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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
The Balmoral Tartan
The Balmoral Tartan Introduction The Balmoral tartan (Fig 1) is said to have been designed in 1853 by Prince Albert, The Prince Consort, Queen Victoria's husband. It is unique in several respects: it is the only tartan known to have been designed by a member of the Royal Family; has a unique construction; and is reserved for members of the Royal Family. It is worn by HM The Queen and several members of the Royal Family but only with the Queen's permission. The only other approved wearers of the Balmoral tartan are the Piper to the Sovereign and pipers on the Balmoral Estate (estate workers and ghillies wear the Balmoral tweed). Fig 1. Specimen of the original Balmoral Tartan c1865. © The Author. There is some confusion over the exact date of the original design. In 1893 D.W. Stewarti wrote, ''Her Majesty the Queen has not only granted permission for its publication here, but has also graciously afforded information concerning its inception in the early years of the reign, when the sett was designed by the Prince Consort.'' Harrison (1968) ii states that both the Balmoral tartan and Tweed were designed by Prince Albert. Writing of the tartan specimen in Stewart’s Old & Rare Harrison noted that “The illustrations were all woven in fine silk which did not allow of (sic) the reproduction of the pure black and white twist effect of the original. Mr Stewart compromised by using shades of dull mauve as the nearest that his materials allowed. Thus, for generations the Balmoral was looked upon not as a pure grey scheme but as a scheme of very quiet mauves” (Fig 2). -
Kilts & Tartan
Kilts & Tartan Made Easy An expert insider’s frank views and simple tips Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes Founder, Scotweb Governor, Why YOU should wear a kilt, & what kind of kilt to get How to source true quality & avoid the swindlers Find your own tartans & get the best materials Know the outfit for any event & understand accessories This e-book is my gift to you. Please copy & send it to friends! But it was a lot of work, so no plagiarism please. Note my copyright terms below. Version 2.1 – 7 November 2006 This document is copyright Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes (c) 2006. It may be freely copied and circulated only in its entirety and in its original digital format. Individual copies may be printed for personal use only. Internet links should reference the original hosting address, and not host it locally - see back page. It may not otherwise be shared, quoted or reproduced without written permission of the author. Use of any part in any other format without written permission will constitute acceptance of a legal contract for paid licensing of the entire document, at a charge of £20 UK per copy in resultant circulation, including all consequent third party copies. This will be governed by the laws of Scotland. Kilts & Tartan - Made Easy www.clan.com/kiltsandtartan (c) See copyright notice at front Page 1 Why Wear a Kilt? 4 Celebrating Celtic Heritage.................................................................................................. 4 Dressing for Special Occasions.......................................................................................... -
Attire Tailoring Fine Formal Hire
Attire Tailoring fine formal hire www.attiretailoring.co.uk Here at Attire Tailoring we know more than anybody that it is so imperative to look and feel your outright best on this huge day. Getting everybody in co-ordinating outfits is simple with our broad hirewear assortment, accessible in pretty much every size. With top of the line formal outfits and coordinating accessories, you’ll discover all that you need to put your best self forward, with costs from just £35 per outfit. View our wide scope of styles and shading palettes on the web and build your look using our intelligent Outfit Builder. With our totally online service you can arrange everthing without the need to visit a store . With our online service, we’ll send you the style of your choice for a two day trial in your own home, months before the wedding. Plan your wedding rapidly and where needed with our online assistance. With over 20 years of hirewear experience everything you need is taken care of. The choice is yours... Hire is the flexible choice. It doesn’t matter if it’s 1 or 100 guests, we have the sizes to fit the whole party - even the little ones! Hire is the convenient choice. Your wedding party can be located any- where in the UK and we’ll make sure all outfits are delivered up to a full week before the function date. Travelling to the UK from abroad? We deliver to hotels too! Hire is the sustainable/ethical choice. Renting is recylcing. Go on! book your fitting atwww.attire-tailoring.co.uk *The Try On service is only available on selected months. -
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Historic Costuming Presented by Jill Harrison
Historic Southern Indiana Interpretation Workshop, March 2-4, 1998 Historic Costuming Presented By Jill Harrison IMPRESSIONS Each of us makes an impression before ever saying a word. We size up visitors all the time, anticipating behavior from their age, clothing, and demeanor. What do they think of interpreters, disguised as we are in the threads of another time? While stressing the importance of historically accurate costuming (outfits) and accoutrements for first- person interpreters, there are many reasons compromises are made - perhaps a tight budget or lack of skilled construction personnel. Items such as shoes and eyeglasses are usually a sticking point when assembling a truly accurate outfit. It has been suggested that when visitors spot inaccurate details, interpreter credibility is downgraded and visitors launch into a frame of mind to find other inaccuracies. This may be true of visitors who are historical reenactors, buffs, or other interpreters. Most visitors, though, lack the heightened awareness to recognize the difference between authentic period detailing and the less-than-perfect substitutions. But everyone will notice a wristwatch, sunglasses, or tennis shoes. We have a responsibility to the public not to misrepresent the past; otherwise we are not preserving history but instead creating our own fiction and calling it the truth. Realistically, the appearance of the interpreter, our information base, our techniques, and our environment all affect the first-person experience. Historically accurate costuming perfection is laudable and reinforces academic credence. The minute details can be a springboard to important educational concepts; but the outfit is not the linchpin on which successful interpretation hangs. -
View Lookbook
BEhiND thE COLLECtiON AUTUMN WINTER 17/18 Sands & Hall has rapidly become synonymous with luxury outerwear and timeless elegance. This collection 2 transforms classic tweeds from Britain and Ireland into 3 innovative and unique fashion forward pieces. THE FITTED CAPE: 4 5 THE FITTED CAPE: A fitted coat with cape overlay. Belted to accentuate the waist. Beautiful finishing with maroon piping, cotton binding and half lining. 6 7 RUBY BLUSH DAMSON WINE ASHEN BLACK MABEL STONE Harris Tweed Donegal Merino/Mohair Mix Harris Tweed Harris Tweed THE OVErsiZED COat: 8 9 THE OVErsiZED COat: An oversized coat with large collar and fold up cuffs. A key outerwear piece with an oversized and cosy fit. Fully lined with beautiful maroon piping. 10 11 MACEY SKY PINK LODEN TayLOR CLassiC ASH EN B L A C K Harris Tweed Loden Steiner Wool Donegal Tweed Harris Tweed THE thrOW CapE: 12 13 THE thrOW CapE: A diverse, multi-functional piece easily draped over the shoulders. Layers well with a multitude of styles for all seasons. Edged with cotton binding. 14 15 GREY HARPER RUBY BLUSH HEPBURN EARTH Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Harris Tweed THE ORIGINAL CAPE: 16 17 THE ORIGINAL CAPE: Our original and classic cape with double breasted leather buttons and high collar that can be worn up or styled down. Fully lined with beautiful maroon piping. 18 19 HEPBURN EARTH PINK HARPER DAMSON WINE MABEL STONE NAVY GRACE BRAXTON ASH Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Donegal Merino/Mohair Mix Harris Tweed Harris Tweed Harris Tweed THE BIKER JACKET: 20 21 THE BIKER JACKET: A classic biker jacket perfectly made from Harris Tweed with metal teeth zips and flat poppers. -
Baseball Caps
HILLS HATS WINTER LOOKBOOK 2019 TWEED HATS Eske Donegal English Luton Check English Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2540 2541 Navy, Black, Olive Brown, Grey S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Herefordshire Check English Wiltshire Houndstooth English Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2542 2544 Blue, Green Brown, Grey, Beige, Blue, Fawn S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Devon Houndstooth Swindon Houndstooth Lambswool Tweed Cheesecutter Lambswool English Tweed Cheesecutter 2552 2573 Blue, Rust Blue, Green, Wine, Fawn S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL 1 Chester Overcheck Hunston Overcheck Lambswool English Tweed Cheesecutter English Tweed Cheesecutter 2574 2554 Blue, Olive, Brown Black, Blue, Brown, Green S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Saxilby Overcheck English Glencoe Overcheck Lambswool Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2567 2537 Brown, Green Green, Mustard S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL Bingley Check Lambswool Bramford Houndstooth English Tweed Cheesecutter Tweed Cheesecutter 2551 2556 Olive, Blue Blue, Green S, M, L, XL, XXL S, M, L, XL, XXL 2 TWEED HATS Warrington Herringbone English Tweed Cheesecutter 2576 Charcoal, Brown, Khaki S, M, L, XL, XXL English Wool Tweed Patchwork Cheesecutter 300 Blue, Green, Brown S, M, L, XL, XXL Eske Donegal English Tweed 4 Piece Cheesecutter 2570 Black, Navy, Olive S, M, L, XL, XXL 3 Dartford Herringbone English Tweed 4 Piece Cheesecutter 2570 Black, Brown, Blue, Green S, M, L, XL, XXL Bingley Check English Tweed 7 Piece Cheesecutter 2571 Blue, Olive S, M, L, XL, XXL Warrington Herringbone -
[Tweed and Textiles from Early Times to the Present Day]
[Tweed and Textiles from Early Times to the Present Day] The crofting way of life as it was lived in the Calbost area occupied the time of the whole population; both male and female during the four seasons of the year in a fully diversified way of life. Their work alternated from agriculture, fishing, kelping, weaving and knitting, cattle and sheep etc. etc. Some of that work was seasonal and some work was carried on inside during the winter months when it was difficult to participate in outdoor work because of the weather and the long winter evenings. Distaff – ‘Cuigeal’ The manufacture of cloth on order to protect him from the elements was one of man’s most ancient occupations and spinning was carried out by the distaff and spindle from an early date, yet it is believed that the distaff is still in use in parts of the world today. The distaff was also used extensively in Lewis in times past. A distaff is simply a 3 ft x 1½ inch rounded piece of wood with about 8 inches of one end flattened in order to hold the wool on the outer end as the distaff protrudes out in front of the spinner as she held it under her arm with a tuft of wool at the end. The wool from the distaff was then linked to the spindle ‘Dealgan’ or ‘Fearsaid’ which is held in the opposite hand and given a sharp twist by the fingers at the top of the spindle, in order to put the twist in the yarn as the spindle rotates in a suspended position hanging from the head. -
Dress Like a Pilgrim a Procurement Guide by Mayflower Guard
DRESS LIKE A PILGRIM A Procurement Guide SEPTEMBER 29, 2018 THE MAYFLOWER GUARD General Society of Mayflower Descendants Dress Like a Pilgrim A Procurement Guide By Mayflower Guard As James Baker, noted Pilgrim historian, points out in his recent article in the Mayflower Journal 1 there is a major image problem associated with what clothing and apparel Pilgrims wore. The image of black clothing, buckles and blunderbusses persist in the public mind. To overcome this misperception and to assist in this effort to change public perceptions, the donning of appropriate garments representing what the Pilgrims actually wore should be a major objective for the commemoration of the 1 Baker, James W., Pilgrim Images III, Mayflower Journal Vol. 2, No. 1 [2017], pp 7-19 1 400th anniversary of the arrival of the Mayflower. We the Mayflower descendants need to Dress Like a Pilgrim and wear Pilgrim Appropriate Apparel (PAA). So, what did Pilgrim men and women wear? Fabrics In 17th Century England and in the Netherlands, there were two basic fabrics that were used for clothing, wool and linen. There was combination of wool and linen know has fustian corduroy that was also used, however finding this fabric today is almost impossible. Cotton while available was very rare and very expensive in the early 17th century. Colors We know that the Pilgrims wore a variety of colors in their clothing from probate records where the color of various clothing items were mentioned including the colors violet, blue, green.1,2 The color red was also listed. However, the reds that were used in the early 17th century were more of a brick red and a matter red which is a little more orange in nature than modern reds. -
Tweed Brochure
TWEED From our establishment in 1957, we have become one of the oldest exclusive manufacturers of commercial ooring in the United States. As one of the largest privately held mills, our FAMILY-OWNERSHIP provides a heritage of proven performance and expansive industry knowledge. Most importantly, our focus has always been on people... ensuring them that our products deliver the highest levels of BEAUTY, PERFORMANCE and DEPENDABILITY. (cover) Tweed Pleat, ashlar. (right) Tweed Stitch, ashlar. TWEED 3 Tweed Pleat, herringbone. Tweed Pleat, herringbone with Boucle Knot, ashlar. Tweed Pleat, herringbone. FIRETWEED & ICE 5 tweed 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 color 2978 color 2979 color 2980 color 2981 color 2982 color 2983 color 2984 color 2985 color 2986 stitch pleat hem needle tailor serge weft woolen measure style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 style 7083 color 2987 color 2988 color 2989 color 2990 color 2991 color 2992 color 2993 color 2994 selvage thread placket dart seam flannel thimble suit Tweed Hem, herringbone. TWEED 7 coordinating palette 1 2 3 4 6 8 5 7 Beyond the beauty of individual products, our flooring coordinates effortlessly with each other. This offering enables you to blend a range of designs with tonal simplicity to create palettes that reflect the demands of each unique space. 1 Tweed 7588 #7083 Stitch Modular 2 Modern Classics V5002 #1029 Annie LVT 3 Boucle 7081 #2703 Texture Modular 4 Fractured Plaid 7587 #2873 Calico Modular 5 Analog Mono 1822 #1555 Equivalent Kinetex 6 Legend V5010 #1059 Fiction LVT 7 Boucle 3081 #2703 Texture Broadloom 8 Stria 7585 #2741 Merino Modular Tweed Stitch, ashlar with Modern Classics Annie, ashlar. -
BED BANK County Is Declared a Disaster Area in Wake of Hurricane
Weather ~" Distribution Fair today; high about 70. BED BANK Today Cloudy tonight, low 60. Chance of rain tomorrow; high, 60s. 16,250 MONDAY THROUGH TttlDAY-EST. Wl See weather and tides page 2, 35 C P E E K VOL. 83, NO. 53 Iisucd Dally, Monday through Friday, entered as Second Clasi Matter RED BANK, N. J., THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 1960 7c PER COPY R Y S, F R PAGE ONE at the Post OHlce at Red Bank. N. J., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Soviet Attack County Is Declared On Dag Poses A Disaster Area In Crisis for UN Wake of Hurricane UNITED NATIONS, N. Y. (AP)-.The United Nations faced a major crisis today as a result of a slashing Soviet attack on Secre- tary General Dag Hammarskjold and his Congo policies. Officials Inspect Damage, A wide-open break was threatened virtually on the eve ol Soviet Premier Nikita S. Khrushchev's appearance here. The Western powers, led by Ethel Plan U.S., State Aid Bills the United States, prepared to rally to Hammarskjold's sup- Three major developments took place yesterday AF Finds in the aftermath of Hurricane Donna. port in another round of Se- •Is. New curity Council meetings begin- Rep. James C. Auchincloss toured scenes of storm ning this morning on the cha- destruction in the Bayshore, and announced that Mon- otic Congo situation. Missing The Soviet attack, more bitter Threat mouth County has been declared a disaster area, along than any ever made by a big with Atlantic, Cape May and Ocean Counties.