Photo Tor Harry Bjørn



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The outdoor life as a brand and identity

The municipality of Hammerfest has to take care of its natural wonders and an abundance of natural treasures attractions, to make them accessible and riches that have enraptured and and to draw them to the attention of delighted countless generations, both the local population and visitors. playing a vital role in the identity and We have adopted a proactive, long- quality of life of many people. term philosophy designed to show Many people in Hammerfest (and on that outdoor life is an important policy Sørøya) say that its beautiful and through tangible action. varied natural environment is one of Lift your gaze and be enchanted by the reasons why they have decided to the myriad contrasts and natural settle down here rather than splendours that the municipality of anywhere else. The municipality seeks Hammerfest has to offer. Alf E. Jakobsen Mayor

Storm on the outer coast. Little Kamøya in the background. Photo Fredrik Neregård Th e jo yofliving! Sørøya 4 Northern Sørøya 6 What is it about northern Sørøya have our roots in the various places Climate and geology 7 which encourages so many people to on northern Sørøya. Being there Tarhalsen 8 travel there? Is it because we simply enables us to teach the next gene - Fyrvokterveien (the Light- love activities such as hunting, ration how to look after and manage house Keeper’s Path) 10 fishing, walks in the mountains and our natural resources. Budgets do not Kjøttvikvarden along the beach, picking berries, include other things either, like the (the Kjøttvik Beacon) 12 fishing in the fjord, taking out a value to be derived from 10 –12-year- Bondøya 15 rowing boat with the kids, BBQs olds making blueberry squash or fish Legendary Bondøya 16 with friends, swimming in the sea, cakes from haddock they have caught Little Kamøya 18 weddings and birthdays, activity on their own, mooring up a small Great Kamøya 20 days and social meeting places? The boat, assessing the weather and their Flora and fauna 22 answer to this question is a definite clothing, lighting a bonfire, handling Reindeer 24 YES, in large, red, flashing capitals. a fishing line and gutting fish, etc. Evidence of ancient times 24 The joy of living and having fun This all constitutes knowledge about Mefjord 25 cannot be measured in terms of our coastal culture which is important Mt. Sandfjellet 28 money and consequently they do not in its own right and which will in turn Akkarfjord 30 appear in any budgets, but serve as will help to encourage these young Gamvik Gjestegård an important dynamic for increasing people to return home once they have (Gamvik Guest Farm) 33 the population in the municipality. completed their education. Finvik and Storsand 34 Some of us are fortunate enough to Innovative mountain tourism 36 Ingrid Petrikke Olsen Sources 38 A resident of Hellefjord Important addresses 39

Idea and Project Manager: Tom Eirik Ness, Environmental Protection Consultant © The municipality of Hammerfest 2013 Design and production: Grafika AS, +47 468 11 000 Sørøya (South Island ) – the green island of the north

Sørøya! Have you been there? Have you tried change right in front of your eyes? Have you been standing in the middle of this harsh, fascinating enchanted by the magical light of the midnight natural environment, overwhelmed by your sun? Have you ever experienced being some - impressions. Have you smelt the sea which where where no-one else has been before you? surrounds everything and is the only right way No queues of tourists, only walkers like yourself for getting there and back? Have you explored the who are seeking to experience something really unique coastal landscape in the island’s special. Sørøya has all of these things, and more. unpredictable weather? Have you seen the light

Kjøttvika. Photo Steingrim Fauske

^ Nordkapp

Skarsvåg Fruholmen fyr Ingøy Hjelmsøya Gjesvær Mehamn E69 Kamøyvær Måsøy Tu+ord Gamvik K o b Rolvsøy S Havøysund b Honningsvåg Kjølle+ord n e ø & Bondøya det . Lille Kamøy Rolvsøysun & o Nordmannset r Store Kamøy d S Nordre Sørøya e a n Ivars*ord n D d n ø ø Akkar*ord n y R e n & e d v r e . sb n o s& ot ge . n an & ors a Langstrand e P n Store ill a L T S Hammerfest Sørvær t t Tamsøya e r Veidnes d a n d u r u Kvaløya E69 n Breivikbotn s m o y e ø & r e g e Bekkar+ord ø n n Smør+ord s S Kårhamn a 94 k Re r&. s p Smø r a pa o L Kvalsund r& P Lopphavet Hasvik . Older&. R Seiland Austertana o t Vestertana g e Skaidi Smal+ord Mevær n d Lakse+ordbotn - n S Store u Sildra tj s Fugløya e Stjernøya g rn Kval*ord r s a Kunes d un s V Borselv Nord- n d u u et n Grøtøya Kvaløya s Andsnes Sandland d y e t Tana lø Vanna g Årvik Øks+ord Reinøya u Bergs*ord Helgøya F Rebbenes- Arnøya Kanis Loppa A E6 E175

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t øya a E6 Vannvåg Laukøya & Varangerbotn K o

Akkarvik v r æ E6 d n e E6 a n Skars*ord Skjervøy n g Talvik Hansnes e Alteidet Ringvassøy Kågen n Rafsbotn Grøt*ord Straumen Lakselv Øks*ordhamn Bur*ord Alta ndet n røtsu e E6 Bossekop G d Uløya r o Porsangmoen & Sør-Lekangen Sørstraumen Northern Sørøya, Great s l l Tromsø U Iddonjargga Storslett Kamøya, Little Kamøya Kval- and Bondøya øya Koppangen E L ørøya lies just wheOre the coast of of access here and even today the island he ocean on the outer side of Sørøya SFinnmark startL s to curve towards the only has a modest road network. TK(the Barents Sea) contains huge east, just to the west of Hammerfest – far You will arrive here either by express natural resources both above and below away from the mainland where the ocean boat from Hammerfest or on a ferry from the surface of the sea. It is home to some holds sway, at a latitude of 70 degrees Øksfjord (in the municipality of Loppa). of the world’s most extensive fish stocks, and 40 minutes north. Sørøya, which Tourists and visitors have no trouble unique protected coral reefs (cold-water covers an area of 812 km², is the largest finding their way to Sørøya, despite its corals), seaweed forests, large numbers island in the county of Finnmark and location. There are many reasons for of seals, large colonies of sea birds and Norway’s fourth largest island, and is wanting to travel here: the famous caves the Goliath and Snow White oil fields. divided between the municipalities of where people spent the winter during the On days when the weather is good you Hammerfest and Hasvik. Sørøya is called War, the rock carvings and the remains can see the spouts of the large whales the «green island of the north» because it of old dwellings in Slettnes, the long which graze out here in «the blue fields». is intensely green during the summer. The beaches, Mt. Sandfjellet in Gamvika, Mackerel and king crab are new species few roads on the island run through a the rare species of rock and crystals that have migrated here during the last magnificent landscape. If you decide to (ame thyst, gabbro, sodalite), the sea decade. The extensive shallow waters take off on foot, you will find some excel - fishing milieu in Sørvær, the Kjøttvik on the outer side of Sørøya are important lent fishing lakes, small idyllic spots, Beacon, the Lighthouse Keeper’s Path, fishing grounds where large quantities «lagoons» with white beaches composed the large colonies of seals and sea birds, of Barents Sea cod and other species of of shell fragments and coral sand. Over the magnificent coastal landscape, etc., fish are caught each year. the ages boats have been the only means etc.

_ Northern Sørøya – the green island of the north. Northern Photo Ivar Greiner Sørøya – an area with fantastic landscape features

orthern Sørøya with Akkarfjord, This is a large, extremely varied area, N Storsanden, Sandfjellet, Gamvik, constituting a geographical unit which Staurfjellet, Mefjorden, Kjøttvika, Vassvik - is different to the rest of Sørøya in respect næringen, Kjøttvikvarden and Tarhalsen of its topography and natural landscape. has been described by many people as being the jewel of the coastal landscape in the municipality of Hammerfest. It is an Climate and geology – area with fantastic landscape features cool and mildly oceanic and a rich abundance of flora and fauna, The climate on Sørøya is cool and cultural monuments and geological mildly oceanic. The mean tempera - attractions. The few roads in this area run ture for July is 11.3oC, while the mean through a magnificent landscape. If you temperature during the cold winter decide to take off on foot, you will find months is 5.3oC. Normal annual rain - some small idyllic spots, white beaches fall amounts to 735 mm. Sørøya is composed of shell fragments and coral rich in minerals and has many rare sand, a whole mountain of sand (Mt. types of rock and crystals such as Sandfjellet), colonies of sea birds, cultu - amethyst, gabbro and sodalite, etc. ral monuments and rare plants, etc.

` North Look North more often Go against the wind. Go against the wind, Climb mountains. you’ll get ruddy cheeks. Look North. Find the rough path. Keep to it. More often It’s shorter. This land is long. North is best. Most is north. Winter’s flaming sky, Summer night’s miracle. Rolf Jakobsen

a Tarhalsen Lighthouse, the most northerly point on Sørøya. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn Tarhalsen arhalsen! Visitors will initially Tbe struck by the splendid natural environment, the precipitous coastal landscape and the contrasts created by the fusion of sea and mountains. Tarhalsen is the last out - post on Sørøya (municipality of Hammer fest). It is the place to be for anyone who loves views, the wild open sea and the contrasts created by the fusion of sea and mountains. It is where the vast ocean holds sway, making you feel small in comparison to your surroundings. Tarhalsen is the kingdom of sea birds, with large colonies of herring gulls and great black-backed gulls nesting near the lighthouse during the summer. Tarhalsen consists of old, heavily eroded bedrock. The terrain is steep and undulating and the only way to reach it is by ascending the Ligh - thouse Keeper’s Path which starts on Mt. Høgfjellet (290 metres above sea level) near Tarhalsen.

b – for people who love views and the wide open sea

c View from the Lighthouse Keeper’s Path, with the islands of Great and Little Kamøy in the background and the island of Bondøya right at the back. Photo Tom Eirik Ness

Fyrvokterveien (the Lighthouse Keeper’s Path) – a spectacular footpath along the edge of the Barents Sea

The municipality of Hammerfest Keeper’s path at Tarhalsen. The aim of the Barents Sea, and the project has subse - embarked on a project in conjunction project was to facilitate outdoor pursuits quently opened up the area for the local with Hammerfest Industriservice AS and and create an infrastructure for adventure population and tourists. Increasing num - the Troms and Finnmark Coastal Adminis - tourism. This has resulted in a specta - bers of people are finding their way here. tration to restore the old Lighthouse cular path running along the edge of the The Tarhalsen Fishermen’s Association

[Z Approx. 150 metres of «spaghetti railings». Photo Tom Eirik Ness

was commissioned by the Ligh thouse approx. 3 km long. It starts on Mt. Høg - Tarhals Isthmus). The cabin is open for Director in 1932-33 to build the Light - fjellet (290 metres above sea level) near general use and is well equipped with a house Keeper’s Path. The aim was to Tarhalsen and runs out to the lighthouse wood-burning stove, three bunks, a table build a safe, year-round path for the light - at the tip of Tarhalsen. and benches. It is approx. 9 km (as the house keeper who looked after the Today the «new» Lighthouse Keeper’s crow flies) from Akkarfjord to the Tarhalsen Lighthouse. Path has new railings (approx. 3 km), Tarhalsen Lighthouse. The first beacon was lit at Tarhalsen five flights of steps and a tourist cabin in 1933. The Lighthouse Keeper’s Path is (the Tarhalsen Cabin) at Tarhalseidet (the

[[ Kjøttvikvarde n (the Kj – a monument to our ancient coastal culture

he oldest structure in the municipality pioneers, Ole Gammelsen Mork. This increase the municipality’s focus on out - Tof Hammerfest – the Kjøttvik Beacon work of art is a 12.5-metre high stone door activities. soars high in the sky on the top of the structure and is the tallest stone beacon From the Kjøttvik Beacon you gain the 319-metre high Mt. Kjøttvikfjellet at the in Norway. Its size, shape and location full benefits of the views across the northernmost point of Sørøya. This land - are unique in Norway and possibly also Barents Sea, the neighbouring islands of mark – or «navigation marker» as it was the world. Rolvsøya and Ingøya in the municipality originally called – was erected in 1853 in Its remarkable location ensures that it of Måsøy, and the islands of Skips - response to orders issued by the «Royal is highly visible to ships from a long way holmen, Revsholmen, Little Kamøya, Norwegian Government’s Marine Min - off. The Kjøttvik Beacon has stood un - Great Kamøya and Bondøya in the istry» by a working party from Volda in attended and unmaintained for over 150 municipality of Hammerfest. Sunnmøre under the management of one years. The Beacon is protected under the of the Norwegian Lighthouse Authority’s Norwegian Coastal Administration’s he Kjøttvik Beacon was completed on National Conservation Plans for Maritime T13 September 1853. It was – and still is Infrastructures. – unique in respect of its shape, size and Each year, on the first Sunday in location, in both a Norwegian and an August, the municipality of Hammerfest international context. It has been built and the Akkafjord Regional Society organ - using stones from Mt. Kjøttvikfjellet. ise a walk to the Kjøttvik Beacon. This The Kjøttvik Beacon can be seen from event is very popular and has helped to approx. 40 km away out at sea.

View from Mt. Kjøttvikfjellet, near the Kjøttvik Beacon. Staurneset (the Staur Headland) in the background. Photo Tom E. Ness

[\ Kjøttvikvarden (the Kjøttvik Beacon) is a monument to our ancient coastal culture. Kjøttvik Beacon) Photo Tor Harry Bjørn

[] White-tailed eagle. Photo T.H. Bjørn

Bird reserve The municipality of Hammer - fest has presented proposals to the County Governor of Finnmark and the Nor wegian Directo rate for Nature Manage - ment suggesting that the islands of Bond øya, Skipshol - men and Revs holmen (in the municipality of Hammerfest) should be protected bird reserves under Section 37 of the Norwegian Nature Diversity Act. The aim is to protect the large seal and sea bird colo nies there from any future encroach - ments against nature and to raise the status of the area externally in order to promote oil spill contingency measures, research and education. These proposals have been submit - ted for assessment to the County Governor of Finnmark.

[^ Bondøya – the last outpost he island of Bondøya – a small «rock» Each year between February and April Tin the ocean – lies to the north-west of a large colony of grey seals congregates Sørøya. It is approx. 1.2 km long, 400 there in order to graze on the abundant metres wide and 120 metres high. Its name stocks of fish found on the outer side of the is said to date back to the Middle island. Many of these seals come from as far Ages when a man called away as central Norway (the coast of Trønde - Arne Bonde lag) and the White Sea in north-west Russia. was allowed High Arctic species such as walruses, to use the island for hay, eggs and eider hooded seals and duck nests. Bondøya is the last outpost in Greenland seals the municipality of Hammerfest, and only have been observed on rare occasions is the sea calm enough here on several oc - to allow people to go ashore. Bondøya is casions. the kingdom of seals and sea birds.

Bondøya. Photo Geir Systad

[_ The island of Bondøya – a land of legend – our local Atlantis

he island of Bondøya is surrounded He remained in Bergen until the late Tby extensive areas of shallow waters autumn. and many skerries where, according to He then travelled north, returning legend, there used to be a large land - happily to the place where Bondøya was mass inhabited by many people who supposed to be located. But the large made a good living from fishing. island had disappeared and all that was left was the present day island and a Once upon a time a poor Sea Sami boy few skerries and shallow waters. A terri - came to the Island. He was well received ble storm then blew up and they were and the inhabitants did not want him to unable to raise the sails. The boat he leave. Since they were kind to him he was sailing on was blown ashore on liked it there and decided to settle down. Ingøy Island and the Sami man was The legend goes on to relate that the the only one to survive the shipwreck people who lived on Bondøya had their – so he was able to tell his story. Even own boats which they used for taking after a number of years, letters addres - fish to Bergen. When the boy grew up he sed to Bondøya were still arriving from became the skipper on one of them. One Bergen. year three small sailing vessels sailed from Bondøya to Bergen and the Sea Sami man was the skipper on one of them. When they arrived they sold their A former pirate island? fish. But once they had finished and were There is a broadsheet ballad which is about to head for home, he refused to based on a true story which occurred leave the town. He went on the booze two to three hundred years ago and it was impossible to get him to leave. about the crew of a ship who were No matter how hard the others begged engaged in pirate activities in west - and threatened him, he refused to leave. ern Finnmark and who may have He told them to go ahead and that he been based on Bondøya for a while would find his own way back. So the oth - – because the information contained ers had to leave without him. But before in the ballad simply says that they they departed company, they told him to were based somewhere off Sørøy. make sure he returned to Bondøya.

[` Seals and sea birds ondøya has an abundance of different Bspecies of birds, including herring gulls, great grey-backed gulls, kittiwakes, puffins, black guillemots and great and little cormorants. In particular the island serves as an important nesting colony for the large species of gulls and black guille - mots. Sea eagles and golden eagles are common sights, particularly during the spring when they go hunting amongst the large sea bird colonies. The Arctic fulmar is a rare nesting visitor in Finnmark and Bondøya has a small, but permanent nesting colony of these birds. Other rare species of birds which nest on Bondøya include the peregrine falcon and the gannet. The soil on the eastern side of the island is fertile and one of the common species of plants which grows there is com - mon scurvy grass. Bondøya and its sur - rounding skerries, i.e. Flatskjæret and Rundskjæret, are important resting and haul-out sites for grey seals. During the spring, especially in March and April, is it common to see large numbers of grey seals lying and resting on the skerries here. The grey seal features on the Norwegian red list Grey seals on Flatskjæret near Bondøya. Photo Per Hanasand of threatened species.

[a Little Kamøya – Norway’s largest breeding colony of little cormorant

he island of Little Kamøya lies next to sea birds nest here, including several Little Kamøya is also a resting and TGreat Kamøya in the municipality of thousand pairs of puffins and Norway’s haul-out site for grey and common seals. Hammerfest, right between the islands of largest colony of little cormorants. There Golden and sea eagles are a common Bondøya and Sørøya. Large numbers of are also several smaller nesting colonies sight here, and gannets from the colony of kittiwakes, razorbills and common on Gjesværstappen (in the municipality guillemots and even thick-billed murres of Nordkapp (North Cape)) sometimes have been observed here. drop in for a visit. Little Kamøya is a pro - tected bird reserve under the Norwegian

[b Nature Conservation Act, and the island comb (kam=comb)). In ancient times the Little cormorant. is strictly off limits during the nesting sea - inhabitants on the outer side of Sørøya Photo Tor Harry Bjørn son. The terrain on Little Kamøya is steep used to cut hay in the steep pastures on and it has a long ridge of mountain peaks the southern side of the island. (which look rather like the teeth of a

[c Great Kamø ya

The large area of scree near Sørbukta, where the local population spent the winter. Photo Tom E. Ness

\Z – considered to be uninhabitable during the winter months

he island of Great Kamøya is located still be seen. A breakwater has been con - Ton the outer side of Sørøya, right next structed from natural rock down by the to Little Kamøya. The two islands are sea i Sørbukta – quite a masterpice of sepa rated by just a narrow sound. Great stone contruction. Stone age tofts have Kamøya is home to substantial numbers also been found on the northern and of little cormorants and black guillemots eastern sides of the island. Not far from and also serves as a resting and haul-out Sørbukta there is a large area of scree site for grey seals. There has been a consisting of massive blocks of stone. settle ment on the northern end of Great During the evacuation of Finnmark Kamøya, in Sørbukta (South Bay), until towards the end of the second World War, the end of the second World War. (In 1948 the local population spent the winter the main house was demolished and living beneath the largest blocks of stone moved to Hammerfest.) There is still an in Sørbukta. Great Kamøya is mountain - old hay meadow here, and the founda - ous and the top of the highest peak is tion walls of the house and cowshed can 402 metres above sea level.

The large boulder at Sørbukta where locals Picture of the farm at Store Kamøya, summer wintered. Photo Tom E. Ness 1948. Photo Olvar Karlsen

\[ Flor a an d fauna – coming all the way from also spend the winter in the area. These are grey seals congregates there in order to graze Sørøya (and northern Sørøya) has an the feeding grounds for many of the puffins on the abundant stocks of fish found on the abundance of different species of birds, which nest on Little Kamøya and Bondøya. outer side of the island. Many of these seals including s ea eagles, golden eagles, This area is also the most important feeding come from as far away as central Norway (the kestrels, merlins, peregrine falcons, site for Norway’s largest colony of little cor - coast of Trøndelag) and the White Sea in grouse, ravens, crows, ring ouzels, Arc - morants, which also nest on Little Kamøya. north-west Russia. High Arctic species tic skuas, dotterels, ruffs, golden Many species spend the winter here, in - such as walruses and hooded seals have plovers, terns, oyster catchers, red - cluding king eider ducks from the White Sea been observed here on several occasions. shanks, teal, red-necked phala ropes, in north-west Russia and eider ducks from whimbrels, red-throated divers, herring Svalbard (Spitsbergen and elsewhere). This Other species gulls, common gulls, grey-backed gulls, area also hosts rare species such as the Hares, otters, ermine and mink are kittiwakes, great and little cormorants , white-billed diver, which migrates all the common spe cies and can be found all black guillemots, puffins, common way from Siberia to spend the winter here. over the island. guillemots and razorbills, etc. These divers are the largest members of the diver family and they nest far to the east in Florap Many of these nest in large colonies on the Siberia. Every autumn around 90% of the The most prolific species of flora are to be outer side of Sørøya, Bondøya and Little white-billed diver population migrates to found on the sand dunes and among the Kamøya, etc. The rare species which nest spend the winter along the coast of northern birches on the hillsides, interspersed with here include gannets, Arctic fulmars and Norway/Finnmark. Sørøya is also an impor - demanding and often rare species such as skuas. Arctic fulmars and skuas are rare tant nesting area for several species of water fragrant orchids, false musk orchids, Irish nesting birds in Finnmkark, and Bondøya birds such as red-throated divers, black- eyebright and marsh hawksbeard. The north - has small, but permanent colonies of both throated divers, red-breasted mergansers, ern part of Sørøya has chalky bedrock in the species. The skua (a high Arctic species) scaups, pintails, common teal, wigeons, Vassviknæringen, Mt. Kjøttvikfjellet and has been seen nesting on northern Sørøya. gadwalls, tufted ducks, mallard ducks, com - Tarhalsen areas. The snow in this area melts The extensive shallow waters on the mon scoters, red-necked phalaropes, whim - early on in the year and it is dominated by an outer side of Sørøya near Gamvik Fjord, brels, common redshanks and common abundant plant community which includes Gamvikskjæran (a group of small islands), sandpipers. Other common species include prolific species such as mountain avens. Finnfjorden, Finnfjordnæringen, Great and Arctic terns, which nest in huge colonies. The areas around Finvika, Gamvika, Gamvik - Little Kamøya and Bondøya, are Norway’s The outer side of Sørøya is an important dalen, Mt. Kjøttvikfjellet and Mt. Trollbukt - most important nesting sites for thousands home for grey and common seals. Each year fjellet contain large, continuous natural of pairs of black guillemots. Most of these between February and April a large colony of grazing lands which are still intact.

\\ Siberia and the White Sea to spend the winter on Sørøya

Sørøya has an abundance of flora includ - ing the following species: mountain avens, Alpine speedwell, diapensia lapponica, rock speedwell, the heath spotted orchid, sheep’s fescue, black sedge, Bige low’s sedge, dwarf birch, highland rushes, angelica, Alpine saw-wort, blueberries, pyramidal saxifrage, common butterwort, harebells, marsh cinquefoil, rosebay willow herb, black crowberry, mountain birch, meadowsweet, mountain sorrel,

sea thrift, mountain heath, bog rosemary, 8 9 Alpine gentian, false musk orchid, Irish eyebright, gray leaf willow, downy willow, dwarf willow, tea-leafed willow, reindeer lichen, hare’s-tail cottongrass, Alpine timo - thy, Alpine bistort, catsfoot, wood cranes - bill, blue lyme grass, red campion, Alpine milkv etch, whorled Solomon’s-seal, melan choly thistle, golden root, red clover, starry saxifrage, yellow mountain saxifrage, purple saxifrage, cloudberries, common scurvey grass, fragrant orchids, marsh vio - lets and mountain violets, etc.

These areas have been grazed by sheep : ; and reindeer for hundreds of years. Sheep and reindeer farming is important in order to 1: Golden root and common scurveygrass. Photo Tom Eirik Ness. 2: King eider duck. preserve the ancient natural grazing lands on Photo Geir Systad. 3: The hare is not indigenous to Sørøya, but was introduced to the island during northern Sørøya. the 1950s. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn. 4: Red-throated diver. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn

\] Mountain avens, a common species of plant found on Coastal reindeer. Evidence of ancient times Sørøya. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn Photo Tor Harry Bjørn There are many signs of prehistoric settle - ments on Sørøya which date back to the first pioneer settlements which appeared Reindeer – they have been here 10-11,000 years ago. These settlements ever since the last ice age were found mainly along the coast, al - though it is likely that the people moved eindeer are a common species on that it may have commenced when around as changes occurred during the RSørøya and they have been here the use of hunting devices was dis - hunting and fishing seasons. These settle - ever since the last ice age. There are continued during the 16th and 17th ments were often found in open spaces several devices used for catching wild centuries. Today northern Sørøya such as on a headland, which would have reindeer and the island bears evi - provides year-round grazing for a provided access to the sea on several sides dence of some of these, including small reindeer herding farm located and wide-ranging views. The main focus hides, pits and fence lines. These in Akkarfjord. Reindeer herding on would have been on ocean resources. The hunting devices are thought to have northern Sørøya is unique because sparse vegetation which is characteristic of been used as far back as the Stone the number of reindeer does not the coastal landscape on Sørøya accounts Age and up until the 1600s. No-one exceed the available grazing. for the fact that evidence from the past is knows for sure when reindeer herding Reindeer on northern Sørøya are often visible above the ground or just be - started in Finnmark, but it is thought extremely shy around humans. neath thin layers of moss and/or heather.

\^ Mefjord – past glory efjord, which is located on the north - Finnmark lived in Mefjord. Mefjord experi - Mern side of Sørøya, is «an old fishing enced its heyday during the Middle Ages village which in ancient times was amaz - and it is thought that several hundred ingly large and beautiful», wrote the priest, people lived there. Fishing was the most Peder Harboe in a report which he sent to important way of making a living and the the King in Copenhagen in 1727. Mefjord large fishing banks off Sørøya were just a was the largest and only site of a church in short distance away. Hammerfest in the Middle Ages, and it is Mefjord experienced a decline after The first tractor on Sørøya. considered to be the «predecessor» of the the majority of its fishermen died when Photo Fredrik Neregård town of Hammerfest (founded in 1789). ten fishing boats disappeared one night It is hard to say how long people have while out at sea. During the 1600s the which was demolished in 1674 – it is been living there, but probably since the population of Mefjord continued to fall assumed that it was built some time days of the Vikings. The oldest tax rolls and Hammerfest took over the role of between 1250 and 1350. It was the main dating back to 1520 show that almost four local government with effect from 1620. church for the small villages located on per cent of the taxpayers registered in Mefjord used to have its own church northern Sørøya and in Hammerfest.

Kjempegrava (the Giant’s Mound) Since ancient times the people of Mefjord have always known about the mound that could have been created by humans. It used to be called the Giant’s Mound. This mound is located on the north-eastern side of Mt. Fugle - fjellet, looking out over Mefjord. It is not known if this mound was created by humans or if it resulted from the Mefjord. Photo Paul Nilsen v agaries of nature.

\_ Vassvika

Vassvika (Vass Inlet) in the October sun

\` Photo Fredrik Neregård

\a Take off your shoes and run barefoot down Mt. Sandfjellet. Feel the sand, which is like a healing balm for your body and soul. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn Mt. Sandfjellet – a whole mountain of sand

n the northern side of Sørøya there are Oseve ral large, continuous sandy beaches, shifting fields of sand and sand dune complexes which are located in Fin - vika (Storsanden – a large, sandy beach), Akkarfjordeidet, Gamvika, Mt. Sandfjellet and Kjøttvika. These are well developed and have barely suffered at all from the encroachments of nature. Mt. Sandfjellet in Gamvika is a unique natural formation consisting of a whole mountainside of approx. 300 m of fine- grained mineral sand deposits (mixed with shell and coral sand fragments), which re - news itself when the wind is blowing in the right direction. Mt. Sandfjellet is a geological attraction which is unique in Norway.

Mt. Sandfjellet, a unique natural formation. Photo Fredrik Neregård

\b \c Akkarfjord – a fishing village with 80 residents and two camels

kkarfjord is a fjord on the northern inhabitants from seven different countries A side of Sørøya in the municipality of (Norway, Germany, Belgium, Poland, Chile, Hammerfest, just a 25-minute ferry trip Somalia and Rumania), a school with 11 from Hammerfest. This fjord runs for a dis - pupils, a fish processing business with six tance of 4 km to the fishing village of employees, two shops and two camels. Akkarfjord in the inner reaches of the The community of Akkarfjord is cur - fjord. The earliest information about the rently experiencing a period of prosperity village can be found in ancient land regis - thanks to its proximity to Hammerfest, the ters dating back to 1567, although nothing influx of new residents and the excellent is said about how many people lived fishing grounds off northern Sørøya. there. Today the village has approx. 80 Akkarfjord played a key role in the fishing industry in Finnmark during the period 1920 –1987.

Akkarfjord during stormy weather. Photo Paul Nilsen

Northern camel. Photo Spor Design/ Øystein Sætereng ][ Gamvik Gjestegård (Gamvik Guest Farm). Photo Paul Nilsen

]\ Gamvik Gjestegård (guest far m ) – 3,200 km north of Antwerp

amvik Gjestegård is located in Everything was burnt down during the Smis family from Antwerp in Belgium took GGamvika (Gam Bay) on the northern evacuation of Finnmark in the autumn of over the farm in 2004 and they are now side of Sørøya. This farm has been 1944, but the farm was rebuilt using farming there permanently, with sheep worked actively for the last 150 years, Russian driftwood that had drifted there farming and tourism forming the main engaged in both agriculture and fishing. on ocean currents from the east. The part of their business.

]] Finvik an d Storsand – over a kilometre of white sandy beaches

invik is located at the northern end of agricultural village dating back to the 17th still standing and are currently being used FStorsanden (in Finvik) in the inner and 18th centuries, and probably even as holiday homes. Storsanden is a large, reaches of Gamvik Fjord, approx. 5 km further back in time. The old hay meadow sandy beach which is approx. 1.3 km from Akkfarfjord. It was inhabited up until is currently rented by the Smis family in long, consisting of mineral sand deposits 1991 when the last permanent residents Gamvik. Many of the houses, which were mixed with fragments of shells and coral. moved to Hammerfest. Finvik is an old rebuilt after the second World War, are This beach is a popular destination for the local population of the area, and increas - ing numbers of people from Hammerfest are finding their way out here. There are large sand dunes extending between Stor - sanden and Akkarfjordeidet and blue lyme grass can be found growing there. Local sand storms occur here during the summer when the wind is blowing in the right direction.

Left: Finvik, with Storsanden in the background. Photo Tom Eirik Ness

Right: A kilometre of white sandy beaches. Photo Fredrik Neregård

]^ ]_ Innovative Mountain Tourism – boosting the quality of hiking in Norway

n conjunction with NCE-Tourism – The municipality of Hammerfest IFjord Norway, Nord Norsk Reisliv has entered into a joint venture with AS, Fjell Norway and Innovation Nor - Hammerfest og Omegn Turlag (the way, the Norwegian Trekking Associ - Ramblers’ Association for Hammer - ation has developed national fest and its surrounding area) and standards for signposting and the Hammerfest Turist about the use of classification of footpaths/trails. Innovative Mountain Tourism’s stan - The aim is to improve the quality of dards for signposting and the classi - hiking in Norway, as well as to lower fication of all footpaths/trails in the the threshold for participation in municipality of Hammerfest (Sørøya, nature-based activities and to pro - Kvaløya and Seiland). vide the local population, visitors and tourists with good experiences of the natural environment. Photo Tom Eirik Ness

General Easy Medium Demanding Expert

These symbols show the degree of difficulty of a walk. Black symbols on a white background are general walks, i.e. not classified.

]`

The aurora borealis over Sørøya. In the foreground: the hut by Gamvik lake. Photo Lars Mathisen

]a Sources • NINA – Norwegian Institute for Nature Research (NINA) Tromsø department, researchers Geir Systad and Karl Birger Strann. Report 444–2008: Monitoring of seabirds and acute emissions from Snøhvit • Årbok for lokalhistorie og kultur i Hammerfest: Yearbook from Hammerfest Historical Society, Øyfolket 2010 • Kartlegging av naturtyper – verdisetting av biologisk mangfold i Hammerfest kommune, 2012. (Mapping nature types, evaluation of biological diversity) • Sørøysund lokalhistorie (Sørøysund local history): Rang - vald Jacobsen. Hammerfest 1963. • Havets gull – Fiskekjøpere i Nord-Troms og Finnmark (Gold of the Oceans): Reidar Nielsen. Fiskeprodusentenes Fond 2012. • Tromura – botaniske undersøkelser i Finnmark (botanical surveys in Finnmark): Tromsø museum, 1994. • Ishavsfyr (Polar ocean lighthouse): Eli Johanne Ellingsve, Tapir Akademiske Forlag, Trondheim, 2012. • Karl J. Johansen, Akkarfjord (Hammerfest). Reidar Johan - sen, Akkarfjord (Hammerfest). Alvin Vaseli, Akkarfjord. Bruno Smies, Gamvik. Jørn Berg, Hammerfest municipality (Finvik). Øyvind Sundquist, Hammerfest kommune. Petter Næss, Mefjord. Paul Nilsen, Akkarfjord. Ellen Kvalsvik, Akkarfjord. Ann Kristin Kvalsvik, Akkarfjord. Tor Birger Jakobsen, Karmøy, Rogaland (from Store Kamøya). Elin Albrigtsen, Akkarfjord

Botanical Studies on Sørøya (field handbook about plants on Sørøya) – a joint venture project between the municipality of Hammerfest and the Kola Sciences Centre, by Researcher Natalia Koroleva and the Norwegian Barents Secretariat (2011 –2013). Kirov Department. Photo Natalia Koroleva. Illustrations: Alena Matveeva, Hammerfest

]b Important addresses • Akkarfjord hostel (run by students) • Kulturbanken Galleri Tel. +47 951 99 892. www.syvstjerna.no [email protected] Tel. +47 7841 9134/ • Chroscinski Bygg AS (Builder and painter) Zbigniew + 47 7841 9153 Chroscinski. Tel. +47 463 74 917. • Naturfoto Paul Nilsen, Akkarfjord, Tel. +47 915 99 373 • Verdens nordligste as (The world’s most northerly limited • Naturfoto Tor Harry Bjørn, Hammerfest, Tel. +47 934 90 883. company) Sverre Gjørvad. Tel. +47 906 01 117. www.bio-bjorn.no e-mail: [email protected] • Naturfoto v/Lars Mathisen, Hammerfest, Tel. +47 900 54 851 • BATO – boats, ferry transport, activities, sightseeing • Johan Kvalsvik as Ann Kristin Kvalsvik, Akkarfjord, Svein Tore Paulsen. Tel. +47 994 02 265. Tel. +47 907 21 527 e-mail: [email protected]. www.bato.no • Livskunst I Nord Inspirasjon Ellen-Johanne Kvalsvik, Tel. • Hammerfest Industriservice AS Meridiangt. 45, Hammerfest. +47 7841 9133/9700 2239, e-mail: [email protected] Tel. +47 78 42 73 00. www.hisas.no • Akkarfjord forbrukerlag (Grocery and convenience store) • Nordre Sørøy Næringsforening/trade and industry Tel. +47 7841 9127 association 9650 Akkarfjord. Member companies: • Akkarfjord Bygdelag (regional society) Tel. +47 78 41 91 40 Akkarfjord Mekaniske Kjøkken Functions, party arrange - • Bygderuta: BOREAL – Transport/ Hurtigbåten (Mårøy), ments and catering: Elin Albrigtsen, Tel. +47 971 44 633, Tel. +47 489 94 323 e-mail: [email protected] • Timetable and sailing information for Finnmark Tel. +47 177 Eidegården as Farm tourism in the process of development • Hammerfest kommune Service office Tel. +47 78 40 25 00 Geir Skoglund, Tel. +47 452 03 714. Box 726, 9487 Harstad. www.hammerfest.kommune.no e-mail: [email protected] www.facebook.com/EidegardenAs • Hammerfest kommune Department for planning Gamvik Gjestegård/Guesthouse: Bruno or Annemie, & Development Tel 971 98 795/78 40 25 54 Tel. +47 902 66 454/952 23 322, e-mail: bruno.smis@ • Hammerfest Tourist Bureau Tel. +47 78 41 21 85. gamvik-nordre.no www.gamvik-nordre.no www.hammerfest-turist.no Road-Runner Rental of sound, lighting and acoustic equip - • Rica Hotel, Hammerfest Tel. +47 78 42 57 00 ment Trond Hanssen, Tel. +47 986 53 254, • Thon Hotel, Hammerfest Tel. +47 78 42 96 00 e-mail: [email protected] • Småviltjakt & fiske (hunting and fishing) Finnmark Estate Spor Design Profiling, communications and design. agency: www.fefo.no – www.inatur.no. Service Tel. +47 09975 Kamelbølgen. Centre for culture and conference centre in the • Hammerfest og Omegn Turlag (Hiking Association) process of development: Øystein or Oddveig, http://hammerfest.turistforeningen.no/ Tel. +47 905 58 645/971 62 380. • Sørøya Gjestestue/Guesthouse, Sandøybotn for holidays, e-mail: [email protected]. Facebook: Bor & Bestla hunting and fishing Einar and IIona Røe. Tel. +47 7841 9318/+ 47 9188 1021. e-mail: [email protected]. www.gjestestua.no Background photos Fredrik Neregård

]c Tarhalsskjæran 0 0 0 Fyr- 1

Tarhalsen 1 lykt 8 6

Northern Sørøya 4

· Fyr- S A vokter- a

Drinking water k i

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Grocery shop G Tarhalshytta (Tarhalseidet) Ancient monument Lean-to Farm/farm tourism Express ferry Hammerfes t–Akkarfjord Cabin, unmanned – overnight accommodation Storbukta Cultural monument Vardbukta Viewpoint White-tailed eagle. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn Grotto Høgfjellet Cycle path For degree of difficulty please see page 36 Footpath For degree of difficulty please see page 36 Information Vardfjellet Kjøttvik- Kvitneset varden Publlic road Footpaths/trails Ferry route Nasen 0 200 400 600 800 1000 m Vassvika

Kjøttvika Staurneset Vassvik- Cloudberry. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn næringen

Staurfjellet

Troll- Trollbukta bukt- Gamvika vatnet Gamvikvann- hytta Trollbukt- Gamvik- neset vatnet Sand- fjellet Mefjord- vatnet Little cormorant. Photo Tor Harry Bjørn Finvik- Mefjorden neset

Hamnefjellet Russevika

Hamnevatnet

Akkarfjord

Finvika Stornærings- Eidet S School/accommodation bukta Storsand The Lighthouse Keeper's Path. Photo Tom Eirik Ness

Lillenærings- Bismarvika bukta