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Chile & Easter Island 9 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Chile ........... 2 Map .................................. 4 20 Top Experiences ....... 6 Welcome to Chile Need to Know ................. 16 If You Like ........................ 18 COUNTRY • The original Month by Month ............. 21 • Comprehensive • AdventurousAdventu Itineraries ........................ 23 (p ) g Artes (Beautiful Art) – says it all. Fan À ne arts can spend the day admiring works at the Museo Nacional de Bel and the Museo de Arte Contemporá housed in the stately Palacio de Bell Chile Outdoors ............... 28 before checking out edgy modern ph and sculpture at the nearby Museo d Meet A LandVisuales. of Along the way, take stayeda brea kintact for so long. The very human Extremes several sidewalk cafes along thequest co bfor development could imperil these pedestrian streets. Palacio detreasures Bellas A sooner than we think. For now, Travel with Children ....... 33 20Preposterously thin and unreasonably Chile guards parts of our planet that re- ong, Chile stretches from the belly of main the most pristine, and they shouldn’t outh America toParque its foot, reaching Nacional from be To missed.r he driest desert delon earth Paine to vast southern TOP lacial À elds. It’s nature on a symphonic La Buena Onda Some rites of passage never los EXPERIENCEScale. Diverse landscapes unfurl over a In Chile, close borders foster intimacy. peal, so strap on that heavy pac Regions at a Glance ....... 35 300kmstretch:parcheddunesfertile 2 No matter where you go it feels a little through howling steppe and winding behold these holiest-of-holy granite spires (p 359 ). Las Torres may be the attraction of its namesake park, but wilderness has much more to oՖ er. I sculpted surface of Glacier Grey, exp quiet backside of the circuit, kayak t Serrano or ascend John Gardner Pas 2 ing views of the southern ice À eld. 1 Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travelers. Norte BOLIVIA El Tatio Chico Sur Chico Chiloé Geysers •# •# SanPedrodeAtacama BRAZIL Valle de la Luna •# #÷ Beaches 33 Parks 333 Churches 333 Reserva PAR AGUAY NacionalLos PHRASEBOOK Activities 333 Outdoors 333 Culture 33 Flamencos É SHOESTRING Architecture 3 Lakes 333 Nature 33 CHILE ARGENTINA É •# Portillo •# Big trips, Valparaíso #_ SANTIAGO • ‚ URUGUAY Beaches Parks Churches É A string of pretty Sur Chico parks These Unesco To Easter Island small budgets beaches lines the oՖ er a wealth of Word Heritage site •# Pucón PACIFIC coast of Norte landscapes. Climb churches will have •# PuertoMontt OCEAN Chico, including Volcán Villarrica you worshipping Chiloé •# Multicountry É • activity hubs like and peer into its architecture. Each ATLAN TIC buzzy La Serena gas-spewing crater. village centerpiece OCEAN as well as virtually Other parks show- was built at the call virgin strips of sand case alpine lakes, of Jesuit missionar- and hip beach hide- araucaria forests ies in the 17th and aways like the tiny and ski slopes. 18th centuries. Bahía Inglesa. Outdoors Culture Activities While trekkers Chiloé’s distinctive You can climb the relish the laundry Á avor, notable in world’s highest list of trails, rafting, mythology and active volcano, Ojos kayaking, canopy folklore, lives in del Salado, sail the zip lines, mountain the architecture of coast around Bahía biking and volcano churches and pal- Looking for other travel resources? Inglesa, hop on a climbing are other afitos (stilt houses). boat to see Hum- great options here. Cuisine dates to PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 417 Learn about the big picture, so you CHILE can make sense of what you see Chile Today ..................... 418 population per sq km History ............................. 420 CHILE USA UK Life in Chile ...................... 433 ≈ 1 person Chilean Wine ................... 435 Literature & Chile Today LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE Literature & Cinema ...... 438 Cinema For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Too bad there is no award for the most dogged country, because Chile While poetry has long been the golden nugget of this n would be a serious candidate. After an 8.8 earthquake hit oՖ the central Chilean cinema is gaining world recognition. In the last g coast in February 2010, Chile dug in. The earthquake carried the power advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas military dictatorship prompted an artistic exodus and c of 10,000 Hiroshima bombs: with the ensuing tsunami it was responsi e The Natural World .......... 441 modern Chile has rebounded with a fresh and sometim for hundreds of deaths and US$30 billion dollars in damage. Yet two chapters phasis on the arts. months later, students returned to school, and the aՖ ected roads, orts lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine and air orts were up. In large part the recovery depended on citizens L iterature & Poetry who hel ed each other with no formal emergency res onse in lace National Parks ................ 447 Chile: A Traveler’s Twentieth-century Chile has produced many of Latin A Literary Com- celebrated writers. The most acclaimed are poets Pablo N panion (2003), boxed text, opposite) and Gabriela Mistral, both Nobel Pri edited by Kath- erine Silver, is an Mistral (born Lucila Godoy Alcayaga; 1889–1957) was a appetite-whetting ral schoolmistress from Elqui Valley who won great acclai whiz through passionate, reÁ ective and mystical poetry. She became So Chile’s rich liter- À rst Nobel Prize winner for literature in 1945. STAY IN TOUCH ary tradition, with Nicanor Parra (b 1914) drew Nobel Prize attention for h snippets from the work of many top ential and colloquial ‘antipoetry.’ De Hojas e Parr From writers, including Parra) and Poemas y antipoemas (Poems and Anti oems lonelyplanet.com/contact Neruda, Dorf- well known Bohemian Jorge Tellier 1935–96 wrote oe AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-583-7 facebook.com/ 99525 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 795837 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter chile-easter-island-9-cover.indd 2 29/06/2012 1:53:19 PM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips Norte Grande p142 Easter Island Norte Chico (Rapa Nui) p193 p401 Santiago p40 Middle Chile p87 Sur Chico p223 Chiloé p284 Northern Patagonia p305 Southern Patagonia p339 Tierra del Fuego p378 PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 451 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP Directory A–Z ................. 452 Transportation ............... 463 Language Spanish pronunciation is easy, as most sounds have equivalents in English. Read our ko·mo se ya·ma oo·ste pronunciation guides as if they were English, ko·mo te ya·mas (inf) and you’ll be understood. Note that Do you speak English? Language ........................ 473 throaty sound (like the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch), v and b are like a soft English ‘v’ (be- a·bla een·gles (pol) tween a ‘v’ and a ‘b’), and a·blas een·gles (inf) The stressed syllables are indicated with an acute accent in written Spanish (eg with italics in our pronunciation guides. ACCOMMODATIONS Index ................................ 487 The polite form is used in this chapter; I’d like a single/double room. where both polite and informal options are kee·sye·ra oo·na given, they are indicated by the abbrevia- a·bee·ta·syon tions ‘pol’ and ‘inf’. Where necessary, both een·dee·vee·dwal/do·b masculine and feminine forms of words are How much is it per night/person? included, separated by a slash and with the kwan·to kwes·ta por Map Legend .................... 494 masculine form À rst, eg no·che/per·so·na Does it include breakfast? BASICS een·kloo·ye el lo. Hola. o de·sa··yoo·n ye. Adiós. ou? ¿Qué tal? aire acond Bien, gracias. cionad dón THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Carolyn McCarthy, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Bridget Gleeson, Anja Mutić, Kevin Raub Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required SANTIAGO . .40 NORTE GRANDE . 142 SUR CHICO . .223 AROUND SANTIAGO . 80 Arica . 143 LA ARAUCANÍA . 226 Pomaire . .80 Chile 11 Highway. .154 Temuco . .226 Maipo Valley Wineries . .82 Putre . .156 Parque Nacional Cajón del Maipo . .82 Parque Nacional Lauca . 159 Tolhuaca . 230 Ski Centers . .85 South of Parque Parque Nacional Nacional Lauca . .160 Conguillío . .231 MIDDLE CHILE . 87 Iquique . 161 Curacautín . .233 Pica . 173 Reserva Nacional VALPARAÍSO & Malalcahuello-Nalcas . .233 THE CENTRAL COAST . 90 Calama . 174 Melipeuco . .234 Valparaíso . .90 Chuquicamata . 175 Villarrica . .235 Viña del Mar . .102 San Pedro de Atacama . 177 Pucón . .238 Casablanca Valley Reserva Nacional Los Wineries . .107 Flamencos . 187 Parque Nacional Villarrica . .244 ACONCAGUA VALLEY . 110 El Tatio Geysers . .189 Río Liucura Valley . .246 Antofagasta . .189 SOUTHERN HEARTLAND . .112 Parque Nacional Colchagua Valley . 113 Huerquehue . .247 NORTE CHICO .
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