chooses a Sutlej. palace before a retreat like Naldera sees with his eyes Position 35. Inflating bullock-skin boats for cross- only. ing the swift Himalayan river, Sutlej We are on the left bank of the Sutlej, looking up “It is the soul that sees; the outward eyes stream. The channel is rock-bound andthe stream Present the object, but the mind descries.”* is strongand rapid, narrowand deep. As you now Referring again to the landscape before us, we are stand looking at the head-water of this great river on a plateau rolling in places, and sometimes covered of the Himalayas, you must not be forgetful of the with groves of beautiful deodar, a kind of cedar privilege you possess in being able to see so important (Cedrus deodura), while the slopes are often aflame a river in its upper course among the mountains. You with red-flowered rhododendrons ; the grazing places will say it is not large; no, at this season, not so aboutthe pools are enlivened with feeding flocks. A large; notwithstandingits apparent smallness at this half-mile to our right is the native village of Naldera. point, it is a greatand important river. Its name . There are suitable places in every direction for camp- signifies “The hundred channeled.” It is thelargest ing and tenting, and golf-links have lately been added of the five rivers of thePunjab. The Sutlej here, toits attractions. It was probably the many charms like the Bramapootra, the Ganges and the Indus, has and associations ofthe place, with the euphony of its origin in Thibet at an elevation of twenty thousand its name, which disposed Lord and LadyCurzon to feet above the sea. Think of a descent of twenty name their youngest born Alexandra Naldera. thousand feet before it reaches the sea, andwhat a ’ -‘Crabbe. waster of water-power ! How long has it been chafing . Position 34. Mmp 1 paltlon 35. M8p 1 .-

L 124 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SUTLEJ RIVER 125

andthundering to cut its channel fromThibet by a Yo11 have observed how the skinfor this purpose zig-zagging course to the plains ? This time could not is taken from theanimal in one piece and how all open- be estimated in years, but only in geologic periods. ingsin the skin are closed except in one leg which I doubtwhether it would be exaggerationto state isleft open for inflation. You notice two men en- that the erosive work done by this river in its course gagedin the process of inflating, by blowing at the of four or five hundred miles among the Himalayas apertureleft open forthat purpose. Whenthe skin would exceed thecutting of athousand Panama is sufficiently taut the blow-leg is closed by a leather Canals. Its full length before it unites with the Indus thong. One man has completed the work of inflat- is one thousand miles. In its lower course it is navi- ing, two are hard at it and one has just arrived with gable for boats of considerable tonnage; in its upper his skin-boat already “blown-up.” These &eu-wallahs course, as may be seen here, it is navigable for can drivethe skins across the river during high dreas. A drea is an inflated bullock-skin used as a floods when the best swimmer would be helpless in boat. You see th- before us. thepowerful current. Thedrea seems to be a step I have crossed this river several times on these in- beyond the primitive coracle of Wales or of a similar flated bullock-skins; and I am sure that underwriters boat used in Egypt, and about as far removed as pos- would call the operation extra hazardous. The method sible from ocean-liners. Its useoften involves a is briefly this :- The drea-man, after inflatingthe ducking; but a plunge in the river is not a serious in- skin as you see them doing here, places it on the water convenience to these people so simply clad. I might and places himself on his stomach athwartthe skin mention that sometimes two of these boats will cross with his feet in the water; he holds a short paddle in side by side, so close that the passengerscan touch his hands. The intending passenger sits erect, astride handsand thereby maintain a safer balance. If the the drea-man. This gives verya precarious equi- inflated-skin idea were advanced a little, to the degree librium; the drea is exceedingly buoyant, the stability of connecting several skins with boards, a strong and is that of a floating cylinder; feet and paddle in the inexpensive raft could beconstructed-indeed the wateron either side form a very insignificant bilge- modern life-rafts of steel cylinders onour ocean keel. Paddling with the feet and with the real paddle steamers embody exactly the same idea. However, gives the propelling power. An ounce of misplaced the drea on the Sutlej presents an interesting picture avoirdupois on either side insures a pIunge intothe of man’s early attempts at navigation. deep and wrathful Sutlej. When many passengers or much cargoare to be taken across, twoskins are Manningthese queer boats we have types of the bound togetherwith sticks ; this produces greater hill-men of this region; our next point of view, which stability. I have seen hill-women with babes on their is only a few steps away, will give you a chance to backs sit astride the drea-men in the regular fashion see types of hill-women of Sunni. and cross this swift stream from this very point.

Posltion 38. Map l DARJEELING 126 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 127

(by j hampan) to ’ Simla, whose location is now Position 36. Native Bhuji girl8 on the rocky banks familiar. Between Simla andthe Kalka railway sta- of the Himalayan mountain river Sutlej tion at thesouth a narrow-gauge railway has lately We call these Bhujigirls because they belong to beenconstructed-a triumph of engineering which the State of Bhuji; we might call them Sunni women makes the “summer capital” much more easy of access because they come immediately fr’om the village of than it used to be. A branch railway covers the route Sunni, near by; because they came originally from the from Kalka to Amballa. From Arnballa a through hills, we may refer to them as hill-women. They line extends more than nine hundred miles eastward were bathing in the Sutlej ; my interpreter, by offers to Calcutta. Another railway, a long, northward line, of backsheesh, persuaded them to pose for this pic- leads upagain for three hundred miles towardsthe ture.Very seldom, if ever before, have they seen a Himalayas. That route crosses the Ganges and -a European; they are shy and suspicious. One of them deadly jungle called the Terrai ; then by a celebrated has her palms placed togetheras the Hindus place two-foot gauge railway the traveler again climbs the their hands in prayer; whether this implies prayer, or Himalayas. This railway is essentially aseries of pose, or courtesy in this case, I do not know. They loops and curves and switch-backs until it reaches a come very near being beautiful; their hands and facial height of 7,000 feet at Darjeeling. There we shall find lines are beautifully modeled; their eyes are houri our next point of view. black. With fair complexions, and rosy cheeks, I am sure they would form a tolerable quartette of Nereides. Position 37. Nepalese porter-girls who carw bag- gage many milesfor two-pence. Darjeeling They are gorgeously bejewelled-ear-rings, nose-rings, finger-rings, necklaces, toe-rings and bracelets galore. We are standing on the old tonga road in the ap- Their clothes are of cotton; they live in stucco proach to Darjeeling and facing northeast. shanties; they sleep on charpoys ; they have no stoves. Most people who have given some attention to They live mostly on rice and fish and parched corn. thingsIndian, have heard or read something about They attend no church, no school ; they have no dances Darjeeling. When at Simla I statedthat we would nor picnics; no parties ; no automobiles, no bicycles ; visit another mountain station ; this is the station to no pianos. Theyfall inlove I suppose, but have no which I referred. If it bepossible for any inhabited courtship; they marry after a fashion ; they have chil- portion of the sub-Himalayas to surpassSimla in dren; they die and get buried in a wooden box away grandeur of mountain scenery, that portion is Dar- backin the mountains, . . . and that’sall, poor jeeling. Our first view here is much like our first things ! view of Simla (Position 29). Again we have a city on a hill and on a mountain scarp. At Simla the crest IA‘ long journey intervenes between here andour of a ridge formed the central part of the town; the next place of observation, and it will be well to trace same here-the open space on the sky line is the Mall, its course on the general map. First, assume a return the municipal center, the plaza. the orornenade, the porltka $7. Mmp 1 Porltloa 36. Mmp 1. 128 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DARJEELING 129

public rendezvous ; a subsequent position (39) will be girls, or what shall I call them? Their occupation is at a public fountain on that ridge. that of carriers.On the arrival of every train, such European shops and hotels follow the lineof that girls are found at the station ingreat numbers for upper range ofhouses. The Governor’s Pavilion is the purpose of carryingluggage of all sorts to the situated to theleft of the woodedhill-top. Yonder homes of the passengers. Luggagecarriers are not ridge extends in a broken zig-zagging course for miles confined to the Nepalese; Bhotanese and Thibetan in either direction. The valleys are deeper than at women also engage in this kind of work. On the ar- Simla. At the former place we referred to a wooded rival of a train there is great rivalry a.mongst them slope of a thousand feet; from the Mall at the top of and a lively scurrying to and fro to capture luggage. that ridge down to the Teesta riverbeyond, the descent They carry not only hand luggage, but trunks, boxes, is six thousand feet! That ridge continues to the baskets, produce, crates of chickens, in short any porta- left for about two miles and for several miles to the blecommodity. They arestrong and willing and right, and throughout the entire distance every avail- usually good-natured, and carry enormous loads up able site is occupied. Thereare schools, churches, the steepest acclivities without complaint, for a pit- publicoffices, clubs, hotels and shops. Weare lóok- tance that makes western chivalry ashamed. They not ing (northeast) across a deepvalley, which lies to only are willing burden-bearers, they are honest and our left, far below us, and which is covered with tea virtuous girls. The two Nepalese girlsbefore us plantations. There are tea plantations scattered among served as my portersduring a somewhat protracted the n~ountainsin every direction. Many of the build- sojourn in Darjeeling. The lass on the right was first ings which cover the hill-side are shops ; some are kept engaged tocarry my photographic outfit. On some by native merchants from the plains,some by Euro- occasions I required two porters, when the one on the peans, and some by dealers from Cashmere. Down to left was engaged; this quite naturally created bicket- our left beyond thatlarge square building a native ing jealousies. The first I called Cleopatra and num- out-door market isheld every Sunday. You cannot ber two I called Semiramis. Their contentions be- fail to notice the presence of trees here as at Simla. came so clamorous that something had to be done. I same Although about the elevation as Simla, the flora held a little Hague tribunal all alone and decided to is much more tropical. Sixty degrees Fahrenheit is employ forthe day the first-comer. This did not the average summer temperature. In January it some- answer, for they were pounding at my door at dawn. times falls to thirty degrees. The winter is the best I finallydecided to dispense with the services of ; is season snowfall is rare of late years; the air clear Semiramis and retain Cleopatra 6n account of priority and bracing, and the views of “the snows” are mag- of engagement, besides, the latter was somewhat cross, nificentbeyond description. as may be seen by her face, and otherwise unworthy Nearest and most conspicuous inour immediate her ancient namesake. It is plain that both possess vicinity are two Nepalese girls-porters, or express the universal sex-love of decoration. Their ornaments porttl~na7. mp 1 130 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 1 DAR JEELING 131

are of real silver, crudely made by hand in the moun- these women are healthy and happy, and I know they tains. Theiraprons are of home-spun. Instead of were merry when I made this view. Labor of any carryingtheir loads on their heads as women do in kind makes for happiness; well occupied minds and the plains, they use wicker baskets supported by bands hands rarely suffer fr,om unhappiness. extending over the head. Galvanized, corrugatediron is in common use for “Absence of occupation’ is not rest ; roofing, as may be seen inthe chalky whiteness of A mind quite vacant is a mind distressed.” many roofs reflecting strong sunlight.Observatory Suicides are common amongst the unemployed, and Hill is seen at the top of the ridge on the left, and, as thieves are bred of idleness; and it is not improbable the name implies, it commands a marvelous panorama that many who are most inclined to pity this “brutal” of the snowy range, including peaks a hundred miles enslavement aregroaning from some ailment that away, as well as the valley of the Teesta, six thousand comes of indolence. These twenty are happy women; feet below. they are happy because they are healthy; and they are healthy because they are laborer’s. These women also For a change of scene we may follow the old tonga break stone; it is better to be a hale stone-breaker or road tothe right a short distance and then tothe a vigorous and merry roller-puller than to groan with left; there we shall see a feature of road-making quite gout or to be a puling invalid. If I wereasked to unusualin western countries, where feminine con- statewhat I considered themost stupendous error vention tendstowards ornamentation rather than to- of the age, I would say the pursuit of money ils a POS- wards manual service or wealth-production. We shall sible means of happiness-our age is clever and yet be facing north. it does not know that happiness lies alonein health Positìon 38. Twenty-woman team on a Darjeeling and “Honor bright.” highway (north) But from what I have observed do not rally to the Should the eye of a rampant “woman’s-righter” fall inference that I would imply women should be thus upon this scene it would surely produce shock and com- employed. I only wish to recognize the plain fact motion. Hereare twenty women drawingaroad- that no honest labor is ignoble; that happiness is roller; these areHimalayan knights of labor. There separable from some sort of labor; that he or she who are several races represented here-Nepalese, Thibe- ignores labor, which always embraces the all-important tans, Bhotanese, Sikkimese and many others.They essential of sufficient exercise, will sooner or later pay work from sun to sun for seven cents a day and are a physical penalty; therefore do not waste your sym- quite well pleased when they find employment at those pathies on these strenuous hill-women, you may rather rates. Here then rights are absolutely equal, for such envy their joyous labor-songs, their vigor, their happy - work is not confined to women; men do similar work. contentment that never comes of indolence nor of ease. Thereforedo notsay “how brutal !” withoutdoubt When these knights of labor buckle on their armor Posiflonr 37-38. Mmp l 132 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DAR JEELING 133 .they do not cast off their jewels. Their necklaces are surpassesSimla in landscape diversity and scenic not for the ball or the opera; one gown is for Sunday wonders. It is another wonderland of the world. and the same gown for Monday. If jewelry be pretty Between Cashmere and Darjeelingthe whole of it is pretty every day in the week, and cheap jewelry Switzerland could be set down five times lengthwise. is not easily spoiled. We saw the jewelry-decked girls The small Himalayan province of Nepal could con- on the Sutlej (Position 36) ; here seven hundred miles tain three countries like Switzerland. The very small eastward,among different tribes, it is still jewelry province of Bhotan, packed away amongst the Hima- dccoration of the human form. What do you think of layas, is five thousand square miles larger than Switzer- ixlurated soles that can resist the sharpness of newly land. Tocarry the comparison a littlefurther- broken stone ? Rough and grimy feet do not always thirteen countries equal in area to Switzerland could typify hard hearts, nor do indurated soles always rep- he placed along the Himalayan range between Herat resent callous souls. at the western end of the Hindu Kush and the east- We see by the roadside thegraceful and feathery ern boundary of the Himalayan range. In the neigh- bamboo. This we did not see at Simla, and we learn borhood of Darjeelingis an observation peak called thereforethe effect of fourdegrees of latitude-the TigerHill from which may be witnessed in one difference between Simla and Darjeeling. Incidentally, panorama, eleven glitteringsummits all over twenty we learn from this scene the excellence of the roads thousandfeet high. This, believe, can be said of aboutDarjeeling. Every slope is flanked by hard I roads such as we see being made by these strenuous no other view-point in the world. Butmore about the peaks hereafter. Let con- females. us sider thelife before us. Here is aHimalayan milk- man, with a Himalayan horse, carrying a number of By following this road for a quarter of a mile we milk-cans made from joints of bamboo-natural cans should reach the Mall. with lids made from sections of the same wonderful Position 39. Bhotanese milkman with curious bam- tree-or rather wonderful grass, for the bamboo is the boo-jars at the public water fountain, Darjeelìng king of grasses. Such milk-cans are not a1way.s car- ried on the backs of horses; a greater number are car- We are at one end of the Mall by the public foun- ried on the backs of men and women who come in tain; this is thecentral portion of theStation, and ,. roadsradiate from thiscenter in every direction, in- daily fromoutlying mountains ind valleys to peddle the milk from house to house. The milk isthat of II cludingupwards and downwards. Zig-zagging roads, cows, goatsand yaks. The cows are small and in- heightsand depths, hills, valleys, gorges, ravines, ferioras in all parts of India.Goats are aboutthe slopes and crests, ascents and descents, and other geo- il same the world over, lean, mean and omnivorous. The graphical eccentricities here would bewilder the most yak is a bovine witha shaggy coat, a bushy tail, a p highly developed bump of locality. Darjeeling even shapeless form, a bad temper, and a relentless antipa- !L I. PWYlOnr 3839. Mep 1 iI Rmltkn39. M.p l .I , . . ...

------__.__------.. Ii--L - . .. ------134 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DARJEELJNG 135

thy to Europeans. Manymilkmen come to this ren- should reach Lhasa in .east central Thibet ; or, travel- dezvous afterdistributing their milk and from this ing directly northward, .we should pass through the place they start off in many directions, some descend- state of Sikkim, bordering on Darjeeling, and the ten- ing far down into the valleys, others climbing to even ter of Thibet which lies only about seventy miles north greater altitudes. All these hill-people are offensively of our position. A line directly southward would pas dirty. In recent years a dairy and creamery has been through Calcutta and the middle of the Bay of Bengal. established on a hill a few miles from the town and from whichmost Europeans are now able to obtain Now let us Ieave the Mall and pass around Observa- both milk and butter; so that yak and goat milk is tory Hill to try to catch a glimpse of “the snows.” now chiefly soId to the natives. See the general map. A hundred yards to the left there is a band-stand Position 40. Up to the everlastìng snows of Mount where the band plays once a week. A few hundred Kìnchiqiaaga (a8,x56 feet),forty-ff ve mìlesnorth yardsfarther to the left is a beautiful park called from Dqjeeling the Shrubbery, enclosing the residence of the Lieu- If an inhabitant of Mars should visit our globe and tenant Governor of Bengal, who spends the months ask to be shown the grandest conformations and physi- of May and June, September and October here. Ob- cal phenomena on our planet, I would certainly ad- servatory Hill, at the end of the Mall to the left, is vise him to traversethe Himalayas. Our itinerary encompassedby a beautiful drive and walk corre- has brought us to a point on a northern scarp of Ob- sponding in some measure to Jakko at Simla. servatory Hill in Darjeeling, where we catch a glimpse You will notice the native policeman on guard in his in the early morning, before the sun has illumined the box by the bulletin board. The fountain and flower- sombre foliage which embosoms the many villas on the urn and otherfeatures give quite amodem appear- near-by hill. You see the heavy bank of night-fog ance to the Mall. rising from the bed of the Teesta; it rises like a ma- Directly behind us, several hundred feet down the jestic proscenium to hide the glory of the snows from mountain side, is the Sunday native market which is all save the early riser. Often before nine inthe usually so great a thoroughfare that it is difficult to morning this bank of mist rises tothe level of the push a way through ; still farther down the steep de- snows and for the remainder of the day they can be clivity are well-kept botanical gardens containing an seen only throughthe drifting clouds. This, how- interesting collection of plants peculiar to the region ever, is not the case at all seasons; during the winter round about. You see againthe graceful bamboos months, or from October to January, the weather is bordering the hillside. ideal and then these stupendous barriers of ice, snow Were we to continue in a direct line from where we and rock reveal their radiant summits unscreened all stand northeast we should pass through the eastern end day long. Mount Everest, the king of the Himalayas, of Bhotan and at a distance of four hundred miles and the mountain monarch of the world, is about forty- five degrees to the left and one hundred and twenty Position 39. Map 1 ,. Podtloa 40. Map 1 136 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DARJEELING 13’1

miles distant; it can be seen indistinctly from certain should see Mount Chumalari (nearly 24,000 feet) sixty , points as a diminishedpeak on the sky-line. From miles away, and higher than the highest mountain in where we stand our visioncommands the snowy South America. Then Mount Donkia, lying forty-five range east andwest for a distance of one hundred miles east of Kinchinjanga and sixty-five miles north- miles; but our present view confines us to a narrower east of Darjeeling would loom grandly to a height of angle. Kinchinjanga, the Viceroy of the Himalayan 23,136 feet-over four thousand feethigher than range, which rises 28,156 feet towards the stars, forms Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa. In the the center of those awful heights ahead. You may samecosmos of stupendous battlements towers Kan- say that those peaks do not look so high. But, if you chenjhan (22,500 feet), more than seven thousand feet do not understand the effect of distance and the angle higher than Mount St, Elias, and nearly five thou- of vision and the foreshortening of perspective, and sand feet higher than Mont Blanc. have not imagination to correct the deception of dis- This in some degree enables one to understand how tance, you will derive more disappointment than pleas- the Himalayan giants dominate all other altitude as- urefrom Contemplating this group of mountain pirants of the world. They are as unapproachable as giants. Forty-five miles intervene between us and the poles ; but their great distance diminishes their ap- that rival of Mount Everest. Weare standing at a parent height and vastness. point seven thousand feet above the sea; Kinchinjanga Between us and the nearest of these great moun- pierces the sky twenty-one thousand feet above us, tains are four great rivers, the Rangeet, the Pamman, and yet you might think she is but a hillock forty-five the Kulhait and the Rathong, all glacial-fed streams miles away. Weare looking directly north. Seven debouching into the Teesta, already mentioned as six miles nearer us than Kinchinjanga is Kabru, a little thousand feet belowus to the eastward. We see the to the left of the former, 24,000 feet in height. Nar- lighter vapors arising immediately below, and, beyond sing, th& second peak to the right of the “Viceroy,” the wooded spur dotted with cottages, we see the isonly thirty miles distant and reaches a height of ’ great bank of fog rising from the valleys of the two over 18,000 feet, while Pandim, the first to the right rivers-the Rangest andthe Kulhait. This valley is of Kinchinjanga, is ten miles nearer us, with an ele- eight miles in width, the bank of fog fits the valley, vation of 22,000 feet. and rises and spreads out tofill the whole heavens with Could wereach that loftiest summit of untrodden cumuli. Still farther away we can see a dark wooded snow, and continue looking northward, we should be- range many miles wide; beyond that is the valley of hold a continuation of great mountains and deep val- several rivers having their source from fifteen to leys; twenty-fivemiles to thenorth we should see twenty miles away among the six peat glaciers Mount Chomiumo, thirty miles away, and Kamba Pass wedged among..these prodigious mountain masses. at a distance of forty-five miles with an elevation of Several attempts have ,been made to scale Kinchin- more than fifteen thousand feet; looking eastward we janga, the last in 1898 by an American party led by Parith 40. #hp i Podtion 40. Map l

.- , I’ 1 138 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 139

a Swiss guide, but every attempt has proved a failure. Our next observationswill bemade in Calcutta. The virgin snowsremain untouched by man. At the The general mapwill refresh the memory ifneces- summit there is no life, animal or vegetable, no mes- sary in regard to its location at the mouth of the , sage from the teeming life in the wooded vales below, Hugli near the head of th6 Bay of Bengal. Map T, no voice nor bird-note, no sound save the hiss of beat- gives us the city by itself and should nowcorne into 8 ing snow and an occasional crash of glacial ice. use to give our knowledge of the town strict definite- In the wholeworld outside of the Himalayas we ness and accuracy. Our forty-first standpoint is set knowhow few peaks exceed sixteen thousand feet, down inthe southern part of the mapped district. and yet, it is claimed that in the entire Himalayan The direction and divergence of the red lines show range there are eleven hundred peaks each exceeding that we are to face north and look along a broad twenty thousand feet. It helps to understand the vast- thoroughfare with a large openspace at the west ness of these masses of land and rock when we state (left). thatit is a well demonstrated scientific fact that a plumb-lineis drawn considerably from the perpen- Position 41. Clean and erily Chowringhee Road (Bsplanade at left), looking north over Calautta , dicular by the proximity of the Himalayas, and that the waters of the seas southward are drawn several We have taken our position on the roof of the new hundred feet towards them. As a corollary to these Young Men’s Christian AssociationBuilding where ascertained facts it follows that ships sailing from we look north along Chowringhee street and over a . Ceylon to Bombay or Calcutta are literally sailing up portion of the spaciouspublic esplanade called the hill. Maidan, in the splendid city of Calcutta. Calcutta here is one of the largest and most magnifi- “Northward soared Thestainles ramps of huge Himala’swall cent cities of Asia, the capital of Hindustan, and the Ranged in white ranks against the blue,-untrod, seat of the supreme Government of the British in Infinite,wonderful,-whose uplands vast India. It is spread over eight square miles along this

I And lifted universe of crest and crag, east bank of the Hugli whichis thegreat western i Shoulder and shelf, green slope and icy horn, branch of the Ganges. The city at our feet is nearly Rivenravine, and splintered precipice I? climbingLed thought higher and higher, until a hundred miles from the sea by the winding course It seemed to stand in heaven and speak with Gad. of the river which, between Calcutta and the sea, passes Beneath the snows, dark forests spread, sharp laced through a dreary waste of low and level country cov- With leaping cataracts and veiled with clouds; ered with giant grass and brushwood, the haunt of Lower grew rose-oaks and the great fir groves tigers and other beasts of prey. This great metropolis Where echo pheasants’ call and panthers’ cry, has now a population nearly nine hundred thousand. Clatter of wild sheep on the stones and scream of Of circling eagles; under these, the plain It extends three miles northward from where we stand Gleamled like a praying-carpet at the foot and a mile and a half southward (behind us), a mile Of these divinest altars.” eastward or to our right, and, by a walk of one mile I’ Porition 40. Map 1 41. -7 l .- . . 140 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 141

across the magnificent esplanade to our left, we should are detached andsurrounded by spacious grounds. reach theHugli, which is lined with ghats or docks Suburbs in many directions are far-reaching and dotted throughouta good part of its course throughthe with fine villas set in tropical foliage. You see in the city. To our left across the esplanade nearthe river towers, chimneys and clouds of smoke in the distance is the Citadel ofFort William, the most extensive thesigns of industry; you may inferfrom the elec- fortress in India, begun by Lord Clive, after the battle trictramway on this broad thoròughfarethat elec- of Plassey in 1756. The works of thisfortress are tricity is to thefore in thisoriental metropolis. so extensive

pography. We are lookingdirectly towards Darjeel- from it in manydirections and are shaded by wide ing and our last position in the mountains. Following spreading btrees (ficus-relàgàosa) . But the most a straight line a little to the right of the Post Of- interesting feature of this viewis the assemblage of fice, in two miles we should reach the Howrah Bridge water-carriers, called bkeestis (bees-tees) . There are which spans the Hugli to Howrah, the great suburb many hundreds of thousands of bheestis in India, in- of Calcutta on the western side of the river (at our deed I do not think I should be far away from the left) and which is the terminal of the East Indian truthin saying thatthere are millionsemployed as Railway. (We shallsee the bathing there whenwe water-carriers in this parched and thirsty land. The. take Position 43.) Towards the lower or southern bheestiis the universal water-carrier ; even in large end of the Maidan the course of the river turns west- cities where thereare publicwater-works’ and ward and at a point four miles from where wenow hydrants at every corner and water is furnished to stand are the famous Botanical Gardens on the right every house, the bheesti is still required to carry water bank of the Hugli (Positions 52-53). Still farther for manypurposes. A very small proportion of the down the river is the well-known Kalighat temple inhabitants of Indiaare supplied with water from which we shall visit later (Position 48). The Zoölogi- public water-works. Wells are scarce and water must Ca1 Gardens and the Belvedere are both south of the often be carried great distances. In a torrid clime Maidan; the Belvedere is the name of the grounds like that of India vast quantities of water are used, and Palace of the Lieutenant Governor of India. and not only for domestic purposes-much agricultural irrigation is done by the bheesti; he is an important If we cross the Maidan to our left and to the point factor of life in India, and not only in India, but in marked 42, a little south of the Government House, most oriental countries. In Palestine and in Egypt we find our next position for study. in ancient times, as at the present time, the bheesti PositJon 4a. Welcome fellows in thirsty Imiia- under difTerentnames has been the water-purveyor. bheestìs (wafer-carrierrs)wìth fheir leather bottles His skin-bottle has been the water-vessel of the ages. -Calcutta Such bottles were in use in Greece and Rome; Homer We are looking east across the northern end of the mentions them in both the Odyssey and the Iliad; they Esplanade or Maidan ; wecan see the southern en- are mentioned by Virgil inhis Georgks, also by trance to the grounds of the Government House; off Herodotus ; they are used in Spain in the present day at the left we see a statue of Lord Lawrence (See and are called borrachas. The effect of heat on these page 215). Let me ask you to notice this broad hard skirts is referred to in Psalms xix :81-“I am become boulevard with a median line of lamp-posts on which like a bottle in the smoke (big-headed) yet do I not you see a warning to careless drivers, “keep to the forget thy statutes.” The expansion of these skins left.” This finemetaled drive follows the bank of (bottles) by fermentation .is referred to in Luke v :37 the Hugli for two miles; other fine drives branch -“No man putteth new wine in old bottles” (skins), Porltlonr 41 42. Map 7 Posltkn 42. MDP 7 .. 144 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 145

etc. How these skin-bottles are prepared is quite Position 43. Bathingat a ghat on the Hugli by obvious, except in thematter of tanning, which re- Howrah Bridge, Calcutta quires special treatmentto secure entire impervious- We are looking up the Hugli River and westward ness to water. In some cases, however, they remain from theHowrah Bridge. This position istaken to untanned. In some partsof India street-sprinkling give you an idea of the Hindu bathinghabit; much is done by wagons forthat purpose as in European bathing does not necessarily signify great cleanliness countries, but by far the greater part is done by the any more than much praying denotes much sanctity. bheesti with his skin-bottles. This bathing is ceremonial rather than sanitary; it is He belongs to a certain caste, and is therefore in a in obedience to the Koran rather than from a knowl- class by himself; he would aboutas soon lose his edge of hygiology that many Mussulmen bathe (of head as dishonor his caste. These fellows belong to course I am referring only to the lower classes), and an “occupational” caste; that is, one based on similar with theHindus bathing is the only means of ef- occupation. Although they aregrimy and half-nude fectually counteracting or removing spiritual pollution. they would consider themselves defiled and dishonored To avoid and remove pollution it is necessary that were they to partake of food or drink from a vessel there should be complete immersion; so the regula- which you or one of another caste had touched. Here tion method is to close the nostrils with the thumb and then we have exemplified the saying :-“What is one forefinger and plunge over; one hair left above water man’s food is another man’spoison.” Their food is mightbring spiritual disaster. The bath is necessary often filthy and offensive; that does not matter; with before eating, before entering a temple, and in many them food does not defile nomatter how unsanitary other cases. The polluting touch of the most friendly unless it has been touched by a hand of another caste. European requires a bath-absolution. Eventhe. Notwithstandingthe bheesti’s punctiliousness in the Buddhist makes a bath a sacredact before worship. matter of caste, you can secure his service of drudgery Throughout the entire East the bath seems to be con- at ten cents a day. sidered a sort of aqueous fumigation. Many of those who are so carefulabout attending tothe orthodox To find another place from which we can study bath are altogether ignorant and indifferent about the Indian life we turn sharp to our left and walk north- simplest laws of health and cleanliness. The Hugli in ward one mile to the point marked 43 oq our map. which you see all these people bathing is an arm of There, at the end of the great floating Howrah Bridge, the Ganges, but the water of the Ganges has lost some we may witness a scene common at many points along of itsvirtue before reachingCalcutta, indeed, the the banks of the river within the city. Hugli has wandered so far away from the Ganges as to be well nigh an utter scape-grace; it answers, how- ever,for ceremonial bathing. Thereare many bath- ‘0 . .I, ing places along the Hugli in this vicinity. There are Poelelon 42. Map 7 Pdtlon 43. . Map 1 146 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 147

at least seven beyond this on the same bank, and prob- ably as many more in the opposite direction. The next Position 44. Street showman exhibithg superb& handsome snakes before an admiring crowd, Cal- bathing ghat beyond this is where you see those build- cutta ings extending towards the river; at that place men and women bathetogether. When possible a Hindu bathes in a natural stream-even thewater of the India is a land of snakes, and a trip over the great holy Ganges would lose much of its salvatory efficacy countrywithout seeing a specimen would be inex- if put into a tub. As you learned at Benares, it mat- cusable;therefore if we cannot see the deadly wild ters not how filthy and polluted the water, its appli- order we will halt a littlewith a professional snake cation is a religious requirement, and, as with some exhibitor. who are not Hindus,externals must receive scrupu- There is probably nothingin India which more lous consideration, no matter how iniquitous the inner clearly shows the benighted ignorance of the masses man. than their folk-lore and their superstitions concerning On certain festal days a much greater number would snakes. Whateverinspires fear breeds superstition, be found here; at such a time the streets leading to- andmystery begets credulity. Ignorance is the soil wards the ghats are lined with bathers going and re- in which a belief in the miraculous grows; therefore, turningand carrying chattiesand other articles of when the people are mostly ignorant we may expect the bath. You have notforgotten our study of the belief inmantra, charms, exorcisms, incantations, in every form of preposterous supernaturalism. In India- chatty market at Lahore (Position 16) ; you may here there is certainly a justifiable source of fear in the notice some brass chatties on the beach-those are used at the bath for pouring water over the head be- reptilianfauna, when theaverage annua1 death-rate forethe concluding plunge below- thesurface. The from snake-bites alone exceeds twenty thousand peo- absence of entire nudity is probably owing to English ple, and, when it is remembered that many cases are not recorded in order to escape inquest, it is-not un- law rather than to innate modesty. likely that this isfar below thetrue aggregate. The . The Hugli above the Howrah bridge is a scene of shippingactivity; a swingin the bridge allows the credulity of people with regard to snakes is not con- fined to the people of India; in every country there passage of smaller craft. The ocean-liners are below are popular superstitions and popular ignorance about this bridge. I thesnake family. I thinkabout half the worldstill Our next position, marked 44 on the map, you will believe that withtheir harmless littletongues, they find on a street leading to this bathing place. We shall can sting, when they can only threaten. Nearly every animal its instinct of self-defense warns an intruder see there a crowd of morningbathers stopping to by witness a street showman’s exhibit. -can say in the various languages of the animal world 1 --Beware. The snake darts outits forkedlingual 1 organ; woman, its primeval conqueror, flourishes a .. porltkn 43. Map 7 Pdtbm44. mpt 148 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 149 broomstick; the dog growls; the bull paws the earth known by his erect striking attitude and by the flat- and bellows; while the poor, much-maligned crawler tened condition of his neck,which always assumes offers only a silent protest. Next to a mouse a woman this form when he is enraged and ready to make an fears a snake, and she ought to; ever since she plead, attack. There is adark figure on the back of the “The serpent beguiled me,” she hasbeen slandering flattened neck which is called the “spectacles” because the poor beast. In India many more women than men of its semblance to apair of spectacles, but in this are bitten by snakes-here is the eternal and inevitable view it is only partially seen. When the cobra is not law of retribution-enmity is still between the serpent irritated his neck takes on the usual shape andhe and the woman. remains prostrate. Cobras strike by thrusting forward The snake is sacred to nearly every tribe in India with the erect part of the body, but they do not, as save probablyin Bhotan, where, it is said, a certain many believe, spring from the ground to make an at- class, on finding the burrow of a python, smoke him tack-at least I have never seen them “jump” as many out and then at once set to work to devour him. Is believe they do, and I have killed several very large it then any wonder that natives quickly assembleto wit- cobras in their native jungles. In every case they ness any exhibition of a creature so closely related to behaved like other snakes, except intheir pugilistic their religious beliefs, and so instrumental in the death- attitude of defense. Venomous show-snakes usually rate of the population ? We have before us itinerant have their fangs removed, and these fellows are snake- exhibitors of snakes; there are thousands in this coun- exhibitors rather than snake-charmers. The latter use try whose sole occupation has to do with snakes. a musical instrument, made from a gourd attached to Wherever you see these fellows halt to exhibit their a bamboo reed. The snake-charmer is a humbug out- wiggling stockin trade, you willfind aEuropean; and-out. The snake has no properly developed sense from the westerner they expect backsheesh; from a of hearing to enable him to know musical tones; if he fellow-countryman they may expect a worshipful had, he never could be charmed by the vile, strident recognition of their ophidian protegés, but no fees. noise that comes fromthe so-called charmers’ reed. Government rewards are offered for the destruction The absurdity of what pretends to be snake-charming of venomous serpents, but in many cases the corrective should be obvious to any observer. The charmer, while is worse than the pest because it sets many natives to he sits within easy reach of his snake, gives him a breeding snakes for the reward. quick tap with his hand to irritate and put him into The largest snake we see here is a small python, his erect mode of defense; then he plays on his reed non-venomous and easily tarnd. The smallest is the and constantly sways his body back and forth to hold deadly“Russell’s viper.” You caneasily distinguish the attention of his snakeship. At the first opportunity the widely known cobra (cobra-da-capello), the the cobra wit1 lower his body and break away from his venomousspecies which is responsible for the death entertainer, when the latter snatches him by the tail of twenty thousand people annually. He is easily !’ and by a tantalizing jerk brings him back into posi- !; Poaltlon 44. Aap 7 ‘r ’ Pdtloa 44. Map 7 150 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 151 tion. In this way the charmer holds his deaf and re- luctant auditor, and this performance is what is popu- rupees.” He hesitated ; I insisted. We went to larly called snake-charming ! another placewhere he performed another pirouette While traveling in Ceylon I took considerable trouble of snake-charmingmusic and motion; there was no to test the snake-charming capabilities of these pre- response. He made two excuses,one, that no more tenders. I offered a professional one rupee for every snakes would appear on the same day after one had cobra he would bring from snake-haunts by his musi- beenkilled ; the -other, that cobras areafraid of cal charm, feeling confident that a creature with tact foreigners. The demonstration wascomplete, but it enough to beguile a womanwould never himself be was unnecessary, or should be unnecessary to even a beguiled by anything so charmless. He accepted my casualobserver. Yet considerable money is spent in proposition. We went to the jungle, to the most ser- India in hiring these pretending snake-charmers to rid pent-haunted nooks; he played on his reed, and, as he compounds of the dangerous creatures, and it is said played,peered into every nook; heswayed his body a considerable trade is donein first populating the to and fro and gave many variations to the weird surroundings of bungalows with snakes and then re- shrill notes of his instrument; but the cobras didn’t ceiving a remuneration for securing their riddance. “show up.” I saw he was disinclined to remain by One reason forthe mortality from snake-bites is me, and was constantly adjusting the ample folds of manifest in this scene-notice the bare feet and bare legs ; here the men are in a city thoroughfare and 1 his grimy garments. While hecontinued to pipein a half-hearted wayhe strolled away behind a thick wearing their gayest togs. In their humble cots at i covert, and while there calledexcitedly-“come quick, home, often surrounded by .jungle, they always claim í mausfer!” and sure enough there was a cobramak- the privilege of primitive innocence and go about in . ing hisway in the thicket. I soon brought him to Adamic dishabille; their home privilege of nudity is the cobra’s opportunity, but the cobra does not seek I bay and dispatched himwith my cane,then promptly liquidated. Of course, the Orphean charmer was opportunity-he is a night prowler; he acts, like most pleased, but I was not. I had a suspicion from the snakes,only on the defensive, and strikes with his l outset that he had a tame specimen ensconced some- deadly fangs only when molested or trodden upon. I where in his clothes ;my suspicion was quite confirmed You see a few amas and pice (Indian coins) scat- when my vicious onslaught with my canewas en- tered upon the outspread cloth. The man who holds countered withsuch extraordinary passivity. I had the “Russell’s viper” holds iri his right hand a small snake-stone, which they claim to believe, applied to a ! lost not only my mpee, but also the glory of a worthy contest with a real venomous and ferocious reptile. In snake-bite, neutralizes the poison. I short he showed too little fight to be a wildsnake. I believe the snake is the most universally dreaded I sought further evidence of the deception of snake and loathed creature in the animalkingdom. Why charming; I said, Tome on-more cobras,more does a morbid imagination, as in the case of delirium tremens, turnto snakes? Simplybecause they are ,, Poslffoa 44. ïhp 7 152 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

the most loathsome to the normal mind. I do not hesitate to say that much of our repugnance is prejudice increased through all ages by misrepresenta- tion, and ignorant credulity. Every calumny conceiv- able has been charged against the snake-that he stings with his tongue .(a thing a snake never does, but peo- Position 45. Xooking northwest acms tree-shaded ple often) ; that he charms his prey; that one species Dalhousie Square aad its ch&rmínglittle lake to forms himself into a hoop and pursues his victim. It the Pod Office, Calcutta is said thatthe Malabar basiliskkills by a look. In We are standing on a balcony of the Telegraph Bengal the whip-snake is believed to flickpeople on Office building, at the southeast comer of Dalhousie the back with its tail, producing a fatal wound. One Square. Weare looking across a portion of the species in the Punjab is said to drink the breath of square to the Post Office, that great white building peoplewhen asleep. Another variety is said to tie with the huge dome, flanked by colonnades which we up the legs of the buffalo with its coils, and then suck can see reflected in the water of the tank. The Hugli its milk. In some quarters they believe when the lamp is only a few hundred yards to our left; as we are I flickers, a cobra has entered the house. looking northwest we can see the river and the How- The various remedies for snake-bites inIndia are rah bridge in the distance. Not so far away, and worthless. Many kinds of snake-stones are in use; to the left, we can recognize the masts of ships lying some they pretend are taken from the head of the at their docks. The bathing ghat which we visited snake, some from thecharred bones. Crooke says* (Position 43), is at the end of that bridge on the one is recorded as being found in the detritus of the Calcutta side of the river. Sutlej Valley ; another on examination proved to be One hundred and fifty years ago a British fort stood l a calcuhs taken from someanimal’s stomach. There where the Post Office now stands. Only a short dis- are numerous other cures, all equally absurd; snake- tance beyond the Post Office there is a building with I bite cures are as prevalent as rheumatism cures and a tablet of marble built into the wall which marks about as efficacious. Thereare four. hundred and the place known to history as the “Black Hole of Cal- fifty species of snakes in India, which is nearIy one- cutta.” The Nabob of Bengal had captured and third of the total number in the whole world. plundered this early fort after a spirited defense. The Governor fled, and many of the English were taken When we were looking up Chowringhee street from prisoners and cast into a deep dark dungeon over the Y.M. C. A.,building, we had a distant glimpse of night. In the morning, out of one hundred and twen- the Post Office and 1 spoke of Dalhousie Square. NOW ty-six, only twenty-three were found alive. This fort we will take our stand on a building directly overlook- was the first Fort William. Forts in those days con- - 4n;”arl 9 *See Crooke’s Things Indian. r\qqnichmpnt cell called the ‘‘Black Hole” ; the

Position 44. Map 7 ‘I *

! l 154 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA , 155 punishment cell of old Fort William became the minded, unbiased traveler, looking over this great city memorable “Black Hole of Calcutta,” and its old site, and witnessing its marvelous development, which typi- as I said, is now built over at the farther side of the fies modernized conditions in every part of the great building we see beyond the Post Office. empire, cannot but admire and feel grateful for what Dalhousie Square was formerly called the “Tank” Britain has done for the uplifting of the world. because of this body of water, which forms a source of supply for the bheestis or water-carriers, This beau- Our next position you will find marked on the map tiful breathing place for the panting summer popula- with the number 46. tion is lined on every side with shady walks and filled with tropical flowers and shrubbery. On the opposite Position 46. How Hindu cows enjoy life in Calcutta side of the square from where we stand-that is, the -sidewalk scene on Earriaon street, lookìng west north side-is the Secretariat, a noble structure which occupies the site of the old Writers’Building where Did you ever before see so many animals apparently many illustrious Indianstatesmen commenced their in a state of supreme bliss ? Did you ever before see public career. We see below us on thenear side a herd of fat kine in the possession of a monopoly of of thesquare a portion of animportant building- all good things ? They are atthis moment in command the Dalhousie Institute,built to contain statues and of the sidewalk and the sidewalk is a thoroughfare in busts of famous men. Among its many memorials to a great city ; they are fat, and by their blinking com- great men are those to theMarquis of Dalhousie, posure we know they are unmolested andin the Brigadier General Neil, SirHenry Havelock, Sir exercise of their bovine prerogatives. Talk about James ,Outramand General Nicholson who led the glorious independence and liberty ! The most radiant, attack on Delhi. liberty-enjoying American is a craven, law-appressed The Englishunder the English EastIndia Com- slave when compared with these cows. They not only pany, represented first by John Charnock, established command the sidewalk, but they command the street; a footing here as early as 1686, that is over two hun- they occupy temples and shops ; they walk into private dredand twenty years ago, when the present great homes; they stampede the sweetmeat stalls and par- city was only a small native village. Now this square take,unrestrained and unchastised, of all the is the very heart of a vast and tumultuous city, sur- “sweeties.” Their license is unrestricted;their au- rounded on every side by great buildings, electric thority is unquestioned; they have the freedom of the tramways, offices and shops, andbustling social and city; they are Cows Plenipotentiary. Superstition may commercial life. be a bad ‘thing for people, but it is a good thing for We frequentlyhear narrow, uninformed and en- cows. Hindu cows don’t need to work out their own vious cynics referto British world-development as salvation-it isworked outfor them. They hold the expansion of Grab and Greed. Butany fair- heavy policies of life insurance; they not only enjoy hospitality, but they command the privilege of access Poaitlon 46. Map 7 m-46. rvLp 7 156 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

to hospitals. Their right to the law of habeas corpus is never questioned. Their giving of milk is optional. These cows are sacred, and anyone can tell by their closed eyes that they are devotional. With all their luxurious and pampered conditions of life we may infer fromtheir glossy coats that they never hada twinge of gout nor a moment of dyspeptic depression. What more could mortal beast wish ? What a blessed thing to be a holy cow ! Feasted, privileged, honored, worshipped, the tenant of souls departed, apotheosized ! When the day of transmigration comes I would like to engage tobe a Bos-lndiczcs. At just what time the cow began to be looked upon as sacred to the Hindu does not seem to be known. It is well-known that back in Aryan times there was no restriction on the killing of cattle. Crooke in Things Indiarc says :- “In states under a purely Hindu gov- ernment, like that of Nepal, cow-killing is strictly pro- hibited; and in recent years the Hindu revival has led to a serious agitation in favor of prohibition of cattle- slaughter. To this appeal theanswer of theIndian Government has always been, that not only the British

9 troops and residents, but also a largenumber of Mus- f sulrnen andthe menial population consume beef;pro- hibition of slaughter is out of the question. In spite I of these measures serious erneutes have occurred which I cause much embarrassment to the Government. . , . Where the people can act themselves, as in their caste tribunals, the penalties for killing a cow even by ac- cident are very severe. Fra Paolina,writing at the close of theeighteenth century of SouthIndia, says that if a Brahmin killed a cow or man, all his caste- fellows uniteagainst him, cut off his scalp-lock, de- prive him of his sacred thread,and expel him from 158 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 159

Position 47. Hìndu goddem Kdi, the Terrible, who tory over Rokta Vija, the commander-in-chief of the demands bloody sacrifice-idol in street, Calcutta enemies’forces, and was so elated by her feats of We are in a street leading east from Chawringee prowess that she began to dance so vehemently that Road as this man bearing an image of the goddess she shook the world, and the gods were afraid that Kali passes by. Ne comes from a factory where these it would fallto pieces. In their distress they cried images are made, and this completed one is being con- to her husband Shiva for help. As he saw no other veyed to the customer Whò ordered it. A very flourish- meansof pacifying her, he felldown prostrate, ingtrade is donein the manufacture of gods and amongst the slain. Directing her gaze to the ground, goddesses-1 say in the manufacture of gods and god- she observed that she was dancing upon the body of desses, knowing that more or less intelligent Hindus her husband, and became at oncecalm with shame, will tell you that these are regarded only as symbols and thrust out her large tongue. In the ímage which of impersonal forces, but the great majority of Hindus represents her at the Kali Puja, or Kali Fair, she is believe that these figures embody the actual spirits black as her name implies, and her husband is lying whom they worship. down under her feet. Her tongue protrudes from her Kali is a Hindu goddess, the wife of Shiva. She is mouth; her forearms are extended, one hand grasping the cruel, dark goddess of Destruction. She is some- a sword, another the head of a giant, and the other times called Durga or Tara, also Parvati. The name two signalling to her hosts. As ear-rings she has two Calcuttais derived from Kuli ghat, or the landing dead bodies of her foes ; her neck is. adorned with a place of Kali. According to a legend,when Shiva’s necklace of skulls, and her only garment, a zone, is wife was cut to pieces by order of the gods, a finger made with hands of her vanquished foes, whilst her fell near here on the bank of the Hugli river. At the hair falls dawn in long tresses to her waist. Intoxi- placewhere the finger fell a temple was built about cated with the blood of her foes, her eyes flash with three hundred years ago. This temple we shallvisit rage, her eyebrows are dyedwith crimson, and her later (Position 48). blood flows down her breast. Her worship is in keep- You willnotice in this representation of Kali that ing withher character. It takes place on the night her huge black tongue is protruding and that her arms of the new moon, at midnight, when numbers of ani- are extended-her foot rests upon the prostrate body mals are sacrificed to her. The darkness of the night, of Shiva, her husband-also that shewears a neck- the bleating of the victims, the flashing of the sacri- lace of skulls. She isusually represented as having ficial knife, the shrieks of the ministering priests as only a zone for a garment, decorated with the hands they cry, Jai, Jai, Terra, the flicker of torches, the ges- of her enemies; her ear-rings are the bodies of her tures of the intoxicated worshippers, make this one of vanquished foes. Wilkins thus refers to Kali :- “In the most terrible of all the festivals in India.” the dreadful war with the demons, Durga, or Kali, or Most images are made of strips of barnboo filled Tara, as she is called at this time, gained a great vic- out with strara- and plastered with mud and dried until

Podtloa 47, hp7 4% -p t

,.

- -- CALCUTTA 160 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE l61 i they are rigid; then they are painted and decorated. loved ! O Sankara (Siva) protect my life, my honor, Domestic images like the one before us are often my offspring, my wives and my wealth. As thou art II made largely of wood, then painted and gilded in part, the only defender of all, O goddess, the most beloved and gorgeously ornamented and draped. Finally, in the world, enter and stay with this sacrifice as long before they are suitable for worship, they must be re- as I am worshipping thee.’ First the -right eye, then dedicated, consecrated or sanctified by a priest. The the left, then the eye on the forehead are touched by process or ceremony of consecration-or the opera- the priest, and after this the other parts of the body, tion of endowing the wood and mud images with the andan appropriate mantra recited, by which means potentialities of the real Kali, or Darga, alias Parvati the ceremony of Pranpratishtha, or the. giving. of life

or Tara-is curious. The image is mud, but the touch to the imagev is performed.” of the priest can make it a goddess. After the material Many other secondary ceremonies follow for sev- part of a Kali has been constructed and placed in the eral days. If then life is given to theimage in this home of him who has ordered it, the next thing is its way, bow can the more intelligent Hindus declare that ordination, or the awakening of the goddess, which, the Kali image is only a symbol ? I cannot answer according to Wilkins, is somewhat as follows :- my own question; I cannot expound dogma. On the , “When the time arrives for the commencement of fourth day the goddess is supposed to take leave of the worship, the head of the family, after certain puri- the image, accompanied by elaborate dismissal cere- fying ceremonies, declares his name and expresses his monies. purpose to perform the Darga Puja with proper rites. For our next study we will proceed to Kali Ghat He then in dueform appoints the officiating priests, temple, a few miles down the oldbed of the Hugli, who in his name and on his behalf perform the cere- ! 14 where we shall see sacrifices in honor of the black- monies. . . . The most interesting part of the 1’ ceremony is that in which the goddess is invited to tongued goddess. The spot is a littletoo farfrom i visit the house, and dwell in the image that has been the center of the town to be set down cm our local ! map. l , preparedfor her. The priest, in order to obtain this blessing, after several other ceremonies have been per- Position 48. Seven goats slain, but Kali wante mere .. formed places his right hand on thebreast of the -horrid sacrHoe to the Hindu gotidem, Calcutta image and says ‘Om ! .Welcome,Devi, to my house We are in theinner courtyard of the well-known I with thyeight Saktas. Accept my worship done ac- Kalighat temple, built on the spot where Kali’s finger ,,!: cordingthetoSastras, O Dispenser of blessings; O fell (See page 158). TheHugli is only a hundred ; I Lotus-eyed ! I performgreatthis Autumal festi- yardsdistant in the direction towards which we are val. Respond to me, O great goddess ; Annihilator of looking. We can see at the right some steps leading all transgressions in this unfordable ocean of the up to the main portion of the temple. To the left are I 1: world ! Save me,blessed goddess, I salute thee, be- a number of timorous kids or half-pown goats bleat- , porltkn 5, 46. I’ ’ Poaitbn 47. Map 7

I i 162 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPS CALCUTTA 163 I ingan unheeded appeal. The bystanders are attend- built the temple and donated one hundred and ninety- ants and those also who have brought sacrifices. Most four acres of land for its maintenance. A priest and of them are more attracted by the camera than by the his descendants have controlled this temple property gruesome work inwhich they are engaged. There is for three hundred years. They have taken the name no sign of a devotional feeling in these cruel sacri- Haldar, and at the present time continue to hold the fices. This beheading goes on day by day. The prin- estate. They have amassed vast wealth, not so much cipal religious festival of the year takes place on the from the proceeds of the property as from offerings second day afterthe Darga Puja, when the temple made to the shrine by penitential Kali-worshippers. is visited' by thousands of pilgrims. On those days It is a dangerous,thing to attacha blood-god to the slaughter of innocents is sickening to witness. It one's pantheon;it puts a premium on cruelty and is one of those scenes displaying so much ignorance, sacrifice, and gods and goddesses are not always satis- superstition and cruelty, that one feels that the world fied with animal sacrifice. You have read of Thuggism is still very dark. This brutal work goes on year by which refers to a class of professional robbers and year, all the result of execrable superstition-the murderers inIndia-a kind of secret religious fra- British Government permits it in the name of religion, ternity, murdering stealthily by strangling, by break- for the sake of peace and harmony with the natives. ing the backs of their victims, or by poisoning with A V-shaped post is placed firmly in the ground, the datura (a deadly narcotic thorn-apple). Indeed, the victim's head is wedged firmly in this, a pin is placed Thugs practised systematic killing in many different over the head of the bleating animal, and a savage ways. It is admitted thatThuggism had itsorigin stroke with that hooked knife does the work. These in Kali-worship. Many thousands of people were executions are performed in rapid succession, and on killedby Thugs in India, which is to say that many certain days from one to two hundred ghastly heads thousands of human beings were killed by Kali-wor- may be seenheaped up about this guillotine. The ship. quivering carcasses and bloodyheads are carried to This hideous reveler in blood is supposed also to the market places, to be sold at extra prices and eaten have power to bestow favors. Families in sorrow, or with unusual zest because they have a sacrificial flavor. parents desiring a son, vow to Kali that if the favor is Notice the heap of tough clay for the deadly knife to granted a kidwill be offered to her. In the main fall into that its keen edge may not be dulled. part of the temple there is a gorgeous buttawdry How far these sacrifices areto gratify the blood- image of the goddess. In front of the temple there is hunger of Kali, and how far to put pice in the tem- a platform on which the priests read the Sustras. ple coffers and advance the price of meat, we are all Sheep an,dsometimes buffaloes are slaughtered. At freeto imagine. all times the sights in and about the temple are abomin- A member of a rich family, who owned alarge able. Ongreat occasions,when the approaches are 1' estate out here beside the river, cleared the jungle', jostling with people leading their sacrificial victims

I, Pmltion 48. NIep 7 I' ' POßltlbO 46- mp7 164 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUT‘I‘A 165 I and the temple and the beheading place are crowded for pennies-piety for pencepenance for pay. Sis with grimy and ill-visaged pilgrims squirting the red eyes are closed as were the eyes of the sacrgd Hindu saliva of betel-juice over everything, together with the cows, therefore he must have acquired yoga or union bleating of sheep and goats, the floor slippery with withDivinity, yet I noticed thathe. occasionally blood, the stifling air redolent of personal fumes and glanced towards the cloth by his side. This is a droll everyknowable and unknowablestench, it is what occupation. one might imagine to be a union of Hell, Pandemonium Crooke tells about some ordek of jogis who have and an abattoir. possessed so much yoga that they coulddie at will Weleave the repulsivescene and jostle our way and return to life at a concertedtime. One day a through the approach lined with beggars, lepers, jug- jogi of this order mistook his reckoning and never re- glers, jogis, and fakirs, stopping for a momentnot vived. Others have themselves buried for a time and far away to witness the performance of a professional then resurrect when they feel like it, It would prob- penmce-doer. ably be no great economic loss to the country if they did not “feel like it,” for as Crooke says, “most of Position 49. Hindu devotee doing penance on a bed them are little short of impostors and sturdy rogues.” of spikes near the shrine of Kali, Calcutta Some,however, are worthy men, and lead useful When we were at Mt. Abu we had occasion to say lives. The same authority above referred to states something about jogis or fakirs.” We are now before that there are five million beggars in India, that of another of those queer men. He is said to be doing these seven hundred thousand are religious mendicants, penance. I do notthink it ispenance so muchas it and that the number of fakirs and jogis must be much is a “stunt” for alms. If this feat of torture be a larger. real austerity, his offenses must be many and great- You-~ will see thatthis jogi wears a rosary. The if for tips, he is a fakir indeed. This fellow is called rosary is generally worn in eastern countries; its use a religiousdevotee. Do you think there is the righ;: was probably introduced to western countries as late sort of heart in that corpse-like carcass withwhich as the time of the Crusades. The Buddhists, the to worship ? Yousay-judge not-I say a man Hindus and the Mohammedans wear rosaries. The who does not think is a fool, and even muttered beads are made of many substances-pearl,coral, thought is judgment. We see in this case, as we saw wood, and many kinds of stone. The number of beads at Mt. Abu, that the body is smeared with ashes. in a rosary varies greatly. The sects differ in the num- Does thismean “sack-cloth and ashes ?” More ashes ber of beads worn; a Shiva worshipper wears thirty- than sack-cloth there seem to be. What is that cloth two, or that numberdoubled ; a Vishnu worshipper spread out by his side signify?There is one big one hundred and eight. Many of their beads are made English pennydeposited thereon. It is clearly a bid with facets, and much importance is attached to the number of facets. A celibate jogi wears beadswith 166 ISDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 167 eleven facets; wedded jogis wear beads with only two facets. Some wear rosaries made of dead men’s has tasted human flesh a preference is formed which teeth, and others those made from snake-bones. These encouragesthe practice of killing human beings. It rosaries are used to tally their worship. Our jogi on is much easier to creep stealthily up to some native the bedof spikes wears a long string, but how many hutwhere children are at play aboutthe compound, and what they signify I cannot tell. and snatch a child, than to pursue a deer. Because of the extension of railways, the develop- We should see at least one of the characteristic ment of agriculture,and destruction by huntersthis sights in the Zoölogical Gardens of Calcutta. ferocious beast is becoming moreretiring than in former times. Hunter reports that in three years one Position 50. Famous ‘‘man-eater at Calcutta who of thesedreaded man-eaters killed onehundred and devoured two hundred men, women and children before he was captured five people, anothereighty, while a third was the dreaded pest of thirty native villages; a fourth killed I know what that fierce brute is thinking at this and devoured one hundredand twenty-seven people, moment :-“Only for those sturdybars, I would and for many weeks ‘closed an important highway to feast once more on human flesh.” I know that by his all travel. It is believed that Bengal is the original record of twohundred similar feasts, he could not home of thetiger, and from thence hishabitat has fail to entertain such a thought, if tigers have thoughts. graduallyextended northward to China, eastward to The tablet on top of this animal’s cage states that he the Malay peninsula, and latterly to South India; the has devoured two hundred human victims, and if the fact thatthere are notigers in Ceylon leads to the fact of this record had not been clearly established reasonable inference thatthe migrationhad not ex- it is not likely it would be registered in such a place. tended to southern India before the separation of that Higher records than this are claimed for some man- island fromthe mainland. Thereare no tigers in eaters, but it is always difficult to obtain absolute cer- Africa, and it is admitted by those who are familiar tainty in such matters. Sometimes a man-eater will with the characteristics of both animals that the tiger appear at places forty miles apart in thecourse of is a much more ferocious beast than the African “King a day or two. of the forest.” There are several reasons given as to why the tiger Fish-stories are proverbial. Snake-stories may a,cquires the habit of killing human beings. Some- easily rank second as a field forthe licentiate times a mothertigress with cubs finds it difficult to of hyperbole. Tiger-stories will surelytake thethird supplyher young with food, andthis urgent family pla’ce. Exaggeration concerning the size of tigers and requirement compels her to make indiscriminate at- their deeds is so great and so common, and the state- tacks. Inother cases decrepitude, or physical dis- ments of hunters and naturalists are so diverse, that ability renders it necessary to capture something less it is very difficult to reach the truth. One man gives agile and fleet than common game, and when once he a case of atiger with a bullock inhis jaws jump- Poeítlon 60. Map 7 PmltlOn80. Imp7 168 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 169

\ ing a six-foothedge without breaking a branch. deep haunts the Tarai and the reed-covered plains Otners tell about their skipping off freely with cows of i of Bengal are likely to remain secure coverts for many I in their mouths,when the cows are much taller and II larger than the tigers. Of course, there are innumer- generations to come. The annual average death-rate i able joke tiger-stories connected with hunts and hair- from tigers is abaut ten thousand human beings, yet, l’ breadth escapes,wherein the beastin the story has great as that number is, it is scarcely one-half th*#

~ been expandedforty to feet; other narrators withless chargeable to the deadly cobra. The stories told about a tiger’s sucking the blood gullible auditors or less magnifying powerin their visual organs have contracted their quarry to fifteen of his victims are now known to be myths; there are or twenty feet. We mayexpect something like ac- still many theories offered as to how he destroys his prey. My belief is that he has no particular method, curacy from such authority as Captain Forsythe, who but seizes it sott claims that a tiger over tenfeet is unusually large, in any of “catch-as-catch-can” as or from the famous sportsman Sir Samuel Baker who other animals do; he has, however, a regular way of fixes the average at ninefeet six inches.Baker’s devouring his “kill,” eating first the hind quarters, if G his repast be from an ox, and returning a second day estimate correspondswith that of Mr. Sanderson, another eminent hunter, who says the largest he has to finish the carcass. There are several ways of hunting this fierce deni- . everkilled measured nine feet six inches from tip zen the jungle : the safer and more comfortable way totip. The moral isobvious: with any respect for of is on the backs of howdahed elephants that roam about truth about fish, snakes or tigers, beware of hyper- in such jungles as the Tarai until a specimenis le bole ! cated and surrounded; after a sharp encounter he is :\ There is, however, no questionabout “Mr. Stripes” usually soon brought down by gun-fire from the oc- being a very powerful and ferocious beast. Undoubt- !. cupants of the howdahs. This method usually affords edly he is sufficiently powerful to drag an ox for a dis- little opportunity for the poor brute to show, his tance whenoccasion requires; but, asfor leaping prowessin self-defense. Elephants for such hunts across chasms with an ox in his jaws or hopping over must be thoroughly trained, otherwise they are liable six-foothedges with a cow, you will do well to re- to become frightened on facing a tiger, in which Case member the sapient speech of Josh Billings :- “It a stampede is likely to occur, when the howdahs with is better not to know so much, than to know so much their occupants aresure to be precipitated to the that isn’t so.” Even our school-books are filledwith ground andliable to attacked by the infuhated these absurd exaggerations that a modicum of common be animal. sense ought to repudiate. A secondmethod is by staking oa a bait in the The government of India offers rewards for the shape of a cow or ox and then constructing a killing of these animals so destructive to human life, an il perch within easy gun-range of the bait. This hun- yet there is little likelihood of their extinction, as the ter’s perch, called a muchm, must be higher than can Pudtfon 50. M.p 7 I’ Poaltlon 80. mpp 7 CALCUTTA ' 170 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 1'71

be reached by the spring of a tiger; on this the hun- ceptable to the Deity and likely to gain them favor ter secretes himself until the tiger, hearing or smell- both here and hereafter. Here we can behold one of ing the living bait,creeps stealthily forward within the most beautiful Jaina prayers instone. What range of the hunter on the muchan.When hunting higher incentive could a devotee have to build a beau- the tiger in this fashion 1 havebeen frequently told tiful and costlytemple, than to feel that merit and by experienced Indian hunters never to be accompa- acceptability are according to beauty and costliness? nied by a chikaree whois not a trained hunter, for We here see only one of a series of beautiful build- the curious reason that the sight of a tiger will so ings surrrounding this court, allfilled with a maze fill a nativewith terrorthat hecannot repress a of exquisite decoration. The fine &in entrance is nervous cough, which of course frightens away your to the left beyond that pool of water; the home (or

quarry. one of the homes) of the I wealthybuilder of this A third way of hunting the tiger is by stalking him templeis to the right. A second court with a floor in hisnative haunts; this naturally requires more of mosaics,shaded by rich canopies, under which courage andinvolves more risk on the part of the dances in honor of the Jaina saints are held and ac- hunter. The veteran, courageous hunter prefers to companied by instrumental music, is also to the right. take some risk, and to offer his antagonist some op- These courts are often crowded with worshippers and portunity of defense; he rather scorns the muchan the air ladenwith perfume and incense; fountains and the howdah as unsportsmanlike handicaps placed play, and the bloom of flowers of many colors adds uponhis enemy; he considers his powerfulmodern contrast to floors of marble and the snowy statuary. - rifle quite an equivalent of claws and teeth in a mortal In every direction you can see how pure white marble com,bat. Few hunters are killed on the muchan or has been chiseled into forms of beauty. That magnifi- in the howdah; but not a fewwhile tiger-stalking, cent structure beyond the court, the chief temple with whichrequires great courage, and quick, unfailing clustered tower, gleamswithin and without from a marksmanship-a wounded tiger means a hair-breadth mosaic of mirror-glass which gives the effect of chance for life. myriads of brilliants hung upon the walls. The highlypolished floors appear to be pools of limpid While we are in Calcutta we shouldimprove the water reflecting the mirrored columns and the deli- opportunity to see a typically splendid example of the cate tracery of marble lace-work-a labyrinth of native architecture. stalactites in a cavern studded with gems-or an arctic frolic of soft snow overspread with glittering jewels. pogition 51. Jatn Temple, the richest place of wor- This is a Jain templewhich we havecalled the ship ìn Calcutta richest and most beautiful place of worship in Cal- fiergusson, the preëminent judge of oriental archi- cutta. You havenot forgotten our visit to the tecture, says that, with the Jains, building a temple is famous Jain temples at Mt. Abu (Positions 11-12). a prayer in stone which they considerhighly ac- Podtloa 81. Imp 7 POßltlOU SW1e Map 1 172 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 173 ! When at that temple I told you something about this “ism.” According to the same authority before quoted, branch of the Hindu, or as some say, of the Buddhis- one of the main divisions is subdivided into two great j I :,, tic religion (pages 53-54). The term Jain is from classes, viz. :-“The Swetambaras or white-robed ;and the word .Tina, which means “spiritual conqueror..“ A the Digambaras, or air-clad, i. e., naked. Between prince named Vardhamana, born in 599 B. C., was the these the most bitter animosity prevails. Probably the founder of Jainism. The spiritualized saints are some- Digambaras originally went about naked or nearly so; times spoken of as Jinas and sometimes as Tirthan- now they simply divest themselves of their upper gar- karas or deified mortals. Wilkins says :- “These ment, a many colored one worn duringmeals; the they declare to be greater than even the chief deities Swetambaras, on the other hand, retain their clothes of theHindu pantheon. Statues of these beings in duringtheir meals. This, however,does not con- black and white are to be seen in their chief temples. stitute the only or main difference.between them. The They are al1 of the same style of feature, quietness and Swetambaras decorate their images with jewels; their calmness being their chief characteristic-nothing at opponents consider this action to be wrong. The gurus all approaching to the grotesque, as appears in many of the Swetambaras eat their food from vessels ; those of the ordinary Hindu objects of worship;and the of the Digambaras must take it from the hmds of Jain temples for beauty and cleanliness are in every their disciples. The Swetambaras assert that the angm way superior to those of theorthodox Hindu. . . . (Scriptures) were the work of the immediate disciples The following epithets applied to the Saints will show of the Tirthankaras; the Digambaras affirm a much the profound reverence that is paid to them. They laterorigin for them. The Swetambaras assertthat are called Jagatprabhus (Lords of the world), Kshina- women cannot obtain Nirvana (Heaven) ; the Digam- karma (Free from ceremonial acts),Sariagna (Om- baras deny this.” The above is chiefly interesting as niscient), Adiswara (Supreme Lord), Devadideva showing how Jainism like other “isms” the world over (God of Gods), Tirthankaras (Those who have passed runs to schismatic divisions and frivolous distinc- over the sea of life), and Jinas (Victors over all human tions; and the above is only one division of a long passions and infirmities) .” and tedious list of sects, cults and castes into which Some Jinas are mythical and some are believed to this branch of Buddhism or Hinduism is separated. have been historic personages. You can see about the You will realize then, to understand fully the Sig- beautiful court before us many statues; they repre- nificance of the scene before us, this beautiful temple sent these deified mortals, or the Tirthankaras. The with its daily crowd of worshippers, its decorations, early saints or mythical ones are believed to have its symbolism, would require more time and space than been huge (old myths like modern lies tend towards we are able to assign to it. exaggeration) ; the historic or real personages, normal in size. Thereare many divisions and subdivisions The Botanical Gardens of Calcutta are deservedly of the Jains. Schism is rife in Jainism as in every famous, and we should not omit to see one or two Parltbn mi. Map7 Porltlon Si. hp7 174 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 175

of their chief attractions. The grounds are beside the this magnificent out-door botanical garden. Travelers Hugli river a little below the city proper and on the from every land have stoodunder its umbrageous other side of the stream. crown. It is carefullyprotected and often a chosen nook for picnickers. These curious trees were known Position 5a. Among the aerial roots of a single ban- yan tree, one thousand feet in circumference, to Milton, who refers to them in the following coup- Calcutta let :- We are in the Botanical Garden at Calcutta, be- “Such as at thisday to Indian known, neath a tree of world-wide celebrity, the eccentric In Malabar or Deccan spreads her arms.” bnyantree; I say eccentric because trees seldom This widely known tree belongs lo the fig-family, throw off roots from their branches, as this one does. two species of which are found in many eastern coun- We are among the aerial roots, or among the multiple tries. The banyan is a wild Indian fig-tree (ficus In- trunks of thelargest and most celebrated banyan in dims). The other is thesacred fig-tree (ficus re- India and probably in the world. In our geographies, Zigiosus). Theyare bothsacred; the latter is some- in our school books, in books of traveland history, times called the peepul tree, and in Ceylon it is uni- in botanical works, we have seen pictures of the ban- versally known as the sacred bo-tree; the former was yan tree and I think in many cases of this identical regarded as ‘the home of godsand spirits. Bishop tree. In books theentire tree is usually shown;but Heber when he first witnessed its many dendra1 col- thetree is so wide-spreading that one mustretire umns and its ample shade exclaimed, “What a noble to a considerable distancein order to bringit all place of worship !” within the angle of anordinary photographic lens The multiplying habit of this old banyan tree is and that gives the effect of smallness. Instead, there- encouraged by the caretakers of thegarden; it has fore of showing you the entiretree at a distance, I given renown to both the garden and the city of Cal- have chosen to bring you in here among its wondera cutta. The slender rootlets which thrust down from fully multiplied trunks. the limbs towards the earth are often protected -from We can see at this moment but a small portion of the encroachments of wanton boys andthe possible the area covered by this tree; there are two hundred transgression of an omnivorous goat by being in- and thirty-two of these aerial roots, many of them as cased in pieces of bamboo until securely rooted in the large as ordinary trees. Its wide-spreading crown ground. It would seem advantageous, if other trees, overhead covers three acres. The main trunk is about especially fruit trees, would adoptthe habits of the fifty feet in circumference. It was sixty-eightyears banyan tree. old when visited by Sir J. D. Hooker in 1850, mak- The generic companion ’of the banyan &ee, the ing it at the present time about one hundred and four- peepul or bo-tree, is undoubtedly the most religiously teen years. It is now in vigorous growth and promises cherished tree inthe Orient. Fergusson says :-“If well for another century. 14 is the chief attraction of not the oldest it is certainly among the- most ancient Posltlon 92. Map 7 faltba82. hp7 176 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 177

of the idols that still command the adoration of man- scarcely imagine how the inhabitants tould live with- kind." This universal reverence for the peepul tree out the bamboo; it is their food, their shelter, their is owing to the alleged fact that under it Buddha ob- clothing; it is their staff of life. tained enlightenment at a place not far from Benares. Thegrowth of those stalks is peculiar; it multi- The King of Ceylon begged for a branch of that tree, plies by shoots springing up from the parent root in but it would have been sacrilege to cut a branch. By the earth, until, like other grasses and reeds, it forms some sort of a miracle a branch became severed from clumps; hencewe speak of clumps of bamboo. the tree; it was sent in a golden vase to the king who Branches do not appear until a shoot has reached its planted it in Anuradhapura, the ancient capital; and full height;this shows a wise provisim of nature, today it or its offshoots may be seen, oId and gnarled, because lateral branches ina close compact clump but still worshipped annually by thousands of devout such as you see here,would be destroyed, in an up- pilgrims. It is more than two thousand years since ward growth. Whenthe stalk has reached its full the tree was first taken to Ceylon and now about every height the branches spring out horizontally from the Buddhistic temple throughout the entire world you joints. The growth of the bamboo is very rapid, maysee this venerated and much-worshipped tree- sometimes exceeding three inches in a'single day. I idol. So, then wemay regard the banyan and the have seen in Ceylon a young giant bamboo seventy- peepul as the twin-saints of the arboreal world. five feet in height, the growth of only eighteen months. The sprout or shoot as it bursts from the earth has Another particularly interesting sight in these gar- the full thickness of the mature stalk, about four or dens wemay see from our next position. five inches. Such young shoots are edible, and may beseen in every oriental market. Theyform one Position 53. Grasses at whose feefmen are like ìn- eecfs-enormous bamboos in Botanical Gardens, of the vegetables on most tables, even European tables CaIcntía in the East. The bamboobelongs to the grass family and has We passed froma consideration of the sacred t been called the King of Grasses; yet from its structure banyan andthe sacred peepul trees to the bamboo. andits great size it may properly becalled a tree; Would it be more than just to complete the dendra1 and if classed according to its manifold utilitarian trinity by apotheosizing the beneficent utilities of the purposes it may easily be called the most useful tree bamboo? In speaking of the uses of the bamboo, it in the world. It ismost abundant in tropical coun- is possible to mention only some of the more general. tries, yet it issometimes found in many varieties as Books have been written on the bamboo-a whole vol- far north as latitude 35", as in Japan, where its ume has been written on some of its manifold uses artisticfeatures have beenrecognized and where it alone. Its grass-like leaves are fodder for cattle. flourishes in many species and in great abundance. Mackintoshes or rain-coats are also made from them. In many tropical and sub-tropical countries one can The wood contains much silica, and when burned the c PoslUoor 62-53. Map 7 Pornloa 63. M8p 7 CALCUTTA 179 ashes make an excellent polishing powder. Sections II to carryseveral tons. A few .large trunks placed of the flinty wood are used in producing fire by fric- onewithin another will providemasts ships tion. Every joint is a hollow cylinder which is easily for of madeinto water-vessels, milk pails, drinking cups, several hundred tons. When the tree grows old it secretes withig its culms pint, quartand gallon measures. During our war in the Philippines, I found most of the native soldiers a delightful beverage. If thisis allowed to remain carrying a canteen made from a joint of bamboo. within the hollow joints it becomes a concrete sub- Houses are madefrom bamboo. In transporting stancewith valuable medicinal properties, called fa- buscheer. This substance isfound to be wholly liquids of various kinds, instead of using barrels they silicious matter which resistsacids and is quite in- use a section of bamboo eight or ten feet long. In the destructible by fire, and with alkalies it forms a trans- Himalayasand other mountains, wateris conveyed fromsprings in cool elevations down to the valleys parent glass. It is recorded in Chinese history that in pipes made from bamboos. The inter-nodes or the seed of the bamboo has preserved the lives of joint-partitions are removed and each bamboo forms thousands. Hindus eat the seed mixed with honey and consider it a rare delicacy, equalquantities a durable pipe from twenty to thirty feet inlength; of each these are telescoped to form a continuous line of pipe being placed in a joint coated with clay and roasted which can be extended for miles. It is needless to over a fire. Nearlyall fishing articles are made of mention in detail the innumerable artisticand utili- it; it is used as a tile in roofing houses. The famous Wizard of electrical science, from whom Nature can tarian uses to which the bamboo is put in Japan. In Canton I secured some strong and artistic chairs hide scarcely any of her secrets, was the first to learn made from heavy bamboo without the use of a nail that the silicious fibre of the bamboo forms a durable or other metal, and at twenty-five cents apiece. Many carbon-the carbon now longfamiliar in connection kinds of musical instruments are made from this won- with the incandescent light. It has. been said, that in derful grass-farming implements, cooking utensils, China, this wonderful reed is of greater value than her road vehicles (except the wheels), suspension bridges, mines. Its uses are so numerous, so various, and so fences, scaffolding, beds,pillows, flagpoles, guns, beneficial that we can scarcely see how the country swords, canes, clubs, flower-pots. In theCourts of could exist without it. China it is the penal flagellator for all minor offenses It is said that this graceful and benevolent king of -the “birch” of the Celestial Empire. It isthe the grasses is a favorite of the fierce tiger whose yel- anchor chain of the Chinese junk; it is the rope of low coat simulates the corresponding color of the bamboo, amongthe clumps of which heis to the Tankia, i. e., the boat-dwellers or water popula- wont tion. Many kinds of boats are made of it; threeor seek a grateful shelter. four bamboos lashed together make 2 buoyant raft. Twenty-five cents worth cf bamboos will make a boat We have seen thus far in our journey many people of the middle and lower classes. It is indeed not often ---p Posltloa 53. Map 7 180 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CALCUTTA 181 that an ordinary traveler has any opportunity to meet personally a representative of the higher ranks of spacious grounds ornamented with flowers and shrub- society. It is by special privilege that younow have beryand pools, fountains and statuary. The castle is a chance to see at his own home a man of high rank a morecostly building, richly furnished. This,the and vast wealth. grandson told me, was kept solely for the use of the guests of His Highness, which, of course,embraced PoBìtioa 54. Eis Highness the Bfaharaah Ta- of the highest dignitaries of the Empire, imluding the gore in Durbar costume with jewels worth $aoo, - 000, in hìapalace, Calcntta Viceroy and governmentofficials. It was during a third visit to the palace, and ap- Wehave heard so much about the wealth of In- by pointment, that this stereograph of His Highness was dia and her wealthyprinces that I havedecided to made. He was dressed in his splendid Durbar cos- present you to the Maharajah of Tagore. He is the tume-that is, his state dress-with jewels and jeweled owner of vast estates, the possessor of magnificent sword and other precious badges of rank, and a tur- palaces in Calcutta, and, though a prince of high rank ban costly fabric with a tuft of finest plumes tipped and possessing enormous wealth, is as genial and un- of with rare gems. The front of his turban gleams with pretentious a gentleman a;s could be found in the a cluster of brilliants. His side-arms and the scab- humblestwalks of life. Through a letter from our bard his state sword are encrusted with sparkling consulin Calcutta, who was on intimate terms with of olddiamonds the first water. He has just arisen this prince, I was enabled to visit him on several oc- of from a richly carved state chair solid satinwood ; casions. He speaks English fluently, is well informed’ of the drapery about the room is of the finest material on current subjects, and entertains with exceeding and the product of the cunningest loom-craft. His generosity andcourtesy. After a pleasantconversa- necklace of several strands includesmany shells and tion which continued for some time, I said to him :- stones rare and precious. The robe is satin, edged with “Is it possible for your Highness to permit me to make gold and his sash is a miracle of needle-work. stereographs of your several palaces ?” He replied :- After my negatives were made I was a little curious “You are quite at liberty to photograph all my build- to know the value of this matchless costume with its ings-interiors and exteriors. My castle is across the decoration of gems; so, before taking leave His street,” pointing across the way to a magnificent stone of Highness, I ventured a query as to the value of the castledisplaying all the architectural features of ba- gems onhis person. He smiledbenignantly and re- ronial times. Continuing, he said :- “I haveone plied :-“It isvery difficult to tell, becausesome of palace a few miles out; my grandson will drive you them are almostpriceless heirlooms, but I think a in my carriage to that, and on your return he will ac- company you through the castle.” I accepted his moderate estimate would be four laks of rupees ($200,000) But more beautiful than the priceless generous offer and visited both palaces, which I found .” gems on his ‘person or the gorgeous palace in which very beautiful. The country mansion is situated in he 1 lived,was the unaffected,unassuming, unpre- Pd-nM. WP~ parltknbl. MepI 182 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BENARES 183 tentious naturalness of his bearing. I could not but feel that many apurse-proud westerner might profit be far amiss. Over six centuries before Christ, Sakya by the example of meek courtesy displayed by the Muni (Buddha), on his way from Gaya where he Maharajah of Tagore. received Nirvana,sojourned here to begin hiswork of enlightenment. It is inferredfrom this fact, that, We are next to visit the most sacred city in India- unless the city had then been a place of considerable Benares. Jerusalem is the sacred city of the Christians ; importance, it would not have been chosen by so great Mecca that of the Mohammedans; and Benares is the a prophet. The great Hindu authors wrote and sent holy city of theHindus. No traveler toIndia can out. their works from this place. afford to leave the country without visiting the shrines We are soon to land and walk amngst those tem- at Benares on the sacred Ganges. Consult the general ples, those holy bathing-places;but before we land, mapagain. Benares you find four hundred miles and while yet floating upon the sacred waters, let us northwest of Calcutta; thither we shall go for our next reflect, thatthree thousandyears agoand possibly study. A special, local map of Benares is alsopro- more, there were shrines along those banks, and many vided, where our successive positions are definitely worshippers here just as there are today. No doubt an located. You willfind Position 55, for example, earlyBenares city stood on that bank before us at marked on the Ganges river itself with diverging red the time of the Aryan invasion ;* and nq doubt Benares lines reaching to one of the banks. saw the rise of Brahmanism out of the ’early Vedic religion. Probably for over three thousand years, Position 55. A burning ghat on the Ganges at according to Max Müller, “the priest and philosopher Benares have sat side by side inBenares, and together have woven that closely elaborated web of faith and prac- We are on a small craft on the sacred Ganges, fac- tice in which the Hindu mind is today enmeshed. The ingthe left bank. The riveris flowing towards our vision of that earlypast is dim but enticing, and it right,Calcutta is about four hundred miles away in floats before the eye like the picturein some magic that direction (southeast)and Delhi asfar away at crystal. When Babylon was an upstart,contending the northwest. with lordly Nineveh, and the early Jewish heroes and Benareshere before us is one of the most sacred kings were welding the Israelitish tribes into a nation ; cities in the world. It is one of the most famous cities while the Phoenician barks were yet content to plough in Hindustan. Delhi was the Mohammedan capital; thesheltered. Mediterranean,not yet daring to at- Benares was and is theHindu capital. No historian temptthe white ,cliffs of Albion; while theGrecian seems to know when it was founded. account of On communities were slowly and jealously forming them- the multitudes of transient dwellers (pilgrims),it is selves into com’monwealths, and Athens washardly difficult to obtain an accurate census of the population more than a name, and Rome not yet thought of, here -probably four or five hundred thousand would not Position 68. Map 8 +See page 339 Ponltka Sb. Mmp S ... 184 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BENARES 185

in this quiet retreat by the calm flowing Ganges, and tainingabout three thousand devotees; there are a amid the teeming, fruitful plains, dwelt thoughtful hundred temples of theHindu gods, andabout ten seers and proudpriests, and hither, to worship at a thousand heretics (Hindus).”This waswritten by hundred shrines, toiled streams of wistful pilgrims.” Chinese travelers more thanthirteen hundred years Here then is a city as old as the cities of the ancient ago, andtheir descriptions harmonize perfectly with empires. That those banks before us were trodden by the conditions of the place today. thefeet of pilgrimsthree thousand years ago, is an Many centuries ago Buddhism lost its hold on In- overwhelmingthought. Gautama walked thereand dia, and now Benares is the religious capital of Hin- taught his doctrine of how to attain perfect peace of duism. Thosebeautiful structures we see now are mind, more than twenty-five hundred years ago. Since buildings belonging tothe city which lies imme- ’ that time countless millions have vïsited theshrines diately beyond them; they are temples, palaces and and bathing-places ; countless thousands have been shrines surmounted by domes, pinnacles and minarets, transformed to ashes at the burning-places whence we and othersextend along the bank for miles. Those can see the smoke issuing even at thisdistance and wide and long flights of stone steps extending down at thismoment; millions in treasure have been ex- to the river are broken by broad platforms where you pended in erecting those beautiful temples which line will see fine Hindu shrines, bathing houses, and , the bank of the river for many miles. The kind and preaching canopies. All these places are continually gentle teacher, the first defender of lower life, Buddha, in a state of great agitation with pilgrims from every took up his abode for a time a little north of the city part of the country,dressed in every style of garb; in a deer-park, just in the direction in which we are some are undressed, others listeningreverently to looking. The great Buddhist monarch Asoka ruled at some expounder of Hindu beliefs. Some are laving Patna 250 B. C. and exercised great influence at themselves with muddy but holy Ganges water; others Benares. The great Chinese devotees, Fa Hian, at the are watching some pious ascetic powdered with ashes; beginning of the fifth century, and Hiouen Thsang, in they are counting beads in the water; they are drying the seventh, came hereto Benares to obtain manu- them,selves with towels ; holy bulls mingle with the scripts of theBuddhist scriptures. The reports of pilgrims. Someare underhuge umbrellas; some in- these Chinese pilgrim adventurers say :-“Families of dulge in copious gulps of the holy waterunfiltered; great wealth whose houses are storedwith rare and to them, holy watercannot be impure, even when precious things are to be seen. The people are gentle dead bodies and living are immersed inthousands and polished and esteem most highly people given to e nearly side by side. study.Some cut off the hair;others reserve a tuft t You naturally wonder what has made Benares the upon the crown, go nakedand are destitute of any ! purification place forthe Hindu,and what was the kind of clothing. Some besmear their bodies with origin of its sacredness. Wilkins in Modern Hinduism ashes. Thereare thirty monasteries (Buddhist) con- gives the following legend asshowing the origin of Posltlon 55. hp8 Pasltlon IS. Map 8 BENARES 187

the sacredness of Benares :-“On one occasion, Brahma the command of Brahmashall be proclaimed forit and Siva quarrelled respecting their respective posi- to be forever enveloped in the coils of that inter- tions. As Brahma (Icclarccl that he was supreme, minable deity. Now, when the judgmenttakes place Siva cut off Brahma’s fifth head, and thus was guilty inthe city of Kasi, within a circumference of ten of the most heinous crime of injuringa Brahman, miles fromits center, it alone will remain firm. For Brahma being the progenitor of the Brahman. After it rests upon the heads of Ananta, but is fixed upon giving vent to his anger,Siva found himselfin a the three points of the trident of Shiv or Mahadeo, most miserable plight; the dissevered head of his rival to whose care it will be entrusted. All who now die adhered to his hand, asthe blood of a slaughtered within its walls are blessed, and those ,who are found guestadhered tothe hand of Macbeth. In orderto within it on that eventful day shall be blessed a thou- get free from the dreadful sign of his revengeful spirit, sand fold. Siva wandered fromshrine to shrine and practiced “Agesbefore the Mohammedan conquest of this the most arduous penances, but‘all was in vain till city by theSultan Mohammed, which happened in he reached the sacred city of Eenares. There he lost the seventh century; agesbefore it was made sub- his burden; and, following his example, his wor- servient to the Patans, which was a hundred centuries shippers weighed down with the burden of sin go earlier;ages beforeKasi was the second capital of fromshrine to shrine, butin Benares, of all places the Hindu Kingdom of Kanauj, which was the case find peace of conscience andthe assurance of salva- a hundred centuries before that; ages before history tion. As Sivafound relief inthis city that no other has any record, Shiv built this wonderful city of the place could give, it is but natural that hisfollowers’ purest gold, andall its temples of precious stones. should wish to dwell in the place that was so beneficial But, alas ! the iniquity of man contaminates and de- to their deity, and which they believe is especially dear stroys the beauty of everything divine. In consequence to him.” of the heinous sins of the people, the precious ma- A Hindupriest thus writesin reference to the terials of thissacred place weredeteriorated, and sanctity of this holy of holies :-((It is commonly eventually, changedinto stone, by permission of the thought by Christians, Mohamm.edans, and others who founder,Shiv. . . . Lately, the excesses and are unacquainted withthe truth, that this holy city wickedness of the inhabitants are againincreasing, of Kasi (Benares) rests upon a portion of the earth. and now the indignant Shiv is beginning to display his But such an opinion is altogether erroneous, as it has anger by turning the stone edifices into huts of mud been revealed to us by the gods, and as our senses and thatch .” are at times permitted to discover. The world itself, From the first appearance of man on the earth to since the days of its creation, has remained supported the present day is it not marvelous, what the human upon the thousand heads of theserpent Ananta mind, endowed with reason, is capable of believing? (eternity), and so it will continue to be upheld until Mental illumination seems to be as rare as thegem

Poattlon 68. Map 8

-- \

1 a 188 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BENARES l89 l in the lithic world;averageand human beings are burning of bodies. You have not forgotten that while not unlike the pebbleson the sea-shore, innumerable in Bombay we visited the Hindu burning-place (Posi- and of every color and kind, but rarely can be found tion 5). Here for a second time we are before a burn- a “gem- of purestray serene.” While Benares to ing scene, or rather we see thepreparation of the Hindu eyes is the most holyplace in the world, to pyres and the preparation of the bodies to be burned outsiders it is the wickedest city in India, thereon. Thereare here before us three bodies and Again calling your attention to the scene on the two pyres. Two bodies are inthe water by the shore, you see several boats about this ghat; these are river’s edge. The wood is much like what we call used for carrying passengers up and down the river cord-wood. You see the height of the pyres, and that for a panoramic view of the several miles of temple on one is already placed the body of a man; we know and ghat-lined bank of the river. Thisnear ghat is it is the body of a man because it is robed in white; usedchiefly as a boat landing-place; it isnow early we know that the corpse at the edge of the water is in the day and that is why you do not sec the river that of a woman because it is wrapped in red cloth. filled with bathers; but, at the ghat towards the right, There is hardly an hour in the day when the smoke you can see them coming down from beneath huge and fumes of the burning dead are not ascending from umbrellas to the river. Near the center of the bank this rude crematory. Sellers of wood do a prosperous you will notice athin cloud of smoke issuing from business. The process of burning is somewhat lengthy, near the edge of the water; it arises from the burning- but not unworthy of being related. ghat, or the place where bodies are burned. There are The corpse is brought here to the ghat tied upon several people standing on that elevated platform peer- a rude bier of bamboo and carried on the shoulders of ing down at the burning bodies. Many of those beau- relatives, who as they move throughthe city streets tiful shrine temples, having been erected on silt-foun- keep up a chant of, Rama, nama satya hai (The name dations, have been undermined by the river and now of Ram is true).The corpse is swathed in white lie half submerged in water. cloth if a male, in a red one if a female, and is at the ghat deposited with its feet in the Holy Ganges For our next position the boat on which wenow while the pyre is being prepared. Wood for the pyre stand moves near the burning ghat, so that we may may be purchased on the spot, though in some cases witness the gruesome process of Hindu incineration. relatives bring it with them; expensive scented wood Notice the location as marked on our local map. is sometimes used by the wealthy. Position 56. “Who dies in the waters of the Ganges After the pyre has been constructed and the corpse obtains Heaven.” Bathìng and burning Hindu laid thereon, canes the ceremony of applying the fire. dead-Benares A very curiousfeature of thisrite is the position We have brought our boat near to the burning ghat held by theghat attendant. This man is always a where we can closely inspect the preparation for the Dom, i. e., of a caste so degradedthat should he, Q.dtlan Map 8 Positlone 55-86. Map 8 86. BENARES 191 190 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

W even inadvertently, touch a dead body it would be con- the bank of the riverin their last agonies. To die taminated beyond remedy. And yet by an ancient rule even near the sacred river is Heaven assured. On all the necessary materialsfor cremation must be ob- roads leading towards the sacred territory of Benares tained from one of this despised caste. Sherring iu may be seen the dyingborne on litters, and many his Castes and Tribes of Benares says :--“The Dom are overtaken by the last summons before these holy supplies five logs of woodwhich he lays in order precincts are reached. on the ground, the rest of the wood being given by the family of the deceased. Whenthe pile isready A little towards the left at the top of this bank is for burning, a handful of lighted straw is brought a suttee pillar which we shall visit later (Position 58). Towards our right is a famous tank called Manikar- by the Dom and is takenfrom him and applied by ’ one of the chief members of the family to the wood. nika-Kund;thither we shall go for our next view. The Dom is the only person who can furnish the light The map shows exactly where we are to stand. for the purpose, and if from any circumstance thr: service of one cannot be obtained, great delay and inconvenience are apt to arise. The Dom exacts a fee for three things, the five logs, the bunch of straw, and the light.” When all is ready, the son of the de- I have told you the legend which shows the origin ceased, if he be so fortunate as to possess one, conles of the extraordinary sacredness of Benares, and that forward and receives in his right hand a torch. After the holy city with its precincts is not of the earth, but walking with this seven times round the pyre, taking separate and distinct-a bit of celestial territory. Now care to keep his left hand away from the pile, he sets we are looking into Manikarnika-Kund, the most holy place or spotin al1 the holy area. Thistank is the fire to it at the head and the foot and soon all is in a sanctum sanctorum of the most sacredcity in the Hindu world.” Everypilgrim who visits Benares, after he has received absolution and purification in the sacred river and performed all the routine ceremonies at the ghats and temples, starts from this tank to walk around the entire celestial ground,a distance of fifty miles. He You will not forget that the bathing ghats of the completes the circuit here at Manikarnika-Kund by a living are in loathsome proximity to this ghat; in- douche in this reeking pool which one author has deed, the waters of bothplaces are constantly inter- called the“paradise of microbes.” Here is the Rev. Arthur Parker’s graphic descrip- mingling. Many dying people arebrought here to *See IndiAa by Hurst, and M&sn Hindkm by Wilkinson. -a SeFRev. Arthur Parker’s Hand-book of Benales. ?&Il ?&Il 87. 8 Porltlaa 56. Map 8 1 192 INDIA THROUGH TIIE STEREOSCOPE BENARES 193 tion of this nasty ho!y tank :-“Within a railed en- closure is asquare tank, having on each of its sides and marked the spot for ever by the sign of his own a staircase of stone leading down to a pool of stagnant foot-prints. water, fetid with the rotting flowers which have been Now letthe visitor look around him, forhe is at castinto it asofferings. In this the visitor sees the the very heart of Hinduism. Above him towers a lofty most sacredspot in Benares. To bathe in that filthy temple, the gift of the Raja of Ahmety, and below, water nleans to the Hindu to obtain deliverance from along the edge of the sacred stream, are several others, all penalties, even for sins of the deepest dye. The liar, massive and richly carved, but all slowly sinking into thethief, the murderer and the adulterer may here the bed of the mighty river.Around him surges a wash and be clean, ina spot which the foot of the motley throng of pilgrims and devotees of all kinds; purest Christian man or woman would instantly defile. here is the naked yogi with matted locks and smeared “There are many legends connected with this well, from head to foot with sacred ashes, and side by side the most common being this :-‘Once upon a time the with him the gentle Sanyasi, as clean as the other is good lord Vishnu, in a time of great drought, dug out foul, carrying in one hand his gourd of sacred water with his discus, not without great pain and labor, this and in the other his bamboo wand which never touches well to succor his faithful worshippers. His sacred the ground. Nuzzling about among the crowd, forag- sweat filled it to thebrim with a pearly flood, and when ingfor sacred flowers and leaves and dropped rice, Mahadeoarrived and looked down intoits limpid are sacred bulls ; at your ear comes the familiar whine, depths, he saw reflected as in a mirror his own charm- ‘Bakhshish give here, sir; one rupee, eight anna, four ing visage. Enraptured with the sight and full of the anna. I am a priest, sir, I make prayer for you,’ and praises O€ Vishnu, he asked him to name for himself turning one sees what is surelynot the least sad of some great reward, to which thedutiful Vishnu re- all melancholy sightshere, a fine youngBrahman, plied that he could wish for nothing better than that with fair skin and intelligent features, over which the he might always have the company of Mahadeo him- shadow of greedand cunning is only just creeping, self. Now great indeed was thedelight of the god, taking up ‘thc mixed rôle of beggar, tout, bully and and in the excess of his emotion his body trembled generalfraud, probably in succession to one of the with rapture, when 10 ! from one of his ears right into fat sons of the -Ganges, squatted down there by the the midst of the well there fell a jeweled pendent, water side. makingit sacred for all time. Andthis iswhy, to “Small comfort is it to know that his few words of this day, it is called Manikarnika, the well of the ear- broken English were learned in a Government Col- ring. Between the well and the ghat on a raised plat- lege, or perchance in a Mission School. But saddest form is a small marble representation of two minute Qf all is it to see the little bands of pilgrims, whose feet. This is the CIzerana Pndztka, the monument of dress proves them to be strangers to Benares, who are Vishnu’s foot, for here, it is said, the god alighted hurried from shrine to shrine by hired touts. Slowly they descend the steps of the sacred well and seat Position 57. Map 8 Porltloa B7- Mmp 8 Ø

BENARES 195 1 194 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

themselves in a row. Down by them squats a Brahman, (often spelled sati). We havealready referred to twice-born of heaven. His unctuous voice rolls out Thuggee or Thuggism and how it was sometimes done a few magic mantras which thepoor creatures with by means of poison. In remote times poison was a bowed heads tryto repeat; bits of sacred grass are common means of taking life in India. It is said that twisted round the fingers and stuck into the girdle; one suttee had its origin in a law compelling widows to by one thesacred ingredients, flowers,rice, etc., are burn themselves on the bodies of their husbands, be- added to the pile in their hands, and then a final dab causein so many cases the death of husbands was on the shoulder of each, and out comes the fat hand, owing to poison administered bywives. Husbands andthe little eyes glitter, as from crevices of the were often poisoned for the most trivial offense, real waistband and the corner of the cloth are brought out or imagined; and as a corrective for these feminine one by one the hoarded coins. Then a step or two, and misdemeanors the penal law of suttee was enforced. the little company ducks down into the noisome flood In later centuries it became a voluntary sacrifice in and all is over; the crown of piety is won.” proof of fidelity and devotion, and, when a faint- The water of this pool is never renewed except as hearted wife had not the courage or loyalty thus to replenished by the rains of heaven; evaporation slowly accompany herlord tothe other world, the neigh- removes the water and leaves the filth. All the pearly bors forthwith shaved her head as a mark of degrada- drops of Vishnu’s sweat were evaporated three thou- tion, and compelled her to do all sorts of drudgery sand years ago. It is now a turbid, malodorous cess- forher husband’s family. pool. While you look at thisspot tryto think of the terribleagonies of the numberless uxorial sacrifices, ‘Another shrine spot is hard by and we will hasten theliving cremations that have taken place. to leave this holy pool to stand by the old sacrificial I will give a brief account of some attendant cir- place of Hindu widows. (Seethe map.) cumstances of a suttee as witnessed by Europeans since the British occupation.* “Having bathed, the Position 58. Suttee pillar at a Benares burning ghat where Hindu widows died on their husbands’ widow, dressed in her clean garments, and holding funeral pyres. some cusa grass, sips waterfrom the palm of her We are still on the same (north) bank of the river, hand.Bearing cusa and tila on her head, she looks only a short distance from the tank of Vishnu and the toward the east or north, while the Brahman utters burningghat. Directly before us here you see a the mystic word Om. Bowing to Narayana, she next &all, low pillar which marks the place where Hindu declares :-‘On thismonth, on thisday, I (naming wives formerly burned themselves on thefuneral herself and her family), that I may meet Arundhati pyres of their husbands. It was once a custom in (the wife of Vasistha, theguru of the gods), and Indiafor Hindu widows to commit suicide in this reside in Swarga, that the years ofmy stay may be f‘ manner. The act of self-immolation was called szlttee &Jebmk’a Ihaya Pwitbn 88. -8 Poßltbnr 67-86. Map 8 196 IXDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BENARES 197

numerous as the hairs of thc human body; that I may felicity with him, greatestand most admired, shall enjoy with paternal and maternal progenitors, and the enjoythe delights of heaven while fourteen Indras ancestry of my husband’s father; that: lauded by the reign. Apsarases (Cclcstial nymphs), I may be happy with “Though a husband had killed a Brahman, broken my lord through thc reign of fourteen Indras (Kings theties of gratitude,or murdered a friend,she ex- of thcgods) ; that cxpiation be made for my hus- piates the crime.” bad‘s offcnces, whcther he has killed aBrahman, A common exclamation as a victim enters the fire brolccn the ties of gratitude or nmrdered his friend- is :-Ram, Ram, Sat; (God, God, I am chaste). tlms I ascend to my husband’s burning pile. I call on When the mantras have been concluded, and some you, ye guardians of the eight regions of the world- onenear of kinhas applied thetorch, friends who Sun and Moon, Air,Fire, Ether, Earth andWater, have accompanied the suttee-widow fromher home my own soul, Yama (the god of thespirit world), gatheraround the blazing pile andthrow upon it Day, Night and Twilight, and thou-conscience, bear butterand wood; this, of course,is to increase the witness I follow my husband’s corpse on thefuneral flame and shorten thetime of agony. Cases are re- pile.’ ” Youwill remember that the guru is the wise corded in which the self-made victim, unable to sus- spokesman of the gods, and his wife’s name is Arund- tainthe terriblesuffering, sprang from thepyre hati. wrapped in flame, while the bystanders with whips and It is the duty of a son or near relative to light thc clubs rained blows upon her to compel herto re- funeral torch after the widow-martyr has repeated her enterthe fire; if she escapes and recovers from her mantras(said her prayers) ; andthe mantras arc charred condition, she becomes an outcast. The based on the following principles of Hindufaith :- friendsand witnesses of thisbrutal practise will re- “The wife who commits herself to the flames with her ceive, as they believe, great reward for the part taken husband’s corpse, shall equal Arundhati,and reside in the sacrifice. in Swarga. While at first sutteewas practised as a penal in- “Accompanying her,she shall reside so long in fliction, latterly it was, as already stated, a voluntary Swarga as are the 35,000,000 of hairs on the human act; yetwhen a widow failed to carry out her de- body. claredpurpose of self-immolation she was subjected “As the snake-catcher forcibly drags theserpent tothe most debasingausterities. Sometimes, suttee from hisearth, so bearingher husband [from hell] subjects were drugged almost to unconsciousness be- with him shall she enjoy heavenly bliss. fore the crucial moment; in other cases great quanti- “Dying with herhusband, she sanctifies her ma- ties of wood, lashed down, were placed over the two ternaland paternal ancestors and the ancestors of bodies. him to whom1 she gave her virginity. Col. Sleeman in his Rambles and Recollections re- “Such a wife, adoring her husband, in celestial ? Posltloa 68. Map 8 porttkn SS. M.P a .. 198 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BENARES 199

lates several cases of suttee which he witnessed, one “A fewinstruments of music had been provided, of which follows :- and they played as usual as she approached the fire; “Having satisfied myself that it would be unavail- not, as is commonly supposed, in order to drown ing to attempt to save her life, I sent for all the prin- screams, but to prevent the last words of the victim cipal members of her family, and consented that she from being heard, as these are supposed to be pro- should be suffered to burn herself if they would enter phetic, and might become sources of pain or strife to intoengagements that no other member of their the living.” family should ever do the same. This they all agreed The Hindu code says a woman who burns herself to, and, the papershaving been drawnout in due shall remain in Paradise with her husband three hun- form about midday, I sent down notice to the old lady, dredand fifty million years. Well, that’s not a bad who seemed extremely pleased and thankful. The cere- term of heaven if the husband be the right sort of a monies of bathingwere gone throughbefore three, man with whom to live for so great a period, but I while the wood andthe other combustible materials can’t see what the husbandhas done that all that for a strong fire were collected, and put into the pit. prolonged period of bliss should accrue to him. I After bathing she called for a fan (betel-leaf)and suppose, however, theHindu would say-as woman ate it; then rose up, and, with one arm on the shpulder lost Paradise, it is only fair dealing that she should of her eldest son, and the other on that of her nephew, regain it, even by suttee. approached the fire. I had sentries placed all around This small pillar now tells us of the many terrible and no other person was allowed to approach within sacrifices offered on this spot ; it is also one more re- fivepaces. minder of what England has done for India and the “As she rose up, fire was set to the pile, and it was world, in the abolishment of revolting customs. instantly in a blaze. The distance was aboutone A glance alongthis bank of the Ganges beyond hundred and fifty yards ; she came on with a calm and thesuttee memorial is not withoutinterest. The cheerful countenance, stopped once, and,casting her i wretched and semi-barbarous appearance of the half- ! eyes upward, said, ‘Why have they kept me five days nude devotees isrepellant; it is difficult to associate from thee, my husband ?’ On comingto the sen- intelligence with such aspects of human life, even if tries her supporters stopped, she walked once round . it were possible to associate intelligence with the re- thepit, paused a moment, and, whilst utteringa ligious beliefs and ceremonies to be witnessed here. prayer,threw some flowers intothe fire. She then You see women in scant robes, somein white and walked up deliberately and calmly to the brink, stepped some in red, and both sexes with bare and callous feet. into the center of the flames, sat down, and, leaning They all appear to be half-starved. Men and women , back inthe midst as if reposing upon a couch, was both chew betel-leaves andspit the red juice over consumed without uttering a shriek or betraying one everything. You see abarber plying his tradeand sign of agony, scatteringhirsute tufts to thefour winds. Cobblers POSitlOn 68. Map 8 -#Con 18. bp8 200 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BENARES 201

,E:.. do a flourishing business in the repair of pilgrim foot- There are none who do not commend the highest gear.Everything is chaotic; costly temples are slid- development of the physical man ; butthe ,term inginto the river. You see thatgreat rem.nant of athletics, as used today, is forced in its application to clustered columns half-way down the embankment ; I cover games which are corporeallyinjurious and i many others have reached the river and lie half sub- morally a seriousdetraction from a necessary ap- merged. plication to work and duty-amusement ratherthan I The scenes at Benares are impressivean as ethno- development. It is practically impossible for chil- l graphicaldepressingstudy,but as a social environ- dren in school or young men in college to have their ment. How can a scene be otherwise than depressing minds and hearts effectively set on games (athletics) ~ when it tells you of twohundred and fifty millions of and books atthe same time. The blindest ought to people in ignorance, in darkness, in poverty ? Benares see and know this. “All workand no play makes l has been a delusion-school for thousands of years, Jack a dull boy,” is an old platitude, but it istrue. where millions have been confirmed in error, in super- “All play and no work makesJack a mere toy,” is stition, in fanaticism and in false hopes and beliefs. thetrite counterpart-equally true.Both extremes If Manikarnika-Kund near-by, which was once filled are obviously wrong,and both extremesoften seek withthe pearly sweat-drops of Vishnu, were to re- I apology thesein stupid old proverbs. Many seem to ceive the rupees which have been extortedfrom the believe that Sandow’s physical culturebooks. and poor, ignorantpilgrims by the priests, it would be schools will make Sandows, that physical culture will filled, I venture to say, a hundred times. transform invalidsinto athletes. The highest, the best, the only real physical culture is an abundance of Now let us move ashort distance fromthe bath every kind of natural out-door recreation. ing and burning ghats, to the door of the home of a The catand the tiger never attend gymnasia. marvelous local athlete. Nature makes athletes ; the gymnasium helps a tittle. Position 59. Dabee Chowdray Palwan, at Benares, Nature makes poets, schools help a little sometimes, a vegetarian of forty-six years, lifting a 960- sometimes they do not. Nature makes orators; edu- pound weight cation retouches. Nature made Edisonand then We are in anage of athletics, orwhat Kipling plenty of experimental exercise (hardwork) com- would call anage of “flanneled fools.” Thereare pleted him. Nature madeCorbett, the most agile few who donot attach great importance to physical pugilist in the world; Nature made Sullivan, the most culture. There is often, however, avast difference invincible fighter of his day. Nature made Jeffreys, between athleticsports and games, and true physical the champion of the world. Practice improved them, culture. Mad andbrutal contests under many dif- but Nature made them. Gymnasia did little or nothing ferent names asoften mean physical destruction as for them. All the training in the world won’t make a phvsical development. cow as agile as a monkey. Training only makes the

Porltlon 59. Map 8 Posltlon 59. flap 8 202 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE BENARES 203

most of Nature’s endowment, no more. As proof of seated posturehe tilted the stone from its flat sur- these simple, axiomaticstatements I present to you face to its edge between his knees, then, lying pros- here this view of Mr. Dabee Chowdray Palwan, one trate, he brought it upwards towards his chest by ef- of Nature’s athletes. forts almostpainful to witness. With elbows thrust Palwan is nota large man-aboutfive feet seven down by his side, he wedged himself beneath it until and a half inches-and weighs, if I remember cor- it was well over his chest, thenthe final muscular rectly, alittle less than one hundredand seventy effort was made ;it was sublimity in muscular exertion pounds. He is a vegetarian; he never read a book on andhuman effort. As the muscles in the chestand physical ’culture; he was never within the walls of a arms became more and more rigid, his veins became gymnasium or any place for physical training. As a gorgedand stood out like whip-cords. As the half young man he had reason to believe that his muscles ton of stone moved slowly upward, inch by inch, a were naturally somewhat superior in certain qualities. tremor shook his whole frame; the compress bands on He foundhe excelled in liftingweights and had a his biceps looked as though about to snap; his eyes surprisingstrength, greatly surpassing that of most were closed in an agony of effort; and thus the great men. When he learned that he was becoming a won- stonewas sustained till the camera secured for you der amongst his neighbors, he gradually fell into the thisnegative-only a second-when, with tre-a business of giving exhibitions of his prodigious physi- mendous muscular effort, he tossed the half ton to the cal qualities. He adopted the primitive way of show- earth beyond his knees. This wonderfulfeat of ing his strength by lifting stones. He chiseled suitable strength was then repeated for a second negative. stones into symmetrical forms resembling hugecurl- You see no great rolling muscles about this human ing-stones with cross-pieces in thecenter as a hold. wonder; his muscles arenot large, but they are of You see several of different sizes aboutthe yard of steel, made so by natureand kept in best form by his bungalow. As he grew in yearsand strength he exercise. Training isgood because training is ex- ’ increased the size of his lifting-weights. You see him ercise, but it is toooften unnatural, mechanical and hereas he lies on his back, with muscles notlarge insufficient. It was not Palwan’s vegetarianism that but hardas steel, bearing on his uplifted arms nine made him strong,but it did not prevent him from hundred and sixty pomzds. The weight of thestone being strong.Young men should not be so far de- was well authenticated by English officials. Its luded as to beIieve that they will be Palwans if they weight was further established beyond doubt when live as Palwan did, or that they will be Sandows, if three of us made theattempt to move itfrom its they study and practise his theories of physical train- l place, which we failed to do. The stone was not ing. No manwas ever great by imitation, and sel- broughtto this elevated position by others and then dom much greaterthan his natural endowments. sustained for a moment on his uplifted arms. It was I paid Palwan, I think, a dollar for each of the broughtto this position by Palwan unaided. In a two lifts, a handsome fee for a poor Hindu. He lives

Podtion 69. Map 8 204 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CAWNPORE 205 and sleeps in an unventilated and unsanitary mud onlyprivate property. This gave great offense -to hut close by. IIe has no knowledge of physiology, the disinherited Nana Sahib. He determined re- hygiene or sanitary pl~ilosophy ; his dietary is chiefly on rice. There is littledoubt but what this same Pal- venge andinstigated theterrible uprising of 1857, known.in history as the “Indian Mutiny.” This, how- wan could toss over his head the best athlete of the best college team in America, and he is presented ever, should be regarded as only one of the imme- as an example of an athlete not made by athletics. diate and minor causes of the mutiny. NanaSahib lived a short distance up theriver If we trace the course of the Ganges river on our fromthe place shown in this view. The Indian generalmap of India, up-stream towardthe north- soldiers recognized in NanaSahib a legitimate suc- west, wefind the city of Cawnpore abouttwo hun- cessdr of theMahratta dynasty and it was not dif- dred miles above Benares. Our next position will ficult to arouse them againstthe English rule. The be taken on the river-bank of that “city of melan- onehundredth anniversary of the battle of Plassey choly fame.” was chosen for the mutiny. The English commander Position 60. Peaceful now, but stained with horrì- here at Cawnpore had only a small force, but he did ble memories-north at the Massacre Ghat on the not believe an attack would be made; so, instead of Ganges, Cawnpore placing theEnglish people-men, women .and chil- We are standing on the bank of the Ganges at a dren-in the magazine for safety,they were simply. spot rendered sacred by one of the cruelest and most taken within the lines of a small military guard where pathetic events in theannals of India.Let us recall theywere almost defenseless. The mutineers fired somewhat of thestory of the Mutiny. There was a I upon the helpless band, killing indiscriminately. After line of native kingswho long ruled in India called great numbers had been killed, and after unspeakable I theMahrattas.” England had many wars with these deprivation and suffering had been endured for many rulers. In thesouth they were finally overthrown at days by the survivors, a note came from Nana Sahib the memorable battle of Plassey, which gaveEng- to General Wheeler, the English commander, say- land sovereigntyover the greaterpart of India. ing :-“All those who are in no way connected with The lastking of the h‘lahrattas was BajiRao. An the acts of Lord Dalhousie, and who are willing to lay adopted son of this king became the inheritor of all the down their arms, shall receive asafe passage to estates, jewels and houses of Baji Rao; he had been Allahabad.” General Wheeler thought it a great offer ; trainedand regarded as a prince. WhenLord Dal- otherswere suspicious of the revengeful ex-prince, housie came to rule in India, he declared that after but General Wheeler prevailed. All thehalf-starved the death of Baji Rao, the adopted son-called Nana English people were brought to this place on the river- Sahib-should cease to be considered as of the line bank, by that old ruin, the remains of a bathing ghat. of kings, and should therefore be allowed to inherit Twenty-one boats were filled here at the edge of the

See Page 349. river, the people being only about one-half the num- bltl~n60. Map L P0rltS.m 60. Map t

. . . 206 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CAWNPORE 207

ber that had been attacked in the enclosure at Cawn- Ghat-by the English, Massacre Ghat. The memories pore, a few miles fromthis place. Theother half of this spot will remain forever.Most natives prob- had been killed and thrown into a deep well near the ably would gladly forget the bloody and treacherous place where they weremurdered. When the greater record of Cawnpore; and it should not be forgotten number had been placed in the boats-a few being that some nativetroops did remain faithful to the still on the shore because there were not boats to ac- English. commodate all-Sepoy mutineers who had beense- Near every city in India, every water-front is lined creted near-by opened fire on the laden boats. with dhobies or washermen. You see them now along The boats were smashed, and those of the English the Ganges at this point. That bridge over the river not killed by bullets were knocked intothe Ganges. is one mile fromwhere we stand; the city is to the Many struggled back to the shore, but were killed or left(northwest), about two miles distant.Soon we captured on reaching the bank. Of all the great number, shall pass over yonder bridge on our way to Lucknow only four escaped to tell of the treacherous and merci- less butchery. Of the twenty-one boats, one went We must witness one more hallowed spotin old ashore a mile below; the occupants still alive were cap- Cawnpore; therefore we go on to the outskirts of the tured, carried to Nana Sahib’s headquarters at Cawn- city to visit what no traveler in India fails to visit, the pore and placed in two small rooms where they suffered Memorial Well. for two weeks unmentionable indignities. When Wave- Position 61. Memorial at Cawnpore, to Brifish lock’s forceswere approaching, the victims were re- women and children massacred by Nana Sahib, moved to another house, and there, only a day beforc I857 E4avelock’s arrival, the fiendish NanaSahib orderctl If I were asked to name the saddest and most Mohammedan butchers to enter the space occupied by pathetic spot in the entire world, I would say that over the poor English prisoners and finish the bloody work. which thepure and broodingangel stands. Cawn- Theywere armed with knives andswords and were port, as I have said, is called the “City of melancholy engagedfrom five o’clock in themorning till half- fame.” The story of Cawnporecan never die. The past ten, before a11 were hewn down. name of Nana Sahib will forever remain a synonym When Havelock reached the place, he found only of perfidy, cruelty, cowardice, and bestial licentious- silent rooms filled with mutilated bodies. Not one was ness-a worsethan Moloch, the arch-fiend of the spared. Four days were spent in burying the dead. oriental world. I: presume you have read the story The EngIish revenge was terrible-General Mill ar- of the Indian Mutiny; if you have not seize upon an ranged his cannon in a long line, tied a guilty Sepoy opportunity. Our last view suggested an incident con- to the muzzle of each cannon and blew them to frag- nected therewith-the murder of innocent men, women ments. and children at the Massacre Ghat. You remember This ghat is called by the natives the Sati Chaura how those people were several weeks penned within the Porltlon 60. Map 1 MOW6041. Mmp 1

, ‘I 208 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CAWNPORE-LUCKNOW 209

military lines, and while there how many were killed, Anglo-Saxon silently lifts his hat as he passes beneath and how many died from sickness and were consigned the arch of that sacred memorial? to a deep well for burial. Four men escaped from the The memorial is not confined to this magnificent slaughter at theMassacre Ghat, andtwo hundred sculptured screen; a park of thirty acres surrounds women were brought back and placed in a house near this well. The entirepark is beautified by trees, the palace occupied by Nana Sahib. These, as already shrubbery, flowers and walks, and vistas through the stated in the last story, were hacked to pieces by pro- luxuriantfoliage reveal thesparkling Ganges in the fessional butchers from the city, hired to do the bloody distance. A Briton loves a hero and does not forget work by minions of Nana Sahib, The two hundred theheroic dead. The CawnporeMassacre has been bodies of butchered women and children were thrown called the blackest crime in human history, and if you intoa well. want to fire an AngleIndian heart you have only to The wellis beneath that stone on which the angel say “Cawnpore.” Remember, not all who were stands. The beautifulangcl is by thefamous Italian slaughtered by thebutcher prince were English; the sculptor,Marochettc. Her arm are folded, denoting bones of American women are mingled with those of resignation ; sllc holds in her hands the martyrs’ palm. their English sisters, fifty feet below that curbstone Over the entrance, but not seen from our position, is on which the weeping angel stands. inscribed :-“These are they who have come out of great tribulation.” And around the well-curb you can Another city of Mutiny fame is distant only a two almost read from where we stand :-“Sacred to the hours’ railway ride, andthere we shall next go to perpetual memory of the great company of Christian look upon some other places associated with the sad people, chiefly women and children, who near this spot and ever memorable Sepoy Rebellion which is another were cruelly massacred by the followers of the rebel name forthe same event in Indian history. I refer Nana, and cast, the living with the dead, into the well to Lucknow; but before entering the city we will halt below, on the 15th day of July, 1857.” at the river Goomti to witness a washing scene. Is it any wonder that the eyes of every visitor grow Position 6s. Industrious dhobìes (washemen) .at dim as he standsbefore this holy shrine, and recalls work in the river at tucknow the long weeks of mortal fear, of agony, ancl of hun- We are looking up the Goomti (a branch of the ger,thirst and sickness;the bravery of those noble Ganges),northwest to theiron bridge. The city of women who gavetheir garments to servethe gun- Lucknow is a little to our left and extends for several nersand their undergarments as bandages for the miles up and down the river-bank. The famous wounded : the announcement that all must die ; the Residency is only a half mile to our left. last farewells after long suffering; the last fond clasp- I have casually mentioned dhobies before, but here ing of children as the black visaged butchers entered near Lucknow the riveris lined with them. Dhobies with gkaming knives. Is itany wonder thatthe are professional washermen-they infestevery pool,

Porltloa 61. Map 1 Posltioa 62. M.p 1 .’” 210 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE LUCKNOW 211 pond, tank, brook and river,and lake in India. We method is about as destructive to clothes as the com- have seen them before during our itinerary; we saw moner method of swishing them on a rock. When the them at Cawnpore onthe Ganges. Hereagain the sand of the river-bank is sufficiently clean, washed riveris alive with them. clothes are spread outthereon to bleach anddry, The dhobie belongs to a low caste and has had be- otherwise cloths are spreadover the ground to re- stowed upon him, in all probability, more curses than ceive the washed articles. One fellow has erected anyother specimen of the genus homo forthe rea- a clothes-line but that shows too much enterprise for son that hedestroys more clothing per annum than a native; the innovation was surelyprompted by an all other sources of wearand tear combined. He English mistress. eitherpounds with a stick or heaves above his head A dhobie wash and a dhobie laundry always emit the garment he is washing, and brings it down with a distinctive odoror rather apair of them; one is a tremendous swash upon a stone or rock chosen for betel-leaf and the other the smoke of the dhobie shack. the purpose; he revolves the garment in his hands at Mr. Dhobie is cheaper than John Chinaman by about every blow and after the buttons are off one end he one hundred per cent; but his work is about one hun- changesto the other, until the article is thoroughly dred per cent inferior to John’s. There are no female de-buttoned ; of course, I am not at this moment think- dhobies. ing particularly of my own shirts which have often been shredded by this process, but of anygarment Lucknow is the capital of Oude, and covers an area that comes between the dhobie and his flinty wash- of thirty-sixsquare miles. It hasa population of board.Even a new garmentafter afirst deal with nearly threehundred thousand. We should not find a dhobie is expected to be buttonless. After a second here the beautifularchitecture seen innorthern and it willbe frayed at every vulnerable point, and very western India;but what Lucknow lacks inarchi- few fabrics have quality to withstand a third Wal- tecture,she makes up in history. We learned much loping upon the dhobie rocks. He never mesan of the tragedy of war (assassination) at Cawnpore ; ordinary washboard or wash-tub, and seldom soap; we shall learn more in this old capital on the Goomti. even if you furnish it, he sells it and pounds a little We heard from Havelock and his brave men at Cawn- longer on the same old stone in thesame old way. pore (page 206) ; we shall hearfrom them again at You will readily notice, however, that these dhobies Lucknow. So we will forsake the dhobies and wander are not using stones, this is exceptional and easily un- over to that memorable theatre of struggle, the Resi- derstood; the river here is passing through an alluvial dency. plain andthere is not a stone within miles. Instead of a stone, a slab of wood is braced up near the edge of the water; the articles to be washed are placed upon this and beaten with a stick or bundle of twigs, This

Posltlsn 62. Map 1 Parltka 62. 1 212 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

Position 63. Baillie Gate from the east-torn by their voices were choked with gratitude;they could mutineers’ guns during~aiege-wherethe rescaers only sob and weep their happiness. Although the ar- entered. &ucknow rival of Havelock brought increased security,their Weare now before the famous Baillie Gate, the full deliverance was not accomplished untilthe ar- main entrance to the historic Residency at Lucknow. rival of Sir Colin Campbell in November, two months The Baillie Guard was stationed only a fewyards after Havelock’s force had enteredthe Residency. to the right of this gate, and how bravely that guard Sir Colin Campbell with re-inforcements entered also fought and held their post the world knows. No one at thisgate. Very near where we standis a fine whocan recall thestory of thesiege of Lucknow obelisk erected by Lord Northbrook with an inscrip- can stand before this gate unmoved. It was here that tion in memory of native officers and Sepoys who the noble Havelock, followed by the kilted Highland- died near this spot nobly performing their duty. ers, entered after many hours’ of hand-to-hand fight- One of the saddest accidents of the deliverance oc- ingthrough the streets and lanes of Lucknow. The I cured at thisspot :-On the day the relieving force Residency building is only ahundred yards within entered, some faithful Sepoys were left guarding the andtowards the right, although the entire ground Baillie Gate, and the advancing 78th Highlanders, tak- may be called the Residency. The large building oc- ing them to be of the enemy, charged them, bayoneting cupied as a hospital is also to theright and imme- three, who offered no resistance. When explanations diately inside the entrance. (It may be necessary to followed andregrets were expressed one of them explain thatthe term Residency in English colonies waved his hand, crying :-“Kootch purwanni !” (Never means the official residence of a Governor or a Gov- mind-it is all for the good cause; welcome, friends !) ernment official appointed to oversee British interests and then fell and expired. in that place; but in the history of the siege of Luck- You remember what provoked Nana Sahib’s re- now theterm “Residency” includes theentire place vengefulspirit which resultedin the “blackest crime occupied by thedefenders.) When Havelock en- in human history” (See page 204). The general tered here, it is said that the sick and wounded crawled causes of the Indian Mutiny are several, but one of from their cots in the hospital near the gate, and in the immediateand most remarkable was giving a feeble way cheered and waved to their deliverers ; cartridges to the native troops which had been greased and when he enteredthe Residency themeeting of with tallow-the fat of the cow, which animal is therescuers andthe rescued cannot bedescribed- sacred to the Hindu. Think of this apparently trivial starved and emaciatctl ladies fell upon their knees be- offense, and the disastrous consequences. The loss of foretheir dust-stained and blood-stained deliverers ; life inthe defense of Lucknow alone was one hun- the invincible Highlanderscaught the children from dred and seventy officers and over twenty-two hundred their mothers’ arms, kissed they and passed them from men. This does not include thegreat loss of life at hand to hand; the weak and hungry tried to cheer, but the siege of Delhi and elsewhere. It is the old story Podtka Map 1 63. I Porltba 63. MqJ l ! 214 THE STEREOSCOPE INDIA THROUGH LUCKNOW 215 of howmuch of suffering and loss of life maybe the night-guns and the flashing of rifles from sur- charged to ignorance, or to religious fanaticism. rounding house-tops, and he was let down into a pit This old gateway, pitted and scarred with rifle and with others of lower rank just beyond the Residency cannon-shot, is a grim reminder of the terrible eighty- yonder. seven days, during which, besides the small garrison, In the basement of that building there were born men,women and children were imprisoned within. il duringthe siege eight babies who were always there- l You will notice the tall policeman who is approaching l after called “Siege babies.” thegate from the Residency, also the native guides Visitors often ascend the old tower for an outlook near us who hang about the gateway waiting for over theentire area. An extensive and well-kept some visitor from whom they may earn a few annas. cemetery lies just behind the Residency. To this day no native isallowed to enterthe sacred ground. It We now pass within the gate, and, advancing fifty is the most sacredly cherished spot in Lucknow. Two yards take our stand near a monument to the brave I thousand heroic men and women lie buried there. A commander of the Lucknow garrison. simple stone marks the grave of Sir Henry Lawrence; position 64. &ucknow’s memorìal to Sir Henry it bears a touching inscription by himself :- Jawrence and heroes whodied in ’57 Here lies Now we are within the grounds of the Residency, Henry Lawrence, facing northwest; there beyond the mound is the upper Who tried to do his duty. May the Lord have mercy on his soul I portion of the Residency building, now a historic old ’ Born 28th June, 1806. ruin. There was originally a fine basement in that Died 4th of July, 1857. building;into that refuge two hundred and forty There is on the mound to the left a beautiful cross women and three hundred and ten children were white marble. This is called the Lawrence Me- gathered. SirHenry Lawrence occupied a room on of morial, and on it is inscribed :- the first floor near the center of the building. It was while in that room that a shell from a siege gun of In memory of Major General Sir Henry Lawrence, the enemy plunged through the roof and exploded in K. B. C. his raom, a fragment of the shell tearing his thigh And the brave men who fell in defense of the Residency from his body, giving a mortal wound ; he died in two 1857. days. In his last moments he would frequently arouse Not the least interestingthings in this scene are himself and call out to the weeping friends about the personal representatives of the besiegers and him :-“Save the ladies, and never surrender!”At be- . sieged-the two men the lawn near us. The one such a time military honors could not be extended to on on theleft is a Eurasian, that is, a man who is a his remains ; a hurried prayer amidst the booming of European on one side andan Asiatic on the other. Positlonr 63-64. Map 1 Parnka 64. Map l 216 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE LUCKNOW-AGRA , 217

Duringthe siege, that man occupied theDr. Farer drunken sleep. Inthe morning, finding the place in house only a few hundred yards to the left of where ruins and deserted, he started for the Residency, and he sits now in friendly confab with a Hindu who was strange to say he passed the dangerous line unharmed. amongthe besiegers. Whetherthe Hindu took an At daybreak the men inside the Residency gate were active part, I do not know. Now they are both Resi- surprised to hear a man cryout in Irish brogue, dency guides ; both have served me in that capacity; “Arrah, thin, open your gates !” They let him in, and thelatter accompanied me tothe cemetery, but was nsked him why he had left the fort; with a look of not allowed to enter-(no native is allowed to enter bewilderment and simplicity he replied :-“Sure, an’ I thiscemetery). The former,a veteran of the siege, didn’t see ara man in the place.” was under no such ban. It is not yet fifty years since In tragic contrast to this amusing siege incident is the siege of Lucknow, and many are yet living who the story of the poor wife of an officer at Jansee,

underwentits horrors and its agonies. 1I anotherMutiny point, who, when the place was sur- It is not uncommon during such soul-trying crises roundedand there was little hope for escape, drew that incidents occur to excite human risibles even in from her husband a painful and reluctant promise that time of great distress; they occurred at Libby Prison he would not allow her to fall dive into the hands of and at Andersonville. At Lucknow, amidst-death, the brutal enemy. The promise was given, and, when suffering and funeral grief, an event occurred which the fiends broke in upon them, “she sprang to her hus- provoked irresistible laughter:-For a time a portion band‘s side, andwith a lastcaress exclaimed, ‘Now, of the original garrison were left to defend a power- Charlie, now-your promise !’ He kissed her, put the ful old fort called Muchee Bawan, one mile from the pistol to her head, and then turned and sold his life Residency. SirHenry decided thatmustit be clearly to the wretches about him.” abandoned and gave the following order by signal :- “Blow up the fort andcome to the Residency at twelve Withthis brief reference tothe memorable siege, o’clock tonight. Bring yourtreasure and guns, and we will resume our journeywestward for two hun- destroythe remainder.” This order was obeyed-the dred miles until we reach, on the banks of the Jumna, fuse to the mine under the fort was left long, so that a city which no travelerin India leaves unseen- all might be well clear when the explosion occurred. Agra. Our next position is to be a short distance out The shock was that of anearthquake and a black from the town. It is definitely located on our special cloud of smoke was all that was left of Muchee Bawan. map of Agra, near the right-hand margin. On calling the muster-roll on the following day, one Position 65. Camel drivers waiting at southeast man was missing, an Irish soldier; he was given up side of gateway to the famous 3’4 Mahal, Agra as lost. It proved that he had been left behind in a We are here looking northwest in the direction of state of intoxication. He was blown into the air, re- the city of Agra. The JumnaRiver is two hundred turnedto theearth unhurt, and fell againinto a yards to uur right. Pornition 64. Mapa I Posmon 6s. Map 9 ,Y

4

218 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE TAJ MAHAL 219

We have left the subject of war and blood-shed and stand below those marble domes. Fromthe opposite treachery for scenes of beauty. We have reached the side, one can overlook the beautiful gardens and the world-famed city of Agra. We stopped not for a Taj itself. Every dome and minaretglitters with a glimpse of the station or the old fortress, or the busy golden spire. It is about two hundred and fifty years streets. It is with us, as with other travelers, impos- since the Taj and this gateway were completed, and, sible to linger for common sights, when only three miles day by day and year by year during that time, tourists away isthe peerless Taj Mahal, which to the whole and travelers have been streaming through that gate- world is chiefly what Agra signifies. When people way to gaze upon the glory of the matchless structure say :-“Have you been to Agra ?” they mean, “Have within. you seen the Taj ?” So we are here to see the queen The camels and their drivers in this grand square architectural structure of the world. are in no way connected with the Taj or the surround- This structure before us is not the Taj-it is only ing buildings; they are halting for a few minutes on the gateway; and yet there are few palaces that can their way across the court on their homeward journey. vie with it in elegance of design, or in elaborate beauty of execution. This issurely a noble portal. The We now enter that fine portal on the south side, and ground on which we stand is a square, surrounded by pass through to the opposite or north door, from the highand powerful walls within which are several steps of which we shall behold the world-famous Taj shrinesin keeping with theentire statelyentourage. Mahal. (Seethe local map.) Thegreat square or court in which we stand was once a caravansary in which pilgrims with camels and Position 66. A marvel of beauty-looking north to elephant trains could find shelter beneath arched gal- the Taj Mahal-marble tomb of a Mogul Queen, Agra leries around the four high walls. This is the wonderful Taj Mahal, the most beautì- The architecture, like that of the Tajitself, is a com- ful building in the world. It is a tomb, and the most bination of theHindu and Mogul, andthe contrast and harmony of red sandstone with pure white marble magnificent everconstructed to preserveand honor the ashes of ahuman being. was erected by the are extremely effective. You can see some of the It Emperor Shah Jehan in honor of his beautiful and be- inner doors of the gate, in beautiful masonry; the in- loved queen, Moomtaij-i-Mahal. There is terior is as massive and palatial as the exterior. It is so much in- terestattached to this peerless structureand to the constructed of red sandstone alternating with marble. beautiful queen whom it commemorates, that some in- Notice the scroll-work in marble over the arched door- formation relating to the builder, the building and the ways. The serried lines of small domes are of marble, highly honored queen is necessary. It seems that a and around the main door-ways are inscriptions from good deal of error exists and many conflicting state- the Koran carved in marble. One may ascend by stone mentshave been made inreference thereto. have stairways tothat first balcony, or still higher,and I every reason to believe that the Rev. William Butler, Posltloo 66. Map 9 l

c-- 220 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE: THE TAJ MAHAL 221

DD., is afully informed and reliable authorityon Dr.Butler, does not include the enormousvalue of these points ancl I will therefore make use of his state- precious and semi-precious stones which werepre- ments :-h many llooks Moomtaij-i-Mahal is con- sented by tributaryrulers. The wonderfularchitect founded with Noor Jehan,* theconsort of Jehangir. and artist went to Goa in behalf of the emperor and is Noor Jehan and Jehangir were the hero and heroine believed to have been poisoned by the Portuguese on in Moore’s Lalla Rooklz. Shah Jehan was the son of account of jealousy because of his great influence at Jehangir by another wife. NoorJehan, Jehangir’s court. wife, had a brother Asuf Jan. Moomtaij-i-Mahal was Now that we have learned for whom and by whom thedaughter of Asuf Jan,and became thefavorite this matchless architectural blossom wascreated, we wife of Emperor Shah Jehan, and in her honor and will consider it in parts.Many eminent word-artists nlernory the Taj here was erected. Moomtaij-i-Mahal have vainly tried to describe thiswonderful struc- died in 1631, her aunt Noor Jehan, the wife of Jehan- ture, It cannot bedescribed-it can only be felt; a gir, died in 1646. Moolntaij-i-Mahal was married at rosebud, a bouquet, cannotbe described in words, twenty and died at twenty-nine years of age. At her neither can the Tai Mahal-and one may say of those death she made two requests :-one that the Emperor who try, as Pollock said of those who essayed Byron’s should not marryagain, the second that he should flights of poesy-“unearthly flutterings made.” You build for her a tomb that would perpetuate her name. can here see for yourself more than thecleverest word- The two requests were faithfully fulfilled. artist could tell you, and yet even this does not show This memorial tombwas commenced immediately. the miles of tracery in precious gems of every color. With what love, devotion and fidelity the last request Butlersays when Lady Sleeman was asked by her was carriedout, you have the testimony before you. husband what she thought of the Taj, she quickly re- The geniusrequired for thecreation of this superb plied :-“I cannot tell you what I think, for I know mausoleum was found in a Frenchman by the name of not how to criticize such abuilding; but 1 can tell Austin de Bordeaux.Shah Jehan knew therare you how I feel-I would die tomorrow to have such ability of the man to whom he gave the commission. another put over me !” TheEmperor called him Zurrier Dust--“the Jewel- The Jumnariver flows towards the right just be- handed.” The natives called him Gostan EsauNadir hind the platform wall of the Taj. The beautiful gar- al Asur, “theWonderful of theAge.” Hissalary den extends from the gate by which we stand to the was six thousand dollars a year; besides the Taj he Taj, eighthundred and eighty feet; the ddth is built the palace at Agra, also thatat Delhi. The nearly a thousand feet. The area occupied by the building of the Tai occupied twenty-twothousand garden is divided into sixteen equal spaces, and each men for twenty-two years, and cost in the money of space is set apart for plants or trees or flowers of a today sixty million dollars, and even this, according to kind. That marble-lined channel filled with limpid * Sometimes called Nur Mahd; see pages 87-88. water extends the full length of the plaza and sparkles

Porltlon 66. M8p 9 Porltka 66. Mmp 9 TAJ MAHAL 222 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE 223

withplayful fishes. A line of twenty-fourfountains buildings, mostly in redsandstone, give a mostef- alternatingwith water-plants occupies thecenter of fective contrast in color, counteracting the possibility the water-channel. At times when thewater supply of too much white fromthe predominance of white is not full, the fountains do not play-as at the pres- marble. The temple atthe left is so situatedas to ent moment. allow worshippers to face westward or towards Mecca. Midway between here and the Taj there is an ele- These three buildings, the Taj, the temple, and its vatedmarble tankforty feet square containing five counterpart on the oppositeside, occupy an entire front- fountainsand around its broad marble walls are age of ninehundred and sixty feet on the Jumna placed seats where visitors can view the uplifting vis- river;this frontage, extending back fromthe river ion of whitemarble by moonlight. Two rows of threehundred and thirty feet,constitutes a founda- slender cypress line the interval of space between the tion platform of solid sandstone for the several build- polished walks. The cypress is the memorial treein ings. Upon this great substructure of solid masonry, all orientalburial places, and these are small and a second platform of marbleeighteen feet high and slender, so chosen as notto obscure the view but to three hundred and thirteen feet square is placed. This maintain the symmetryand balance for which every is the true base of the Taj ; and even from this dis- feature in andabout the Taj is remarkable. Do not tance you can see how handsomely it is carved and set forget that the tank is midway and that the distance off in relief panels; the four sides are alike, and re- between it andthe Taj isthe same as the distance member that the base platform is eighteen feet high. between us andthe tank.Perspective is here de- You cansee a projectionin the middle of the front ceptiveand misleading as to theextent of thisap- side of the platform; on both sides of that projection, proach. This vast enclosureis surrounded by a high marble steps lead tothe top of the platform which and beautifully constructed wall, similar to that which is on a level with the main floor. The crypt, wherein encompasses thecaravansary square before the en- are contained thesarcophagi of Moomtaijand the trance gateway. Emperor, is below the mainstructure, within the At the left of the Taj, in line with it and on the base, andis reached by steps. The cenotaphs or samegeneral platform, there is a splendid mosque memorial caskets are on the main floor, even with the three stories high, of red sandstone with marble domes, top of the base where we can see ,a small door open in and on,the opposite sideanother building to corre- the center of the large portal. spond with the temple in material and in proportion, In the center of the great platform stands the grand though not in design. It is said that the latter struc- Mausoleum, one hundredand eighty-six feet square ture was erected justto give balance to theother with thirty-three feet cut off the comers to overcgme buildings. The galleriesand many beautiful apart- aharsh angularity. The height of the goldenspire ments in the balance-edifice wereformerly used for which culminates thegraceful dome is two hundred free occupancy by visitors. The two magnificent side and seventy-five feet;the dome is fifty-eight feet in .. Pwitfon 66. Mop 9 Ptwltba66, M0p 9 I ì THE TAJ MAHAL 225

diameter and eightyin height. Everypart of the We looked down upon the immense inclosure crowded wonderful structure is of purest white marble brought with trees mingled togetherin one indistinguishable from Jeypore two hundred miles distant. These grace- mass, gently surging and moaning in the night breeze. ful minarets at thefour corners of theterrace rise Above rose, apparently in the distance, a huge gray- one hundred ancl thirty-three feet skyward. They are blue mass, withoutshape or form, which rested like ascended by spiral stair-cases within and of the same a cloud on the gloonly sea of foliage. Soona faint snow-white marble. There is another marble tank or glimmer of lightappeared in the easternhorizon; rcservoir with several fountains between the Taj and as the darkness fled away before its gradually increas- the balance edifice on the right. There are within the ing power, the cloud changed first to a light, and then encompassing walls of the entire Paradisiac enclosure developed into shape and proportion, and the minarets eighty-four fountains tossing silvery spray along every vista of dark green foliage. I and the cupolas and dome defined themselves inclearer i lines upon the still dark sky beyond. Soon the first The mostwonderful of all arethe astonishing ì rosy tint of thedawn appeared, and, as if by magic, amount of work and the incredible number of precious I the whole assumed a roseate hue, which increased as stones used in the mosaic decorations. Dr. Butler says the sun made its appearance, and the Taj stood before a Persianmanuscript preserved in the Taj gives an 1 LIS, dazzlingly brilliantinpurest white, absolutely per- account of all thematerial used inits construction, fect in itsfairy proportions. It is impossible to de- recordingthat crystal came from China, jasperfrom scribe it. I had heard of perfection of outline and thePunjab, carnefian fromBagdad, turquoise from of graceful symmetry of proportion, but never realized Thibet,agate from Yemen, lapis-lazuli from Ceylon, the true meaning of the words until the morning when diamonds from Punah, rock-spar from Narbudda, lode- I watched the Taj burst into loveliness at the touch of l stonefrom Gwalior, amethyst and onyx fromPersia, the sun’s magic wand.” i chalcedony from Villiat, and sapphirefrom Lanka; Anotherpours forth his soul thus :-“AS for the and this is only a partial list. It is claimed thatthe structure in the center, the first bewildering glance‘ entire Koran is inlaid on the walls within and without. revealed what seemed to be a delicately sculptured l The Koran texts in Arabic letters are cut and inlaid mountain of pure whitealabaster, supporting on its e in black marble on the outsideand in precious stones :b crest a sparkling dome, light as a radiant bubble, which i, in theinterior. From where we stand,almost two might at any moment float away and vanish into air. i hundred yards away, we can only indistinctly see the After onerapturous look at its sublime proportions i decorative mosaic;that in precious stones we shall k thelast doubt was dispelled forever. The conquest E see at our next position. was complete; and I became a worshipper at the Taj, Listen to thewords of one who bas seen the Taj like all the millions who have gone before me.” from near the place we occupy :-“The moon had just hidden her face before the approaching break of day. Now if we stroll along those potished marble walks, Perltloa 66. Map 9 226 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE TAJ MAHAL 227

! watchinga thousand gold-fish dart and flash their octagonal screen about six feet high, with doors on the shining sides upto the sun, and ascend the marble sides. The open traceryin this white marble screen steps, we shall enter the most beautiful monument ever is wrought into beautiful flowers, such as lilies, irises erected to a human being.-“Love was itsauthor, andothers, and the borders of the screen are inlaid beauty its inspiration.” with precious stones, representing flowers executed Position 67. The most beautiful tomb in the world with such wonderful perfection that the forms wave -exquisitely carved and inlaid marbles at Taj as in nature, and the hues and shades of the stems, Mahal, Agra leaves, and flowers appearas real-almost--as the Now we are within the marvelous architectural beauties which they represent. poem where we gain a suggestion of infinite detail, of These ornamental designs are so carefully and ex- countless gems, of incomparable skill-where the labor quisitely executed that several of the flowers have of over twenty thousand skilled artisansfor twenty as many as eighty different stones entering into their years was expended. Andhere we see only a part composition, all polished uniform with the marble, into -a single direction; but this one angle of vision will which they are so delicately inserted that you can enable you toimagine the vast sweep of theentire hardly trace their joinings. They seem as though they spacearound you. You know theheight of thevast had grown there, instead of being separately prepared dome andthe area of this interiorwith thegreat and placed in their positions by the hand of the cun- domical halls at each corner angle, and yet in every ning workmen, who designed this imperishable and partthe spaces are inlaid and enleweled with gems magnificent memorial of human love.” of every hue; the rich flora of India and Ceylon has Of thetwo tombs only that of Moomtaij is seen been exhausted in finding floral designs to be imbedded from where we stand now; that of the Emperor is a in purest marble, every stem and leaf and blossom in few feet to the left, a little larger, in the same design, precious gems of appropriate color. butnot quite so elaborately decorated. We now “stand amid a scene of architectural glory “But the richest work of all is on the cenotaph of which has no equal on earth. Above us rises the lofty theEmpress within the screen. Uponher tomLac- dome, far up into the dim distance. The floor on which cording tothe universal Mohammedan usage-is a we tread is of polished marble and jasper, ornamented slate or tablet of marble, while on the Emperor’s is a with a wainscoting of sculptured marble tablets inlaid small box representing a pen-holder. These always with flowers formed of precious stones. Aroundare distinguish a man’s or a woman’s grave among these windows or screens of marble filagree, richly wrought people, the idea being that a woman’s heart is a tablet in variouspatterns, which admita faint and delicate on which lordly man can write whatever pleases him illumination-what ritualists would love to call a ‘dim, best. And thismark of feminine inferiority was not religious light’-into thegorgeous apartment. In the spared even the beloved occupant of the Taj Mahal. I center are two tombs, surrounded by a magnificent “But her tomb-how beautiful ! The snow-white Padtlon 67. Mnp 9 228 INDIA THROUGII THE STEREOSCOPE THE TAJ MAHAL 229

marble is inlaid with flowers so delicately formed that which dazzles with its elegance at the coup d’oeil will they look like embroidery on white satin, so exquisitely bear the scrutiny of the microscope; the sculpture of is the mosaic exccuted in carnelian, bloodstone, agate, the panels, thefret-work and mosaic of the screen, jasper, turquoise, lapis-lazuli and other precious stones. the elegance of the marble pavement, the perfect finish Thirty-fivedifferent specimens of carnelian are em- of every jot and iota, are as if the meanest architect ployed in forming a single leaf of a carnation; and in had been one of those potent genii who were of yore one flower not larger than a silver dollar as many as compelled to adorn the palaces of necromancers and twenty-three different stones can be counted. Yet kings.” these are but specimens of the beauties that are spread Many, as afore-mentioned, have tried and tried and in tlnparalleled profusion over this entire chambcr. In- struggled to adequately portray thetranscendent loveli- deed, Longasserts that he founda flower upon her ness of the world’s mostbeautiful structure, butin tomb to be composed of no less thanthree hundred vain; one mustsee; and even then, unless endowed different stones.” with rare capacity of mind and heart, you will not be On the end of the tomb next the entrance we find able to comprehendnor fully estimate nor feel the written in beautifulArabic characters, “And defend wondrousbeauty and excellence of this architectural from the tribe of unbelievers”-“unbelievers” means 11s miracle. Kaffirs and “Kaffirs” implies Christians, or all who do not believe in the Koran. Moomtaij’s own inscription, Our last view will be fromthe “balance” temple, also beautifully inlaid, is :-“Moomtaij-i-Mahal, Ranee looking up the river towards Agra. Consult the local Begum, died 1631.” map and notice the reach of the diverging lines. Thesewords from an unknown author help the imagination :-“View the Taj at a distance ! It is as Position 68. A lovely scene of Indian romance and if the spirit of some happy dream, dwelling dim but tragedy, northwest fro.% TM Mahal up the Jumna to Agra pure upon the horizon of your hope, and reigning in virginsupremacy over the visible circle of the earth Fromour new view-point on the building atthe and sky. Approach itnearer, andits grandeur ap- east side of the Taj we have a farewell glimpse of a pears unlessened, swelling in all itsfresh and fairy portion of the Taj overlooking the Jumna. We have harmony until you are at a loss for feelingsworthy chosen this position because, while itaffords only a of the presence. Approach still nearer, and that which, partial disclosure of a portion of the building near at as a whole, has proved so charming, is found to be hand,it also bringsinto view the river,and in the equally exquisite in the minutest detail. distance the fort and the railway bridge at Agra. The “Hereare no touches fordistant effect, Here is negativewas made duringthe dry season when the no need to place the beholder in a particular spot, to Jumnashrinks to amoderate stream. You will see casta partial light upon theperformance; the work sand bars everywhere exposed. During the monsoons the stream is often a great torrenta half-mile in width. Position 67. Map 9 Porltlon 68. M.p Q I INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 230 THE TAJ MAHAL 231 I We can see the walls of the fort at Aara on the bank Before leaving this scene of pathetic splendor, this of theriver. In that fort, ShahJeha< the builder of vista of tragedy and romance-and I might also say the Taj, was imprisoncc1 for seven years. this mockery of all human ambition-letme submit The palace atAgra is also a wonderful building. a valedictory in the heart-felt utterance of a Taj wor- We can descry thethree great white domes of the shipper :- JummaMusjid, built by ShahJehan in the name of “We feel, as our eyes wander around this hallowed his daughter Jehanara, who shared with him his seven space, that we have hitherto lavished our language years imprisonment inthe fort. Besides the incom- and admiration in vain. We dread to think of it with parable Taj-the fort, the palace within the fort, the feelings which workmanship less exquisite has Jwnma Musjid and other rare structures were erected awakened, and we dare not use, in its praise, language by the devoted worshipper of the beautiful Moomtaij. hackneyed in the service of every-day minds. We seek After all that the Emperor had done to glorify Agra for it a new train of associations, a fresh range of ideas, he was destined to spend seven ycars within those a graver and more sacred corner in the repository of walls of the fort, where he could have only tantalizing theheart. And yet, wherefore should this be, since glirnpses of these minaretsrising from thetomb of no terms applying to other works of beauty, excepting his beloved Moomtaij. the most general, can be appropriate here ? For those Within the walls of yonder fortress are many won- there be phrases established by usage, which their sev- derful architectural creations, besides those outside and eral classifications of style render intelligible to all not far- away. Maybe you have heard of the wonder- acquainted with similar works of art.But in the fultomb of I’timadu-daulah, erected by Shah Jehan Taj we fall upon a new and separate creation, which in honor of thefather of Nur Jehan. It is on the never can become a style, since it never can be imi- Jumna river not far fromthe fortress. Within the tated. It is like some brightand newly discovered fortress are the palace of Jehangir, the palace of Shah winged thing, all beauteous in a beauty peculiar to it- Jehan, the Diwan-i-Khas which is called a miracle of self, and referable tono class or order on the roll of Zo- beauty, the Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, and many ology, which the whole world flocks to gaze upon with other marvelous structures. solemn delight, none presuming to designate the lovely Calling yourattention once more back to this stranger, nor to conjecture a kinship for it withthe superlative of architectural creations, it is interesting winged things of the earth.” to know that it was the intention of Shah Jehan to erecta counterpart to the Taj on the opposite bank Six miles northwest of Agra,at Sikandarah, is of the Jumna as his own mausoleum, and to make a another memorial of the splendor of India’s Mogul magnificent bridge span the river, connecting his own rulers. We should notfail to see its witness to final resting place with that “ThePride the of of Akbar’s sovereigngreatness, forAkbar was one of Palace.” the most conspicuous and noble figures of his Porltloa 68. Map 9 Porltbn66. Map9 232 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIKANDARAH 238 time. Our sixty-ninth position will be near where his ner you see what has been a beautiful: minaret, but dust was laid away three hundred years ago. lacking the kiosk which originally crowned the top. The minarets in twostories are each sixtyfeet in Position 69. Marvelously inlaid gateway, nortl~west height,corresponding nearly withthe height of the to tomb of Akbar, Mogul Bmperor of the gix- main portion of this great Mogul propylon. The in- teenth century, Sikandarah teriorcontains many spacious halls finished in mas- We are now before the great gateway of the tomb sive m,asonry. of Akbar at Sikandarah. Akbar was one of the great You can imagine from the herds feeding near that and just Mogul rulers of India. He was born in 1542 these costly shrines are not guarded as antiquities so and died in 1605. He it was who first collected the rare would be in western countries. With all that various tribes into a single empire with himself at its England has done and is doing to preserve them, the head. He forbade theburning of widows; he en- monuments of the past centuries are so great and so couragedliterature and commerce, and was exceed- l numerous that reparationand preservation would ingly liberal in his religious views; it was even claimed almost exhaust the imperial treasury. by some that he was as much a Christian as a Moham- If we were to ascend to the platform at the top of medan. His spirit of toleration was what most dis- the gateway we should obtain a panorama of the sur- tinguished him fromother Mohammedan rulers. He rounding country; the village of Sikandarah is near- was indeed a leader in religious thought as well as in by; beyond the tomb at the north the Jumna sparkles all that pertained to commercial progress and the arts in the sunlight; towards the southeast the city of Agra, of peace. The mildness of his character, his strict im- the Taj, and the Fort could be seen, and directly be- partiality, magnanimity and personal courage, are men- low, surrounded by spacious grounds filled witha tioned in praise even by the Jesuits who visited India variety of shrubbery, stands the great memorial to the during his reign. The memory of his good qualities wise and good Akbar. and deeds still lives among the people of Hindustan. The tomb is beyond this magnificent gateway ancl If we pass throughthat centralarchway a broad we partially see itthrough the opening; butit will path would lead us to the front of the tomb where we be seen betterfrom our next position. As we did at are to take our next stand. We shall be facing west. Agra(Position 65), let us halt before this wonder- Position 70. Tomb of Akbar, M gul Emperor three fulportal. It seems even more elaborate, and richer hundred years ago-marble Pattice in upper stom thanthat before the Taj. Here again your eyeswill (wesf)-Sikandarah convince you of a great architecturaltriumph. This Now we are before what is called the tomb of gateway, as at Agra, is of the proportions of a great Akbar. It is somewhat away from our experience to palace. is built of red sandstone and covered with It call so great a structure a tomb. The real place of ornamentation inlaid in white marble. On every cor- sepulture is below, near the center of the first story; Porltkns 69-70. M.p 1 I

234 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SJKANDARAH 235

but the memorial cenotaph is on the fourth story. We chamber in the basement thirty-five feet square, exactly know howmany magnificent buildings werereared under the simulated tomb that adorns the summit of by Akbar.Here is what Fergusson, thehighest au- the mausoleum. . . . \ thority on Oriental architecture, says about this great . “Thetotal height of the building is a littlemore mausoleum :-“Perhaps the most characteristic of than one hundred feet to the top of the angle pavil- Akbar’s buildings is the tomb he commenced to erect ions; and a central dome thirty or forty feet higher, for himself at Secundra,near Agra, which is quite which is the proportion thatthe base gives, seems’ unlike any other tomb built in India either before or just what is wanted to make this tomb as beautiful in since, and of a design borrowed, as I believe, from outlineand in proportion as it is in detail. Had it a Hinduor more correctlya Bwddistmodel. It been so completed, it certainly would have ranked stands in an extensive garden, still kept up, approached next to the Taj among Indian mausdea.” by a noble gateway. In thecenter of this garden One is naturally curious to know why these Mogul on a raised platformstands the tomb itself, of a sovereigns constructedtheir tombs after the fashion pyramidal form. The lower story measures thirty feet of palaces or domiciles with rooms, halls, and various in height, picrccd by ten greatarches on each face, orders of apartments as though all were for occupancy and with a larger entrance adorned with a mosaic of by the living. The Mogul princes, like the Tartar marble in the center. On thisterrace stands another ruIers, made it a rule to build their own tombs-they far more ornate, measuring one hundred and eighty- practised the modern precept :-“If you want a thing six feet on each side, and fourteen feet nine inches in done well, do it yourself.” If they desired a magnifi- height. A thirdand fourth story of similar design, cent place of sepulture, theymust prepare it them- respectively fifteen feet and two inches andfourteen selves. They did not, like theEgyptians, believe in feet six inches high, stand on this, all these being of hidingtheir dust within dark, cold pyramids, or red sandstone. within the rocks of the mountains. Instead, they made Withinand above thelast is a white marble en- their sepulchres suitable for places of gayetyand closure one hundred and fifty-seven feet each way, or amusement while they lived. So long as the founder externally just half the length of the lowest terrace, lived his tomb was a rendezvous for friends, a festive its outer wall entirely composed of marble trellis-work retreat, and the central hall was called a buurruh durrie of the most beautiful patterns. Inside it is surrounded (festive place). At the death of the founder, his re- by a colonnade or cloister of the same material, in mains were interred beneath the central hall, and some- the center of which, on a raised platform, is the tomb- times his wife, or maybe his favorite wife was buried stone of the founder, a splendid piece of most beau- with him, or other members of the family in some part tiful arabesque tracery. This, however, is not the true of the mausoleum, When once an interment has been burial-place;the mortal remains of this greatking made, itforever ceases to be a place of mirthand repose undera far plainer tombstone in a vaulted festivity. The care of the tomb and gardens is then Podtlon 70. Map 1 Posttloa 70. Map 1 ,. 236 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SIKANDARAH 237

handed over to priests who maintain a meager exist- one hundredand thirty years, until carried away by ence from fees and the sale of fruits from the garden. ShahNadir of Pers&. As this costly atone is prob- ably more widely known than Akbar himself, it may We shall now ascend to the fourth story where we not be amiss to relate something of its history in this may look upon the cenotaph of Akbar. connection. A diamond called the Great Mogul, valued at four Position 71. Akbar’s tomb, Sìkandarah; the Xohi- noor was once set in the pillar beyond the kneel- and a half millions of dolIars, was Iong considered the ing man largest gem in the world. Crooke in his late work on Things I.rtdialz, says the history of that stone is still Here we are in the fourth story, and the cenotaph obscure, butfrom the investigation of Dr. Ball and of Akbar before us, resting on an elevated pedestal is Mr. Beveridge we may identify it with the Kohinoor. of tesselated marble. This uppermost story, one hun- In the history of this regal gem Crooke continues :- dred and fifty-seven feet on each side, is open to the “It has been suggestedthat, in conformity with the sky, being really a cloistered court with beautiful rnar- practice of changing meaningless names into some- ble screens set in the rear of every bay. All the screens thing more intelligible, the fact that the diamond was surrounding the four sides are different in design, and found at Kallur on theKistna suggested the name a graceful kiosk crowns every angle. The entire floor Kohinoor, or ‘Mountain of Light.’ Legend tells that area is covered with tesselated blocks of marble in the stone was-worn by one of the heroes of the Mahab- black-and-white. The sarcophagus is of clouded mar- harata; but the first historic notice of it is that Em- ble with the ever-present sy~nbolof the penholder on perorBaber states that his son, Humayun acquired the cover, and directly below this, in the dark vaulted it at Agra in 1526 from the family of Raja Bikrama- chamber of the basement, is the mortal dust of the jit.Previous to this it appears to have been inthe builder. On one side of this cenotaph is inscribed the hands of Sultan Ala-Ud-din, who acquired it from the motto of the sect he ordained, Allah Akbar (God is Raja of Malwa in 1304. In the revolution which led greatest)and on thesouth side Jalla Jalalalau (May to the flight of Hamayun from India he presented it his glory shine). to Shah Tahmasp of Persia, and, as Abu1 Fazl does Akbar was not only a great builder, and a lover of not mention it among the valuables of Akbar, it ap- fine architecture, he was a lover of beauty in every parentlyfound its way into the Deccan, whence it form; his love of precious gems made him the pos- came intothe treasury of Aurangzeb, as a present sessor the peerless diamond known as the Kohinoor. of from Mir Jurnla. . .’ . With thishe could not part even in death. You can “Some have supposed that while the gem was in see a marble pillar near the cenotaph; that was once Persia it WBS cut. or broken by cleavage, and that one covered with gold and within a casket receptacle in fragment is the Orloff diamond, now in the scepter of the upper part the Kohinoor was enshrined for over the Emperorof Russia, while anotherportion is a Posltlon II. Map l Porltloa 71. Map 1 GWALIOR 239 238 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE gem at present in Persia. At anyrate, the Kohinoor Indiana or a little less than that of Portugal, and con- was taken from the M0gt11 treasury in 1738 by Nadir tain a population of between three and four millions. Shah of Persia, from whom it passed in succession to There have been Indian records claiming that the city AhmadShah, and thence to ShahZaman and Shah was founded thirtycrnturies B. C., but thisstory is Shuja,from whom it was taken by force by Ranjit undoubtedly only traditional,and more trustworthyau- . Singh in 1839. €€e bequeathed itto the temple of thorities place the time at 275 A. D. It is at all Juggernaut, butten years later, on thedownfall of events an ancient and historic place, where the ruins the Sikh power, it came into the hands of the British. of palaces and fortresses tell the old story of contend- In the Life of Lord Larvwnce may be read a curious ing factions,foreign invasions, the rise andfall of story how he put itin his waistcoat pocket and forgot all dynasties, the bitter rivalry of succession, and all the about it until some days after, when his bearer brought vicissitudes through which nations seem to passin him what he thought was a piece of glass.” carrying out the human law of self. The wonderful ‘‘Mountain of Light”after all its At the time of the Mutiny this was one of the last vicissitudes now adornsthe crown of QueenAlex- and most obstinatestrongholds of native sedition. andra. Whether the stubborn resistance shown by the people was owing to a. feeling of security in their imprep* Now that you have seen one of the hiding places of ble mountain fortress, or to the prideof prestige, or to that historic jewel, the“Great Mogul” (Kohinoor) resolutedetermination to dispossess the British, it is arid with itthe wonderful palace tomb of theGreat difficult to say; but it is well known that, even after Mogul himself, we will seek another field ofstudy. thedefeat of themutineers at Cawnpore and Luck- Consult the general map of India and you will find scv- now andafter the fall of Delhi, itrequired all the enty-seven miles southwardfrom Agrathe historic stratagem and valor of the English to overpower the city of Gwalior. enemy here at Gwalior. The Gwalior Dominions were for a time independent, but are now subsidiary to the Position 72. Celebrated Man Singh Palace, Gwalior, English rule, undera native Maharajah,the son of covered with carvings and enameled tiles thelate Maharajah Sindhia. HisHighness the pres- We are looking eastward toward the southern end entMaharajah succeeded his fatherin 1886. Later of an ancient palace, on the top of a celebrated moun- we shallpresent you toHis Highness,but forthe tainfortress. Before describing this palace I must present, let us consider where we are and what is this tell you something about Gwalior. We are in the city beautiful structurc before us. of Gwalior, situated within the Dominions of Gwalior. We are on what I might call the inland Gibraltar of These Dominions of Gwalior, sometimes called Scindia, India,a rock three miles inlength, one-half mile in embrace a territory of overthirty-three thcusand width,and threehundred feet in height. Fromany square miles. nearly the same as that of the State of part of its summit a panorama commanding the plains

Posltlonr 71-72. Map 1 Posltbn 72. Map l 240 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE GWALIOR 241

in every direction for twenty miles might be obtained. ing to the wall an unsurpassedcharm and elegance. In the plain not far away there is a little Presbyterian The inimitable colors of the enameled tiles are as churchcontaining many memorial tablets to brave brilliant as they were when first made many centuries English soldiers killed at the time of the Mutiny; in ago. another direction stand the glittering white palaces of We are looking eastward and at the southern end of thepresent Maharajah. Nature in one of hcrcapri- the palace ; the eastern front is three hundred feet long cious nlootls thrust up from the level plain this donle and rises one hundred feet above the roadway at its of trap under our fcct. It is crowned with palaces and base. The southface which we now see is one hun- temples ; it is tunneled with subterranean passages; its dredand sixty feet long and sixty feet in height, escarpments are alive withsculptured reliefs ranging showing those fine round towers connected by a bat- in heightfrom six fcct tothirty feet. As a fortificcl tlement of lattice-work;the interior is arranged rock I have called it the Gibraltar of India; because around the two courts which exhibit singularly, beau- of its palaces, its temples, its altars and its sculptures, tiful decoration. A view of the plain below is hid- I mightas fittingly call itthe Acropolis of India. den by the majestic Hathiya Paur, or Elephant Gate. Somesculptures are perfect, many havc been wan- At the entrance to that gate a beautiful carving of an tonly mutilated, as has been the case in all parts of elephant was once placed, and this was the origin of the world-iconoclasm is againanother evidence of the name. The ElephantGate is connected with the the human law of self. Jainism left its impress on this palace andwas built by Man Singh after whom the mount of palaces in some of the most characteristic palace takesits name. Passingthrough that gate architecture of that sect. Therearc near hcrc the andturning to the lefta long roadway leads down ruins of eleven templcs. Jehangir had a palace here; the side of the rock to the city of Gwalior at its base. so also had Shah Jellan; but I can now show you a A guard of native soldiers is always stationed here; portion of only one-the one before which we stand, two of them you see now on duty. the Man Singh palace. We see merely the end of this palace; four others With this single view of a rock-fortress and an In- extendtowards the left, being almost acontinuation dian Acropolis, we descend by yondergate. At the of theMan Singh palace. Although you havc only foot of the mountain a carriage would take us to the a partial view, it is sufficient' to give you an idea of modern palace of His Highness the Maharajah. the grandproportion and the magnificent style in which thebuilding was constructed.This palace has been Position 73. Great Durbar Hallin the Palace of called Chit M~.t~dir(the painted palace), because the His Highness the Maharajah of Gwalior, one of walls are covered with a profusion of beautiful colored India's richest princes tiles, showingcandelabra, Brahmin ducks, elephants Now we are withinthe great Durbar Hall of the and peacocks, enameled in blue, green and gold, giv- Prince of the Dominions of Gwalior. Did you expect ., Posltlon 72. Map 1 Posltkn 73. Map l 242 INDIA\ THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE GWALIOR 243

to find in the land of the Indies a drawing-room like There was no one in sight and the part of the build- this ? A room in which a court or grand gathering is ing to which I referred was some distance away. The held is called in this country a “durbar” room or hall. Maharajah follows the custom of his high caste and I can discover only one article in the furnishing of this arranges absolute seclusion for hisown family. gorgeousapartment which will be strange to anyone Onstate occasions andduring other ceremonial whohas never visited theOrient. The carpets, the functions these gorgeouschandeliers are ablaze with furniture, the massive crystal chandeliers, the fresco- light,displaying most effectively the gilded ceilings ing, are all such as we might see in Europe or Amer- and the rich upholstery as well as the sparkling gems ica; but those objects suspended on heavy silken cords in thedurbar costumes of princelyguests. Court near the chandeliers are punkahs. Yes, a punkah is an etiquette at durbar gatherings amongst natives is, of Indianfan, suspended overheadand made to swing course,very elaborate, and would quiteconfuse the back andforth by acord which passes throughan uninitiated. opening in the wall to a punkah-wallah outside the We have the special privilege of meeting the master room or outside the building. A punkah-wallah means of this great palace and land in his own home. a punkah-fellow-one who swings the punkah day and night when the room, is occupied by people who re- Posifion 74. His Highness the Mahar&ìh of Gwa- quire fanning. The swinging of this heavy cloth stirs lior, one of the richesf men in fheworld the air forcibly. It occurs to me that in some previ- I promised to present you toHis Highness,and ous study I have explained this Oriental fanning ma- you are now before him at the doorway of his palatial chine, but this offers a full view. I presume, however, home. by this time electric fans willbe installed in most of He is the son of a high-born Maratha family, and theIndian palaces. The ladies of the palace never was born in 1876. He received a college education at occupy this fine room ; ladies generally like drawing- the University of Cambridge,England, and gained rooms, but Indian ladies must be hidden away in their thedegree of LL.D. fromthat great institution. He ownapartments. I remember when I was in the succeeded his fatherthe late Maharajah Sindhia in outer court of this very palace with my guide and a 1886. His Highnessis Hon. Colonel in theBritish palace attendant, I noticed awing of the building Army, special A. D. C. to King Edward, and Knight with closed lattice windows;as it appeared secluded GrandCommander of theStar of India. This de- and exclusive enough to be a ladies’ apartment, I in- scendant of a noble line is an excellenttype of the quired of the attendant, at the same time inadvertently newer India of today, keeping well abreast of the times pointing in the direction, if that might be the ladies’ by the reading of European books and journals. Some quarter. He was startled by my rude index hand and years ago he became especially interested in railroads exclaimed-in horrified aspiration-“Don’t point to- and built a narrow gauge road of his own, perfect in wards the ladies !” Of course, I said, “Pardon me !” every detail, in the palace garden. In 1901, when he P.rlU.nr7II. hp1 Posltloa 73. Map 1 l E

244 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE GWALIOR-DELHI 245 went with his regiment over to China to join the in- with European customs. We see by his side an Eng- ternational Allies against the Boxer hordes, he fitted lish official, and behind him native attendants with their out at his own expense a model hospital ship for the sectarial marks on their foreheads. expedition. When we were about to begin our itinerary, I told As we see him here he is dressed in the uniform of you that India is a country where the poor are very an English officer, excepting his cap which is the poorand the rich very rich;the Maharajah is stylish turban or puggree of a native prince; but on one of the very rich;the Durbar Hall in his durbar occasions and at ceremonial functions his cos- palace is a suggestion of his wealth, but only a sug- tume is very costly and picturesque, often of the rarest I gestion. When we reach Delhi we shallsee some of silken fabrics, embroidered in gold and silver with his splendid elephantsgorgeously caparisoned. pearls and rubies to add splendor. The buckles of his shoes may thensparkle with diamonds; his family The next position we shall take for observation will crest and his sword will gleam with priceless jewels ; be in Delhi, and if you do not clearly remember the you can get some idea of the effect if you remember relative location of Gwalior and Delhi it would be well theMaharajah of Tagore whomwe saw in durbar to look up the facts on our map of India as a whole. dressin his palace in Calcutta,and the value of his The route to be followed in an actual journey over the costume and jewels (Position 54). H.H. theMa- ground would take us firstnorthward seventy-seven harajah of Gwalior is even more wealthy thanthe miles from Gwalior to Agra; then northwestward one Maharajah of Tagore. In European countries, royalty hundred miles to Delhi. At Delhi a special local map usually maintains a stud of beautiful horses; here in is provided, for the precise location of our'successive India princes after asimilar fashion show off their standpointsthere. You willfind thenext position, wealth and dignity by maintaining magnificent herds marked 75, nearan angleon the westernside of a of elephants. They have elephant-houses, elephant- heavy outline which indicates the old wall of the gear of every description and elephant keepers to at- fortress. tend thehuge steeds. This prince of Gwalior is not I only very rich, but he is very generous and very popu- Position 75. Curiously rigged camel wagon at east lar. It haslong been one of his kindly practices to side of the largest Mohammedan mosque in the world, Delhi send one of his elephants to meet travelers at the railway station. It is a novel andinteresting expe- l We are looking a little north of west, towards the rience in travel to be met at the station not by a cab great mosque (Jumma Musjid) . We have 'before us nor coolie porters, but instead bp an elephantine*omni- a third style of vehicle; the first we saw in Bombay, bus. the herdic.; the second a Himalayan contrivance called It is needless to say that, H. H. being educated at an ekka. Here we seea two-story camel wagon. In Cambridge, speaks English perfectly and is familiar some parts of this space where we stand camel-wagons 1 -78. I.p 10

I * 246 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 247

from the country find a halting-ground and the camels he has been subjected by cruel masters ever since man are unhitched and allowed to feed while the passen- first appeared on the earth. He was probably the first gers go to the native bazaars and markets to do their beast of burden, as antediluviansand postdiluvians shopping. and camels werecontemporaries occupying the same These heavy wagons as you will readily see are region. An automobile oran Empire State Express clumsy and primitive. Male passengers occupy the is an advance on the prehistoric camel-motor. lower story; women, children and poultry occupy the Beyond the camels we see the largest Mohammedan second. The shafts extend to the saddle or frame on mosque in the world. It is rather distant for an im- the back of the camel and point skyward at an angle pressive view; we shall, however, see itfrom other of forty-five degrees. The average speed of one of positions when only a portion of the great structure these camel-rigs is a little over two miles an hour or. will be in view-therefore, from this point where the about the same as the caravan or transportation camel. greater part of the entire plan is shown, I must tell There are two varieties of camel, the bactrian and you something about it. When I say it is the largest the dromedary-distinguished by two humps in the mosque in the entire world, you may ask if larger than bactrian and one in the dromedary. The latter is the St. Sophia in Constantinople. Yes, much larger when variety used in most parts of India, and southern Asia, we consider it in all its parts-its great quadrangular court, its stupendous gateways and its cloisters. You and also in Arabiaand Egypt. It is said that the ’ dromedary is now nowhere found in a wild state. remember the great emperor and builder, Shah Jehan; The bactrian, however, is still found wild ineastern he it was who erected this, the greatest of all mosques, Turkestan and inthe extreme west of the Chinese and it seems sad to relate that in the very year when Empire. Fossil remains of the camel have been found it was completed he was deposed and imprisoned by and this tends to confirm the belief that it belongs to his son Aurangzeb.* a prehistorica mammalia. It truly looks sufficiently Sir Richard Temple says of the Jumma Musjid :- antiquated to be prehistoric ! ‘‘This is probably the most beautiful mosque on a very We hearwonderful stories about how nature has large scale that has ever been seen in the world. Its provided for the camel an extra stomach which ena- vast dimensions, swelling cupolas, and lofty arches, bles it to exist without water for incredible periods- its spacious court-yard, arcades, gateway, cloisters, and eighteen or nineteen days-those stories are like the flights of steps produce ultimately an imposing effect. fish storiesand the snake stories. Credible authori- But even this is hardly perceived at first by the be- ties give five days as the extreme limit, and that length holder, because his admiration is so riveted by the of time in a desert region is wonderfulendurance. grace of its forms, the nicety of its proportions, the The camel is well nigh useless in muddy ground; his delicate adjustment of its component partsand the worst fault is bad temper; but this is in a degree par- harmony of its coloring. For thematerial of this donable when one considers the bad treatment to which structure, the marble lends its whiteness and the sand- * See page 230. Pooltion 75. Map 10 t Pdtloa Pb. Map 10 248 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 249

stone its finest red.” Not the least impressive feature towardsthe portal of the mosque proper. The map of thisvast pile is the great platform on which it is marksthe spot in the usual manner. reared. The platform is ascended by a flight of forty steps before each of thethree massive portals. You Position 76. Devont Mohammedans prostrate at can judge somewhat of thc majesty of the steps when prayer time-Court of Jnmma Musjid, India’s I tell you thatthe first on theground level is one 1 greatest mosque, Delhi hundredand forty-nine feet long. They rise like the A few minutes ago the muezzin was up in one of three sides of apyramid, gracefully narrowing till those minarets telling all within hearing of his voice

theyreach the portal. Thereare three gateways ap- 1 to come to prayer,and sure enough theyhave come. proached by threesimilar flights of steps. The three You see thousands, but you do not see half. The main

gateways remind us of those we saw at -4gra (Posi- I building beyond is filled and you donot see even half

tion 65), and at Sikandarah(Position 69). The lI of thosewithin the court.Around the buildingout- cp~adrangle with thoseencompassing cloistered walls side the court, the steps and the ground for some dis- is three hundretl and twenty-five feet square; the pave- tance awayfrom the mosque are covered withstill ment within is of white marble. When we reach our 1 otherworshippers, all in the same prostrate position next position we shall see theenclosure filled with at the same moment. -Mohammedans prostrate in prayer. The ponderous We have seen Mohammedans at prayersbefore gates are ornamented with arabesques in heavy brass. (Position g), but then we didnot see them praying Noticethe graceful minarets in whitemarble, one in concert;this is a special occasion, at the conclu- hundred and thirty feet in height. sion of thegreat fast called Ramadan.Ramadan is The life in the foreground shows you a peculiarity the ninth month of the Mohammedan calendar; at the of theoriental man throughout theentire eastern conclusion of the great fast, in imitation of the Christ- world; hehas no knowledge of chairs,nor use for ian Easter the Mohammedanshave ordained a feast them. The common people seldom use them ; they are day called Bairam.This, prayerful scene marksthe sitters, or ground-perchers. They seldom stand in I end of the fast. Prayer on this occasion is regulated familiarconfabs. Theysquat as you see them here; by priestswithin that mosque. As I told you at they sit by the hour in this fashion, smoking and chat- Ahmedabad, Mussulmen at prayer go through a series ting. There isn’t much manly dignity in thiscrouch- of posturesand genuflections; they sometimes stand ing posture, but to them it is restful and not undig- erect, sometimes the open palms are placed behind. nified. their ears ; then they are upon their knees; next they prostrate themselves tothe earth; here on this day We shall obtain from the next position a better and all pray in mechanical rhythm in obedience to a signal nearer view of the portal to the main portion of the from the priest within that mosque beyond the court. mosque. We ascend to the roof of the wall and look (Can you see the priest in his pulpit beneath the cen-

Posleion 75. Map 10 Poritkn 76. Map 10 DELHI 250 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 251 tral arch ?) They bow in unison; they prostrate tllcnl- of the red lines marked 77, the direction and extent of selves and rise again as one. The effect is very strange our next outlook. -no word is audible ; it is silent prayer ; even the lips sca.rcely move. He who knows men’s thoughts re- Position 77. I;ookìng north from a minaret of the greatest mosque in the world over the famous quires no audible words. Thisgreat multitude com- city of Delhi rnunes with Allah silently and without “tinkling cym- bal.” We are looking north over the outskirts of Delhi; Some are attired in whitegarments and others in the principal part of the city is behind us; in the dis- black, and all have been carefully washed beforeof- tance to our rightis the old fort, containing thefamous fering theirprayers. You observe the marble basin palace, the Diwan-i-am; Diwan-i-khas; the Moti Mus- in the center of the court; it is there that worshippers jid and other wonderful buildings. The historic Cash- make their ablutions beforeprayers. You must not mere Gate which we shall see later (Position 78), lies fail to notice the graceful curves in those domes. towards the northwest; the Delhi gate southeast; the This is the second time I have had occasion to re- siege line of theEnglish at thetime of the Mutiny ferto the followers of Mohammed andthe religion is westward;the famousChandni Chowk (Silver which he founded, which hasa following of some- Street, Positions 79-80) extends east and west across thing like one hundredand forty millions.* There the city north of us, i. e., ahead. are many evidences thatthe religion is waning in We are looking out from a cupola or balcony simi- many quarters. Do the great numbers of the Moham- lar to the two now before us-I mean the two which medan faith prove its author to have been a prophet crown the lower minarets. We can here study at close or even a great man ? It would seem to indicate some quartersand in detailthese handsome features pe- unusual qualities, but the same may be said of later culiar to the Mohammedan mosque. These are not of prophets of the Dowie order. Mohammed was an pure white marble like,the ones belonging to the peer- epileptic. It is often difficult to distinguish between less Taj Mahal(Position 66), but of red sandstone, a morbid intellect and one endowed with superior gifts. traced vertically with lines of white marble. The great From all that we can learn concerning the founder of dome and the domical minarets are all lined with black the faith of Islam, it seems beyond doubt that he, like marble while the dark sandstone is lined withwhite many other men was the possessor of some good and marble. The pavilions or balconies are planted in lotus great qualities, and some otherwise. cups of marble. All the pinnacles are of glittering gold. It is from that high pavilion at the top of the For alast view aboutthis great mosque we will minaret thatthe muezzin, five timesa day, lifts his ascend one of the cupolas and look northward over a voice to call the faithful to prayer. This mosque was portion of Delhi. The city map indicates, by the reach completed two hundred and forty-eight years ago; at

See pa-s 43-45, also chapters on Religions. five calls a day for two hundred and forty-eight years, Position 76. Map íO Porltlon 77. Map IO I

252 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 253

t17c devout wail of the muezzin has echoed from these “In 1789 the Maratha chief MahadujiSindia cap- minarets over four 17~111(1rg(land fifty thousand times ! tured Delhi, and the Marathas retained it till, in Sep- Modern Delhi, around us, is a city of two hundred tember, 1803, GeneralLake defeated Louis Bour- thousand inhal,itants. Thcrc have been many Delhis ; quin commanding Sindia’s army, and gained possession city has SLLCCC~~~city, on or near this site, since the of Delhi and of the family and person of the Mogul remoteAryan tirncs. South of thepresent city (off Shah Alam. behind us) there are ruins of many ancient Delhis cov- “In October, 1804, Delhi was besieged by the ering an area of forty-five square miles. All the Maratha Jaswant Rao Holkar, but it was successfully ancient cities seem to have fortsaround which they defended by theBritish under GeneralOchterlony. were built. The Hindu ruins date back to 1052. There From that time to 1857 this old capital of India re- are the ruins of five Mohammedan cities, the first built mained in the possession of the British, although the almut 1304. descendants of the Mogul were allowed some show of “Dellli has been frequently attacked and often cap- royaltyand the title of King.Bahadur Shah suc- L L turetl. It was stlclced by Timur the Alogul in 1398 ; ceeded in 1837; he was about eighty years old when by Nadir Shah the Persian in 1739; by Ahmad Shah theMutiny broke out. With his death at Rangoon Duranithe Afghan in 1756. Onthe 10th of March, in 1862 the last vestige of the Mogul dynasty disap- l 1739, the small Persiangarrison which NadirShah peared.” had introduced into the city when he captured it was almostentirely put to thesword by the people. He Later historybrings us to thetime of the Mutiny gave his troops, who had been summoned fromthe when Delhi fell into the hands of the rebels. We will encampmentoutside the city,orders for ageneral therefore descend, passing northwest through the city massacre. From sunrise till twelve o’clock Delhi pre- to the point where British valor overcamethe desperate senteda scene of shockingcarnage, thehorrors of resistance of the mutineers-the Cashmere Gate. Our which were increased by flames that spread to almost position is marked on the local map, and you see we

every quarter of the capital. The MogulEmperor l are to stand just beyond (outside) the gate,looking Mohammed Shah theninterceded forthe people; southeast. Nadir replied, “the Emperor of India must never ask in vain,” and commanded thatthe massacreshould Position 78. The Cashmere Gate, battered by shot cease. A vast multitude of persons had perished, how- and shell, where theBritish entered (r857), ever, and when Nadir left Delhi he carried with him Delhi immense treasure,estimated at from thirtyto sev- Weare facingsoutheast as we standbefore this enty millions sterling, also the famous Peacock Throne, shell-torn memento of the siege. We acquiredsome and the Kohinoor diamond-* knowledge of the conditions of the Indian Mutiny at * See page 237. Posltion 77. Map 10 254 INDIA THROUCII THE STEREOSCOPE l DELHI 255 Cawnpore and at LLIC~IIOW,~:and Delhi has ever been center of the English position lies directly behind us so closely associated with that memorable event that one mile distant. The wall by this gate was known as we mustnot pass unnoticed this grim reminder of theCashmere Bastion; one-half mile tothe right those days. fromthis gate is theMori Gate, which was also a When the Hindu began todream of an overthrow pointof attack. (Seethe citymap.) A little west- of British rule, his nlind turned to the traditions and ward of the Mori Gate the wall turns southward to the glory of this ancient capital. It is not surprising that KabulGate one-fourth of a mile farther on, andin both Hindusand Mohammedans should think of the another quarter of a mile is the Lahore Gate. Those ancient days when Delhi was a city with two millions l fourgates with theirintervening bastions, covering a of inhabitantsand with many splendid palaces occu- i distance of littlemore than a mile, included all that 1,icdby kings of their own race. If the English could portion of the city which the British besiegers decided be expelled-so they reasoned-there would be a new to attack. Delhi onthe ruins of the old, and all theglories of The Cashmere Gate before us was a chief point of the ancient days would rcttlrn.Such dreams fired attack. The rebels foughtwith the inspiration of a theirimagination. Delhi must be held at whatever hope to reëstablish their ancient empire and with the cost; accordingly all themutinous forces available vengeance of fanaticism; the British fought not merely were brought within the walls, amounting to between withthe usual valor of theSaxon blood, but with fifty andsixty thousand men, who had been armed “Cawnpore” for a watchword,* and with desperation and disciplined by English officers; onehundred and that came of a realization thatdefeat meant loss of , fourteen piecesof heavy artillerywere mounted on empire and a repetition of Cawnpore. Six thousand the walls, and besides the heavy guns they brought in in open attackagainst sixty thousand behind strong andmounted sixty field guns. The mutineershad in defenses, make one think of Balaklava. the city a magazine filled with all sorts of ammunition. It is worth a page or two of detaile¿ history while Against this greatforce, well trained and well armed, yougaze at the scars on that old gate, which after theEnglish forces,including natives who remained fifty years stands as a witness of the bloody struggle. loyal, amounted to less than six thousand. “On the morning of the 4th of September the siege The city is seven miles in circumferenceand with I guns, drawn by elephants with an immense number of this small .force it was impossible to make an invest- I ammunition wagons, appeared on the Ridge. On the ment of the city. It was therefore determined to lay 6th the rest of the Rifles from Meerut marched in. On siege tothe western side. After considerable hard l the 8th the Jummoo contingent arrived with Richard fightingthe English succeeded in drivingthe rebels i Lawrence at their head. Many, andamongst them from a hill known in siege history as the Ridge, which foremost of all, Nicholson, chafed at the delay which afforded an advantageous position for siege guns. The occurred in storming Delhi. . . . ‘hPages 204-217. See pages ao4-aog. Parltka 78. hp10 I 256 INDIA TIIROUGII THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 257

“Investment by the English with their limited means two 18-pounders, and the left section nine 24-pounders. being impossible, it was necessary to concentrate all . . . At 8 A. M. on the 11th of September the nine their breaching power on a portion of the wall selected 24-pounders in theleft section of No. 2 Battery for a front attack. This was the Mori, Cashmere and opened withterrific effect onthe Cashmere Bastion. Water Bastions, with theirconnecting curtains. This The enemy replied and severely wounded the com- front was choscn because the fire of the Mori Bastion mandant of theheavy guns, but their fire was soon alone commanded the approach to it, and because there silenced by No. 2 Battery, aided by the mortars in the was excellent cover to within a short distance of the Kudsiya Bagh (a garden three hundred yards to our I I walls. On theevening of thesixth of September,a left).The walls of Delhi began to fall, and whole light battery consisting of six 9-poundcrs and two 24- yards of parapet came down. At 11 A. M. on the 1)om(lers, mdcr the command of Captain Remington, 12th, No. 3 Battery unmasked and pounded the Water

1 was concentrated on the plateau of the Ridge to pro- Bastioninto ruins (half a mile toour right). All tect theoperations going on below. On the night of throughthe 12th and 13th the roar of fifty heavy the7th, the first heavy battery was constructcd at guns was heardday and night without intermission. seven hundredyards from the wall. It consisted of “On the 13th, Alexander Taylor-f whom Nichol- twoparts connected by atrench. Theright portion sonsaid :-‘If I survivetomorrow I will let all the held five heavy guns and a howitzer, the function of world know that Aleck Taylor took Delhi’-announced which was to demolish theMori Bastion. Theleft that the brcaches were practicable. The arrangements held four guns to keep down the fire of the Caslmlere forstorming Delhi wereforthwith made. The first Bastion.While tlarkncss lastctl the enemy only fired colunm under Nicholson consisted of threehundred twice ; when themorning rcvealctl theBritish plans men of the 75th Foot, two hundred and fifty of the the rebels poured in a shower of shot am1 shell, but the 1stFusiliers, and four hundred and fifty of the 2d Englishpersevered in theirwork and before sunset PunjabInfantry. It was tostorm the breach in the the rebel battery was silenccd. curtainnear the Cashmere Bastion. The second col- “The English had lost 70 men in the trenches. The umn, under Brig. Jones, C. B., was to storm the breach left section of theirbattery maintained a fire on the in the Water Bastion, and it consisted of two hundred CashmereBastion duringthe greater part of three and fifty men of the 8th Foot, two hundred and fifty days, but at noon on the 10th it took fire and thc guns of the 2d Fusiliers,and threehundred and fifty of of necessity were withdrawn. By that time No. 2 the 4th Sikhs. The third column, under Col. Campbell Battery had becn finishcd-the left section imnediately of the 52d, was to assault the Cashmere Gate, and con- in the front of Lurllow Castle (one-quarter mile to sisted of two hundred men of the 52d Foot, two hun- l ourleft) andthe right section ninety yardsto the dred and fifty of the Kumaon Battalion, and five hun- front of it.Both were within six hundredyards of dred of the Ist Punjab Infantry. The fourth column, the city;the right section had seven howitzersand under Major Charles Reid, who so long and gallantly i’ Pasltlan 78. Map 10 Porltlom 78. M.p 10 ! i 258 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 259

held the post of Hindu Rao’s house (on a ridge at plied, and soon both sections of the first column had theleft of the Englishline), was toenter by the carried the breach nearthe Cashmere Bastion, and Lahore Gate. It consisted of eight hundred and sixty taken up their position at the Main Guard. The second men of theSirmur Battalion, the Guides andother column entered by the breachin the CashmereCur- corps. The fifth column, the Reserve, was commanded tain, doubled along the open space to their right and by Brig. Longfield, and consisted of seventeenhun- cleared the ramparts to the Mori Bastion, where the dred men. Besides these five columns, HopeGrant rebel gunners fought gallantly and were bayoneted at with six hundred sabres of the 9th Lancers and Sikh I their guns. The column thenadvanced and took the I Horse, whose dutyit was preventto sallies fromthe l Kabul Gate, on which a soldier of the 61st planted a Lahore and Ajmere Gates, were for long under heavy a flag. fire. “From the Lahore Gate theenemy kept up a galling l “On thenight of 13th,the Lieuts..Medley and Lang fire. Nicholson collected a number of men to storm explored the CashmereBreach (atthe right of this thisgate. As he advancedhe found himself in a gate), andGreathed and Home that of theWater long, narrow lane lined with marksmen on both sides. Bastion (half a mile to our right). Some of the enemy’s guns were brought to bear on “Themorning of the14th was fine and still. theattacking column, andthe men fell fast. Major Nicholson laid his hand on Brig. Jones’ shoulder, and Jacob of the Ist Fusiliers received hisdeath wound. asked him if he was ready. He then rejoined his own Captain Greville and Lieut. Speke were struck down. column, gave the order to storm, and immediately the The column wavered; Nicholson rushed forward, his heavy guns, which were roaring at their loudest, be- lofty stature renderedhim conspicuous, andin a came silent. The Rifles sounded the advance, and the moment he was shot through the body and in spite of first and second columns ascended the glacis. The fire his remonstrances was carried to the rear to die. of the enemy was terrible,and Engineers Greathed “The third column had been appointed to enter the and Ovendon were the first to fall. city throughthe Cashmere Gate, which was to be “Thestormers carrying the ladders were led by blown open by Lieuts. Home and Salkeld, Sergeants Captain Baines andLieut. Metje. When Baines Carmichael, Burgessand Smith. Home, with his reached theWater Bastionhe had only twenty-five bugler, was first down into the ditch. He planted his men leftout of seventy-five. Both he andMetje bag,but as Carmichaeladvanced with his he was I were carried disabled to the rear. mortally wounded. Smith then advanced, placed his The first column was divided intotwo sections. dying comrade’s bag as well as his own and prepared Nicholson himself led one, and Col. Herbert of the the fuses for ignition. Salkeld was ready with a slow 75th theother. Nicholson was the first tomount the match but as he was lighting it he received two bul- wall. In the other section Lieut. Fitzgerald, who was lets; . . . the matchwas taken by Burgess, and I thefirst to ascend, wasshot dead. His place wassup- Smith was in the act of giving him a box of lucifers

Porltloa 78. Map 10 260 INDIA THROUGHTHE STEREOSCOPE

when Eurgess also fell with a bullet through his body. Smith was now alone; but he had struck a light and before his men to leadthem against the last strong- n’as applying it when a port-fire went off in face. his hold, was in the moment of victory brought down by There was a thick snloke and dust, then a roar and a a rebel bullet. I refer to thegallant Nicholson. The crash, as Smith scrambled intothe ditch. There he dreamthat inspired the stubborn resistance of the I)lacu(l his hands on ITome, who said he was unhurt, Hinduand Mohammedan at Delhiproved only a ad havi~~gjoincd the columnwent forward.The dream; and the fanaticism of the Mutiny proved in- Gate had been shattered-not so destroyed as had been effectual against English steel and valor. anticipated but thethird colunlnpassed through it. The old gateway still stands with all its scars and Smith thenobtained stretchers and had Burgess a1~1 memories. Theponderous gates are goneand some Salkcld carricd tothe camp, but both of thcmdied restorations have been made within the arches. You -J-:urgess on the way, and Salkeld a few days after- war(l.c;.” Thc almve is but an intimation of the terrible strug- gle hy wl~ich thc walls wcrc hreachcdand an en- tranceto the city was madc. It required six more days of hardfighting by this small fclrce against thc hosts witlin the city, before the place was fully occu- pied by the British. Does it notfire your blood whcn you look t1l~011 these grim reminders of a handful of our gallant kin scalingthese walls anddashing forward with bags of powderunder a showerof bullets from the wall to the right, to blow away the ponderous iron-bolml gatcs which barred the portals of those massive arch- ways? It seems allnostunkind to mention onehero whereall were heroes; but one cannotrepress a pe- culiartenderness of sorrow, because he whochafed underthe delay in attackingthe city, and whogave the order to “storm,” and who wasfirst to scale the wall near this gate and then to lead hisdecimated bandalong the spacewithin the wall tothe Mori Gate, then onward to the Lahore Gate, and who, when theremnant of his column waveredbefore a galling

Posltlon 78. Map 10 DELHI 263

but full of attractions for the itinerant, notwithstand- thecarrot, geranium and turpentine, a comparison ing. Notice where the map indicates our nextstand- quite correct. point. The only fruit on this stand which I can recom- Position 79. Your moneyPSworth of juicy frait, at mend is a small species of banana to be seen suspended a stand 0x1 Chandni C2lowk (SilverStreet), Delhi inthe rear a little to theleft of thedusky vendor. Alt110~1g11 we are in Chandni Chowk, or Silver Thoselittle bananas are known as “lady-fingers.” Street, we see little of thestreet and nothing of sil- They are sweet, juicy and well-flavored, and are found ver, but chiefly this fruit stand surrounded by a mot- at every meal on every European table in India, de- ley crowd of unwashed Hindus. We are, as the map licious and as wholesome as apples. The largefruit shows, in theheart of thenative city; this region on theright is a species of musk-melon, found in always presents a bustling scene of nativc business nearlyevery country. I ca,n identify a poor quality activity. Our ncxt position will afford a better view of pear which grows at elevations, and pomegranates, of the strcct itself. IIcre we must content ourselves always seedy, worthlessfruit. The mango I cannot with giving a little attention to thc snhject of fruit. discover, it being probably out of the mango season. 711 the first place, thcrc SCCII’IS to be considerable The papaw is not on this stand, although it grows in similarity in the varieties on this stand. Those who India, but of an inferior quality. have not beenin tropical countries areapt to think The ethnological is more interesting than the fruit that the fruits here are of a rare and excellent quality. exhibit. The half-dressed, squalid appearance of the ’~Ve hear of bread-fruit, custard-apples, pomegranates, dark-skinned assemblage about the stand is always re- guavas, alligator pears, mangosteens, mangoes, durians, pugnantto the stranger. What would you think of pomelos, papaws, leechus, ancl many others ; but my a fruit-seller in New York or London sitting amongst own opinion is-and I have tasted nearly every fruit edible fruits with nude, grimy knees thrust up before ill the tropical world-that the merits of all thc fruits you? Farther backyou see several well-nigh nude in thetropics reduced into one would not take the figures, others with thin, dirty shirts, in whole or in ])lace of a good mellow, juicy apple. Xonc, I think, part, which have never known the dhobie’s craft. The Imt will agrec thatthe fruits of Indiaare nluch in- grimy and semi-nude coolies stare at the photographer, ferior to those of Europe. The indigenous fruits are knowing his work is a constant desecration according inferior to the same species in other tropical coun- to the Koran-the making of images. tries. The best fruits have been introduced from abroad. The mango is probably the most common and We will now wend our way to where the map shows popular fruit;it is the apple of India. The best the number 80, at thewestern end of the famous varieties of the mango were introduced from the Malay Chandni Chowk, where we can look into the celebrated peninsula, the indigenous kind being intolerable-its thoroughfare; yet it is so filled with lines of trees flavor has been described as a combination of that of that much of the view will be still obscured. Our

~ Position 79. Map 10 posltlon 79. map 10 DELHI 265

view intoSilver Street is, however, on a rare oc- of the oriental mind fromtime immemorial; they casion ancl we shall find thestreet occupied with have always been a leading feature of great occasions. something more wonderful than trees. This occasion has gone down to history as the great “Delhi Durbar,” held to honor and commemorate the Posìtion So. Marvels of richness and grandeur---tl’e coronation of King Edward VIL of England as Em- great Durbar procession at Delhi peror of India. The term durbar is from the Persian

Again WC are in Chandni Chowk. Fromour last word darbar, which implies a prince’s court or audi- psition thestreet was hidden by our nearnessto a ence chamber; now it is generally used to denotea fruit-stand : from this position it is partially obscured grand reception or levee, especially a reception of 1)y vast multitudes of people-multitudes so great as native princes held by the Viceroy of India. A dur- to fill windows ant1 streetsand to cover the roofs; bar was held by the princes of India when Queen Victoria was made Empress in 1877, but that held in $0 that. if we cannot obtain an mobstructed view of the strcct am1 its sl~ops,we can we something 111uch .i 1902 when Edward VI1 was madeEmperor far sur- grantlcr, rarer, and morc womlerful. If never before passed all other previous durbars. It was inaugurated Lord at that time Viceroy India. Lord ill thc long history of Delhi its famous street possessed by Curzon, of a character suitable toits name, it surely does at Curzon was exceedingly popularwith native princes, this time; for neverbefore in past or present, in its and,through his popularity and his wonderfultact many centuries of historic splendor, has Silver Street andenergy, succeeded in organizingand carrying been so full of silver as at the present moment. throughthis surpassingly magnificent durbar. The You will understand what I mean when I state that Viceroyinspired theMaharajahs of the different we are so fortunate as to be looking down into this states and provinces with a spirit of rivalry in prepara- street when it is filled from end to end with the most tionfor this grand occasion. Fabulous sums were gorgeous pageant ever presented to the gaze of man, expended in preparation both by the many Maharajahs either in ancient or modern times. This pageant is and by the Government. The wealthy princes brought several miles in length and extends beyond this street to Delhitheir finest elephants from every stateand far out into the suburbs of Delhi, but the portion of province, even fromCashmere and other remote the procession which is nowpassing is composed of states ; they brought also their rarest and richest treas- two hundred and nineteen of the finest elephants with- ures, an exhibition of which, in astupendous build- in theEmpire, caparisoned in gold andsilver and ing erected forthe purpose, wasone feature of the embroidery of gold and costly silks, which represent Durbar.Visitors came from every part of the Em- in value a goodly proportion of the wealth of a vast pireand from foreign countries. empire. Eachnative prince established ‘an encampment, Pageantry and spectacular pomp have been favorites usually covering manyacres and containing many richly decoratedtents. And when I say “richly dec-

Posltko 80. Map 10 parltbn 80. Msp to 26’6 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 267

orated tents,” I imagine you have a very inadequate richly and extravagantly caparisoned in gold and sil- idea of what is Incant. I mean tentsdecorated with verand richest silks, and ridden by their princely needle-work and often fifty feet across, with center- owners dressed in durbar costumes, sparklingwith pole and other supports of plated silver, with throne priceless gems. or statechair and other furnishings in goldand sil- Here is passing before you now, through Chandni ver, and the entire ground area within the tents cov- Chowk, the most magnificent procession of elephants ered with costly Oriental rugs. An encampment often theworld has ever witnessed. The center of this included from ten to fifteen tents to accommodate the street is taken up with two rows of trees; the space official subordinatesand servants of asingle prince. on the right of the trees equals that on the left. On These tent encampments extended out over the Dur- the central ground temporary seats have been put UP, barPlain near Delhi for seven miles, resembling a extendingthe fulllength of thestreet, which sold vast sea overspread with huge white water-lilies. quickly at a rupee each. Roof space, as you can infer, Everything was on thesame great scale, andex- has been in great demand at all sorts of prices. tencling over a period of twelve days. It included a This procession was drawn up in line at the rail- military review of fortythousand troops encanlped way station to await the arrival of Their Excellencies on theDurbar Plain. An amphitheatre to hold ten Lordand Lady Curzon andTheir Highnesses the thousand spectators was erected on the plain, in which Duke and Duchess of Connaught. The Viceroy and the Durbar coronation ceremonies were held. On the Vicereine rode the foremost elephant; they were fol- Sabbath religious services were held, when the out- lowed by the Duke and Duchess of Connaught-then door congregationwas so largethat announcements came princes of the blood inorder of their rank; were made and hymns given out through the mega- thenumerous retainers of the princes followed. I phone. need not tell you how the line of this regal procession, Then therewere the ceremony of Investiture and the extending for many miles,. was crowded with wonder- State Ball in the Diwan-i-Am Palace in the Fort; ing spectatorsfrom all over the world; you can see the Review of the Retainers-that is, a procession of from this position how great multitudes are assembled all the retainers belonging to the many princes pass- to witness this scene of incomparable spIendor. ing before the multitude in the Amphitheatre. There was some marvelous andstrange function for each Owing to the narrowness of this half of the street, day of the Durbar; but I have only timeand space and the dense crowd, along with shadows cast by those to place before you a glimpse of the most splendid and trees, the procession in the distance is somewhat ob- dazzling, the most bewildering and spectacular feature scured. For that reason we will seek another Posì- of the entire Durbar, viz. :-the “State Entry,” which rion from which we car^ obtain a more open and un- included this parade of two hundred and nineteen of * interrupted view. About one-half mile fromwhere thelargest and most statelyelephants in all India, we stand, and not far from the farther end of Chandni Porltlon 80. hpîO Poritkn 80. Map 10 .. 268 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 269

Chowk, is thegreat hlosque, Jumma Rlusjid, with photographer at that point and the people are facing n.hich we havc already bucorne somewhat familiar ; eastward, because the procession is advancingfrom just sotlth of thgreat Alosquewe will takeanother that direction, but near the mosque it turns towards positiol~\vl~crc we can look down and over the line the place weoccupy. You can distinguishthe pro- of huge ant1 gorgeously decked steeds bearingtheir cession far away along the wall of the Fort, advancing hejewclled masters. The point where we shall stand towards the right. is n~arkcdS1 011 our map. For a second position-the one we at this moment occupy-I hired from the municipality a space ten feet Position 81. The fabulous wealth of India-native Princes in the grand State sntry, Delhi Durbar squareon this open ground by the street,with the privilege of erectinga photographing stand thereon. Now we are in an open space near the Jumma Mus- For a monopoly of tensquare feet I paidforty jitl : we are looking northeasttowards the fortress rupees ($20). I erected on this space a platform containing the famous old palace built by Shah Jehan. twenty feet high which I decorated with bunting and The walls of th Fort and the palace towering above Englishand American flags. Onthat commanding cm be sccn in the tlistancc. (Comparewhat you see platform we are now standing; and I am sure we are with whatthc map tells of the walled fort.) We see as near and as high as you could possibly wish to be. at the left the wonderful flight of steps I described I found it necessary to guardmy elevated perch against when we were studying the mosque (page 248).Those interlopers-it was in the midst of a surgingand steps are well covered withspectators except where excited multitude, andit was not sufficient to rope the outlook is unfavorable. The broad platform at the off my stand ; it was necessary to hire a valiant native top is covered withtemporary seating accommoda- to stand by each post. Even this was not sufficient to tions, all taken at high prices by the higher classes. keep back those in a desperate search for some slight The Durbar was a historical event of so great im- elevation, so I kept by my side a long pole with portance,that, in order to secure the best possible which to rap the heads of the intruders. Natives give stereographic representation, the publishers of this tour little heed to a protest from their own kind; but they sent special photographersfrom London to assistin honor the “big-stick” admonitions of a European. the work. Previous totheir arrival, I had been on Now let us gazeand in some degree analyze this the ground selecting the most advantageous positions scene of unparalleled splendor :-First, observe the fine for photographic operations. One of my chosen points military bearing of theseSikh guards, carefully was on those steps, and, even from this distance you groomed, in black uniform with huge red turbans ; the may discover my coadjutor now in front of the sec- line of this grand State Entry for miles was guarded ond raised umbrella to the right. There, at the angle by such superb specimens of native soldiers. For days of the steps, I hired fromthe mosque officials one andnights those men have been busy preparing for squareyard of space for twenty rupees ($10). The this great occasion; every button and buckle and piece Posltlon 81. Map 10 panka 81. Mmp 10 270 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 271

of metal on their uniforms and on their arms has been h.ve been considering;they are of heavy cloth em- polished, and now every man stands in military broidered in gold and silver; one caparison-cloth simi- rigidity, a sparkling unit in the miles of troops which la?? to these, manufactured in Calcutta, cost twenty compose the guard of honor. thausand rupees ($10,000). As already intimated, all Within the line of soldiers, you see advancing, in the the princes vied one with the other tomake their Dur- procession, men inunusual costumes, some bearing bar display the most magnificent. lances andothers carrying princely paraphernalia ; Think of that far-extendingline of elephants. To those are retainers of the native princes. Retainers are all that is suggested here, could you add the gorgeous servitors and are higher than ordinary servants. One colors of rare fabrics, theglitter of burnishedgold carries a ladder used in mounting elephants ; another and silver, and the sparkle of gems on the durbar cos- is supporting the heavy, depending silken blanket of tumes within that long line of howdahs, it would as- his master’s elephant. You will notice thatthe de- sist in giving you an adequate idea of the costliness phants aremarching two abreast; the great blanket and unequaled splendor of this procession. An esti- on thefirst elephant on the right is of heavy tufted matenot unreasonable placed the valuation of each silk on the outsicle, lined with red silk and bordered elephant with his decoration, alongwith thedurbar with silver-threadembroidery. The head-dress is of personal adornment of the princes within the howdah, thesame material with a borderin dark rich colors at $150,000. Multiply $150,000 by two hundred and surmounted with inlaid silver discs; a long string of nineteen, the number of elephants, and you will have silver bells extends around the breast; besides the bells some basis for comprehending the magnificence of the of silverhe wears a heavy necklace of solid silver, DurbarState Entry. And youmust not forget that also bracelets or anklets-whicheverwe may choose even this procession of elephants was only one feature to call them-of the same material. The base of the of the State Entry; it contained manymilitary and howdah is of splendid repoussé copper-work, the pil- civic presentations which added much to its interest. lars of silver, the band around the canopy of engraved $ver; the arches around the howdah are trimmed with I am stwe you have seen m your school-bmks‘dur- silk. The mahout perched upon the neck of the gor- ing your school-days, or in pictures in histories dur- geously decked mount isswinging his imperial fly- ing after years, a greattower near Delhi whose name , whisk, which is made of the bushy tail of a yak always offersa stumbling sort of orthography ; its mounted in a silver handle;this is usually kept in pronunciation bothers me still, because it is always motion as a menace to the ever-present flies that honor awkward to make syllables without vowels; some neither prince nor peasant. The faces of the elephants writers, however, give it a phonetic spelling. I refer are, gaudily painted, showing figures and artistic de- tothe name “Kutb Minar,” a tower surpassing all signs. The caparison-cloths of otherelephants near the towers in the world in the elaborate beauty of its are even more splendid and costly thanthe one we construction. This wonderful old tower is nearly Positloa ßl. Map 10 -81. R410

’ I. 272 INDIA THROUGII THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 273

you saw the world’s greatest mosque (Position 75). At Calcutta you took shelter among the aerial branches of the largest banyan tree in existence (Position 52), there you also saw a man-eater that holds the world‘s record (Position 50) ; and here again, you are before a tower which claims a world-record. When precedence among theworld’s great towers is claimed for the Kutb Minar, we may think of the Position 82. Kutb Minar, Moslem Tower of Victory near Delhi Bunker Hill and Washington towers; we may recall the Leaning Tower of Pisa ; the Campanile at Florence, The historic and often-pictured Kutb Minar isbe- or the one at Venice; but none of these are worthy fore us. We are looking northeast; and if we were on of comparison with their Indian predecessor. The the top of the tower looking in the same direction we Washington Monument is much higher, the Florentine could see Delhi elevenmiles away and the shimmer campanile a trifle higher, but neither will allow of corn- of the Jumna winding its course through the plain. parison with this. The former may be regarded as a To malct my negative for this stereograph, owing to sky-scraping flight of masonry, thelatter a truly the great height of my subject 1 was oblige-d to move beautiful pile; but let me give you the comparison far back into this ragged field, full of shrubbery and made by one whose judgment you will hardly qua- remnants of ancient walls. From this position we ob- tion, that of Fergusson :- tain a full view of the wonderful tower, though we “It is probably not too much to assert that the Kutb can see nothing of the many remarkable ruins of Minar is the most beautiful example of its class known ancient cities, fortresses and palaces all about this to exist anywhere. The rival that will occur to most place. We have come here to see the Kutb Minar, people is the Campanile at Florence, built -by Giotto. adnow it claims our attention. That is, it is true, thirty feet taller, but it is crushed At the beginning of our itinerary I promised many by the mass of the cathedral alongside; and, beautiful interesting and wonderful things in India. Already, though it is, it wants the poetry of design and ex- I have shown you the imperial mountain range of the quisite finish of detail which mark every moulding of world (Position 40), and what is always conceded to the Minar. . . , When viewed from the court of be the most beautiful structure in the world, the Taj the Mosque its form is perfect, and, under any aspect, (Position 66). ,You saw at Ellora the most perfect is preferable to the prosaic squareness of the outline and wonderful rock-hewn temple in the world (Posi- of the Italian example. . tion 7) ; you saw from our last position the greatest “The only Mohammedan building known to be taller and most resplendent processional exhibition the world than this is the minaret of the Mosque of Hassan at has ever witnessed (Position 81). In the same city Cairo; but, as the pillar at Old Delhi is a wholly in-

Fœitbn 02. Imp1 18 274 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE DELHI 275 dependent building, it has a farnobler appearance, and both in design and finish far surpasses not only its but the restoration was badly done-much injury was Egyptian rival butany building of its kind known done to inscriptions ; balconies were removed and to me in the whole world.” replaced by flimsy balustrades ; a new cupola was made It seems that there is no positive record of the time but was never raised to its place; it remains on the when the Kutb Minar was erected nor by whom; but mound nearthe base, a memorial of incompetence theconjectural time is 1052 A. D. andthe builder and blundering neglect. one AnangPal-II. It is supposed to have beenin- There are five stories with four beautifully corbelled tended for a Tower of Victory, but whether of Hindu balconies ; and you must allow at least twenty feet for or Mohammedan origin remains uncertain. It is a the missing cupola. The first balcony is ninety-seven tradition of the locality thatit was built by Rai feet from the base, the second one hundred and forty- Pithora, a ruler whose daughter wished an elevation eight feet; thethird one hundred and eighty-eight feet and the from which she could view the Jumna river-a plaus- fourth two hundred and fourteenfeet. Do not fail to notice the variety of design in the lower ible tradition, because it represents a very likely feminine whim, and this might therefore appropriately story-the projecting ribs or flutes are alternately angularand circular; in the second story they are be called theTower of a Girl’s Whim. All towers circular; in thethird they are altogether angular; II seem to delight in mysterious purpose and identity. ,l’*:Il This one is surrounded by mystery;the Leaning Tower above the fourth all is white marble. My bearer has I appeared at the top, whither I sent him to demon- :j/j j of Pisa holds a secret. The dagobas of the Buddhistic strate the relative height of ahuman figure at t.hat world are hiding places for sacred relics; pagodas in elevation; he was too far away and too high to hear China are only exaggerated pinnacles of the dagoba myvoice-I could only motion to him to ,assume a and serve as excellent hiding places for bats, and bats pose which would enable one to distinguish a per- belong tothe mysterious members of the Chinese sonal presence; extended an arm, he imitated, and, pantheon. All the numerous round towers of Ireland I sure enough, there he stands as I left him years ago! long refused to tell their purpose or who their builders were; even our little American round tower in Rhode From this distance we cannot distinctly discern the Island obstinately keeps its story from the inquisitive exquisite ornamental detail, which is, so wonderful and world. which has been called thepoetry of this surpassing The Kutb Minar is two hundred and forty feet in architectural structure; we will therefore approach to height; the base diameter is forty-seven feet and three a pint from which we shall be able to comprehend inches. The diameter at thetop is nine feet. The 4 the breadth and richness sf the detail. original cupola was ‘ thrown down by an earthquake in 1803, and the entire structure seriously injured at the same time. The cupola was restored in 1829; lb8ttka 82. M.p 10 276 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE bELH1-ULWAR 277

Position 83. Gigantic embroidery in stone at the lar which antedates the Minar by seven hundred years. base of Kutb Minar, Moslem Pillar of Vicfory, A littleover fourhundred feetnorth of us is the Delhi beginning of a second tower, called Alai Minar, which Now we are looking directly north, and so near the was carried only to a height of fortyfeet and left great Minar that it occupies almost the entire field of mfinished; if completed, it would have been twice the ‘ vision ; we can see the different shades of the sandstone size of the one before us, that is, five hundred feet. of which it is built; we can see distinctly thetwo Let us part from another of India’s peerless wonders forms of flutes so differentfrom what we ordinarily in the use of Stoddard’s graceful words:-“Unutterably see in fluted columns; we can now also observe the solemn, therefore, seems thismighty column, look- bands of dark sandstone, beautifully inscribed in ing majestically down from its imposing height upon Arabic script-three bands in thefirst story, two in thesilent desolation of the plains. For thoughfrom the second, andtwo also in the third. The inscrip- this, thegrandest of all Moslem minarets, no voice tions, being in Arabic,and recording passages from now calls to prayer, these Arabic inscriptions still pro- the Koran,make it apparentlycertain that this part claim, as they have done for centuries, the mercy md of the work was done by Mohammedans. One in- majesty of God.” scription reads :-“Allah invites to Paradise andbrings into the way of righteousness all who are willing to From Delhi our course turns southward, and, be- enter.)’ In AsiaticResearches (Vol. XIV, p. 481) fore we conclude our journey at he southern end of the inscription on the fourth band is translated as fol- the great peninsula, we have yet more than two thou- lows :-“The erection of this building was commenced sand miles to traverse. The renowned city of Jey- in the glorious time of the great Sultan, the mighty pore is set down on our India mapsouthwest about

King of Kings, the Master of Mankind, the Lord of one hundredand eighty miles from Delhi, and mid- ’ the Monarchs of Turkestan,Arabia, and Persia, the way between Delhi and Jeypore lies the city of Ulwar Sun of the World and Religion, of the Faith and of which most travelersdesire to see; therefore-hop- the Faithful, the Lord of Safety and Protection, the ing it may not be for aye, but for a time only-we Heir of the Kingdoms of Suliman-Abu Muzeffa Al- say farewell to the great Minar and to Delhi, for a temsh Nasir Amin ul Momenin.” Anyking with a glimpse or two in the prettily located city of Ulwar. name like that should be able to build a pretty high Poeìtion 84. One of the loveliest spots in India- tower. This inscription, it would seem, ought to set- kìosk-bordered tank at Ulwar by a etately tomb tle the question as to who was the builder of the pres- of myalty ent Minar; but there may possibly have been previous Weare in Ulwar looking across a portion of a beau- towers. tiful artificial pool of water, often called a tank in the Ruins near by are much older than this tower. There East. Ulwar is the name of a province or state, nearly stands scarcely seventy yards from here an iron pil- as large as thestate of Maine. The city in which Podtion 83. Map i0 278 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE ULWAR 279. we now stand is also called Ulwar, and has a popula- riage, an enormous vehicle, two stories high, carry- tion of fifty-seven thousand. The Maharajah who ing fifty people,and usually drawn by four finely reigns over this state succeeded tothe position in 1892, his name being Jai Singh. His Highness was caparisoned elephants. This was one of the wonder- educated in Mayo College, and of course speaks Eng- ful things which His Highness took to Delhi to take lish fluently; he has likewise adopted many English part in the Durbar processions. His stud of several habits. The annual allowance toHis Highness was hundred beautiful horses is an interesting sight. At formerly about $90,000; besides this sum there are feeding time they are called from the jungle in a furi- extra allowances for a stud of four of five hundred ous gallop, clearing walls and fences in a wild race for horses and a herd of elephants. You may infer with food. what magnificence his palace and surroundings are maintained, when you notice the splendid kiosks by Fromour next position I will show you a novel which this tank is encompassed. Compare them with substitute for horses. the flimsy and ephemeral wooden structures we see in Position Ss. Bow beauty takes the air-Indian met public and private grounds in our own country. . or bnllmk carriage used by ladies of rank, Ulwar This pool with the beautiful buildings by which it I. is surrounded, with theFort above commanding a Many of the wonderful things we have seen in ,l'!: view of the entire city and valley, constitutes one of India belong to the middle or remote past; except in

'Y\I I,' ' the most lovelyviews in India. Towards our left lie railways, locomotion is not an exception. A demon- the Palace and the Zenana (the ladies' quarter) ; to- strationis before us; and this isnot the first; you wards the west are several handsome temples of Vish.- have seen the herdic (Position 2), the ekka (Position nu; northward are other temples and shrines hidden 28)', the camel-wagon (Position 75) ; you have seen among umbrageous trees; and, beyond those exquisite a twenty-woman team (Position 38), you have seen kiosks, you see the splendid cenotaph of Bakhtawar the rickshaw (Position 30). Thereare many'other Singh, a pavilion resting on many white marble pil- modes of locomotion which you have not seen, such lars. All visitors on entering that beautiful mausoleum as the jhampan, the palankin and others ;the howdah- are required to remove their shoes. Fromthe ceno- elephant you have seen in full glory (Positions 80-81)- taph a magnificent view may be obtained ; in one direc- One more antique conveyance we have to show YOU tion the view commands a well wooded plain and in from this position in Ulwar ; it is called in native par- another youwould see theFort far above. Osten- lance the reet; in English we call it a bullock-cart. tatious peacocks and countless rock-pigeons wander This is quite stylish in its way, although to us it seems unmolested over its marble pavements. quaint and antiquated;there is splendid dignity in One of the many wonderful and precious treasures the bullocks; they are surely conscious of a bovine, possessed by the Indian ruler here is an elephant car- elevation far above the water-buffalo who wallows in the paddy-fields. These bullocks are less fortunate Parltloo 84. Map 1 ~88.ma# l ..

__ - -. - .-- -. .. .. -. .-. ..- 280 INDIA THROUGH THE STEKEOSCOPE JEYPOBE 281

than the cows of the same species because less sacred; show that the first ox is not unconscious of the near they are compelled to do service ; the cow is not. The presence of photographic manœuvres. . relationship reminds one of the prospective one be- tween the “new woman” and man-apotheosis and the We are now ready for another railway jaunt of yoke. The harness issimple enough-a guiding rope eighty miles to the city of Jeypore, a place we must through the nose, sometimes an additional hole through not pass without someinspection. To every traveler the ear with cord attached when a steed asserts his in India the home interrogatory will often be :-“Did own whims too persistently; we can see a tell-tale ring you go to Jeypore ?” The city of Jeypore is claimed in the off ear of the nigh ox. (Do not let ox nomen- to have more resemblance to a European city than cIature confuse you; it is sometimes as with the right any other place in India. There we shall find palaces and left bank of a river; the right bank is on the left as usual, and poverty as usual; these, indeed, we find hand when looking up stream, so the “nigh” ox is the in every part of the world. Wealth and poverty, for- one farthest away as we stand just now.) tune and misfortune, must always cwexist; they both The construction of thecarriage is more compli-, to a ,certain degree belong to the constitution of man. cated thanthat of the harness. The fancy of both Posìtion 86. North from Sanganir Gate up Jauhrì the Hindu and the Mohammedan mindis so imbued Baaaar, a typical business Btreet in prosperous with the domical in architecture that a reet as well as Jevpore a portico must have a dome. It lookslike a little We are in one of the principal streets looking di- mosque with dome and arches and porch, all on a rectly north; it is about mid-day ; the light is stróng rather unstable platform. The running gear is very and the shadows are northward.Watch the ’ busy crude; but the richly embroidered canopy and cur- oriental life in this spacious avenue while I state some tains havecost the imprisoned inmates of some facts about this interesting city before we studythe Zenana months of patient toil. When women of rank scene in detail. go out in this carriage the curtains are carefully drawn, The city of Jeypore is the capital of a state of the and when they enter or leave it they are entirely en- same name which covers fifteen thousand square screened from outside gazers. This reet is at this miles, or about twice the area of Massachusetts. The moment occupied by girls who may be photographed; statehas a population of nearly three millions, and ladies are photographic impossibilities, but it is need- this city about one hundred and fifty thousand. The less to say that in India, as in all countries, not all name is derived from the famous Maharajah Saiwa women are ladies. Jey (or Jaya) Sing II., who founded it in 1728. It is not difficult to see that the driver is conscious . Around us on all sides except thesouth are rugged, of being photographed. The fantastic tilt of the tail, fort-crowned hills. A crenellated masonry wall with ’ the spread of the feet and the lordly toss of the head seven gates encompasses the entire city. “Jeypore is the pleasant, healthy capital of one of PoQltba 85. Map 1 POrItlon 86. Map 1

~-. JEYPORE 283 dogj INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

the most prosperous independent states of Rajputana, thingthere offered for sale. You can discover two and is a very busy andimportant commercial town women with baskets on theirheads; those women with large banks andother trading establishments. represent animportant occupation in Indiaand in It is the center of native manufactures, especially that othereastern countries, that of dung-gatherers. This of many kinds of jewelryand of colored, printed occupation is followed chiefly by low caste women and cloths and muslins. The enamel work done here is children;dung is gathered in the handsfrom the

the best in India, and the cutting and settipg of gar- streets, placed in those baskets, carried to the miser- J netsand other stones found in the state is alarge able homes of the gatherers, beaten into flat disks and branch of industry. The crowded streets and bazaars stuck overthe sides of buildings to dry.When dry are most lively and picturesque. The city is remarka- it constitutes the universalfuel of the lower classes. ble forthe width and regularity of itsstreets. It is There are dung-bazaars in every village, and in large laid out in rectangular blocks, and is divided by cross cities the dung-fuel market is a great and busy thor- streetsinto six equal portions. The main streets are oughfare, where one can see this unusual commercial one hundred and eleven feet wide and are paved, and product in great stacks as we see cordwood in west- the city is lighted with gas.” ern countries. From this street you can judge why Jeypore is so As photographic art is deficient in chromatics, let often likened toEuropean cities-its width, its side- me explain to you that many of these stucco buildings are somewhatgaudy in rose and yellow tints,not I walks, its lamp-posts, and even its buildings in many places have a semi-western character. Yet while some common inother Indian cities. Noticethe ascent to aspects are western, othersas you will observe, are a second floor fromthe sidewalk-r‘d butnot in- decidedly oriental. You see once morethe inter- convenient. You notice here as elsewhere inIndia, mingling of people and sacred cattle; five or six can and, indeed, inall the Orient, the tendency of the be seen within a short distance, alsotwo donkeys- human being to squat, erz hunkers, which always seems the latter are not sacred like the cattle, but they fra- to me to denote a shorter lapse of time since the ad- ternizequite familiarly with pedestrians andabout vance from four-pedal supports to two,! the stalls of the street vendors. Observe thatrange of high hills at thenorth; Although there is a slight resemblance to western it almostsurrounds the city as already mentioned. cities in walks and width of street, it is only in that Before we leave Jeypore we shall follow a street east- respect; you will see the always-present phases of ward through the city to those hills, to v’isit a family extreme poverty and squalor among the lower classes. of homogeneal ancestors. On those stands articles of food and native sweetmeats In another important street there is a curious and are offered for sale; everything eatable is exposed to fantastically constructed palace which every visitor to theconstant storms of dust raised in thestreet, and Jeypore goes to see, and which every account of the no European would ever dareto eat or drink any- city mentions ; to it we will next go, that we may see Fudtlona6. mspl Porltko 86. hp1 284 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE J EY PORE 285 for ourselves whether there is really anything about it worthy of so much attention. It is called Hawa ported by sticks ; it is too often the case in all Orientdl Mahal or the Hall of thc Winds. countries that there are tawdry conditions side by side withthings costly andbeautiful. Position 87. The Palace of the Winds, Jeypore, There is a saying which I greatly cherish, which is beautifnl as a shell with pink and cream-colored very near to me in art and architecture and in most stucco other relations of life-it is this :-“There is nothing Thiscurious structure is famous; much has been beautiful but the truth.” Of course with a too literal written about it; much has been said about it. It is or a forced interpretation this would place all society very unusual in design, but it does not appeal to me; back inprimitive conditions; like other proverbs it I do not assertthat it is not beautiful--I only say must have a qualified application; a painted flower it does not please my individual fancy. It seems is not so beautiful as the flower itself; it may elicit like too greatan attempt at somethingout of the ouradmiration as a clever illusion, but it is not the usw&-an extraordinary design, a towering, top-heavy truth and can never be so beautiful as the flower it- ixade of windows, a fenestral conglomeration out of self. An enameled skin or a rouged cheek is not harmony with theannexment. The designs of the beautiful; veneered furniture is false; plated jewelry windows in themselves are beautiful, but there are too is false; the false can never take the place of the many-it is windows, and windows skyward,and real,either in people or in things.Stucco is not nothing else. If you were to peep behind those win- stone, it is an architectural illusion, and therefore can- dows you wouldfind nothing. It is just a rampant not be truly beautiful. wall of windows, an architecturalfreak. If the ma- Now, in glancing at the life in the street, you see terial had been stone or marble there would have a Rajput bullock-cart not unlike what we have seen been somewhat of character in the oddity of design; before, also an ekka, not unlike what we saw in the but it is built of stucco tinted with a pinkish white- mountains on the Cashmere road (Position 28) ; yozx wash. Was there ever beauty in stucco, or dignity in see the manwith his stock in trade carried on the whitewash ? I think when people call it beautiful they back of an unsanctified bullock, and a Rajput woman mean curious. It is a fantastic and elaborate structure bundled in grimyraiment and tinklingwith cheap gaudily decorated, and has been called Jey Sing’s chef jewelry. d’oeuvre-maybe chief caprice was meant. The crenellated wall at the right with peep-holes From this gaudy Palace of the Winds we will go in the windows suggests a zenana, for in most zenana to a palace with more claim to beauty and architectural ‘ buildings there are similar small openings in the win- merit, the palace occupied by the present Maharajah dows. There seem to be at the base of this portion of Jeypore. It is situatedin the midst of a charm- of the palace booths sheltered by pieces of canvas sup- ing garden one-half mile in length, adorned with foun- tains, fine trees, and flowery shrubs. Before one ‘can Po itloa 87. Map 1

’ p..ltk. 87. Map1 JEYPORE 287 286 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE enter the wonderful grounds of His Highness, he must the left there are a richly furnished modern building go to the English Residency and obtain a written per- forthe accommodation of the women of the palace mit. Of course, as in other parts of the world, some (theZenana), and alsoquarters for the courtiers. restrictions must be placed upon admission to such a East of the Chandra Mahal is the famous Jantra or place. Observatory,built by the celebrated astronomerJey Sing. We cannot at presentsee the observatory, but Position 88. A masteqiece of Oriental magnificence it is very curious and unlike ordinary modern build- -Palace of the Maharajah of Jeypore ings for that purpose; it is an open court filled with His Highness the Maharajah of Jeypore is one of odd and fantastic instruments constructed by Jey Sing the highest nobles and most progressive and enlight- himself. The instrumentshave gone out of repair ened princes in India, and we are now before his and even the uses of many of them are unknown; palatial home. among them are dials, gnomons, quadrants, etc., very This magnificent pile of decorated and beautified interesting to modern astronomers. In one part of the marble is in the middle of spacious grounds which palace therea is fully equipped printing office; in occupy one-seventh of theentire city. Thisis only I one of the many wonderful structures within the em- battled walls which encompass theseries of palace buildings. The great centralbuilding before which we stand is called theChandra Mahal-the main palace; it is alofty structure seven storieshigh and overlooks theentire park or garden. On theground floor is the Diwan-i-khas, or private Hall of Audience, built partly of white marble, and remarkable even in India for its noble simplicity. You can see with what a magnificent pavilion it is crowned. From that pa- vilion a wonderful outlook is obtainable, commanding not merely the entire citybut the country for miles around. In thebeautiful audience chamber ordurbar hall His Highnessentertains distinguished guests; inits center is a gorgeously decorated throne. Many of those windows are closed in with screens of marble lace-work that remind us of themarble screens in the Taj Mahal(Position 67). Near thisbuilding on

Porltlon 88. Map \ 288 INDIA THROUGI-I THE STEREOSCOPE GALTA 289 the palace grounds; there is a public gardenoutside the Galta shrine. You probably know that the monkey the city wall, which ranksas one of the finest in is one of the many sacred animals inIndia. About India. It embraces an area of seventy acres, was laid many temples they are trained to gather at certain out at a cost of twohundred thousand dollars,and a rendezvous to receive food from priests and visitors. now costs the Jraharajah fifteen thousand dollars an- There is a temple in Benares called the monkey nually for maintenance. Withinthe garden there is temple, because it is thehaunt of troops of these a well stocked menagerieand aviary, also a splendid creatures which are always allowed to remain un- art andindustrial museum. Thenthere are beyond molested;they are even pettedand fed untilthey the garden some excellent modern benevolent institu- seem to assume a sort of precedence and priority about tions-a fine hospital accommodates one hundred and the temple. In theeighteenth century the monkeys fifty patients. There is a handsome school of art for there became so numerous and pestilential that a pious teaching and reviving native branches of art and in- Hindu Raja was compelled to ask the government to dustry. A large college called theMaharajah Col- send a regiment of Sepoys to destroy them. At the lege opened in 1844 with forty pupils, and now has a present time, when monkeys become over-populous at daily attendance of over one thousand. It is con- Benares they are captured, placed incrates and de- nected with the University of Calcutta. ported tothe farther side of the Ganges. Notlong

I When, from our first position looking northward ago many crates had been thus filled for expatriation and had been carried a considerable distance by rail- along a principal thoroughfare (Position 86), we saw arange of hills at some distance outside the city, I way and, while thetrain was detained at a station, monkeys escaped and for many days re- said that later we would visit those hills towards the cargo of mained about. the itation doing much damage to eat- the east. One mile anda half fromthe city, at an elevation of threehundred and fifty feet, there is able goods in storage.Finally, a wily railway man smeared the freight cars with treacle; swam& mon- a place called Galta, with the shrine of the sun-god; of keys invaded the train, and while they were ravenously that is the place at which I promised that we should engaged in licking treacle, the train started suddenly, meet homogeneal ancestry. allowing no time for them to escape. Theywere Posìtìon 89. Sacred monkeys at Galta, near Jerpoze carried many miles into the heartof a great jungle and -fascinating even to those not inclined to wor- driven ship off. There are two species of monkey common to north- The building at the shrine of the sun-god I found ern India-the ordinary reddish brown, and a larger, unworthy of consideration, therefore, I have turned silvery coated variety called the lungoor or hoonimaun. my stereographicattention to a numerous simian Those before us are of the latter variety. They have family which assembles fromthe outlying hills and a black face and a fine silvery coat with a bearing of valleys at the call of one of the priests behging to Posltkn 89. m 1 Paltka 89. Msp 1

,” 290 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE GALTA 291 considerable dignity; these are held in high respect are now before you in the condition of Oliver Twist- by the Hindus. wanting more. Whetherthese are degenerate men There are several reasons given for the sacredness and women or otherwise, they certainly can show the of monkeys in the minds of the Hindus. A tradition averageundegenerate how to pose naturally for a exists that a great simian renderedimportant assist- photograph. ance to the Aryans tltlring their first invasion of In- These semi-human creaturesare much dreaded by dia, and, in conscquence, that the monkey-ally became the native women. In some places the natives have a deified and is now known as Hanuman, the monkey- curious method of “getting even” with their neighbors; god. The deified monkey was probably none other the person seeking revenge throwshandfuls of peas thana prognathous hero of those early times. The on the tile-roof of the house of the neighbor on whom more likely reason for paying hin1 honor is, however, he wishes to be revenged;the village monkeys soon because Hindus believe the monkey to be a degraded discover the whereabouts of the peas, and before all type of man, that is, that man has descended from his are excavatedfrom among the tiles the house is high estate into the monkey-which is quitethe re- usually unroofed. verse of the occidental theory; but whether it be ascent While most Hindus venerate the monkey, there are or descent, we wili refer to the savants. They believe tribes who use it for food. I must include myself in that monkeys once were men and (Fryer says), that some of these tribes, as I have on more than one oc- on account of their laziness tails were added to them ; casion partaken of monkey-stew. I havefound it butit is not easy to see where any effective correc- sweet and tender, not unlike the flesh of the squirrel, tion for laziness could accrue from adding tails. Since butwhether it hadany flavor of human flesh, for they have once been men, the killing of one of them obvious reasons I could not tell. In Coorg, monkey- is regarded as a peculiarly grave crime. Crooke says soup is prescribed for sick and weakly people. In the sanctity of the monkey is an idea not confined to Brazil, far upthe Amazon, I saw an Indian woman theAryans. Some tribes have identified Hanuman clip tufts of hair from the flanks of a howling monkey, with the sun-god, and in this way the Hindus may be with which to make tea for her child who was suf- said to have adopted the monkey as a deity. fering from whooping cough. Temple monkeys like these are exceedingly fond of peas, and it is a custom for all visitors who may wish I have probably detained you long enough with our to see them assembled to carry alongquantities of peas. lungoor friends at Galta. We have one more place to The temple guardianhas a certain call which they visit before leaving Jeypore. It is an ancient city know; when this call is given, they scamper from lying five miles westward among the mountains-for every wood and mountainside forthe feast.These hundreds of years it was the capital of Rajputana. I monkeys you see now have been brought together in refer to the ancient city of Amber. this way. Theyhave just finished theirrepast and

Posltlon 89. Map 1 Porltka 89. Map 1 292 INDIA TIlROUCH THE STEREOSCOPE AMBER 293

Position go. The scene of dead splendors-Iooking have echoed with the clash of contending armsas across the ancient city of Amber to the mountaìn they have resounded with the glad hurrah of victors. fortress Even further back, when the great Coliseum was ring- To visit iIn1bcr it is necessary to obtain apermit ing with theshouts of theRoman populace, these from thcEnglish Residcnt in Jeypore. Sometimes an heights were the homes of victorious chiefs. clcpllant is providctl by the Xlaharajah to carry travel- The picturesquesurroundings of Amber are won- CI-sto this placc. derful. It is anatural fortress as well as ararely rh1l)er here was the ancient capital of Rajputam. beautifulsituation for aseries of palace-buildings. Jcyprc has been the capital for one hundredand The palaces at Gwalior are situated on a mountain seventy-eight years,but before Jeypore became the summit; here they are on mountain slopes overlooking capital, Amber was the capital for nearly seven hun- abeautiful lake andcharming valleys. Besides the tlrcd years. A tribe called the Minas wcrc establishccl natural defenses of the mountains, you see artificial hcrc about 967 A. D. In 1037 the place was taken walls of defense extendingto the summit of those by thc Rajputs, the most warlike people of northern rugged peaks. A beautiful lake, which mirrorsthe India. Ptolcrny, thc Greek geographer whose works palace on which we stand, is far below to our right. on geography constituted the chief authority for thir- Everyremnant of abuilding within sight is that of teen centuries, mentions Amber; and we know there- some once magnificent structure. It surelyhas been forethat it was a place of some importance seven- a city of palaces and a home of kings. The wall which teen hundred years ago. crosses the valley and reaches thehighest mountain An old palace, built by Man Singh in l600 and topis a powerful structurewith a central space for architecturallyranking second only tothe one you soldiers between the lines of battlements, and with saw at Gwalior (Position 72), stands on arugged towers at intervals. We cansee at the base of that mountain-side overlooking a patheticwilderness of long fortified mountain a mosque with two minarets; that, deserted ruins. We are standing now on one of the of course, shows the Moslem faith and rule. balconies of that old palace, looking down upon the The usual entrance to this valley is in a direction remains of ancient splendor whose glory. belongs to nearly opposite to that towards which we dre looking, the time when knighthood commenced in Europe, when andthrough a narrowgorge. The palace on which knights swore to be true to their trust as champions we now have our lookout is planted midway up the of God and the ladies; a time when the Crusades were slope of arugged and picturesquemountain, and, in progress.Centuries even.prior to those eventful from another point notfar away, Jeypore might be times in early history, these valleys were filled with life seen five miles away through the gorge by which .we and thrilling events. Rajputana was then in its feudal came. Thereis native grandeur in everydirection stage,and rival tribesand clans were constantly in -a grandeur which was defensive in time of war. bloody strifefor ascendency. These mountain-sides ' Travelerswho visit Jeypore never fail to reach Pmltloa 90. Mmp l -WB 90. ,mp1 . ,. .. 294 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CHITOR 295

the venerable ruins of this old capital. Many famous One might go on endlessly describing portions of the men have come here to stand where we stand, and to Man Singh labyrinth of palatial apartments,but I view this scene of desolation. Here is a description will leave you to imagine the charming vistas unseen from Murray’s Ha.nd-Book of some portions of the in other directions, and only present to you my old palace, on the portico of which we are now stand- Rajput guide, who sits by the rail of the portico and ing :-It is “entered by a fine staircase from a great pretends to con his small manual while I assay a courtyard, the Diwan-i-Am, a noble specimen of panorama of deserted Amber. Rajput art, with a double row of columns supporting 11;’ ’(! Iq a massive entablature, above which are latticed gal- Our next shift of position will be again southward leries. Its magnificence attracted the envy of Jehangir, for a distance of one hundred- and seventy-five miles , ..I and Mirza Raja,to save his great workfrom de- to Chitor, another old city in thestate of Mewar, struction, covered it with stucco. not far from Udaipur and one hundred and fifty miles To theright of the Diwan-i-Am steps is a small east of Mt. Abu, where we sojourned soon after leav- temple where agoat, offered each morning to Kali, ing Bombay. We will delay only for one view there. preservesthe tradition of a daily human sacrificein Chitor is an ancient city with many interesting land- the same spot in prehistoric times. On ahigher ter- marks of bygone splendor; it was once the capital of race are the Raja’s apartments, entered by a splendid thestate of Mewar; now Udaipur is the capital- gateway covered with mosaics and sculptures, erected andit is another remarkably situated city, but it is by Jey Sing, over which is the Suhag Mandir, a small quite impossible to visit all the wonderful places in pavilion with beautiful latticed windows. Through India ; that would make our itinerary unending.

this are a further marvels-a green and cool garden with fountains, surrounded by palaces brilliant with Position 91. Relics of a romantic past-mwer of mosaics and marbles. That on theleft is the Jey Victory (Hteenth century) and row oenotaphs Mandir, or Hall of Victory, adorned by panels of ala- at Chitor baster, some of which are inlaid, and others adorned Modem Chitor is little more than a walled village. with flowers in alto-relievo, the roof glittering with We are nowin a part of old Chitor which contains themirrored and spangled work for which Jeypore some traces of its ancient grandeur. Notfar from is renowned. Nearthe Jey Mandira narrow pas- herethere was once a powerful fortress on thetop sage leads down ta the bathing-rooms, all of pale of a mountain five hundred feet high and three and creamy marble. Above is the JasMandir, which a halfmiles in length;this mountain, like the one literally glows with bright and tender colors and ex- at Gwalior, was crowned with afortress and many quisite inlaid work, and looks througharches of palaces,while the ancient city spreadover the plain

carved alabaster and clusters of slender columns upon below. On the palace-crowned ridge stand two ancient , the sleeping lake andthe silent mountains.” towers, one on the east rampart and one on the west; Podtlon 90. hp1 296 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE CHITOH 297

the former is known as the Tower of Fame, the latter of departed kings and it is not improbable that some as the Tower of Victory. Theyare both wonderful arefuneral urns to some of thegreat numbers of structures, but we will consider only the one before devoted women martyrs who committed suttee rather us now, tllc Tower of Victory. than fall intothe han& of libidinous pursuers. If Fergusson says :-“To Kumbo, who reigned from records are trustworthy, the most appalling suttee in 1416 to 1468, we owe thistower, erected to com- theannals of Hinduhistory occurred hereabouts. memorate his victory over Mahmud, King of Malwa, Some time near the beginning of the fourteenth cen- in 1439. It is a pillar of Victory, like that of Trajan tury it is recorded that a Mohammedan emperor, seeing at Rome, but of infinitctly better tasteas an archi- the lovely face of thefavorite wife of theRana of tectural object. It has nine stories, each of which Chitor reflected in a mirror, decided he mhst possess is distinctly marked on the outside. A stair in the this uze phs ultra of feminine beauty; he captured the center leads to each story, the two upper ones being Rana, held him as a hostage and demanded the beau- open and more ornamentalthan those below. It tiful princess as a ransom. In apparent compliance stands on a base forty-seven feet square and ten feet with the demand, a veiIed litter was sent to the em- high,and is thirty feetsquare, rising to a height peror accompanied by seven hundred maids of honor. of one hundred and twenty-two feet, the whole being On arrival at the palace of Allau-ed-din, for that was covered with ornamentsand sculptures to such an the name of the Moslem Emperor, the litter was found extent as to leave no plainpart, while this mass of to be empty, and the seven hundred maids’of honor decoration is kept so subdued that it in no way in- proved to be armed warriors who rescued the Rana. terferes with theoutline or general effect. The old But Allau-ed-din was not to be balked so easily: He dome was injured by lightning,and a new one was laid siege to Chitor, and, when it became evident that substituted by H. H. Sarup Sing. The stair is much his desperate attempt was likely to prove successful, wider and easier than that in the Jain tower (on the the princess withall the ladies of the palace, seeing other side of the ridge) and in the inside are carvings the Rana and his courtiers being slain, rushed into a of Hindu deities with the names below. In thetop room alreadyin flames andwere burned to ashes. story are two of the four original slabs with long in- If this be true, we are near the place where occurred scriptions. The tower took seven to ten years to the greatest suttee sacrifice in the history of Hindu- build, from 1548 to 1558. On the road at the corner ism; and history and tradition both give the place of of the lower platform is a squarepillar recording a the cremation as near this Tower of Victory. sati in 1468, A. D.” The incidents inhistory which led tothe victory Southward again we take our way to a great city which this tower commemorates are both romantic and in the largest native state in all India. I refer to the tragic. You see cenotaphs and other memorials of the city of Hyderabad in the state of the same name, often dead between us and the Tower of Victory; those tell known as the Mizam’s Dominions. It would be -well

bMOB 91. &p 1 298 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE HYDERABAD 299 to refer to ourgeneral map of India to locate the as the distance in a direct line is eight hundred miles, place. To reach Hyderabad from Chitor involves a hut in choosing roads for elephant travelthe actual railway journey of six hundred miles. Hyderabad lies distance is over athousand miles. I saw the herd three hundred and fifty miles southeast of Bombay, on itsarrival at Agra,and talked with the elephant threehundred miles north of Madras, and onehun- attendants, who told me that in so long a march they dred and seventy-five miles west of the nearest point allowed the heavy beasts to rest for a fewdays at on the coast of the Gay of Bengal. The Nizam’s ter- intervals of a hundred miles. ritory is considerable larger than the state of Idaho, These particuIar elephants that we see now did or nearly as large as Prussia. It has a population of not attend the Durbar; for at the time when I made this over eleven millions, and the city of Hyderabad itself negative the Durbar elephants were still on their home- has a population of four hundred thousand. It is not ward march. These two have just come out from the a city in which to find wonderftll n~emorialsof by- great archway m the Ieft; they are being brought out gone times. AIthough nominally independent like in readiness to convey some traveler to Golconda- other native states, it has the usual watch-dog of Rrit- the world-famous Golconda of fabled wealth. YOU ish interests-the Resident. can see the kind of iaunting-car seating arrangement We must he satisfied with but one view, and,for for passengers, and, with the lumbering gait of the that, I will take you to the heart of the city and place elephant, the passenger will find it a jaunting-car and , II you on a principal thoroughfare where you may ob- ;ì, ?‘’ ! a jolting car. serve one characteristic scene in the capital and metro- But possibly yourattention is attracted to the re- polis of the Nizarn’s vast dominion. markablestructure over the street beyond. It. seems a combination of arch and mosque. It is an aspiring Position ga. fascinating glimpse Hyderabad, A of landmark in modern Hyderabad called the Char Minar. famons for embroideries, enamels, and lacquers You will remember that the word minalc is an abbrevi- Weare now inHyderabad looking north, every- ated form of the word minaret and char is Hindu for thing in sight is absolutely Oriental; this is “Pure four, so CharMinar denotes “the four minarets.” East.” In the shops, in the equipages and among these We are in the heart of Hyderabad, at the intersection people we see nothing European. of the Nizam’s Two of two streets ; each front of the square structure has state elephants have intruded athwart the street and an arch similar to the one towards which we are look- obstructed our view. The Nizam is a prince of great ing. Everyangle supports aminaret one hundred wealth and dignity and importance. He was in at- and eighty feet high; every face of the quadrangular tendance at the great Delhi Durbar and to that great base is one hundred feet. It was built in 1591 by Mo- national assembling of the princes he sent a large part hammed Kuli Kutub Shah to commemorate God’s of his great herd of elephants. They were driven the favorable answer to the prayers of holy men in time entire distance, the journey occupying several weeks, of a pestilence. It is the “scandal point” or the Poattian 92. Map 1 Porltlwm. mp l HYDERABAD 301

conda as a capital was deserted except as a fortress and Hyderabad became the capital. The wealth and power of the new capital under a Moslemdynasty began to arouse the envy of the great Mogul Emperors of the north. The growing power of the Nizam pro- ducedin the Moguls a feeling of insecurity. The Emperor Aurangzeb marched against and overthrew the Moslem reign and established in its place the Mogul line. At the present time a successor of that old Mogul dynasty rules this remnant of thegreat Mogul Empire.

Again we are ready for another itinerary south- ward so we mustsay farewell to the last branch of the Moguls; then a three-hundred-mile journey will take us to the great South Indian city of Madras, on the Corumanckl coast. Position 93. Substantial eleganoe of modern Madras -imposing Zaw Court BniZdìngs-dew eouth- west, from the bank I have taken you to an unusual place for our only view of Madras, the top of the New Bank Building. Do not mistake the tops of these modern buildings for streets and ground level. We are looking southwest; the harbor-all that there is of it-lies only a hundred yards to our left. We can almost see the water of the Bay of Bengal at our left in the distance. The well-known Madras surf is even now thrashing the sandy beach near by; but, although the stereoscope has good eyes it has not ears, so we do not hear it. Could we turn our view a few degrees towards the left, we should see Fort St. George one mile from us overlooking the sea. It was the original nucleus of the city.

MOM9-a Map 1 302 INDIATHROUGII TIIE STEREOSCOPE MADRAS 303

There have been times when all the world has the beach. Thereare here no great and wonderful heard of the terrible cyclonic devastation wrought on architectural palaces, tombs, towers or otherancient the beach near us. Madras is a great city of nearly land-marks to show you, but there are modern, up-to- half a million inhabitants ; including coastwise suburbs date institutions of every order-churches, hospitals, and private villas, it extends nine miles along the sea- colleges, museums and clubs, which will compare with front. A city without a harbor is likc a house without those of a similar character in other countries. a door, but Madras is withouta harbor. It is prac- Madrasranks as one of thehottest parts of the tically an inland city on the sea-coast. Notwithstand- empire. You would experience no winterhere, and iug this great commercial handicap, it is a great and in all likelihood you would find a necessity for, a con- rapidlyexpanding city. In late yearsa break-water stant use of the punkah. inclosing a half square mile of sea-room has been con- It was in andabout Madras that the French and structed at great expense; thiscontains a great pier Englishlong contended forthe mastery in southern a thousand feet in length, at which ships load and dis- India." Dupleix commanded the French and defeated chargecargoes in fine weather;but when thestorm theEnglish on several occasions. Finally the Eng- signal is hoisted all ships are compelled to leavethe lish discovered in a clerk called Bob Clive a military artificial harbor for the open sea. genius. This youth was subject to moods of dis- A charmingsea-front drive called theMarina ex- couragement and despondency. In one of these build- tends for many miles southward along the beach. The ings near us he had twice tried to shoot himself, but native portion of the city, called Black-town, lies near his pistol failed to discharge. Whenhe had once by, to our right. Clubs, hotels, and the European sec- become filled witha patriotic ambition toenter the tion all lie southwardalong the sea-front or nearit lists with the famousand victorious Dupleix, his in thedirection towards which we are looking. The despondency forsook him. He roserapidly infavor palace of theGovernor is in the line of our view andrank, soon proved morethan a match for the three miles distant, in a park-like area,shaded with formerly redoubtable French General, anddefeated all kinds of treesand shrubs and animated with shy I him. The Frenchwere obliged to retire to Pondi- groups of native deer. cherry,and Bob Clive savedsouthern India from You may easily judge, from those Law Court Build- French domination and became the famous Lord Clive. ings some distanceaway, what is thegeneral char- l acter of many modern public buildingsin Madras. Let now continuesouthward till we reach a l us These new Law Court Buildings show both Hindu and place where we can find something in architecture Saracenicarchitecture ; that on thefarther side of which the old inhabitants of southern India originated. i the group is the High Court Building, whose tower is During our journey I have alluded to a race inhabit- furnished with thelatest and best light-apparatus so ing the south country of Hindustan, a country called that it now takes the place of the old light-tower by *See page 355. I Podtfan 93. Map 1 PaltIon 93. M~B1 304 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE TANJORE 305

Dravida, and the people thereof Dravidian.* That of a stereograph to show the full height of the struc- people had, like thenorthern races, made wonderful ture, or that would give anything like a satisfactory progress in certain directions. They had a style of view of it. The entire surroundings are so filled with architecture peculiar to themselves and they left some all sorts of obstructions that stereographic positions extraordinary memorials to attesttheir achievements are impossible; therefore I can show you only the in their peculiar order. Between Madras and the ex- gopura or gateway. tremesouthern limit of India we shall see whatthe Within this gopura there isa court two hundred and Dravidians have to show the modern world. fifty feet square devoted to minor shrines and ts. places About half way between Madras and Cape Comorin of residence for temple and pagoda officials and care- our map shows Tanjore, Trichinopoly and Madura. takers. Beyond that court thereis a second gopura, First we will visit Tanjore, where we shall find tem- not so largeas the one before us; beyond the sec- ples quite different from anything we have seen in the ond gopurathere is a great court five hundredfeet north-temples in honor of Hindu gods and for Hin- in length by half that in width; within that, the great du worshippers, but in a Dravidian scheme of archi- pagoda stands. It is one hundredand ninety feet tecture. high, only forty-eight feet lower than the Kutb Minar at Delhi (Position 82). It is pyramidalin form and PositJon 94. Grrardian of Hindrr mysteries, sonth garnished with sculpturedfigures from base to top. west to gateway and sculptured temple towez This first gopura before us is ninety feet high, and, Tanjore ifyou imagine a hundredfeet added to its height, Our position isbefore an outer entrance gateway and conceive it as tapering more gracefully in pyra- to the Great Pagoda of Tanjore. .We are looking a midal form,with even moreextravagant sculptured little west of south. Madras is one hundredand decoration, you will have a good idea of the appear- eighty miles away behind us, and thirty miles to our ance of thepagoda itself. This Dravidianstyle right is Trichinopoly. Tanjore province is considered of . architecture rose duringthe reign of the Cholas or '.. thegarden of southernIndia. This city of Tanjore Tanjore kings, which was some time in the eleventh is on a level andfertile plain nearthe delta of the century A. D. Its striking general characteristics are Cauvery river. It contains a population of about sixty massiveness and the absence of curves; these towering thousand and its fame is owingto its wonderful pagoda gopuras are probably the most conspicuous features. and temples. Thegateway near us is only a tem- The first court beyond this gopura has notbeen used porary entrance to the main gateway called a gopura, for purposes of worship since when it was used which is a little beyond that low white entrance, Here 1777 by the French as a fortress and an arsenal. we shall have to be content with a view of this great I wonder if you can distinguish beyond the second gopura and not the pagoda itself, for the reason that gopuraa raised platform on which is a dark I cotdd find no position which would allow the taking object -__.-- almost between two white posts. That is a prodigious *S= Pages 338339. Porltlon 94. Mup i pbdtloa94, Mm1 306 INDIA TI1KOUGlI TlIE STEREOSCOPE TANJORE 307

tnonolithic figure of a bull, called “Nandi.” The di- the impression thatthere was but one such gigantic mensions of this Nancli bull are sixteen feet in length immolator, but there are many; every city of irnport- and over ten feet in height. He has been anointed for ance has its big holy wagon. We shall find one in a centurics 11ntil Ilc has a thick, black, glossy skin of street of Tanjore. incluratetl oil. Steevens humorously refers to “Nandi” in these words :-“I wish I could show you a picture Position 95. A Carof Jaganath, in whìch the Hhdu god Erishna rides, drawn worshippers, Tan- of him, forwords are mequa1 to him. In size he by. jore stands, or rather sits, thirty-eight hands two. His ma- terial is black granite, but he is kept so piously anointed Here is a Car of Juggernaut, and beside it a with grease that he looks as if he were made of memorial representation of one. The vehicle on the toffee. In attitudehe suggests a roast hare, and he left is a real, working, worshipful car. It is not, wears a half-smug, half-coquettish expression, as if however, what we may call a high-class car, for Tan- he hoped that nobody would kiss him.” jore is a small city and cannot afford an expensive Before theouter gateway we have a real tableau one. The car on theright is a stationary memorial zi~~rtt,showing mostly specimens of the Tamil race car built of brick coated with churnan or stucco. The easily recognizable by their habit of keeping the fore real Car of Juggernautstands at this place in the partof their heads closely shaven. The Tamils con- street by the car of masonry until a ceremonial oc- stitute one branch of the Dravidian aborigines of south- casion calls for its removal. ern India. They possess a rich and varied literature . The word Juggernaut is from the Hindu Jagannath and their language isspoken by fifteenmillion peo- or Jaganatha which signifies The Lord of The World. ple. Tamil is the language of the Karnatic, and is It is a name sometimes applied to Krishna, or to a spoken from Madras to CapeComorin, and also in very important incarnation of Krishna. The name is northern Ceylon. The Tamils have darker skins than also applied to a celebrated temple and town on the the Indians of Aryan descent, as you may judge from coast of Orissa; the same place is often called Puri the types here before us. or Poree. Jaganatha (various spelling), or Poree . is the most sacred Hindu temple in India. There is You surely have heard of the Car of Juggernaut or at Poree a huge and amorphous idol, which is little Jaganath. In these days we have cars of many kinds else than a heavy log with somewhat of the human -it is eminently an age of cars ; but none of the many form. This has been adopted as an object to repre- styles have acquired a fame so wide asthe car of sent Jagannath or Krishna, but at Poree (M Puri) Juggernaut; if then so famous, it is worth our while Krishna is worshipped ,as Vishnu. How this proxy to take one position forthe study of the car best worship is done I don’t know ; there is much of it in known to history. It being generally spoken of as Hindu and Brahmanícal worship. the Car of Juggernaut, I was from boyhood under Jagannath temple being the most important in all India, there is kept the most ponderous car of Jug- httkn W; M.p 1 Pmith W. IyI.pl TANJORE 309 gemaut in all the I-lindu world-much larger and more is claimed, originated with the Buddhist. Crooke costly and elallorate than the one near us. It is the says :-“It is among the Hindus of South India and Car of Juggernaut often mentioned in history and in the Jains that the custom of parading images of the metaphor. It is forty-five feet high and thirty-five gods is most common, and the practice dates from the feet square; it is supported on sixteen wheelswhich era of Buddhism. The procession of the image arc sevcn fcct in cliamcter. Jagannath has a brother of callcd Ealaram, and a sister Shubudra;the brother Juggernaut merely represents the Buddhist rite to and sister idols are carried in separate cars somewhat which his worship succeeded. The object of the cere- srnaIlcl-. The greatCar bearing this Krishna idol to monial is to bring the god personally in contact with ’ be worshipped as Shiva is drawn by forty-two hundred his worshippers, and by carrying him around the area profcssional pullers. I imagine that it wouldweigh over which he has control, to scare demons and other well up towards twenty tons. The hard road is deeply evil influences.” crushed wherever it is drawn. It wasbeneath the Juggernaut processional cars are seeminglycon- wheels of that monstrous car that devotees formerly structed after the fashion of the Juggernaut temple, threw themselves to be crushed as a self-immoIation which, as Hunter says, consists of four chambers, in honor of Jagannath, insuring thereby their entrance opening one into another. The first is the Hall of to Heaven. These fanatical self-sacrifices were stopped Offerings, where the bulkier oblations are made, only , .I. a smatl quantity of choice food being admitted into l,* 2 when Poree came under the control of the English. ;I IF ,:. At the time of thecar festival, thousands of pilgrims the inner shrine. The second is the Pillared Hall, for poured intoPoree from every part of India. I the musicians and dancing girls. The thirdis the visited this place at the time of a great festival, but Hall of Audience, in which pilgrims assemble to gaze upon the god. Thefourth is theSanctuary itself, it was not a car festival, and I found the great en- gine of worship taken apart and portions of it stored surmounted by a lofty conical tower. It is not dif- in different places; it is for that reason I am able to ficult to see a rude correspondence to the temple in bring before you only this car of smaller size here the plan of this car. The wheels and lower frame- at Tanjore. work are crude and clumsy, and the upper structure is of bamboo. The number of pilgrims visiting the Jagannath Each town and city manufactures its shrine at Poree is so great that the main road leading own Jagan- nath who is always bedecked with tawdry ornaments; thereto at a distance of fifty milesis readily known the whole upper frame is fluttering with gorgeous by the quantities of human bones strewed on the way. rags. Mr. Jagannath holds the conspicuousplace of It must, however, not he inferred that the numerous honor, and with thejolting over uneven streets deaths are from cases of self-immolation, but rather he , wabbles as though a trifle tipsy. Vast crowds always from accidents and sickness. line the course of the craning for a glimpse; for The practice of carrying images in processions, it car all who see are saved. If then you can imagine this PosiUaa 95. Map l Pos~oa98. Mmp 1 310 INDIA THROUGH TIIE STEREOSCOPE TRICHINOPOLY 311

car in a flutter of decoration, with priests and attend- the old citadel (a fort, arsenal and prison). The ants in every story, am1 a gilded inlagc of Krishna rock to the right is crowned by a mandapam or pa- peering through the bamboos and a line of one or two vilion, from which may be obtained the grandest out- 1111ndrctlII~CII tugging at ropes, you willhave a fair look on the plains of southernIndia. The ascent to idea of a small sized car of Juggernaut in worshipful that pavilion is made by a flight of two hundred and operation. ninety steps, in someplaces dangerously steep. In 1849 a great crowd had assembled to worship Ganesh A branch railway would take us from Tanjore west- in that white temple near the top. A panic arose ward to Trichinopoly, a distance of a little over thirty and in the stampede which followed five hundred lives miles. were lost. You will observe the building withthe Position 96. Trichinopoly,India, where &ord Clive pillars below the pavilion at the summit ; that is a once lived, northeast across the town to the old Shivite temple where on certain days the images of Citadel and famorrs Rock Shiva, Parboti, Ganesh and Subrahananya are wor- “Trichy” as this city is usually called by local Euro- shipped and carried in procession. peans, has a population of one hundred thousand in- The flights of steps begin amongst those buildings habitants. I havechosen this particular spot in at the base of the rock and pass up near thattree Trichinopoly on purpose to afford you the best gen- between the citadel and the Rock, and then towards eral view of one of the noteworthy objects in the city, the right through a passage to an exitnear the Shivite viz. :-the “Rock.” If you should ever visit the place temple. Onthe walls of the passage are sculptured in person, friends who had preceded you will be sure elephants. The frieze is covered with figures of men to say :-“Wereyou on the Rock at Trichinopoly?” and women; in the temple is a large Nandi Bull, but Although I cannot take you to the top for the won- not smeared with oil like the monster at Tanjore ; it derful panorama which it affords, we have from this is plated with silver at a great cost. Another stair- street a viewwhich should leaveyou with a correct case leads from the right near the top, to the pavilion

idea of its appearance. at-_ the~ top ; this is outlined by a niche to be seen at the That is a wonderful dome of granite rising from a right of the pavilion. levelplain extending twenty miles about us in every From the pavilxon or from any part of the upper direction. Its height is two hundred and thirty-six dome might be seen, not farfrom the base of the feet and that elevation is sufficient to dominate a vast Rock, the house in which Lord Clivelived, and in extent of level country. Southward another rocknot another direction theBath at the Judges’ Court in far away swells out of the fields one hundred feet in which Bishop Heber died. height; it is called the “Golden Rock.” It is curious The old citadel was once surrounded by a moat to find domes of granite in a level plain. The square thirty feet wide and twelve feet deep ; then the .entire building at the top of the Rock ahead on the left is Rock isencompassed by a wall eighteen feet high

Posltloa 96. Map l 312 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE TRICHINOPOLY 313

and five feet thick; besides this wall there is an in- fully formed an alliance with the Mahrattas, but Law- tervening space of twenty-five feet and then a second rence, with Clive as his powerful helper, defeated them wall thirtyfeet high and ten feet broad atthe top. all in 1752. Soon,however, affairs took an adverse Hurst in his Indika says :-“NO historian can tell the turn.The native princes and their army, who one full story of the blood that has been shed and the races day fought side by side withthe English, turned that have fought on this very spot.” against them the next day and fought with the French. Let us review a few of these deadly passages at Hardlya weekpassed in which the contestants did arms within the last one hundred and fifty years. In not change about in one way or another. This fortress 1736 the widow of the late reigning Raja admitted a of Trichinopoly was generally the center of the opera- few soldiers into the fortress in order to pay over a tions. The army was always victorious whichcould little tribute which they were collecting from various win this great height. parts of the Karnatic. They seized the place and the In November, 1753, theFrench made a nightat- queen was made prisoner. Soon the tide turned,the tack on the fort and succeeded in entering the outer Mahrattas captured the place in 1740, and killed Dost lines of the fortifications where there was a pit thirty Ali. Within ten years both the French and the Eng- feet deep ; into this many of the French soldiers fell; lish appeared upon the scene, and then it was a con- their screams aroused the English garrison and three flictbetween native rulersand foreign invaders. It hundred and sixty of them were taken prisoners. long lay in doubt which native prince would come out The final victory lay with the English. The Nawabs best, or whichpeople, the English orthe French, of the Karnatic, who had forfeited their claim to Eng- would go downin the general crash. The English lish sympathy because of their final allegiance to the took sides with the Mahrattas, and the French allied French, had to give up their great fortress in 1801. themselves with the rulers of the Karnatic, whose army Since this time the Union Jack of England has floated was led by Chanda Sahib. from the lofty granite crest.

In 1752 Major Lawrence, who led the English and 1 Aside fromthe castle or fortressand the widely -:! the Mahrattas, defeated the French and the Karnatic -1 known granite Rock there is little here that we have troops, marched up the hill and took their quarters in not seen before ; there are the ever-present stucco and thefortress. But the fighting was not over. The whitewash, as on that bazaar bordering the cemetery Karnatic soldiers and the French still lay near. Clive, where are a few memorials to distinguished dead ; and

who was Lawrence’s best fighter, went off with a body # there arethe familiar bullock-carts whichwe have of troops to deal another blow to the enemy. He was seenin the north. I pointed outthe distinguishing shot, but not fatally; though helost much blood, he mark of the Tamil at Tanjorethe shorn fore-lock;

was not too weak to give orders, to capture prisoners, here you see it again. I and to Secure a decisive victory to the English arms. But it was of short duration. The French had &il-

Posltloa 96. Map l .- I 314 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE SERINGHAM 315

Great Temple of Seringham where we may obtain a severe and good tastethroughout. Its date, for- tout ensemble of the Dravidian plan. tunately, is perfectly well known, as its progress was Position 97. Northeast to gate towers of Einda stopped by its being occupied and fortified by the TempZe, at Seringham, near Trichinopoly, where French during our ten years’ struggle with them for ìdoWjewe1~are worth millions the possession of Trichinopoly; and, if we allow fifty We are looking from the terrace of an unfinished years for its progress, even this would bring the whole gateway in the approach tothe great temple of within the limits of ’the eighteenth century. Seringham. Our line of vision includes a portion of The other three gopuras of this enclosure are in the the great structures within the vast temple area, but same style, and were commencedon the same scale, even at this distance the angle of view does not com- but, not being so far advanced when the work was prehend the full space occupied by the temple and its stopped, their gate-posts project above their walls in subsidiary buildings. You can see between us and the a manner that gives them a very singular appearance, first gopura two encompassing walls ; the first wall is and has led to some strange theories as to their design. twenty-four hundred and seventy-five by twenty-eight Looked at from a distance, or in any direction where hundred and eighty feet, and it was originally in- the whole can be grasped at once, the fourteen or fif- tended that there should be a gopura on each side; the teen great gate-towers cannot fail to produce a cer- space within thisouter wall is filled up with native tain effect, but even then it can only be by considering shops. The second crenellated wall includes within them as separate buildings.” its area dwelling places for priests and officials of the From the portion of this temple here in view, and temple. those gopuras never completed, one may judge of its Fergussonin describing this temple says :-“The extent had the entire plan been brought to completion. northern gopura, leading to the river and Trichinopoly, At this distance we cannot study the wonderful measures one hundred and thirty feet in width by one sculpture and detail. (We shall study details‘at our hundred feet in depth. The opening through it meas- next stopping place, Madura.) The stones in some of ures twenty-one feet six inches and twice that in those gateway arches are enormous monoliths-one height;the four jambs or gate-posts are each of a is twenty-nine feet, seven inches long; four feet, five single slab of granite more than forty feet in height, inches broad, and about eightfeet thick. You will and the roofing slabs throughout measure from twen- notice that these towering structures diminish in size ty-three to twenty-four feet. Had theordinary brick towards the central one which is called the vimanah pyramid of the usual proportion been added to this, or adyturn. Into that central shrine none but believers the whole would have risen to a height of nearly three are allowed to enter; it is surrounded by a court of hundred feet. Even asit is, it is one of the most a thousand pillars, each pillar a, granite mcmolith imposing massesin southern India, and besides- eighteen feet in height. Within the inner court is a perhaps because it never was quite finished-itis in mandapam or pavilion containing the treasury of Pomltlon 97. Jhp 1 MADURA 317

jewels. Among the jewels are two ornaments of dia- gateways. The highest of these gateways. is one hun- monds ancl emeralds, and one of diamonds and rubies. dredand fifty-two feet. The others are only a trifle One of these is valued at thirty-five thousand rupees. less. There are idols of gold studded with jewels. Among The most wonderful feature of these nine towering the many costly ornaments there is a gold bowl worth gopuras is the amount of fine sculpture necessary to over eleven thousand rupees. There are countless other fill up the four faces of nine gateways to such a height, idolatrousextravagancies within those courts, and and with life-size figures of all the saints andgods almost universal poverty under those stucco roofs ex- of Hinduism, many Qf them oft-repeated to portray tending in every direction. mythological events connected therewith. Crooke says :-“Reduplication is .the keynote of Hindu art” ; Butthe marvelous elaborationin these Dravidian and I am sure if we could go carefully over all the monuments we must see near at hand. Another hm- figures on these gateways, and note how many times dred miles southward will take us to Madura, the capi- the whole Hindu pantheon appears and reappears in tal of the old Padyan kingdom, a large and busy city thesemountains of sculpture, you would agree with of nearly one hundred thousand people, and contain- him. It is a veritable stack, over a hundred and fifty ing some of the most remarkable temples in Hindustan, feet high, of gods, goddesses and other sculptured fig- or indeed in the world. In ancient times Madura was ures. I made anattempt to count the figures on a famed as a seat of learning; it was the Regio Pan- singleface of thatgopura at our left. If my hasty dionis mentioned by Ptolemy. Nowit is celebrated calculation should approximate accuracy, there must be for its wonderful temples. well-nigh a thousand life-size figures on a sin- Position 98. Inooaceivable elaborationand splendor gle gopura; nine gates would givenine thou- of Madura’s HinduTemple-two of it8nine sand statues-if I may calf them such;and the pagodas figuresrepresent only a portion of thecarving As atrain approaches Madura, thetraveler sees, on the gateways ; and the nine gateways represknt only piercing the sky, many dark towers. Here now in the a fraction of the fine sculpture on the inclosed temple heart of the city we find the marvelous aggregation of and other related structures. Much of the carving is structures, famous throughout the world as the Tem- said to be the finest in southern India. ples of Madura. We are in a street where we have a Most of the temple in its present condition was con- view of two of the nine gopuras which compose the structed by a great ruler called Tirumala Nayak to- wonderful series. We are near enough to see some- wards the beginning of the seventeenth century. Tiru- thing of the infinite detail, the inconceivable elabora- mala was thegreatest of the kings of Madura,. He tion, in the creation of nine of these gopuras or door- ruled thirty-six years and his reign was a golden period ways tothe innershrines. We also observe a sec- for his kingdom. A mile or two from this great tem- tion of one of the temples within the nine stupendous Poeltkns 97-98. Map 1 ;318 INDIA THROl!C;H TIlE STEREOSCOPE MADURA 319

1)le is a palace almost as famous as the terlq.de, also builders passed away, until a later western civilization built by this enterprising ruler. exhumed the great monuments of a great past. There isone part of the templecalled the Sahas- Let me here use some part of a less generalized ac- rastarnball Mandapam (pavilion), or Hall of a Thou- count from Murray’s Hand Book of Ilzdia; speaking of sand Pillars, because it contains one thousand granite, the temple he says :-“It consists of two parts, on the monolithic pillars, and it is not their number so much east a temple to Minakshi, ‘the fish-eyed goddess,’ the as their nlarvelous daboration in carving that has made consort of Shiva; and one to Shiva, here called Sun- this pavilion the wonder of all who have seen it. dareshwar, on the west side. The entrance is by the And what would you think to find a portion of that gate of Minakshi’s Temple, through a painted corri- wonderful pavilionbricked up to furnish a space to dor about thirty feet long, which is called the Hall of storegrain for the use of the temple?-Suchis the the Eight Lakshmis, from eight statues of that god- l incongruity of Hinduism, or I might say Orientalism; desswhich form thesupports of the roof on either everywhere one will find the highest art and beauty side where various dealers ply their trade. and costliness associated withfilth, dilapidation, mis- On the right of the gateway is an image of Sub- placement or disorder. This is true, I think, of all rahrnanya, one of Shiva’s sons, otherwise called Skanda 1 Oriental countries, save Japan. Confirmatory of this 1 ’ or Kartikeya, theHindu Mars. On- theleft is an ,;j charge, let me state what I omitted stateto when y: Y image of Ganesh. The gateway leads to a stone corri- we were before the most beautiful building in the dor with rows of pillars on either side. The corridor, wholeworld, the Taj-that, not two hundred yards before passing the gateway, is called the Ashta Laksh- away, on the bank of the, Jumna, there is a burning mi Mandapam, and the second corridor the Minakshi ghat, from which stifling odors of burning human Nayakka Mandapam, having been built by Minakshi . flesh constitute the incense about that peerless shrine. Nayak, Diwan of a ruler who. preceded Tirumala. Thereare too much equality and democracy when Some of the pillars of the temple have for capitals the cows and monkeys are on an equality with and some- curved plantain-flower bracket so general at Vijayana- a of times cut above “the image God.” It is these in- gar. This is said by some to be the Hindu cornucopia. . congruous relations between things beautiful and costly At the end of one of the, corridors, one hundred and and their opposites that always seem so repugnant to sixty-six feet long, is a large door of brass, which has the traveler from the west. These conditions are stands to hold many lamps that are lighted at night. brought painfully to mind when one sees Tirumala’s . . . Close by is a quadrangle with a teppa Kulum beautiful mandapam turned into a storage room for (tank). This tank is called Swarnapushpa-karini or grainand many otherparts under a corresponding Patramarai, ‘Tank of the Golden Lilies.’ ” Another desecration. This condition of affairs undoubtedly did curious feature of the place is “a little chamber built prevail in Tirumala’s time. The same was true of not by Queen Mangammal, who was seized and starved to Egypt, Greece and other countries after the great dea.th by her subjects about 1706 A. D., food being Posltka 98. MIID 1 bltkrr 98. m(r9 I 320 INDIA ’rmouC;Il TIW STEREOSCOPE MADURA 321

placed so near shc could see and slncll but not touch You have before you some of thepillars in the it. A statue of her lover, the Brahman Achchaya, is facade of that part of the temple called the Choultrie; on the west side of the tank, and on the ceiling there is these present to the eye an evidence beyond gainsay his portrait opposite to one of the Queen. Round the of what is contained within those nine gateways. In tank runs an arcade. the matter of artistic work and patient toil, is there not ‘‘On the north ancl east sides the walls of the cor- as much here to wonder at as in thePyramids of ridor are painted with representations of the most Egypt? And this is merely a small appendage of the famous pagodas in India; from the south side a very vast aggregate; this great hall was also built by Tir- good view is obtained of the different towers of the urnala, who built all the later portions of the temple. gopuras. On the northwest side is the belfry, with an It is three hundred and thirty-three feet in length, and American bell of fine tone.” one hundred and five in width. The gate-tower by the l Choultriehas doorposts of single blocks of granite From this comparatively unobstructed view of two sixtyfeet in height. It required twenty-two years to gateways, you may deduce afair conception of the build and cost five millions of dollars-I mean this one nine ; it is necessary that you should obtain at least one hall alone. interior view that will help you in some measure to It is related that when this wonderful structure was ’i understandthe many wonderful places within these finished the king brought his queen, a princess of the

ri I . gatesand walls. You see I amconstantly complain- 4. house of Tanjore, to see and wonder at his achieve- l’ ; ,; ing, in our itinerary, of our limitation to one hundred ment. The queen hadoften boasted of her father’s positions, but I have made stereographshere of the greatness; the king asked her, as she looked upon this Tank of the Golden Lilies, of the Hall of a Thousand wonderfulstructure, if herfather had anything like Pillars,the Choultrie and other chief thingsin this it. “Like this? Why,the sheds in which my father temple. One glimpse, however, you must have now to keeps his cattle are finer,” replied the conceited queen. stir up your imagination;therefore wewill take The king threw his dagger at her producing a wound another position beforecorridora showing some which causedher death. After twenty-two years of spirited figures which form a line of pillars. labor and an expenditure of five millions, it was surely a heartless snub, to say nothing about a lie, and it cost Position gg. Grotesque fancy and patient skill of the queen her life. Hindu sculptors-pìllars of the Temple, Madnra Six of these wonderful pillars are Yali, which is the You have heard so much and maybe you have read name of a conventionalized lion entering much into SO much about wonderful detail, about elaboration of architectural structures in southern India. These lions sculpture, about carving and all that, that you may sus- alternate with figures of the Pandu brGhers. The first pect extravagantfancy or verbal exaggeration, but figure is that of Arjuna,the great archer, with his surely this view will remove any such suspicion. famous bow, and beyond that first lion is Bhihha with n.p l Podtion 99. Mop 1 irorltkn 99. 322 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE IWMISSERAM 323

his club; other brothers represented are not just now Ceylon. At Madura we were within one hundred and in view. fifty miles of Ceylon and about the same distance from In and around these bewildering places are flocks Cape Comorin, theextreme southern end of India. of sacred doves, and great live elephants are swinging There is an island lying between Ceylon and the south- lazily at their tethers. A small contribution would en- ern end of thegreat peninsula, called Paumbenor title you to ajourney about the labyrinth of temple Manaar Island, in the Straits of Manaar. It forms a buildings on the back of one of those temple pets. In part of a shoal which in old geographies was called the central hall near the exityou would find great num- Adam’s Bridge, almost connecting Ceylon ‘and India. bers of vendors of all sorts of trashy articles and dust- On this Island of Paumben or Manaar is the Temple covered, greasy sweetmeats. You wonder why such of Ramisseram or Rameswaram. There is achannel conditions are allowed in the midst of miracles of art in the shoalthrough which moderate sized steamers andarchitecture, which, if inEurope or America, can pass ; you see therefore that Adam’s Bridge is not would be guarded with scrupulous exactness and vigi- in practicable condition; so to reach the island one lant care;but the West will never understand the must either take a small sailing craft from the India East, and that is why we cannot understand this con- mainland, or a steamerfrom Colombo. Going from dition of things. Madurait is easier totake a train to the nearest The Choultrie of which these pillars form a part point on the Indian shore, whence a sail of a few miles consists of four rows of columns, aboutthirty in a leads to the Island of Paumben, a low sandy plain, row, no two alike, andall richly carved in allegoric eighteen miles long and two and a half wide, covered and historical designs. It was built for the reception with acacia trees. A drive of seven miles from the of the presiding deity, who consented to leave his dark boat-landing would bring us to our last position in the abode and pay the king an annual visit here on con- great Ramisseraan Temple. dition that he would build a hall worthy of his divinity, and in which the king and his courtiers could be suit- Position zoo. CorHdor seven hundred feet long, ìn ably entertained. the splendid granìte Temple of Ramimerem, We cannot here takea third position to see the sweep Patrmben Island and majesty of the great central corridor sculptured We are here in the hundredth andlast position of our from end to end; but in our next and last position I itinerary, in the southcorridor, looking east, inthe will show you a corridor which was built at about the wonderful temple of Ramisseram. We are one hun- same time, and which corresponds in design andin dred miles southeast of Madura; onehundred and elaboration of sculpture with the Choultrie. eighty miles directly north of Colombo, and about one hundredand forty northeast of Cape Comorin. This The corridor to which I refer is in a great temple on is one of the most sacredshrines in Xndia-for the an island lying between the southern end of India and island belongs to .India and not to Ceylon. The island

Porltloa 99. Map 1 Posltbm too. *p 1 324 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 1 RAMISSERAM 325 is inhabited by Brahmans and their followers who are temple which should exhibitall the beauties of the supported chiefly by the revenues of the temple. The temple is nearthe northern shore on slightlyrising Dravidian style in their greatest perfection, and at the ground, in a quadrangular enclosure six hundred and same time exemplify allits characteristic defects of design, the choice would almost inevitably fall upon fifty-seven by one thousand feet. It is great in area, that at Ramisseram. In no other temple has the same but its elevation is less than that of other temples we have visited, its greatest height being one hundred and amount of patientindustry been exhibited as here. twentyfeet, while theentrance gateway is one hm- . .~. The temple, its ceremonies, and its attendants are maintained from the revenue of fifty-seven vil- dl-cd feet. It is built mostly of a dark, hard limestone, andtradition declares that it was built by one Raja lages, yielding an annual income of about f4,500 Sekkarar of Kandy and with stone brought from Cey- t ($22,500). lon. “The centra1 corridorieading from the sanctuary is adorned on one side by portraits of the Rajas of The walls everywhere as you see here, are a maze of J sculpture and statuary. This corridor is seven hmdred I Ramnad in theseventeenth century, and, opposite them, 4 of feet in length and this is only one of many. The nave their secretaries. Even they, however, would be t tolerable, were it not that within the last few years of St. Peter’s is six Imndred feet ancl no13e of the great they been painted with a vulgarity that is incon- English cathedralsover five hundred feet. The cen- have tral corridor, if not interrupted by a central quadrangu- ceivable on the part of the descendants of those who buiIt this fane. Not only they, however, but the whole lar court, would be over eight hundred feet in length. of the architecture has first been dosed with repeated The glory of Ranlisseranl is its corridors ; four thou- of as sand feet of these grand galleries are from thirty to coats whitewash so to take off all the sharpness of detail, and then painted with blue, with green, red forty feet in width and nearly twenty-five in height. and yellow washes, as to disfigure and destroy The ceiling is formed of huge monolithic slabs often so its forty feet in length, effect to an extent that must be seen to be believed. Nothing can more painfully prove the degradation to This gallery space in every direction is covered with which our system has reduced the population than this the richest carving in endless variety of design. It t profanity. No upper class, and consequently, no re- is a matchless example of the Dravidian style. This is finement, remains ; and the priesthood, instead of the corridor which I likened. to the central 11all of the now being high-bred and intellectual Brahmans, must be Choultrie at Madura. It has been estimated that this sunk into a state of debasement from which nothing one corridor of Ramisseram would cost an amount can probably redeem them.” equal tothe entire cost of theChoultrie which was Is it possible to conceive of a greater or more $5,000,000. Four thousandfeet of galleries in that un- pardonable desecration this;that these endless ratio would cost something like $30,000,000. than walls and ceilings, decorated with exquisite hand-craft, Fergusson says :--“If it were proposed to select one extending altogether nearly one mile, and representing Positlon 100. Map 1 326 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

in time, decades and generations, and multiplied mil- lions in money, should be smeared and defaced by the meanest and most ignoble of all industrial solutions- whitewash ? This ruinous and desecratedcondition &AND INDIA of the woslderful monuments of a great past is rnani- TE23 OF fest in all parts of the country. Even many princes of The Asiatic continent is so much larger than other grand divisions of the earth-much larger than Afri- great wealth today seem to care less for the preserva- ca, four times as large as Europe, and exceeding in tion of the marvelous achievements of their superior area North and South America combined-that maps ancestors than for showy palaces and gilded elephants. made on the same scale would be impracticable on ac- That which has been done in restoration and preserva- 1 count of their size; consequently, they are made on tion we must credit chiefly to English initiative. a greatly reducedscale in school and other books; peoplein their casual reference to a map ever Could our long itinerary of one hundred places have Few consider the scale on which it is made. This I have a grander goal than this noble fane, on the historic always found to be a difficulty with schoolatlases, causeway over which-according to tradition-our first where maps of the United States, Europe, Asia and parents passed as refugees from Paradise Lost to a Africa are on pages of the same size, while on dif- Paradise sought in Lanka the Resplendent? ferent scales. The matter of relativesize deduced I from different scalesis a little too occult forthe pupil and a little too tedious to leave a permanent im- This is our last position and our long journey is at pression on the ordinary adult. an end. Here we are surrounded by waters traversed Neither do the degrees of latitude and longitude by Sindbad the Sailor on hisvoyage to Ceylon, the covered by a country give an adequate idea of its ex- Island of Serendib. From the gilded dome of Ramis- tent, for degrees of longitude vary with every degree warn over our heads, India’s“coral strand” could of latitude, and to many readers a degree of either has little significance, not knowing the number of be descried gleaming in the rays of the setting sun, miles in a degree. While I might state that the great while from the eastward not far away blow the “spicy empire of India extends over about twenty-eight de- breezes” of Ceylon. grees of latitude and about the same of longitude, and embraces an area of one and a half million square miles, you will understand its size better if I outline a corresponding area in our own country :-A line formed by the RockyMountains and the boundary betweenMexico and the United States, continued to a point a little south of Yucatan, and another line from Maine to the same point, wouldenclose a tri- angular section nearly the same in shape and size as the three-cornered peninsula of India. And, again, if we take the entire population of the United States-eighty millions-and multiply by four, we shall have the population of India. If we wish to build up a comparative Indian empire in the United 3 28 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE LAND OF INDIA 329 States, we must lm-

1 The exact limits of the range are not easy to define, do withoutthe Indus, the Ganges, theBrahmaputra In some places it spreads north and south over three andtheir tributaries, whose perennial supplies are hundred miles in width;at other places itnarrows from the snowy storage of the Himalayas. The coun- to one hundred miles, so that an average width of one try would be depopulated. What would have been the hundred and fifty or two hundred miles willbe not fate of Egypt in the past or what would it be in the far amiss; and that part of the range which may be present,except for the moisture which has been in- considered as forming the northern boundary of In- l tercepted, held, andthen re-distributed throughthe dia may be estimated at two thousand miles in length, generous Nile, from the mountains of eastern Africa ? not including the Hindu Kush. She would be one with the desert by which she is II theAt eastern end of thisvast and impassable bar- hemmed in on either side. As the Himalayas are the 1- rierthere is a junction with Burmeseranges which highest mountains in' the world, so are they the great- extend north and south; and at the northwest, where est condensers of clouds and moisture, as shown by therange is continuous with the Hindu Kush,there the amount of precipitation along their seaward fronts. , are varioussouthward offshoots, chief of which are It is not uninteresting to note where in connection the Sulaiman Hills which extend three hundredmiles with the Himalayas is the greatest rainfall in the en- southward through the Punjab; thence several lower tire world; so if you will turn to the accompanying ranges continue through Baluchistan to the sea. When general map of India, you will find indicated the city we note this stupendous mountain wall on the north- of Dacca northeast of Calcutta; one hundred and thir- west, north, and northeast,from sea to sea, werec- ty-five miles northeast of Dacca there is a hill-station ognize thestrong natural defenses of theempire called Cherra Punji, at an elevation of between four against her most likely enemies. Before firearms came and five thomand feetand on the Cossyah Hills. into use, walls were the most common and relia- This is where the monsoon rains first strike the range, ble means of repelling the attacks of an enemy. Walls andwhere the averageannual rainfall is five hun- were always aroundthe ancient cities. The Chinese dredand twenty-three inches, or over forty feet. In built theirnorthern frontier; and still mountain 1861 there was here a fall of eight hundred and five fortresses are looked upon asthe most impregnable inches (sixty-seven feet), enough, as Hunter says, to of intrenchments,and mountain elevations as in- drownthree-storya house. Here all the pluvian vulnerable and inexpensive forts. ' forces seem to concentratetheir energies to make a Thus we seewhat a mighty cncehte naturehas record for the imperial range, as well as a record of reared around the land approach to India, a stronger generosity in the irrigation of the arid plains. defense thanthe 370,000 soldiers whom England The Himalayas consist of twoirregularly parallel maintains chiefly to defend thisnorthern border. ranges with the table-land of Thibet north of them. These formidable mountain walls serve not only as The dip between the ranges is the source of the two barriersagainst the enemy, but have an even more great river systems, that of the Indus and that of the importantpurpose as reservoirs of theriver system Brahmaputra, which arehere scarcely fifty miles which irrigatesand fertilizes theentire country. , apart and in analmost unexplored region in the trough Mountains, especially if rocky and unproductive, are between the two ranges of the Himalayas. The rivers looked upon as so much waste land; thisis a com- take opposite courses, each of about eighteen hundred mon mistake. Whilethey may sometimes be disas- miles anddischarge their waters into the sea fifteen trous storm-producers, they are at the same time, the hundred miles apart. The Brahmaputrahas pierced chief makers of streams, and the streams are the im- therange far eastwardnear Burma, and the Indus portantirrigators of the plains. What muid India ', THE LAND OF INDIA 333

of the people. This is an error; while it is truly said thatit supplies thegreater part of the food of the Where these great rivers found a passage through human race, it is not thestaple article in the food the rocky \-;dis at the Io\vest levels, so clit1 the earliest supply of theIndian people. Rice can be raised ad- foreign migrators and ir~vaders; the principal passes vantageously only in the low-lands andriver valleys are at the northeast and the northwest. Nearly all the wherethere is an ample water source, it being es- immhg armies have cntcred India from the north- sentially a water cereal. Much of India is tableland r~stmtl by thediffercnt passes in that direction. and insufficiently watered for rice production. We are Here is the well-knotvn Khaiber Pass so carefully told by those \vel1 informed thatthe many kinds of g1artlcd at all times by theEnglish. TheKuranl i millets and pulses are the staple food grains for the Pass, the Gwalari Pass and the famous Bolan Pass masses; and this one readily believes when hetravels - are a11 south of the KhaiberPass in therange run- over the country and sees the universality of those ning sotltlnvard in the northwest border. These passes crops. Riceis the chief cropand consequently the have been importact gateways during conflicts be- main article of diet in the Ganges delta,where it tween the Ameer of Afghanistan and the English, ancl is claimed thereare nearlya hundred different vad 011 account of the Ameer's intrigues with the Russians. 'rieties. This region is low and level, andone seems With Baltlchistan undercontrol of theEnglish, and to pass through interminablestretches of rice-coun- the Amer under an annual $600,000 friendship sub- try-a sort of archipelago of rice-fields bordered by sidy, this frontier for the present is undisturbed. yellow and green'walls of feathery bamboos. Jute is produced mostly in the delta of the Gan- PRODUCTS gesand the Brahmaputra ; tea, coffee and cinchona amongthe lower mountains andfoot-hills; tobacco, One can scarcely believe, that, with so vast a popu- fromthe Himalayas to Cape Comorin ; indigoand lation, India can have uncultivated 140,000,000 acres sugar-cane, in every part of the low country. The of cultivable land. Besides feedingher own teem- mango isthe apple of India. It is greatly esteemed ing millions, in J903-4 she exported tea to the value by many;others tell us, witha grave shake of the of $28,000,000 with fully $38,000,000 wlorth of wheat, head, that the mango season and the cholera season $63,000,000 in rice, $70,000,000 worth of jute,and coincide. Books tell thatIndia isfamous for its $115,000,000 in manufactured goods. In the same year fruits;there are some delicious littlebananas; and her exports exceeded her imports by $220,000,000. there are guavas, durians, custard-apples, loquats, Thereare few kinds of crops not raised in some lemons, bread-fruit and jak-fruit and many other part of India. Her extremes of latitudeand varying novelties in the fruit line, but if our grapes,pears, altitudes aflorcl suitable conditions for both tropical peaches, apples, strawberries, etc., had to be sup- and northern products. People oftenforget that the planted by these Indian fruits, I would go into mourn- higher altitudes correspond with more northern zones ing immediately. I am personally somewhat skeptical in vegetable production as well as in climatic condi-. about the wholesome effect of tropicalheat both tions. Wheatgrows in the valley of the Narbada in on fruitsand vegetables. I even somehow prefer peo- central India; but it is mostly produced in the north- ple reared under the moral influence of Jack Frost. west. Apples are grown in southernIndia, but at elevations. Indian corn is grown in nearly every part, CLIMATE but it is not a staple crop and is poorly cultivated. The opinion prevails that rice is the principal food 1 To most western people the climate is the great i terror and deterrent to travel and life in India. [t I

I . 334 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE LAND OF INDU 335

is true that the excessive heat in places at certain ! ceptible to heatand drought become scorched and scasons is very trying to most pcoplc, butthe prev- t witheredand appear dead. The lively, ever-present alence of such scriorw rnaladics as bubonic plague and rooks arc everywhere open-beaked-lolling fromthe cholera is tnorc terrifying than it need be. heat. Everything seeks shade. People remain well Climate is 1mc11 affected by local conditions, and indoors after ten in themorning till mid-afternoon; thermometric lines have no regard for latitude ; thc they are wary of the dangerous Indian sun; it seems

tcn~pcrat~~rcduriug hot weather is much higher at l to have amalignant ray not experienced in the west- Lahorethan at Calcutta sixhundred miles further - ern sun. Nearly allEuropeans wear what they call south. Dclhi, Agra, Lucknow, and Benares, away -F a solar topee (a pithsun-hat) as a protection against I from the coast, arehotter during thewarm season - the much dreaded sun. My own opinion inreference than Calcutta threehundred miles south of those to this evil Sun is that his rays in India are the same pIaces. Of course, the seasons are not spring, sum- as elsewhere at the same angle or altitude, that it is n~er,autumn, and winter, but cold, hot, and wet. The theatnmspheric condition which makes the strong cold seasou in thenorth, that is, in thelatitude of sun oppressive and sometimes dangerous. Humid at- Delhi and the Ganges valley, averagesabout 65” mosphere is the deadly oppressor in hot countries the Fahrenheit. That surely is a delightfultemperature, world over. I have suffered less from heat at 110” in and it continues through the months of November, De- thedesert regions of Rajputanathan from 88” in cember, Januaryand February. During those cool Bombay or Colombo wherehumidity is great. The months there is little rain; the sky is generalfy clear; ’ hot season in Indiais not considered unhealthful; ef- the sun in the middle of theday is warm, but not fluvia are banished by drought and malarial poisons hot. A light fire will often be required at night, and seem to be held in suspension ’until thewet season, an overcoat for a walk in the earlymorning. This when rainhastens decomposition and liberates ex- part of India during this season offers typical Egyp- halations. The worst of thehot season is thatit tianwinter weather; and whatmore could be de- makes travel and “getting about” uncomfortable and sired ? I have spent December and January in Delhi, oftenoppressive; the nights are hot, and sleep is and I consider the climate at this season ideal; it is nearly impossible without the constant use of the pun- oftendusty at this time, but dust is not climate al- kah, which is a long heavy fan suspended over every though a result of fine climate. Bombay at the same bed and dining-room table. The bedroom punkahs season will average between 75” and 80” Fahrenheit, areswung throughout the night by men whom you while, inthe sub-Himalayas, there is a mild winter musthire for that purpose, called punkah-wallahs with considerable snow-faII. From Bombay to Cape (pnnkah-fellows). Comorin the temperature for the same months differs So much has been saidabout the intolerable heat but slightly from that of Bombay. of India that would-be visitors are intimidated. There It is evident from these facts that no one need fear is no way by which I can convey a more correct idea heat in Indiaduring the cool months. of the heat to be encountered during the hot season, The heat begins to increase in March, and in Born- than by sayingthat it isexactly like what we call bay and Calcutta this month may be called hot; in a “hot spell” in New York in mid-summer ; there is southernIndia and Ceylon April is by many con- no appreciable difference, exceptthat there is no re- sidered thehottest month. In middle and northern mission of theheat in Indiaduring the hot season, India the heat is daily increasing; the southwest hot save possibly a stronger breeze on certain days. wind blows steadily and often strongly. By June Towards the end of the hot period there is always every blade of grass is withered, and many trees sus- an anxious looking for therains to commence, and THE LAND OF INDIA 337 :ì 3 6 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE

WC cannot wonder at this-the ground is parched, and ture which should be borne in mind by those contem- desert-like; the flocks are half starved and suffering; plating travel or residence in India. There are many agriculture, the source of all wealth and plentitude, is elevations where charming hill stations can be reached paralyzed ; the pluvial advent replenishes and revivi- in a railway journey of a few hours. Throughout the fies the entire Indian world. The coming of the rains northern range of the Himalayas there are many such is nature’s awakening;the whole landscape springs places-there is Debra Dun at an elevation of twen- into suclden verdureand echoes with bird-song. Thc ty-three hundred feet, Naina Tal at six thousand feet, beginning of the wet season is called the “bursting of Simlaand Darjeeling at from seven toeight thou- the monsoons’’ and is always announced by telegraph sandfeet, and southward from Bombay to Cape from Ceylon where the advance rain-clouds first strike Comorin thereare many high and cool levels quite the coast. These moisture-laden winds blow from the above thetorrid plains. All these places constitute southwest and continue during July, August and Sep- veritable little mountain paradises, beautifulwith tember. This period constitutes thethird Indian sea- parks, drives, lakes and shade-trees-delightfuland son. Thetemperature is lowered, but dampness is invigorating bits of home conditions in atropical increased, and this is the season when fever is more clime; they are the geographic and climatic benedic- prevalent and cholera and plague are more common; tions of India, and the traveler is never far from some btlt even in this season, which is considered the worst, of them. there is little to bc apprehended from these or other maladies if a person have sufficient sense and prudence totake reasonable care of himself. Far morc dan- gerous than fevers, cholera or plague is the universal sin of intcmperance in eating and drinking.Nature always penalizes intemperance in eating and drink- ing, particularly in India and all hot countries. “Whis- key andsoda” is the pass-word in King Etlwartl’s oriental empire. The climate has heat enough with- out alcoholic caloric. If you thinkthe trite old proverb :-“When in Rome, do as theRomans do,” a good one, try it in India, and I will guarantee fur you sonlc of the ailments which Europeans usually charge to the climate. An average temperature during the hot season over a greater part of India as far north as Delhi, Luck- now and Benares is approximately 85” Fahrenheit in the shade-not ahigh mark of temperature, but it must be rcnxm-hercd that 85” is an average, and that 90” is not mustlal. The highest reachecl during the last hot season I spent in India was 122% O in the shade. in a notably hot locality in the northwest. Dur- ing the wet season the temperature often falls fifteen degrees. There is one important off-set to the high tempera- THE STORY OF INDIA 339

but were gradually pushed southward by the superior Aryan hosts that followed them. Now the descendants of the Dravidians are scatteredin many tribesover TEE STORY OF INDIA the south-country ; in the Sanskrit language the gm- eralname forthe country they once occupied was From indications discovered in the valley of the Dravida. ’ Narbadá it is evident that India had a neolithic period It will be well to keep in mind these early settlers, far back in herprehistoric dawn. The oldesttraces because in our itinerary over India we.. shall have an are those of agate knives;they were succeeded by opportunity to admiresome wonderful examples 01 polished flint implements, and then still nearer the his- their architecture; but it must not be forgotten that toric period have been discovered mounds and stone the term Dravidian has a very wide range of applica- circles of a monumental character,showing the use tion, that it is a general term for the ancestry of a of iron and enclosing articles of copper and gold. In- greatnumber of different tribes, primarily of the deed, it seems to be the natural law of primal man’s same origin. India is a vast ethnological museum with development to advance by slow degrees, utilizing and a rathervague classification of exhibits, not unlike conquering environments, fromthe flints, stone, and America with her numerous aboriginal races; but in rude pottery, up to the present age of steel, or should the former, there has been a commingling of races for I say of gold ? We see a corresponding order in dif- three thousand years, whereas America has .been ferent parts of the world, and all in accordance with known for only a few hundred years. man’s rational organization and material requirements. The historic period of India begins with that won- We must leave the prehistoric in India as we leave derful people from whom all the more progressive it in other parts of the world-read only by sepulchral Europeannations were formerly believed to have monuments, and by rude implements toserve early sprung, the Aryans. man’s first impulses of necessity. Thereare at the “Forty years ago theorigin of thehistoric races present time many aboriginal tribes in different parts of Europe seemed to most scholars to have been of the country, but it is impossible to identify gny of definitely settled. It was believed that they came them with the remotely prehistoric.” from Asia during the period of Aryan migration- Following the stone age, that is, over three thousand possibly 1,500 yearsbefore the Christian era-and yearsago, there seems to have been an influx from that they all belonged to thesame race-the Aryan the northeast and also from the northwest; the rude race. During the last two decades, however, that invaders from the northeast were of Thibeto-Burman theory has been abandoned by modern scholars, as the origin,and Kolarian; the descendants of theformer result of most searching and exhaustive investigation. still inhabit the eastern sub-Himalayas, while the It does not come within the province of this chapter to Kolariansand their descendants have always occu- enter into the details of this long and complicated con- pied theeastern ranges of thecentral table-land. troversy; we can only give some of the general con- Nothing seems to be known of the Kolarians before clusions. Thus, for example, in the opinion of one of theirappearance in India.The firstinvaders from the most competent scientists of the nineteenth cen- the northwest were Dravidians, and whence they came tury, the late Thomas H. Huxley, the three principal is not exactly known; they first occupied the Punjab, race types of Europe are European types-not Asiatic. In the revised edition of his works, published in 1896, Sir William Hunter is the great. authority on Indian History; fora he maintains that the evidence on the question is çon- excellent, condensed work, see hls Rruf History of the Indian Peopb. sistent with the supposition that three race types of 340 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE TH& STORY 6F INblA 341 Aryan-speaking people‘have existed in Europe throughout historic times, and very far back to pre- “In the beginning there arose the Golden Child. historic times.’ And he adds: ‘There is no proof of He was the one born Lord of all that is. He anymigration of Asiatics intoEurope west of the established theearth and sky. Whois the God Dnieper down to the time of Attila,fourth century, to whomwe shall offer our sacrifice? He who A. D.’” gives life, he who gives strength; whose command Sir William Hunter says :-“The languages of all the Bright Gods revere ; whose shadow is im- Europe and India,although at first sight they seem mortality; whose shadow isdeath. Who is the wide apart,are merely different growths from the God to whomwe shall offer our sacrifice? He originalAryan speech. This is especially true of the who, through his power, is the one king of the common words of family life. The names for father, breathingand awakening world. He who gov- mother,brother, sister and widow arethe same in erns all, man and beast. Who.- is the God to whom most of the Aryan languages, whether spoken on the we shall offer our sacrifice f banks of the Ganges, of the Tiber, or of the Thames. He through whom the sky isbright and the Thus the word daughter, which occtlrs in nearly all earth firm ; he through whom the heavtn was es- of them, has been derived from the Aryan root dugk, tablished, nay, thehighest heaven; he who to milk, and perhaps preserves the memory of the measured out the light and air. Who is the God time when thedaughter was the little milkmaid in to whom we shall offer our sacrifice? the primitive Aryan household.” He who by hismight looked even over the The four holy hooks of the Hindus consist of the water-clouds ; he who alone is God above all gods. early records of the Aryans in their own classic lan- Who is the God to whom we shall offer our sacri- guage, the Sanskrit; these books are collectively called fice ? the Vedas. The first is called the Rigveda, or Veda of praises or hymns; the second the Samaveda, or Veda Women were held in high esteem (probablyhad of chants or tunes. The Veda of prayers is called the equal rights).Marriage was held sacred. The burn- Yajurveda; and the Atharvaveda is the Veda of the ing of widows was unknown. The aborigines buried Atharvans (book of spells). Most that is known of theirdead, but the Aryans practised cremation. The this ancient people isfrom these venerable works. Aryans had blacksmiths, coppersmiths and goldsmiths ; The Rigveda contains an account of thefirst settle- they cultivated with a plow. They were physically and ments of theAryans in the Punjab. Orthodox Hin- mentally superior tothe aborigines; theyhad fair dus, says Hunter, believe it existed “before all time,” complexions, were strong featured,strong in char- at least 3,000 years B. C. Orientalschólars conclude acter and aggressive in spirit, indeed it may be said from astronomical facts to which it refers that it was . they showed all those characteristics which markthe written about 1400 B. C. Aryanprogress over India marvelous civilization of their modern heirs. At first is quite clearly set forth in the Rigveda. the .Aryansheld the aborigines in great contempt, call- There is a remarkable correspondence between their ing them “flatnoses” and other contemptuous names. divinities and those of Greece and Rome. They wor- After subduing, enslaving or driving them southward shipped one God, but not one alone ; they peopled the for centuries, the two races gradually began to inter- Himalayas with gods ; they had a remarkably intelli- mingle and to intermarry. gent conception of the one God as shown by the fol- At this time in the early history of the Indian peo- lowing Vedic hymn, quoted from Hunter :- ple, we come to the origin of the Hindu religion; but that will be considered under the subject of religionç, (See page 362.) THE STORY OF INDIA 343

We see then how the country was filled up by sur- Indus, at the site of the modern town Uchh, where 1-0~111dingpeoples, th Thihctans, Ctlrlmse, Kolarians, of 1)mvidians and Aryans. As the enterprisingAryans his army camped for a time, he built a city which he sl)read a knowlc(lp of the fertile lands which they named Alexandria ; proceeding downward he founded had forml other invadcrs from the st~rroundingtrilles another city-Patala, which at the presenttime is in their home-region followcd, just as the people do known as Haiderabad. today when new sources of wealth are discovered and From Patala, Alexander sent a portion of his army heralded over the triorld. by ships aroundthe coast and by the Persian Gulf back to Susa. The other division he accompanied overland across Baluchistan andPersia to the same GREEK INVASION (327 to 161 B. C.) point, which he reached in 325 B. C. During his two Following the Aryans, the next important invasion years’ campaign in the northwest of India the great was that of the Greeks under Alexander the Great warrior made alliances, established colonies, founded about 327 B. C. If theAryans entered India about a few cities and planted some Greek garrisons, but 1400 E. C. they must have held sway for many cen- subjugated no provinces, nor did he make any im- turies, possibly a thousand years, and, if tluring this portant conquest; he, however, gave much territory to great period of time the Greeks had been advancing native chiefs who had espoused his cause. After great along a line of civilization first taught to them by the privationshe reached Susa where he sojourned to Aryans, we see the oft-repeated historic fact of a con- consummate a marriage with the daughter of Darius. quering and colonizing people educating their subjects Two years later he died at Babylon. to become their hostile competitors, After Alexander the Great, there were other Greek Alexander advanced over the passes of the north- invasions ;the Greeks had established a powerful king- west and by the way of modernAttock; there he dom inBactria, and Greek-Bactrian invaders ad- crossed the Indus and reached the Jhelum where he vanced against the northwest frontiers; but they made fought a battle with a local ruler named Porus, whom no important conquests and founded no kingdoms. he defeated. He afterwards marched southward as The mostenduring traces of Greek occupation may far as Amritsar.Near the Jhelum, Alexander built be foundin their beautiful sculptures and in their two memorial cities-one on the west bank of the coins. On Buddhiststatues are sometimes found river he named after his famous charger Bucephala. Greek faces, and in temples may be seen Greek sculp- This city was near the present city of Jalalpur ; his tures. famous horse was killed in this battle of the Jhelum. Alexanderintended to marchsouthward to the SCYTHIAN INVASION (100 B. c. to 500 A. D.) Ganges, but, when he found nativeforces gathering behind him, andsaw thatthe great heat and fierce For about two hundred years after the Alexandrian monsoon winds weredispiriting his troops, he de- expedition into the northwest of India, the Greek and cided to withdraw by a different route, knowing that Bactrian incursions continued; and no soonerhad by a singfe defeat his entire army might be lost. He those northern adventurers ceased to exploit the tempt- led his army back to the Jhelum and foIlowed that ing cis-Himalayan regions, thanother hordes com- riverand the Indus to Multan, the capital of the menced to follow their example, coming from a region Punjab then and now. At Multan he fought a pitched lying fartherto the northand east. They embraced battle with the Malli; the great world conqueror was representations from various tribes, and formed a severely wounded in this battle. Farther down the connecting link between Indian and Chinese history. Scythia being a vast countrylying northward, these 34-4 IXDIA THROUGIE THE STEREOSCOPE THE STORY OF INDIA 345

new invaders fromthe north were generally called during thesecenturies istherefore religious rather Scythians ; they are sometimes called liuns, awing to ! than political, and will be further considered under tl~cirsimilar characteristics and sometimes Tartars, 1 thesubject of religions. As, however, Mohammedan- because of a corresponcting identity of qualities. From I I ism was largely an aggressive and political religion, 100 B. C. to 500 A. D., that is, for six hundred ! ! given to conquest of territory as well as of converts, years or longer, these restless andfurious Scythians the Mohammedans must be classed among the other continued their inc~~rsionsinto northern India ; theirs invaders of India. Mohammed died in 1632, and with- were the beginning of a series of aggressions which in one hundredyears after hisdeath the crescent continued down tothe time of Timurand Genghis had been carried eastward to the Hindu Kush mun- Khan,and which resulted in thefounding of the tains; but the new faith had not gathered strength to Mogul empire. Some claim that Buddha was a carry its forces into the midst of the contending hosts c Scythian. Theydrove out the Greek colony from of Buddhism and Hinduism. Bactria, and supplanted what was left of the Greek Arab Moslems had conducted an expedition by sea element in thenorthwest of India.They established to Thana and Broach on the south coast, and incur- themsclves securely in Indiaabout the beginning of sions were made into Sind, but there were noperman- the Christian era, founded a monarchy, and appointed ent results, although the invaders were not ex- one Iianishka to be their king, who fixedhis capital pelled from Sind until 828 A. D. An opinion has pre- in Cashmcre ; but the limits of his kingdom extended vailed that India was a complete conquest for Islam, from Tarkand on the north to Agra and Sind on the but this is clearly disproven by historical facts which south. The Scythians adopted theBuddhist religion; show that, while a series of invasions extended over and, while the south countries adopted Buddh'Ism as eleven centuries, at no period did the Mohammedans promulgated by Asoka's Council in 244 B. C., the rule over all India. Scythians at thenorth chose the same creed as ex- The history of India during a millenium of foreign pounded by King Kanishka's Council in the year 40 invasion was not unlike that of Europe when overrun A, D., and which became the Buddhism north of India by semi-barbaric hosts from the great breeding ground from Scythia to Japan. It is believed that a large pro- of early times. An account of all the attempts at con- portion of the population of northwesternIndia at questduring these many centuries would far exceed thepresent time are descendants of these Asiatic the limits of this synoptical sketch of Indian history. Northmen. There is considerable diversity of opinion as to the origin of races in the north of India, but it MOHAMMEDAN ASCENDANCY (1001 to 1761 A. D.) ' is not likely that the blood of a virile race, dominant six centuries, has been extinguished. Duringthat This space of over seven centuries includes eight long period many vain attempts were made by Indian different dynasties, and the most celebrated of these rulers to expel the Scythians. - was the line of Timuror Tamerlane.This famous During the period we have been considering, that warrior united the tribes of the north and west, crossed is, between the advent of the Aryans and that of the the northwest ranges and advanced on Delhi, where he Scythians (1400 B. C. to 500 A. D.), two great world defeated King Mahmud and entered the capital after religions were founded, viz. : Buddhism and Brah- a battle of five days, when the streets were impassable manism or Hinduism ; and, if the space of time be from the number slain. After a few days of festive extended forward less than a hundred years, it would debauchery, during which he praised God for his vic- include Mohammedanism, makingthree of the great tory, as conquerors usua!ly do, he proclaimed himself religions of the world. Much of the history of India ' king. He crossed the Ganges, laidwaste Hardwar l I 346 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE STORY OF lNDlA 847

and Meerut with great slaughter, and returned to his i sembly of the doctors of all religions, and is allowed own capital at Samarkand laden with the loot of war. 1 to have had the best of theargument.” Although Timur had proclaitned himself king, tlw l The last days of this truly great man were embit- title lapscd till his granclson ierrevived it and re- tered by theintrigues of his family, particularly his coverctl possession of Delhi and othercities; Babel-, son Prince Selim, who succeeded to the throne of his, a descendant of Timur, was the first to bear the title, father. Akbar the Great died in 1605, and was buried Great hlogul. at Sikandarah in a magnificent mausoleum which we The advent of the Mogul dynasty brings us to the shall visit on our stereographicjourney (Positions golden age of old India, and when our itinerary takes 69-71). In 1873 theBritish Viceroy, LordNorth- us to Delhi and Agra and places near the capital of brook, presented a cloth of honor to be placed over the theGreat I~loyt~ls,we shall see in their marvelous slab which covers the tomb of thegreatest of the architectural acllievements evidence of their worthiness Great Moguls. of claim to the term “great” as always a part of the Prince Selim succeeded to the throne of his father distinguishing title of their dynasty. and was called Jehangir. His queen was the lovely The historlc Mogul emperors descended from a Nur Mahal in LaEla Rookh. Akbar, thefather, did wonderful line of ancestry: Baber, the first of the not favor his son’s symptoms of alliance with Nur line, was a descendant of Timur, who was one of Mahal, and sent her away and compelled her to marry the warrior scourges of the world. Timur-s father had a brave soldier. After the old emperor’s death, Jehan- been a Tartar and his mother a descendant of Genghis gir ordered the soldier-husband to relinquish his claim Khan, another warrior scourge. A grandson of Baber on the formersweetheart of him who was now em- was Akbar the Great, whose reign extended from peror. The soldier refused and was killed; but, after I 1556 to 1605 A. D., and who is looked upon as the a chaste and becoming retirement, Nur Mahal became h@‘ greatest and most enlightened sovereignwho ever Jehangir’s empress. Jehangirin a measure followed ruled in India, or indeed in Asia,until recent times. the wise administration of his father, and labored with He consolidated and brought under his beneficent rule considerable zeal in the interests of his empire-when all of India north of the Vindhya range of mountains. he was sober. He reigned twenty years and was suc- He reconciled Hindu feudal princes by placing them ceeded by his son Shah Jehan. on an equality with the nobles of his realm. He en- Shah Jehan, the fifth Great Mogul, a grandson of the couraged agriculture; he honored the customs and great Akbar, reigned from 1628 to 1658. He gained laws of the Hindus ; he enforced justice and abolished territory in thesouth, but lost some of his Asiatic prov- animal sacrifices; he legalized theremarriage of inces ; he maintained the splendor of his court; he put widows ; he discountenanced suttee; he was broad and to death his brother and all scions of the Akbar family I tolerant in matters of religion. It is claimed by some who might lay claim to the throne; but in those days, ! that one of Akbar’s wives was a Christian. Hunter it seems, an occasional murder of a rival aspirant was says :-“On Fridays (the Sabbath of Islam), he almost a prerogative of sovereignty. The peerless loved to collect professors of many religions around structures which he erected at Agra(see Positions him. He listened impartially to the arguments of the 65-68), are still witnesses to the world of the glory BrahSan andthe Mussulman, theZoroastrian, the of &e Mogul dynasty, for under Shah Jehan the Em- Jew, the Jesuit and the sceptic philosopher. The his- pireattained its highestpoint of strength and mag- tory of his life, the Akbar-namah, records such a con- ference, in which the Christian priest, Redif, disputed with a body of Mohammedan mdas before an as- 348 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE STORY OF INDIA 349

father, but at the same time terminated the reign of hfarathas he was compelled to sue for terms of set- Great Moguls. When YOLI read of the “Peacock tlement; terms were arranged, but were soon broken Throne” that cost thirty millions of dollars, and see the off by thehaughty Maratha chiefs, andAurangzeb Taj Mal atAgra, and learn that thedesigner of so fled to distantparts of theempire for safety and much beauty was cruelly imprisoned in thefort at where he died in 1706. “On the approach of death,” Agra by this Aurangzeb, you will agree with Hunter says Hunter, “he gave utterance in broken sentences who says that :- “Akbar’s dynastylay under the to his worldly counsels and adieus, mingled with ter- curse of rebellious sons. As Jehangir had risen against ror and remorse, and closing in an agony of desperate his most loving fatherAkbar, and Shah Jehanhad resignation ; ‘Come whatmay, I have Iaunched my mutinied against Jehangir; so Shah Jehan in his turn 1 vessel on the waves. Farewell ! Farewell ! Fare- suffered from the intrigues and rebellion of his family. well !’ ” In 1657 the old king fell ill, and Aurangzeb, after a Aurangzeb was the last of the great Moguls; the treacherous conflict withhis brethren, deposed his “great” were succeeded by eleven lesser Moguls. The father, and proclaimed himself emperor in 1658. The former were all distinguished by many eminent quali- unllappy emperor Jehan was kept in confinement for ties, while the latter had only the qualities which char- seven years, and died a State prisoner in the fort of acterize a declining imperialline. The lesser Mogul Em- Agra in 1666.” We see in this, as in all cases, whether perors cover a period extending from 1707 to 1857. of nations in olden times or in modern times, and The last date of the period corresponds with the time whether in governments or in families, what I will of the great Indian Mutiny, and in that mutiny the call theingratitude of inheritance;it seems to the last of the Mogul line took part with the Sepoys writer, if in a brief historic narrative a private thought against the English. After the Mutiny was put down, may be interjected,that, so great a part of govern- this miserable residuant of a great dynastywas a mentalstrife and family strife has arisenand con- prisoner in Delhi ; there, within the palace walls of his tinues to arise from the law or custom of succession noble ancestors,he was sentenced to banishment to and entailment, a practicable abolishment of the same Rangoon, where he died in 1862. would add to the progress and happiness of mankind. However,Aurangzeb reigned forty-nine years, was THE MAHRATTAS (1650 to 1818) the source of much grief to others and came to grief himself. He was the last ofthe great Moguls. The Thereis arugged mountainous region in central yearafter his accession, heput to death his eldest India, between Nagpor and the western coast, which brother.Within a second year,he had driven off a was formerly called Maharastra (the Great Kingdom). second brother who perished among savages; a third The invincible warriors and throne-hunters known in brother was soon thereafter executed in prison; his Indianhistory as Mahrattas or Marathas, took their invalid father was confined in the fort at Agra mourn- name from this, their homeland. They were primarily ing over his murdered sons until his death. an uprising of the old Hindu element which had re- Aurangzeb spent twenty years of his reign in con- mained quiescent during the supremacy o€ the Mogul tinuouswars south of the Vindhyas. He was a empire. They were joined by the independent Mogul b,igoted Moslem; he failed in carrying out the con- party in the south and became one of the most formid- ciliatory policy of his great-grandfather,Akbar. A able army of raidersever’ known. Theywere scat- great, new, Hindu force had been increasing in power teredthroughout the Western Ghauts,mounted cm in the central and western part of the empire, called hardy ponies and could be assembled quickly to repel the Marathas;after long and bloody wars withthe an attack.. There were five Mahratta houses or 350 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE THE STORY OF INDIA 351

dynasties, with five capitals, and these five consti- iI traders. The native princes learned to love and honor tuted apowerful confederacy continually engaged in Albuquerque, but despised his successors, who soon raidsuntil brought into conflict with theEnglish in weresupplanted by thehardier and better tempered 17’75-1781; then a six-ycars’ war ended ina treaty Dutch and English. The only Portuguese possessions which ceded the islands of Salsette and Elephanta to i! now inIndia (1907) are at Goa, Daman and Diu, all the English. on the west coast-settlements embracing eleven hun- SCCOJI~ A waroccurrcd between theMarathas and ìi dredsquare miles with a population of 500,000. There the English in 1802-1804, and a third war was fought are 30,000 Portuguesehalf-castes in Bombay called in 1817-1818, when thePeshwa surrendered to the Eurasians, and about 20,000 in Bengal. English and his domain was annexed to the Bombay i Presidency. ThePeshwa (chief or prince) was held 1 EUROPEAN SETTLEMENTS-DUTCH (1596-1758) a prisoner at Bithur, near Cawnpore, and his son be- l came thenotorious Nana Sahib, the most heartless Producebrought to Europefrom India by the and blood-thirsty fiend in the annals of crime. Portuguese kindled thespirit of exploration in the Dutchand English. The Dutch made threeattempts EUROPEAN SETTLEMENTS-PORTUGUESE (1492-1640) - to reach the Orient land of promise by the north pas- sage. Cornelius Houtman was the firstDutchman to Up to this time all invaders had approached India double the Cape of Good Hope, in 1596. He followed from landward; those from Europe came by sea. Co- the coast of Sumatra and established a post at Ban- lumbus proposed a private invasion of India, but, by tam in Java, the first foot-hold of the Dutch in the miscalculation, invaded America instead. Fiveyears Orient. In 1619 they made Bataviatheir chief head- later Vasco da Gama sailed from Lisbon, takingan quartersin the East. Near the same time they dis- eastwardcourse around Cape Horn, and reached covered Australiaand founded the city of New Calicut on the Malabar coast after a voyage of eleven Amsterdam (New York) in America. During the months. Arabshad established a trade on thiscoast seventeenth century the Dutch were the most powerful and they showed great hostility to the European in- maritime people in the world. They compelled the terlopers. The Calicut Raja received the strange mar- Englishto withdraw from theEastern Archipelago, iner with kindness;and after a sojourn of several and drove out the Portuguese from Ceylon, Formosa months the voyagerreturned, bearing a letterfrom and Malacca. In 1651 they planted a midway colony the Zamorin to theKing of Portugal. Here follows atthe Cape of Good Hope;and in 1664 they cap- theletter, the first greeting of Indiato Europe :- turedfrom the Portuguese all their pepper-produc- “Vasco da Gama, a nobleman of your household, has ingstations along the Malabar coast. Likethe visited my kingdom, and has given me great pleasure. Portuguese, the Dutchwere unscrupulous in their In my kingdom there is abundance of cinnamon, cloves, treatment of commercial competitors. They stopped ginger, pepper and precious stones. What I seek at no deeds of cruelty to attain their commercial aim, from your country is gold, silver, coral and scarlet.” which was to hold a monopoly of the spice trade; but Four years later Da Gama returned and bombarded they failed to introducetheir civilization, without the Zamorin of Calicut who had treated him so kindly. which permnency of denization is impossible. Albuquerque came to India in 1509 and Da Gama a Dutch supremacy in theEast ended when Clive third time in 1524. All the Portuguese except Albuquer- forced an ignominious capitulation at Chinsurah. Dur- quetreated the Indians with dastardly cruelty. They ingthe great French wars-1793-IB15-England were bigoted 2nd fanatical crusadersrather than forcedfrom Holland her eastern settlements ; Java, THE STORY OF INDIA 353

however, was afterwards restoredand Sumatraex- tioa. It was a commercial scramble, an Oriental Klon- changed for Malacca in 1824. At thepresent time, dyke, and, as in all such competitions, it was a survival while the Dutch hold Java and Sumatra and a num- of the fittest. English courage and tenacity dominated ber of islands in the East Indian archipelago, they have after nearly threehundred years,and the English no foothold on the mainland of India. East India Company outlived all its competitors. The French founded one East Indian Company in FRENCH AND ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS (1496-17’60) 1604, a second in 1611, a third in 1615, a fourth in 1642, and a fifth in 1644; also a sixth a fewyears The Englishmade several attempts to reach India later.But, in the long wars waged between England by thenorth passages, westward and then eastward. andFrance in Indiaand in Europe,the latter lost I The Cabots madethe first attempt in 1496. They both her political and commercial hold on the great failed, but discovered Newfoundland.Fifty-seven Eldorado of theEast. At thepresent time France years later Willoughby made a venture by the north- retains only a few small andunimportant stations, east,and lost his life in the fruitlessattempt. After such as Karikal, Cllandernagore and Pondicherry, em- a lapse of twenty-five -years rcncwetl essays were bracing altogethcr sonle one hundred and seventy-eight njatie by such men as Frobisher, Davis, Iiudson and square miles with a population of about 300,000. Baffin ; they succeeded in engraving their names im- The centuries of trade wars, as well as political perishably on the maps of the world, but found no way wars and government intrigue, all seemed to eventuate to the East by thenorth. in a dual strife between France and England for the The Indian Archipelago was the first objective point control of Jndia. England was at war with France forthe establislment of trade by theEnglish ; they much of thetime between 1740 and 1820. Dupleix formed a trading post at Bantam in Java.They was thefamous leader of the French and Col. Clive broughtcargoes of spices fromthe Moluccas, from (afterward Lord Clive) of theEnglish. It should be Banda,and from Amboyna and Bantam. The Portu- remembered that during thislong period of war be- guese resisted theEnglish development of trade. tween the two countries in Europe and America, the Trade rivalries led to naval hostilities both in the war in India was really only an incident of the wars at EasternArchipelago and along the coasts of India. home. The decisive battle between theserival In 1615 occurreda famous sea-battle off the coast European nations in India took place at Wandiwash, of Bombay, during which CaptainBest four times when Col. Coote defeatedthe Frenchgeneral Lally; repelled theattack of an overwhelmingPortuguese and here ended the prolonged struggle between these fleet;this filled thenative with respect forEnglish great powers of Europe for supremacy in India. The courage.Finally the English relinquished theirtrad- paramountcy of England was now established. The , ing posts in Archipelagothe directedand theirener- men who did most to securethis forBritain were gies to the mainland of India: they built factories and Clive, the hero of the battle of Plassey; Warren Hast- established trading stations along the Coromandel and ings, who, in a great crisis held what Clive had won; i Malabar coasts, and at Surat on the west coast, and a ’ Lord Wellesley;and Lord Dalhousie, “thegreatest few years later in the neighborhood of Calcutta. of Indian pro-consuls.” I A great many trading companies wereformed in The administration of Dalhousiebrings the period England and in other European countries; there was, of Indianhistory up to 1856. The time between the indeed a European craze for exploiting this new source final overthrow of the French in 1760 and the great of trade. Therewere Swedish,Prussian, Austrian, Indian Mutiny in 1857, nearlya hundred years, is French companies, besides those alreadyunder men- filled with important events. TheEnglish were fre- 354 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE I THE STORY OF INDIA I vvv

quently engaged with hostile native forces. The Mah- of foreignencroachment. The terribleordeal of the .l rattas several times threatened the English supremacy. Mutinytaught two never-to-be-forgotten lessons-to For centuries theEast India Company had been theIndias, the futility of anyattempt to overthrow practically the government. In 1774 this was changed, British rule-to the English,never sIumbering vigi- andthe formerly independent presidencies of Bom- lance. bay, Madras and Calcutta were confederated into one ThomasStevens, the firstEnglishman to visit In- general government under a Governor-General for all dia, reachedSalsette in 1579. On January lst, 1877, India, and this order with but slight modification con- Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India at tinues down to the present time. Delhi. Thereforeit may be said thatEngland was Between 1818 and 1857 the army of India was en- gaged in six expeditions-two against Burma;two 1 twogreathundred Indian and eighty years inEmpire. Just twenty-sixbuildingyears later, up her againstthe Punjab and a waragainst Bhartpur in * JanuaryIst, 1903, Edward VI1 was proclaimed Em- 1826 ; another against a dependency of Kabul in 1843, peror from the same place near Delhi that witnessed resulting in the annexation of the Punjab in 1848. A Queen Victoria’s reception of the imperialtitle. At third war against Burma, in 1888, brought about the this great imperial ceremony, known as the Delhi formal annexation of a vast portion of Burmese ter- Durbar,one hundred native princes were present to ritory. testify their allegiance to the British Empire. The year 1857 in Indian annals brings us to what By the latest census of the entire Empire, announced has been called the “blackest crime in lmman history” in 1906, the population is 400,000,000; this includes -the greatIndian Mutiny, or Sepoy Rebellion. The native States,but directly under British control are story of theMutiny is familiarto the world, and 231,899,507. What abewildering relationship for the scarcely requiresrecapitulation here. If, perchance, two Aryan off-shoots-oneplanted in the far west, and a reader of this has not read the thrilling history of the other in the far east, over three thousand years that struggle, let him do so as a duty; for if he be of ago ! Anglo-Saxon blood he willbe prouder of his race when he is familiar with such noble names as Have- lock, Lawrence, Colin Campbell, Nicholson, Outram andKavanagh and many others. Now, after fifty years the verdict of men eminently qualified to judgein reference to the cause of that uprising. is, that it was primarilyattributable to a crisis in thenative mind andheart arising from the increasing grip of Englandon India, and the irrita- tion of transition from the old India to the new. -The army supply of cartridges unfortunately greased with hog and cow fat,abhorrent to Hindu and Moham- medan prejudices; the cutting off of the title and rev- mues of NanaSahib, the lastrepresentative of the Mogul dynasty; the ineligibility of natives to certain offices-all these werecontributory causes. Bishop Thoqburn says that the causes were similar to those of the Boxer uprising in China in 1900-the irritation I GOVERNMENT 357 British Provinces Area in sq. miles Population Burma ...... 236,738 10,490,624 Assam ...... 56,243 ’ 6,126,343 Bengal ...... 151,185 74,744,866 Agraand Oudh ...... 107,164 47,691,782 Punjab ...... 97,209 20,330,339 GOVERNMBNT N. W. FrontierProvinces. .. 16,466 2,125,480 Bombay (Province) ...... 123,064 18,559,561 The reader should here give some study to the gen- Madras(Province) ...... 141,726 38,209,436 eral map. Parts of the land which, like Bengal, Others...... 157,409 13,621,076 Rladrasand Bombay, actually belong tothe British Empire, are distinguished in coloring from the Native 1,087,204 231,899,507 States, which, like Kashmir and Rajputana, are merely Native States under a British protectorate. Haidarabad ...... 82,698 11,141,142 The Statesman’s Year Book thus clearly defines the Kashmir ...... 80,900 2,905,578 Rajputana ...... 127,541 9,723,301 clifference between the British Provinces and the Native 5,539,399 States :- Mysore ...... 29,444 Central India ...... 78,772 8,628,781 “India, in its widest sense, includes BritishIndia Others ...... 234,107 24,523,348 and the Native States; the former is under the direct 62,461,549 control in all respects of British officials. The con- 633,462 trol which theSupreme Government exercises over Certain names, like “thePunjab” (in the north- theNative States varies in degree;but they are all west part of Hindustan between Kashmirand Raj- governed by thenative princes, ministersor councils putana)are used bydifferent people withdifferent with the help and under the advice of a resident, or meanings sometimes signifying the exact territory so agent in political chargeeither of asingle Stateor marked on ourmap and sometimes signifyingin a a group of States. The chiefs have no right to make more general way a vaguely limited area of country war or peace, or to send ambassadors to each other or in that-vicinity. to external States; they are not permitted to maintain “The- ~~ ~ form of the English Government of India is amilitary force above acertain specified limit; no complex. It is the outgrowth of great wars and long European is allowed to reside at any of theircourts andlaborious legislation. There have been two dis- without special sanction;and the Supreme Govern- tinct historical stages. The first was an individual gov- ment can exercise theright of deposinga chief in ernment, or the rule of the East India Company, from A. D. 1600 to 1857. The second has prevailed from case of misgovernment. Within these limits the more 1857 to the present, and is the government under the important chiefs possess sovereignauthority in their sovereign.Change fromthe East India Company to ow’n territorics. Some of them are required to pay the present control of the King was made by direct act an annual tribute; with others this is nominal, or not of Parliament. It was the result of the Sepoy Re- demanded.” bellion, when it became clear that, to hold India, there The area and population of the several provinces are must be a direct responsibility of the government itself. here given, and will be found interesting to notice in The system is duplex, the general supervision beitlg connection with a study of the map and its divisions. in England, but the real work being done by the local

! 1 358 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE i GOVERNMENT 859 I government of India. The supreme head of authority change of laws which apply to India as a whole, but is the British sovereign, who is at the same time the leaves the local legislation to the provincial legislative Emperor of India.But the practical government is bodies. It is not necessary thatthe Governor Gen- vested in a Secretary of State for India, and the Coun- eral’s Council consist of Europeans only. cil of fifteen members. Theyadminister the home There arefive provincial governments, Madras, Bom- business, such asthe engagement of officers forthe bay, Bengal, North West Provinces and the Punjab. various departments of civil administration ; the pay- Each of thesegovernments is fully equipped, having ment of pensions; the provisions of funds for Indian civil officers, judicial officers and authority to collect expenditure in England; negotiations with the railroad revenue. The Governor of Madrasis appointed by companies;the purchase of supplies for Indian ad- the Crown, holds office five years, has his capita1 at ministration; and many other matters belonging to the Madras,and has a Council of three. The Govern- English authoi-ity over India. ment of Bombay is constitutedin the same way as “The Secretary of State for India, at Westminster, that of Madras,with the city of Bombay as the is vested with almost supreme power. €le is the real capital. The Government of Bengal is administered representative of the sovereign. He can even veto by a Lieutenant Governor, with a Legislative Council leg-islative enactments or administrative arrangements of twelve members. The LieutenantGovernor is ap- of the Viceroy and his Council in India. Eut his course pointed by the Viceroy, and holds office five years. is marked with conservative care,and he takes his Calcutta is his capital. TheNorth West Provinces Counci1 largely fromthe local Indian Government. andthe Punjab are each under a Lieutenant Gw- “Let us now look at thegovernment of India in ernor, appointed for five years.”” India itself. At the head standsthe Viceroy, who is It must not be forgotten that the Government above called, in a business sense, Governor-General of India. described refers only to the part of India directly and He is appointed by the King, at the nomination of the wholly underEnglish control. Thereare altogether existing ministry. Histerm lasts five years. onehundred and fifty-three native states;but many The capital of India is Calcutta, where the Viceroy of these are small and unimportantand are ,for ad- lives in the great Government House, and with almost ministration purposes grouped into thirteen divisions, regalsurroundings. His summer capital is Simla, in governed by their respective nativerulers with an theHimalaya mountains. He has a Council of six advisory British representative called a Resident. Har- ordinary members, besides the Commander-in-chief of monious relations exist between theserulers of in- the Indian Army and the Lieutenant Governor of Ben- dependent states and the general government; neither gal. The six ordinary members of his Council are should it be forgotten, that, during the Mutiny, many appointed by the Viceroy himself, are confirmed by of the native princes remained true and loyal to Eng- theCrown, and hoIdoffice five years. Thisis the land, and but for their support India would have been Supreme Council. The Supreme Council has charge lost to England. of the finances of India, controls thesubordinate or There are in India 75,000 English troops and some provincial governments, and can amend or annul any 150,000 nativetroops, besides Native Reserves, Im- order or proceedings of those provincial governments. perial Service Troops and Eurasian Volunteers, mak- The Vi,ceroy has also a Council for making laws, ing an additional 75,000. The Indian police force costs known as the Supreme LegisIatíve Council, composed about $11,500,000 annually, yet it must be admitted of the members of theSupreme Council and nine that an average Hindu servitor of the peace lacks the others, five of whom must be non-official. The Su- persuasive qualities of a New York ‘‘cop.” preme Legislative Council has in hand the making or From Idka, the CmtW an¿ Peapts af Idaand Geh, by J. F. Hurst.

m EDUCATION 361,

progress made in the education of women. Only a few years ago the most ardent and sanguinemissionary entertained no hope for female education. The emi- nent Dr. Duff said :-“One might as well try to scale a wall fifty miles high.” The average native belief BD UCATION seemed to be that women are mentally defective, and With such a teeming population, and poverty so wide- cannot learn; furthermore, that education would en- spread, it need scarcely be said that there is a great danger their morals; now half a million women and percentage of illiteracy in India. The last census re- girls have vindicated the intellectual andmoral ca- turns show only about fifty-three persons in a thou- pacity of Indian women by taking university honors. sand who are literate, or able to read their own lan- In country villages where the old native ways are guage, that is about five per cent. The causes are, still adhered to, one can witness some droll laws of ofcoL1rse, not far to seek-populousness, struggle for pedagogy;the gentle Hindu shows cleverness in de- existence, lack of intelligence, caste prejudice, the low vising original penal “stunts.” Crooke says aBengal estate of women and the high estate of the priests. dominie wouldcompel a boy to stand with his back Althotrgh thcre are not yet any compulsory laws, bent and a brick onhis neck, which if he dropped, the govcrnmcnt is doing n~ucl~to advance educational earned him a caning; refractory boys were sometimes illtercsts in the empire. The annual cost to the gov- put in a bag with a bundle of nettles or a cat, and often ernment for keeping up the educational system reaches (Hindu boys have scant attire)the bag containing the sun? of $5,000,000, while receipts from fees and the boy and cat was rolled aRout the floor. Another school revenues amount to about $500,000; this,of penalty consisted in compelling the culprit to mark off course, refers only to the British Provinces. a given number of yards on the ground with the tip of In the Native States the outlook is not so favorable; his nose; but such things of course belong to the old but much even there is being done by the missionary régime. workers, and considerable by the native rulers. The general government of India appropriates about one-fortieth of its annual revenue for educational pur- poses-about $10,000,000; butthis is not necesasrily considered a great sum for so large a country. If we allow only twenty million out of thethree hundred million of the popuIation to be of school age, that is, if out of every fourteen persons we allow for one to be of school age, the $10,000,000 will yield fifty cents for the yearly education of each child. But no doubt the governmentappropriation will be gradually in- creased. The education of India is a stupendous task, nevertheless, thegovernment has undertaken it. In 1859 there were 2,000 public schools in all India with a total attendance of all ages of 200,000. In fate years the number of schoofs has increased to l55,OOO and the attendance to 5,000,000. One interesting feature of the educational movement in late years has been the great RELIGION-HINDUS . 363

notrest on the ancient Vedas, but upon the later scattered and so-called sacred writings.” The Brahman priests have a wonderful histoiy, they may be regarded as thefounders of thegreat Hindu religion. They have maintained their high position for three thousand years, and are at the pres- ent time the most cultured and most highly esteemed among the people of India.They form an unbroken The following list shows the names of the princi- descent fromthe original Aryan conquerors. In in- pal religions in Indiaand the numbers of their re- tellectual training and physicial development they sur- spective adherentsaccording to thelatest census re- pass all other native races. They long ago developed turns :- a system of philosophy and studied astronomy, medi- Hindus 207,147,026 Sikhs 2,195,339 cine, musicand law. Theirlanpage was the San- Mohammedans 62,458,077 Jains 1,334,148 skrit; and it is claimed that, in the excellent develop- I3ucldhists 9,476,759 Parsees 94,190 ment of grammatical perfection, theysurpassed the Animists 8,584,148 Jews 18,228 Greeks and Romans. Christians 2,923,241 Others 129,900 Some one has said that no full account of Hinduism can be given in one ordinary volume, so here I can aim only at presentinga few salient features. The HINDUS religious system of I-Iinduism-saysThoburn-is A great majority of the people of India have sprung admitted, without challenge to contain “all truths, all 8 fromthe early Aryan and non-Aryan races and are errors,all virtues, all vices, and only insists that all called Hindus, from the native word Hind for lndia, shall wearits brand.” But whatthe average reader and their religion is called Hinduism; but Brahman- most desires is its chief tenets in briefest form. Ism is often the name applied to Hinduism as opposed Most people are more or less familiar with the to Mohammedanism, and as taught and expounded by names of thethree principal divinities of the Hindu a line of priests called Brahmans. faith-Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva-Brahma, the The Brahmans were higherthan the kings in Creator,Vishnu the Preserver, and Shiva the De- ancient times. TheAryan book of wisdom (bible) stroyer. The student of Hinduism will, however, soon wascalled theRig-Veda which was a collection of find himself bewildered by the endless list of subordi- historical hymns. The original Rig-Veda was latterly , supplemented by threeother service books, and these nate divinities in the Hindu pantheon :-this is because the primary triad have for milleniums been multiply- l four sacred books are known in literatureas The ing incarnations. Vishnu and Shiva especially appear ! Vedas (See page 340). The Brahman priests were I in many incarnations; and besides the triad there are the expounders of the Vedas which they declared to many inferior gods to suit all sorts of conditions, as be the “Wisdom of God.” The Vedas were poems, with the divinities of Greece and Rome. and prose books wereadded setting forth the duties As already intimated, Hinduism may embrace all of the priests ; these were called Brahmanas, and, with the evil and all the good, and for that reason it is dif- thefour Vedas constitutethe sacred writings of the ficult to formulate al1 its tenets; there are, however, Hindus. The Vedas are the inspired word,and the seven points of faith on which there is a unanimity of Brahmanas the theology of the Hindu. Rowe says :- belief. These seven points of faith, I have drawn “The Brahmanism of today, as a religious system, does from Wilkins’ Modern, Hinduism :- 364 INDIA T.HROUGI3 THE STEREOSCOPE l RELIGION-HINDUS 365 First:-“God isone without a Second,” is a com- 1 means illusion, and a belief in illusion is an important mon saying among the TTindus when referring to the feature in Hindu faith. The average Hindu believes Deity. They confess that this one God is theCreator thateverything in the worldis an emanationfrom of all nwn, whatcvcr their race, color and creed. They God, but that,although all thingsare God in some explain their position in this manner :-God is great form, men areapt to consider themselves as sorne- ant1 cannot be fullyexpressed by any one being; all thingdifferent from Him. This, they consider Maya the gods differing as they do in formand character, or illusion. They believe thattrue wisdom consists representa part, but only a small part, of His im- in recognizing the identity of allthings with God. mensity. They will readily admitthat Christ is one They believe further,that allsorrow and suffering of the manifestations of God, and that Christianity is come fromthis illusion, or Maya. Thereare many a religion good in itself,though not forHindus. It ways, they say, of overcomingMaya. The best way is the claim for Christ’s supremacy which gives of- is by meditating constantly on the oneness of the soul fense. with God, until the mind becomes conscious of nothing Second-They believein theperfect holiness of else. God, and admit all the divine attributes which Christ- Fifth.-The pantheism of Hinduism is shown in the ians apply to 1h-1: but they I~elicvethat when He is belief that God is everywhere and everything-that He i~~carnatcdin SOIIIC‘ hing I IC is capable of degrada- is in everyone. Thereforea man’s deeds are not his tion, aml, using f lis grcater wisdom, is capable of own,but are prompted by God. Consequently sin is greater offenses. A4sa rulethe characteristics of the not sin. God, being in man ancl greaterthan man, incarnations arc quitethe opposite of thesupreme dominates all humanactions, and man is not re- Tdeal; and yet Hindus cannot be made to see the in- sponsible. This is readily observed to be one of the congruity. most dangerousand pernicious tenetsof Hinduism, Third.-The I-Iindus believe there may be millions because it abolishes all moral responsibility. of incarnations; we then see how, if an incarnation Sixth.-The belief in the transmigration of the soul constitutesa divinity, their pantheon is overflowing. of man intoother forms of life is another of the If a great teacherarise, he is liable tc deification, cardinal tenets of the Hindu-that the human soul is either during his life or after his death. re-born into the world forfurther probation, maybe Vishnu had ten incarnations,the eighth being the L underworse conditions, maybe under better. The re- most popular (thatof Krishna), and yet he was a birth may be into a lower animal or into a plant, and bestial incarnation of lust,and is said to have had may be again into human form, higher or lower than sixteenthousand wives. Vishnu andShiva are both in the previous birth. The Brahman priests are twice- more popular gods than Brahma, who is looked upon bornand of course,into higher conditions. This as arbitraryand unapproachable. It is said there is twice-born condition places them far above the un- only one temple in India dedicated to Brahma. Shiva fortunate once-born mortal. theRestorer is greatly honored with temples in all Seventh.-They believe when a child is born the parts of the country. The blood-thirsty, black-tongued Deity sketches its destiny on its forehead. The child’s wife of Shiva,Kali orDurga (Position 47), is future is therebydetermined, or I may sayprede- greatlyfeared, and her favor anxiouslysought, as termined,therefore all that comes topass in the life you will realize if you visit her temple in Calcutta of that child is inevitable ; this is the fatalism of the and witness the daily slaughter of goats to appease her, Hindus, or shall I saythe predestination of Hindu- and to secure her favor. ism ? A devout Hindu will say :-“It is written,” Fourth.-They believe in Maya. The term Maya and that is his pious ultimatum. Fatalism, predestina- I 366 INDIA THROUCII TIIE STEREOSCOPE RELIGION-MOHAMMEDANS 367

tion and foreordination are against the doctors, as in mere nominal allegiance to Hinduism was notdif- cases of sickness they are not employed, and medi- ficult to exchange for a time-serving allegiance to the cines are not used; because “It is written”that the religion of the invaders. patient must die or rccovcr.* Islamhas always received her greatest accessions whereignorance moe: prevails-in darkAsia and MOFI AM MEDANS ( 62,458,077) darkestAfrica. In the illtlmined west it scarcelyap- Islam is sometimcs called a missionary religion, but pears at all. The followers of the self-proclaimed there is probably no part of the world where it prevails Prophet of India show how Islam flourishes in a which has bcen won to that faith by any sort of true landcontaining so great a percentage of illiteracy. nrissionary influcnce. Scholarly men like Bishop Thoburn, who has lived Wherever the Mohammedans have been conquerors long in the country, believe that the influence of the theterms of surrender on thepart of thcir cncmics Mohammedan character on the Hindu is unfavorable. have usually included an acceptance of thefaith of When good and great men, like the Emperor Akbar, Islam. It has always bcen a military and militant re- appear in a nation’s history we are too prone to con- ligion, converting with thc sword rathcr tlml with sidersuch mcn as aproduct of the religionwith thc Koran. Duringthc hloslcm invasions of India, which they have been identified ; this is obviously quite when they sought spoils ratllcr th1 to bccome the erroneous. Corrcct judgment must be based on rules, permanent rulcrs, thcre was no attempt macle to force and not exceptions to rules ; and, judging Islam from their religion upon thc conquercd races. It was w11e11 general effects, the conclusions are unfavorabIe. The the dream of an Indian empire possessed the miml of Nloslenl is astronger character than the Hindu, but thc conqueror, that Islam became permanently estal)- his nlorality is lower. Intelligent Hindus tell us that lished in India. thcrc was no scclusion of women before the time of Invasionsoccurred during severalhundred years the Mol~ammeclaninvasions ; and the teachings of the before the Mohammedan empire was established, ant1 Koran willconfirm suchallegations. There may be beforethe Moslem religion became one of the great points of identity between Mohammedanism and religions of India;and probably in no part of the Christianity, but the doctrines of the former are drawn world have the Mohammedansfound so reluctant an more from Judaism than from Christianity. acceptance of their religion asamong the Hindus; The Theism of Mohammedanism is often com- whatthey failed to achieve by forcethey often suc- mended, butTheism cannot be considered orthodox, ceeded in doing by rewards. The granting of rich re- when it represents Allah, the Divine Unity, as capable wards to local headsand to thoseseeking office of countenancingflagrant sin forthe sake of His brought great numbers to avow the conquerors’ faith ; prophet but it must be remembered that even at the time of the Some detailed accounts of Mohammedanforms of Great Mogul reign? not all India was under the worship are given on pages 43-45 and 249 in connec- Crescent.Poverty, in those early days the same as tion with Positions 8 and 76 in our itinerary. in these latter days encourages apostasy from the old As to comparison between the respective merits of faithand willingness to accept a new. This was the Hinduismand Mohanlmcdism, I will hereinsert a case in India when the masses were poor and scarcely statement from an eminent authority :-“Be the cause had any choice in thematter of religion; besides, a what it may, as a matter of fact, the Mohammedans broughtwith them into India one or two nameless *For sonle observations regardmg religious forms and customs among mod- sins, which €Iindus to this day affirm had never been em Hindus. see pages 159. 191,307. etc. the pages 3460. known in theircountry before. As a generalrule,

I I

m RELIGION-MOHAMMEDANS,BUDDHISTS 369 368 INDIA THROUGH THE STERI’OSCOPE idolatry;it recognizes earlierprophets, as Adam, their moral standard is a little lower than that of the Noah,Abraham, Moses, andJesus, as Ishmaeland Hindus, and thesame remark will have to be madc otherminor ones-all forerunners of Mohammed. It with reference to their general reputation for morality. acknowledges the angels Gabriel and Michael, Azrael Many good ancl sincere 171~11,no doubt, are found in theangel of death,and Israfil who is to sound the the hIohan~n~cdanranks ; butwhere we speakabout trumpetat thelast day; also the fallen angelsand the people as a grcat con~munity, and comparcthcm their prince Eblis (Satan) ; it recognizes the genii as with thcir I1 indu ncigl~bors,the advantage certainly a class of beings inferior to the angels; it asserts the scems to rest with the latter. In fairncss I oughtto fall of Satan and the fall of Adam,a heaven and a say that some of my missionary fricntls in India take hell, and a final judgment to come. issue with lm on this point. Somc of tllcnl believe TheKoran notes theNoachian flood, Sodom and and ~naintainthat the ’I\Iohammetlans arc quite as Gomorrah, Isaacand Jacob; the guilt of Pharaoh good as, if notbcttcr than the I Tindus ; btlt I be- and the plagues of Egypt;the rod of Aaron;the lieve 1 cxprcss thc opinion of thc majority-and a golden calf;the mannaand thequails; David and very largc majority-when I say that the IIindus stand Goliath; Job, Jonahand Solomon-all thosestories higher in pint of moral character than tl~cR4ohaln- are found in theKoran, and we readily see that, if Illedaus, and that they have suffered rather than bene- all which is obviously takenfrom theJudaic and iìtcd, from a moral point of vicw, by the introduction Christian Bible be substracted from the Koran,there of R.lohamrnctlallistn illto thc country. will not be much left to credit to the authorship of “Every one knows that the sacred book of the Mo- Allah’s prophet. hammedans is callcd theKoran or Alcoran. or we Interpreters say thatthe mostexcellent moral in may call it the Mohammedan Bible. One of the most the whole Koran is this :-“Show mercy, do good to remarkable features of the Koran is the extraordinary all, and dispute not with the ignorant.” excellence of its literary composition. It is universally allowcd to be written with the utmost elegancc and BUDDHISTS (9,476,759) purity of language,.in the dialect of the tribe of Kore- There is so much thatis mythical anduncertain ish, the most noble and polite of all the Arabians, but aboutBuddhism andBuddha that onehesitates to with some mixture,though very rarely, of thcother enter upon any discussion of the subject. Legend and dialects. It is confessedly the standard of the Arabic history seem to be so intermingled that definite knowl- tongue, ancl, as themore orthodox believe andare edge is scarcely obtainable. OriginallyBuddha seems taught by the book itself, inimitable by anyhuman to have been a Hindu deity, an incarnation or nani- pm (though some sectaries have been of other opin- festation of Vishnu whose purpose was, as the story ion) andtherefore insisted on as apermanent mira- goes, to inculcate a universal scepticism againstthe clc, greater than that of raising the dead. and alone teachings of the Vedas. sufficient to convincc the world of its divine origin.” In 623 B. C. there was born a prince whose royal Afohammed hilnself challcnged all the great Arabic name was Sidtlartha,and whose family name was writcrs of his timc to l)~-o(lucca singlechapter com- Gautama. Hisfather was KingSuddhodana who parable to it. Herewithare presented a few of the. ruled over an Aryan tribe. PrinceSiddartha was leadin? features of t11c Koran :-the two paramount born at a place one hundred miles northeast of dogmas of theKoran are the assertion of theunity Benaresand forty miles fromthe Himalayas, called of God and the apostleship of Mohammed in the well- Kapilavastu. This prince is he who has come to be known declaration :-“There is no God but Allah, and known as Buddha, the founder of the Buddhistic re- Xlol~a~ntneclis HisProphet.” Thc Koran denouilces

I 370 ,INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE RELIGION-BUDDHISTS 371 figion. The two names are generallyconfounded. The original Buddha was purely a mythical char- jungle. A deva (spirit) had appeared to himin four acter, asafore mentioned, an alleged incarnation of different forms-a decrepit old man ; a sick mm; a Vishnu, while Gautama is generally looked upon as an decaying corpse; and a dignifiedhermit. He had historic personage. This confounding of the Hindu been reared in a palace and never allowed to see such mythical Buddha with Gautama, the prince of Kapila- things, and he was profoundly agitated. By long vastu, may have led to the conclusion that the real continued meditation in the jungle-so he thought- founder of Rnddhism was only mythical. There are he might learn the cause of sorrow and the nature those who believe Christ a mythical and not a historic of man. One night, when all were asleep in the palace, being. There seems to be the samedoubt as to the hetook a last look at hissleeping wife and child, real personality of Gautama,usually called Buddha. mountedhis horse and rode far away to the jungle No doubt there are manywho look upon Gautama of Uruwela wherewere wise hermits, whose pupil (Buddha)as a heathen god; this is erroneous. The hebecame, in order to reach the highest knowledge old Buddha incarnation of Vishnu may justly be re- for which he was in search. These hermits were wise garded as a heathen deity; but the Buddhists of to- Brahmins who taught that by penance and torture a . day do not consider Gautama a god, only a man with man could acquire perfect wisdom. perfected spiritual elevation, which they call Nàrvana. He followed their philosophy but found that it The term Buddha signifiesenlightenment, and one availed .nothing; so he wentdeeper into the forest who has reached the highest wisdom (Nirvana) is near a place called Buddha Gaya, where he spent sev- called “a Buddha.” It was in this way that Gautama eral yearsin meditation and fasting. He keptaway himself received the name Buddha. How Gautama at- from every form of distraction that might interrupt tained to the perfected state of soul which is called his reflections ; he reduced his food until he ate little Nirvana makes one of the most interesting features of more than a grain of rice a day; he became so weak Buddhism. The followingis a briefoutline of the that hefell down unconscious. 8 When he recovered- story of Buddha (Gautama) with some of the funda- the thought came to him that knowledgecould not mental truths of a religion which has more followers be gained by fasting or bodily suffering. than any other religion in the world. After heregained his strength, hebathed in the . The king (Gautama’s father) built the prince three river, went into the jungle again, and placed himself palaces surrounded by oriental magnificence. In his under a.peepul-tree where he determined to remain sixteenth year Gautama was married to Princess till hereached Buddhaship. He sat through the night , Yasodhara, daughter of King Suprabuddha. Many facing the east. The knowledge of his previous beautiful maidens skilled in music and dancing were births came to him, and the way to extinguish desire. employed to entertain him. He had wonderful natural . Just before dawn on the following morning, his mind endowments, so that from Chik?hmd he seemcd to became clearly opened like the full blown lotus-flower ; ulderstand al1 art and science by intuition ;yet he left the light of supreme knowledge, or the Four Truths his wife and child and all his princely surroundings came to him, and he there became Buddha, The En- lightened-The All-knowing. to discover the cause of all human suffering, and how to escape therefrom. His followers think that no one At Iast he had discovered the cause of human sor- ever sacrificed so much for truth: this is why Budd- row and the way to perfect peace of mind, or true hists so love him, and why good Buddhists try to be happiness. He had gone through a terrible struggle; like him. he had had to conquer all natural defects and human was twenv-nine years old when he entered the appetites and desireswhich prevent us from seeing He the truth. He learned that the cause of all suffering \ 372 INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE e - I-.-_- thoughtful, beholy. Keep steadfast, watch over your is ignorance. Gautama was now a Buddha-ne with I % an illuminated mind-so he knew the cause of all ,.-. .-. own hearts. He who holds fasttheto lawand dis- humansuffering; this wisdom gave a knowledge of cipline, and faints not, shall cross the Ocean I of life, the “Four Noble Truths” as follows :- and make an end of sorrow. . . . The world is (l) The misery of existence. fast bound in fetters. I nowgive it deliverance, as (2) False hopes and illusory desires. a physician who brings heavenly medicine. Keep your (3) The estrangementof one’sself from thcse mind on my teaching. All other things change. This hopes and desires. changes not; no more shall I speak to you. I desire (4) The means of obtainingthis estrangement of to depart; I desire the eternal rest.” desire. Manycenturies ago, Hinduism gained an ascend- Buddha told the world that some of the causes ency over Buddhism inIndia, and then thelatter of humansorrow are-birth, growth, decay, illness, spreadand extended over Ceylon, Burma,Thibet, death,separation from objects welove, hatingwhat China and Japan. Whilethe number of Buddhists cannot be avoided, craving for whatcannot beob- in India now reaches something over 9,000,000, the tained. Hefurther taught that man may overcome number in the whole world is said to exceed even the sorrows of life by following the Noble-Eight-fold 500,000,000. Path which he discovered and pointed out. The eight ANIMISTS (8,584,148) parts of this are :- i (l) Right belief, There are many half-wild tribes in India scattered (2) Right thought, overthe mountain regions and among higher,waste (3) Right speech, hill-lands, who are classed generally as aborigines. (4) Right doctrine, Theseprimitive races bearabout the same relation (5) Right means of living, to the other peoples of India as the American Indians (6) Right endeavor, do to the European inhabitants of America. (7) Right memory, In theCentral Provinces there is a very ancient (8) Right meditation. tribe called theKhonds; they are sun-worshippers, 1 and in early times theymade human sacrifices. A The man who keeps these in mind and follows them tribe in Bengal believes in a supreme being called Sing will be freefrom sorrow and may reach salvation Bora who is represented by the sun, the moon being (Nirvana). his wifeand thestars his daughters;this tribe is After many years of seclusion in the jungle, Gautama known asthe Kols. Other tribes arethe Bhils and returned, a beggar with a shaven head, in coarse rai- Gonds;in Assam arethe Garos, Khasis and Negas. ment, ,carrying in his hand a begging bowl. He found In the north are the Bhutias who profess to be fol- his wife still alive, and the infant he left in his palace lowers of Buddha or the Llama. afull-grown man. The peepul-tree under which he Some tribes have a religion which rudely embodies attainedNirvana has become a sacred tree over the thefaith and ceremonials of the great religions- Buddhistic world.* Hinduism, Mohammedanism or Buddhism. The religion of the many half-civilized races, taken Gautama died in 543 B. C. at eighty years of age. collectively, is called Animism. The generalfeatures His lastnight was spcnt in comfortinga weeping of Animism are a recognition of a SupremeBeing; disciple. His last words were :-“Be earnest, be a belief inspirits which requirepropitiation; bloody See pages I 75-6. offerings;the performance of wild worship dances. INDIA THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE 374 BELIGfON-JAINS ; PARSEES . 375

,

Palaces 180 242 280. Tagore. Maharajah of, 180. Parseea: 23. '26,.976. Tal Mahal, 217. Pasbes mountam 333. Tamils. 306. Peed-tree 176 '371 372. Penances 6s .led, Phb-dopd ms'titutlons, 23. 288, 303. ampanies 110 Photography, Modemdislike of, 45, fehaneir h 3i7 W- Jewels &t & buiidinns. 226. P6-k.religiaru, 191, 308. Pb.the. 337. PO*tirn '327- 357. Poree (PUA) 367. . Portuguese A India..-- 16. 39. 360. Povefiy 48 Thugs 18. Tigers' Prayers,' Mdhammedan. 43. 249. ' 106 179 364. Products 332 Tiitha;l&s li2 376. punkahs: 242; 335. Tomb, -3st 'bea&ifd in the world, 137. YIW. Railwe stetion, finest in the world. Tomba. Mohemmedan, 236. h. Raiafoll 228 331, 336. Ramissemram,'323. Reets 279 Re&&&, W, 290, a66. Rellglons: More 64. Animists' 373 Lalla lbcll, 85. Buddhish. 36b. corka40 *m. W. Lawrence, Sir 'Henry, 214. 238. I Lucknow. 211. Lytton. 120. Parsees 26 SiS. Lord. sikhs ii9 $74. Madies m1 Residents' Bdti~h359. MaduraD 316 Rest-ho&, 101, '103, 123. oi urnere. 8~. Rice 333 Gwahor. 243. Ricl;shawi 110 111 emore; 286. Rock of "richiiopol~,310. 4agcm 180. Rock-cut temples 37 40. Mahrattrrs(baerethas1 m, a12,3 49. Rosaries, use of, i6d Manikamika Kund i91. Map study 13 32f. sacred Animals 166 289 Massacre a't dwnpore. 206. SaCridce of goats ldl 2i4. 'Mecca 43 saints reverence'for, '54, 172, 376. M!l~tab. &e, 117, 369, 374. %ale Af maps 327. Mdk su ly, 133. Schools 61 380. Millet R 383 Secta&& 173. Misai&s Chziskan, 378. Seppy Rebeliion. 204, 211, 263, 363. Mo Is '23 346 Senngham, 314. Mo!kÙne&s, b,07,227,346,366. Shah Jehan, 219, 230, 247, 347. Monkeys 104 107 113 288 Shawls Cashmere 80 84. Monamni llb 2d 33& 336. Shiva,.'aS,. 168, 363, $64. Moomfa$i-M&l als. Shopprng m Indu 118. I Moslems h India, 346. Siege of Delhi 2& Mosque largest h world, 247. Lucknow '212. Mount h€nl 48 66 Sikandarah $31. Mountah Als'of 'Indie. 330. sikhs, the, '69, 269. 374. Music native 93: Sdence Tower of, 29. Muti&. the 'Inalan, 204, 211, 239, Simla '103 24% 281 353. sipi &r ios Neldera, 120: si~eof india' 327. Nana dhib 204 360 Snekes 147. Nan& bulls' 306' 311: Sqlornok Throne of, 70. Native St&s 3b6. 369, 360. Srmagar 78. Nima, 370,' 372. Stuçco, tse of, 68, 284. . _. I. HOLLMD TOUR4iving 24 poaitione,qIanat.org notea on backe of stere- ographs, and caae. IRDU TOUR-Giving 100 pfteitione guide book by Prof. Jamæ Rioalton, 383 pagea cloth ten Underwood tent ma and c888 to cl,,hm&e Togr a part o&e India?our)-Gi&g 27 poeitio~, gude book by Prof. &chton, five Underwood patent maps and we. UNDERWOOD IRELAND TOUR-Gi 100 positions, guide book by Charles Johnston, 262 pageu cloth savm~nd-ood patent mepa and caae Queenstbwn, dark. and Dublin Tour (a art of the Irelkd Tour)-Giving 36 poaltlons, gude book by Cbarlee jbhnaton, three Underwood pateat STEREOSCOPIC TOURS maps and ce. ITALY TOUR-Gi m 100 positions 'de book by D. J. Ellieon D.D., and Prof. Jam- C-bert, Jr., 802 pagee, cloth, ten hderwood patautma and- P&.r Rome Tour c part of the Italy Tour -Guide book by Dr. Ellison and Prof. Egbert, 310 P-, cloth, five dnderwd patent mape and 0~88. The Unde& Stereoempic Tours are put up in neat Volume Casea or JUCATOUR-Givhg 24 poeitione and mm. Underwood Exfanaion Cabinets and tho stereographed places are a&ed in the order in which a touw. &ht visit tho actual scenw. Note that them am all Ongmel Stereograph, not ep, lee To acoom any these Toure we recorpmend pur kktieth Century" Alum+um &hogany Ste.mcap. A hlgher-pnced atereoecope can be fur- . mhed d deaired.

AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEACAllD TOUR-Giving 100 paeitione, and 0~~18. AUSTRU TOUR-Giving 84 positions, and cm. BELGIUB! TOlJR+3iving 24 positions, explanatory nota on backe of stem- ograpk, and 0888. BURMA TOQR-Giving M) positione, and c-. NORWAY TOUR-Giving 100 pitione. guide book edited bp Prof. Jdiu CAHADA TOUR-Giving 1'2 pitione, explenatory notem on bacle of stereo- E. Oh,PhD., 372 P-, atUnderwood patent mawand onm. graphs, and ow. CEYLON TOTJR-Qiving 30 positiona. exphtory nota on backs of stam- graphs, and caee. CRILD-S TOUR-("Real Children in Ma Lends") Giving 18 p&- tione, 222 pagea, cloth, guide book by M. S.%mery. and case.

CUBA and PORTO RICO TOlJR-Giving 100 positione, and DENMARK TOUR-Giving 30 positions, and aase. ECUADOR TOUR-Giving 42 positions, and c-. EGYPT TOUR-ivmf lOOpltions, eylanatory notea on baoks of eterab PILGRIMAGE TO SEE THE HOLY FAV-Qiving 36 podtio~,guide gra hs gude boo by rof James . Breeeted, PhD., 380 pageus,010th. book by Rev. Father John Talbot Snuth, U.D., two Undemwod patent ancftwknty Underwood patent mapa and me. maps and oasm BnGLAnD TOUR4iviog 100 poeitione, and cam. FRANCE TOUR-Giving 100 positione, aplenatory notea on baoke of etereo- graphs, and cese. GERMAZIY ToUR-Givhg 100 poeitions, explenatory notea on backa of ntereographe, and cem. G2AND CANYON OF AZUZONA TOUR-Giving 18 positions, guide book, two Undedpatent mapa and ceae. GREECE TOWR-Giving 100 positions 'de book by Prof. Rufus B. Rich- ardeon, PhD., 383 pm,010th. fi/%- Underwood patent maps and Cm. A~~IBMTOW (a part of the Qwece Tour -Giving 27 podtione, guide book by Prof. Rjohsrdsoo, four Underwood qateslt maps and onse.

I SICILY TOUR-Giving 54 poaitiona, and case. WHAT SAY THE SPAIN TOUR-Giving 100 positioas, and cae. PATRONS OF ST. PIERRE and MORT PELEE TOUR-Giving 18 oeitione UNDERWOOD TRAVEL the celebrated traveler, George Kennan, three I?nderwo$$e?;$ and case. SYSTEM SWEDEN TOUR-Gi\ing 100 poeitions, explanatory notes on backe of stem- ographa, and case. G. S. Can, M.D., Editor Columbus Medical Journal. SWITZERLAND TOUR-Giving 100 poaitions, guide book by M. S. Emery, " I boatof one of your men ten of your stereoscopic tours with boob 274 pagea cloth eleven Underwood patent maps and case Bernese Alp; Tou; (a part oi Lhe Switzerland Tour)--Civiag 27 positions, and maps. The books are superb. I value them very highly. I feel sure uidt? hook,thrcc atent ma Imd.cacle. if people would carefully peruse such books, making use of the charts, maps La%e.LueerneTour & part of tge Switzerland Tour)-Giving 11 pwitions, and stereographs, they would be much better posted than the actualtraveler. guide book, three patent maps and case. Mont Blanc Tour (a part of the Switzerland Tour)-Giving 23 poaitiona, My enthusiasm cundng your stereographs is almost unbounded. I have guide book two patent maps and case already the Switzerland, India, Ch,Holland, Italy, Greece, Palestine, Zermatt Tour'@ part of the Switaerland Tour)-Giving 15 goaitiona, guide Russia, Egypt, Ireland, Washington, D. C., Martinique and Grand Canyon. - book, two patent maps and caae. I wi& to inquire if you have any othercountries that are complete with boob . " TRAVEL LESSORS OR TEE LIFE OF JESUS "4iving 38 poeitions, with and maps? If you have 0th" I wish to purchaas them of you." corn lete hand-book, 230 pagea, cloth, by Rev. Wm. Byron Forbuah, Ph.&, four Underwood patent maps and cme. Mrs. W. W.Stark, Athens, Ga. " TRAVEL LESSoFfS ON THE OLD TESTAMENT "-Giving 61 poaitìons " We have recently purchased ' 'haveling in the Holy Land though the wlth corn lete hand-book, 211 pagea, cloth, b Rev. Wm. Byron Fok Stereoscope,' with book and maps. We are perfectly delighted with it. I bush, Ph.!&, four Underwood patent mapa anlcaae. am certainly enjoying the stereogxapha and the study in connection with UNITED STATm TOF-Giving 100 itiona explanatory notes on backa them. I don't aee how any parentswith children could afford to be without of atereographa, gude book, clotEour dnderwood patent mapa and them. I am having my Ir-year-old little &l place the scenes and tell us the case. Bible history in cwnection with each one. I expect her to accomplish this UHITED STATES TOUR NO. 2 (compriaing 0:S. Tour No. 1 and the special in lem than a year. She is now tahgthree scenea a week in connection with toure of' Waahlngton Grand Canyon Niagara FallaYellowstone and her school atudiea and music. As myself, I expect to know more Bible Yosemite, ell duplioe'tee omitted)-dving 200 poaitibne, six boob and for cases. history then in all my life befm I bought the stereographs. I want to add to my library until I have atnost every country on tbe globe mkd. I WASEUNGTOR D. C., TOUR4i 42 positions, guide book by Rufue already the order for Egypt." Rockwd fviin, 178 pages, c%, four Underwood patent mapa and have gi+ 0888. Joseph B. Widen, St. Louis, Mo. YELLOWsTOlpE NATIONAL PARK TOUR-Gi 30 mitions explana- " Aa you am,I have pretty near 5;ooo your stereographs. I am tory notea on backs of atereographa, guide cloth, an dnderwood are of patent map andcam. a, enchhganother order on separate sheet. I. I UhIy due your stereographs, boob and maps. I want my collection to beaa complete and in ES perfect YOSEMITE VALLEY TOuR--Giving 24 poaitions, guide book by Charlea Q order poasible; the vim that I have iifty-two drawers cabinets. Turner, au Underwood patent map andcaae. as fill of your Kindly Saip me the stereographs requeated at aa early a date m possible, and I wish you would kindly eend me from time to time list of new vim and . Other intematkg and instructive tourn can be made up from the large col- guide boola, that you get out. You are at liberty to offer me ES referenceat lection of O etereo rapha alwaya in stock- complete list of other toure will be furn%$on app%cation. New guide doolœ, written by authoritiee anytime~etoddeakabilityofhavingecompletek'biaryofyarvbeautiful on eeoh country am bang added each year. touft3." We +vise cua¿omem to purchase eomplete tourn on the countriea that the map be mteraeted m One hundred stewogra bed placeg of one count wif generally givemuoh better eatisfaction than tfe same number scatteJover Rev. Solon C. Bronson, D.D.,Garrett Biblical Institute. several countriea. Many of our atroas are placing all of our educational "your -um c4 *vel studì- at hand. I he~eW fm some years tours in their horn= alongside the'etanderd works on those countries. your studies in the Life Jesus, and everg year L my class in pedagogy have Schools-and publio librariea are.turninOF more and more to the etereqmpe to of put their studentsand readem In touct with the actual placee of whlch th exhibited and teated these studies with my dudenta in the Seminary. I are studying. The United States Government .conaidered them 80 valuab% how of no other method of teaching more helpful in Sunday School work." that. ell edupeEiona1 tours ubhhed to date, =th the new Underwood Ex- hionCabmet, wem purcLed for the United Stat@ Military Aoademy at George Rankin, Librarian, Public Library, River, Weet Point. W. Fall Mass. "We a& in receipt of the toure derd Nov. 16th. I am much pleesed UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD with thia neweat addition to our collection of stereographs; they posseas a 3-5 West 19th Stre!&, Cor. Fifth Avenue, New York high educational value. The descriptive books and mapa ere so valuable an adjunct that they should be a part of and accompany esch set of Stireo- LONDON,ENGLAND TORONTO, CANADA O'M'AWA, KANSAS grsphs." I

Prof. Mark Jefferson, Ypsilanti Normal School.

" The stereoscopes and stereographs ordered have been received in good order. I am using stereographs more every term. My conviction grows that the stereoscope is a great means of teaching geography." Rev. W. P. Swartz, Ph.D., Poughkeepsie, N. Y.

" We use with all the classes in turn the stereographs and maps of the Holy Land, which we purchased several years ago from you. We have in our school what we call Llle department for the study of Bible lands, and into it each class comes for its instruction by a teacher who, with his assistant, teaches this subject to all the classes in the Sunday School, beginning with the intermediate department up. We find the equipment very valuable, as it gives a reality to the Bible story, PUTS IT UPON THE EARTH AMONG MEN, and separates it from the realm of the fairyland of the child's world, making the Bible narrative truthfor to-day and for us." Rev. Richard Burgess,General Secretary India S. S. Union, says :

" The lantern slide, map, object, curio, etc., have their special advantagea as educators, but these stereographs, combined with the unique system of patent maps, givingthe sense of location and direction looking, together with the well-written guide-books, are capable, in my judgment, of becoming, to one who uses them thoughtfully, not a substitutefor travel merely, but travel itself in the highest sense of the term." In this country and England hundreds of educators urge the use of the stereoscope. Dr. Winship, Editor of The Jour- vuzl of Education, declares:

" It is as absurd to study history or geography without adequate first- hand experhe of seeing places, things and people with the lifelàke realism of thstereoscope, as to study natural sciences without a laboratory. Sense ex- perience should be the foundation stone of mind-building." George J. Smith, Ph.D., Board of School Examiners, New York, states : "In late years there haa been perfected something that, in my judg- ment, goes ahead of ordinary pictures, and quenches the mind's thirst for the concrete almost as completely BS the very object before the bodily sight. I refer to the stereograph. Even the best pictures we still feel to be but pic- tures; they do not create the illusions of reality. solidity, depth. ' The best in this kind are but ehadows.' But with the stemkcope thewondix of ph* tography is brought to ita culmination." The Underwood Stereographs have been placed on the supply lists of New York, Philadelphia and other city echools. UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD 3 Ad 5 West 19th St., Cm. 5th Ave., New York Ci