Lībiešu Krasts the Liv Coast Die Livische Küste

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Lībiešu Krasts the Liv Coast Die Livische Küste 1 Lībiešu krasts The Liv Coast Die livische Küste Tekstu sagatavoja: Baiba Šuvcāne Sastādīja: Baiba Šuvcāne, Sanda Poriņa, Inese Roze Tulki: Aija Abens, Kaspars Poriņš, Sanda Poriņa Vāka foto: Viesturs Ozoliņš Foto: Baiba Šuvcāne, Sanda Poriņa, Jānis Mednis, Ansis Klucis, Edgars Hausmanis, Inese Roze, Latviešu folkloras krātuve, Rojas Jūras zvejniecības muzejs Grāmatā izmantotas dzejas rindas no lībiešu dzejas izlases „Es viltīgāks par tevi, menca.”, 1998. Kartogrāfija:SIA „Karšu izdevniecība Jāņa sēta” Dizains: SIA „Mēness upe” dizaina studija Iespiests: SIA „Talsu tipogrāfija” Izdevējs: © PA „Talsu rajona tūrisma informācijas centrs” 2008 2 Ievads Introduction Einführung Cauri gadu simtiem – paaudžu un dzimtu glabāta un kopta. Amatu meistaru rokām laivās un tīklos darināta. Košām krāsām tērpos un rakstos austa. Dziesminieku un teicēju apdziedāta. Tradīciju, tautas vadoņu un senu zīmju sargāta. Laikmetu griežu un vēsturisku notikumu celta un ārdīta. Skarbu vēju pūsta un jūras viļņu skalota. Zvīņu, mēness un zvaigžņu sudrabota. Priežu smaržas, kaiju un saules apmīļota – lībiešu zeme. Lībieši, lībiskais, lībiešu krasts. Kādam tas ir dzimtas saknes un atmiņas. Citam – realitāte un ikdiena. Lielākai daļai cilvēku – mistika, romantika, noslēpums un šodien, kā atklājums. Ovīši, Lūžņa, Miķeļtornis, Lielirbe, Sīkrags, Mazirbe, Košrags, Pitrags, Saunags, Vaide, Kolka un Melnsils. Ciemi un mājas ar jocīgiem nosaukumiem, skanējumu un tikai nojaušamu vienreizīgumu, un neatkārtojamību. Katrs ar savu stāstu. Ir nostūri, kur meži, purvi un jūras krasts saglabājuši savu neskartību un pirmatnējību. Ir vietas, kur joprojām atrodamas padomju laika robežu apsardzes zīmes un ēku krāsmatas, un ir arī unikāli civilizācijas un dabas veidoti objekti – likteņu, kultūras mantojuma un senvēstures liecinieki. Izdevums „Lībiešu krasts” – apliecinājums un atgādinājums šodienai un nākamajām paaudzēm, ka mums vēl ir neizpostīta zemes strēlīte Baltijas jūras krastā, kur kādreiz dzīvojusi lepna tauta, kura līdz mūsu dienām kā vissvētāko dārgumu nesusi savu karogu un valodu, savu dziesmu, pašapziņu un identitāti. Vai jūras malā, vai kaut kur tālu pasaulē – tā sīksta un stalta kā vecā, baltā bāka, - bet ar sirdi vienmēr – lībiešu krastā. Throughout the centuries, it has been cherished and nurtured by generations. Masters have created its boats and nets. Vivid colours adorn its designs and clothing. Singers and storytellers have described it. Traditions, notable leaders, and ancient symbols have protected it. Time and historical events have raised it and then left it to ruin. Bitter winds and waves of the sea envelope it. The scales of fish and the moon and the stars make it shine. The scent of pines, the sound of gulls, and the rays of the sun embrace it – the Liv land. The Livs, Liv traditions, the Liv coast – these are the roots and memories of many. For others, it is everyday reality. For most, it is something mystical, romantic, unknown and appears today as a revelation. Ovīši, Lūžņa, Miķeļtornis, Lielirbe, Sīkrags, Mazirbe, Košrags, Pitrags, Saunags, Vaide, Kolka and Melnsils. Towns and homesteads with odd-sounding names and a sense of uniqueness. Each has its own story to tell. There are corners where the forest, bogs, and the sea coast remain untouched by time and people. One can also still find reminders of the Soviet occupation, patrol signs and building ruins, as well as unique reminders of witnesses to history and culture created by both humans and nature. The book The Liv Coast is a testament and reminder to the current and future generations of this strip of land along the Baltic Sea that is miraculously unspoiled; where a proud people once lived and continue to do so holding on to what it considers dear through its language and songs, identity and self-awareness, and its flag. Whether on the coast of the sea or in some far-flung corner of the earth – one remains tough and tall like an old, reliable lighthouse – but the heart never leaves the Liv coast. Durch Jahrhunderte – von Generationen und Familien gehütet und gepflegt. Mit Händen der Meister in Boote und Netze gemacht. In bunten Farben und in Mustern gewebt. Von Liedermachern und Sängern besungen. Von Traditionen, Volksführern und alten Zeichen beschützt. Von der Zeit und den historischen Ereignissen aufgebaut und zerstört. Von scharfen Winden umweht und von den Wellen der See bespült. Von Schuppen, vom Mond und von den Sternen versilbert. Vom Kiefernduft, von Möwen und von der Sonne geliebt: Das ist das livische Land. Die Liven, die livische Kultur, die livische Küste. Für manche sind das die Wurzeln und Erinnerungen der Familie. Für andere – Realität und Alltag. Für die meisten – Mystik, Romantik, Geheimnis und heute noch wie eine Entdeckung. Ovīši, Lūžņa, Miķeļtornis, Lielirbe, Sīkrags, Mazirbe, Košrags, Pitrags, Saunags, Vaide, Kolka und Melnsils. Dörfer und Häuser mit seltsamen Namen, Klang und nur einer zu ahnenden Einmaligkeit und Einzigartigkeit. Jedes mit seiner eigenen Geschichte. Es gibt Ecken, wo Wälder, Moore und die Küste ihre Unberührtheit und Ursprünglichkeit bewahrt haben. Es gibt Orte, wo man immer noch Zeichen der Grenzüberwachung aus der Sowjetzeit und Haustrümmer finden kann, und es gibt auch einzigartige, von der Zivilisation und Natur geformte Objekte – Zeugen von Schicksalen, des Kulturerbes und der Urgeschichte. Die Ausgabe Die livische Küste – Bestätigung und Erinnerung für heute und die nächsten Generationen, dass wir noch einen nicht zerstörten Landstreifen an der Küste haben, wo früher ein stolzes Volk gelebt hat, das bis heute seine Fahne und Sprache, seine Lieder, sein Selbstbewusstsein und seine Identität als den heiligsten Schatz bewahrt hat. Ob an der Küste, oder irgendwo weit in der Welt – es ist hartnäckig und stattlich wir der alte, weiße Leuchtturm – aber sein Herz liegt an der livischen Küste. Tabita Kalniņa 1 1 Ovīši – Paţikmō Jānis Princis Jā, itin viss te Dieva dots, viss viņa gudri sakārtots, un tālab viņu slavē. Jāņ Prints nūoŗimi - Ka mis üd um se Jumal lūond, um kovalõks sīez ilmõ tūond, kītõbõd ammõ lūojizt. Ovīši ir sena apdzīvota vieta, kādreiz to Ovīšu bākas darbinieku apzīmēja ar starptautiski pazīstamu skandināvu vārdu Liseort (Lyseort, Lusort). Vieta iezīmīga ar to, ka tai pretī māja un stacija jūrā atrodas bīstams sēkļu rajons. Te bojā gājuši ne mazums kuģu. Ovīši lighthouse workers’ Lībieši Ovīšus sauca par Paţikmā, bet to neuzskatīja par lībiešu ciemu. Domājams, pēc dzimtbūšanas residence and station Das Arbeiterhaus des atcelšanas te ienāca arī lībieši, bet lībiskās vides trūkuma dēļ drīz vien pārlatviskojās. Mūsdienās Ovīšu ciems Leuchtturms von Ovīši ir ļoti sarucis. Latvijas brīvvalsts laikā bez Ovīšu bākas te bijušas 50 sētas, bet 1990. gadā bija palikušas tikai und der Bahnhof desmit. Ovīšos dzimis lībiešu izcelsmes zinātnieks, pasaulē pazīstamais entomologs Kārlis Princis (1893–1978). Emigrējis uz Zviedriju 1944. gadā. Vislielāko ievērību entomologu vidū K. Princis ieguvis ar sastādīto vispasaules “Blattariae” (prusaku) katalogu. Zinātnieki K. Princi ir pagodinājuši, divas jaunatklātas “blattariae” ģintis nosaucot viņa vārdā – “Princisis”. Ovīšu bākas muzejs Ovīši lighthouse museum Leuchtturmmuseum von Ovīši Ovīšu bāka ir Latvijas vecākā bākā, kas bez ārējām izmaiņām funkcionē vēl šodien. Kopš 1814. gada ar saviem gaismas signāliem tā brīdina jūrniekus no draudīgajiem Ovīšu sēkļiem. Bākas iekštelpu centrā iebūvēts otrs tornis. Bākas augstums 37 metri, uz elektrisko apgaismojumu tā pārslēgta 1960. gadu sākumā. Teritorijā labi saglabājusies bākas darbinieku ēka, kas celta 1905. gadā. Kad maršrutā Ventspils–Mazirbe sāka kursēt mazbānītis, šai ēkā pāris telpu tika atvēlētas Ovīšu stacijai. Palīgēkā bākas uzraugi Lilija un Pēteris Pazņikovi izveidojuši Ovīšu bākas muzeju. Abu bākas entuziastu saistošais un emocionālais stāstījums sniedz vērtīgas ziņas par Ovīšu un citu bāku vēsturi. Ovīši is an ancient settlement which was once internationally known as Liseort (Lyseort, Lusort). This spot is significant in that just off the coast are dangerous shoals upon which many ships have been stranded and lost. The Livs called Ovīši Paţikmā but did not consider it a Liv settlement. It is believed that after the freeing of Ovīšu bāka Ovīši lighthouse the serfs, Livs migrated to this area, but soon assimilated Leuchtturm von Ovīši with the local Latvians. Nowadays, the population of Ovīši 2 is greatly reduced. During the interwar period, in addition to the lighthouse, there were 50 homesteads. By 1990, only ten remained. The world-famous entomologist Kārlis Princis (1893–1978) was born in Ovīši. He fled the Soviet invasion and went to Sweden at the end of World War II in 1944. He is best known for his international cockroach catalogue Blattariae. The scientific world has honoured Princis by naming two newly discovered blattariae genera in his name – Princisis. Ovīši Lighthouse is Latvia’s oldest lighthouse which continues to function in its original state even today. It has warned sailors about the dangerous shoals off the coast since 1814. Another tower has been constructed within the original lighthouse. The lighthouse is 37 metres high and was electrified in 1960. The workers’ living quarters, built in 1905, are well preserved on the territory. Several rooms in the building were alloted to the Ovīši train station while the narrow-gauge train from Ventspils to Mazirbe was in operation. The Ovīši Lighthouse Museum was created by Lilija and Pēteris Pazņikovs and installed in the local outbuilding. These lighthouse enthusiasts offer interesting
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