The Soy Candle Making Book Preview
By Melissa Hall
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The information contained in this book is for informational purposes only.
Any advice including legal or financial, that I give is my opinion based on my own experience. You should always seek the advice of a professional before acting on something that I have published or recommended.
Since candle making involves wax, oils and heat, please understand that it is more of a risky hobby or business. I cannot be held responsible for any harm or damages to yourself or property, that may occur while you are making your candles while using recipes and advice from this book. You agree to use due caution when working around melting wax on the heat source, and while burning your candles.
Please understand that there are some links contained in this guide that I may benefit from financially. The material in this book may include information, products or services by third parties. Third Party Materials comprise of the products and opinions expressed by their owners. As such, I do not assume responsibility or liability for any Third Party material or opinions. The publication of such Third Party Materials does not constitute my guarantee of any information, instruction, opinion, products or services contained within the Third Party Material. The use of recommended Third Party Material does not guarantee any success and or earnings related to you or your business. Publication of such Third Party Material is simply a recommendation and an expression of my own opinion of that material.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the publisher, addressed “Attention: Permissions Coordinator,” at the address below.
©2014 Melissa Hall. All Rights Reserved.
Table of Contents
My Story ...... 9
Preface ...... 13
Understanding Candle Wax ...... 14
Other natural waxes used in candle making...... 15
Pros and Cons of Soy Wax ...... 15
About the Ingredients ...... 17
Soy Wax ...... 17
Types of Soy Wax ...... 20
Fragrance Oils ...... 25
Soy Candle Fragrance List ...... 30
Wicks ...... 32
Wick Types and Sizes ...... 35
Jars and Containers ...... 50
Wick Stickers ...... 51
Dye...... 53
Supply List and Other Useful Info ...... 56
Color Mixing Chart ...... 57
Measurement Conversions ...... 59
Burn Times ...... 59
Soy Candle Recipes ...... 60
Soy Jar/Container Candles ...... 61 Wickless Candles ...... 67
Soy Tealights ...... 69
Soy Votives ...... 70
Soy Tarts/Melts ...... 75
Advanced Soy Candle Recipes ...... 77
Vanilla Cake Soy Chunk Candle ...... 77
Layered Soy Container Candles ...... 84
Swirl Candles ...... 87
Sliceable Wax Loaf ...... 93
Soy “Whipped” Frosting ...... 99
Testing Your Soy Candles...... 102
Cleaning Your Equipment ...... 109
Scent Mixing ...... 110
A Few Fragrance Recipes ...... 112
Using Essential Oils ...... 113
Candle Labels ...... 114
Warning Labels...... 114
Decorative Tags and Labels ...... 115
Designing Your Tags ...... 115
Starting a Business ...... 118
Troubleshooting ...... 119
Frosting...... 119
Sink Holes ...... 120 No Hot Throw ...... 121
No Cold Throw ...... 122
Wick Mushroom ...... 122
Melt Pool Too Deep ...... 122
Melt Pool Too Shallow ...... 122
Rough Tops ...... 123
Smoking Wick ...... 123
Wick Won't Stay Lit ...... 123
Color Fading ...... 123
Candle is Tunneling ...... 124
Oil Seeping Out of the Wax ...... 124
Candle Testing Sheets ...... 125
Friends and Family Test Sheets ...... 127
Candle Making Suppliers ...... 128
Suppliers in the USA ...... 128
Alabama...... 128
Alaska ...... 129
Arizona ...... 129
Arkansas ...... 129
California ...... 130
Colorado ...... 130
Connecticut ...... 130
Delaware ...... 130 Florida ...... 131
Georgia ...... 131
Hawaii ...... 131
Idaho ...... 131
Illinois...... 132
Indiana ...... 132
Iowa ...... 132
Kansas ...... 133
Kentucky ...... 133
Louisiana ...... 133
Maine ...... 133
Maryland ...... 134
Massachusetts ...... 134
Michigan ...... 134
Minnesota ...... 134
Mississippi ...... 135
Missouri ...... 135
Montana ...... 136
Nebraska ...... 136
Nevada ...... 136
New Hampshire ...... 136
New Jersey ...... 136
New Mexico ...... 137 New York ...... 137
North Carolina ...... 137
North Dakota ...... 138
Ohio ...... 138
Oklahoma ...... 139
Oregon ...... 139
Pennsylvania ...... 140
Rhode Island ...... 141
South Carolina ...... 141
South Dakota ...... 141
Tennessee ...... 142
Texas ...... 142
Utah ...... 143
Vermont ...... 143
Virginia ...... 143
Washington ...... 144
West Virginia ...... 144
Wisconsin ...... 145
Wyoming ...... 145
Suppliers in Australia ...... 146
NSW ...... 146
Victoria ...... 146
Perth ...... 146 Suppliers in Canada ...... 147
British Columbia ...... 147
Ontario ...... 147
Suppliers in United Kingdom ...... 148
Glossary ...... 149
My Story
I started making soy candles in August of 2008. I have always been looking for work at home opportunities and I've tried several but none had worked out. I build websites but at that time I was still in the process of learning and building a couple sites but not making any money with them yet. I was also painting miniature art cards that I sold on eBay and I did make some money from that, but I was still searching for something else that might bring in more income and build into a possible full time home business. I don't remember how, but I stumbled on to candle making.
I read about and saw pictures of some beautiful carved candles and that sparked the idea about candle making. I am an artist and so I thought “I could learn to do that!” .
Then as I was searching around Google about candle making, I somehow stumbled on to soy candles.
Before this, I always thought soy candles were those gel candles I saw in the store, so I didn't know anything about them! But once I learned a bit about soy candles , I decided the candle carving would be too much work to learn with a lot of supplies to buy, although I thought that sometime in the future I would like try it.
August is my birthday, so I thought I'd buy myself a soy candle making kit off eBay as a kind of birthday present. I found a good price on one with, I think, 5lbs of wax and 5/
1oz fragrance oils, some wicks, and I can't remember what else.
I remember making my first candle which was apple pie, and I was in love! I remember putting the lid on while letting it cure for 24 hours and when I took the lid off, it smelled so wonderful! I couldn't help but keep sniffing it whenever it wasn't lit!
So, after I made a few more candles with my little kit, I went on a search for soy candle suppliers and I started my website. That first website really wasn't much to look at when
I look back on it now, but at the time I thought it looked great! Haha. How much we learn......
I was fortunate to find a soy candle supplier only 45 minutes away from where I live, and after I got the website up in September 2008, I made my first 2 sales in only a month or so!! One of those sales was an order for 5, 8oz candles.
The website had barely gotten listed in Google and I was getting hardly any traffic and I still made a couple sales before Christmas! So I thought, if I'm making sales with this little traffic, how much could I sell if I could get more traffic? And that's what got me going in the candle making business.
Now, I'd like to be able to say that I'm still selling them today, but I am not. I did not quit due to lack of sales and customers, or lack of quality in my candles though. The only reason I quit is because since 2008, each year got busier and busier especially starting at the end of August and on through Christmas. Now, I had two boys when I started in
2008, and my youngest at that time was about 3 and getting easier and so I had a bit more time on my hands, plus sales were not much for awhile.
Then I went and got pregnant again at the beginning of 2009 and had our 3rd boy in
September 2009. Well, with having 3 kids and then starting homeschooling our oldest in 2009 who was in first grade at the time, things started getting crazy, especially during the holidays. I was up late nights making candles and getting them ready to ship or take to the Saturday market, or craft fair, trying to deal with housework and homeschool, spending time with the kids and the hubby and so Christmas time was pretty miserable for me. I felt like I couldn't stop and enjoy
the holidays because I had orders to fill and the house was a mess (more than normal) and my kitchen is so small that it was getting overrun with candle making stuff!
After Christmas in 2011, I was so stressed that I didn't want to make another candle for quite awhile! So in January 2012, I decided to close the business, but I didn't want to completely quit making soy candles. I decided to just make them for myself, family and friends. I also decided that I wanted to get back to working on websites since that was what I enjoyed most and the one consistent thing I've done throughout the years and that I really love and can do with kids around and without making a mess :)
I started back on some other projects that had been on hold while I was doing the candle business and then decided that I could still enjoy sharing about how to make candles by starting a new website specifically for soy candle making and teaching you how to make them and even how to start selling them if that's what you're interested in.
That is my history with soy candle making and my business venture in that. I'm here to tell you, it really can be a profitable business if you have the time. I just happened to have other things that I felt were more of a priority and the candle business was causing me to drop the ball in those other areas, but I know that it can definitely be a wonderful business opportunity and one that you might be able to excel in. But that's not the topic of this book! I'll be writing another book that goes in depth on how to start and grow your own candle making business in the near future.
Preface
Candle making can be an enjoyable hobby, and an excellent way to make custom gifts for friends and family or even provide you with a source of income. It can also be considered a form of art. There are so many kinds and styles of candles, different candle waxes and candles for every occasion.
I am going to show you in this book how to make beautiful candles using soy wax. Every wax behaves differently and uses different techniques in order to come out with the best candles.
I will try to go into as much detail as I can about how to use soy wax, how to test your candles, where to buy supplies, and what might be the cause and solution when something goes wrong.
I hope you enjoy my book, and if you have questions or comments, or you just want to stop in and say hi, you can catch me at www.facebook.com/homemadecandlecreations or visit my website www.soycandlemakingtime.com . Much of the information in this book can also be found in the articles of my website, but this book will allow you to have everything in order and at your fingertips as well as some awesome extras!
Let's Get Started! Understanding Candle Wax
There are many different candle waxes out there, and so there are many different kinds of candles and wax blends. The normal candles you find in the stores are mostly made using paraffin wax which is derived from petroleum. It is debatable whether paraffin wax emits harmful chemicals when burned in a candle. Some say that it does, while others claim that it has been so refined that it is perfectly safe and does not emit any significant amounts of chemicals when burned.
I lean toward using natural wax candles because I would rather be on the safe side.
Below are a few links so you can come to your own conclusions. I will say that soy wax definitely has many other advantages to paraffin which I will talk about further on.
http://candles.org/faqs/ Scroll down to find questions and answers about paraffin wax and it's safety.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/8211543.stm
www.scsu.edu/news_article.aspx?news_id=832 (South Carolina State University research)
www.lead.org.au/lanv7n4/L74-9.html
There are numerous other resources out there about paraffin wax and candle safety and you can just Google “paraffin wax safety” “paraffin wax emissions” “candle carcinogens” etc..... Other natural waxes used in candle making
Palm wax-Is made from palm oil and is not modified
like soy wax is, since it is much easier to turn into wax
than soy. It is a very hard wax, and excellent for votives
and pillars.
Beeswax- probably the most “natural” wax. There is no
need for processing beeswax since it is simply separated
from the honey and is ready to melt and pour! It is the
most expensive natural wax to buy.
Vegetable wax blends
*Palm wax picture courtesy of thecandlemakersstore.com
Pros and Cons of Soy Wax
I'm not going to sugar coat anything here, and I am not going to say that soy wax candles are the “Be all, End all”. For one, I have not yet tried other natural wax candles.
Also, different waxes have their own strengths and weaknesses.
I will say that soy wax has some decided advantages over paraffin wax candles. So lets take a look at the Pros and Cons of soy.
Pros
1. Least expensive natural wax
2. Able to hold more fragrance oil than paraffin
3. Cleaner burning than paraffin with little to no soot when made and burned properly.
4. Does not require a repour to fill in sink holes like paraffin wax does.
5. Easy to clean up with soap and water
6. Burn twice as long as paraffin candles
7. Can be used for making a “whipped” topping decoration
8. Burns completely with no wax left on the sides of the jar if made properly.
9. Non-toxic
Cons
1. More expensive than paraffin wax
2. Can be tricky to work with
3. Tends to frost
4. Must add additives to make pillars or other candles poured in a mold
About the Ingredients
Soy Wax
We already covered the pros and cons of soy wax, but now I want to talk a little more about the wax itself since that is what you came here to learn about isn't it?
First of all, for your candle making, it is best to find your soy wax from a company that is as close to you as possible because the shipping will be outrageous if you are needing to order more than a pound. This is not the fault of the supplier, it's just that shipping rates for things more than 1lb are fairly expensive. And if you decide you want to make candles as a business, you will definitely need to order your wax by the bag (50lbs) or more, so you can imagine how much shipping will be for that much wax!
I was very fortunate to find a soy candle supply company just 45 min. south of me, so I would just go and pick up my order if the price of shipping was going to be more than the cost of gas.
While paraffin wax, beeswax and palm wax can be used for container candles and free standing candles such as votives, pillars and tapers, 100% soy wax is best for only container candles because it is a softer wax and does not release well from molds(like, really, it won't release! lol), and also would not hold up well standing on it's own, especially if your home gets very warm during the summer months. (This is something you should think about if you plan on shipping your candles during the summer.)
There are also other soy container blends that use natural vegetable oils, or more commonly soybean oil, to help the wax resist frosting and help with color retention, as well as making the wax a little bit harder. Golden Brands 464 is an example of a soy blend that is made to hold up well in warmer climates.
Natural additives are also added to soy wax to make a “votive blend” or “pillar blend” for use as votives and tarts or pillars. These additives are usually some sort of vegetable oils that help harden the wax and help it shrink away from the mold when it cools so that the votives, tarts, or pillars will come out easily.
Soy wax can also be mixed with paraffin wax (called a Parasoy blend), beeswax or palm wax for different uses, and to make a harder candle for votives and pillars. Beeswax and palm wax are expensive waxes, so mixing soy with them can give you at least a partial beeswax or palm candle while cutting some costs.
Some brands of soy wax may have a better hot fragrance throw than others, but I really think it mainly comes down to figuring out the right recipe for a specific brand of wax.
When I first started making soy candles, I thought that adding more fragrance would give me more hot throw (what you smell when the candle is burning). That is not always the case! You see, soy wax, or any kind of wax for that matter, has a certain fragrance load, or amount of oil that it can hold before it starts seeping out.
Wax and Fragrance Load
Wax is like a sponge. It will soak up a certain amount of fragrance oil, but once it is full, the oil will begin to seep out. We don't want this to happen, so the maximum fragrance oil load for most soy wax is usually around 10% per lb of wax (or 1.6 oz of fragrance oil for each 16oz of soy wax). If you use more than that, you might begin to see the oil seeping out from the top of the candle once the wax is cooled. This is a fire hazard since the flame could come directly in contact with the oil and of course we all know what happens when you put oil on a fire!
I recommend only using 6-7% fragrance oil load for your candles. If you are using high quality fragrance oils, then you should even be able to use less than that.
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Types of Soy Wax
I use 100% soy wax for my container candles, and the Votive/Pillar blend for my votives and tarts/melts. Both of those waxes are the American Soy Wax brand (Used to be
Enchanted Lites, but they went out of business and American Soy Organics took over their container waxes and created their own votive/pillar wax).
However, there are several brands of soy wax, and within each brand, usually several soy blends along with 100% soy. It can be difficult to decide which brand and type to use. I am in the process of doing some in depth testing of each wax.
For this book, however, I am just going to list the brands and types of soy wax so you can have a list in one place with links where you can do some research looking at reviews and places to buy them. A couple of these waxes link to the Amazon.com version, just so you can compare pricing. They are going to be more expensive on
Amazon per lb but they also have free shipping for Prime members, so depending on where you live, it might be worth it.
(And, just so you know, the Amazon.com links do link to my affiliate account, so if you do click through from one of my links and decide to buy from there, I will make a small comission.)
Calwax CB3- Made from 100% hydrogenated soy and vegetable oils. Single pour
Candle Science Wax on Amazon.com- This is actually just the Golden Brands 464 that they have on their website as well. It's a little expensive for a 2lb bag on Amazon, but if you have Amazon Prime, then it would qualify for free shipping, so it might be worth it depending where you live and if you are just wanting to test it out.
Cargill Naturewax C-1- This is actually a soy/palm blend. Description says it has great fragrance throw, and resistant to bloom or “frosting”. Also avoids wet spots by completely pulling away from the containers. This wax could also work for tarts and votives since it pulls away completely.
Cargill Naturewax C-3- 100% soy wax from Elevance. It is resistant to bloom or
“frosting” and wet spots and is supposed to give an excellent scent throw.
EcoSoya Container 135- This wax is made with 100% soybeans and botanical oils.
Excellent adhesion to containers without preheating, requires only one pour, has an excellent scent throw with both fragrances and essential oils and a creamy white appearance with some potential to bloom (white frosting) when using dyes. Gives smooth tops and ships well in all climates.
Ecosoya Advanced Containers- Made with pure soybeans and carefully selected botanical oils. Extreme resistance to bloom or “frosting”. Contracts slightly for a more even appearance. Smooth tops and consistent color retention.
Ecosoya PB Pillar Blend- Made from pure 100% soybeans and carefully selected botanical oils. Self releasing from molds. This wax is for Pillars, votives, tarts and any other molded candles. Very smooth appearance and I personally know it makes beautiful votives. Ships well in all climates.
Ecosoya Xcel- 100% soy and molecularly blueprinted to control polymorphism (the ability to appear in many forms. To understand how this applys to wax, read here). It has extreme resistance to bloom (white frosting) and “wet spots,” while producing an excellent scent throw when using fragrances. It is claimed to maintain an even burn pool with consistent color retention. I have tried this wax awhile ago and didn't like it. To be fair, I plan on testing it more thoroughly again, but I had issues with it cracking around the sides horribly when I tried it the first time.
American Soy Wax P100 Pillar/Votive/Tart blend This is a new pillar/votive blend soy wax and is even better than the former Enchanted Lites pillar wax. American
Soy Organics took over the Enchanted Lites wax line, but were not able to get the EL votive wax, so they developed their own. I have used this wax and it works very well and cools to a nice smooth finish and has good hot throw
100% Midwest Soy (formerly Enchanted Lites)- This is the wax I have used for my containers since I started several years ago. Excellent jar adhesion and hot and cold throw. It is 100% soy wax, nothing added or blended. Since it is 100% soy, it can have more issues with frosting. I've found I have a lot less trouble during the warmer months so room temperature plays a big part if you are doing everything else correctly.
Millenium Blend (formerly Enchanted Lites Millenium Blend)- A container wax that is a blend of soy and other natural ingredients (no paraffin) to resist frosting or bloom.
Long burning, good jar adhesion and color retention. This blend does give a nice smooth appearance and has a smoother appearance than some other soy waxes after it burns as well. It is a nice wax, but can have a little more trouble with “wet spots” (pulling away from the jar in some spots).
Golden Brands 416- A tart/votive soy wax that contains no additives and is natural and kosher.
Golden Brands 435- This is a soy/cotton blended wax that is also both natural and kosher. The cotton blend is supposed to help with an easier burn and reduce frosting.
Golden Brands 464- Lower melt point than the 444 wax for better glass adhesion and burn time. This is a blended soy wax using a soy-based additive and is both natural and kosher. This soy-based additive enables the soy to be poured at a hotter temperature reducing frosting and increasing FO load. This wax blends well with paraffin, slack wax, and microcrystalline waxes.
Golden Brands 444- Higher melt point than the 464 for higher fragrance load/stronger scent throw. This is a blended soy wax using a soy-based additive and is both natural and kosher. This soy-based additive enables the soy to be poured at a hotter temperature reducing frosting and increasing FO load. This wax blends well with paraffin, slack wax, and microcrystalline waxes.
Golden Brands 415- A pure soy wax that has a higher melt point than 402 allowing for a higher fragrance load for a stronger scent throw. I have tested this wax and I really like it. It cooled to a very nice smooth appearance with no frosting.
Golden Brands 402- A pure soy wax that has a lower melt point for better glass adhesion (less “wet” spots) and better burn.
KY Soy 115- 100% soybean wax for containers. Fragrance load up to 10% (they state that tops may require a repour)
KY Soy 125- All natural soybean/cottonseed blend. Fragrance load up to 10%
KY Puresoy- 100% soy wax with no additives. Fragrance load up to 12%. They also state that tops may require a repour.
Milliard Natural Soy Wax available on Amazon.com- I don't know what type of wax this is, it may be the same as one of the other brands listed, just with a different name, but I'm listing it here anyway since it is another choice even though it is more expensive than other waxes, but it has free shipping for Amazon Prime members. An all natural soy container wax with Soy based additives which help to reduce frosting & increase fragrance load. Fragrance load is 12%
Nature's Garden (NG) 100% Soy- This is simply the Golden Foods 415 (see description above)
Soy 120 by Candlewic- This is an all natural soy based wax. Fragrance load is 3% which seems extremely low. They do suggest adding Palm Stearic or beeswax to it, but it can be used alone.
Soy 125 by Candlewic- This is an all natural soy wax made with soy wax and soybean oil so that it has a higher fragrance load than the 120. Fragrance load is 5-6% . The addition of Palm Stearic or Beeswax is also suggested which will give a higher fragrance load.
Fragrance Oils
Fragrance is one of the most important ingredients of your scented soy candles. Without a good fragrance, you defeat the purpose of using scented candles, and your customers, if you are selling your candles, will of course be disappointed and not come back!
And even if you are only making them as a hobby and for gifts, don't you want to make the best smelling candles for yourself or friends and family?
There are so many places online that you can buy fragrance oils from, but how do I know if they are good?
Well, first of all, I like to look up any reviews about that companies oils and see how other people are doing using them in their soy candles. Now be sure to see if they work well in soy specifically because some oils work great in paraffin candles, but may not throw well in soy!
Some suppliers have a section for reviews below the particular wax description, so be sure to take a look for that. These reviews can also be very helpful if you are having trouble with your wax because many times people post about what worked for them if they were having some issues
You should also check to see if the supplier says anything about the oils being “uncut” or “highly concentrated”. It really can be hard to tell if a fragrance will throw well in soy unless it specifically states that it does or if you've heard others say that it does. This is because even though the supplier may not have “cut” the oils (diluting them) when they got them from the manufacturer, It is really difficult to know how the manufacturer makes the oils and how concentrated the finished product is.
There are companies like Candle Cocoon that have their oils specially made and boast a very high concentration.
Since I have used several of the Candle Cocoon oils, I know for a fact that they are very strong and I can usually use half the amount that I would with some of my other oils.
Also, keep in mind that certain fragrance oils are going to have a lighter scent than others. For example, Lilac is usually a very strong scent with a strong scent throw when burning (my mom has a hard time with my lilac candles because of how strong they are! I love them though :).
Coffee on the other hand, seems like it would be a stronger scent when you smell it out of the bottle, but I have had to add nearly the maximum amount of straight coffee fragrance oil in order to get a decent scent throw, and I've tried several black coffee oils from different companies. It just doesn't throw very strong. So it is best to order sample sizes of different oils from different companies and try them out in your candles.
Also, if you add too much fragrance oil, even if it isn't a full 10%, you may actually get a weaker hot throw. This is because too much oil can clog the wick and just not bind well with the wax. So before you decide to add more fragrance oil if you aren't getting a strong enough throw, maybe try adding a bit less first. (This is not a hard and fast rule.
Sometimes you do need to add more fragrance, but this is why you need to make sure to do some testing to see what works best!)
Some fragrance oils are heavier in weight than others. When you buy your oils, you are buying them by weight, not amount. So if you bought 2oz of Vanilla and 2oz of Melon scent, you will notice that the Melon fragrance oil probably fills the 2oz size bottle nearly to the top, where the Vanilla fragrance oil will be less full because Vanilla is a heavier oil and Melon is usually a pretty light weight oil.
This is why we weigh our fragrance oils into our wax by weight and also why some oils can be too much for the wick if you add too much oil. The Vanilla is heavier/thicker so it makes sense that adding more is going to have more of a chance of clogging the wick than if you were to add more of the Melon fragrance.
Hot scent throw is what every candle maker strives for. A candle can have an awesome cold throw, but then when you burn it for awhile it may do poorly with the hot throw.
This is why it's so important to buy the right fragrance oils. There's nothing worse than spending a bunch of money on candle fragrance oils and then finding out they do not have a good hot throw!
Like I said before, not all oils throw well in soy wax, so you need to make sure you buy fragrance oils that are made for soy wax and known to throw well in soy.
I am going to list oils from a few different suppliers that I know to give a good hot throw in soy candle wax. These are oils that I have used and recommend. I have by no means tried all the oils that these suppliers carry, so that'll be up to you if you want to try some other kinds.
Many candle making suppliers carry 1oz samples of their oils, so it is wise to start with that and do some testing of your candles before deciding on buying more in bulk.
And remember, just because a fragrance oil from one company throws awesome, that does not mean the same fragrance from a different company will do the same! Oils will vary from company to company (though some may use the same manufacturer, so might have some of the same fragrances).
When I was searching for a good coffee scent, I bought samples from 4 different places and none of them smelled the same. I thought that the coffee scent from
Candlesoylutions in the list below was the truest black coffee fragrance (I do use the max amount of that one since it is harder to get any coffee scent to throw strong)
But what about going down to the local craft store and buying fragrance oils there?
The problem with craft stores is that they don't really cater to candle makers. It's just not a huge market for them locally, so usually they are going to carry lower quality oils, or oils that really haven't been proven in soy wax. Not to mention the fact that they are only going to carry a small supply.
Buying from a reputable candle supply company is always best, since they usually are testing their fragrances before they sell them, and they are specifically made for candles or even soy in particular.
Scroll on to the next page to view the fragrance list..... Soy Candle Fragrance List Candle Soylutions
Almost Paradise Cucumber Melon Nutmeg
Apple Pie Evergreen Ocean
Apple Spice Frankincense Orange Spice
Apple Strudel Fresh Linen Pumpkin Pie
Birthday Cake Grape Raspberry
Black Coffee (light throw) Honeysuckle Strawberry
Buttered Rum Leather Sugar Cookie
Carrot Cake Lemon Sunflower
Cherry Almond Lemon Cheesecake Toasted Hazelnut
Chocolate Lemongrass Vanilla
Cinnamon Lilac White Cake
Cinnamon Spice Lilac Blossoms Wild Cherry
Clean Cotton Lime
Clove Love Spell
Clove Pomander Mistletoe
Candle Cocoon Brambleberry Natures Garden
Brewed Jasmine Apple Pie Fresh Cut Grass
Cranberry Compote Blueberry Leather Jacket
Crushed Strawberry and Espresso
Rhubarb Pumpkin Crunch
Melon,Fig and Apricot
Winter Woodlands Whisper
Daydream Believer
Dewdrop
Raspberry Cordial
Wicks
So next are the wicks. It really depends on what size and kind of container you will be using for your candles, so this is where it's up to you to test your candles and what wicks work best for your specific recipe!
I can only give you a starting point and tell you what worked best for me in my mason jar candles, votives and a few other containers.
This is what I'm going to do. I will just list the exact wicks I used for the specific jars that
I used, and that will at least give you a good idea of where to start testing. Also, a bit farther down, you will find a list of many different types of wicks and sizes. Keep in mind that the size of wicks you use will depend on the diameter of the jar, how deep the jar is, and your fragrance and dye.
As a rule with soy candles, for every inch in diameter of the container, that is how many hours it should take for the candle to burn all the way to the edge of the jar (or very close to it). So, for example, a jar that is 3” in diameter should melt to the edge of the jar in about 3 hours.
For deeper jars, like the 16 oz mason jars, you won't want it to burn all the way to the edge at first, because the farther down the jar the wick gets, the more heat is trapped and the hotter it will get inside the jar. So if you use a wick that is cool enough that it does not burn all the way to the edge at first, but leaves a bit of wax on the sides, then it will eventually melt all the wax on the sides as it makes it's way down the jar from the trapped heat.
Otherwise, if you start out with too hot of a wick, the jar will get way too hot as it makes it's way down toward the bottom and could cause the glass to crack, but it also makes it too hot to touch without burning yourself.
Heavier fragrances may need a hotter wick to burn them, while lighter fragrances may need a cooler wick. I never had much variation with wicks, though, when it came to different fragrances of my candles, so I pretty much
used the same wick no matter what the fragrance, with no problems, but it's something to keep in mind in case you have a fragrance that doesn't seem to be getting a good melt pool. It might be that you need to wick up (use a hotter wick) for that particular fragrance.
Here are some wick sizes to start you out. You should buy some a bit smaller and some a bit larger also to test with for each size.
4oz jelly jars : CD 12 or HTP 104
8oz square Mason Jars: CD 16 or 18 , Eco 14, or HTP 105
16oz square Mason Jars: CD 16, Eco 14, or HTP 104 or 105
Votives: GW-28 or P-22
I used to use the HTP wicks which seemed to work best out of all the other wicks I had tried, but still could not keep them from mushrooming in my container candles, and I knew there had to be a wick out there that didn't mushroom much. Then I found the CD wicks! I fell in love. So I really suggest you start with the CD wicks and see how they work for you. Bitter Creek Candle Supply has a pack where you get 5 of each of all 12 sizes for $9.00.
Now Test, Test, Test!
Climate and elevation can also affect how your candles burn, so what works for me here in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, may not work for you.
So you must test!
Wick Types and Sizes
There are so many types and sizes of wicks out there, that it can be kind of daunting when you think about testing your soy candles for the right wick. But in this section I am going to list the types and sizes of wicks to use with soy wax. . Now just because a certain wick worked well for me doesn't necessarily mean that it will be perfect for your candles.
As I said before, there are many factors that can affect the size of wick you will need, such as:
Size of container
Type of soy wax
Fragrance oil. Some oils are heavier than others and also the amount of oil you
use can affect the size of wick you will need.
Amount of dye
Elevation. Higher elevations have less oxygen, so you may need a larger wick to
get a hot enough flame to get a good melt pool. Climate. In cold weather, soy wax is harder, so of course will take a little more
heat to melt. My candles get their melt pool much faster in the summer when my
house is warm than in the winter. This can be a problem though, since I noticed
that my candles sometimes burn too hot in the summer. If you and your
customers keep your homes cool in the summer months though, this shouldn't be
a problem. I also suggest testing your candles in a comfortable room temperature
so you can get the best results. It would be better to have to burn the candle
longer in colder weather in order to get a good melt pool rather than have it burn
great in winter and too hot in summer! Humidity could also affect the way your
candles burn.
Types of wicks to use with soy candles
Keep in mind that as the wick size goes up, each wick burns a bit hotter than the one before it. The diameter range given is just a starting point for your testing. So for example, the HTP-31 shows the same diameter suggestion as HTP-41, but HTP-41 burns a bit hotter than the 31. So if HTP-31 does not burn hot enough in your candles (doesn't burn all the way to the edge, or gives a shallow melt pool, tunnels, etc.... ) after burning for a couple hours then you would want to try the next size up, which would be the HTP-
41, or maybe even the HTP-52.
All of these wicks already have the metal tab crimped on the bottom of the wick which makes it much easier to just use a wick sticker or hot glue to secure the wick inside the container.
The wick tabs are important to have because it gives you something to attach the wick to the container bottom, but more importantly it keeps the flame from burning all the way to the bottom of the jar. While you do want the wax on the edge of the jar to melt completely, you don't want the flame melting the wax clear to the bottom. There is always a warning on the warning labels of any candle you buy in the stores that says you should extinguish your candle when there is aproximately ½ inch of wax left. If it were to burn all the way, it would cause the bottom of the container to get extremely hot on the surface it is sitting on which could make burn marks, or start a fire!
You usually do not want to buy spooled wick since that will create way too much work for you to put the metal tabs on yourself! I bought a bag of wick tabs one time, thinking
I would use some of the cut off from my wicks so I wouldn't just throw them away. I tried putting a tab on and I just could not get it to crimp onto the wick very well. I guess you need some really good pliers and strong hands or something.
Anyway, it's much easier to just buy the pre-tabbed wicks, especially if you are planning on starting a candle business. There is just too many other things to concern yourself with than trying to sit there and put wick tabs on!
Zinc Core Wicks
I haven't tried zinc core wicks. I've read mixed things about them in soy wax. A few have said they were the only wick that worked for them, and others have said they “fizzled out” after awhile. Also, in general, zinc core wicks are not recommended for soy, but it's up to you if you want to try them.
Here is a description from Peak Candle Supply “zinc core wicks have a rigid zinc core that keeps them straight while in melted wax. Zinc core wicks are very popular and very easy to use. Zinc core wicks tend to "mushroom" more than other wicks do, but proper wick size and trimming can reduce the mushroom. Zinc core wicks are recommended for use in paraffin waxes and gel wax. “
Swan's Candles says “Metal-core wicks are sometimes used in container candles and votives to keep the wick upright when the surrounding wax liquefies during burning.
Today's metal-core wicks are made with either zinc or tin. Scientific studies have repeatedly shown both zinc- and tin-core wicks to be safe and non-toxic.”
LoneStar Candle Supply says “These are the most commonly used wick type for many types of candles. They may be used for votives, pillars, and in gel candles. The wire core in the wick helps the wick to remain standing straight while the candle is being poured and when the candle is lit. They have been widely used since the use of lead core wicks was discontinued long ago.”
CandleandSupplies.net says “The standard wick used for all types of container candles. Works with most waxes (except soy, crystal or palm wax).”
44-24-18 2.5”( wick length) Tealight/Floater wick w/ container wax
44-24-18 6”(wick length) Votives & 1" to 2 1/2" containers
51-32-18 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" containers
60-44-18 3" to 4" containers
62-52-18 4" & larger containers
Paper Core
Paper core wicks tend to burn hotter than other wicks, and they also tend to mushroom more.
LoneStar Candle Supply says “Paper core wicks burn very hot, which yields a large melt pool. Usually used only in large containers.”
BitterCreek Candle Supply says “Paper core burns the hottest and is good for waxes that require heavy duty wicks to achieve a good melt pool.”
34-24 Votives & 1" to 2" containers
44-24-18 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" containers
51-32-18 3" to 4" containers
60-44-18 4" or larger containers
62-52-18 4" or larger containers - use when hotter wick is needed to achieve complete melt pool
RRD Wicks
I have tried a couple of these but they mushroomed too much for me. Don't discount them though as they just might work for your formula.
Peak Candle Supplies says “RRD wicks are recommended for viscous waxes such as palm, soy and veggie waxes as well as single pour waxes. Use for pillars or containers.
• A unique round cotton braided wick that gives a slight curl when burning.
• Exhibits self-trimming burn characteristics.
• Primed with high melt wax (212F), which aids in keeping them straight in the molten wax.”
Wicks Unlimited says “ This is a round wick with a uniquely braided cotton core designed with tension threads that give the wick a slight, but effective, curl during combustion. The wick is directional in that capillary action flows more freely in one direction. Due to their intricate design, the RRD series provides a centered burn pool, self-trimming burn characteristics and a consistently high rate of fuel flow.
These wicks work well with viscous fuels such as vegetable wax, gels and one pours.
They are effective in containers and especially useful in pillars due to their concentric burn pools.”
RRD 29 Small Candles, approx. 2 - 2.25" RRD 34 Small Containers, approx. 2.25 - 2.5"
RRD 37 Medium Containers, approx. 2.5 - 3"
RRD 40 Medium Containers, approx. 3 - 3.25"
RRD 47 Large Containers, approx. 3.5"
RRD 50 Large Containers, approx. 3.75"
RRD 55 Large Containers, approx. 4 - 4.5"
CD Wicks
I love these wicks. They mushroom very little when you get the right size wick in your candles. Pretty much self trimming too. I spent a lot of time testing with the HTP wicks and a few other wicks, but when I finally found these, I fell in love!
LoneStarCandleSupply says “The CD series of wicks is a favorite among many seasoned candlemakers. These wicks are flat braided with a special paper filament woven around them. This configuration is engineered to promote maximum and consistent burn while insuring a wick trimming flame posture. The CD series is used in many applications and is especially compatible with the harder-to-melt viscous waxes of both paraffin and vegetable base. Each wick has been cut to the specified length, primed with a high melt point wax (212°F) and has been crimped with a 20mm diameter x
10mm tall tab (except CD-22 which has a 20mm diameter x 6mm tab.)”
Natures Garden Candles says “Coreless German CD wicking is a flat braided wicking that allows for a cleaner burn, and are almost self- trimming.”
CD-4 Votives & Small Containers ( 1.25" - 1.75" )
CD-5 Votives & Small Containers ( 1.75" - 2.0" )
CD-6 Votives, Pillars & Small Containers ( 2.0" - 2.25" )
CD-7 Pillars & Small Containers ( 2.25" - 2.5" )
CD-8 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 2.5" - 3.0" )
CD-10 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 3.0" - 3.25" )
CD-12 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 3.25" - 3.5" )
CD-14 Pillars & Large Containers ( 3.5" - 3.75" )
CD-16 Pillars & Large Containers ( 3.75" - 4.0" ) These can also work in the 8 and 16oz jars
CD-18 Pillars & Large Containers ( 4.0" - 4.25" ) I use these now in my 8 oz mason jars though may get too much of a melt pool in warmer weather, so then the 16 would be recommened.
CD-20 Pillars & Large Containers ( 4.25" - 4.5" )
CD-22 Pillars & Large Containers ( 4.5" - 4.75" )
Eco Wicks
These wicks are primed with vegetable wax, so if you are wanting to make All Natural candles, these would be a good wick to use. I have tested the Eco 14 wick in my 8oz mason jars and it works wonderfully. Hardly any mushrooming and is a good size wick for that size jar.. I also accidentally used the Eco 12 in one of my 8oz jars and it still burned well and got a decent melt pool. LOVE these wicks.
Lone Star Candle Supply says “This series is designed specifically for natural waxes.
The ECO series is a flat, coreless cotton wick braided with thin paper filaments interwoven for burn stability. This braiding technique also greatly improves rigidity compared to standard cotton and paper cored wicks. The specially treated paper threads provide a controlled curling of the wick making the ECO series self-trimming, which results in minimized mushrooming, soot and smoke. They have been designed to significantly reduce the "afterglow" and smoke often seen in paper cored wicks. An important difference to note is that these wicks have been primed with vegetable wax rather than paraffin wax, enabling you to market your candles as all natural candles!”
Candlescience.com says “ECO wick is a specialty flat cotton wick with thin interwoven paper threads. The treated paper threads combined with a advanced braiding technique give the ECO series superior stability without the need for a core.
This combination enhances the self-trimming effect and reduces mushrooming, soot and smoke. ECO wicks work very well in natural waxes and blends as well as low melt point paraffin waxes.“
ECO-1 Votives & Small Containers ( 1.25" - 1.5" ) ECO-2 Votives & Small Containers ( 1.5" - 2.0" )
ECO-4 Votives, Pillars & Small Containers ( 2.0" - 2.5" )
ECO-6 Pillars & Small Containers ( 2.5" - 2.75" )
ECO-8 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 2.75" - 3.0" )
ECO-10 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 3.0" - 3.25" )
ECO-12 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 3.25" - 3.5" ) Works well in my 8oz Mason
Jars.
ECO-14 Pillars & Large Containers ( 3.5" - 3.75" ) Also works well in my 8oz square
Mason jars.
HTP
I have tested a few HTP wicks and actually started out using them for quite awhile when
I was selling my candles. These still tend to mushroom too much for my taste which is why I switched to the CD wicks.
So on some sites it says the HTP wicks are a 100% cotton braid, but on other sites it says they are made with paper fibers in them. I found more sites that said they are made with paper fibers, so I tend to believe that that is actually the case. See what a couple supply sites have to say about HTP wicks below.....
PeakCandleSupply says “HTP wicks are designed to facilitate complete combustion and minimize carbon build-up. Utilizing a special 100% cotton braid, they are particularly well suited for applications involving more viscous waxes, such as single- pour waxes. These wicks are primed with high melt wax (212 F) and have a round tin base (20 mm in most cases) attached that helps keep the entire wick assembly standing upright and prevents it from flopping over as the candle burns towards the bottom.”
Candlescience.com says “ The HTP series takes the burn and self trimming advantages of a flat cotton wick and adds interwoven paper fibers to increase rigidity.
The result is a great all around wick with the structural strength of a paper core wick but the performance of a flat wick. Works well in paraffin, gel, and vegetable waxes. ”
HTP-31 Votives & Small Containers ( 1.5" - 2.0" )
HTP-41 Votives, Small Containers ( 1 ½” – 2” diameter )
HTP-52 Votives, Small Containers ( 1 ½” – 2” diameter )
HTP-62 Medium Containers ( 2" - 3" diameter )
HTP-73 Medium Containers ( 2” – 3” diameter )
HTP-83 Medium Containers ( 2 1/2” – 3 1/2” diameter )
HTP-93 Medium Containers ( 2 1/2” – 3 1/2” diameter)
HTP-104 Medium Containers ( 2 1/2”– 3 1/2” diameter ) I used this size for my 4oz jars.
HTP-105 Large Containers ( 3” – 4” diameter )I used this size for my 8 and 16oz mason jars
HTP-126 Large Containers ( 3” – 4” diameter)
HTP-1212 Large Containers ( 3” – 4” diameter )
HTP-1312 Large Containers ( 3” – 4” diameter) LX
Peak Candle Supplies says “LX wicks have a unique flat braid that minimizes carbon buildup.
A coreless wick to reduce carbon buildup.
Manufactured with stabilizing threads which make for a more consistent burn
and reduces carbon buildup.
Primed with high melt wax (212F), which aids in keeping them straight in the
molten wax”
Lone Star Candle Supply says “Flat braided cotton wicks, chemically treated with a high melt point wax (212°F). These wicks are designed to reduce "mushrooming" (build up of carbon at the tip of the wick), reduce smoke and soot, and when used properly these wicks are virtually self-trimming. Can be used in virtually any application.”
Candlescience.com says “LX wick is a specially braided flat wick which maintains a slight curl when burning. The curl moves the tip of the wick into the hottest part of the flame, which helps to minimize or eliminate carbon buildup (mushrooming), reduce smoking, and provide a 'self-trimming' effect, which creates a very stable and consistent flame.”
LX-8 Votives & Small Containers ( 1.25" - 1.5" )
LX-10 Votives & Small Containers ( 1.5" - 2.0" )
LX-12 Votives, Pillars & Small Containers ( 2.0" - 2.25" ) LX-14 Pillars & Small Containers ( 2.25" - 2.5" )
LX-16 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 2.5" - 3.0" )
LX-18 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 3.0" - 3.25" )
LX-20 Pillars & Medium Containers ( 3.25" - 3.5" )
LX-21 Pillars & Large Containers ( 3.5" - 3.75" )
LX-22 Pillars & Large Containers ( 3.75" - 4.0" )
LX-24 Pillars & Large Containers ( 4.0" - 4.25" )
LX-26 Pillars & Large Containers ( 4.25" - 4.5" )
LX-28 Pillars & Large Containers ( 4.5" - 4.75" )
LX-30 Pillars & Large Containers ( 4.75" - 5.0" )
Wooden wicks
I have done some testing with wooden wicks, and I have to say, I really, really like them! I bought some medium and large wood wicks from Natures
Garden Candle and Soap Supplies and have tested both in my 8oz mason jars. I love that they give off a light burning wood smell when you first light them.
You don't have to trim them before each burn, but I found that they did tend to burn more nicely when I did trim them. And, when you blow it out it isn't near as smokey as a regular wick candle.
When I tested the medium wick, I could hear a faint “crackle” while it burned, which is one reason why people enjoy wood wick candles.
Wood Candle Wick.com says their wicks are “grown and manufactured in the
USA.” and “Our wooden wick has a fast burn pool formation for excellent hot throw.
Wooden wick allows for quick and easy lighting. No smoking during burn cycle (When wooden wick sized properly.) Little to no afterglow. Wooden candle wick for use in all fuels; Paraffin, Soy, Mottling, Palm, Gel”
Lone Star Candle Supply says “Wooden wicks are relatively new to the candle making industry. Generally, there are two types of wooden wicks - hard wood wicks and soft wood wicks. You may have seen hard wood wicks available but they don't even compare to the superiority of the soft wood wicks. Our soft wood wicks offer the unique sounds of a wood burning fire as they crackle and pop while they burn.…...Wooden wicks are for use in containers, and should not be used in pillars or votives. Wooden wicks can be used in paraffin or soy. When using our wooden wicks in pure soy, we recommend using the large or extra large wick. This is to make sure the melt pool is wide enough since pure soy wax tends to hold in the heat, as well as fragrance.”
Small Small Containers ( Up to 3" )
Medium Medium Containers ( 3" - 3.75" ) Large Medium & Large Containers ( 3.5" - 4.25" ) The large wick I bought from
Natures Garden was just right for my 8oz square mason jars.
Extra Large Large Containers (4" – 4.75")
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