Island Heritage Service Historic Environment Action Plan Brading Haven and Bembridge Isle Isle of Wight County Archaeology and Historic Environment Service October 2008 01983 823810 archaeology @iow.gov.uk Iwight.com HEAP for Brading Haven and Bembridge Isle INTRODUCTION The Brading Haven and Bembridge Isle HEAP Area comprises land surrounding the former Brading Haven together with the reclaimed land of the haven itself. It includes the settlement of Brading in the west of the Area, St Helens and Nettlestone in the north, Bembridge in the east and Yaverland in the south. Part of this Area, including Bembridge and Yaverland, was for much of its history an island in its own right, cut off from the Wight mainland by arms of the sea at high tide and muddy gulfs at low tide, hence its former name of ‘Bembridge Isle’. A wide area of sea flowed up between Bembridge and St. Helens, past Brading and Yaverland and then joined up with another branch of sea that entered through a gap between Yaverland and Sandown where the boating lake is today. The area between Yaverland and Sandown became known as the ‘Sandown Level’ after it had been drained. A further branch struck off west towards Alverstone. These tidal inlets effectively cut Bembridge Isle off from the rest of the Island until the construction of a causeway at Yar Bridge in the Middle Ages. However, Brading Haven remained as a wide tidal inlet at the mouth of the Eastern Yar River, extending as far inland as Brading, until it was drained between 1878 and 1880, leaving the much smaller area of Bembridge Harbour (Martin 2004a). The Brading Haven and Bembridge Isle Area has been defined largely by its relationship to the former haven. Brading lies to the west of the haven but historically had access to sea-borne trade via the haven. All other parts of the Area lie to the east of the two former tidal seaways penetrating inland from Bembridge and Sandown. Like Freshwater Isle at the other end of the Isle of Wight, this HEAP Area is distinct from the Northern Lowlands to which both Areas are adjacent. Much of the Brading Haven and Bembridge Isle Area lies to the north of the East Wight Chalk Ridge but it does not contain any deposits of the heavy, easily waterlogged Hamstead clays that characterise the Northern Lowlands. The existence of more easily worked soils in much of the Brading Haven and Bembridge Isle Area undoubtedly influenced the development of its historic landscape. However, there are also distinct variations in historic character within this Area and these are identified below. The most significant features of the historic landscape within this HEAP Area are field patterns, settlement patterns and grazing marsh. This document considers the most important forces for change and management issues affecting this Area. It also identifies actions listed in the Isle of Wight HEAP Aims, Objectives and Actions that are particularly relevant to the Area. ANALYSIS AND ASSESSMENT Location, Geology and Topography • Area comprises land around the former tidal seaways penetrating inland from Bembridge and Sandown. It includes Brading, St Helens, Priory Bay and Nettlestone, the reclaimed land of the Haven itself, Bembridge, Yaverland and the Sandown Level. • To north of former Brading Haven the geology comprises Bembridge Marls, capped in many places by superficial gravel depoits. o Reclaimed grazing marsh of former Brading Haven is Grade 4 agricultural land on alluvial deposits. o The settlement of Brading lies between the downs and the Eastern Yar River, which occupies a gap in the East Wight Chalk Ridge. o In the Bembridge area the geology is mainly Bembridge Marls capped by Marine Gravel in the east. Narrow bands of Reading Beds, London Clay, Bracklesham Group deposits and Osborne and Headon Beds lie immediately to the north of the East Wight Chalk Ridge. 1 Iwight.com o To the south of the East Wight Chalk Ridge a small area of Ferruginous Sands around Yaverland provide a light, sandy soil. o There are Wealden deposits on the outskirts of Sandown but these deposits are overlain by Alluvium in the area of the Sandown Level, which occupies an ancient sea channel. • Main watercourse is Eastern Yar, which flows in an artificial channel through reclaimed land of Brading Haven although the course of the original river channel is still evident. • Land rises gently from sea level within reclaimed Haven area to about 50m OD north of St Helens and to a similar height below Bembridge Down. • The Sandown Level is at sea level. To the east of the Level the land rises gently northward from Sandown to Yaverland, then more steeply to boundary with East Wight Chalk Ridge . • Coast defines eastern side of this HEAP Area which includes Foreland, the eastern extremity of the Isle of Wight. o Sandy beach at Priory Bay backed by eroding coastal slope from Hoarstone Point to sand dunes of St Helens Duver. o Low cliffs and rocky foreshore around Bembridge Ledges including Foreland, leading to Whitecliff Bay north of Culver Down. o Eroding sandstone cliffs to south of Culver Down. Defining Attributes and Principal HEAP Types • Distinct zones of historic landscape character within this Area. These comprise Brading environs, St Helens and Nettlestone environs, reclaimed land of former Brading Haven, Bembridge environs and Yaverland environs. o Attributes of the different zones are considered under ‘Principal Historical Processes’. • Fields to north of St Helens are mainly of small-medium size. Large-irregular fields between River Yar and Bembridge Down with smaller fields to the west of Bembridge. Medium irregular fields in Yaverland Area. • Reclaimed grazing marsh of former Brading Haven and Sandown Level occupies a large proportion of this HEAP Area. • The sand dunes of St Helens Duver form a partial bar across the mouth of Bembridge Harbour, projecting southward from St Helens Seamark (the tower of the former parish church). • Limited amount of ancient and secondary woodland around Bembridge, to north of Yaverland and on cliff slope from Hoarstone Point to St Helens. • Settlements of Anglo-Saxon or medieval origin at Brading, St Helens and Yaverland and some individual farmsteads of early origin o Nettlestone has ancient origins as a small manorial settlement but the present village contains mainly 20 th century buildings. o Bembridge village contains mainly 19 th and 20 th century buildings. o Later 20 th Century development around St Helens, to south of Brading, and to south of Yaverland. • Gardens and small parks of 19 th and 20 th century date in Bembridge area and the remains of a larger landscape park at Priory Bay (IWGT records). • Holiday parks at Priory Bay, Bembridge, Whitecliff Bay and Yaverland. • Boundaries of the Area are defined by the A3055 and B3329 between Brading and Sandown. o Other significant routes are the B3330 from the A3055 to St Helens and Nettlestone, and the B3395 from Brading to Bembridge and St Helens with a spur running through Yaverland to Sandown. • Long distance coastal path runs through this Area from Nettlestone to Sandown. o Bembridge & Yar River River Trail runs from Brading to Bembridge. • Railway from Ryde to Shanklin runs through this Area, with station at Brading. • Bembridge Airport, opened in 1920, supports general aviation activities and recreational flights but there are no timetabled services. 2 Iwight.com Principal Historical Processes • Brading Haven is likely to have been used in Roman times for transport of goods and materials to and from Brading Roman Villa. • Area fell within the Anglo-Saxon mother parish of Brading, out of which the parishes of St Helens and Yaverland were taken in medieval times (Margham 2000). • Brading Church is thought to be on an Anglo-Saxon site but earliest surviving work is 12 th century. Yaverland Church also has 12 th century work. • Manors recorded in Domesday Book at Brading, Etharin (St Helens), Nettlestone, Hardley, Orham and Woolverton (Bembridge Area), Sandown, and Yaverland. • Medieval town of Brading was established at head of Brading Haven, probably by local Lord of Whitefield Manor in late 12 th century. o Haven was navigable as far as quay to east of High Street, allowing trade with mainland. o Town did not prosper in late medieval and post-medieval times and remained very small, even after 1864 when a railway link with Ryde, Sandown and Shanklin was established. • St Helens Priory was established in 12 th century. St Helens Church was built as part of priory but was used as parish church before its replacement. o Medieval settlement of St Helens was established on north side of Brading Haven and by 1793 had the form of a regular- row plan with a green . o 14 th century taxation records indicate relative importance of St Helens. o St Helens is thought to be the point at which the French landed in 1340 but there are no records of extensive destruction (Edwards 1999, 3). o It has been suggested that St Helens served as the port for the town of Brading (Page ed. 1912, 189). It is recorded as a port in 14 th century and 16 th century documents. o From the 16 th to 18 th centuries St Helens was favoured for victualling ships, including Naval fleets • The regular open-field system laid out around St Helens in Middle Ages appears to have been subject to piecemeal enclosure in post-medieval times, resulting in the small strip fields shown on the OS 1793 map. o In contrast, fields to the north of the village, owned by St Helens Priory until the Dissolution, appear to have been enclosed into large closes in Tudor times, possibly occupying the same areas as earlier open fields.