North WalesClassics North to selected routes onthemountain owner. ACIPcatalogue recordisavailablefromthe sustainable forestsandproducedaccordingtoISO Cover: SarahBurmesteronOneStepinthe electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise electronic, mechanical,photocopyingorotherwise Gates (E1)- page93-onDinas Cromlech. Distributed byCordee(www.cordee.co.uk) without priorwrittenpermissionofthecopyright may bereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem, We onlyusepapermadefromwoodfibre Cemetery This Page:MartinChester onCemetery All rights reserved. Nopartofthispublication All rightsreserved. 14001 environmentalmanagementstandard. or transmittedinanyformbymeans, Clouds (VS)-page37atTremadog. Printed byJohnBrowns,Nottingham Published byROCKFAX April2010 All RockfaxbooksareprintedintheUK. Chris CraggsandStephenHorne Additional textbyAlanJames, A climbing guidebook © UKClimbingLimited2010 crags ofNorth ISBN 978-1-873341-17-9 Jack Geldard www.ukclimbing.com All mapsbyROCKFAX. www.rockfax.com Photo: JackGeldard Photo: Mark Reeves British Library 1 Welsh Winter Betws y Coed Ogwen Lliwedd Cloggy Cwm Silyn Tremadog North Wales Classics

Tremadog North Wales has one of the most concentrated selections of adven- turous climbing in the whole of Europe. Almost every valley is flanked by walls of superb quality and well-featured rock giving a lifetime's worth of routes at all grades and all within an hour radius.

Cwm Silyn From the mountain-magnificence of Cloggy, to the sun-kissed single pitch routes on the Upper Tier of Tremadog, North Wales can cater for almost every climber's need. Many of the routes documented in this book are historically significant; major milestones in British rock climbing. The cliffs of North Wales have long called out to climbers, and Cloggy that magical attraction hasn't waned.

The Llanberis Pass is perhaps the most famous rock climbing valley in Britain, and for good reason. The routes there are fantastic, gener- Llanberis ally easy to access and have picturesque views. Its bigger sister; the Ogwen valley, is a low-grade paradise with many easier-angled cliffs that offer good protection and ample belay stances with a wild and commanding outlook across to the Carneddau. Lliwedd But it isn't all Llanberis and Ogwen. In this book you will find a spread of routes, at a variety of grades at the best venues, but we have also picked a few cliffs that you might not have heard of. Some low-lying outcrops such as Clogwyn y Cyrau might not rival the Idwal Slabs Ogwen for long mountain routes, but they offer another weather option, are close to the popular village of Betws y Coed, and could be just the ticket for a couple of hours of fun on the way

Carneddau back down the A5.

We have worked hard to keep the guide in a pocket-sized format, crow-baring in as much

Betws y Coed info as possible, making the photographs full page in size and crystal clear. North Wales Classics is the Tardis of the climbing world and it contains all the info you need in a Welsh Winter size that is useful, meaning it won't weigh you down on Mick Ryan on Pinnacle Rib Route (VDiff) - page 123 - East Face of that balancy crux. . Photo: Alan James 2 Cwm Silyn Advertiser Index General Index andMap. Route Index Welsh Winter Betws yCoed. . Carneddau Ogwen. Lliwedd. Llanberis Pass South Llanberis Pass North Du'r Arddu Clogwyn Tremadog Acknowledgements. Grades Gear Introduction Pubs andShops. Shops, Walls andGuides Topo andSymbol Key. Rescue, AccessMountain Welsh Winter. Shadrach (VS)- page 41-Bwlchy Moch atTremadog. Photo: JackGeldard A climbercommits tothetricky movethatgivesaccess totheuppergroove of ...... 208 208 204 178 168 152 108 116 48 94 72 54 18 16 14 14 12 10 6 8 4 2

North WalesClassics North 3 Welsh Winter Betws y Coed Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd Llanberis Cloggy Cwm Silyn Tremadog North Wales Classics Welsh Winter

Tremadog Winter climbing in Wales has Grades suffered in recent years. Not from All climbing grades are subjec- a lack of ice, but from a lack of tive and none more so than winter information. Not any more. This grades. With the highly fickle condi- winter section covers the best and tions found in Wales, the routes can Cwm Silyn most reliable venues including be much harder than their grade. the classic gullies of the Trinity Thaw conditions, dangerously thin Face and the rarely-formed but ice, unconsolidated snow, it is all absolutely essential ice climbs of out there. Be prepared for a tough Cascade and Central Icefall Direct

Cloggy time, but if you do find a route that in the Llanberis Pass. is in perfect condition and feels easy for the grade, don't complain - take Situated geographically close- the tick! together are the major ice lines of Llanberis Grade Definitions and the modern mixed More on - www.mcofs.org.uk climbs of Clogwyn Du. This partic- Simple snow slopes with possible I ular section of the offers a corniced exits. range of winter styles and grades, Gullies with high-angled snow and II corniced exits. Easy buttress routes. Lliwedd from perfect ice gullies to desperate Gullies with steeper ice or mixed cutting-edge mixed challenges. Are III sections. Moderate buttress climbs. your crampons sharp? Steep gullies or near-vertical icefalls. IV Technical buttress routes. Vertical ice. Steep and technical Not all of Wales' winter routes are V Ogwen buttress routes. short and easy to access. The huge Long sustained vertical ice routes. cliff of The Black Ladders rivals VI Vertical and technical buttress routes. anything in Scotland and is home Thin vertical ice routes, fragile ice. VII Very steep and technical buttresses.

Carneddau to long and committing adventures Very serious overhanging ice. that give a full and tiring day out. VIII Sustained, steep, technical buttresses. The routes on this white citadel are Extremely technical and sustained IX utterly brilliant. routes on buttresses.

Betws y Coed Technical Grades - The technical Photographed here in full colour grade is usually the same numer- and full winter garb, the routes can ical value as the main grade. A be seen for what they are; simply higher technical grade indicates a unmissable.

Welsh Winter route with a short technical section only, a lower technical grade indi- cates a route with easier climbing but poor belays and protection.

4 Welsh Winter (VI) -page194 -inCwmIdwal. Photo:JackGeldard Jon Ratcliffe onthefirstpitchof TheDevil's Appendix North WalesClassics North 5 Welsh Winter Betws y Coed Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd Llanberis Cloggy Cwm Silyn Tremadog North Wales Classics Access

Tremadog Mountain Rescue In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: Dial 999 and ask for ‘POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE’ North Wales Mountain Rescue Association - www.nwmra.org Cwm Silyn Access None of the crags in this guidebook have major access problems, and all that is required to ensure continued freedom of access is a responsible approach. Otherwise the freedoms already won could be so easily lost.

Cloggy This includes making sure that your car is parked sensibly, that you don't climb over fences or walls, and that you stick to footpaths where possible. If you do encounter access problems, contact the BMC The British Mountaineering Council, 177-179 Burton Road,

Llanberis West Didsbury, Manchester, M20 2BB - www.thebmc.co.uk

Guidebooks The Climbers' Club has

Lliwedd published a number of guides to areas in North Wales which give full coverage of all the routes on the crags in this book, Ogwen plus many more crags as well. If you enoyed the routes in this book then take a look at the following Carneddau books: Llanberis (2004), Ogwen and Carneddau (1993), Lliwedd (1998), Cwm Silyn (2003), Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (2004) and Tremadog (2000). North Wales Rock (2009) published by Ground Up, offers a selected Betws y Coed guide to the major crags.

Guidebook Footnote - The inclusion of a climbing area in this book does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt Welsh Winter a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. 6 Climbing, Mountaineering & Skiing Guiding, Training & Advice High UK, Alps & Worldwide Mountain Guides

www.highmountainguides.com [email protected] UK phone: + 44 (0) 7917773995 France phone: + 33 (0) 670819250 North Wales Classics Symbol and Topo Key

Tremadog Route Symbols Crag Symbols

1 star is good, 2 star is superb, Angle of the approach walk to the 3 3 star is a classic. S crag with approximate time. Cwm Silyn Technical climbing requiring good Approximate time that the crag is balance and technique, or complex in the sun (when it is shining!) t and tricky moves. R

Sustained climbing; either lots of A crag offering some shelter from

Cloggy s hard moves or pumpy climbing. * bad weather. Deserted - A quiet crag which Fingery climbing with significant may have a long walk-in and/or small holds on the hard sections. f less good routes.

Llanberis Quiet - Less popular sections on Fluttery climbing with big fall major crags, or good buttresses potential and scary run-outs. h with long walk-ins. Busy - Places you will seldom be Graunchy climbing. Either wide alone, especially at weekends.

Lliwedd cracks or thrutchy moves. k Good routes and easy access. Crowded - The most popular Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock sections of the best crags. Classic or long moves off small holds. p routes and lots of people. Ogwen Descent Scale Building Abseil point Belay 'A' Road Track Camping Carneddau P

Unlisted route Village/town GPS Coordinates of parking

Betws y Coed Rocky Path bluffs

Crag Welsh Winter

1 3 2 Summit Train Variation Approach 8

North Wales Classics Gear

Tremadog On the vast majority of routes in this guide there is no fixed gear, so everything you need to protect your ascent will have to be carried up the crag. This style of climbing is known as 'traditional' or 'trad' climbing.

Runners Cwm Silyn A typical multi-pitch rack will be based around a double set of wires. These are your staple diet and should be supplemented with extras such as camming devices and hexes for wider cracks and micro-wires for some of the harder routes. It is also worth having a good selection of

Cloggy extenders or 'quickdraws' of varying lengths, and several 240cm slings. Many of the routes in this book weave around, and being able to extend your gear to avoid rope drag is essential. You'll also need a nut key to help remove stubborn pieces when your leader has put them in a little too

Llanberis well. Something you won't need is a guidebook pouch, as this book fits in your pocket!

Ropes A pair of double ropes is needed for most of the routes in this book; 50m Lliwedd or 60m is the normal length. Some of the shorter single-pitch routes at areas such as the Upper Tier of Tremadog can be climbed on a single rope, but double ropes make multi-pitch climbing easier, reducing rope drag and giving you the option to abseil a full rope-length if needed. Ogwen Clothing Any day out in the mountains of Wales can be a cold and unpleasant experience if you don't have the correct clothing. Waterproofs, warm mid-

Carneddau layers and hats and gloves are worthwhile additions to a pack and might make that 2 hour belay stint a little less painful. Having plenty of warm clothes to hand can be a lifesaver in the event of an accident too.

Betws y Coed Further Reading The Rockfax book TradCLIMBING+ covers all aspects of traditional climbing including starting out, through gear, ropework and techniques, and on to

Welsh Winter more advanced skills like the mind and training. It is available from most outdoor retailers or direct from the online Rockfax shop - www.rockfax.com

10

North Wales Classics Grades

Tremadog Sport Classic Route Page British Trad Grade Grade UIAA USA z Little Tryfan Arete ...... 120 1 Mod I 5.1 z Arete and Slab ...... 111 Moderate Diff 2 II 5.2 z Difficult VDiff

Cwm Silyn Amphitheatre Buttress . . . . 160 2+ III 5.3 Very z Flying Buttress ...... 91 Difficult HVD 3- III+ 5.4 Hard Very z Crackstone Rib ...... 87 Difficult 3 IV 5.5 BOLD S 4a z Tennis Shoe...... 143 Severe 3+ IV+ 5.6 HS BOLD Hard Severe z Grey Slab...... 141 4b 4a 4 V- 5.7

Cloggy SAFE VS z Hard Severe One Step in the Clouds . . . . . 37 5a BOLD 4+ V 5.8 z SAFE 4b Diagonal ...... 97 HVS 5 V+ 5.9 BOLD Hard Very Severe z Fratricide Wall ...... 174 5a 5c 5+ VI- 5.10a SAFE z Cemetry Gates...... 93 E1 6a Llanberis 5c BOLD VI 5.10b z Cenotaph Corner ...... 93 SAFE 5a 6a+ VI+ 5.10c E2 BOLD z 6a Vector ...... 39 5b 6b VII- 5.10d SAFE z Left Wall ...... 93 E3 6b+ VII 5.11a 6a BOLD z West Buttress Eliminate . . . . 69 SAFE 5c 6c VII+ 5.11b Lliwedd z Great Wall ...... 60 E4 6c+ VIII- 5.11c 6b BOLD z Right Wall ...... 93 SAFE 6a 7a VIII 5.11d E5 z Cock Block...... 83 6c 7a+ VIII+ 5.12a SAFE 7b IX- 5.12b Ogwen British 'Trad' Grade Orange Routes - Hard Severe to 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, HVS inclusive. General ticking Sev, HS, VS, HVS, E1 and up). routes for those with more experi-

Carneddau How well-protected a route is, how ence, a large range of excellent sustained and a general indication of routes is available across this band. the level of difficulty of the whole route. 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, ..... Red Routes - E1 to E3 inclusive.

Betws y Coed to 7b).The difficulty of the hardest Routes for the experienced and single move. keen climber. A small selection of the best of these routes are Colour Coding included in this book for you to aspire to. Welsh Winter The routes are all given a colour- code corresponding to a grade band. Green Routes - Everything at Black Routes - E4 and above. grade Severe and under. The hard stuff! There aren't many Good routes to start on. of these in this book. 12

North Wales Classics Shops, Walls, Guides, Cafes and Pubs

Tremadog Shops Joe Browns - Llanberis, . See page 9. V12 - Llanberis. Ultimate Outdoors - Betws y Coed. Cotswolds - Betws y Coed.

Cwm Silyn The Great Arete - Bangor.

Walls Beacon Climbing Centre - See page 13. Plas y Brenin - See opposite. Cloggy Guides ExpeditionGuide.com - See inside front cover. Climb Mountains - See inside back cover. High Mountain Guides - See page 7. Llanberis Plas y Brenin - See opposite. Sea 2 Summit - See page 17.

Cafes

Lliwedd North Wales has a great number of climbers and a high annual rainfall, which means that there are a fair few cafes worth visiting. Pete's Eats, Llanberis - Well known in this part of the world. A big menu of the old school. You most likely won't leave hungry. Photo above. Canban, Brynrefail - A modern cafe/restaurant offering great food and coffees. Pinnacle Cafe, Capel Curig - Found in the Pinnacle shop. All day breakfasts. Ogwen Eric's Cafe - Hard to miss if you're off to Tremadog. The Big Rock Cafe, - On the main street of Porthmadog near to Tremadog. Home made cakes and good coffee. Snack Bar - Next to the pay and display car park at Ogwen Carneddau Cottage, this snack bar gives hot and cold drinks and snacks.

Pubs Good pubs are unfortunately quite hard to come by in North Wales, but here are a

Betws y Coed selection of the better offerings: Vaynol Arms, Nant Peris - Opposite the campsite. Good beers and a pool table! Plas y Brenin - The excellent bar in the centre is open in the evenings and has local ales, great food and a stunning lake view. Glyntwrog, - On the corner on the way to the Beacon Climbing Centre,

Welsh Winter this pub serves good food and good beer. Pen y Gwryd Hotel, Llanberis Pass - On the far side of the pass from Llanberis, this old hotel has an excellent bar with log fires and a mountaineering history. Bryn Tyrch, Capel Curig - On the main from Capel to Betws. Does good beer and food and is popular with walkers. 14

North Wales Classics Acknowledgements Writing this book has taken me Photo:James McHaffie Tremadog to corners of North Wales that I may otherwise have missed and has allowed me to enjoy literally hundreds of routes (over a hundred

Cwm Silyn in a fortnight during one summer!).

Countless people have helped me to write this book and listing them all would be impossible. I have

Cloggy no-doubt left out some people who really should be here, apologies for that!

Thanks firstly go to Alan James Llanberis and Mick Ryan for all their help and support. Without both of them there would be no book. I'd also like to thank Ray Wood for his help with route info and also his superb photographs. Likewise a thank you to Mark Reeves.

Lliwedd A big thank you to Sophie Evitt is in order for her invaluable help on the Carneddau and Tryfan sections, and also to James McHaffie for his attempts at helping with route info at Tremadog. I'd also like to thank Pete Robins for his last minute proofing and corrections.

Ogwen Extra thanks go to the king of the Rockfax guidebooks; Chris Craggs, for his last minute additions and editing and the same also go to the new kid on the Rockfax block; Stephen Horne, for his work on the maps and text.

Carneddau All the contributing photographers need to be thanked, especially Sean Kelly for his wonderful shot of the Trinity Face and Dave Dear for his shot of the Idwal Slabs.

Betws y Coed Thanks to all the people who have let me photograph them over the last couple of years and thanks to everyone who belayed me or let me pass as I was soloing in my mission to document the route descriptions. A big thank you to Ian Wilson and Sarah Burmester for some great days out over the last winter and for agreeing to do one last route, just as the sun was setting. Welsh Winter Lastly, I'd like to thank John Yates for his help, advice and encouragement in all literary matters over the last few years. John, I owe you a lot.

Jack Geldard, March 2010 16

97 87 21 77 45 59 34 63 39 51 60 83 97 37 59 97 121 158 120 196 120 126 121 120 126 114 144 131 147 191 135 193 121 185 143 176 183 173 195 193 195 194 191 194 147 193 ...... 5 33 25 178 193 ...... Crack 4 ...... Cracked Arete ...... Cracking Up Crack 3 ...... Cracks, The Crazy Horse Crack 2 ...... Crackstone Rib ...... Creagh Dhu Wall Crown of Thorns Demetreus Daurigol The Death Wisher, ...... Chimney Crack Christmas Curry/Micah Crack 1 ...... Cream ...... Crosscut ...... Crucible Appendix, The . . . . . Devil’s Curtain, The Daddy Cool ...... Chimney Climb Cockblock Continuation Crack ...... The ...... Corner, Curving Crack ...... Charity Chasm Route ...... Chicane Gully Chequered Wall Chic Central Route 2 Central ...... Slab Route . . . Central ...... Trinity Central Devil’s Filthbag, The ...... Devil’s Kitchen, The Devil’s Direct Route (Dinas Mot) ...... Devil’s Pasture Devil’s Devil’s Cellar, The ...... Cellar, Devil’s Diadic ...... Diagonal Dinas Mot Diagonal Route (Idwal) Diglyph ...... Staircase Devil’s Devil’s Pipes ...... Devil’s VS IX HS S HS HS E4 E1 VI E5 HVS VI I/II IV III IV HVS V V * Diff * Diff * Diff * S * Mod * Mod * E2 * S * HVS * VDiff * VS * Diff * VS * HVS * HVS ** E3 ** E3 ** E3 ** E2 ** E2 ** IV ** VS ** VDiff ** VDiff ** III ** V ** E1 *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ***

*** ***

*** ***

*** ***

*** *** *** ***

25 77 46 67 83 41 77 70 67 83 99 93 67 93 64 27 167 126 114 183 183 190 196 131 172 167 186 151 143 157 165 132 147 104 199 183 131 113 164 111 124 177 159 161 Page ...... 1 57 180 109 155 161 Photo ......

Cadwaladr Canol Boot Crack Bovero Brant ...... Bulging Wall Cascade Cascade Right-hand . . . . Blender Head Bloody Slab Bochlwyd Eliminate 1 Bombers Wall . Boo Boo Left-hand ...... The ...... Boulder, Brant Direct Broadsword Brothers, The ...... Cave Gully Central Route ...... Black Wall . Boldest, The ...... Cemetery Gates Central Ridge Central Route ...... Alpha . Black Spring ...... Central Rib ...... Amphitheatre Buttress Amphitheatre Arete Climb ...... Arete, The ...... Aura Wall/ Avalanche/Red Continuation . Longland’s Bent ...... Biceps Wall Black Cleft, The Black Gates, The ...... Cenotaph Corner Central Icefall Direct ...... Agrippa Arete and Slab Central Gully ...... Axe, The ...... Barbarian . . . Bastion ...... Belle Vue Route

V E1 HVS III E4 E1

VDiff E2 E1 VI Route Index Route E4

* HVS * VS * HS * HS * Diff * VS * HS * VS * S * Diff * S * VDiff * Diff

** E3 ** E1 ** E2 ** V ** VII ** E3 ** HVS ** E2 ** III ** E2 ** S ** HVS ** VDiff ** S ** VS ** E2 ** E1 ** III ** E1 ** VS

*** *** Stars Grade *** *** *** *** ***

*** *** *** ***

204 Tremadog Cwm Silyn Cloggy Llanberis Lliwedd Ogwen Carneddau Betws y Coed Welsh Winter

***

*** ***

*** *** *** ***

*** *** *** *** *** *** ***

*** Stars Grade *** ** VDiff ** E2 ** VS ** III ** HVS ** V ** E2 ** VS ** VDiff ** E1 ** E2 ** E1 ** III ** HVS ** E3 ** S ** VS * E2 * VS * HS * VDiff * S * S * VS * S * E2 * S * HVS * IV E2 E1 VII VDiff HVS HS E4 VS HVS VDiff HVS E2 HVS VII E4 VDiff Route Extraction . Excalibur Eliminate Start Falcon . Faith . Erosion GrooveDirect El Mancho Direct Route(GlyderFach). Direct Route(Milestone) Gambit Climb,The. Fang, The. Falling BlockCrack. Druid Route Fallen BlockCrack Eastern Gully Dives/Better Things Direct Route,The(idwal). Direct Route(Cyrau) Gamma . Gallipoli Fingerlicker . Ferdinand . Grim Wall . . Grey Slab Gashed Crag. Fratricide Wall Flying Buttress. First Slip. First Amendment Gawain Direct. Great BowCombination. Grasper, The. Five PitchRoute. Grim Wall Direct . Grey Arete Flanders Gettysburg Great Wall . Great Gully. Get Close Geireagle Grooved Arete Groove Above . Grimmett, The Grecian 2000 ...... Photo . 168 116 . . Page 163 170 196 128 133 104 144 199 170 135 200 103 174 143 141 132 114 123 200 141 163 136 167 124 163 131 190 185 147 89 37 29 91 37 22 83 27 41 91 42 69 32 45 41 60

*** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ***

*** *** *** *** *** ** S ** I/II ** E1 ** HS ** VDiff ** E1 ** E1 ** E2 ** VDiff ** E4 ** HVS ** E2 ** HVS ** E1 ** III ** VS ** VDiff ** S * II/III * VS * E1 * S * VS * HS * VS * IV * E2 * VDiff * VS * HVS * VS E1 Diff VS IV E2 VS E2 E9 E1 E1 HS HS VS III VS Long Climb Direct Llithrig Little Tryfan Arete. . Little Gully Lion Lightning Visit Left-hand Trinity . Left-hand Branch Leg Slip Left Wall . Hawks NestArete. Jingling Wall . Jelly Roll Indian Face,The. Hope . Hollow Men,The Hawks NestButtress Hangover Gwyndion . Grooves, The K .MA Javelin Buttress Javelin Blade Jacob’s Media Ivy Sepulchre. Icefall GullyLeft-hand Hywel Dda Horned CragRoute Hand Traverse, The Hail Bebe Gwynhyfryd Kaisergebirge Wall . Jabberwocky Lazarus . Kirkus Direct(Ogof). WallKarwendel Left Edge(Cloggy). Lavaredo Ladies’ Gully. Laddie’s Gully. Knee Cap Kirkus’s Route(Lloer) Kirkus Route(Ogof). Left Edge(Filliast) Kirkus’s ClimbDirect(Oen) . . .

...... Route Index ...... 148 75 . . . 173 174 185 196 120 185 151 136 136 107 136 203 147 113 147 173 111 172 143 167 170 156 174 159 147 176 186 186 59 87 42 93 60 85 60 65 37 22 22 51 93 85 85 53 67 53 205

Welsh Winter Betws y Coed Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd Llanberis Cloggy Cwm Silyn Tremadog 27 59 27 65 63 27 79 91 89 93 34 85 25 22 77 26 42 93 29 186 149 197 163 147 163 196 123 144 138 199 101 164 128 133 133 104 170 199 156 114 172 103 128 193 147 104 ...... 2 28 ...... Pinnacle Arete Pinnacle Scratch ...... Scratch Arete ...... Right-hand Trinity Piton Route ...... Climb Pigott’s Pillar Chimney ...... Pincushion ...... Pinnacle Rib Route Route ...... Pinnacle Ridge Pinnacle Wall Scimitar Crack Scorpio ...... Rift Wall Right Wall Right-hand Branch ...... Plexus Plumbagin ...... Pinnaclissima Sabre Cut ...... Rowan Tree Slabs ...... Rowan Tree Route II Route of Knobs Rowan Route Pyramid Gully ...... Quasar Quatre Fois Direct Route Rammer’s Rib, The Ribstone Crack ...... Poor Man’s Peuterey Poor Man’s Pretzl Logic Private Practice Pryderi ...... Plum, The ...... The Poacher, Route I ...... Ring, The Psych’n’Burn . . Pyramid Face Direct ...... Ramp, The Rampart Corner Rectory Chimneys Rib and Slab ...... Pulpit Route ...... Resurrection ...... HVS V VDiff S E5 E1 E2 VS E3 E1 E5 E6 III E4 * VS * II/III * VS * E1 * HVS * Diff * VS * S * E2 * VS * Diff ** E2 ** VS ** VS ** E2 ** VDiff ** VS ** E2 ** VS ** III ** ** E2 ** Diff ** IV ** VS ** VS ** S ** E3 ** V ** E1 ** VDiff ** VDiff ** VDiff *** ***

*** *** ***

*** ***

*** *** ***

*** ***

***

45 64 89 21 79 81 53 87 81 39 60 37 51 63 25 45 41 22 22 34 42 91 23 22 67 97 143 147 123 111 103 167 123 157 200 159 114 135 121 164 101 135 107 107 131 Page ...... 18 Photo ...... N

Octo Old Holborn Ordinary Route (Ogof) Original Route Orpheus Overlapping Wall Nose, The Parson’s Phantom Rib Ordinary Route (Idwal) ...... Neb Direct, The . . . Oberon ...... One Step in the Clouds One Step in the Crowds ...... Outside Edge Route Overlapping Ridge Route . . . . . Passchendaele Pectoral Wall Pedestal Crack Pentangle ...... Oxine Paradise ...... Merlin Direct Mistook Mossy Slab Munich Climb ...... Mur y Niwl Myomancy Nea ...... Nifl-Heim Nimbus ...... Warning Noah’s North Arete ...... November ...... Longland’s Climb Longland’s ...... Wife ...... Lot’s Lubyanka M .T Madog Marble Slab ...... Meirionydd ...... Meshach ...... Nexus ...... Lorraine ...... Main Wall ...... Groove Lot’s Route

VS VS VDiff V VS VS VS E3

E3 HVS E1 Route Index Route HS HVS

* Diff * E2 * Diff * E3 * S * E1 * HVS * E2 * HS * HVD * E2 * Diff * S

** E1 ** E1 ** E1 ** Diff ** VS ** VDiff ** HVS ** HVS ** VS ** VS ** HVS ** VS ** VS ** VS ** VS ** HS ** E1 ** VS ** VS

Stars Grade *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ***

*** *** *** ***

***

206 Tremadog Cwm Silyn Cloggy Llanberis Lliwedd Ogwen Carneddau Betws y Coed Welsh Winter

*** *** *** ***

***

***

*** *** *** ***

*** *** *** *** *** *** Stars Grade ** VS ** HVS ** VS ** III ** VIII ** E1 ** E2 ** VDiff ** VS ** V ** E2 ** E2 ** S ** HS ** VS ** E2 * HS * VS * VDiff * E2 * S * S * VS * Mod * E1 * HS * Diff * E2 * S E3 E2 E2 E1 VS HVS IV E2 HS HVS VDiff E3 HVS VDiff IV V Route Silly Arete. Silhoutte . Shrike . Sheaf Super Direct(DinasMot). Skylon Sickle Shadrach Shadow Wall Sword/Route 2,The. Slab 1. Temper . Super Direct(Milestone) Slab 2. Screen, The Two Pitch Route. Troach, The Trinity Buttress. . Travesty Terminator Tennis Shoe Ten DegreesNorth. Sunset Crack Slab Subsidiary Subsidiary Grooves Subsidiary Spectre . Slab ClimbRight-hand. Slab Climb Stepped Crack Spiral Scratch. Sub CneifionRib Stroll On. Striptease . Strapiombo Sting, The. SS Special Spiral Stairs Spectrum South Gully Somme, The. Slanting Chimney. Slack Soapgut Slow LedgeClimb Slape Direct ...... Photo . 178 119 95 3 . . . . Page 128 193 112 120 196 159 112 143 113 107 138 120 135 131 186 101 121 190 177 163 126 195 203 41 27 63 83 64 69 89 97 87 63 59 26 83 91 81 81 71 85 37 98 83 71

*** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** HVS ** VDiff ** VS ** HVS ** E2 ** VS ** VS ** HS * E2 * HVS * HVS * Mod * VS * VS * HS * HS * VDiff * Diff * HVS * E3 E2 E5 V V E3 E2 E2 E4 E3 E3 E1 E2 Wrack, The. Wind . White Slab Wrinkled Retainer. Wrinkle, The. Western Slabs Western GullyDirectFinish Western Gully. West ButtressEliminate. Yellow Crack. Y Broga West Rib Weaver, The Yellow Wall . Yellow Groove Waved Slab Wasp, The Zig Zag. Yogi Wall Climb Vulture Zip Wall Zip Groove Vulcan Underlap . Void Vember . Vector . Valerie’s Rib. Upper Staircase, The Unicorn Venom . . . . .

...... Route Index . . . . . 72 . . . 202 131 126 202 151 131 158 158 147 151 85 69 98 45 98 87 69 39 79 89 21 47 79 45 77 29 87 39 42 60 39 32 207

Welsh Winter Betws y Coed Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd Llanberis Cloggy Cwm Silyn Tremadog 8 6 8 8 4 4 10 14 14 14 204 A5 ...... A470 ...... Coed ...... page 168 Betws y Betws y Coed . . . Rescue Mountain Pubs Key Topo Walls . . . . . Grades Winter Map Key Ropes Key Symbol Introduction Winter . . . . . Index Route Shops 2 6 6 About 10km About 10 10 16 14 12 12 12 14 . Blaenau A470 ...... page 152 Carneddau A4086 page 178 ...... Access Acknowledgements ...... Cafes . . . . Classic Routes Clothing ...... Codes Colour Gear ...... Table Grade Guidebooks ...... Guides ...... Introduction Welsh Winter Lliwedd page 108 A5 7 9 11 13 15 17 A55 Nant Peris Nant A498 Mountain Rescue Inside Front Inside Back page 18 Outside Cover Ogwen

Bangor page 116 Tremadog ...... com Llanberis page 72 ...... Tremadog

Llanberis PassLlanberis Advertisers Dial 999 and ask for ‘POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE’ - MOUNTAIN ‘POLICE Dial 999 and ask for

A4085 Cloggy A487

page 54 General Index and Map and Index General

page 48

Cwm Silyn ...... Walls Awesome Beacon Climbing Centre Diamond Black Climb Mountains ExpeditionGuide Guides ...... High Mountains Shops Brown Joe ...... Plas y Brenin Summit ...... Sea to 208 Tremadog Cwm Silyn Cloggy Llanberis Lliwedd Ogwen Carneddau Betws y Coed Welsh Winter