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Orissa Review * September - October - 2005

The Trail

Sunil Kumar Pattnaik

Buddhism - The great philosophy had its origins (such liberation was often called moksha or mukti, in . As we know some time in 6th-5th century but other words also came to be used, such as B.C. it emerged as a dominant force in Indian nirbana and kevalin). The third idea was that there religion right from its birth, down about the eleventh are certain means, for liberation from . With century. It declined in India, but still prevalent in these notions also went the conception of a soul parts of the and in Nepal and beyond of Jiva or Purusa who might continue into in and Mongolia and in the Island of Ceylon liberation. The Buddha's new spin was first to or Lanka. It spread to South-East Asia, from identify the problem of rebirth as having to do and Myanmar into Combodia, Laos, and essentially with . The fabric of life , so that by modern times Buddhism is impermanent. But, secondly, this means that became a dominant force. In the first millennium there can be no permanent soul or self; there is of Buddhist India, the predominant form was therefore no entity, there is liberation. Nirvana , which developed does not involve the persistence of the saint or in amazing directions. Much of this material, the Buddha or Tathagata. Or more strictly, since together with Tantric notions, were retained and the Buddha's analysis of life reduces things to elaborated in Tibet. Meanwhile from the first complexes of events, the very question as to century B.C. / A.D. Buddhism had begun to move whether the self exists after death is meaningless; into via the Silk Route (North of Tibet) and in due course, some Chinese-flavor developed, like the querry as to whether a flame goes north, notably Mua Yen an Chan which had their south, east or west after it goes out. Though the influence in and , where in means to liberation lies in yoga or contemplation, particular, evolved in a Japanese way. Chinese there are ethical pre-requisties. The Buddha had Philosophical Buddhism is largely based on Indian an ethical interpretation of brahmanical rituals and sources. ritual powers. The framework of this worldview was moral. The Buddhist philosophy contained three main ideas. One idea was that of rebirth or From an early time the Buddha , reincarnation. Generally, the Sramanic movements created formulas, for instance, the four noble accepted the thought that without special effort, truths analyzed the human predicament and its we are destined to continuous rebirth. The second solution in the guise of a medical formula. The idea was that nevertheless, liberation is possible human condition of suffering (dukkha) or ill force

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Orissa Review * September - October - 2005

is caused by carring; there is a cure for suffering, the form of , , and and that is the eight-fold path (the attangikamarga can be seen in the excavated sites at or magga in ), which culminates in . , Udayagiri, and Langudi Hills This formula of , parallels the of and districts. The development declaration that everything is conditioned - a view of Buddhism from mere a religious creed to ultimately formulated in the doctrine of dependent acceptable forms of mass religion like , origination, patccasamuppada (Pali) or Mahayana and , all conglomerated in pratityasamatpada (). This common the different forms of monuments and images. formula see human problems as deriving from Some scholars even identify Hinayana greed, hatred and delusion. This is akin to monuments, Mahayana images and Vajrayana ignorance but slightly different. At any rate, the Temples etc., which can be very well attested from opposites of these "sins" (lack of benevolence, these monumental remains. grasping and insight) bring about liberation. In Buddhism, it is believed that Lord These ideas and thoughts have been Buddha had declared Kalinga (ancient Orissa) knobbed in every Buddhist sites of India. All the as one of the twelve places where attainment of sites like , Bodhgaya, () perfection can be achieved. It was one of the four Ratnagiri, Lalitgiri, Langudi (Orissa) , important places possessing inexhaustible Nagarjunkonda, Amamavali () or treasures of precious substances. These four Ajanta, Ellora, Bagh, Karle (Maharastra) etc. tells precious treasures have also been referred to in the same story. The narrative stories can be found Divyavadana, which states that Pingla of Kalinga, in the form of material remains such as , Panduka of Mithila, Elepatra of and and and the images of Buddha Sarikha of would be ruling when and Boddhisattvas spread over the country. As (future Buddha) would appear as we have seen, the spark of ideas have been Buddha. Buddhist tradition also pay tribute to the transported to the countries of South-East and cultural heritage of Kalinga by admitting that after Far East Asia. India remains the epicenter. Thus, the death of Buddha, one of his tooth relics was the Buddhist sites have a great relevance to the carried to Dantapura, the capital of Kalinga where modern thought and culture. it was enshrined. The State of Orissa is literally dotted with The spark of Buddhism can be glanced hundreds of Buddhist sites. The material remains when Asoka the great Mauryan Emperor (269- such as monuments, their art and architecture, 232 BC) conquered Orissa then known as settlement pattern and other cultural remains are Kalinga in 3rd century B.C. The Kalinga war the reflections of the ancient glorious heritage. marked the turning point in the life of Asoka as Buddhist Heritage of Orissa can be well as in the . Asoka became glimpsed through the monumental remains at great champion of Buddhism. It is in Kalinga that Dhauli, Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, Udayagiri, Langudi Hill, the foundation of a great religion and culture was Kuruma, Ganiapalli, Aragarh, Boudh, Solampur, laid and Kalinga became the torchbearer of peace Khadipada, , Khiching, Achutrajpur etc. and non-violence to the whole world. The Stray Buddhist images are spread over almost all archaeological remains in this context found at parts of Orissa. But the monumental remains in Dhauli (near ) and Jaugada (Ganjam

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Orissa Review * September - October - 2005

District) in the form of major Asokan rock edicts (Stupa and Chaitya Griha), residential area with are the earliest historical monuments and are monasteries and images of numerous Buddhist Buddhist in nature and spirit. To add to this, the pantheons. Hence, the Buddha and host of other edicts at Dhauli (ancient Tosali) is distinguished Buddhist images appeals in contemporary world by sculptural forepart of an elephant coming out when traditional values are being questioned in of the rocky womb. The elephant here can be the intellectual suptism of the times. Here, the taken theriomorphically and symbolically as the Buddha images seated in various posses like representation of Buddha. Asoka is said to have Bhumisparsa , Abhaya mudra, built a monastery called Bhojakagiri near Dharmachkra pravatana mudra, taught us how Tosali (Bhubaneswar) where his brother Tissa to perfect ourselves as human beings and to make spent his last days. From the rock edicts, we can the most of life. '' - the collection of get glimpses of the benevolent work extended to 423 verses, that holds the kernal of Buddha's the people of Kalinga and the communication teachings, reminds here that "Our life is shaped system developed during that time such as roads, by our mind; we become what we think." The rest houses, mile stones, wells etc. There are also image of Buddha, mostly found in Orissa, seated some other Asokan remains like the broken pillar in Bhumispraja mudra (Earth touching pose) as and Bell capital found at Bhubaneswar. serene meditator, un-disturbed by the ebb and flow of history, is at once a comforting and Buddhist vestiges from 3rd century BC compelling one. The reflection is that we are largely to the time of Gangas and Gajapatis (14th - 15th responsible for our own misery, because we century A.D.) can be seen from the excavated cannot control our mental states, and the remains at Lalitgiri, Udayagiri, Ratnagiri and recognition that we can transform our lives by our Langudi Hill. The vastness of the monuments own effort, instead of waiting for help from discovered / excavated at these places are the external sources and authority. The name of this treasure houses for the tourists which form the settlement stand revealed from a monastic sealing Nirvan Trail or Diamond Triangle. depicting "Sri Chandraditya Vihara Samagra Lalitgiri in forms a part Arya Vikshu Sangha". This site can be of Buddhist Heritage triangle and is one of the comparable to other Buddhist sites like earliest and the most important Buddhist site in (M.P) and Saranath (UP). Orissa. The Buddhist remains at Lalitgiri are Ratnagiri, another big Buddhist site protected monument of Archaeological Survey situated only 20 km. away from the above site is of India. The extensive mounds at Lalitgiri spread located midway between the rivers Brahmani and over on the hills of Lands, Parabhadi and Birupa in the present district of Jajpur, where the Sukhuapara were taken up for excavation during archaeological excavation was carried out during the year 1985-92. The excavation revealed the the year 1958 to 1962. Stratigraphically, the cultural sequence of the site to be from 3rd century earliest strata has been dated to fifth century A.D. B.C. to 14th century A.D. The earlier starta (D. Mitra, 1981) on the basis of inscriptional revealed the Mauryan inscriptions on the pot evidences. This site witnessed a phenomenal sherds and the main stupa and Apsidal growth in religion, art and architecture till 13th - (Chaitya Griha). This site has all the pre-requisities 14th century A.D. Here we find the Stupa area for the Buddist settlement i.e. worshipping place and two well-built monasteries also. Besides these

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Orissa Review * September - October - 2005

a large number of stone sculptures a few bronzes, is still under operation. The central stupa with including inscribed tablets, terracotta seals and Dhyani Buddhas is unique in this centre. The sealings have been discovered here. The central stupa with Dhyani Buddhas gives us an inscription of the ceiling has given the reading "Sri idea of Buddhist universe. The monastery Ratnagiri Arya Vikshu Sangha." buildings reflects art motifs of 7th-8th century A.D. In the beginning, this was a great Buddhist center Numerous clay tablets, seals and sealings were of Mahayana form of Buddhism. Towards 8th- discovered. This site was also functioning as nerve A.D. Vajrayana form of Buddhism centre for trade and commerce during the played an important role. Pag Sam Jan Zang, a medieval period. Tibetan source, indicate that Ratnagiri Langudi, another beautiful Buddhist site establishment had played a key role in the is discovered recently, near Salipur village within evolution of Kalachakrayana during 10th-11th . The hillock is a cluster of low-lying century A.D. which is evidenced from numerous hills and surrounded by other Buddhist sites like, monolithic votive stupas with reliefs of divinities Vajragiri, Radhanagar and Kaima Hills. This site of Vajrayana Pantheons. Here, the Buddha seated seems to be very early and an inscription referring in earth touching pose flanked by two the name of Asoka was also discovered. Another Boddhisattvas, in the shrine chamber of inscription referring Puspagiri also was discovered monastery, perhaps sends the message of service here Puspagiri one of the great centers of learning to humanity as contained in Pali text - "Caratha, in Orissa by 7th century A.D. as referred by Bikkhav easikam bahujana hitaya, bahujana Hiuen Tsang the Chinese Traveller who visited sukhaya, attaya hitaya ca manussanam Orissa in 639 A.D. This centre of learning is one bhikkus, "Go on with your rounds everywhere of renowned places of early medieval Buddhism for the purpose of welfare of many; happiness of like that of Ajanta or caves. Scholars many and for the prosperity of many and well say that the inscription may be dated to pre- being of gods and mankind." This site can be period. comparable to any major Buddhist site of India like Vikramsila or Nalanda. The monumental remains such as a huge stupa of early period, rock-cut Dhyani Buddhas Udayagiri, or some Buddhist triangle on and other images together with monastic areas Birupa Valley is located on the midway between were also traced. The unique findings of this site Lalitgiri and Ratnagiri in the district of Jajpur. This include terracotta Buddha images. The site is still is an important and a major Buddhist site which under excavation. has yielded a magnificent complex with a huge stupa in the middle. The cultural sequence of this There are other sites like Kuruma in site date back to 7th-8th century A.D. The name District and Ganiapalli in District which of this settlement has been revealed as have good many Budhist monumental remains. Madhavpur Mahavihara from an inscription. This The monastic remains of these sites are unique. settlement is an important center of Vajrayana. The Muchalinda Buddha images from Ganipalli The sculptural wealth of this site is overwhelming. are very beautiful and important so far Buddhist So far are exposed three monastery complexes studies is conquered. upto 2002 A.D. Still there exist more monastery Therefore from existence of all these complexes. However, archaeological excavation material remains it is clear that Mahayana

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Buddhism flowered here and again mingled with References : other contemporary religious faiths, such as 1. T.W. Rhys Davids, The Sacred Books of East, Saivism, Vaisnivism, Saktism and finally in Oxford, 1881. Jagannatha Cult. The image of Boddhisattva, who 2. D. Mitra, Buddhist Monuments, Calcutta, 1981. is a Buddha on the way, conducts himself with 3. R.L. Mitra, Antiquities of Orissa, Calcutta, 1963. love, wisdom and concern for others through many 4. A. Gosh (Ed.), An Encyclopedia of Indian lives until he stands at the threshold of Nirvana. Religions. And the message that radiates from the Buddhist 5. B.T. Bhattacharya - Buddhist Iconography, sites is "Hatred never ceases through hatred in Calcutta, 1968. this world; through love alone they ceases. This 6. N.K. Sahu, Buddhism in Orissa, 1958. is the eternal law." Thus the message goes through 7. S.K. Patnaik, Buddhist Heritage of Orissa, tourism that by a little bit of sharing and love, we Bhubaneswar, 2000. can indeed make this world a better place for all 8. B. Bandhopadhya, Buddhist Centres of Orissa, New Delhi, 2004. of us. Further, the Buddha images seated in 9. L.M. Josi, Studies in Buddhistic Culture of India, Bhumisparsa Mudra found almost from every sites Delhi, 1977. of Orissa reminds the eternal truth of Nirvana like 10. N. Dutta, Buddhist Sects of India, Calcutta, 1977. Mukti of Vaisnav cult or moksha that radiates from Odissi dance. The Nirvan Trail once somebody visits, get to know all the faiths and philosophies The Author belongs to Orissa Tourism Service. He is the Buddhist World. an Archaeologist, working on Buddhist Heritage of Orissa and lives at E-63, Srikhetra Colony, Puri.

His Excellency the Governor of Orissa Shri Rameshwar Thakur appreciating the achievements of Master Varun Mohapatra, a young Karate Master at Rajbhawan, Bhubaneswar on 3.9.2005.

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