1 North Wales Climbs Slate Mark Reeves Jack Geldard Mark Glaister A climbing guidebook to selected routes on the crags of North Wales Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Lliwedd Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Edited by Stephen Horne and Alan James All uncredited photography by Rockfax Other photography as credited Printed in Europe on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd. Betws and Moelwyns Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk) All maps by ROCKFAX Gogarth Published by ROCKFAX in November 2013 © ROCKFAX 2013, 2010 rockfax.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, N.C. Limestone stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any Cover photo: Alexandra Schweikart, belayed by Christopher Igel, means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without on Left Wall (E2) - page 111 - on Dinas Cromlech. Photo: Jack prior written permission of the copyright owner. Geldard A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. This page: Simon Lake on Bochlwyd Eliminate (HVS) - page Mid Wales 177 - on Bochlwyd Buttress in Ogwen. Photo: Mark Glaister ISBN 978 1 873341 82 7 North Wales Climbs 3 Ian Wilson and Jack Geldard on the last pitch of Hardd (E2) - page 257 - on Carreg Hyll Drem. Photo: Mark Glaister The Crags Slate................................ 42 Slate Bus Stop Quarry ..................... 44 Dali's Hole.......................... 50 California........................... 52 Australia ........................... 54 Serengeti Area ...................... 60 Vivian Quarry ....................... 68 Rainbow Slab Area ................... 76 Llanberis Pass ....................... 86 Llanberis Pass Craig Ddu .......................... 88 Clogwyn y Grochan .................. 92 Carreg Wastad ..................... 100 Dinas Cromlech .................... 106 Scimitar Ridge.......................114 Dinas Mot ..........................116 Clogwyn y Ddysgl ................... 124 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Cyrn Las .......................... 126 Cwm Glas Bach . 130 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.................. 134 Lliwedd and Gwynant Valley . 152 Lliwedd ........................... 154 Clogwyn y Wenallt . 158 Clogwyn y Bustach .................. 160 and Gwynant Lliwedd Ogwen ............................. 162 Tryfan ............................ 164 Glyder Fach........................ 178 Cwm Idwal ........................ 182 Ogwen Ogwen Outliers ..................... 196 Carneddau..........................200 Craig Lloer ........................ 202 Carreg Mianog ..................... 204 Craig yr Ogof ...................... 206 Craig yr Ysfa ....................... 208 Carneddau Llech Ddu ......................... 214 Tremadog........................... 216 Cwm Silyn......................... 218 Craig y Gesail ...................... 222 Craig y Castell...................... 224 Pant Ifan .......................... 228 Tremadog Bwlch y Moch ...................... 238 Carreg Hyll Drem . 256 Betws y Coed and the Moelwyns . 258 Introduction........................... 4 The Moelwyns...................... 260 The Book and Smartphones............. 6 Craig y Tonnau ..................... 266 Symbol, Map and Topo Key ............. 7 Carreg Alltrem ...................... 268 Rockfax.com and UKClimbing.com........ 8 Clogwyn Cyrau ..................... 270 Other Guidebooks.................... 10 Clogwyn yr Eryr . 274 Betws and Moelwyns Advertisers ......................... 13 Gogarth ............................ 276 Acknowledgements................... 15 North Stack and Main Cliff ............ 278 North Wales Logistics . 16 South Stack........................ 296 Tourist Information and Accommodation... 18 Holyhead Mountain.................. 308 Gogarth Weather ........................... 20 Rhoscolyn ......................... 316 Climbing Shops, Pubs and Cafes ........ 22 North Coast Limestone . 322 Climbing Walls, Guides and Instructors ... 24 Upper Pen Trwyn.................... 324 North Wales Climbing . 26 Lower Pen Trwyn.................... 346 Mountain Rescue and Access .......... 28 Castell y Gwynt..................... 360 Gear .............................. 30 Castle Inn Quarry . 362 Grades ............................ 32 Penmaen Head ..................... 368 N.C. Limestone Bolting............................. 34 Mid Wales .......................... 376 Top 50 ............................. 36 Simdde Ddu ....................... 378 Destination Planner Tables ............. 38 Y Grisiau and Llechau Mawr .......... 380 The Crags ........................42-393 Barmouth ......................... 382 Route Index ......................... 394 Craig Cywarch...................... 386 Crag Index .......................... 399 Gist Ddu .......................... 390 Mid Wales General Index and Area Map ...........400 Cadair Idris . 392 4 North Wales Climbs Introduction North Wales is one of the most important climbing areas of the UK, with a long and rich history Slate flowing back to the early part of last century when the first climbs, often long and committing mountain routes, were pioneered in what must have seemed like a true wilderness landscape. Llanberis Pass The post-war era brought a new boom in rock climbing, led of course by the likes of Brown and Whillans, who between them are responsible for Clogwyn Du'r Arddu quite a few of the adventures documented within these pages. The Anglesey sea cliffs came to prominence in the 1960s, then the twin booms of Slate and North Coast Limestone brought bolts and sport climbs (some more sporty than others!) Lliwedd and Gwynant Lliwedd in the 1980s. Since then it has been harder and harder climbs added to the steep walls and sea cliffs of the area and what we are left with now is a wide spread of routes from easy mountain slabs to terrifying Gogarth monsters and everything in between. Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales A party making the most of a fine late afternoon on Spectre (HVS) - page 95 - at Clogwyn y Grochan in the Llanberis Pass. In the background Dinas Mot is just coming into the sun. Photo: Mark Glaister Introduction North Wales Climbs 5 The diversity of the rock and the climbing styles in North Wales is phenomenal. This guidebook features 8 different rock types and 56 different crags, each with its own character, feel and of course history. Since the bolt-boom of the 1980s and the rebolting efforts of recent years, North Wales now offers fine Slate sport climbing to sit alongside its world class traditional adventures. And it is these adventures that are the biggest draw to the area. Nowhere in the UK is there such a concentration of classic traditional rock climbs, of all grades and of such variety. There is also the weather. Yes the weather! Despite having areas of high rainfall, North Wales has the beauty of a huge variety of mountain and coastal cliffs, giving a broad choice of aspect, altitude, angle and ambience. This often offers climbers multiple options should there be bad weather in one area. Llanberis Pass This book brings together the best on offer in this, perhaps the UK's finest climbing area. It has more than enough climbing to last most people several lifetimes, so start browsing through the pages, and get inspired to go out and climb, and experience North Wales in all its glory - truely one of the best climbing destinations in the world! Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Lliwedd Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales 6 North Wales Climbs The Book This book brings together the best climbing across North and Mid Wales. The previous Rockfax pocket- Slate guide to North Wales only covered routes in the mountain crags and Tremadog. This edition has been entirely re-worked with longer descriptions, many more routes, even bigger photo-topos and covering more areas like the Slate, Gogarth, North Coast Limestone and Mid Wales. It includes over 1000 routes across the grade range from trad Mod to E7 and sport 4 to 9a. Llanberis Pass As with all Rockfax books, each chapter includes many features to aid you in selecting and locating your chosen route. Our aim within the pages is that you should never have to turn more than a few pages to first get to the crag, then get to the buttress and finally locate the routes. All route descriptions are on the same page as their topo and listed from left-to-right. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu There are also many features to help choose suitable crags depending on specific weather conditions. You can select a crag from the crag tables on pages 38 to 41. Each topo also has crag characters for a quick glance check - see key to right. Lliwedd and Gwynant Lliwedd Take a photo of the route description Take a photo of the route topo which you Scan the QR code to use your phone to can then zoom in on. navigate to the parking Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Using your Smartphone with this Book We plan to have a fully-functioning app version of this guidebook available in the next year or so, but Gogarth until then, here are a couple of useful ways you can use your smartphone with this guidebook. This book is quite heavy, around 750g, which is probably heavier than your unloaded harness. If you don't want to carry it up the route then photograph the page, topo and/or description on your N.C. Limestone smartphone and leave the book at the base with the rest of your non-climbing gear - much lighter overall and you were probably carrying your phone up with you anyway. Navigation - Another way you can use your smartphone with