177 -onBochlwyd ButtressinOgwen. Photo:MarkGlaister This page: SimonLakeBochlwydEliminate on(HVS)- page Geldard on Cover photo:AlexandraSchweikart, belayedbyChristopherIgel, A climbing guidebook to selected routes A climbingguidebookto selected onthecrags ofNorth Wales Left Wall (E2)-page111onDinasCromlech. Photo:Jack North WalesClimbs North Mark ReevesMark Jack Geldard ISBN 978 1873341827 A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish writtenprior ofthe copyright owner. permission means, electronic, mechanical,photocopying orotherwisewithout stored inaretrieval system, ortransmitted inany form orby any reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart bereproduced, rockfax.com © ROCKFAX 2013, 2010 Published by ROCKFAX inNovember 2013 All mapsby ROCKFAX Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk) Printed inEurope onbehalfofLatitudePress Ltd. Other photography ascredited All uncredited photography by Rockfax Edited by and Stephen Horne Alan James Mark Glaister Mark 1
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate
(E2) -page257onCarregHyllDrem.Photo:MarkGlaister Ian WilsonandJackGeldardonthelastpitchofHardd General Index and Area Map Crag Index Route Index The Crags . . Bolting Grades . Gear . Climbing . WalesNorth Weather . Logistics . WalesNorth Acknowledgements Advertisers . Introduction Destination Planner TablesDestination Top 50 Mountain Rescue and Access . Climbing Walls, GuidesandInstructors . Climbing Shops, Pubs andCafes Tourist Information and Accommodation Other Guidebooks Rockfax.com andUKClimbing.com Symbol, Mapand Topo Key . The BookandSmartphones ...... 42-393 . 400 394 399 38 32 30 28 26 24 22 20 36 34 16 18 15 13 10 8 6 4 7
North Wales WalesClimbsClimbs North North Slate The Crags
. . Barmouth Mid Wales . CoastLimestoneNorth . Rhoscolyn Gogarth Betws yCoedandtheMoelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Tryfan . Ogwen . Lliwedd . Lliwedd andGwynant Valley Du'r Arddu Clogwyn Llanberis Pass . Australia . California Dali's Hole Bus Stop Quarry Cadair Idris Gist Ddu. . . Craig Cywarch andLlechauMawrY Grisiau . Simdde Ddu. . Penmaen Head Castle InnQuarry Castell yGwynt PenLower Trwyn PenUpper Trwyn Holyhead Mountain South Stack Stack andMainCliffNorth . . Clogwyn yrEryr Clogwyn Cyrau . Carreg Alltrem y TonnauCraig . The Moelwyns Carreg HyllDrem . Bwlch yMoch. Pant Ifan . Craig yCastell Craig yGesail Cwm Silyn Llech Ddu. yr Ysfa Craig Craig yrOgof. Carreg Mianog. Craig Lloer. Ogwen Outliers Cwm Idwal . Glyder Fach Clogwyn yBustach y Wenallt . Clogwyn Cwm GlasBach . Cyrn Las Clogwyn yDdysgl Dinas Mot. Scimitar Ridge Dinas Cromlech . Carreg Wastad . Clogwyn yGrochan . Craig Ddu. Slab Area Rainbow . Vivian Quarry Serengeti Area ...... 200 362 390 386 382 380 378 368 360 346 324 322 308 278 270 268 266 260 258 256 238 228 224 222 208 206 204 202 392 296 216 162 152 134 316 218 126 124 376 276 214 196 182 178 164 160 158 154 130 106 100 274 116 114 44 42 92 88 86 68 60 54 52 50 76 3 3
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 4 North Wales Climbs Introduction
North Wales is one of the most important climbing areas of the UK, with a long and rich history Slate flowing back to the early part of last century when the first climbs, often long and committing mountain routes, were pioneered in what must have seemed like a true wilderness landscape. Llanberis Pass
The post-war era brought a new boom in rock climbing, led of course by the likes of Brown and Whillans, who between them are responsible for
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn quite a few of the adventures documented within these pages. The Anglesey sea cliffs came to prominence in the 1960s, then the twin booms of Slate and North Coast Limestone brought bolts and sport climbs (some more sporty than others!)
Lliwedd and Gwynant in the 1980s. Since then it has been harder and harder climbs added to the steep walls and sea cliffs of the area and what we are left with now is a wide spread of routes from easy mountain slabs to terrifying Gogarth monsters and everything in between. Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid WalesMid
A party making the most of a fine late afternoon on Spectre (HVS) - page 95 - at Clogwyn y Grochan in the Llanberis Pass. In the background Dinas Mot is just coming into the sun. Photo: Mark Glaister destinations intheworld! inspired to gooutandclimb, andexperience North Wales -truely oneofthebestclimbing inallitsglory than enoughclimbingto lastmostpeopleseveral lifetimes, browsing sostart through thepages, andget togetherThis bookbrings thebestonoffer inthis, perhapstheUK'sfinestclimbingarea. Ithasmore and ambience. This often offers climbers multiple optionsshouldthere bebadweather inonearea. ofmountain ofahuge variety andcoastal cliffs,beauty givingabroad choiceofaspect,altitude, angle There isalsotheweather. Yes theweather! Despite having areas ofhighrainfall, North Wales hasthe climbs, ofallgrades andofsuchvariety. the biggestdraw to thearea. Nowhere intheUKisthere suchaconcentration ofclassictraditional rock climbingto classtraditional sitalongsideitsworld adventures.sport And itistheseadventures thatare Since thebolt-boomof1980s andtherebolting efforts ofrecent years, North Wales now offers fine 8 different rock and56different types crags, eachwith itsown character, feel andofcourse history. The diversity oftherock inNorth Wales andtheclimbingstyles isphenomenal. This guidebookfeatures Introduction North WalesClimbs North 5
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 6 North Wales Climbs The Book
This book brings together the best climbing across North and Mid Wales. The previous Rockfax pocket-
Slate guide to North Wales only covered routes in the mountain crags and Tremadog. This edition has been entirely re-worked with longer descriptions, many more routes, even bigger photo-topos and covering more areas like the Slate, Gogarth, North Coast Limestone and Mid Wales. It includes over 1000 routes across the grade range from trad Mod to E7 and sport 4 to 9a. Llanberis Pass As with all Rockfax books, each chapter includes many features to aid you in selecting and locating your chosen route. Our aim within the pages is that you should never have to turn more than a few pages to first get to the crag, then get to the buttress and finally locate the routes. All route descriptions are on the same page as their topo and listed from left-to-right. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn There are also many features to help choose suitable crags depending on specific weather conditions. You can select a crag from the crag tables on pages 38 to 41. Each topo also has crag characters for a quick glance check - see key to right. Lliwedd and Gwynant Take a photo of the route description Take a photo of the route topo which you Scan the QR code to use your phone to can then zoom in on. navigate to the parking Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns
Using your Smartphone with this Book We plan to have a fully-functioning app version of this guidebook available in the next year or so, but
Gogarth until then, here are a couple of useful ways you can use your smartphone with this guidebook.
This book is quite heavy, around 750g, which is probably heavier than your unloaded harness. If you don't want to carry it up the route then photograph the page, topo and/or description on your
N.C. Limestone smartphone and leave the book at the base with the rest of your non-climbing gear - much lighter overall and you were probably carrying your phone up with you anyway.
Navigation - Another way you can use your smartphone with this book is to use a navigation app with the blue box coordinates that are displayed with the parking locations. Just enter the co-ordinates into your web browser, or navigation app, to take you straight from your current location to the parking.
Mid WalesMid Since these co-ordinates are quite difficult to enter, we have included QR Codes on the maps. Using a QR Code reader app like Scan (for iOS) or Google Goggles (for Android) you can scan the QR Code and choose to open the result direct into the Google Maps navigation app on your phone. Symbol, Map and Topo Key North Wales Climbs 7
Route Symbols Map and Topo Key
1 A good route which is well worth climbing. Approximate vertical Crag-top Slate height > 30m belay A very good route, one of the best on the crag. Variation 2 lines on Abseil the same A brilliant route, one of the best in North Wales. point 3 route Descent One of the most coveted routes in the book. 4 There are more than 50 of these! - see page 36. 45m Llanberis Pass Technical climbing requiring good balance and t technique, or complex and tricky moves. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs p or long moves off small holds. Route on Approximate Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or a different vertical
page (or not Clogwyn Du'r Arddu steep rock giving pumpy climbing. height <30 s covered) Fingery climbing with significant small holds on 27m f the hard sections. Mid-route Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary belay h run-outs. A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one and Gwynant Lliwedd r or more of the moves. A dynamic move is required.
o Ogwen Graunchy climbing, wide cracks or awkward k thrutchy moves. Trad route (white dash) l Some loose rock may be encountered. Crag Symbols Carneddau Angle of the approach walk to the buttress with S20 mins approximate time. 1 3 Approximate time that the buttress is in the direct 2 sun (when it is shining). Sport route E (yellow dash) The buttress can offer shelter from cold winds Tremadog Approach * and it may be a good sun-trap in colder weather. The buttress is on a mountain crag exposed to Scale $ bad weather. Summit The buttress suffers from seepage. It may well be A Crag @ wet and unclimbable in winter and early spring. page Betws and Moelwyns The buttress is affected by the tide - see the Footpath GPS Coordinates % buttress notes for details. of parking B Roads An abseil approach is required to reach the start Wall of the routes. Town/village Gogarth J Track Some or all of the routes may be affected by a
X restriction. Check the crag information for details. A Roads Train Deserted - Currently under-used and usually station quiet. Less good routes or a remote area. N.C. Limestone
Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, map for scan Building or good buttresses with awkward approaches. Campsite Busy - Places you will seldom be alone. Good routes and easy access. QR code for smartphone Crowded - The most popular sections of the Mid Wales navigation most popular crags which are always busy. Rockfax.com and UKClimbing.com and Rockfax.com Guidebook Footnote North Wales North Climbs Wales
The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a righta upon climb rightthe or access of to have you that mean not does guidebook this in area climbing a of inclusion The should be placed on and no reliance only reasons historical for recorded within this guide are The descriptions of routes it. Climbers of the climbs. assessment of the difficulty a fair set in this guide are The grades of the description. the accuracy to enough proficient are whether they judgment as to of a particular should use their own standard a route who attempt and distributors publisher The authors, judgment. and proper experience for This book is not a substitute that route. tackle parties, third or property climbers, arising or by, injury liability any for or damage caused to, of this book do not recognise safety. their own for on this guidebook as an assurance seeking reliance such persons from restricted to your own climbing partners own only. your to restricted the grade/star system linked to the Rockfax database. The Logbook can be private, public or public The Logbook can be private, database. the Rockfax to linked system the grade/star you did it with and each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to to vote can also add your You notes. own did it with and each entry your you has a place for be able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style climbed it in, who when you you make, you ascent every record to be able and click on the Logbook tab. Once set up you will Once set up you on the Logbook tab. at UKClimbing.com and click do is register need to far, users have recorded more than 3 million ascents! To set up your own Logbook all you Logbook all you own set up your To than 3 million ascents! more recorded have users far, Logbooks system. This database lists more than 240,000 routes, over 16,000 crags and, so crags 16,000 over routes, than 240,000 lists more This database Logbooks system. UKC Logbooks UKC use the UKClimbing.com climbing is to popular method of logging your An incredibly routes in general. routes keep everyone informed about any changes or your own opinions on grades, stars and the and stars opinions on grades, own or your changes about any informed everyone keep to reflect the routes as described in this edition of the book so you can start using it again to you can start as described of the book so in this edition routes it again using the reflect to who have contributed. The current version of the Rockfax Route Database has been updated updated has been Database Route of the Rockfax version current The contributed. who have The data already received has been vital in the production of this guide - thanks to all those of this guide - thanks to in the production vital has been received already The data this database you can vote on grades and star ratings, and submit feedback about the routes. about the routes. and submit feedback ratings, and star on grades can vote you this database route in this book, and most other Rockfax books as well - that's over 35,000 routes! Using 35,000 routes! - that's over books as well other Rockfax book, and most in this route The website is also the home of the Rockfax Route Database which contains a listing of every a listing of every which contains Database Route home of the Rockfax is also the The website the main place to look when we develop the smartphone app version of our guidebooks. of the smartphone app version develop when we look to the main place Database Rockfax Route updates, both complementing the printed books, and also covering new areas. It will also be It will also areas. new covering and also books, the printed both complementing updates, Europe. It has full online ordering of all our books and also many PDF MiniGUIDES and MiniGUIDES PDF also many books and of all our ordering has full online It Europe. is a mine of useful information about climbing all over all over climbing about information mine of useful is a rockfax.com website The Rockfax 88 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales
North WalesClimbs North page 381-onYGrisiau. Photo:GlaisterCollection excellent Mid Wales classicWilderness Grit(E3 ) Mark Glaisteronthe difficult lowerwallofthe - 9 9
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 10 North Wales Climbs Other Guidebooks
There are a number of guides to North Wales which give full coverage of all the routes on the crags in this Slate book, plus many more crags as well. These are essential purchases if you wish to get the most out of the climbing on offer in North Wales in a particular area.
Llanberis Pass Llanberis Slate, Ground Up (2011) Llanberis, Climbers' Club (2009) Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, Climbers' Club (2004) Lliwedd, Climbers' Club (1998)
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn Ogwen, Climbers' Club (2010) Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn, Climbers' Club (2003) Tremadog, Climbers' Club (2010) Gogarth, Climbers' Club (1986) Gogarth North, Ground Up (2008)
Lliwedd and Gwynant Meirionnydd, Climbers' Club (2002) A55 Sport Climbing, Pesda Press (2011)
There are also three guidebooks which should be published in the next year or so: Carneddau, Climbers' Club - due 2014 North Wales Limestone - due 2014
Ogwen Gogarth South, Ground Up - no date known
Other selective guidebooks: North Wales Rock, Ground Up (2009) Rock Climbing in Snowdonia, Paul Williams (reprinted 2004) Carneddau North Wales Rock, TheSend, Smartphone App (2010)
and the handy pocket-sized North Wales Classics, Rockfax (2010) which also includes North Wales Winter. Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid WalesMid
Advertisers page 392 North Wales North Climbs Wales -
- on Cadair Idris in Mid Wales. - on Cadair Idris in Mid Wales. Photo: Mark Glaister Bridget Collier on the superb Cyfrwy Arete (Diff) 12 12 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Advertisers theboardroomclimbing.com Rectors Lane, Pentre. Tel: 01244 537476 www.mammut.ch The Boardroom - climbingcentres.co.uk Reading ClimbingCentre, Tel: 0118 9756298 Harrogate ClimbingCentre, Tel: 01423 815024 Manchester ClimbingCentre, Tel: 0161 2307006 Climbingcentres.co.uk - www.beaconclimbing.com Cibyn Estate, Caernarfon. Tel: 03454508222 Beacon ClimbingCentre -Page 25 www.awesomewalls.co.uk Street,Garter Sheffield. Tel: 0114 2446622 Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Tel: 01782 341919 The EngineHouse, Stockport. Tel: 0161 4949949 St. Alban’s Church, Liverpool. Tel: 0151 2982422 Awesome Walls - Climbing Walls Mammut - www.entre-prises.com Entre-prise - www.arcteryx.com Arc'teryx -Outsideback cover Equipment Manufacturers who have thisguidebook: supported Rockfax grateful is very to thefollowing advertisers snowdoniamountainguides.com Tel: 07872 565225 Mark Reeves ClimbingCoach - www.pyb.co.uk Tel: 01690 720214 Plas yBrenin - Guiding/Accommodation www.highsports.co.uk Shrewsbury. Tel: 01743 231649 - High Sports www.joe-brown.com Capel Curig. Tel: 01690 720205 High Street, Llanberis. Tel: 01286 870327 Joe Browns - Outdoor Shops North WalesClimbs North Inside front cover Page 11 Page 23 Page 33 Inside back cover Page 2 Page 29 Back cover flap Page 19 13
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 14 North Wales Climbs Acknowledgements
Having lived in North Wales My years in North for nearly 20 years now, I Wales have been jam Slate am passionate about the packed with climbing climbing we have here. In and adventure, and I helping to bring this book am proud to have called together I have had an Llanberis home. The Llanberis Pass amazing opportunity to help great friends, exciting sell North Wales to you the days out and sociable climbing public at large and evenings are memories this wouldn’t have been I will treasure forever. I
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn possible without so many people. would like to thank all my First off Jack Geldard for recommending me to friends in North Wales, Alan James as an author. Alan also helped edit but especially Rob Greenwood, Dave Evans, James much of my text and photos. Stephen Horne who McHaffie, Pete Robins, Jim McCormack, Steve behind the scenes helped unbreak the bits I broke Mayers and finally Ian Wilson for their safe belays
Lliwedd and Gwynant and is responsible for the amazing maps and (ok, maybe not Pete for the belays!), good banter layout in this book. and for some of them, the help with this book. I could of course not have written this book unless Also I would like to thank the team who have I had such a good bunch of friends who I climbed grafted hard to make this book hit the shelves; with in North Wales. I hope they know how much Alan, Steven, Mark and Mark. Top work! Here's to they mean to me. In particular four stand out the next project... whatever that may be! as worthy of a mention; Llion Morris and Katie
Ogwen Haston, who I have done so much climbing with Jack Geldard and share so many great memories; Simon Lake, who I have sandbagged into more than one or two As with all guidebooks we owe a great debt to all routes over the years (see the photo on page 256); those previous authors who have worked so hard and Dave Evans who provided fine company on
Carneddau to document the climbing of North Wales over the many of the more adventurous routes. last 100 years (current comprehensive guidebooks Many of the harder routes included in this book, are listed on page 10). were beyond me to climb but I have been lucky This book also contains many bolted routes which enough to be dragged up some of these Extreme rely on the efforts of volunteers to place and classics by James McHaffie, Pete Robins and maintain. We are very grateful to them for their Tremadog Dave Rudkin over the years. efforts (see page 34 for more on bolts and funding). There are also too many people to remember who This project has 'evolved' over a period of years I have dragged along over the years to esoteric into the book you see now, as such many different areas and obscure classics to both climb and people have had an input into it at various stages. Betws and Moelwyns check the information in this guide. They have all I am grateful to the three main authors for the been vitally important to make this guide what it is. work they have done, and also to Stephen 'Fatboy' Mark Reeves Horne for his work. We have also been ably assisted by a number of very knowledgeable climbers who have given Some of my first mountain their feedback; Tom Ripley, Rob Greenwood, Chris
Gogarth climbing experiences were Craggs, Daimon Beail and Emma Harrington being on the crags of Mid Wales the most prominent amongst these. as a boy and since then I Thanks to all those who have supplied have climbed over much photographs. Most have come from the main of North Wales. It is one of authors but we have also received contributions N.C. Limestone the greatest climbing areas from Tom Ripley, Paul Cox, Paul Poole, Pete in the world and has been Robins, Ian Burton, Gary Smith and Bridget enhanced and sampled to Collier. Finally, thanks to my son Sam who has the full thanks to those I accompanied me on most of my recent trips to have had the pleasure to climb with - come rain, Wales where we have been enjoying some of the
Mid WalesMid snow and sunshine. Thank you to all who have superb multi-pitch mountain classics I forgot to do put the climbs up and documented them over when I was younger. the years and to the team that have put this book together. Alan James, October 2013 Mark Glaister
North WalesClimbs North on DinasCromlech inthePass. Photo:JackGeldard upper section ofLordthe Flies(E6)-page111 North Wales regularDaveEvansgoingforitonthe 15 15
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate Logistics
North Wales
Wes Hunter teetering along the Rainbow on PoetryWes Pink (E5) - page 81 - on the magnificent Rainbow Slab in the Slate Quarries. Photo: Mark Reeves 16 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales 17
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 18 North Wales ClimbsLogistics Shops,Tourist Walls, Information Guides, Cafes and Accommodationand Pubs
Evening light at Gwern Gof Uchaf
Slate campsite directly below Tryfan. Photo: Alan James Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn Lliwedd and Gwynant
Tourist Information Offices Some popular sites for climbers are: If you are short of ideas of what to do on a wet Ogwen day or need some accommodation, take a look Nant Peris Campsite, opposite the Vaynol pub. at the Tourist Information Offices. They contain See map on page 37. much more useful information than it is possible to include in these pages. Gwern Gof Uchaf, below Tryfan. Barmouth, Station Road. Tel: 01341 280787 See map on page 158. Carneddau Beddgelert, Canolfan Hebog. Tel: 01766 890615 Betws-y-Coed. Tel: 01690 710426 Gwern Gof Isaf Farm, also near Tryfan. Caernarfon, Castle Street. Tel: 01286 672232 See map on page 158. Llanberis, Electric Mountain. Tel: 01286 870765 Llandudno, Mostyn Street. Tel: 01492 577577 Capel Curig Campsite, on the A5 near the Tyn y Tremadog Porthmadog, High Street. Tel: 01766 512981 Coed pub. www.nwt.co.uk www.visitwales.com Eric Jones Campsite and Bunkhouse, at www.visitsnowdonia.info Tremadog. See map on page 228. Betws and Moelwyns Llyn Gwynant Campsite, near Craig y Wenallt. Getting Around See map on page 152. The easiest way to access most of the crags in this book is by car and the approach descriptions are Cadair Idris, two sites next to the approach written assuming you have access to one. Certain parking for Cyfrwy - see page 393. crags are accessible using public transport and Gogarth train stations are marked on the maps. Cwm Bychan, at the parking for Y Grisiau and Train Information - www.thetrainline.com Llechau Mawr - see page 380. Bus Information - www.traveline.info There are Youth Hostels in Llanberis, at Idwal, in N.C. Limestone Accommodation Capel Curig and in Conwy amongst other places. The most popular accommodation for many Check www.yha.org.uk climbers is camping and there are loads of campsites all over North Wales. These vary from Plas y Brenin also offer accommodation both in simple fields with a single shared toilet and a tap, the centre itself in Capel Curig, and in some self- to larger campsites with pitches, washrooms and contained cottages. Mid WalesMid shops. The Classified Listings onUKClimbing.com Check www.pyb.co.uk can help you locate a campsite near the area you wish to climb in. Most are happy for you just to turn up without a reservation, except on Bank Holidays.
click on 'Weather on 'Weather click - Station'. far by offers The North Coast Limestone the getting in the area, the driest of the cliffs dry to after and being very quick best weather the conditions with weather can view You rain. at www.llandudno- and a webcam updates weather.co.uk for forecast weather mountain a general For on one of the best sites region, the Snowdonia Information Weather is the Mountain the web could www.mwis.org.uk or you Service at: the National y Brenin Plas in to drop always and forecast a weather for Centre Mountain dry for crags. some recommendations has a totally different climate to the to climate different Gogarth totally has a coast guard the call to quick and a mountains get you will only) hours - office (01407-767950 and the ferry update and conditions a weather page on port station has a weather Holyhead in www.holyheadport.com Weather North Wales North Logistics Wales www.raintoday.co.uk/mobile
also gives temperature and wind speed. and temperature also gives www.webcam.whr.co.uk/porthmadog which conditions for Tremadog with this webcam: with this webcam: Tremadog conditions for mountains. You can check the general weather weather the general can check You mountains. often sits just inside the rain shadow of the shadow just inside the rain sits often dries remarkably quickly, and quickly, dries remarkably Tremadog Rain Radar - should dictate your crag choice. crag your should dictate presence of sunshine are the factors which the factors of sunshine are presence Limestone. Experience, wind direction and the direction Experience, wind Limestone. are Tremadog, Gogarth and the North Coast Tremadog, are when the weather is bad in the mountains is bad in the mountains when the weather Usually though the three options you have have options you though the three Usually are in the mist, and the Ormes are greasy. in the mist, and the Ormes greasy. are are sunny conditions when Tremadog and Gogarth Tremadog when conditions sunny here it is possible very occasionally to have have to very occasionally it is possible here often plagued by bad weather although even even although weather bad plagued by often rewarded. The mountain crags are obviously obviously are crags The mountain rewarded. perseverance in choosing your venue will be venue your in choosing perseverance strictly true, it is often the case that a little case that a little the often true, it is strictly what the weather. Whilst this may not be may this Whilst what the weather. dry rock to climb on in North Wales no matter no matter in NorthWales climb on to dry rock It is often said that you can always find some find always can that you said It is often Rob Johnson, wet but happy on the upper section of Clogwyn y Person Arete (Mod) - page 124 - on Clogwyn y Ddysgl. Photo: Mark Glaister 20 20 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales websites notconnected to Rockfax andmay change. page are accurate atthetimeofwritingbutthey are external Please note thatthewebsite linksandQRcodesonthis adjust for daylight saving ifneeded. an easy to usemapandsimpletidegraphs. Don'tforget to to check thetidesiswww.ukho.gov.uk/easytidewhichhas For thoseclimbers headingto thecoast,easiestwebsite Tides Weather on Android. Google Goggles We useScanoniOS and when you are out and about. for information smartphone scan thesecodes withyour Use aQRCode reader to QR Codes North WalesLogistics North Holyhead Weather Station Holyhead MWIS for Snowdonia for MWIS Llandudno webcam Tremadog webcam Llandudno Tides Holyhead Tides Tides Holyhead for next 3days next for for next 3 days next for Rain Radar 21
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 22 North Wales Logistics Shops, Cafes and Pubs Climbing Shops
Slate North Wales has plenty of outdoor shops but not all of them stock climbing gear. For specialist gear you are best heading to one of the shops below.
Llanberis Pass Joe Brown Shops High Street, Llanberis, LL55 4HA Tel: 01286 870327 Capel Curig, LL24 0EP
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn Tel: 01690 720205 www.joe-brown.com High Sports Shrewsbury, SY1 1XJ
Lliwedd and Gwynant Tel: 01743 231649 www.highsports.co.uk
V12 - High Street, Llanberis Cotswolds - Betws y Coed
Ogwen Pubs Good pubs are unfortunately quite hard to come by in North Wales, but here are a selection of the better offerings. Pete's Eats Cafe in Llanberis. Carneddau Gallt y Glyn, Llanberis - Just west of Llanberis on the main road. It does an excellent 'Pizza and Pint'. Cafes Climbers' night is Wednesday and it can be busy North Wales has a great number of climbers and a on Saturdays. high annual rainfall, which means that there are a fair few cafes worth visiting. Tremadog The Heights, Llanberis - In the centre of Llanberis. A popular location for climbers offering Pete's Eats, Llanberis - Well known in this good food and a great pint. part of the world. A big menu of the old school although with modern alternatives if you don't want Betws and Moelwyns Vaynol Arms, Nant Peris - Opposite the campsite. everything fried. Whatever you choose, you won't Good beers and a pool table! Can get very leave hungry! crowded. Caban, Brynrefail - A modern cafe/restaurant Pen y Gwryd Hotel, Llanberis Pass - Over the offering great food and coffees. top of Pen y Pass towards Capel Curig. This old
Gogarth hotel has an excellent bar with log fires and a Pinnacle Cafe, Capel Curig - Found in the mountaineering history. Pinnacle shop. All day breakfasts.
Plas y Brenin, Capel Curig - The bar in the Eric's Cafe - Hard to miss if you're at Tremadog. It Centre is open in the evenings and has local ales, also has a small climbing shop for picking up those N.C. Limestone great food and a stunning lake view. vital extra runners for your big lead.
Tyn y Coed, Capel Curig - Also on the main A5 The Big Rock Cafe, Porthmadog - On the main road from Capel to Betws. More of a climbers' pub. street of Porthmadog near to Tremadog. Home Reasonable food and some interesting beers. made cakes and good coffee. Mid WalesMid The Golden Fleece, Tremadog - In Tremadog Ogwen Cottage Snack Bar - Next to the carpark village. Has good real ales but an expensive menu. at Ogwen Cottage, this snack bar has hot and cold drinks and snacks.
24 North Wales Logistics Walls and Guides
Climbing Walls ¢ - Lead routes
Slate There are a number of ∞ - Bouldering good climbing walls in the area which offer an option § - Cafe for wet days or training. Llanberis Pass
Beacon Climbing Centre ¢∞§ Cibyn Estate
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn Caernarfon, LL55 2BD Tel: 0345 4508222 www.beaconclimbing.com See advert opposite
Lliwedd and Gwynant Plas y Brenin ¢∞§ Capel Curig, LL24 0ET Tel: 01690 720214 www.pyb.co.uk See advert inside the back cover
Ogwen The Boardroom ¢∞§ Rectors Lane, Queensferry, CH5 2DH Just off the A55. Tel: 01244 537476 theboardroomclimbing.com See advert on page 29 Carneddau Simon Geering being guided up Lliwedd. Photo: Mark Reeves The Indy Climbing Wall ¢∞§ Plas Llanfair, Llanfairpwllgwyngyll, LL61 6NT Guides and Instructors Tel: 01248 716058 Snowdonia is a hub of outdoor education, as www.facebook.com/indyclimbingwall such you can find many guides, instructors Tremadog and coaches via internet searches. The Harlech Climbing Wall ¢∞§ listings on UKClimbing.com return 68 Ffordd y Traeth, Harlech, LL46 2UG Instructors/Guides within 50km of Llanberis. Tel: 01766 780576 Betws and Moelwyns www.harlechclimbingwall.com If you want to have a fine day out then Maes Glas Sports Centre ¢∞§ hiring a local instructor means that you will University of Wales have the benefit of their local knowledge for Ffriddoedd Rd, Bangor, LL57 2JR finding the best venue. This can make the Tel: 01248 382571 most of a day if time is limited or conditions www.bangor.ac.uk/maesglas/ Gogarth are challenging. Expect to pay between £150 There are a couple of smaller walls in leisure and £250 for a day of 1:1 guiding. centres in the area. Mark Reeves Climbing Coach
N.C. Limestone Llandudno Junction ¢∞§ Tel: 07872 565225 Llandudno, LL31 9XY Tel: 01492 583592 snowdoniamountainguides.com See advert on page 19 Dyffryn Conwy Leisure Centre ¢∞§ Plas y Brenin Nebo Rd, Llanrwst, LL26 0SD Capel Curig, LL24 0ET Mid WalesMid Tel: 01492 642028 Tel: 01690 720214 More information on www.pyb.co.uk www.ukclimbing.com/walls/ See advert inside the back cover
Climbing
North Wales
Martin Hallett following the cleaned path up The Strand (E2) - at Gogarth. Photo: Mark Glaister page 294 - on the Upper Tier 26 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales 27
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate
Echo112 app BMC RAD app Mountain Rescue Access and Mountain RescueMountain North Wales Mountain Rescue Association - www.nwmra.org Rescue Mountain NorthWales If the incident is on a sea cliff then ask for 'The Coastguard' then ask for is on a sea cliff If the incident North Wales North Climbing Wales The majority of crags in this book have been climbed on for many years and we are lucky are and we years many been climbed on for The majority in this book have of crags cases In a few in the book. all the routes nearly access to almost unrestricted enjoy to arrangements. or special approach nesting birds, due to temporary restrictions are there In the event of a mountain incident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: Mountain of assistance the requiring incident of a mountain event In the Dial 112 or 999 and ask for ‘POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE' - MOUNTAIN ‘POLICE for 999 and ask or Dial 112
at an early stage can defuse a situation before it develops. before can defuse a situation stage at an early They are always happy to discuss any problems you encounter and often the BMC’s involvement involvement the BMC’s often and encounter you problems discuss any to happy always are They If you do encounter problems then contact the BMC Access and Conservation representative. representative. Conservation and Access the BMC then contact problems do encounter If you BMC RAD app from your iOS or Android app store. app Android iOS or your BMC RAD app from or install the the or install - thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ RAD here can check You book. migration may delay the opening by a week or so from the dates given in this given the dates so from or a week the opening by delay may migration date situation is. This is particularly important on sea cliffs where nesting birds This is particularly nesting birds where important cliffs on sea situation is. date unsure, you use the BMC Regional Access Database to check what the up-to- check to Database Access use the BMC Regional you unsure, Access arrangements can change and we recommend that, when you are are that, when you recommend and we can change arrangements Access Country Code. Country Code. in better shape than you found it; take only pictures and leave only footprints; and abide by the and abide by footprints; only and leave pictures only take it; found shape than you in better In general all that is required to maintain this access is reasonable behaviour. Try to leave a place leave to Try behaviour. is reasonable this access maintain to that is required all In general These details are covered in the text; just keep an eye out for the red restrictions icon (left). icon restrictions the red out for an eye just keep in the text; covered are These details
[email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk Email: Web: 445 4500. 0161 Fax: 4878 0870 010 Tel: British Mountaineering Council M20 2BB. Manchester, Burton Road, 177-179 Council, Mountaineering British to find one of these in the appropriate app store. find one of these in the appropriate to Reference Grid Grid for - search phone's GPS system your from OS grid reference your calculate using your phone's GPS system. There are also other useful apps that can are There phone's GPS system. using your Access directed to do so by the aircrew since the rotating blades are extremely dangerous. extremely are blades since the rotating the aircrew do so by to directed location in and send your which country are you serviceemergency no matter someone to sit on them to stop them being blown away. Do not approach the helicopter unless the helicopter not approach Do away. them being blown stop sit on them to someone to will call the correct that This useful app has an SOS button app store. Android down. The downdraft is considerable so collect all the bags and loose equipment together and get and equipment together so collect all the bags and loose is considerable The downdraft down. the iOS or app from a smartphone the Echo112 download then have If you hover, then move to a safe distance away since they either come into land or send the winchman land or send the winchman either come into they since away distance a safe to then move hover, Smartphone Apps arms up making a 'Y' shape. Once the pilot has seen you, and he looks like he is coming in to in to he is coming he looks like and pilot has seen you, Once the arms a 'Y' shape. up making critical. If a helicopter is called to the scene you need to signal to the pilot by standing with your with your standing the pilot by to signal need to the scene you is called to helicopter If a critical. an hour or more for the emergency services to reach you so any First Aid you can administer is can administer Aid you First so any you services reach to the emergency for an hour or more to let them know your precise location, grid reference, crag name and route name. It may take take It may name. route name and crag location, grid reference, precise your let them know to If you are involved in an incident then give the rescue services as many details as you can. Try Try can. services as you details rescue the as many give in an incident then involved are If you Rescue Procedure X 28 28 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales
30 North Wales Climbing Gear
On the majority of routes in this guide there is no fixed gear, so everything
Slate you need to protect your ascent will have to be carried up the crag. In addition to your rock shoes, helmet, harness and chalk bag you will need an extensive (and expensive!) range of other gear.
Llanberis Pass Runners A typical multi-pitch rack will be based around a double set of wires. These are your staple diet and should be supplemented with extras such as camming devices and hexes for wider cracks and micro-wires for some of the harder routes. It is also worth having a good selection of extenders or Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn 'quickdraws' of varying lengths, and at least 4 or 5 slings of varying lengths. Many of the routes weave around and being able to extend your gear to avoid rope drag is essential. You'll also need a nut key to help remove stubborn pieces when your leader has put them in a little too well. Lliwedd and Gwynant Ropes A pair of double ropes is required for most of the routes in this book - 50m or 60m is the normal length. Some of the shorter single-pitch routes at areas such as the Upper Tier of Tremadog can be climbed on a single rope, but double ropes make multi-pitch climbing easier, reduce rope drag and give you the option to abseil a full rope-length if needed. The sport routes in the Ogwen Slate Quarries and on the North Coast Limestone can mostly be climbed and lowered off with a single 60m rope. Many of the routes at Gogarth require an extra abseil rope for the approach. In these cases the longest single rope you can lay your hands on is usually the best option and failing that then at least a 60m rope is advised. The approach descriptions have been written with Carneddau advice for those with only 50m ropes but it is always more awkward.
Other Gear Any day out in the mountains of Wales can be a cold and unpleasant experience if you don't have the correct clothing. Waterproofs, warm Tremadog mid-layers and hats and gloves are worthwhile additions to a pack and might make that 2 hour belay stint a little less painful. Having plenty of warm clothes to hand can be a lifesaver in the event of an accident too.
Betws and Moelwyns The steep descent walks on many crags are far more comfortable in trainers than tight climbing shoes so a light sack to carry your shoes is advised for the longer mountain routes. Sun cream (yes, really) and water are also worth carrying on a long day out. All this needs to fit into a small compact pack that sits high on your back allowing movement and keeping it clear of your harness and gear.
Gogarth Further Reading The Rockfax books TradCLIMBING+ and SportCLIMBING+ cover all aspects of traditional climbing and
N.C. Limestone sport climbing. They start from the very basics and work through gear, ropework and techniques, and on to more advanced skills like the mind and training. Both books are available from most outdoor retailers Mid WalesMid or direct from the online Rockfax shop - rockfax.com Brant (VS)- page 97-onClogwyn yGrochan.Photo: MarkGlaister Starting the Initialtraverseonthe firstpitchoftheclassic Passrouteof Gear North WalesClimbs North 31
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 32 North Wales Climbing Grades
The routes in this book are given one of two different grades depending on Slate whether they are a trad route, or a sport route. The table to the right gives a rough comparison of the sport and trad grade with other international grading systems. Llanberis Pass The majority of the routes in the book are trad routes on which the gear is carried by the lead climber and is hand-placed. The Slate Quarries and the North Coast
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn Limestone have some sport routes where all the major protection comes from bolts fixed in the rock.
British Trad Grade Lliwedd and Gwynant 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1, E2, .... to E10). An overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained and a general indication of the level of Ogwen difficulty of the whole route. 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c,..... to 7b). The difficulty of the hardest single move, or short section. Carneddau Sport Grade The sport grade is a measure of how hard it is going to be to get up a certain section of rock. It makes no attempt to tell you
Tremadog how hard the hardest move is, nor how scary a route is.
Colour Coding Betws and Moelwyns The routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. The colour represents a level that a climber should be happy at, hence sport routes tend to be technically harder than the equivalent coloured trad routes because Route Lines Gogarth the climber doesn't need to worry about The route lines are also the protection. colour-coded to differentiate between sport and trad lines 1 - Up to Severe / Up to 4+ on the photo-topos. Mostly these should be good for
N.C. Limestone beginners and those wanting an easy life. Sport lines - Yellow dash Trad lines - White dash 2 - HS to HVS / 5 to 6a+ General ticking routes for those with more experience. 3 Mid WalesMid - E1 to E3 / 6b to 7a Routes for the experienced climber. 3 4 4 - E4 or 7a+ and above The really hard stuff. www.highsports.co.uk The Climbers Shop C o l e c t i n S p o r t s H i g h f e . N e s c l i f a t P e a r s o n J a m e s
Shrewsbury sy1 1xj 01743 231649 34 North Wales Climbing Bolting Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Du'r Clogwyn Lliwedd and Gwynant
Chris Parkin, one of the leading figures in the North Wales Bolt Fund, re-equipping his own routes on California Wall in the Slate Quarries. Photo: Mark Reeves Ogwen A significant number of routes covered in this book on the Slate and North Coast Limestone are bolted sport routes. The older routes that were climbed in the 1980s and 1990s have mostly all had their bolts replaced now but the maintenance work required is ongoing, particularly on the sea cliff crags where the salty air speeds up corrosion. Additionally, the easy sport climbing in the area has undergone a boom in Carneddau recent years in both the Slate Quarries, and on crags like Penmaen Head. All this effort has been led by some very active local climbers who have worked incredibly hard to create and maintain the routes.
How can you help? The main way everyone can help is by making a donation to the North Wales Bolt Fund. The simple Tremadog gesture of a £10 online donation each time you go clipping bolts in North Wales can go a long way to providing the necessary funding. If you want to get more involved then there is always a need for volunteers to help with the hard work. Bolting is a difficult and time-consuming activity. If you are an
Betws and Moelwyns experienced climber, or have a background in rope access, you could be a real asset to supporting the bolting effort in North Wales.
If you wish to place some bolts yourself, please contact either the BMC or the North Wales Bolt Fund first since they will be able to advise on bolting technique and local bolting ethics. It is important that all new bolts placed should be proper stainless steel bolts at least 10mm in diameter. For more information have a look at the BMC Better Bolts Campaign - www.thebmc.co.uk Gogarth To donate to the North Wales Bolt Fund go to www.ukboltfund.org N.C. Limestone
Support local bolting volunteers Mid WalesMid Rockfax supports the bolting efforts in North Wales by providing point-of-sale donations on the Rockfax website and making a financial contribution from sales made direct from the Rockfax website. UKBoltFund.org is maintained by UKClimbing/Rockfax. and anew stainless steelboltare visibleabove.Photo: JackGeldard - onLower PenTrwyn. Anoriginal bolt,probably placed inthe1980s, climbingI'veBeenaBad,Bad Boy (7c+)-page351 Jack Rattenbury Bolting North WalesClimbing North 35
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate Routes with a Top50 symbol are amongst the amongst are symbol Top50 with a Routes in the whole of North of their kind best routes than be no better may cases they In some Wales. routes are they in general but routes, star three imaginations and climbers' captured that have include a tried to have We ascents. coveted are in roughly The list is areas. and of grades spread of difficulty. order Top 50 Top Top 50 Top
North Wales North Climbing Wales
Great Wall (E4) - page Climbers on the second pitch of Great Wall 140 - on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu with the leader about to embark on the long move to the ledge above the overlap where things ease. Photo: Mark Glaister 36 36 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Ω 7b+ Ω 8a Ω 5 Ω 6b+ Ω 6c Ω Ω Ω 7a+ Ω Ω Ω E2 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E3 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E4 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E5 Ω Ω Ω E6 Ω E7 Ω Statement of YouthStatement Route 1(Castle InnQuarry) ofPearlsString Under theBoardwalk . Axle Attack . Night Glue . Homo Sapien Foulish, Goulish The Sun . . Comes theDervish The Moon Plumbline . Silly Arete West Buttress Eliminate Stroll On The Boldest . New Dimensions. Great Wall Cream The Axe . Vulcan Resurrection Fingerlicker The Skull . Poetry Pink Central Sadness Right Wall Sexual Salami . Chain Gang . Citadel . Cockblock Lord oftheFlies The Cad Alien/Positron Strawberries Route Shrike Vector Left Wall . . Ten Degrees North ...... This page,137. Action photo Cover . 349 . 341 . 343 . 107 . 217 . 122 . 43 . 15 . 16 . Page 354 348 340 365 342 344 306 235 247 236 280 235 290 247 247 326 355 321 334 360 232 340 289 149 140 144 123 147 144 129 Top 50 111 111 111 111 97 75 98 81 53 Ω Ω Ω Ω E1 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω HS Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω VS Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω HVS Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Diff Ω Ω Ω Ω HVD Ω Ω Ω Ω S Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω VDiff Ω Ω North WalesClimbing North Jelly Roll Cenotaph . Corner The Plum . The Groove (LlechDdu) Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird Mousetrap . Pull My Daisy . White Slab . . Excursion . The Strand Route Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate Curry/Micah Christmas The Cracks Direct Route (Glyder Fach) One Step intheClouds. Nest AreteHawk's . Mur yNiwl. Direct Route (DinasMot). Lavaredo A Dream of White Horses (ClogwynDu'rThe Corner Arddu) . Aardvark (GistDdu) Great-Bow Combination Diagonal Scratch Arete . Brant Direct . Cemetery Gates . Gogarth The Grooves (CyrnLas) Super Direct (DinasMot) Cyfrwy Arete Spiral Stairs . . Flying Buttress . . Will-o'-the-Wisp . Grooved Arete . Crackstone Rib Pinnacle Wall . The GambitClimb. Poor Man'sPeuterey . Tennis Shoe Lockwood's Chimney Hope Direct Route (Milestone Buttress) Amphitheatre Buttress . Pinnacle RibRoute . Outside EdgeRoute Main Wall (CyrnLas). Dhu WallCreagh ...... Action photo ...... 279, 283 218, 221. 245 . 163 . 200 . 117 . 238 . 113 . 377 . 170 . 101 . 200 . 127 . 225 . 26 . 12 . . Page 242 294 305 242 268 391 387 392 209 227 220 285 298 338 244 235 290 234 140 214 181 212 149 129 170 191 129 160 191 149 179 142 124 169 103 109 211 174 119 119 119 119 113 111 111 80 97 37
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 44 50 52 54 60 68 76 88 92 124 126 130 136 154 158 160 164 178 182 196 198 202 204 206 208 214 100 106 114 116 Page Summary The biggest crag in the Llanberis Pass and home to long and demanding The biggest crag in the Llanberis Pass and home to long and classic routes across the grades. Multi-pitch climbing at its very best. single-pitch A nice collection of outcrop-style buttresses featuring mainly routes on vertical rock. Mainly shady buttresses. A major mountain crag with a deserved reputation for tough multi-pitch traditional routes. Cold and exposed and usually in the shade. has an alpine feel and challenging route The biggest crag in North Wales finding. Additionally the Aderyn Bluffs offer great single-pitch climbing. The Great rock on mainly shorter multi-pitch climbs in an open setting. view from the crag is beautiful. An esoteric crag with two interesting and unique climbs. are more The East Face offers mountain cragging, and the lower crags and much shorter. novice friendly, A high and remote mountain crag that is rarely busy. climbs, along slab A classic area of mainly long multi-pitch lower-grade with some more-difficult and shorter lines. Generally shady. A great multi-pitch outing up a ridge. lower- Some classic, slightly esoteric routes for the more adventurous grade climber. Another remote and rarely visited mountain crag. A sunny and exposed crag. that has some One of the most infrequently-visited crags in North Wales nice low-grade extremes. A fine mountain crag with some intimidating lines on a huge gully wall, and a famous low-grade buttress climb. but features some great Extremes. A remote crag that needs time to dry, Very easy access and a good variety of angles. Both trad and sport. angles. Both good variety of access and a Very easy routes. slabs and a few sport Some traditionally-bolted few great sport routes. some big E-grades and a A hidden gem with sport climbs and some paradise. A good mix of easy A slab climber's more run-out pitches. lines here are well with harder routes, the lower-grade Although loaded worth seeking out. easiest route is HVS and the best routes Lots of immaculate slabs. The are in the lower E-grades. and steeper sport climbs. All are on A mix of high-grade, run-out slabs Slate's defining features. fantastic rock and it is one of the in the Llanberis Pass, many of the One of the more overlooked crags Often wet. routes are steep and sustained. It is to access, and justifiably popular. The easiest Llanberis Pass crag upwards on vertical rock. home to many routes from VS rock than its neighbours but it More exposed and with less reliable from Severe upwards. features many excellent routes Pass, with steep and sustained wall The jewel in the crown of Llanberis classics. and crack climbing on the numerous amazing routes that seem more A steep and tough crag with some suggest. exposed than their length might walls. A fantastic collection of buttresses, with both slabs and steeper Most of the routes are multi-pitch. Shady for most of the time. the routes High mountain multi-pitch cragging set in an isolated location, are tough for the grades and need respect. tions X Restric- Tidal $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * * * * Weather Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are restricted / are tidal / are restricted - are routes some of the means that only symbol Faded Sun } U Q Y R Y T Y Y Y Y U T { { U { { E E E E E E E W W W W W 1 min 15 min 18 min 20 - 60 min 20 - 40 min 55 min 20 min 40 min 55 min 75 min 5 - 10 min 30 - 35 min 10 min 5 min 10 min 20 min 20 - 30 min 60 min 40 min 15 - 20 min 90 - 120 min 30 - 60 min 5 min 15 min 10 - 45 min 60 min 18 - 20 min 18 - 20 min 20 min 20 min Approach S D S S S S S S S F S S S D S S S S S S S S S S S A A A S F ------3 1 2 1 1 1 3 3 2 7 1 1 1 7 1 4 1 11 10 10 15 E4 upwards 7a+ upwards 7a+ 3 ------6 1 4 6 2 9 6 7 6 7 2 9 4 4 3 3 3 8 1 14 19 12 20 E1 to E3 E1 to 6b to 7a 6b to - - - - - 2 6 3 2 2 3 9 7 3 9 2 1 4 6 1 1 8 6 2 2 1 7 18 12 29 5 to 6a+ 5 to HS to HVS HS to ------2 1 6 1 4 2 2 2 4 5 4 1 2 11 23 up to S up to up to 4+ up to 8 4 3 3 15 31 23 Sport Routes 5 3 1 4 4 7 5 6 7 5 2 8 8 3 11 13 13 18 19 15 16 13 16 12 19 16 15 Trad Trad 38 38 35 Routes Destination Planner Destination
Llech Ddu Craig yr Ogof Craig Craig yr Ysfa Craig Lloer Craig Mianog Carreg Braich Ty Du Ty Braich y Filiast Carnedd Glyder Fach Glyder Idwal Cwm Clogwyn y Bustach Tryfan Lliwedd Clogwyn y Wenallt Cwm Glas Bach Cwm Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Dinas Mot Clogwyn y Ddysgl Las Cyrn Dinas Cromlech Scimitar Ridge Clogwyn y Grochan Wastad Carreg Rainbow Slab Area Rainbow Slab Ddu Craig Serengeti Area Serengeti QuarryVivian California Australia Bus Stop QuarryStop Bus Dali's Hole
Carneddau Ogwen Valley Ogwen Lliwedd Llanberis Pass Llanberis Slate 38 38 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Carneddau Ogwen Valley Lliwedd Llanberis Pass Slate Serengeti Area Australia California Dali's Hole Bus Stop Quarry Llech Ddu yr YsfaCraig Craig yrOgof Carreg Mianog Craig Lloer Carnedd yFiliast Braich TyDu Cwm Idwal Glyder Fach Tryfan yBustach Clogwyn y Wenallt Clogwyn Lliwedd Arddu Du'r Clogwyn Cwm Bach Glas Cyrn Las yDdysgl Clogwyn Mot Dinas Ridge Scimitar CromlechDinas Carreg Wastad yGrochan Clogwyn Craig Ddu SlabRainbow Area Vivian Quarry Destination Planner Routes 38 35 38 Trad 16 15 13 13 19 18 15 16 19 12 16 13 11 3 8 8 3 5 7 4 4 1 2 5 7 6 5 Routes Sport Sport 23 31 15 3 3 4 8 up to 4+ up to S 23 11 2 2 1 6 1 5 2 2 2 1 4 4 4 ------HS to HVS 5 to 6a+ 29 18 12 4 3 6 2 6 8 1 1 6 1 2 9 3 7 9 3 2 2 7 1 2 2 - - - - - 6b to 7a E1 to E3 20 19 14 12 4 4 2 6 1 6 3 3 9 2 7 6 7 6 9 1 8 3 4 ------3 7a+ upwards E4 upwards 15 10 10 11 1 2 1 3 1 1 1 7 2 3 3 1 1 1 1 7 4 ------S S S S S S D S S S S S S S S S S S S D S S S F S F S A A A Approach 20min 20min 10min 30-35min 5-10min 18-20min 18-20min 75min 55min 40min 20min 55min 20-40min 20-60min 60min 10-45min 15min 5min 30-60min 90-120min 15-20min 40min 60min 20-30min 20min 10min 5min 18min 15min 1min W W W W W E E E E E E E R { { U { { Y Q } U T U Y Y Y Y T Y Sun Faded symbol means that only some ofthe routes -are restricted /are tidal Weather * * * * * * * * $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Tidal Restric- X tions finding. Additionally the Aderyn Bluffsoffergreatsingle-pitchclimbing. finding. AdditionallytheAderyn The biggestcraginNorthWales hasanalpinefeelandchallengingroute traditional routes.Coldandexposedusuallyintheshade. reputationfortoughmulti-pitch A majormountaincragwithadeserved routes onverticalrock.Mainlyshadybuttresses. A nicecollectionofoutcrop-stylebuttressesfeaturingmainlysingle-pitch best. classic routesacrossthegrades.Multi-pitchclimbingatitsvery The biggestcragintheLlanberisPassandhometolongdemanding are toughforthegradesandneedrespect. High mountainmulti-pitchcraggingsetinanisolatedlocation,theroutes Most oftheroutesaremulti-pitch.Shadyformosttime. A fantasticcollectionofbuttresses,withbothslabsandsteeperwalls. exposed thantheirlengthmightsuggest. A steepandtoughcragwithsomeamazingroutesthatseemmore and crackclimbingonthenumerousclassics. The jewelinthecrownofLlanberisPass,withsteepandsustainedwall features manyexcellentroutesfromSevereupwards. More exposedandwithlessreliablerockthanitsneighboursbutit home tomanyroutesfromVSupwardsonverticalrock. The easiestLlanberisPasscragtoaccess,andjustifiablypopular. Itis routes aresteepandsustained.Oftenwet. One ofthemoreoverlookedcragsinLlanberisPass,many fantastic rockanditisoneoftheSlate'sdefiningfeatures. A mixofhigh-grade,run-outslabsandsteepersportclimbs.Allareon are inthelowerE-grades. Lots ofimmaculateslabs.TheeasiestrouteisHVSandthebestroutes worth seekingout. Although loadedwithharderroutes,thelower-grade linesherearewell more run-outpitches. A slabclimber'sparadise.goodmixofeasysportclimbsandsome A hiddengemwithsomebigE-gradesandafewgreatsportroutes. Some traditionally-boltedslabsandafewsportroutes. Very easyaccessandagoodvarietyofangles.Bothtradsport. A remotecrag thatneedstimetodry, but featuressomegreat Extremes. and afamouslow-grade buttressclimb. A finemountaincragwith someintimidatinglinesonahugegullywall, nice low-gradeextremes. One ofthemostinfrequently-visited cragsinNorthWales thathassome A sunnyandexposedcrag. Another remoteandrarelyvisitedmountaincrag. grade climber. Some classic,slightlyesotericroutesforthe more adventurouslower- A greatmulti-pitchoutinguparidge. with somemore-difficultandshorterlines.Generallyshady. A classicareaofmainlylongmulti-pitchlower-grade slabclimbs,along A highandremotemountaincragthatisrarelybusy. novice friendly, andmuchshorter. The EastFaceoffersmountaincragging,andthelowercragsaremore An esotericcragwithtwointerestinganduniqueclimbs. view fromthecragisbeautiful. Great rockonmainlyshortermulti-pitchclimbsinanopensetting.The Summary Page 214 208 206 204 202 198 196 182 178 164 160 158 154 136 130 126 124 116 114 106 100 60 54 52 50 44 92 88 76 68 39
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate 296 308 316 324 346 360 362 368 378 380 382 386 390 392 218 222 224 228 238 256 260 266 268 270 274 278 Page Summary Castell Helen is a good intro to sea-cliff climbing. The other crags are Castell Helen is a good intro to sea-cliff climbing. The other highly adventurous and committing on loose rock. Abseil approaches. than on the climbing A great inland crag with less-serious lower-grade neighbouring sea cliffs. just. A shorter and less intimidating version of Gogarth, but only that are A collection of high-quality single-pitch trad and sport routes Has various access restrictions. mostly roadside and often dry. routes A tidal sport crag with some of the UK's hardest and best sport and plenty of mid-grade lines. Can be greasy. hard A big cliff with an intimidating approach and aspect, but rewarding trad and sport-climbs. extremely A small, convenient crag composed of good rock with some popular sport pitches. Dries very quickly. easy to Lots of good single-pitch sport routes in the mid-grades. Popular, access and dries rapidly. outlook. The A remote and rarely-visited mountain cliff with a magnificent approach over boulders and deep heather is tough. surroundings. The out-of-the-way single-pitch venues set in beautiful Two climbs are all tough, but the rock is fine although it can be dirty. seaside town of venues - one sport and one trad - close to the Two Barmouth and its beaches. Good if the weather is bad in the hills. Adventurous multi-pitch mountain climbs in a wonderful setting. The routes need a long dry spell to come into condition. An cliff with one awesome column of rock that needs traffic to stay clean. Needs a long dry spell to come into condition. A tremendous mountain environment with one of the UK's finest ridge climbs. The views are expansive. An isolated crag that looks out across the Irish sea, with a few fantastic a few fantastic the Irish sea, with out across crag that looks An isolated spirit. an adventurous for those with easy routes - possibly crags, with a fantastic VDiff of the Tremadog The least popular the best hereabouts. across popular for a range of routes but still Tremadog, A quiet crag for rock. the grades on incredible to other Upper Tier of crags, from the novice-friendly A good selection aretes. areas dominated by slabs and more demanding A series of superb buttresses that hold The main event at Tremadog. across the grade range. many classic multi-pitch lines some wild climbing. Almost a Steep and uncompromising, expect roadside crag. there are some steep and sustained routes Although generally slabby, lichen and dries quickly after rain. here also. The rock is free from pitches. with short lower-grade A unique, slabby wave of rock valley with steep and sustained multi-pitch A hidden gem in a picturesque climbing. above Betws y Coed. A sheltered crag in the woods of brilliant hard trad routes. Set in a remote valley with a collection Unlikely to be busy. Adventurous single and multi-pitch sea cliff climbing with committing approaches. approaches and climbs. Some tidal requirements and abseil tions X X X X X Restric- Tidal % % % % $ $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * * * * * * * * * Weather Sun R Y U { R { R } } U Y R } E E E E E E E E E W W W W Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are restricted / are tidal / are restricted - are routes some of the means that only symbol Faded
3 - 4 min 25 min 40 min 30 - 60 min 5 - 15 min 25 min 40 min 50 min 4 - 6 min 1 min 10 - 20 min 10 min 12 min 20 min 25 min 20 - 25 min 20 min 1 - 2 min 1 min 45 min 10 min 15 min 10 - 15 min 4 - 5 min 8 min 10 min Approach G S S S S S S S S S S S S S F A S A F G G F S S S S ------1 1 7 1 1 4 8 2 4 5 1 9 15 63 33 E4 upwards 7a+ upwards 7a+ - - - - 1 4 4 1 3 3 1 2 2 7 6 1 2 4 9 10 18 15 12 23 28 41 E1 to E3 E1 to 6b to 7a 6b to - - - - - 2 2 1 1 8 2 3 7 6 3 4 7 7 3 2 2 17 19 16 15 15 5 to 6a+ 5 to HS to HVS HS to ------1 2 3 7 1 9 1 1 3 4 7 5 2 up to S up to up to 4+ up to 4 4 41 69 48 20 Sport Routes 7 3 3 2 2 2 2 3 3 4 8 4 6 6 5 7 10 14 19 Trad Trad 50 59 29 33 36 48 Routes Destination Planner Destination
Gist Ddu Idris Cadair Barmouth Cywarch Craig Simdde Ddu Y Grisiau and Llechau Mawr Castle Inn QuarryCastle Head Penmaen Lower Trwyn Lower Pen y Gwynt Castell Rhoscolyn Upper Trwyn Pen Holyhead Mountain North and Main Cliff Stack South Stack Clogwyn Cyrau yr EryrCraig Craig Craig y Tonnau Alltrem Carreg Carreg Hyll Drem Carreg MoelwynsThe Pant Ifan Pant Bwlch y Moch Craig y Castell Craig Cwm Silyn Cwm y Gesail Craig
Mid Wales Mid The Ormes The Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns and Betws Tremadog 40 40 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Mid Wales The Ormes Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Pant Ifan Craig yCastell Craig yGesail Cwm Silyn Cadair Idris Ddu Gist Craig Cywarch Barmouth andLlechauMawrY Grisiau Simdde Ddu Penmaen Head Castle Quarry Inn Castell yGwynt PenLower Trwyn Pen Trwyn Upper Rhoscolyn Holyhead Mountain Stack South StackCliff andMain North Craig yrEryr CyrauClogwyn Carreg Alltrem y TonnauCraig The Moelwyns Carreg Drem Hyll Bwlch yMoch Destination Planner Routes 33 29 59 48 36 50 Trad 14 10 19 6 4 7 5 6 2 2 3 8 4 3 3 2 2 3 7 Routes Sport Sport 20 48 69 41 4 4 up to 4+ up to S 2 1 7 3 1 9 1 5 7 3 1 2 4 ------HS to HVS 5 to 6a+ 17 15 16 19 15 4 3 6 7 3 2 8 1 2 2 3 1 2 2 7 7 - - - - - 6b to 7a E1 to E3 23 41 28 18 12 15 10 4 4 1 1 1 6 7 2 2 1 3 3 9 2 4 - - - - 7a+ upwards E4 upwards 33 63 15 1 1 7 9 1 1 1 5 2 8 4 4 ------S S S S S S G F G G F A S A F S S S S S S S S S S S Approach 4-5min 10min 8min 50min 40min 25min 5-15min 30-60min 40min 1min 1-2min 20min 20-25min 25min 20min 12min 10min 10-20min 1min 4-6min 10-15min 15min 10min 45min 25min 3-4min
Faded symbol means that only some ofthe routes -are restricted /are tidal W W W W E E E E E E E E E R Y U } } R { R { } R U Y Sun Weather * * * * * * * * * * * * * $ $ $ $ $ $ $ % % % % Tidal Restric- X X X X X tions mostly roadsideandoftendry. Hasvariousaccessrestrictions. A collectionofhigh-qualitysingle-pitchtradandsportroutesthatare A shorterandlessintimidatingversionofGogarth,butonlyjust. neighbouring seacliffs. A greatinlandcragwithless-seriouslower-grade climbingthanonthe highly adventurousandcommittingonlooserock.Abseilapproaches. Castell Helenisagoodintrotosea-cliffclimbing.Theothercragsare approaches andclimbs.Sometidalrequirementsabseilapproaches. Adventurous singleandmulti-pitchseacliffclimbingwithcommitting Unlikely tobebusy. Set inaremotevalleywithcollectionofbrillianthardtradroutes. A shelteredcraginthewoodsaboveBetwsyCoed. climbing. A hiddengeminapicturesquevalleywithsteepandsustainedmulti-pitch A unique,slabbywaveofrockwithshortlower-grade pitches. here also.Therockisfreefromlichenanddriesquicklyafterrain. Although generallyslabby, therearesomesteepandsustainedroutes roadside crag. Steep anduncompromising,expectsomewildclimbing.Almosta many classicmulti-pitchlinesacrossthegraderange. The maineventatTremadog. Aseriesofsuperbbuttressesthathold more demandingareasdominatedbyslabsandaretes. A goodselectionofcrags,fromthenovice-friendlyUpperTier toother the gradesonincrediblerock. A quietcragforTremadog, butstillpopularforarangeofroutesacross the besthereabouts. The leastpopularoftheTremadog crags,withafantasticVDiff-possibly easy routesforthosewithanadventurousspirit. An isolatedcragthatlooksoutacrosstheIrishsea,withafewfantastic climbs. The viewsareexpansive. A tremendous mountainenvironment withoneoftheUK's finestridge spelltocomeintocondition. Needs alongdry An cliffwithoneawesome columnofrockthatneedstraffictostay clean. spelltocomeinto condition. routes needalongdry setting.The Adventurous multi-pitchmountainclimbsina wonderful Barmouth anditsbeaches.Goodiftheweather isbadinthehills. Two venues -onesportandtradclosetotheseasidetownof climbs arealltough,buttherockisfinealthough itcanbedirty. Two out-of-the-way single-pitchvenuessetinbeautifulsurroundings.The approach overbouldersanddeepheatheristough. A remoteandrarely-visitedmountaincliffwithamagnificentoutlook.The access anddriesrapidly. Lots ofgoodsingle-pitchsportroutesinthemid-grades.Popular, easyto quickly.popular sportpitches.Driesvery A small,convenientcragcomposedofgoodrockwithsomeextremely trad andsport-climbs. A bigcliffwithanintimidatingapproachandaspect,butrewardinghard and plentyofmid-gradelines.Canbegreasy. A tidalsportcragwithsomeoftheUK'shardestandbestroutes Summary Page 228 224 222 218 392 390 386 382 380 378 368 362 360 346 324 316 308 296 278 274 270 268 266 260 256 238 41
Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate