03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:03 Pagina 1 Walks in Rome Comune di Roma Tourism The Cradle of Civilization From the Forum Boarium to the Palatine 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:03 Pagina 2 Co Rome for you Information series on the City of Rome Produced by: Cosmofilm spa - Elio de Rosa, editore Texts: Alberto Tagliaferri, Valerio Variale (Cultural Association Mirabilia Urbis) Editorial coordination: Emanuela Bosi Graphics and page setting: Marco C. Mastrolorenzi Translation edit by: Stephen Geoffrey Wheeler Photos: D. Bianca: cover, p. 3, 15, 24, 25, 27 bottom, 31,32, 33; C. De Santis: p. 2, 10, 11, 18 top, 19 bottom, 23, 26, 28, 29, 30, 34, 38; P. Soriani: p. 14, 16; Visual space: p. 12, 13 bottom, 35, 36, 37; SSPMR: 27 top; Cosmofilm Archive: p. 9, 13 top, 17, 18 bottom, 19 top, 20, 21, 22 On the cover, the Temple of Portunus On this page, the Arch of the Argentarii, panel in relief 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:03 Pagina 3 Walks in Rome Comune di Roma Tourism • The Forum Boarium 8 1. Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the Bocca della Verità and Hercules’s Great Altar 9 2. Walking, walking... 12 3. The Temple of Hercules Invictus and the Temple of Portunus 14 4. Walking, walking... 17 5. San Giorgio in Velabro 26 6. Walking, walking... 29 7. The Circus Maximus 30 8. Walking, walking... 33 • The Palatine 34 Temple of Hercules Invictus, detail of a capital The Cradle of Civilization From the Forum Boarium to the Palatine Stampa: GRAFICA PONTINA - Pomezia - ord. n. 12564 del 3-6-09 (c. 10.000) 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 4 The so-called Temple of Vesta and the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin seen from the Ponte Rotto in a 19th century illustration The ruins of imperial palaces on the Palatine in a 19th century engraving by B. Pinelli 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 5 The Cradle of Civilization Presentation he Roman academic Silvio Negro maintai- ned that in order to know Rome, a “lifetime Twas not enough”. When faced with a history that is as eventful as Rome’s, it is difficult to appraise it even into brick thick guides, still we decided to offer a series of encompassing pocketbook volumes that any curious tourist may carry with them during their visit. The “Walks in Rome” series offers routes within the city’s great web of must-see sites and monuments. Each publication has chosen a gui- ding theme allowing you to follow a path through, to mention a few, “Monumental Rome” (via dei Fori Imperiali and the Colosseum) or “The Dawning of Christian Rome” (The Basilicas of St. Johns in the Lateran and the Holy Cross in Jerusalem) or even enjoy the most earthly Rome “A virtual film set” (via Veneto and surroundings). So, even if a lifetime is not enough, you might as well start. Tourism Office Rome Municipal Council 5 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 6 Map 5 3 4 6 1 2 7 Key 1. Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Bocca della Verità and the Hercules’s Great Altar 2. Walking, walking... 3. The Temple of Hercules Invictus and the Temple of Portunus 4. Walking, walking... 5. San Giorgio in Velabro 6. Walking, walking... 7. The Circus Maximus 8. Walking, walking... 6 9. Palatine 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 7 Map 9 8 7 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 8 walk rd 3 …the walk begins... The Forum Boarium he area of the Forum Boari- North and that leading to the Greek um is of great interest due to South, later to become known as Tits associations with the city’s the Via Aurelia and the Via Appia earliest beginnings, and even more respectively. By controlling this important is the stretch of the Tiber stretch of the river close to the Tiber now marked by the ruins of the 16th Island, the first Romans were able century Ponte Rotto (Aemilian to benefit from the intense trade be- Bridge). There is archeological evi- tween the two areas and rapidly at- dence of the formation of small set- tained a position of prestige. It is no tlements of hut-dwellers on the coincidence that the river bank Palatine and on the other hills in overlooking this point was referred the Tiber plain in around 1000 BC. to as the Forum Boarium, or cattle These became united in the 8th market, right up to Imperial times. century BC, giving rise to the city of Over the next new centuries the Rome. The growth of these primi- place acquired a river port, located tive settlements, inhabited by where the Anagrafe (Public Latins, Sabines and Etruscans, was Records Office) currently stands in encouraged by the possibility of ex- Via Petroselli, and temples celebrat- panding trade along the river. Salt, ing the exploits of Hercules, who a most precious commodity be- was regarded as a protector of the cause of its use in rearing livestock place and of traders in general. This and preserving meat, was panned at was because it was here, as myth has the mouth of the Tiber near Ostia it, that the demi-god defeated the and thence transported inland, evil giant Cacus, who had stolen along the route which was to be- from him the oxen won from Gery- come the Via Salaria. But there was on: the tale perhaps reflects the role one principal factor which made the first Romans must actually have vicinity to the river fundamental in played in ensuring safe commerce. the destinies of the groups living on The area was devoted mainly to the site of the Palatine and the oth- trade throughout the Republican er hills at the time: this was the ford and Imperial periods, and in the Ear- located immediately downstream of ly Medieval period it hosted a large the Tiber Island. Later replaced by Byzantine settlement, due to its the famous Pons Sublicius, this ford closeness to the Imperial palaces on joined the two main routes tra- the Palatine, thus becoming known versed by livestock farmers: the as the Greek stretch of the river bank 8 route which led to the Etruscan (ripa graeca). 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 9 The Cradle of Civilization 1. Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the Bocca della Verità and the Great Altar of Hercules he church of S. Maria in in the 6th century AD. And in 782 Pope Cosmedin, in Piazza Bocca della Hadrian I had the ruins of the Great Al- TVerità, stands on top of the site of tar of Hercules demolished in order to the Great Altar of Hercules. The archa- expand it, as a sign of solidarity to- ic cult of Hercules was one of the most wards Greek monks taking refuge deeply rooted among the Romans, and from the persecution of Emperor Con- there are many religious and mytho- stantine V. A monastery was added to logical references to the god in the the church at the end of the first mil- area. Many centuries later the Byzan- lennium, and it became known as the tine Greek community from Constan- Kosmidion, in memory of a building of tinople was to establish its first abode the same name in Byzantium. During in the area of these ancient temples the intervention of the Normans in (Ara Maxima, Hercules Invictus, Aedes 1078 in defence of Pope Gregory VII, Aemiliana Herculis). Indeed, it was the church was heavily sacked and lat- Eastern monks who built the er restored between 1118-19 and monastic foundation 1124. In 1715, under Pope (diaconia) known Clement XI, the lev- as S. Maria in el of the Schola square in Grae- front ca was 9 Bocca della Verità 03-The Cradle of Civilization 20-03-2007 17:04 Pagina 10 walk rd 3 lowered to bring it down to that of the ite, the remains of a fresco depicting interior of the church, and three years the Annunciation and the Nativity and, later the architect Giuseppe Sardi was on the right, the funerary monument commissioned to redesign both the in- of the 12th century prelate Alphanus. terior and the exterior of the church. The architrave of the entrance, signed The elegant baroque façade, under- by Johannes de Venetia, depicts the taken at this time by Sardi, was unfor- hand of God in the act of blessing with tunately destroyed between 1894 and the thumb and ring finger united, ac- 1899 during attempts by G.B. Giove- cording to Greek custom. On the left, nale to restore the church to its pre- at the end of the portico is the church’s sumed appearance in Medieval times. most famous monument: the great The current façade is in brick, preceded mask known as the Bocca della Verità by a portico on piers, with latticed sin- (Mouth of Truth). This is an ancient Ro- gle-leaved windows on the upper man mask which probably served as storey. The upper part of the façade is the cover of a water drain, and the slightly set back, with a seven- presence of two dolphins, storey Romanesque belltower the profiles of which can on the left, decorated with just be made out, suggest it convex mouldings and poly- may have depicted the god chrome marble disks and con- Oceanus, or at least some taining elegant three-leaved river god.