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History of Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods: 157 References in Chronological Order

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History of Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods: 157 References in Chronological Order UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 1 HISTORY OF UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS (379 AD to 2012): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK Including: Soybean Wine, Cantonese Wine Starter, Soy Ogi, Soy Dhokla, Soy Dosa / Dosai, Soy Idli. Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2012 Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 2 Copyright (c) 2012 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected] ISBN 9781928914495 (Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods without hyphens) ISBN 978-1-928914-49-5 (Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods with hyphens) Printed 21 Oct. 2012 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: History of soy ogi History of soy dhokla History of soy dosa History of soy dosai History of soy idli Bibliography of soy ogi Bibliography of soy dhokla Bibliography of soy dosa Bibliography of soy dosai Bibliography of soy idli Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 Abbreviations Used in This Book .................................................................................................................................. 7 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! ...................................................................................... 8 Full-Page Graphics ....................................................................................................................................................... 10 History of Uncommon Fermented Soyfoods: 157 References in Chronological Order .......................................... 11 Contains 11 Photographs and Illustrations Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ..................................................................................................... 72 Last Page of Index ......................................................................................................................................................... 93 Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 4 DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. This book is dedicated to I.A. Akinrele of Nigeria, Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library Keith H. Steinkraus of Cornell University, New York, (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. and C.V. Ramakrishnan of India - pioneers in this fi eld. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting collecting the documents, building the library, and producing people from around the world who share a common interest, the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle help to our research over the years, several stand out: Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu, Brooke Vittimberga. Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Maryland. And to Lorenz K. Schaller of Ojai, California. Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special For outstanding help on this Uncommon Fermented help on Slavic-language documents. Soyfoods book we thank: Wayne Dawson on Tucson, Arizona, Robert W. Nave of India and Minnesota, Sumbo National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Abiose of Nigeria, and Sidi M. Osho of Nigeria. Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web Tanner Wray. would not have been possible. Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry history of this subject. Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center UNCOMMON FERMENTED SOYFOODS 5 INTRODUCTION Brief chronology / timeline of uncommon fermented the protein effi ciency ratio or PER) increased threefold. His soyfoods. innovation opened up a new world of research on using soy to fortify traditional fermented foods in developing countries. 346-379 A.D. – In Shijiu [Record of Fermented Black Soybean Wine], the author, Wang Hsi-chih says: When I 1967 June – Keith H. Steinkraus of Cornell University was young I drank fermented black soybean wine (shijiu). It publishes the fi rst research on the use of soybeans to fortify was very good. the traditional Indian fermented food named idli in order to increase its protein quality and quantity. 530 A.D. – In Shijing [Food Canon (#1)], the section titled “How to make soybean (dadou) thousand year bitter wine” 1970 – Akinrele coins the term “soy-ogi” and in 1975 Edem (kujiu) (preserved in Chapter 71, titled “Vinegar” in Qimin shortens it to “soyogi.” Yaoshu) describes the process. 1973 Nov. – In Ceylon (today’s Sri Lanka), the Ceylon Meals 544 A.D. – In Qimin Yaoshu, by Jia Sixie, Chapter 71 for Millions Foundation publishes a booklet titled All About preserves the text of the Shijing (cited above), which had the Soy Bean. The section on “Soya bean recipes” notes: been lost by this time. “A new trend in the preparation of ‘Thosai.’ Soya bean as a substitute for black gram in preparing delicious ‘Thosai’” 1596 – Bencao Gangmu [The great pharmacopoeia], by Li [Dosai]. Shizen refers to a type of soy wine named (tou-lin chiu) (“bean soak wine”). 1975 July – In a publication by USDA’s Northern Regional Research Center (Peoria, Illinois), the term “soy idli” is fi rst 1878 Feb. – In the Bulletin de la Societe d’Acclimatation used, and in 1976 Ramakrishnan et al. in India shorten this to (France), an article titled Sur les vins et eaux-de-vie “soyidli.” fabriqués en Chine [On the wines and brandies made in China], P. Dabry de Thiersant mentions Cantonese wine 1979 – In a research project in India funded by the U.S. P.L. starter (kiu-tsee or kiu-tsu) which may well be the French 480 (Food for Peace) Program, C.V. Ramakrishnan of Baroda transcription of jiuzi. Rice and soybeans are the two main publishes the fi rst research on the use of soybeans to fortify ingredients used in Canton to make the wine. the traditional Indian fermented food named dosa in order to In 1888 Ch. Lecerf in France is the fi rst to write Kiu-tsée increase its protein quality and quantity. with an acute accent to refer to this solid Cantonese wine ferment. 1979 – In an article in the Baroda Journal of Nutrition titled “Studies in Indian fermented foods,” C.V. Ramakrishnan 1911 – In the book Chinese Materia Medica: Vegetable discusses dhokla, a traditional Indian fermented food, Kingdom, by George A. Stuart (published in Shanghai, fortifi ed with soybeans in order to increase its protein quality China) is a section titled “Bean ferment.” The Chinese and quantity. characters tou-huang [dou-huang] (which are given) mean “bean + yellow.” This “Bean ferment” “is the fermentation 1986 Nov. 22-23 – National seminar on Soybean Processing pellicle (Mycoderma) which forms on the top of fermenting and Utilization in India is held in Bhopal. India, sponsored beans, as the mother-of-vinegar forms on the top of vinegar by the Central Institute of Agricultural Engineering (CIAE). in its process of preparation.” Many of the papers are about fortifi cation of tradition Indian In 1918 Shih Chi
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