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The Making of a Delvaux Bag: a Legacy of Artisanal Craftsmanship

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The Making of a Delvaux Bag: a Legacy of Artisanal Craftsmanship The making of a Delvaux bag: A legacy of artisanal craftsmanship Delvaux, inventor of the handbag If Delvaux is renowned and celebrated for the quality of its creations, it is in large part thanks to the meticulous, skilled craftsmanship that is at the heart of the company’s legacy and strategy. Founded in 1829 and official supplier to Belgium’s royal family since 1883, Delvaux was the first leather maker to file patents for handbags, as early as 1908. More than 3,000 handbag designs are recorded in Le Livre d’Or, including timeless and iconic pieces which are constantly reinvented, such as the Brillant (1958), the Mutin (1962), the Tempête (1967), the Pin (1972) or the Madame (1977). Exceptional savoir-faire At Delvaux, the making of all its products is entrusted to artisans possessing a rare level of expertise. With passion and precision, these skilled craftspeople are dedicated to la maison’s heritage which is continually reaffirmed with the creation of the finest contemporary classics—genuine works of art. Specialized in handling fine leathers,la maison’s artisans find fertile ground for expressing their expertise: they work with hides coming from the best French and Italian tanneries. These selected hides are reworked and assembled in Delvaux’s European ateliers. Selected according to the strictest criteria, rare leathers such as alligator, galuchat, ostrich, lizard and python are a Delvaux specialty. Only the highest quality skins are chosen as the foundation for crafting unique and precious designs. A unique site Entering the Arsenal in Brussels—the historic building that houses Delvaux—one has a sense of being immersed in a singular world. The headquarters are entirely configured around the ateliers which are given pride of place and around which all other departments are organized. A mezzanine surrounds and overlooks the ateliers. The offices themselves are situated along the mezzanine, affording a sweeping view of the heart of the company. Delvaux’s legacy of artisanal savoir-faire permeates the ateliers, with craftspeople who have mastered highly honed skills transmitted from generation to generation. These traditional techniques are essential for crafting exceptional pieces with the exquisite details and finishing touches for which Delvaux is renowned. The scent of leather and the sounds of instruments and tools (some of which are personally customized by the artisans) make the Delvaux ateliers a timeless place. The close proximity of offices and production is rare in the luxury goods universe. For Delvaux, this special configuration is the perfect illustration and symbol of la maison’s commitment to artisanal craftsmanship as the sine qua non for the highest level of perfection. IMAGES 1 - 2 What are the techniques that go into the crafting of a Delvaux handbag in the ateliers in Brussels? UTTING All Delvaux bags originate in the leather library where hides of every type and every colour are rigorously archived and preserved from exposure to light. IMAGES 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 The artisan leather cutter selects a specific hide and uses a marker C to indicate creases, wrinkles, and scars. Any imperfect parts that cannot be used in production are removed. To ensure a uniform look and feel for the entire bag, careful inspection of the hide is essential. Only pieces with an identical quality of colour and grain are chosen. The cutting pattern is traced only on the finest areas of the hide, even if it means that sometimes entire swaths of leather may not be acceptable by Delvaux’s standards. Cutting is done by hand, particularly for exotic skins, or with a leather punch also known as an emporte-pièce, or with a cutting machine. IMAGES 9 - 10 PLITTING AND SKIVING Splitting and skiving or thinning are preliminary steps before assembling the various pieces of a leather item. A splitter, a tool specific to the craft, is used to reduce the thickness of a piece of leather to adapt it for its intended purpose. Once all of the pieces are cut, they are laid out on the work table like a puzzle. The pieces may be thinned to a lesser or greater degree depending on the desired thickness for the mounting S of the bag. The artisan splitter may shave certain edges of the leather pieces in order to facilitate a fold, to ensure a better seam, or to create more volume. IMAGES 11 - 12 TAMPING OR EMBOSSING Since the savoir-faire behind every Delvaux product remains Belgian to this day, the logo as well as the mark of origin «Made in Belgium» are stamped on the bag or inside it. Hidden in the interior of the bag is also a time code stamp composed of four numbers to ensure that every item originating in the Delvaux ateliers can be authentically traced. S Nota bene: Products crafted in the Delvaux atelier in France are stamped with the mark of origin «Made in France». IMAGES 13 - 14 CORING AND POLISHING Using a special heated stylus that is handled with extreme care and precision, the artisan scores a very fine groove along all of the cut edges of the leather to create a decorative finish called a filetin French. This scored edge brings an extra touch of refinement to the leather and prepares it for polishing. The next step is buffing the pieces in order to eliminate any roughness or bumps. The cut edges are then tinted to match S the key colour of the final item or in a contrasting colour according to the style of the particular season. Once the layer of tint has taken, the artisan irons the leather with the scoring stylus heated to between 120 and 140 degrees. These steps—buffing, tinting, and ironing—may be repeated several times depending on the desired finish. IMAGES 15 - 16 - 17 OUNTING All of the individually prepared leather pieces are fashioned into a handbag or a small accessory. Assembling the item involves several phases which are designated as each new product line is developed. The artisan begins to mount the complete item in close collaboration with the artisan stitcher. No fewer than eight to ten hours are required to assemble iconic bags, such as the Brillant, the Tempête and the Madame. M At Delvaux, every artisan has mastered ten essential techniques— traditional handicraft methods that are an intrinsic part of la maison’s legacy and which allow these dedicated artisans to mount a Delvaux bag from A to Z. The manner in which each of these artisanal techniques is executed varies of course according to the specific bag being crafted. IMAGES 18 - 19 - 20 - 21 - 22 - 23 - 24 - 25 TITCHING In order to ensure a perfectly even line in the leather, stitching is calibrated at Delvaux. The artisan stitcher must respect a specified distance between each stitch, a specified length, and a specified number of stitches per centimetre. In keeping with Delvaux’s highly honed attention to detail, the stitcher must work meticulously to ensure that neither the beginning nor the end of a line of stitches is ever visible; each end is delicately tucked under the leather. S When a bag is cut-edged, the leather lining is stitched onto each piece of leather before being mounted. IMAGE 26 TTACHING THE HARDWARE For the final embellishments, the artisan has access to a large cabinet in the ateliers where an array of metallic hardware pieces are stored, all of which are made in France or Italy and which come in various finishes and colours according to the season. The artisan selects buckles, clasps, purse feet, or pieces for shoulder straps and handles, or other hardware suitable for the bag being worked on. These accessories are available in two to as many as five different finishes and lacquers to match or A contrast with the colours of the leather. With the help of tools or simply by hand, the mounting of the metallic pieces is often the final step in fashioning a bag; for example, attaching the signature buckle is the last stage in the crafting of a Brillant. IMAGES 27 - 28 OVING CARE AND QUALITY CONTROL Only perfectly made items are sent out into the world. A product that does not meet Delvaux’s exacting standards is never released to a boutique. Before any product leaves the ateliers, an artisan lavishes it with special care and attention. The bag is inspected and, if necessary, cleaned to ensure the highest quality. L IMAGE 29 Once the bag is completed and before it is packaged, a quality control artisan executes a final, authentic, white-glove inspection according to a precise list of criteria. The leather, the stitching, the care that has gone into each aspect of the crafting of the product—nothing escapes the artisan’s hand or eye. If a defect were to be revealed, the artisan immediately conveys it to the production department to avoid a similar error in the future. The bag is then wrapped and boxed. Before being tucked into its white cotton slipcase, it is wrapped in tissue paper, along with a certificate of authenticity and care instructions, as well as a hand mirror sheathed in leather of the same colour as the bag. IMAGES 30 - 31 - 32 - 33 USTOMER CARE With a highly developed sense of excellence and service, the artisans in Delvaux’s customer care department in Brussels provide expert care for articles that may have been affected by time. To ensure that only the most highly trained artisans are entrusted with the cleaning and repair of Delvaux’s products, the Brussels location is la maison’s sole official customer care site, receiving articles from customers around the world.
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