BUILDING CONVERSATIONS | En Route

Bhutan Architect Arpan Shah explores the unique architectural vibe that permeates the quaint hills of

Facing page: arbon Negative amalgamation of old and new (Top) The main market street Happiness Positive’, is buildings bonded by traditional and buildings in something that appends elements gives it a harmonious ‘C a simple yet mesmerising unity, one that’s very different from (Both bottom) in experience while in Bhutan. European streets. In this unity, Thimphu The salubrious climate, mellow there is diversity of colour, scale townhouses, and indigenous and an oriental quality. While the spaces interjected with the western world emphasises system majestic best and dissolves the individual, illustrate this peaceful and here, the individual has a unique tranquil country. expression, evident even in their While contemplating through dresses - the ‘’ for women and the porthole window of the ‘’ for men. Flight, I was excited to explore the In Thimphu, the facades country of Bhutan, which is said speak through colours, patterns ARPAN SHAH Founder, Modo Designs to embrace global development and symbols, all forming a along with its Buddhist tradition characteristic culture which is Once an architecture student at CEPT Ahmedabad, Arpan Shah and culture. The ‘Land of the organic and unique to the cities of set up Modo Designs almost 17 Thunder Dragon’ possesses Bhutan. The houses are introverted years ago as a firm dedicated many varied landscapes, and it’s with small windows and a towards creating progressive a country where the is red characteristic sloping roof, and the and appropriate architecture for and where chillies are the main buildings are box-like and suited residential, commercial, institutional and corporate projects. The award- ingredient of the local people. for the cold climate. You can also winning firm works on creating Essentially a Buddhist land, expect a regular smile and greeting, sensible, imaginative and innovative Bhutan is not frozen in time, and “Kuzuzangpo La” from the simple, architecture in . it’s this blending of ancient and hospitable people. modern that makes it endlessly The modern buildings in enchanting. Thimphu are smooth finished, RCC The walk through the structures with some Bhutanese traditionally embellished Paro elements. But I soon came to airport was suggestive of the experience their time-honoured unique cultural realm I was and authentic architecture, seen in entering. I sensed an air of peace the palace temple Simtokha Dzong and tranquility as if I’d gone back built in the 16th century. The stark into time, far from the hectic white base is made of local stone polluted urban city I’d left behind. to complement the ornate upper On arriving in Thimphu, the part that opens to the outside. The capital of Bhutan, one inevitably white tones of the facade change to passes through the wonderful a range of colours in the interior of market street. The delicate the temple.

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The earthy paintings on the walls, This Bhutanese fortress is depending upon the altitude, This page: in and the colourful suspended yet another architectural from the Alpines Steppes on Thumphu elements are all symbolic of a blend that is currently the the highest level to Fir and Pine Facing page: story and its meaning, and that is homestead of the Bhutanese forests at the middle level to (Top left) Simtokha Dzong in Thimphu what separates the natural world government. The concept of sub-tropical forests at the lower (Top right) from the world of art. If nature is three distinctive sections - level, the expansive landscapes Tashichho Dzong in Thumphu a science, then art communicates monarchy, administration and and untouched wilderness left (Bottom) Fertility messages, stories, meanings and spirituality - next to the banks of us overwhelmed. From this Temple at Dochula world views, and architecture is the Wang Chhu river emanates high point of was Pass one of its mediums. as an impressive and thoughtful a meandering road down to So here was a structure built combination. the town of and the using local natural materials While in Thimphu, I felt the wonderful that and with local techniques and presence of a strong conservative awaited us. sensibilities, with the purpose of culture that protects its values, The first glimpse of Punakha protecting its place of worship ways and natural surroundings. Dzong was no less than a and evoking spiritual experience It is essential for the people to be dramatic experience. The within. The stark, rough stoned similar and that implies a subtle building sits on the confluence white walls complemented the individual difference, something of the Mo Chu and Pho Chu upper base made of wood, which that one sees in the natural world. rivers, and creates a stunning was painted with carvings and In a sense, the culture here is an spectacle when the evening light symbols. This narrated a unique extension of nature. falls on it. The walk towards it contrast of raw nature with My expedition from Thimphu by a bridge over the river was refined art. to Punakha via Dochula pass at just as dramatic as its intricate The Tashichho Dzong was 3,000 metres above sea level architectural elements, which again similar in character but offered a panoramic view of the began to unravel as we got closer. majestic in scale, especially snow covered majestic To get to the arrival point at a against the backdrop of and mountain ranges of Bhutan. high altitude, we had to clamber the mountain ranges. With 12 distinctive landscapes over innumerable steps.

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From the main vestibule, I was greatly benefited by my after four hours of climbing (This page and facing page both we entered a large court. The sojourn during the festival season through a steep landscape, the top) organisation was linear, with here; we witnessed the traditional journey alternating between tiring Punakha Dzong three courts separated by Bhutanese style masquerade moments and breathtaking vistas, (Facing page bottom) Tiger’s Nest buildings between them and dance, the re-enactments of until finally culminating at the in Paro surrounding the structure as well. Bhutan’s victory over Tibet monastery at the top. With an introverted organisation amidst the firecrackers, and the The culture of Bhutan is distinct that was reminiscent of Indian performances of battle scenes and defined, its varying landscapes temples, each court had its being acted out in Punakha much like its different states with characteristic facade, with the last Dzong. It is believed that the peculiar patterns that emanate one being the most elaborate and divine blessing of Paro Thongdrel, from local ways and genius loci. the main entry to the temple. a religious image, unfolds during Here, it’s not about conquering, Each of these Dzongs in the festive ceremony. but about merging and flowing different parts of Bhutan As a final exploration, we made with nature. The positive vibes have peculiar characteristics our way to the cultural icon of persuade me to quote the lines by of Bhutanese style, which is Bhutan - , famously environmental philosopher John quite bold. The architecture known as Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Muir, “In every walk with nature, that was built centuries ago A revered place of pilgrimage in one receives far more than one was indigenous, unaltered by the Himalayan region, Tiger’s Nest seeks.” It is here that one can be foreign influences, much like the is an emanating rock overlooking at peace, slow down and be with territorial flora. The immediate a vast chasm, with a monastery oneself in the wilderness. It is the implication for architects here, on one side. Beneath the rock, last great Himalayan kingdom, is the need to understand these and across the chasm from the shrouded in mystery and magic, local aspects and find bold monastery, the cliff ropes a couple where a traditional Buddhist characteristic ways to interpret of thousand feet to the canyon culture is carefully orchestrating the purpose of these buildings. below. The place itself is reached itself with the global developments. H&DT

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