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Home , Arch of Janus, Domus Augustana, Forum Boarium, San Giorgio in Velabro, Temple of Portunus

03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:03 Pagina 1

Walks in

Comune di Roma Tourism

The Cradle of Civilization From the to the Palatine 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:03 Pagina 2

Co

Rome for you Information series on the City of Rome

Produced by: Cosmofilm spa - Elio de Rosa, editore Texts: Alberto Tagliaferri, Valerio Variale (Cultural Association Mirabilia Urbis) Editorial coordination: Emanuela Bosi Graphics and page setting: Marco C. Mastrolorenzi Translation edit by: Stephen Geoffrey Wheeler

Photos: D. Bianca: cover, p. 3, 15, 24, 25, 27 bottom, 31,32, 33; C. De Santis: p. 2, 10, 11, 18 top, 19 bottom, 23, 26, 28, 29, 30, 34, 38; P. Soriani: p. 14, 16; Visual space: p. 12, 13 bottom, 35, 36, 37; SSPMR: 27 top; Cosmofilm Archive: p. 9, 13 top, 17, 18 bottom, 19 top, 20, 21, 22

On the cover, the Temple of On this page, the Arch of the Argentarii, panel in relief 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:03 Pagina 3

Walks in Rome

Comune di Roma Tourism • The Forum Boarium 8 1. , the Bocca della Verità and Hercules’s Great Altar 9 2. Walking, walking... 12 3. The Temple of Hercules Invictus and the 14 4. Walking, walking... 17 5. 26 6. Walking, walking... 29 7. The 30 8. Walking, walking... 33

• The Palatine 34

Temple of Hercules Invictus, detail of a capital The Cradle of Civilization From the Forum Boarium to the Palatine

Stampa: GRAFICA PONTINA - Pomezia - ord. n. 12564 del 3-6-09 (c. 10.000) 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 4

The so-called and the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin seen from the Ponte Rotto in a 19th century illustration

The ruins of imperial on the Palatine in a 19th century engraving by B. Pinelli 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 5 The Cradle of Civilization

Presentation

he Roman academic Silvio Negro maintai- ned that in order to know Rome, a “lifetime Twas not enough”. When faced with a history that is as eventful as Rome’s, it is difficult to appraise it even into brick thick guides, still we decided to offer a series of encompassing pocketbook volumes that any curious tourist may carry with them during their visit. The “Walks in Rome” series offers routes within the city’s great web of must-see sites and monuments. Each publication has chosen a gui- ding theme allowing you to follow a path through, to mention a few, “Monumental Rome” ( and the ) or “The Dawning of Christian Rome” (The Basilicas of St. Johns in the Lateran and the Holy Cross in Jerusalem) or even enjoy the most earthly Rome “A virtual film set” ( and surroundings). So, even if a lifetime is not enough, you might as well start.

Tourism Office Rome Municipal Council

5 03-The CradleofCivilization20-03-200717:04Pagina6 6 Map .Palatine 9. Walking, walking... 8. TheCircus Maximus 7. Walking, walking... 6. SanGiorgioinVelabro 5. Walking, walking... 4. TheTemple ofHercules Invictusandthe 3. Walking, walking... 2. SantaMariainCosmedin,Boccadella 1. Key Temple ofPortunus Verità andtheHercules’s Great Altar 3 2 1 4 5 7 6 Map 7 8 9 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 7 17:04 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The CradleofCivilization20-03-200717:04Pagina8 8 3rd walk route whichledtotheEtruscan the versed bylivestockfarmers: joined thetwomainroutestra- the famousPonsSublicius,thisford the Island.Laterreplaced by located immediatelydownstreamof er hillsatthetime:thiswasford the siteofPalatineandoth- the destiniesofgroupslivingon vicinity totheriverfundamentalin one principalfactorwhichmade come theViaSalaria.Buttherewas along theroutewhichwastobe- inland, and thencetransported the mouthofTiber nearOstia meat,waspannedat and preserving cause ofitsuseinrearinglivestock a mostpreciouscommoditybe- panding tradealongtheriver. Salt, encouraged bythepossibilityofex- was Latins, SabinesandEtruscans, tive settlements,inhabitedby Rome. Thegrowthoftheseprimi- BC,givingrisetothecityof century These becameunitedinthe8th the Tiber plaininaround1000BC. Palatine andontheotherhillsin tlements ofhut-dwellersonthe ofsmallset- dence oftheformation Bridge). Thereisarcheologicalevi- PonteRotto(Aemilian century ofthe16th now markedbytheruins isthestretchofTiberimportant earliest beginnings,andevenmore T The Forum Boarium The Forum its associationswiththecity’s um isofgreatinterestdueto Boari- he areaoftheForum …the walk begins... ( as theGreekstretchofriverbank the Palatine,thusbecomingknown closeness totheImperialpalaceson Byzantine settlement,duetoits ly Medievalperiodithostedalarge and Imperialperiods,intheEar- trade throughouttheRepublican The areawasdevotedmainlyto played inensuringsafecommerce. the firstRomansmustactuallyhave on: thetaleperhaps reflectstherole from himtheoxenwonGery- evil giantCacus,whohadstolen it, thatthedemi-goddefeated was becauseithere,asmythhas place andoftradersingeneral. was regardedasaprotectorofthe ing theexploitsofHercules,who Via Petroselli,andtemplescelebrat- standsin currently Records Office) where theAnagrafe(Public located place acquiredariverport, Over thenextnewcenturies market, rightuptoImperialtimes. Boarium,orcattle to astheForum overlooking thispointwasreferred coincidence thattheriverbank tained apositionofprestige.Itisno tween thetwoareasandrapidlyat- to benefitfromtheintensetradebe- Island, thefirstRomanswereable stretch oftheriverclosetoTiber respectively. Bycontrollingthis the ViaAureliaandAppia South, latertobecomeknownas andthatleadingtotheGreek North graeca ). This 9

The Cradle of Civilization was front square in square Bocca della el of the Clement XI, the lev- 1124. In 1715, under Pope , in memory of a building of of Hercules in the 6th century AD. And in 782 Pope in the 6th century AD. Al- of the Great Hadrian I had the ruins to demolished in order tar of Hercules expand it, as a sign of solidarity to- monks taking refuge Greek wards Con- the persecution of Emperor from was added to A monastery stantine V. at the end of the first mil- the church lennium, and it became known as the Kosmidion the same name in Byzantium. During the intervention of the Normans in VII, 1078 in defence of Pope Gregory was heavily sacked and lat- the church and between 1118-19 er restored Bocca della Verità and the Great Altar and the Great ) known Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the Santa Maria Verità he church of S. Maria in of S. he church della Cosmedin, in Piazza Bocca stands on top of the site of Verità, diaconia 1. T the Great Altar of Hercules. The archa- The Altar of Hercules. the Great was one of the most ic cult of Hercules among the Romans, and deeply rooted and mytho- many religious are there in the to the god logical references Many centuries later the Byzan- area. Constan- community from tine Greek tinople was to establish its first abode of these ancient temples in the area Invictus, Aedes (Ara Maxima, Hercules Indeed, it was Aemiliana Herculis). Eastern monks who built the monastic foundation ( as S. Maria in Schola Grae- ca 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 9 17:04 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 10 walk rd

3 lowered to bring it down to that of the ite, the remains of a fresco depicting interior of the church, and three years the Annunciation and the Nativity and, later the architect Giuseppe Sardi was on the right, the funerary monument commissioned to redesign both the in- of the 12th century prelate Alphanus. terior and the exterior of the church. The architrave of the entrance, signed The elegant baroque façade, under- by Johannes de Venetia, depicts the taken at this time by Sardi, was unfor- hand of God in the act of blessing with tunately destroyed between 1894 and the thumb and ring finger united, ac- 1899 during attempts by G.B. Giove- cording to Greek custom. On the left, nale to restore the church to its pre- at the end of the is the church’s sumed appearance in Medieval times. most famous monument: the great The current façade is in brick, preceded mask known as the Bocca della Verità by a portico on piers, with latticed sin- (Mouth of Truth). This is an ancient Ro- gle-leaved windows on the upper man mask which probably served as storey. The upper part of the façade is the cover of a water drain, and the slightly set back, with a seven- presence of two dolphins, storey Romanesque belltower the profiles of which can on the left, decorated with just be made out, suggest it convex mouldings and poly- may have depicted the god chrome marble disks and con- Oceanus, or at least some taining elegant three-leaved river god. The mask was set windows with slender up in the portico in 1632, columns. The portico is pre- and with it is associated a ceded by a porch supported famous Roman tradition, a by four Ionic columns, and kind of ordeal or judgment contains various inscriptions, by God, whereby any liar two ancient weights in basan- who introduced their hand into its mouth would have it bitten off. Tourists still queue to be photographed performing the same ritual of placing their hands in its mouth. The interior of the church,

10 S. Maria in Cosmedin , The Cradle of Civilization 11 Theotokos of lions stands on three steps in the apse. The apse is decorated with modern frescoes based on the original mosaics, which have been lost. A door in the right aisle leads to the which contains sacristy, precious an extremely fragment of mosaic de- picting the Epiphany. 1639, in here Transferred this dates back to the 8th century and was origi- nally located in the early Basilica of Saint Peter’s built under Constantine. It is then worth visiting winter chapel, the choir’s which contains the two Roman columns to which the apostles Peter said to have and Paul are been chained in the Mamertine Prison: these actually belonged to the Roman shrine men- tioned above. Above the altar is an image of the Madonna Mother of God (13th century), which once occupied the main apse prior to work. the 19th-century restoration decorated The niches of the chapel are with statues depicting the Virtues by C. Maratta (1625-1713). A stairway leads down to the crypt, which Pope Hadrian I had carved out of the base of Evidence Altar of Hercules. the Great in the form of of the latter remains of blocks of Anio tufa faced in rows altar, The crypt’s ashlar masonry. mounted on small columns, contains of various martyrs, including the relics every and the head of Saint Valentine, to the 14 February this is presented with roses. faithful crowned schola Carta lapidaria (stone tablet) hanging in the portico of the church ma- , with its Paschal Can- on the first ), the work of Deodatus in ciborium troneum) floor has been restored to its original form. Ten Roman columns may be the noted running from the left aisle and across of the counter-facade to the opposite church side. In antiquity these supported a series of all and are small arches of a that now remains shrine which was an- Altar of Hercules nexed to the Great re- and may have contained his sacred mains. In the upper part of the nave some are there and triumphal arch depicting Christ fragments of frescoes the 8th to and the saints, dating from the 12th centuries AD. The nave also 12th-century contains the restored schola cantorum on a heraldic lion. The dlestick resting Cosmatesque paving inside the is original, as is the Gothic-style canopy ( which was also deprived of its 18th century ele- ments in Giovenale’s consists of restoration, by aisles divided three four piers and eighteen ancient columns of vari- ous origin. Five of the an- cient capitals were sculpted in the 12th cen- one of tury and represent the best examples of Ro- manesque architectural decoration. The ceiling and Cosmatesque floor have undergone recent the while restoration, gallery ( women’s 1294, which covers the monolithic The date 5 May 1123 altar. red-granite and the bishop’s is carved on the altar, in the shape with its arm-rests throne 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 11 17:04 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The CradleofCivilization20-03-200717:04Pagina12 12 3rd walk Christians tocelebratetheanniver- the samedaylaterchosenby fellonthewintersolstice, birthday whose wards moralperfection, resenting thepathofinitiationto- light andpurificationfromsin,rep- god ofPersianorigin,symbol worship ofthegodMithras,asun Mithraea weresanctuariesforthe rooms ofanolderbuilding. ADinsomeofthe 3rd century discovered here,installedinthe Mithraeum ofCircusMaximus,was A mithraeum,nowknownasthe courtyard. precedes along,narrow a gateontherightwhich Cosmedin wecometo E S. Mariain of the portico xiting from The MithraeumofCircus Maximus walking... Walking, 2. Mithras sacrificingabullstill. statues andtheoriginalreliefof contains thebasesofsome blood ofabullorcock.Theroom white, wasbathedinthesacrificial ceremony theneophyte,dressedin the ofthesacredmeal, der topartake seven ranksoftheirhierarchy, inor- toreflectthe which wasarranged places alongtheseatingatside, the initiatedmet,takingtheir (Cautopates), andthehallwhere genii oflight(Cautes)anddarkness which containedthestatuesof agape fraterna ities tovisittheatrium, from thelocalauthor- sary of the birth of ofthebirth sary to obtainpermission Christ. Itispossible . Intheinitiation The Cradle of Civilization 13 group of sturdy rocks decorated with aquatic plants, sculpted by Fil- ippo Bai. On the rock are two tri- tons by Francesco Moratti, of Berninian Bizzaccheri inspiration. placed a largeoblong water trough next to the fountain, with a lion’s half bust on one of its short sides. were embankments When the Tiber built, the trough was moved to the other side of the crossroads on the left, into the gardens running along the Lungotevere Aventino. The Fountain of the Tritons Mithraeum of Circus Maximus, relief of Mithras sacrificing the bull of Mithras sacrificing Maximus, relief Mithraeum of Circus The relief bears an inscription of the name of its patron: Clodius Hermes. Going back out of the gate into Piaz- we face za della Bocca della Verità, on the the Fountain of the Tritons other side of the road, a work which Bizzaccheri was designed by C.F. Moratti and executed in 1717 by F. on behalf of Clement XI, Albani. In the middle of the basin, which is in the form of an eight-pointed star, is a the emblem of the papal family, 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 13 17:04 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 14 walk rd 3 3. The Temple of Hercules Invictus and the Temple of Portunus

he circular temple in the Forum Tiber. The image was closed in a cas- Boarium, known incorrectly as ket, but after a few days a light as Tthe Temple of Vesta, is the most bright as the sun was seen to be break- ancient in marble to survive in Rome. ing out from within. The whole of Sources suggest, that it must actually Rome came to know of this prodigy have been the Temple of Hercules In- and the image, which acquired the victus (the invincible Hercules). Its name of the Virgin of the Sun, was car- structure, which is similar to that of the ried into the Savelli church, which Temple of the Goddess Vesta in the Ro- thence became known as S. Maria del man Forum, resulted in it being consid- Sole (Saint Mary of the Sun). All that ered a shrine of the goddess of hearth now remains inside the ancient church and home. In the 12th century the is a 15th century fresco depicting a temple was converted into a church by Madonna and Child and some saints. the Savelli family, acquiring the name The present remains indicate a of S. Stefano delle Carrozze after the peripteral temple on 20 fluted street nearby which led to S. Galla, columns bearing Corinthian capitals which was called Via delle Carrozze al dating back to the age of Tiberius. On- Fiume. In 1560, there was a remark- ly 19 of the columns remain, as one able event: an image of the Virgin was removed in the Middle Ages be- painted on papyrus was fore the building became a Christian found in the church. There is waters evi- of the

14 The Temple of Hercules Invictus 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 15 The Cradle of Civilization

dence of an attempt to demolish the temple, a fate which befell the majori- ty of ancient buildings, in the presence on the columns of grooves into which ropes were fitted in order to drag them down. The reconstruction of the roof, which is low and tiled, does not reflect the height of the original covering, now missing, which is thought to have been conical. Archeological assays have shown that the foundations of the temple and its may date back to the end of the 2nd century BC, when the neo-Attic style was becom- Temple of Hercules Invictus, detail of ing fashionable in Rome due to the columns presence of Hermodoros of Salamis, to whom some scholars attribute the de- that the patron of the temple was in- sign of this building. The cella was deed Marcus Octavius Herrenus, one found to contain the base of a statue of the most important oil producers at of Hercules Olivarius by Skopas the the time, as cited in sources. The Younger. This votive offering from the evocative underground part of the sa- oil merchants of and the cred building may be reached via an fact of being in a centre of opening in the floor of the cylindrical intense trade like the cella. Forum Boarium To the right of the Tem- provides con- ple of Hercules Invic- firmation tus, along Via Pet- roselli, is another ancient sacred building, per- haps the most intact in Rome

15 The Temple of Portunus 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 16 walk rd

3 along with the Pantheon. ian pilgrims was added to the church, This is the Temple of Portunus, and not and the building belonged to this na- the Temple of Fortuna Virilis as it was tion until 1921. previously and mistakenly known. In- The hospice was demolished in 1930 deed, this building, like the previous to make way for the new Via del Mare one, was victim of another long-stand- (now Via del Teatro Marcello and Via ing case of mistaken identity. In depth Petroselli) and the ancient temple was studies now allow us to confirm that restored. According to Roman custom, the temple was sacred to the god Por- the temple stood on a high podium tunus, patron of the Tiber river port clad in slabs of travertine. It is pseudo- and of sailors. The building was trans- peripteral and tetrastyle, ie it features formed into a church in 872 and dedi- four free-standing columns across the cated to S. Maria Egiziaca, the Ana- front and four semi-columns engaged choretian saint of Egypt, a former in the walls of each of the other three courtesan who crossed the Jordan sides. The marble columns support while it miraculously parted its waters Ionic capitals, while the semi-columns before her. The relationship between are, like the rest of the building, in the saint and the river – in this case, the Anio tufa, covered in mock-marble Tiber – is evident in the name of the plaster-work. The frieze features can- church, which was placed under the dlesticks joined by garlands, and the jurisdiction of Stefano Stefaneschi in cornice featured drip-mouldings with the 9th century. Pope Pius V Ghislieri lions’ heads. The façade culminates in (1566-72) granted it to the Armenians, an elegant gabled pediment. Near the who had had to abandon their church back left corner of the temple is a frag- because it fell within the boundaries of ment of wall, which is all that remains the ghetto established in 1555 by Paul of the sacred precinct. The building still IV Carafa. Under hosts a canvas by F. Zuccari depicting Pope Clement S. Maria Egiziaca, remains of XI a hospice medieval frescoes and the for Ar- wooden model of the men- Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

16 Temple of Portunus, from behind 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 17 The Cradle of Civilization

4. ith our played this role in backs to Walking, the sacred represen- Wthe façade walking... tations which took of the Temple of Por- place during Holy tunus, looking across the Week. road, we come to a building which As recorded in the Latin inscrip- is architecturally unusual because tion on the curved Roman cornice its structures have been embellished used as an architrave of the doorway by a large quantity of pieces of an- of the building itself, the house ac- cient marble. The building, the tually belonged to the Crescenzi House of the Crescenzi, was be- family. The tower built to fortify the lieved to have been the house of Co- house was demolished in 1312, and la di Rienzo, but it is also known as in the 16th century the house was the House of Pilate, because it used as a stable.

House of the Crescenzi 17 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 18 walk rd 3 Palazzo dell’Anagrafe (Public Record Office)

Restoration work in 1868 restored (Public Records Office), designed it to its original form and it is now a by C. Valle (1936-37). We cross at the conference hall. On either side of traffic lights and take the Vico Ju- the main inscription there are also gario on the right. On our right are groups of isolated letters which are visible the excavations of the S. still of uncertain interpretation. To Omobono Sacred Precinct. In 1937, the right of the doorway is a win- during the construction of public dow crowned with an arched Ro- offices in the area to the right of the man lintel. church of S. Omobono, there We continue along Via Petroselli, emerged archeological evidence of past the long Palazzo dell’Anagrafe such importance that the site was

18 S. Omobono Sacred Precinct 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 19 The Cradle of Civilization

placed under protection and left available for further scientific inves- tigation. When excavations were resumed af- ter the war in 1959, four successive digs led to a series of findings which made it possible to provide a virtual- ly complete history of the site. The area had initially hosted an ancient votive pit dating back to somewhere between the 16th and 12th cen- turies BC and containing material belonging to the Apennine culture and fragments of Greek pottery from the 8th to the 6th centuries BC. There is evidence that the site was used for worship prior to the S. Omobono construction of the actual temple: back to the time of Servius Tullius this includes a hut dating back to (578-534 BC). Destroyed at the end the 7th century BC and a pit for sac- of the 6th century BC, this was re- rifices with an inscription in Archaic built at the beginning of the 5th Latin, dating back to the early 6th century, along with its twin, the century BC. The most ancient nu- Temple of Fortuna, on a single base. cleus of the Temple of Mater Matu- Mater Matuta received the sacrifices ta, the goddess of dawn and of of pregnant or newborn animals, or births, on the other hand, dates of women’s possessions. The re-

S. Maria della Consolazione

19 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 20 walk rd 3 mains of the twin temples of Fortu- have been partly identified as the re- na and Mater Matuta point to the mains of the four-fronted triumphal presence of foreign clans in this arch of Stertinius, erected in 196 area of the trading port. Indeed, BC, the first triumphal arch to be twin temples have been recorded in built in Rome. In front of the two other cities along the Tyrrhenian temples is the circular votive altar coast influenced by Punic settle- decorated with an egg-and-dart mo- ment, such as Pyrgi, and we may tif and the remains of another rec- draw a parallel between the couple- tangular one. The early Christian worship of the Phoenician Hercules church, which rose in the 6th centu- Melqart and the goddess Astarte ry on the site of the two temples un- and the simultaneous presence in der the name of S. Salvatore in Porti- the Tiber port area of the temples of co, was finally consecrated to SS Hercules and Mater Matuta. All of Omobono and Antonio in 1575. At this confirms the presence in the the bottom of Vico Jugario stands port of Punic traders suggested by the church of S. Maria della Conso- the finding of Phoenician and lazione, with its late 16th century Egyptian objects in the same S. façade, the work of Martino Longhi Omobono area, which must have the Elder. This contains works by T. been a veritable international em- Zuccari, L. Agresti, G. Baglione, Po- porium in the heart of Archaic marancio and Raffaello di Mon- Rome. Indeed, it was here that telupo, among others, and also the Euboaeic alphabet was fragments of frescoes by Anto- first introduced, as testified niazzo Romano. The history of by some of the inscriptions this church is closely linked to found. Inside the archeologi- that of the hospital behind. cal area the remains of two Right behind the area of S. temples are clearly visible; Omobono stood the six piers run down church of S. Maria the space be- in Cannapara, tween the also known two build- as S. ings, Maria and delle they

20 Ospedale della Consolazione, lunette over the doorway 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 21 The Cradle of Civilization

Grazie, where the confraternity of tury it acquired a pharmacy the guild of rope-makers (canapai) (spezieria) and a health school with held their own liturgical cere- an anatomic theatre for the dissec- monies. tion of cadavers. The hospital was A hospital was soon built next to the often used as a hospice for the ter- church: there are already traces of it minally ill, and the adjacent ceme- in the 15th century. The church was tery had to be sanitized in 1848 due demolished in 1876 and its objects to the foul smell which emanated transferred to a chapel of S. Maria from it. Although the hospital was della Consolazione. Meanwhile, in famous in the city for its school of the 16th century, the hospitals of S. surgery, it was closed in 1936. Its pa- Maria in Portico, S. Maria delle Gra- tients had received voluntary care zie and S. Maria della Consolazione from S. Ignazio di Loyola, S. were merged into the Arch-Hospital Giuseppe Calasanzio, S. Vincenzo of S. Maria de Vita Aeterna, which Pallotti and S. Camillo de Lellis. S. later became known as Ospedale Luigi Gonzaga died there in 1591 della Consolazione. So it was that aged 23, having caught the plague those years saw the merging of the while looking after patients. The three churches and the three hospi- part of the hospital which faces onto tals with their respective confrater- Via della Consolazione constitutes nities into a single arch-confraterni- its oldest ward, and still features a ty and a single arch-hospital. 15th century door with a lunette The hospital, which now serves as a containing a relief depicting a fire station, had fifty beds for men Madonna and Child with Seraphs. and ten for women. In the 17th cen- There are two inscriptions in the

S. Teodoro 21 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 22 walk rd 3 Detail of the facade of S. Eligio dei Ferrari

wall along the side of the hospital: gan temple, he was tortured to one commemorates the death of death under the principate of Max- Luigi Gonzaga and the other pro- imian. The church is circular in hibits the passage of night traffic by plan and is preceded by a brick order of Alexander VIII, so as not to porch. In front is a wide open court- disturb the patients’ sleep. yard reached from Via di S. Teodoro We skirt round the hospital until we down a double flight of steps. The come to a marvelous view of the Ro- building is topped by a dome, de- man Forum from the side, where it signed in the 15th century by is possible to enter by way of a gate a Bernardo Rossellino, and repre- little further on. Further on to the sents the first example in Rome of a left, at the foot of the Palatine, is the dome with ribs and sail-vaults. At the ancient church of S. Teodoro. Ac- level beneath that of the current cording to tradition, this stands on building are the remains of the old- the site of the , the cave er church, with its apse decorated by where the she-wolf is supposed to a 6th century mosaic depicting have suckled the twins Romulus and Christ with Saints Peter, Paul, Remus. The church dates back to at Theodore and Cleonicus. Until a least the 6th century and, like other short while ago, meetings were held buildings in the area, which was in this church by the Arch-Confra- strongly influenced by the Byzan- ternity of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, tine presence, was consecrated to known as the Whitesacks, whose Saint Theodore, a native of Galatia. members included popes, cardinals Saint Theodore was a famous mar- and aristocrats. The headquarters tyr-soldier of the East, with a sanctu- of the Arch-Confraternity is now at ary in Pontus, but he was also wor- S. Tommaso in Parione. The church shipped in Rome, as well as in is now officiated by Greek monks of Venice, Ferrara and the Monferrato the Orthodox faith. 22 area. Accused of burning down a pa- On the other side of Via di S. 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 23 The Cradle of Civilization

Teodoro we take Via dei Fienili. titular saint. The broad window was Back in Piazza della Consolazione originally circular: now it is sur- and enter Via di S. Giovanni Decol- mounted by an elegant tympanum. lato on our left. The interior consists of a single aisle Soon we come to the church of S. with decorations in plasterwork and Eligio dei Ferrari, on our left. Hav- marble. The emblem of the smiths’ ing changed names various times guild stands out in the coffered ceil- over the centuries, the church was fi- ing, and over the 1640 altar is a can- nally entrusted to the smiths’ guild vas depicting the Madonna and ba- by Pope Nicholas V in 1453, a corpo- by Jesus crowned by angels, with ration which included knife- Saints Martin, James and Eligius, a grinders, locksmiths, cauldronmak- 16th century work by Girolamo Sici- ers, blacksmiths and swordsmiths. olante. The hall of reliquiaries con- The guild dedicated the place to its tains one donated by the Cathedral patron saint, Saint Eligius of Noyon, of Noyon, containing the remains of who lived in the 6th century and was Saint Eligius’s arm. A little further an artisan. Actually, the church is on to the right is the church of S. dedicated to at least three saints: Giovanni Decollato (St. John the James, Martin and Eligius. The Beheaded), built by the Arciconfra- place of worship was built over the ternità della Misericordia di S. Giovan- remains of a previous building de- ni Decollato towards the end of the voted to Saint James, and at the 15th century. In 1490 Pope Inno- same time another nearby church, cence VIII gave permission for this that of Saint Martin, was deconse- Florentine arch-confraternity, to crated and converted into a granary. which Michelangelo also belonged, The church of S. Eligio has a brick to carry out its good works in Rome façade featuring double pilasters on as well. This consisted of giving sup- travertine bases at regular intervals. port to those condemned to be be- Above the doorway is the bust of the headed and burying their bodies.

S. Giovanni Decollato 23 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 24 walk rd 3 Every 29 August, the date associated was built between 1535 and 1555 with the finding in Syria of the head and reworked under Pope Clement of John the Baptist, the arch-confra- VIII. Today, three porticoed sides ternity was allowed to free someone remain, containing tombstones, the on the death list, who would then covers of the tombs of those execut- head a procession of thanksgiving, ed, two 14th century column-bear- flanked by the festive crowds. The ing lions and two wooden altars confraternity still exists: now it pro- from the 16th century containing vides assistance to the families of statues of Saint Sebastian. It is worth those serving prison sentences, and recording the fact that the first exhi- the church is officiated by Francis- bitions in Rome of works of art, can tertiaries. The other tympanum which were organized by this arch- on the façade, in brick, stands upon confraternity and were open to the four Doric pilasters, which separate public, took place in this very clois- the 16th century doorway with a ter, and it was on one of these occa- semicircular window over it and two sions that the artistic talent of Salva- simple niches. The church is built tor Rosa became known. The porti- on a higher level than the present co leads to the famous camera storica, street, and it is entered up two a room - actually a small museum - flights of steps. Inside there is a sin- documenting the history of papal gle nave, divided at equal intervals justice. This contains: the basket by Doric pilasters decorated with which collected the head of Beatrice grotesques and niches. The cloister Cenci; the hood of Giordano

The Arch of

24 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 25 The Cradle of Civilization

Bruno; the tablets bearing the sa- keystones of the archways contain cred images which the condemned the figures of Rome and Juno seated were given to kiss prior to their exe- and and Ceres standing. In cution; the red cowl worn by those the Middle Ages the arch was used who were to be executed; the as one of the bastions of the exten- lanterns which lit their last night; sive Frangipane fortification, and the paper, pens and ink-wells which was renamed the Tower of Boetius. were used to write up their wills. It was re-separated in the 14th cen- At the end of Via di S. Giovanni tury, but in 1827 the original brick- Decollato we take Via del Velabro on work on the attic, which had been our left and follow it to the Arch of clad in marble in antiquity, was de- Janus. As recorded in the fragmen- molished by mistake, along with the tary inscription kept in the portico medieval structures on top. Next to of the nearby church of S. Giorgio the arch is a house from which it is in Velabro, this monumental four- possible, by request, to visit the Cloa- fronted arch, traditionally known as ca Maxima, Rome’s most ancient the , was put up by drain. This was built in the 6th cen- Constantine at a point where the an- tury BC, by Tarquinius Priscus, ac- cient Triumphal Way passed close to cording to tradition, during Rome’s the Sacred Way, in order to cele- “Etruscan” phase. Its roof is vaulted brate his great victory at the Milvian in blocks of tufa, and it started at the Bridge. The work was undertaken in church of SS. Quirico e Giulitta, car- travertine and Luna marble and ried on into the area of the forums rests on four robust piers which sup- of and Nerva, passed un- port the cross-vault. Hollow am- der the at the level of phorae (earthenware vessels) were the Basilica Aemilia, descended into used to lighten the load in the mid- the Forum Boarium, ran past the dle, a standard late-Imperial build- Temple of Hercules Invictus and ing technique. The piers were deco- came out near the Aemilian Bridge - rated on the outside by a series of known as the Ponte Rotto, or Bro- shell-shaped niches, originally ken Bridge - where its exit can still flanked by slender columns. The be seen. , exit on the Tiber

25 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 26 walk rd 3 5. San Giorgio in Velabro

Continuing past the Arch of Popes Pius VII and Gregory XVI initiated Janus, we come to the church of the first research into the origins of the OS. Giorgio in Velabro. Men- church, and it was restored to its most tioned in Leo II’s Liber Pontifi- ancient form by Antonio Munoz in calis(682683), this was originally conse- 1926. This involved lowering the floor, crated to Saint Sebastian. Pope re-opening the walled-in windows and Zacharias (741-752), who was of Greek demolishing the Baroque façade. The origin, dedicated it to , current façade, with its severe simplici- who was much venerated in Constan- ty, therefore dates back to this restora- tinople and in the Greek East, and to tion. The portico stands between two whom the Byzantine soldiers present in brick piers, the upper parts of which are the Greek community in this area were decorated with lozenge friezes. It is fur- much devoted. Pope Gregory IV (827- ther divided by four ancient columns 844) was re- with Ionic capitals, and it is closed off sponsible for behind railings. the portico, This portico was completely rebuilt af- and rebuilt ter it was totally destroyed by a bomb in the apse and 1994. The upper part of the façade, sacristy. In the which is crowned with a pediment, fea- 19th century, tures a central roundel. On the left stands the Romanesque bell-tower, which starts in one of the church’s side aisles and dates back to the 12th cen-

26 S. Giorgio in Velabro The Cradle of Civilization 27 Arch of the Argentarii, scene of ritual sacrifice by the emperor Septimius Severus of the Argentarii, scene of ritual sacrifice by the emperor Arch and the Julia Domna, his wife empress Fresco in apse featuring Christ, the Madonna and Saints George, in apse featuring Christ, the Madonna and Peter and Sebastian Fresco 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 27 17:05 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 28 walk rd 3

Arch of the Argentarii

tury. The main doorway consists of Next to the church on the left is the so- splendid cornices dating back to the called Arch of the Argentarii, which Roman Age, and the beautiful marble was one of the entrances to the Forum threshold is also ancient. The interior Boarium. The arch consists of two features three aisles and is irregular in concrete piers covered in marble and plan because it rests on pre-existing Ro- travertine which support a marble ar- man structures. The aisles are divided chitrave. Its building was sponsored by by eight granite and Phrygian purple the Ancient Roman bankers (argen- columns of Roman origin, with Ionic tarii) and by the local cattle traders, and Corinthian capitals dating back to who dedicated it to the emperor Sep- the Medieval period. The altar consists timius Severus, his wife Julia Domna of an 11th century marble slab. The and their children Caracalla and Geta. presbytery is raised, as was usual in Ro- Indeed, the inscription commemo- manesque architecture. Beneath the al- rates the patrons and the emperor, his tar, in the confessio, is the head of Saint wife and the young Caracalla. The George, his sword and a piece of his name of Geta was obliterated when standard. The basin of the apse con- his brother Caracalla had him killed tains a late 18th century fresco depict- and all trace of his memory was can- ing Christ, the Madonna and Saints celled from all the monuments in the 28 George, Peter and Sebastian, which is Empire, according to the custom of attributed to Pietro Cavallini. damnatio memoriae. The Cradle of Civilization 29 emblem of Urban VIII Barberini, deco- the pediment is the rated with garlands. The door is nicely aligned with the upper window, and two with the upper window, Tomb of Cardinal Angelo Maj Tomb bell-towers with elegant bases rise up bell-towers with elegant façade. The from either side of the still contains its en- which interior, donarthex, is divided into three 6. S. Anastasia Walking, walking... Leaving the church be- hind us, we L turn left into Via di S. and right into Pi- Teodoro ourselves azza S. Anastasia to find of S. Anasta- in front of the church in sia. This saint was venerated Rome from the 5th century on- wards. Martyred in Sirmium and her remains were brought to Constan- tinople. S. Anastasia is the patron saint of weavers, and her symbol is the pyre upon which she was burnt. The church, the site of which was al- ready consecrated to Anastasia, was built as an official place of worship for Byzantine dignitaries residing in the Imperial palaces on the Palatine. Restructured and restored on many occasions, it now features a two- storey brick façade built in 1636 un- der Urban VIII, with regularly spaced pilasters with travertine cor- nices and capitals. On top of the pediment, on either side of the cross, are two groups of flaming can- dlesticks in marble. In the centre of 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 29 17:05 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 30 walk rd 3

Statue of Saint Anastasia beneath the main altar

aisles by piers which reinforce the In the subterranean parts of the columns of the older church. These church is a stretch of paved road and columns, in Carystian green marble, interesting remains of ancient build- Phrygian purple and granite were, ings. These may be attributed in part as was often the case, recycled from to the nearby Circus Maximus and ancient pagan monuments. The in part to a large building with sever- statue of Saint Anastasia over the al- al rooms and a portico, with features tar is to be admired: it was sculpted which can be dated to the period of in 1667 by Ercole Ferrata, of the Theodoric: this forms part of the Berninian school. Set in the altar in Palatine complex. the left transept is the tomb of Cardi- Exiting from S. Anastasia we take Via nal Angelo Maj, the Vatican Library dei Cerchi on the left and come to prefect who discovered Cicero’s De the long grassy hollow where the Cir- Republica. cus Maximus once rose in antiquity.

7. The Circus Maximus

he biggest monument for public agricultural cycles of the ancient farm- spectacles of all time, this was ing populations of Latium. According Tbuilt in the ancient Murcia Valley to tradition, the Circus Maximus was where, according to legend, the first built by the Etruscan kings, as part of Romans raped the womenfolk of the the extensive building project of what Sabines, their guests, while equestrian has been defined as “the Great Rome games were underway in honour of of the Tarquins”. The first circus was 30 the god Consus. These games were probably built in wood. It was subse- part of the great festivities linked to the quently rebuilt and embellished on The Cradle of Civilization 31 , ie the each oth- carceres would be perfectly aligned with chariots’ starting gates, were opened chariots’ starting gates, were the straight end. On either side of from two tall towers. These these were starting posts pointed in an oblique di- so that the racing chariots rection short ends, of which one was curved and one straight. The View Maximus with the in the background of the Circus many occasions, in both Republican spon- and Imperial times, with projects by Augustus, Caligula, Claudius, sored Domitian, Antoninus Pius, Cara- Nero, Diocletian, Constantine calla, Aurelian, and last of all, Constantius. The circus consisted of two long sides and two Circus Maximus, radial walls of the East partCircus of the hemicycle 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 31 17:05 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 32 walk rd

3 er at the start of the first long lap. gods, including one of the goddess The chariots exited from the carceres Cybele. There were also seven bronze and raced off at the departure signal, eggs and dolphins in bronze fitted on- which was provided by a magistrate to horizontal bars. After every circuit who would drop a white handkerchief completed by the chariots, one egg onto the track. A dividing line known and one dolphin were counted off to as the spina ran lengthwise down the indicate to the public the number of centre of the track. Augustus had the circuits left to the end of each race. Egyptian obelisk of Ramses II set up in On the Palatine side, the circus was the middle of the spina, and this was topped by a monumental podium, moved to by Pope the pulvinar, upon which were set the Sixtus V in the 16th century. Constan- images of the gods previously exhibit- tius, the son of Constantine, added ed during the inaugural parade. In- another Egyptian obelisk, that of deed, the spectacle was dedicated to Thutmosis IV, in the 4th century, and these gods. The deified emperor and this was also removed by Sixtus V, this his retinue also took their places upon one to Piazza di S. Giovanni in Latera- the same podium. The races were al- no. The chariots were divided into four most always offered to the people by teams marked by different colours, the monarch and by public officials or and were required to complete seven patricians with political ambitions circuits of the track around the spina, who would thereby obtain the elec- which was marked at either end by torate’s favour. There were a large two cyclindrical elements tapering off number of passionate followers of at the top, known as metae. this event in the city, and they divided The spina was also up into fan-clubs sporting the colours littered with of the favourite team. The circus, small temples, which had a capacity of up to shrines, 350,000, was the buildings and statues of

32 Radial walls of the cavea 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 33 The Cradle of Civilization

scene of a number of accidents ed into cultivated land. In 1852 it be- throughout its history, such as the col- came the site of Rome’s first gas- lapse of some of the stands, which re- works, demolished in 1943. Excava- sulted in a large number of deaths on tions conducted in the 1930s and several occasions. And this was the 1980s have uncovered evidence of starting point of the most violent of the radial walls which supported the the fires with which Rome was afflict- rows of steps on the curved side to- ed in 64 AD under Nero’s principate. wards the headquarters of the UN’s Abandoned in the centuries following FAO. The foundations of the tri- the end of the Empire, it was trans- umphal arch put up by Vespasian and formed – like other monuments – into Tito to celebrate the conquest of Ju- a quarry for building materials. It was daea have also been uncovered: this surrounded by Medieval structures, served as a monumental entrance to churches and convents, and convert- this side of the circus.

8. he little Torre Torre della Moletta. dei Frangi- Walking, Here lived Iacopa dei Tpane still walking... Normanni, alias dei stands at the end of the Settesoli (perhaps due valley. It was built near the to the nearby ruins of the Medieval Fosso dell’Acqua Mariana, Septizonium), the first Roman fol- the earliest channeling of which has lower of Saint Frances of Assisi. The been discovered. Indeed, it was in or- saint stayed with Iacopa – to whom der to exploit the current of this he referred as “sister Iacopa” - in the channel that the tower tower during his last visit to Rome. was converted into a wa- termill and renamed

The little Torre dei Frangipane renamed Torre della Moletta 33 03-The CradleofCivilization20-03-200717:05Pagina34 34 3rd walk purposes of this walk, it will suffice to purposes ofthiswalk,itwillsuffice of Titus, andbuyaticket.Forthe fromtheArch the rampwhichstarts on ViadiS.Gregorio,ortoascend enter viathemonumentalentrance to gardens,itisnecessary Farnese ins alsoincludetheremainsof the manycomplexarcheologicalru- tailed explorationofthehill,where Imperial palaces.Foramorede- Hill, withitsspectacularremainsof T S. Gregorio di Entrance tothePalatineonVia south sideofthePalatine the CircusMaximusrises o theleftofremains The Palatine …continuing the walk... a preciousrelic.TheemperorAu- andcontinuallyrestored itas served ancient houseofRomulus,andpre- ofthehillas south-west corner The Romansidentifiedahutinthe mains ofanarchaiccirclewalls. which hasbeenidentifiedasthere- dating backtothe8thcentury, identified asectionofembankment Varro. Recentexcavations have the cityontohill,asrecordedby ing therectangularboundariesof founded Romein753BC,scratch- suckled byashe-wolf.Romulus shepherd Faustuluswhilebeing supposed tohavebeenfoundbythe where RomulusandRemuswere wastheLupercal cave the Germalus, of Palatine, inthesouth-westcorner Rome’s birthday. Atthefootof April, whichwasalsocelebratedas whose feastday, thePalilia,wason21 goddess Pales,protectressofflocks, its namefromtheancientcultof to theEsquilineHill.Thehilltook minated intheplateauofVelia, linked byanotherridge,whichcul- and theTiber bank,anditwas Boarium sloped downtotheForum its ridges,knownastheGermalus, appearance.Oneof different very above sea-level.Inantiquity, ithada tine Hillrisestoabout50metres ofthesite.ThePala- eral overview at thefootofhill,toobtainagen- Capena, direction ofPiazzadiPorta continue alongViadeiCerchiinthe The Cradle of Civilization 35 , ie a school construction traces of a small the slope, are dra, half way up Beneath the exe- Circus Maximus. paedagogium which looked over the remains of a large exedra rives from the hill’s Latin rives from the hill’s term de- “”, which this is the origin of the verythis is the origin of the name, Palatium. In the ble Imperial buildings, and ble Imperial buildings, middle of the slope facing across to the Aventine are the across to the Aventine cessive phases of splendid mar- cessive phases of splendid Palatine became the site of suc- Palatine became the site Septimius Severus. Thus the Tiberius, Nero, the Flavians and Tiberius, for the instruction of the slaves em- ployed in the imperial residence. One famous example of the large quantity of graffiti found inside fea- accompa- tures a crucified donkey, nied by the inscription “Alexamenos worships his God”. Lower down, to- wards the Circus Maximus, is anoth- er building with a courtyard and ar- cades with square columns, where the splendid mosaics and pictures which in antiquity was joined to the great palace. This has been identi- fied as the tal constructions by commissioned men- monu- Statue of the Great Mother Statue of the Great creasingly lowed by the in- which was fol- residence there, tablished his own The Palatine Antiquarium gustus chose his own to perhaps dwelling nearby, as emphasize his own role second founder of Rome. In 1948, archeologists found the remains of three iron-age huts in this area, of which it is possible to distinguish the floors, surrounded by a channel to drain away the holes for and rainwater, the support exca- poles. The vation has yielded material from the 8th centu- ry BC, and also a 10th century tomb. In the Republican Age, the Palatine became the quar- and ter of the Roman aristocracy, upon it rose temples to the Great to Cybele and to Apollo. Mother, This all changed when Augustus es- 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 35 17:05 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The CradleofCivilization20-03-200717:05Pagina36 36 3rd walk Oval fountainintheDomusFlavia Peristyle withoctagonalfountainintheDomusFlavia The Cradle of Civilization 37 , domus where um, ie the Council Chamber Next to the hall was the Auditori- coloured marble housed in niches. extends a vast quadriporticus with a large deco- fountain in the middle called pelts, rated with shield shapes off various interior which are the palace. In the rooms of the imperial north-western part of the another vast around the remains of peristyle which surrounds an octag- onal fountain decorated with labyrinthine meanders, are the rooms of the official reception wing, which was known as the Domus Flavia. Behind this peristyle, in the direction of the Roman Forum, was a vast hall, more than 30 metres wide, with a throne in the centre of an apse, where the emperor held his public audiences. The room was decorated with gigantic statues in Fountain with figures of Amazons’ shields in the Fountain with figures now kept in the Palatine Antiquari- now kept in the Palatine um were found. known as the The building became the House of Domus Praeconum, ie of the mo- the Heralds, because one a proces- saics found there depicts found in- sion of heralds. A recently scription confirms this was in- that deed the headquarters of the Cir- who College of Messengers, cus’s were used in the processions that were held at the inauguration of the races. Also on Via dei Cerchi is a building of unmistakably Baroque appearance which may be regarded as one of the service of the buildings Farnese Gardens. Immediately after the area of the exedra, though not visible from this vantage point, there 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:05 Pagina 37 17:05 Pagina 20-03-2007 of Civilization 03-The Cradle 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:06 Pagina 38 walk rd 3 state affairs were decided, and a tures a vast circus-shaped construc- large room where the Praetorian tion with a two-storey portico along Guard was probably stationed. Re- its sides. The track originally con- tracing our steps back across the tained a little spina, just like the ones courtyard with the octagonal foun- in the larger circuses, and until the tain and returning in the direction period of Domitian this must have of the Circus Maximus, we come to been a garden and stables, a typical another grand hall which retains feature of the great patrician villas. some of its original paving in marble. All that can be seen from our vantage This was a hypocaust, ie a system of point in Via dei Cerchi is a series of double flooring through which hot substantial brick foundations which air was circulated in order to heat the allowed Septimius Severus to create room above. The room is now an artificial terrace upon which to thought to be the so called Coenatio built a series of extensions to the Do- Iovis, where imperial parties were mus Augustana. At the foot of these held. Here began the private sector supporting structures, on the side of of the imperial residence, which was Via di S. Gregorio al Celio, recent ex- called the Domus Augustana. This cavations have identified the founda- wing also developed around a vast tions of the famous Septizonium, a peristyle, built on the same axis as monumental nymphaeum measuring the Fontana delle Pelte. This fea- over 70 metres tall, the remains of tured a large exedra with a fountain which were finally demolished un- and a wide pool. In the middle of the der the papacy of Sixtus V. A little fur- pool was an artificial island, upon ther on, on the same road, the arches which stood a little temple which of a branch of the Claudian Aque- could be reached by crossing a small duct may be seen, which fed baths bridge. To the East, towards Via di somewhere in the palace, about San Gregorio, this complex also fea- which little is so far known.

38 Supporting structures built in the reign of Septimius Severus 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:06 Pagina 39

How to get there…

Piazza della Bocca della Verità: 23 - 30 - 44 - 81 - 95 -122 - 130 - 160 - 170 - 271 - 280 - 628 - 715 - 716 - 781

Piazza di Porta Capena: 3 - 60 - 75 - 81 - 118 - 122 - 160 - 175 - 271 - 628 - 673 - Metro B

Tour Lines: 110 - Archeobus

Legend: Numbers in bold show the terminus (e.g. 70) the underlined indicate the tram (e.g. 3) those in green are on Mondays - Saturdays (e.g. 30) those in red are only on holidays (e.g. 130) 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:06 Pagina 40

Comune di Roma Turismo 3 Tourist Information Points

mon-sun 9.30am-7.00pm • Castel Sant’Angelo Piazza Pia • Via dell’Olmata • Piazza Sonnino Trastevere • Via Nazionale near Palazzo Esposizioni • Piazza Cinque Lune - Navona • Via Minghetti - Fontana di Trevi • Visitor Centre Via dei Fori Imperiali mon-sun 9.30am-6.00pm

• Fiumicino Leonardo da Vinci Airport - International Arrivals - Terminal C mon-sun 9.00am-6.30pm • Termini Station Via Giolitti 34 - Inside of building F/track 24 mon-sun 8.00am-8.30pm • Ciampino “G.B. Pastine” Airport of Rome mon-sun 9.00am-6.30pm • Lungomare P. Toscanelli - corner Piazza A. Marzio (Ostia Lido) mon-sun 9.30am-7.00pm

Tourism Office Via Leopardi, 24 - 00185 Roma

Tourist Call Centre +39 06 06 08 (daily 9.00 a.m. - 7.30 p.m.)

Municipality pbx +39 06 06 06 www.comune.roma.it www.turismoroma.it [email protected]