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THE CENTER FOR MIDDLE EASTERN STUDIES NEWS HARVARD UNIVERSITY SPRING 2016 2 LETTER FROM THE DIRECTOR A message from William Granara 3 WINTER TERM IN TURKEY AND TUNISIA CMES inaugurates two new study excursions 5 NEWS AND NOTES Updates from faculty, students, alumni, and visiting researchers; Q&A with Sheida Dayani 16 EVENT HIGHLIGHTS Spring lectures, workshops, and conferences LETTER FROM THE DIRECTOR SPRING 2016 HIGHLIGHTS AS WE DRAW TO THE CLOSE OF ANOTHER ACADEMIC YEAR, CMES can take great pride in this year’s roster of events and accomplishments. Among the highlights were visits by Ambassadors Frank Ricciardone (fall) and Greta Holtz (spring) from the US Department of State, who met with our master’s students to discuss careers in government and foreign service. CMES also hosted a lecture by Algerian journalist and novelist Kamel Daoud, author of the highly acclaimed Meursault Investigation, who discussed the role and challenges of public intellectuals in today’s Middle East. This year’s symposia and workshops included Symposium on Gallipoli 1915, Iraq: Possible Futures— Including a Return to the Past, both convened by Professor Roger Owen, and The Iran–Iraq War: Literature, Art, and Film. CMES visiting scholars Elizabeth Shlala and Saime Ozcurumez organized a workshop, Migration and Health Care. Finally, I would like to congratulate Professor Cemal Kafadar for completing an outstanding year with his Sohbet-i Osmani forum, which enjoyed a record-breaking number of lectures and attendance. Among the most exciting additions to CMES this year were the inaugural winter term programs for CMES students. In January, I led a group of nine students to Tunis, Tunisia, to tour the country, meet with writers, filmmakers, and academics, and to introduce them to national sites for archival research. Also in January, CMES doctoral student Jesse Howell and CMES administrative and academic assistant Carol Ann Litster accompanied eight undergraduates to Cunda, Turkey, to explore the country’s rich heritage as a bridge between east and west. I would take this time to pay special tribute to Professor Roy Mottahedeh, Gurney Professor of History and former CMES director, who will retire after thirty years of stellar teaching of Islamic history, mentoring students, supervising dissertations, and adding richly to the CMES community. We offer him and his wife, Pat, all best wishes for a flourishing retirement! In closing, I’m happy to say that I have concluded my first three-year term as CMES’s director, and have happily accepted the offer to serve another term. I thank my highly efficient and professional staff, my esteemed colleagues, and especially our magnificent students, who make CMES such a pleasurable workplace. Wishing you all a well deserved summer break, full of peace, good health, and many days at the beach, —William Granara, CMES Director ON THE COVER: Street in the medina of Kairouan, Tunisia, by PhD student Chloe Bordewich WINTER TERM IN TURKEY AND TUNISIA “The Middle East is a part of the world that you’ll never really understand fully unless you get your feet on the ground, unless you go there and smell it and taste it and feel it and breathe and eat and sleep it,” says William Granara, CMES Director and Gordon Gray Professor of the Practice of Arabic. “It’s very important that all of our students, whether Alex Dagi, Caleb Lewis, Raya Koreh, Colton Peppelman, Cybele Greenberg, master’s or PhD students or Alice Hu, Seniha Ipekci, Carol Ann Litster, and Nancy Ko in Turkey undergraduates who enroll in our language programs or in any Middle Eastern regional studies uates to Tunis, so we devoted all assistant Carol Ann Litster. about how history was right in courses, have opportunities to the spaces in the Turkey trip to Howell has traveled to all front of us, and Jesse would ex- go to the region.” This January undergraduates,” said Granara. corners of Turkey, spent a year plain the histories and how they CMES created two more The students began with living in Istanbul as a research connect to the present context such opportunities. Through four days in Istanbul, visiting fellow, and during the past two in a way that was academic vigorous fundraising efforts and the Sultanahmet Mosque, summers has worked as the but also accessible. It really the generous support of donors, Topkapı Palace, the Hagia program coordinator for the epitomized what learning on CMES inaugurated what will Sophia Museum, and other Harvard–Sabancı University the ground is about,” said Alice become annual winter term monuments from the city’s Summer Program. Litster has Hu (’18). “There was a synergy study excursions to the Middle Byzantine and Ottoman past. visited Turkey on several oc- between our formal learning, East and North Africa region: They explored the layers of casions and previously helped what we were reading, and “Continuity and Change in history found in the old city lead a group of high school what was before our eyes: being Aegean Turkey and Istanbul” and along the Bosphorus, students on a month-long trip on the Bosphorus, seeing the and “Tunisia: Mediterranean taking time to sample Turkey’s to the country. fog, the water, and the waves, Crossroads.” exquisite cuisine along the way. “One of the best features of learning about hüzün, this Eight undergraduates made The trip was led by Jesse this trip was the opportunity untranslatable term that kind the trip to Turkey. Some had Howell, an advanced PhD to travel with Jesse, who is of means melancholy but also previously traveled to the student at CMES currently such a well-informed source on something different. Everything Middle East while others had completing his dissertation on Ottoman history,” said Cybele just pieced together so well.” not. “Because of travel restric- overland travel networks in the Greenberg (’16). The heart of the trip was an tions, this first year we were Ottoman Balkans, and CMES “In Istanbul we walked to extended stay on Cunda Island advised not to send undergrad- administrative and academic all these monuments, thinking on Turkey’s Aegean coast, at the (continued on next page) SPRING 2016 | CMESNEWS 3 Ayışığı (Moonlight) Monastery, shopping in the city’s famed think what highlighted this was endpoint of what Harvard tries a recently restored Greek bazaars. the fact that we were on Cunda, to do in a lot of ways.” monastery. Located directly “Even though there weren’t an island that used to be ‘Greek’ The Tunisia excursion was on the sea and surrounded by formal academic requirements, and is now ‘Turkish,’ and I led by Professor Granara. Three olive groves, the monastery is we studied every day on this put those in quotation marks PhD and six master’s students a serene location for reading, trip,” said Greenberg. “But our because these nation-state made the trip, which covered reflection, and conversation. study was to be immersed in identities are very real but also Tunisia’s Carthaginian, medi- During their stay on the island, this new environment. There constructed by modernization. eval Islamic, Ottoman, French students engaged with the were no superfluous activities. Being on that island that is at Colonial, and modern (republic) region’s complex past through All the activities had been very once Turkish but also Greek histories, combining readings a variety of readings and well developed and orga- made me more alert to other and visits to sites of academic films, explored enduring local nized so that we could learn possible legacies of empire into and cultural interest including traditions such as olive oil pro- something about the culture. modernization, not just in Tur- ruins at Carthage, the grand duction and shipbuilding, and We studied by doing and by key but around the world.” mosque of Kairouan, the Bardo enjoyed a hands-on introduc- experiencing, and that was “I was surprised by how and Raqqada museums, and the tion to Aegean cuisine. supplemented on Cunda with deep a connection I feel like I medinas of Tunis and Kairouan. “I think the food was a more traditional seminar-style made with Turkey, even though “We covered a lot of terri- central part of the learning discussion. Walking around, we were only there for three tory,” said Granara, “geographic, in that the most interesting seeing monuments, learning the weeks,” said Caleb Lewis (’17). historical, and academic as well. conversations we had happened place of the bazaars in everyday “Turkey had never really been Most of the students already over food,” said Greenberg. culture for Turkish people— on my radar in a thoughtful, had some experience with “Food is such a good way to that was definitely the biggest real way, but now I find myself Middle Eastern cultures and connect to people when you’re learning experience.” reading news about Turkey, countries but not Tunisia per in a foreign place, and food is Regardless of students’ about Istanbul, things that are se, so this trip opened the door a core part of the culture: this expectations or previous going on in areas that we saw, to them, not only to Tunisia but is what people eat here; this is experience going in, they all and I feel like I have some sort also to North Africa, and to the their sustenance.” encountered surprises during of connection to or investment specificities of Tunisia within “It was the best food I’ve the course of the trip. in a part of the world that I had the broader North African, ever had, period,” said Hu. “I expected to be immersed never come into contact with Mediterranean, and Middle “I dream about it,” added in the history and culture of before.