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Downloaded From: Usage Rights: Creative Commons: Attribution-Noncommercial-No Deriva- Tive Works 4.0 Chappell, Georgina (2018) An investigation into the influence of the avant- garde, bohemia and modernism on women’s fashion and lifestyle, 1919 – 1929, with particular reference to Eve magazine. Masters by Research thesis (MA), Manchester Metropolitan University. Downloaded from: https://e-space.mmu.ac.uk/621949/ Usage rights: Creative Commons: Attribution-Noncommercial-No Deriva- tive Works 4.0 Please cite the published version https://e-space.mmu.ac.uk AN INVESTIGATION INTO THE INFLUENCE OF THE AVANT-GARDE, BOHEMIA AND MODERNISM ON WOMEN’S FASHION AND LIFESTYLE, 1919 – 1929, WITH PARTICULAR REFERENCE TO EVE MAGAZINE GEORGINA CHAPPELL A thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements of the Manchester Metropolitan University for the degree of Master of Arts (by Research) Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester School of Art Manchester Metropolitan University October 2018 Page 1 of 162 ABSTRACT This study identifies the influence of the avant-garde, modernism and Bohemia on women’s lifestyle and fashion in the decade immediately following the First World War. Existing research concentrates on the influence individual art movements had, seen in styles, or changes seen in the commercial world. This research shows that influence was more wide-ranging than individual manifestations in style and, taken as a whole, was instrumental in the widespread uptake of what many felt to be shocking new fashions. This research discusses three main strands of importance. These were the merging of Bohemia and the avant-garde in the public’s mind, the influence of what is now called lifestyle modernism and the part played by Eve magazine. Eve helped to make the avant-garde seem approachable. It also managed to normalise such styles as cross- gender dressing whilst ensuring that they were still recognised as potentially shocking. The study features Eve’s introduction of an avant-garde construct, the first of the type, in the character of Eve. Several scholars talk extensively about these avant-garde constructs, but the persona of Eve is never considered in research on fictional role- models of the time. Throughout, the importance of a new attitude to life is highlighted. The research has concentrated on Eve magazine, as an under-researched and under- appreciated source from the period. It has established its importance at the time. It has also identified its nuanced avant-garde content as contributing to more widespread acceptance of the avant-garde. It has opened up the field of research by identifying a more wide-ranging influence on everyday life by the avant-garde than has been so far recognised, as well as the importance of Eve. Page 2 of 162 An investigation into the influence of the avant-garde, Bohemia and modernism on women’s lifestyle and fashion, 1919 – 1929, with particular reference to Eve magazine. Academic Aims 1. To examine the avant-garde content of Eve magazine alongside its standard fashion pages 2. To investigate the merging of the idea of Bohemia with the avant-garde in the public mind in the period 3. To assess the role of lifestyle modernism in influencing daily life and fashion Page 3 of 162 Contents 1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................... 5 1.1 The Study ............................................................................................................... 5 1.2 The Avant-Garde, Bohemia and Modernism .......................................................... 9 1.3 The Demise of Bohemia .......................................................................................12 1.4 Eve as Case Study ...............................................................................................18 2 Literature Review ................................................................................................................25 2.1 Art Influencing Fashion and Lifestyle ...................................................................25 2.2 The Influence of Specific Art Movements .............................................................32 2.3 Fashionable Life in London and Paris ..................................................................34 2.4 Other Influences ...................................................................................................35 3 Methodology .......................................................................................................................36 3.1 Process .................................................................................................................36 3.2 Literary Research .................................................................................................37 3.3 Archival Research ................................................................................................39 3.4 Limitations .............................................................................................................40 4 Bohemian and Avant-Garde Ideas in Eve ..........................................................................41 4.1 Bohemian Life in Eve ............................................................................................41 4.2 Bohemian Artifice .................................................................................................51 4.3 The Avant-Garde in Eve .......................................................................................54 5 Lifestyle Modernism ............................................................................................................67 5.1 Cocteau’s influence ..............................................................................................68 5.2 The Ordinariness of London Life ..........................................................................74 5.3 Interior Design ......................................................................................................77 5.4 Ballet .....................................................................................................................84 5.5 Clubs and Dancing ...............................................................................................90 5.6 Art-nègre influence on Lifestyle Modernism .........................................................93 6 The Promotion of Avant-Garde Types ................................................................................98 6.1 The Heroine in Fiction ..........................................................................................99 6.2 The Heroine in Fashion ......................................................................................102 6.3 The Real-life Avant-Garde Heroine ....................................................................113 7 Androgynous Style ............................................................................................................120 7.1 Avant-garde androgyny: cross-dressing .............................................................121 7.2 Degenerate Boys ................................................................................................123 7.3 Degenerate Women ...........................................................................................131 8 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................142 9 References ........................................................................................................................145 10 Illustration References ......................................................................................................153 11 Bibliography ...................................................................................................................... 156 Page 4 of 162 1 Introduction This study investigates the influence of the avant-garde on women’s fashion and lifestyles, with particular reference to the part played by Eve magazine in disseminating avant-garde ideas. The merging of the concepts of Bohemia and the avant-garde will be discussed. This will be followed by consideration of lifestyle modernism’s influence. It will be shown to have particularly favoured English sensibilities. The importance of avant-garde role-models is demonstrated, in particular Eve’s invention of an avant-garde character. Finally, Eve’s part in popularizing androgynous dress as an avant-garde attitude will be discussed. The nature of Bohemia as presented in Eve will be determined, along with the idea of a Bohemian or avant-garde attitude. 1.1 The Study The study is confined to 1919 – 1929. Breward warns against limiting study of fashion by means of ‘decadism’ which might be arbitrary and ‘unconnected to historical events’ (1995:185). An explanation for the chosen dates is therefore given. Eve began publication in November 1919 and ran until 1929. Other significant events make this period appropriate for the study. The First World War brought great change to women’s lives. Many joined the workforce, bringing greater financial independence (White, 1970:93). It has been argued that this, along with Suffragette activity, altered women’s lives to such an extent that changes in clothing should hardly surprise (Lussier, 2003:8). The Peace Conference began in Paris in January 1919, with the first Armistice Day following in November (Briggs, 1962:294). Winning the right to vote in 1918 added to a sense of renewal and freedom. The period includes much of the Ballets Russes’ activity, ending with the death of Diaghilev, who was amongst the most
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