Cambridge University Press 978-0-521-15632-5 — Cookery for the Hospitality Industry Graham Dodgshun , Michel Peters , David O'Dea Excerpt More Information

CHAPTER 01 Introduction Contents

Timing and teamwork 3

Seasoning and consistency 4

Measuring ingredients 4

Portion sizes and presentation 4

Preparation time 5

Understanding recipes 5

Gastronomy 6

Food combinations 7

Presentation of dishes and their service 8

The selection and care of knives 9

Australian cutting board colour system 13

Do not wish to be anything but what you are, and try to be that perfectly. St Francis de Sales

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chapter 1: introduction 3

The Australian culinary scene has changed cater for and the buzz of being an important part signiicantly over the past 20 years or so. of many Grand Occasions to enjoy. arrangements in the home, extended working This book is just the beginning in your hours that spill over to the evening and weekend, discovery of all the things you will want to know the diversity of leisure and sporting activities, an about and . It will start you on a ageing population and the acceptance of Asian and lifelong journey that holds many rewards and other have inluenced our approach to some challenges that will enable you to achieve commercial cookery. some ‘empathy for food’. In this book, we have Only rarely do we see raw vegetables and carcass set out the fundamental principles, practices meat coming into even the largest . Basic and disciplines of professional cooking. With preparation often is completed in dedicated this foundation you will be able to expand your food-processing plants and boning rooms. repertoire of dishes and develop your skills. You Standardisation of size, weight and quality is will need to read widely. Fortunately, many books readily available. Sauces, pre-mixed ingredients, have recorded the history of the trade, and new par-baked and pre-portioned meat cuts are colourful books and magazines are helpful in accepted and available even to the retail market. gauging food fashions and trends. In the past the hotel and catering industry Here are some important points to help you to comprised residential hotels and , make the most of this book. industrial catering, hospitals and institutions. Today, industrial catering has all but disappeared Timing and teamwork and the food-service industry includes many businesses that provide away from home, Preparation time depends on the skill of the . such as coffee shops, licensed clubs, event catering, Work schedules need to be planned in advance bakery cafés and service stations. It contributes for each day. Fresh supplies must be ordered and to books and magazines, participates in television delivery times agreed; need to be reviewed entertainment and recognises celebrity chefs. and special functions taken into account. Then It organises its own exhibitions and national work plans must be set and tasks allocated to the competitions, and has a signiicant inluence on staff rostered for work. the population’s food choices and nutrition. All the food service departments, and kitchens It is against this background that young (and in particular, depend on teamwork to get the not so young) chefs will start their training and preparation and the inished dishes ready on enter the food service industry. Everyone knows time. A well-organised will depend on about cooking, but not so many acquire the depth good leadership from the executive chef and of knowledge of ingredients and lavours and good communication and mutual respect among understand the chemistry and physics of food the chefs and apprentices. A good working preparation that the aspiring chef must achieve. environment will make the work satisfying and However, there are more skills to acquire. Using rewarding for the entire food service operation. the hand tools of the trade, following safe working The preparation usually referred to as mise en procedures with the latest machinery and hot and place (things in place) is central to the operation of cold processes, working as a team and showing the food service. When the preparation is late or respect for self and others are other skills and poorly done tempers begin to fray and shouting knowledge that must be acquired. There are new commences as the orders are received. Some and tastes to be discovered, the pressure of us can remember when, just before the start of and excitement of the service to experience, the service, the sous chef would call each section of provision of refreshments for conventions and the kitchen to answer that it was ‘en place’. If the seminars, celebrations and marketing events to answer was negative, it was the duty of the sous

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4 cookery for the hospitality industry

chef to re-direct staff to sections of the kitchen that They also have tare feature that allows the weight needed assistance. Poor or incompetent preparation of a container placed on the weighing platform has a bad effect not only on the kitchen but on the to be ignored in the calculation. This speeds the food service as a whole. Customers know when weighing process and keeps the scales clean. the service coming out of the kitchen is delayed Measuring cups or spoons should be illed and or corners are cut and standards are dropped, and levelled off to achieve an accurate result. business is likely to decline. When converting recipes from another system into metric measure, irst ind the country of origin Seasoning and consistency and calculate the equivalent metric amount. Round off the amounts to the nearest 5 grams, Even with standard recipes and ingredients, bearing in mind that 1 ounce equals 28 grams, or different chefs will achieve different results. 10 millilitres in the case of liquids. Test the recipe For this reason, the chef must make a habit of and make adjustments if necessary. constantly monitoring the cooking operation. When the food is ready to be served or plated, it is often necessary to adjust the seasoning and consistency. This requires taste and observation. NOTE: Consistency concerns liquids, which can Scaling up recipes to yield a larger number of portions is be corrected by reduction, slight thickening or simple when items such as steaks or illets are involved. addition of liquid. For more information, see Recipes for sauces and soups can be increased when Chapter 14 on Sauces. the number of portions in the original recipe is known. Tasting must be done in a hygienic manner, However, the quantity of thickeners and seasoning must be re-calculated when scaling up, as cooking times need to be using a clean spoon or taster every time in order extended for large quantities, and the rate of evaporation of to detect the true lavour and seasoning. liquid increases. The amount of seasoning must be determined by tasting again and again, until the correct lavour balance is obtained. Food should be only lightly Conversion tables salted, as some diners habitually salt food before information tasting it. People have become accustomed to high salt levels that can mask true lavours. Food should always be slightly under-seasoned until it is A trace ready to be served or plated so that it can then be A ‘trace’ is a background lavour that should not adjusted by addition if necessary. be identiied in the inished . It could be less Remember that seasoning, once added, cannot than one gram; it might be a pinch but the amount be removed. must bear a relationship to the quantity in the recipe. Remember – less is more in terms of subtle Measuring ingredients lavours. Unfortunately, many systems of measurement are used in recipes – grams and litres, pounds and Portion sizes and presentation ounces, gills, pints, quarts and gallons, teaspoons, These vary greatly in different sectors of the tablespoons and cups – metric, American and industry. British. An Australian ‘cup’, for example, is not The portion sizes stated in this text are a cup nor a cup, it is 250 millilitres. commercially acceptable, but must be varied Measuring ingredients has become much to suit the needs of the particular food service. easier with the development of electronic scales Portion sizes should be decided according to the that measure amounts by weight and volume. following factors:

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chapter 1: introduction 5

• The expectations of the diner. This will be recipe and visualising the inished product. inluenced by the venue and dishes on the Recipes, like house plans, assume the reader menu. Portion sizes for counter meals in hotels has studied the principles and practice of the and clubs may need be substantial because subject; in this case, food. The point here is to diners are looking for a feed and may only underscore the importance of learning the theory order a main . Diners visiting up-market of cookery. It involves aspects of mathematics, restaurants may order three courses and spend physics, chemistry, biology and gastronomy. The time over the meal. reader needs to keep this knowledge in mind when • The number of courses to be served in the using the recipes. meal. For example, a degustation menu that Recipes in this book list the ingredients in the lists a number of courses is likely to have order in which they are used. After careful review, smaller portions than a menu offering two or the procedure is expressed in plain English. In three courses. most cases, the quantities relate to portions at two • The nutritional needs and the physical state of levels. This accounts for the needs of students in the consumers. Aged-care facilities, hospitals, class and an example of commercial quantities. childcare centres and institutions pay great The food items listed are readily available. attention to dietary requirements. Residential The recipes have been consciously selected to care homes and institutions provide all the provide practice and experience for students. It residents’ meals and thus have the added is anticipated that trainee chefs will build on this responsibility of providing a nutritionally foundation and increase their repertoire of dishes balanced diet. in line with their own interests, fashion and the needs of the workplace. Preparation time Recipes could be regarded as falling into three broad categories: generic, mainstream and bakery. Preparation time will often depend on the skill Generic recipes are those that form the of the . In a commercial kitchen, two or foundation of culinary preparations. Examples more dishes are made at the same time. Some are the stocks, the basic sauces such as Béchamel, may be drawing on mise en place, while others the basic preparations – Mirepoix and coating require preparation from scratch. For this reason, mixtures. Stocks are not served, but provide the times have not been included in this book. Work foundation for other cookery. Basic sauces may be schedules need to be planned each day, and this is served as they are, but usually go on to become best learnt in the practical situation. greater things (see table 14.2 Basic sauces and Close cooperation between the chef, cooks their derivatives). and apprentices saves time and produces a good Mainstream recipes comprise most of the working environment, thus making the job more culinary repertoire, and include the roasts, braises, enjoyable for all members of the team. fries and all ethnic cuisines. Generic and mainstream recipes require good Understanding recipes knife skills for trimming, cutting and keeping waste to a minimum. Quantities given in the recipe What is a recipe? must be used to achieve the portion yield required. The entire business of food preparation and However, if ingredients are of lesser quality, more cookery is based upon recipes. Like a formula for trimming may be needed. Small variations may colour mixing or plans for a building, recipes list be tolerated, so long as the inished dish is not the materials and the ways in which they are to compromised. It is usual to allow for adjustments be used. As an architect learns to read a plan, so to seasoning and consistency during the cooking the chef needs to be skilled in understanding the process and prior to inal presentation.

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6 cookery for the hospitality industry

Bakery covers most of the edible grain foods Consider various food groups and lavour – breads, cakes and pastries – and ice cream proiles, and keep in mind the methods of cookery and chocolate. Recipes in this category are that will be used in the recipe. Decide the context often written in a different format, so that the in which the recipe is to be used – the dining area, ingredients are set out in groups. They require be it formal or casual, the course and budget. strict adherence to weights, measures, time and Select the main ingredient and style of cookery. temperature to achieve satisfactory results. Add the proposed garnishes and accompaniments Bakery recipes need a slightly different if required. Write a pilot recipe for testing. approach than generic and mainstream recipes. Consult with your peers; amend the recipe and The selection, weight and volume of ingredients make a second trial. are critical at the start. The temperature of raw Cost the recipe and be prepared to adjust it if ingredients is important because it aids or inhibits the cost is over budget. emulsiication. Pastes need time to set off, and Conirm the recipe and enter it on a computer some mixtures must be warm to encourage program. Make references to date, who created it coagulation. Ingredients carelessly measured or and code number if required. left out by mistake cannot be added once mixing has commenced or the product is in the oven. Altering a recipe to match catering requirements Reading the recipe Great care must be exercised in bulking up Always read the recipe thoroughly, before even recipes, particularly with regard to seasoning going into the kitchen. Think about the ingredients and thickening. Large quantities of sauced or involved. Research any ingredients that are new to ‘wet’ dishes take longer to cook. This may result you. Consider how much time should be allocated in increased evaporation of the cooking liquid to each step and whether resting or cooling times and overcooking of garnishes such as vegetables. are necessary in the process. Delay adding salt until the item is cooked. Sauces Assemble all the ingredients and equipment thickened with potato lour will thin out if frozen for the task, but keep clear a good work space. or held for long periods. Amend the recipe to Give full attention to the task at hand so that the use another thickener. Short-order work such as preparation lows and time lines can be achieved. grilling or pan frying is not a problem, as the food is continuously cooked to order. Recipe development The volumes of bakery recipes can be increased, From time to time, chefs are asked to develop new provided standard ratios of ingredients are recipes. Maybe a new menu is to be written or food maintained. For example, equal quantities of prepared for a special theme or function. Start by sugar, butter (fat), eggs and lour will make a cake. thinking about why the recipe is being developed However, recipes with large yields use special- or created from scratch. purpose vegetable margarines and lours. Bread Assess the capacity of the kitchen in relation dough is sensitive to temperature and its effect to large and small equipment, and the expertise on yeast activity. Large doughs need to be ‘taken’ of the kitchen staff. Recipes involving considerable and ‘worked off’ within time limits and away preparation time or needing much oven or stove from draughts. top space may not be practical in the circumstance. Read widely. There is an abundance of books Gastronomy and magazines, both old and new, that can be researched for ideas. Discard procedures or ideas Gastronomy is the art and science of good that are not practical. and drinking. In his book Marketing of the Meal

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chapter 1: introduction 7

Experience, Graeme Campbell-Smith discusses Taste of food is perceived in the mouth through two elements of the gastronomic experience – taste buds on the tongue that identify sweet, sour, the ‘living environment’ and ‘the food on the bitter, salt and umami, or the taste of savouriness. plate’. If the latter is the most important part of These are the primary tastes that are present in the experience it is solely the responsibility of all cooking. Taste is inluenced by heat and cold; the chef and his or her team. It is therefore most pungent and astringent foods give rise to different important that the team has a clear understanding taste sensations. of its opportunity and responsibility to provide Tastes are perceptions that change from one meals and/or dishes that meet, or are likely to individual to another according to circumstances, exceed, the expectations of diners. but are also inluenced by cultural background, All the ive senses – sight, hearing, smell, taste food habits, taste training, age and education. and touch – come into play when eating a meal. If These short notes on the role of the senses the combination is balanced and well matched to in gastronomy highlight the need for a chef to the food, it is enjoyed; if not, the food is rejected practise the science and art of tasting; to be aware and the experience remembered with regret. that food is enjoyed if all the senses are satisied. Sight is a very prominent sense when eating. A meal should have variation in the shape of If the food is recognised and ‘looks right’ it can the food and in taste, texture and temperature. be enjoyed. However, if the food is unfamiliar in No food item should have an adverse effect on appearance or colour, sight will send a strong the next one, but merely should contrast or message of caution to the brain. This visual complement it. appraisal is primary acceptance or rejection, as A good meal is not necessarily an intricate the food has not yet been tasted. A dish can be succession of dishes –invariably it involves simple totally rejected or can diminish the anticipation of dishes made from fresh ingredients that are well enjoyment just by the way it looks. cooked and carefully seasoned, and presented Hearing adds to the enjoyment of food by its neatly with a thoughtful combination and blending association with the food itself or the processes of ingredients that are suitably garnished. of cooking and service. It is expected that crudités will be crunchy, that crisp food crumbles, puff Food combinations pastry will break with a faint tearing sound, solid food will require much chewing and a champagne In the recipes, only passing reference has been cork will pop. All these sounds register in the brain made to food combinations. This does not mean through the ears and mouth. that matching ingredients is not important. A chef Smell is one of the most powerful senses. must be constantly aware of texture and lavour. Smells may reach the diner well before the This awareness comes with a conscious desire sight of the dish. The aroma of a roast, a freshly to train the senses by thinking about what is baked pastry or a cup of brewed coffee creates a being eaten – how different lavours and textures heightened level of anticipation and stimulates compare and contrast with one another; how production of saliva in the mouth. temperature affects lavours; what foods are bland Touch refers to the sensation that food provides or spicy, bitter or salty, sweet or sour etc. Refer to in the mouth while being chewed. The tongue Chapter 5 Menu planning and Chapter 22 is able to communicate food qualities such as for further information on this point. texture, density, temperature, moisture and Food matching viscosity. The ‘mouth feel’, which mirrors the food additional resources combination, has a strong inluence on the taste of the food.

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8 cookery for the hospitality industry

Presentation of dishes and their If the food is to be presented on platters, allow plenty of room so that the food can be service served neatly without demolishing the entire The enjoyment of a meal is determined by a arrangement after a few serves. If the food is number of factors extending beyond the actual plated in the kitchen, make sure that the main preparation and cooking of food; not least of these item is at the front of the plate, with the vegetables is the person dining. It may be that the diner is grouped at the back – that is how the plate should alone, or attending a business meeting, social be placed in the front of the guest. occasion or celebration, or comprises a family with young children. All of these combinations Temperature create a different ‘scene’ that should inluence the Cold food must be served on cold plates and salads style and rhythm of service. The kitchen, or ‘back in cold bowls. If plates are in short supply, do not of the house’, may not be aware of these little take warm plates from the dish washer to serve scenes; however, it is necessary to understand the cold food. Put the plates in a refrigerator or, better close link that must exist between the teams in still, buy a few more plates. Likewise, hot food the kitchen and those on service. A high level of must be served on hot plates. If single-serve items cooperation and excellent communication must are baked in an oven it will be necessary to use exist. It is the foundation upon which the food an under-plate (or liner) for service and include a service is built. warning to waiting staff and diners. This style of The environment in which the food is to be service requires careful planning and may require served inluences the level of expectation of two plates so that the item can be transferred to a the food service. Restaurateurs and other food- plate with vegetables or . service managers place great importance on décor, Excellent coordination between waiting staff furnishings and uniforms. Even before seeing the and the kitchen is the key to serving dishes at the menu, diners gain an impression that will have an right temperature. Many a meal has been spoilt inluence on the meal experience. because a dish is left languishing on the hot plate. Having considered these factors, the dishes Garnishes and accompaniments served must meet expectations by looking attractive and tasting good. Some chefs place A garnish should provide a focal point for the food much emphasis upon lavour alone, while others on the plate. It should complement the main item concentrate only upon the presentation. There is both in style and lavour. The style of garnishing a need to strike a balance; the ideal meal consists depends upon the course, the texture of the food of attention to, and harmony in, both. Following and the type of dish. are some simple guidelines that help to make a Garnishes must be simple, in some way be meal attractive. related to the main food item, small, edible and attractive. Arrangement of the food Unlike garnishes that are served on the When planning a course, try to visualise how it will dish, accompaniments are offered separately. look. The food items should appear to be balanced, They may be sauces or relish, or an addition with two or three colours and attractive shapes that complements the food. Sometimes on the plate. Trim the meat, ish or main item accompaniments are made available for diners correctly before cooking. For the time and effort to serve themselves or to be served by the spent in preparing a dish it surely must be worth waiting staff. the effort to present the food to its best advantage.

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chapter 1: introduction 9

Plates Ensure plates are spotless after plating the meal Use the correct plate Wipe any drips of sauce or inger marks before leaving the kitchen. Plates come in different sizes for different courses and in different shapes to suit various The selection and care of knives arrangements of food. For example, oval plates are favoured for ish, round plates for red and Knives are to the chef as the paint brush is to the white meats and square plates for cheese. Take artist or the turning chisel to the wood turner. To account of the range of colours and patterns have knowledge of the construction, range, safe of crockery available and match these with use and care of knives is a great help in all culinary the food. operations. As a start, it is necessary to distinguish Select the size of plate to match the portion between the kitchen knives sold in shops for home size of the food. If a plate is too small, the food use or gourmet cooking and knives forged by will look crowded and unappetising. If a plate is long-established cutlery makers for professional too large, the food will look lost and the portion chefs. The former are stamped, sometimes hollow, will appear to be skimpy. ground knives made according to prices set for mass marketing, and are not suitable for use in Carefully arrange the food on the plate commercial kitchens. On the other hand, suitable Consider a plate or a to be like a frame knives and steels for trade work can be obtained for a picture. Food must never hang over the from specialised catering suppliers. These knives edge or rim of the plate or platter. All the food are expensive and should be selected by the user should be contained within the inner rim of personally so that heft (that is, the weight of the the plate, just as a picture is contained inside knife and the feel of the knife in the hand) can be the frame. evaluated. The shape varies according to the task for which the knife is intended. Generally, the thinner Do not use cracked or chipped plates the blade, the better the slicing action; therefore, a As well as being a food-safety hazard, cracked or thin-bladed knife is good for carving and illeting. chipped plates are among the worst presentation A knife with a thick back will have greater stiffness faults one can imagine. Cracked or chipped and is ideal for tasks such as chopping. plates should be thrown away. Here are the parts of a knife.

handle spine

butt tip

bolster

blade edge heel Tip, blade edge, heel and bolster, handle, butt and spine (back view)

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10 cookery for the hospitality industry

For a start, the trainee chef should buy only three a carving (or scalloped-edge slicing) knife 20 or four knives and add others as needed. Generally, centimetres. Later on, offset, cheese, turning (or about six knives will be suficient for routine bird’s beak) and speciality knives can be added as kitchen work. As a guide, select a chef’s knife desired. As some knives, including scalloped-edged 20–26 centimetres, a paring knife 7–10 centimetres, knives, have right and left hand versions, you must a utility or boning knife 12–18 centimetres and clarify your preference when purchasing.

honing steel

slicing knife

granton-edge santoku knife

boning knife

illetting knife

bread knife

chef’s knife

tourne or bird’s beak knife

paring knife

Knives used in a commercial kitchen.

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chapter 1: introduction 11

A two-pronged fork about 16 centimetres Honing knives in length is needed to assist with carving. The A honing steel is used to maintain the cutting sharp ends should be shielded when not in use. edge of a knife while in use. Select a steel that is Maintaining an edge on knives 28–32 centimetres long. Steels are usually oval or round, having coarse, medium or ine groves. A First, we distinguish between honing and medium steel is preferred for general use. A baton sharpening knives, and then consider the safe use resembling a honing steel coated with industrial of knives in cooking. diamonds or made of industrial ceramics is a sharpening tool and is not suitable for honing.

To hone a knife – method 1 1 Hold the steel upright on a irm surface. 2 Hold the knife at an angle of about 20 degrees to the steel and observe the angle. 3 Commence stroking the steel with even pressure, drawing the knife from the heel to the tip against the steel, from the handle to its tip so that the tip of the knife meets the tip of the steel at the end of the stroke. 4 Repeat this action on the other side of the steel while maintaining the same angle of the knife to the steel.

Honing a knife – method 1

To hone a knife – method 2 1 Hold the steel in the left hand. 2 Hold the knife at an angle of about 20 degrees to the steel and observe the angle. 3 Place the heel of the knife at the top of the steel and draw the knife down the steel toward the guard of the steel. 4 Repeat this action on the other side of the steel while maintaining the same angle of the knife to the steel.

Honing a knife – method 2

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