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Eastern Slovenia

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Eastern Slovenia ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Eastern Slovenia Includes ¨ Why Go? Upper Savinja Eastern Slovenia, embracing three provinces, rises from flat Valley ..............185 agricultural lands to snow-capped peaks. Its mountains, riv- Celje ...............188 ers and thermal waters provide a natural playground, while Šempeter ...........194 many of its historic towns date back to Roman times. Rogaška Slatina .....197 Sizable Štajerska (Styria) has swathes of farmland, much of it rich with vineyards, obligingly linked by cyclable wine Ptuj ...............200 routes. It also claims the Savinja Alps and the Pohorje Mas- Maribor ........... 206 sif, an adventure-land of outdoor activities, and historical Maribor Pohorje .....212 centres with castles, medieval alleys and ancient churches. Moravske Toplice ... 222 Tiny Koroška (Carinthia) is a region of forests, mountains Radenci ........... 223 and highland meadows and is tailor-made for outdoor activ- ities, including skiing, mountain biking and hiking. In the far northeast, Prekmurje is Slovenia’s ‘forgotten’ cor- ner, mostly a broad, farmed plain ‘beyond the Mura River’, which has preserved its culture of traditional music, folklore, Best Places to Eat architecture and food. It’s a great place to relax and enjoy tak- ¨ Restavracija Mak (p210) ing the waters at its many thermal spas. ¨ Gostilna Rajh (p221) ¨ Gostilna Ribič (p204) ¨ Gostilna Amadeus (p204) When to Go Maribor ¨ Pri Florjanu (p211) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ Gostilna Lovenjak (p222) 30/86 10/250 8/200 20/68 6/150 10/50 Best Places to 4/100 0/32 Stay 2/50 ¨ DomKulture MuziKafe -10/14 0 (p204) J FDNOSAJJMAM ¨ Hotel Mitra (p204) Skiers Crowds Aug–Oct Ideal ¨ Dec–Mar Feb/Mar Grand Hotel Rogaška head to Maribor flock to Ptuj for the for walking and (p199) Pohorje, Slo- masked Kuren- climbing in Logar- ¨ MCC Hostel (p191) venia’s biggest tovanje carnival ska Dolina; grape downhill skiing parade; storks ar- harvest begins. ¨ Herbal Glamping Resort centre. rive in Prekmurje. Ljubno (p188) 185 ŠTAJERSKA eagles, peregrine falcons), is a wonderful place to explore for a few days. Štajerska has long been the crossroads of Slo- venia and virtually everyone has ‘slept here’ – 1 Sights & Activities Celts, Romans, early Slavs, Habsburgs and Nazi occupiers. In the 14th century, the Ger- The tourist office (p188) can organise any man-speaking Counts of Celje were among number of activities – from guided moun- the richest and most powerful feudal dynas- taineering and rock climbing (per hour €25) EAST ties in Central Europe, and they challenged to paragliding (€75) and canyoning (€110). the Austrian monarchy’s rule for a century. It also rents mountain bikes (per hour/day E RN RN Štajerska suffered more than most of the €3/12), as does Hotel Plesnik (p188). The val- rest of Slovenia during WWII, when many of ley has the very basic Logarska Dolina ski S % LOV its inhabitants were murdered, deported or grounds ( 03-838 90 04; www.logarska-dolina. si; day pass adult/child €10/7) , a 1km-long slope sent to Nazi labour camps. E and 13km of cross-country ski trails served NIA by two tows. Š S U I T pp Logarska Dolina Country Park PARK GH Upper Savinja Valley AJE (Krajinski Park Logarska Dolina; Apr-Sep & week- E The beautiful Upper Savinja Valley (Zgornja ts R rsk Savinjska Dolina) is bound by forests, an- ends in Oct admission per car/motorcycle €7/5, SA & & cient churches, traditional farmhouses and pedestrians & cyclists free; hyear-round) Logar- VI Activiti ska Dolina Country Park is one of the most A high Alpine peaks. There are activities here VA NJA to suit every taste and inclination – from beautiful ‘hidden’ spots of Slovenia and a hiking, mountain biking and rock climbing paradise for those seeking adventure and outdoor activities. A road goes past a chap- LL to fishing, kayaking and swimming in the E Savinja. el and through the woods to the 90m-high S EY The valley has been exploited for its tim- Rinka Waterfall (Slap Rinka) at 1100m, but ber since the Middle Ages. Rafters transport- there are plenty of trails to explore and up to ed the timber from Ljubno to Mozirje and 20 other waterfalls in the area. Celje and some of the logs travelled as far as The bottom of the Rinka Waterfall is a Romania. The trade brought wealth to the 10-minute walk from the end of the valley valley, evident from the many fine buildings road. The climb to the top takes about 20 still standing here. minutes; it’s not very difficult, but it can The best place to get active is around Log- get slippery. From the top to the west you arska Dolina. The free English-language bro- can see three peaks reaching higher than chures entitled The Savinjska and Šaleška 2250m: Kranjska Rinka, Koroška Rinka and Valleys and the Solčava Panoramic Road Štajerska Rinka. Until 1918 they formed the are helpful for exploring the area. Hikers triple border of Carniola (Kranjska), Carin- should pick up a copy of the map Hiking in thia (Koroška) and Styria (Štajerska). Ask the Lap of the Alps (€1) from the TIC or buy the tourist office for the Trail through the the more detailed Zgornja Savinjska Do- Logar Valley brochure, a 14km hike which lina GZS map or the Kamniško Savinjske will take you through the valley in about five Alpe one (both 1:50,000, €8.10) by PZS. Cy- hours. clists will want the Kolesarska Karta Zgorn- Opposite Dom Planincev is a trail leading ja Savinjska Dolina (Upper Savinja Valley to Sušica Waterfall and Klemenča Cave, both Cycling Map; €3). at about 1200m. Matkov Kot VALLEY Logarska Dolina Much less explored than neighbouring Log- % 03 / POP 110 / ELEV UP TO 1250M arska Dolina, this magnificent 6km-long val- Most of the glacial ‘Forester Valley’, which is ley runs parallel to Logarska Dolina and the 7.5km long and no more than 500m wide, border with Austria. Reach here by road by has been a country park of just under 24 sq turning west as you leave Logarska Dolina. km since 1987. This ‘pearl of the Alpine re- gion’, with more than 40 natural attractions – 4 Sleeping & Eating caves, springs, peaks, rock towers and wa- Dom Planincev CABIN € terfalls – as well as endemic flora (golden (%03-584 70 06, 070 847 639; www.domplanincev. slipper orchid) and rare fauna (mountain si; Logarska Dolina 15a; per person without/with breakfast €18/23; hlate-Apr–Oct; p) This .
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