Volume 19 – Issue 1 march 2011 In this Issue Team USA Wins at Sigep Bread Cup 2 Notes from the Chair By dara reimers Team Coach and Owner of The Bread Shack, Auburn, ME 4 Guild News Bread Bakers Guild Team USA has returned victorious from the 5th International Sigep Bread Cup A Tribute to Craig Ponsford 2011 (http://en.sigep.it/) held in Rimini, Italy, on January 22-26, 2011! In addition to first place

12 Regional Events overall, Team USA won the Traditional Bread Category with the Walnut Levain developed by Breadville USA 2011 Michael Rhoads. The Sigep competition team, drawn from the nine-member Team USA, consisted 13 Guild News of Harry Peemoeller, David DeCesare, John Tredgold, and Michael Rhoads. Each team member was

Website Update responsible for one of four categories: Harry, as Captain, was a member of the jury and created the 14 World’s Fair of Bread 2010 Artistic Piece; David created the Pilgrim Bread for Cake or Baked Dessert; JT created Loli Bread for German Baking the Healthy Bread; and Michael created the prize-winning Traditional Bread.

16 Breadville USA The Wonders of Brioche Preparation and Practice The road to Rimini began weeks before the Our main concerns were the final presentation 19 Regional Events competition, in Montpelier, Vermont. Each of the products to the jury, the product San Rafael Gathering team member brought his formulas and pro- for the public vote, and what constituted 20 Technical Article cesses to the team practice at New England the Cake category. It was determined that Baking 101: Technology Culinary Institute (NECI) in early January. each product would have to be plated for of Ingredients While the snow fell, we worked over the rules judging, a new concept for the team and quite of the competition and had a lengthy conver- different from the Louis Lesaffre Cup and the 23 Team Formula sation via Skype with Brett Noy, a Guild mem- Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, where Pacific Breeze ber, who had competed at the Sigep Bread consistency, volume, and weight are major 24 Technical Article Cup with Team Australia in previous years. criteria. With 50% of the score coming from West Coast Whole Grains the public tasting, Brett emphasized putting careful consideration into pleasing the crowd, and he made some suggestions. The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading Continued on page 6 American educational resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape the knowledge and skills of the artisan baking community David DeCesare, through education. Bread John Tredgold, Lines, the newsletter of Michael Rhoads, The Bread Bakers Guild of and Harry America, is published four Peemoeller times per year.

PHOTO: dara reimers notes from the chair

have been asked many times over the During Craig Ponsford’s and Abe Faber’s I f t e to o f s lveig t esy years why I’m a baker. This question is tenures as Chair and Vice Chair of o ur one of my favorites (and I’m not being the Board, The Guild has focused on sarcastic). It tells me that what I do increasing the quality of our services. captures the imagination enough to Bread Lines has become a magazine, we : c P hoto elicit questions, rather than causing eye- have made a commitment to offer 10- glazing boredom. The other reason I love 14 classes per year all over the country, it is because I get to give my answer: I’m a and we are working to ensure that baker because I love bakers. Camp Bread continues in some kind of sustainable form. My goal is to maintain Yes, of course, I love everything about the this trajectory of detailed commitment work. But if bakers were a bunch of jerks, increase the fun factor for us on the Board to quality, and hopefully to involve many there’s no way I would choose to spend and for some willing-and-able members, more members in this process. my working (and quite a few leisure) I believe we’ll be able to do something hours with them. And yes, of course, there You’ve heard it said that this is a pretty interesting in the coming years. are jerky bakers. And there are perfectly volunteer-run organization, and the Board So, that’s the goal and the point of this lovely bakers who have jerky moments. of Directors is a working Board. I can’t whole exercise – to learn a thing or But fundamentally, the group of people I stress how wonderful and necessary this is two, meet some fellow bakers, and work have been privileged to associate with is – that community I spoke of earlier doesn’t together to make sure The Guild continues generous and supportive, and I’m always just come from paying dues; it comes from to be a healthy community. On behalf of thrilled to be in your company. people getting together and working to the Board of Directors, I can say that we reach a common goal of better baking As I step with a bit of trepidation into are honored to be a part of this all, and everywhere. Craig’s position as Chair of the Board we’re all looking forward to doing great of Directors, I have been thinking about The Board of Directors has decided that and fun things together. what The Guild is all about, and what this is the year we make a concentrated Solveig Tofte has been baking since 1999. the current Board of Directors can do to effort to involve more members in our She worked as the head baker at Turtle continue to foster its identity and growth. committees – it’s a goal every Board Bread in Minneapolis, MN, from 2000- Our mission is all about education, and has had every year, but the band-width 2010 and was the team captain of Bread the very delightful outcome of our classes and infrastructure were previously not Bakers Guild Team USA 2008, which and gatherings is that we have developed in place to make this possible. So now, competed at the Coupe du Monde de la a strong community of bakers. This may thanks to the fact that Craig and Abe Boulangerie in Paris. Solveig and her seem completely obvious, but I firmly have established a strong and functioning husband and 6 year old daughter have believe that this is our greatest asset and framework, we are able to explore this just opened a bakery café, Sun Street that it bears much consideration. idea more thoroughly. Breads, also in Minneapolis. Her term as Thanks to our generous donors, our active I believe that you have received an Chair of the Guild’s Board of Directors members, and our extended network of e-mail from The Guild office asking for began on January 1, 2011. friends, we are able to accomplish so any specific skills you might wish to many exciting things. The work with Bread offer. Please respond! Or file it away and Bakers Guild Team USA broadens our respond when you have more time. And base of knowledge and creates strong ties this should absolutely not be a burden or to the international baking community, an obligation – everyone gives so much the classes we teach keep us all energized already, and we all have hectic lives. But and allow for great fellowship, and I know that, for me, getting involved with SOLVEIG TOFTE Board Chair and the diverse opportunities pursued the Guild has expanded my world and Owner of Sun Street Breads by individual members makes this has kept me excited about what I do. And Minneapolis, MN community what it is – vibrant, interesting, in our talks with Guild members around and engaged. the country, we hear repeatedly “I’m really good at that. I’d love to help!” So, to

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GUILD news Thanks to our Donors

The Bread Bakers Guild of America gratefully recognizes its 2010-2012 fundraising partners for their generosity.

Platinum Partner ($120,000) Hearth Society ($1,980) Guild Friends (Up to $389) General Mills, Inc. AIB International Tim Andrews Bread Alone Anonymous Neale and Marian Creamer Lorna Baker-Monroe

Gold Partner ($60,000) Euro Pane Bakery Frank Basich King Arthur Flour Co. Labriola Baking Company George Blanford San Francisco Baking Institute Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division Carol Brownson Le Petit Outre Breads Marsha De Angelis New French Bakery Dewey Doughberman

Silver Partner ($36,000) Niedlov's Breadworks Eden Valley Bakers California Raisin Marketing Board Udi's Bread Jessie Foster Lesaffre Yeast Corporation Michael Gesik Couche Club ($990-$1,979) Gail Goetsch Bakehouse Bread Rhoda Gordon Bronze Partner ($18,000) David Bergman James W. Hatfield III Baking Buyer Frank Carollo Hot Bagel Company Kemper Bakery Systems of the Certified Foods Inc. Melina Kelson-Podolsky WP Bakery Group Dawn Food Products Craig Ponsford Modern Baking Erika Record LLC Patricia Kennedy Pastry & Baking North America Jason and Linda Gollan John Kino Progressive Baker/Cargill Griffin’s Bakery Galway Ireland Paul Krebs Orlando Baking Company John and Laura Kvasnosky Team Alliance ($6,000) Carol Robson Larry Lobe BEMA Truckee Sourdough Company Joan McConville Seven Stars Bakery Paige Meier Baker’s Bunch ($390-$989) Benjamin Miller Artisan Circle ($3,600) Alessio Ambruso Richard Miscovich The Acme Bread Company Anonymous Murray Hollow Bakers Albemarle Baking Company Buono’s Bakery Barbara Oberlin Allied Bakery Equipment Company Inc. Ann F. Burgunder Christian Oertel Amy’s Bread Abram Faber & Christy Timon Barbara A. Oletzke Breadsmith Harvey Hanoian Maria A. Paniagua Chabaso Bakery Dave Krishock Harry Peemoeller Clear Flour Bread Red Hen Baking Company Lewis Perlmutter ConAgra Mills Edward Short Rebecca and Dmitri Robbins Charles and Joyce Esfeld SoNo Baking Company Sandwich Isle Bread Company Grand Central Baking Company Standard Baking Company Joan Schiller Sasa-Demarle Inc. Solveig Tofte Slow Rise Bakery Tom Cat Bakery Inc. Ray Werner Scott Tycer Tree-Top Baking Becky Woehrle Hans van der Maarel Village Bakery Cafe Jeffrey Yankellow Zingerman’s Bakehouse

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A T r i bu t e t o By Abe Faber Guild Board Member and Co-Owner of Clear Flour Bread, Brookline, MA  Craig Ponsford ......

The last day of 2010 marked the that itself did not survive the economic full speed ahead,” school of thought. close of Craig Ponsford’s nine realities of its time, yet spawned a Simply put, he inspired us to plan for a years of service as Chairman of the generation of educators and body of more ambitious agenda than ever. He curricula that form the basis of artisan set an unwavering standard: every year Board of the Bread Bakers Guild baking education in America today. The we needed to do more than the year of America. It also ended his 15- early years also focused on the formation before, better than the year before. He year tenure as a Board member. and training of a United States Baking made decisions based on member needs Craig is both the longest serving Team to compete in the international and quality of programming, never on Board member in the history of Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, and what was expedient. He was a leader the development of a nationwide network who always ignited a spark under a new our organization and our longest of bakers who were eagerly looking to end project. We have never looked back. serving Board Chair. their isolation from others as they strove During Craig’s tenure as Chairman, The to educate themselves about the highest Having served with Craig as the Vice Guild ramped up regional events, tours of possible quality traditional artisan baking Chair for many years, I would like to mills and farms, and Guildhall Gatherings knowledge and techniques. thank him publicly by speaking a little around the country, from a handful a to the enormous positive impact that his When Craig took over the chairmanship year to a dozen or more. We ran two years of service have had on The Guild. of The Guild, some aspects of its national Camp Bread events, bringing development were experiencing relatively While I haven’t been on the Board as baking traditions from around the world dark days. The National Baking Center long as Craig, I was there at the critical to our members. We created a more was struggling to survive management juncture when he became Board Chair public and educational model out of the transitions, and it was just after the back in 2002. Bread Bakers Guild Team USA selection terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001. and training process and sponsored a Tom McMahon, with the help of some The Guild’s three-year fundraising succession of winning and placing teams. other American baking luminaries, began campaign to fund general operations We set ambitious fundraising efforts, The Guild back in 1993. The early years was hopelessly stalled as many of our putting The Guild on track financially. focused on the conception and creation potential donors were plunged into a We expanded relationships between The of the National Baking Center, a venture holding pattern of economic uncertainty. Guild and partner educational institutions and grew our partnerships with other There were serious baking organizations, participating in discussions on The Guild’s large industry events such as our recent Board that perhaps the co-hosting of the Louis Lesaffre Cup in fiscally responsible thing Las Vegas. to do to insure the survival of The Guild would be Over the years, Craig’s greatest love to take it into a period of among all the of The Guild’s activities “hibernation,” providing only has been Bread Bakers Guild Team USA. the most basic of services He himself was a competitor in 1996, and eliminating costly winning first place for bread, back when hands-on education and they awarded individual honors, and he training until some future has been either a coach or coordinator of time when the economy every Team USA since. He has also been improved. honored multiple times by being asked to serve as the American judge at two Craig Ponsford challenged Coupe du Mondes as well as other baking us with an immensely competitions. different idea; he was of the “Damn the torpedoes, In this latest team cycle, Craig again displayed his trademark unflagging optimism for inventing the future when Craig Ponsford with his breads and first place trophy from the Coupe The Guild increased the educational du Monde de la Boulangerie, 1996. power of the team process by expanding Photo: Bread Bakers Guild of America { 4 } the bread bakers guild of america GUILD news o e Former Board Chairman, Craig Ponsford, with new Board Chair, Solveig Tofte.

high benchmark in place for future Guild move on when he sensed that the next

: ph yllis enl P hoto leaders to aspire to. generation of leadership was powered up and ready to make their mark and deploy There is so much work (and not all their own ideas about what this wonderful of it glamorous) that goes on behind organization can continue to grow into. the scenes just to make our powerful He feels sure this is the right time. yet tiny organization chug along each year: Raising the funds. Building the I was reminded of a Board joke from capacity of our small staff and large years ago. We had decided The Guild army of volunteer Board members and should have a “tag line” on stationery general members who make possible all and marketing materials, and the Board the classes, Guildhall Gatherings, tours, chose to write the words “14 years slowly Team USA activities, and national events rising” after “The Bread Bakers Guild of at trade shows and Camp Bread. The America” on our letterhead. We thought Team USA to nine members. It was endless creation and fine-tooth-combing it was a fun bakers’ pun showing that we financially and structurally difficult to of budgets to squeeze every drop of were up and coming and always on the take nine people from around the country educational programming out of every move, but slowly and steadily, like a well- and involve them in a process that had dollar we have. Craig had a willingness tended preferment building its complex previously included only three members. to stick stubbornly to the task of making flavor profile. The Guild’s marketing firm Yet in the end it worked, and on January sure all of this foundation-building at the time was horrified; they thought it 25 we received news that Team USA had occurred. Because I know that Craig is a was terrible to make a point out of being prevailed as the overall winner at the guy who derives much more enjoyment slow and suggested saying only “14 years Sigep Bread Cup in Italy, just months from hands-on things like baking bread, rising.” That, of course, just made Craig after our win at the Louis Lesaffre Cup teaching classes, setting up bakeries on more stubborn about authorizing the tag in Las Vegas that garnered the team a convention show floors under impossible line. He didn’t care about what made the spot at the 2012 Coupe du Monde de la deadlines, or cranking out food for best marketing. He was more interested Boulangerie in Paris. Participation in two 200 people in a tiny temporary event in projecting an honest image of what events so close together would not have kitchen, I feel all the more gratitude we thought we were: slow and steady, but been possible with only a three-member to him for hanging in there as a leader always rising. team. The new relationships we have for so many years, doing the kinds of When we saw him in January at his begun to build through the participation things that didn’t come as naturally to brand new Ponsford’s Place Bakery and in the Sigep Cup will undoubtedly him: meetings, budgets, wrangling of Innovation Center, Craig’s attention “trickle down” to enrich our membership Board members and volunteers, and was focused on his new venture, and his just as much as the many international defense of standards even in the face enthusiasm for this new chapter in his relationships Craig and many others in of budget woes and volunteer fatigue. I professional career was evident. Standing the team project have formed over the know he kept doing it because he wanted in front of ingredient bins of such years through our participation with the to leave the organization on a much interesting possibilities as lupine flour Coupe de Monde. higher functioning plane and a stronger and a host of locally whole milled flours infrastructure than when he came in The educational teaching corps of The such as rye, wheat, sorghum and wild as Chair. He wanted to leave the next Guild is largely formed of Team USA rice, he became animated, talking about generation of Board membership the members who have benefited from the the recent flavor and texture strides he ability to focus on more of the “fun” and time and knowledge and skills of the has been making in his experiments with the purely educational stuff. mentors and masters of our extended whole milled products. We were lucky baking community. Tripling the ranks of Recently, the “old guard” – Craig and enough to sample some excellent pretzels, this and future teams means triple the I – shared some memories and thoughts apple turnovers and pizzarollios fresh opportunities for demos, classes, events, for the future with the new Chair, Solveig from the oven. and informal exchanges of knowledge for Tofte, and the new Vice Chair, Jeff It felt great for me to see our past Chair, all of our members. Yankellow, at Craig’s new bakery in San and my good friend, still taking it to Rafael, California when we were all in When it comes to baking education the max in whatever he put his mind town for a Guild Board meeting. and sharing an absolute love for both to. Thank you, Craig, for your years of respecting the traditions as well as We asked Craig if the transition felt steadfast stewardship of our Guild! ✹ inventing the modern future of our bittersweet, and he replied that it felt baking craft, Craig Ponsford leaves a only sweet; he always felt he wanted to

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Team USA Wins at Sigep Bread Cup Continued from cover

After our conversation with Brett, the Arrival in Rimini equipment concerns, which they were team decided that: After a huge mix up of flights in London, prepared to compensate for, everything : The presentation to the jury would be which ended with Harry having to spend seemed on track for a productive day. on 15 custom platters, with one shape the night in Bologna, the team members The presentation of products by teams cut into cross-section, with slices of the were finally all together in Rimini on experienced with the Sigep competition public serving bread, e.g. baguette slice Friday, January 21. was to be the main focus the next day, and condiments on the side. which would enable Team USA to make While shopping for ingredients the next : The team would develop smaller, bite- any changes, based on what they learned. day, we had to omit the smoked fish size dessert pieces and canapés for the for the Loli bread as we could not find The Plan public tasting, pairing the Walnut Levain one that suited the bread, and elected During the three 4.5 hour work sessions, with Robiola cheese and mustards, and instead to serve a fresh carrot salad each baker would produce a bread. the Loli bread with smoked fish and and juice for the plating. My favorite pickled carrot salad. Day 1 Michael Rhoads to mix and bake part of shopping, besides which wine to : They would treat the Cake category as the Traditional Bread, Walnut Levain. choose, was a selection of no less than a baked dessert to be plated for the six types of delicatessen-style ricottas. Day 2 JT to mix and bake the Healthy judges. Plating components would Communicating without Italian language Bread, Loli Bread, a high-fiber, whole include cranberry compote, cornmeal skills was always interesting and often wheat bread. tuille, a quenelle of ricotta cheese amusing, especially when trying to (or any fresh cheese available in the Day 3 David DeCesare to do final express which ricotta we wanted and the supermarket near the convention hall in assembly of the Dry or Leavened Cake, quantity we needed. Italy), and a sliver of honeycomb. Pilgrim Bread (pannetone with cranberries With ingredients in hand, we and corn), the components having been arrived at the fairgrounds to made on previous days. “The camaraderie and bread bakers spirit amongst find a team of electricians Day 4 Harry Peemoeller to assemble all the participants was fantastic. It was a great installing the equipment. the Artistic Piece by 10 am, component event that brought together 40 very diverse but Michael mixed his 55% construction having been done on all high-caliber artisan bread bakers from all over the hydration biga and other previous days. world to share ideas and the passion for our craft.” preferments by hand, JT did his best to explain to the oven One baker would assist the lead baker – Harry Peemoeller technician that the controls for each day with pre-shaping, shaping did not match the actual oven and loading, as the bread had to be out temperature (about 100 degrees Celsius of the oven in 3.5 hours in order to be We received a warm welcome from the cooler than stated), and David helped organized for presenting. The third baker Founder and President of NECI. The Harry to organize his preparations for the would prepare either cake components school has been very accommodating and artistic piece. – laminated dough, fillings – or tasting generous both with Michael’s time and the components. school’s resources. Michael, as Chair of the A random drawing determined each Baking and Pastry Department at NECI, team’s schedule in the competition. The The artistic members would have a hopes that the school will be a future site draw had the United States baking the separate lab to construct, bake and for Guild practices and classes. morning shift on Saturday, January assemble the showpieces. Team members 22, and the afternoon shift on Sunday, would assist Harry or take over as needed. I toured the Vermont Cheese and Butter January 23, and so on, to the end of the Harry built time into his routine for Creamery and met the founder, Allison show. The artistic design specialist Hooper. She was very interested in worked opposite the team; that is, learning about the Sigep competition Harry worked in the artistic lab on “The Sigep Bread Cup was an amazing and agreed to help pair and provide the Saturday afternoon, Sunday morning, experience. The Guild helped me cheese for the team to take to Italy. Al- etc., as well as working with his team to pursue my dream of competing lison has been to the Slow Food events in in the morning. internationally, and I was able to foster Italy, where her cheese Coupole – similar to Robiola that Michael hoped to use with Team USA was assigned to share a relationships with fellow bakers in the Walnut Levain – was well received. As kitchen with Portugal – their baking Australia, Germany, and Italy. I hope I can it turned out, the Coupole was not ready schedule alternated with ours. The help future generations of bakers have for shipping, so the Bonne Bouche was day before the competition, everyone this same rewarding experience.” substituted and arrived in Michael’s lug- was in good spirits, well-prepared and – Michael Rhoads gage without incident and perfectly ripe. professional, and aside from some

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Harry Peemoeller with the Sigep Bread Cup trophy.

“It was amazing to be around so many people France’s levain was a favorite of who were excited about great bread. Such a Team USA. My personal favorite : dara R eimers : dara P hoto wide variety of backgrounds and traditions – it was the plating of the Israeli was pure joy to experience and share this time team, who had a sequence with my fellow bakers from around the globe.” to approaching the tasting – – John Tredgold untoasted bread with arugula and goat cheese, then their bread, toasted, with balsamic interruptions and developed an assembly vinegar and honey. Some of the plating strategy to simplify his piece if called seemed too elaborate, as many of the away at critical moments. One team judges simply judged the bread – touch, member would be available to fill in at smell, taste and texture. Many plates crucial times. were returned with the food and wine plating components untouched. Examples The competition of the various plating concepts can be Day One of the competition was seen in the photo section of my business Traditional Bread, and every team was Facebook page, thebreadshack. prepared and focused. As always, it was interesting to watch other bakers work Day Two was Healthy Bread, which and see how they organized their kitchens. Australia won. The notable point here was Team USA worked efficiently and cleanly. that many breads were low- or no-salt. During the last hour of the baking There was less emphasis on fiber, which sessions, we watched the Australian and may have hurt JT’s overall score. The Israeli teams bring out huge white ceramic plan created in Vermont was still holding David presented a lovely plating of the plates and knew at that moment that and appeared to be a good plan for the Pilgrim Bread with a slice of honeycomb, the thin, large custom platters produced competition. We were very grateful for our cranberry compote with ricotta, topped in Maine by Stan Hollenbeck would be conversation with Brett Noy and were well with tuille butterfly wings: simple, rustic, perfect: unusual and rustic. prepared as a result of his insights. and a bread product. Australia created an all-out entremet with tempered chocolate Team USA worked according to plan – JT JT’s Loli Bread was named after his wife, for an elaborate plating. It was beautiful baking bread, Michael preparing cheese and Loli (Laura) was on hand to watch and delicious but did not include any and mustard for the plating, and Harry him compete, as was The Guild’s former baked dough. Italy’s baked pastry was top and David working on a side table - and Director of Operations, Natalie Gould, notch and set the standard. this added to the overall appearance of who now lives in Italy. JT’s utter focus on efficiency and intention. and love for bread came through, and his There was some confusion about what bread was spot on. All went well, with was allowed on the artistic piece. Our Judging began late on the first day. the team functioning very well - good understanding was that all supports were The public vote was a surprisingly communication, working clean, and to be edible but the piece could incor- controlled affair, with 32 participants organized. porate engines and lights and such. The seated in a cordoned-off area in front of discussion was definitely lively. Although the professional judging area. We had Day Three, Cake or Baked Dessert, less intense than the Louis Lesaffre Cup, imagined a mob scene, with participants was highly anticipated because the the Sigep Bread Cup is a great venue for all reaching for slices of bread at the same definition of the category was so vague. bakers to get some international exposure time, but as it turned out, the organizers In addition to the smooth, clean flow and learn team dynamics. provided 32 small plates to give to that of the U.S. kitchen, the highlight of the day’s public jury. As a result, we were day was watching the Italian in charge Harry, as team captain and artistic baker, able to plate a smaller version of the of the baked dessert category finish the faced the biggest challenge. He worked presentation for the jury. Due to the sfogliatelle that he painstakingly created both shifts, in the team kitchen and the weight of the public vote, we assumed over three days. Some of us had never had artistic lab, as well as being team captain that Italy would win and the remaining the opportunity to see the process from and serving on the jury. If we compete at teams would be vying for second and beginning to end, so it was interesting to the Sigep Bread Cup again, it is imperative third places. watch. The sfogliatelle had exceptional that the Captain and the Artistic flavor, no doubt from the pork lard. When responsibilities be separated. in Rome... Continued on next page bread lines – march 2011 { 7 } GUILD news

Team USA Wins at Sigep Bread Cup Loli – Healthy Bread Continued from previous page By John Tredgold

Day Four, January 25, involved the final United States!” before we understood that This bread is a balanced blend of three assembly of the showpiece, and the Team USA had won. The guys were elated, flours: bread flour, whole wheat and Type awards ceremony. The showpieces were and for good reason. Great work, David, 85, which add substantial health benefits as diverse as the countries involved. The Michael, JT and Harry! You made The such as fiber, protein and minerals. The masterpiece created by the German Guild proud and represented the United team, highly controlled dead dough with States with distinction. dough has a high hydration that gives the a live dough base, prevailed. Harry was final loaf a moist, open crumb. At the closing ceremony, the sponsors just a few hundredths of a point behind, gave speeches that were not translated followed by Russia. Preferments into English. However, I remember one : Levain: Mix by hand just until well The final results gentleman speaking, and the emotion of incorporated. Desired temperature 75°F. These were the final results of the 2011 his statement did not need interpreting: Ferment 12 hours at 72 - 73°F. Sigep Bread Cup: he was happy and proud to have such : Poolish: Mix by hand just until well well-organized and serious competition. 1st Place United States incorporated. Desired temperature 75°F. It is no small task to assemble 10 teams Ferment 12 hours at 72 - 73°F. 2nd Place Italy each year and host an international : Soaker: Use hot water. Mix by hand, let sit competition, which we learned first hand 3rd Place Australia at room temperature overnight, covered. at the recent Louis Lasaffre Cup in Las Best Baked Dessert Italy Vegas. So, well done, Club Arti E Mestieri! final dough We are looking forward to returning next : Adjust the water temperature to achieve a Best Healthy Bread Australia year to highlight artisan products from final dough temperature of 78°F. Best Showpiece Germany across the United States and to establish : Place all the ingredients in the bowl of a a deeper relationship with our Italian spiral mixer except for the yeast, salt, and Best Traditional Bread United States counterparts. soaker. For the Walnut Levain, : Mix in 1st speed for 3 - 4 minutes until the Bread Bakers Guild Team USA would like which Michael developed flour is well hydrated. Allow the dough to to thank Club Arti E Mestieri and Laura Production Award England rest for 10 minutes for an autolyse. Sillato for inviting us to participate in the : After the autolyse add the salt and yeast For producing the most product to benefit the Sigep Bread Cup and for coordinating to the bowl and mix in 1st speed for 1 Club Arti E Mestieri’s charity project in Kenya all the details. Thanks also to the New minute and 2nd speed for 3 minutes. Our poor understanding of the Italian England Culinary Institute for hosting the team practice, negotiating space with language became apparent when the Photo: dara reimers overall team award was announced. No the other chef/instructors, and being one reacted. All the teams looked at so generous with Michael’s time, not to each other blankly because many of us mention all the fabulous espresso. We did not understand the words “United are grateful to Allison Hooper and Allison States” in Italian. Laura Sillato, our liaison/ Woolf at the Vermont Cheese and Butter interpreter, had to jump up and say, “The Creamery for providing us with cheese and butter. Our deepest thanks go out to our mate in Australia, “The 5th Annual Sigep Bread Cup was a fantastic Brett Noy, who is preparing for event; the camaraderie among the teams was the Pacific-Asia Louis Lesaffre the essence of a true artisan community. I am Cup, to be held in China. Without his information about proud that Team USA will have the opportunity the competition, we would to represent The Guild and the American baking have not been as well. Good community next year by showcasing our national luck in China, Brett, and we products during the Sigep Bread Cup 2012.” hope to see you at the Coupe – David DeCesare du Monde! ✹

Left to right: Michael Rhoads, David DeCesare, and John Tredgold pose behind Loli Bread presentations.

{ 8 } the bread bakers guild of america GUILD news

The dough will be developed to an improved mixed stage at this Process Loli – Healthy Bread point. Continue to mix in 2nd Preferments Levain Poolish Soaker Notes: speed slowly adding the water Mixing Type of mixer Hand Hand Hand until the dough comes together. First fermentation Length of time 12 - 18 hrs 12 - 18 hrs 12 - 18 hrs Lightly toast the sesame seeds Return the mixer to 1st speed. Temperature 72°F 72°F Hot water Lightly toast the wheat germ Add the soaker and mix until Pinch of salt incorporated. Final dough Place the dough in a covered : Mixing Type of mixer Spiral container and ferment for 90 Mix style Improved minutes, completing one fold at 1st speed 3 mins 30 minutes. Autolyse 10 mins shape & bake 2nd speed 3 mins 2nd water addition : Divide the dough into 400g 1st speed 1 min Add soaker pieces and preshape as a Dough temp 75 - 77°F cylinder. First fermentation Length of time 90 mins : After a 30 minute rest, shape Number of folds 1 into a baguette with pointed Timing of folds 30 mins ends. Proof on couche, seam up, Divide # Shape Weight # Units Div. weight # On a board Preshape TDW that has been dusted with type 30 Baguette 400g 30 400 10 batard 12000 85 flour. : Allow to proof for 45 - 60 Shape # Shape # on Couche # Couch Dusting minutes at room temperature. 30 Baguette 6 5 Type 85 : Bake seam down in a deck oven Proof & Bake # Shape Proof time Scoring Baking time at 440°F. Score before baking 30 Baguette 45 mins 5 22 with 3 traditional baguettte cuts. : The total bake time should be about 22 minutes. ✹

LOLI BREAD – SIGEP 2011 Total Prefermented Total Prefermented Total Each Flour 48.00% Healthy Bread in Levain 12.00% in Poolish 36.00% Prefermented Total White Flour 36.00% 36.00% Flour Pre- Total Dough Weight (TDW) 10.000 kg Type 85 40.00% Type 85 60.00% 100.00% fermented Total Formula soaker levain poolish final dough Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms Total Flour 100.00% 5.537 kg 100.00% 0.664 kg 100.00% 1.993 kg Total Flour 2.879 kg Bread Flour* 50.00% 2.769 kg 50.00% 0.997 kg White Flour – Bread 1.772 kg Whole Wheat – Fine 20.00% 1.107 kg Whole Wheat – Fine 1.107 kg Type 85 30.00% 1.661 kg 100.00% 0.664 kg 50.00% 0.997 kg Water 70.00% 3.876 kg 100.00% 0.664 kg 100.00% 1.993 kg Water 1.218 kg Salt 2.30% 0.127 kg 0.20% 0.004 kg Salt 0.123 kg Yeast 0.20% 0.011 kg 0.10% 0.002 kg Yeast 0.009 kg Sesame Seeds 3.00% 0.166 kg 100.00% 0.166 kg Soaker Water 2.40% 0.133 kg 80.00% 0.133 kg Sour Seed 2.40% 0.133 kg 20.00% 0.133 kg Wheat Germ 0.20% 0.011 kg Wheat Germ 0.011 kg Malted Barley Flour 0.10% 0.006 kg Malted Barley Flour 0.006 kg Levain 1.462 kg Poolish 3.993 kg Soaker 0.299 kg Totals 180.60% 10.000 kg 180.00% 0.299 kg 220.00% 1.462 kg 200.30% 3.993 kg 10.000 kg *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein)

bread lines – march 2011 { 9 } GUILD news

Walnut Wheat Levain By MICHAEL RHOADS ara R eimers Walnut Wheat Levain uses fermented cracked wheat and a large percentage of fermented flours in naturally leavened preferments to create a complex flavor : D P hoto profile in a shortened production time of 4½ hours.

preferments SHAPING AND PROOFING : 12 hours before the final mix, prepare the : To make the crowns, divide and white levain and whole wheat levain, mix preshape 450 gram rounds and let rest all ingredients until smooth. seam side down on proofing boards. : Cover and let rest 12 hours at 72-76°F. : For the batards, divide and preshape 300 gram cylinders and let rest seam fermented soaker side up on proofing boards. : 12 hours before the final mix, dissolve the : For the tricoms, divide and preshape wheat starter in 90 degree water before 350 gram rounds and let rest seam side blending with the cracked wheat. up on proofing boards. : Cover and let rest 12 hours at 72-76°F. : Let pre-shaped doughs rest 20 minutes final dough before final shaping. : Proof the tricom seam side down. Proof In a spiral mixer add all the ingredients For the crowns, use your thumb to : : at 74 - 76°F for 45 minutes to 1 hour. for the final mix, except the fermented create a hole in the center of the rested soaker and the toasted walnut pieces. round, gently expand the opening and let baking (Hold back 10-15% of the water to adjust the crown proof on a well-floured linen, : Bake in a steam injected oven at 460°F. for flour absorption rates.) seam side up. The batards and crowns are baked seam : Mix on speed one for 4 minutes, : Final shape the batard with a blunt end down on the hearth, scored in your own incorporating the reserved water as and let proof on well-floured linen with fashion or style. The tricoms are baked needed in the final minute. the seam side up. seam side up with a stencil to highlight : Mix on speed two for 3 minutes to : For the tricoms, use a rolling pin to the top edge of the tricom, which will develop the dough. flatten three edges of the rested round pop, creating a crisp edge. : Mix in the fermented soaker, and the to create an equilateral triangle. Fold the : Baking time for the batards and tricoms walnuts on speed two for 2 minutes. first two edges into the center. Brush is 20 - 25 minutes, with the vent open for : Let the dough bulk ferment for 1 hour 10 the outline of the third edge with oil the last 5 minutes. Baking time for the minutes with two folds every 25 minutes. before folding over the top of the first crowns is 25 - 30 minutes, with the vent two edges. open for the last 5 minutes. ✹

walnut levain – SIGEP 2011

Total Flour Fermented Total Flour Fermented Total Flour Total Dough Weight (TDW) 26.866 kg in White Levain 39.56% in Whole Wheat Levain 17.96% Prefermented 57.52% Total Formula fermented soaker white levain whole wheat levain final dough Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms Total Flour 100.00% 13.194 kg 100.00% 5.219 kg 100.00% 2.370 kg Total Flour 5.605 kg Bread Flour* 82.04% 10.824 kg 100.00% 5.219 kg Bread Flour 5.605 kg Whole Wheat Flour 17.96% 2.370 kg 100.00% 2.370 kg Water 67.58% 8.916 kg 55.00% 2.871 kg 85.00% 2.014 kg Water 4.032 kg Cracked Wheat 4.57% 0.603 kg 100.00% 0.603 kg Soaker Water 3.43% 0.452 kg 75.00% 0.452 kg Salt 2.03% 0.268 kg Salt 0.268 kg Instant Yeast 0.04% 0.005 kg Instant Yeast 0.005 kg Walnuts 16.90% 2.230 kg Walnuts 2.230 kg Wheat Sour Seed 9.08% 1.198 kg 10.00% 0.060 kg 15.00% 0.783 kg 15.00% 0.355 kg Fermented Soaker 1.115 kg White Levain 8.873 kg Whole Wheat Levain 4.739 kg Totals 203.63% 26.866 kg 185.00% 1.115 kg 170.00% 8.873 kg 200.00% 4.739 kg 26.867 kg *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein)

{ 10 } the bread bakers guild of america GUILD news

Cranberry Torta By david decesare A shawl of honey croissant provides a delicate crispy crunch as an SOAKER introduction to the light spongy texture of an enriched sweet tart Total Formula panettone within. It is studded with cranberries and has a hint of Ingredients % kilograms corn, traditional flavors of the early American settlers. Zest of lemon Corn Meal 100.00% 1.020 kg and orange lends a bright citrus flare. Corn, pureed 100.00% 1.020 kg Milk 49.00% 0.500 kg dough mixing Cranberries, dried 174.02% 1.775 kg : In the bowl of a spiral mixer, combine begins to develop. The gluten should be Lemon Juice 4.90% 0.050 kg all of the final ingredients except for at a medium stage of development. Orange Juice 4.90% 0.050 kg the sugar, butter, and the soaker. All : The desired final dough temperature is Lemon Zest 1.00% 0.010 kg ingredients should be cold. 78° - 80°F. Orange Zest 1.00% 0.010 kg : Begin mixing on low speed for : Refrigerate the dough overnight. Totals 434.82% 4.435 kg 3-5 minutes until ingredients are : At the end of the fermentation cycle, incorporated. laminate the dough using two double CRANBERRY TORTA DOUGH : Add the sugar. Once incorporated, folds. Allow the dough to rest in the continue to mix on high speed until there freezer for approximately 20 minutes Total Formula is significant gluten development. The between the folds and after the final fold. Ingredients % kilograms dough will pull away from the sides of Bread Flour* 100.00% 4.430 kg assembly the bowl. Milk 18.06% 0.800 kg : Sheet the dough to approximately 2mm : Add the butter and mix until fully thick. Cut 2.5 cm x 25 cm (1”x10”) strips Salt 2.14% 0.095 kg incorporated. of dough to line the 5 cm x 7 cm (2”x3”) Instant Yeast 2.48% 0.110 kg : Finally, on low speed, incorporate the rectangular molds. Sugar 22.00% 0.975 kg soaker until well distributed. : Place a 40g oblong loaf of cranberry Eggs 29.00% 1.285 kg : The desired final dough temperature is torta in the center of each mold. Butter 40.10% 1.776 kg 78° - 80°F. (This technique works well as circular Soaker 100.11% 4.435 kg : Refrigerate the dough overnight. forms also.) Totals 313.89% 13.905 kg honey lamination *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat proofing and baking : In the bowl of a spiral mixer combine all (11.7%-11.9% protein) Place the pastry in a proof box with of the final ingredients. : humidity at approximately 80°F for : Begin mixing on low speed for HONEY LAMINATION 1 hour. 3-5 minutes until ingredients are Bake with steam at 380°F for Total Formula incorporated. Turn the mixer to high : approximately 15 minutes. Ingredients % kilograms speed for 5 minutes until the dough : When cool, dust the Bread Flour 100.00% 6.092 kg lamination with Milk 52.00% 3.168 kg powdered sugar. ✹ Salt 2.13% 0.130 kg Instant Yeast 1.50% 0.091 kg Honey 20.00% 1.218 kg Butter 11.18% 0.725 kg Totals 186.81% 11.380 kg : dara reimers : dara P hoto Butter for Roll In 21.00% 2.390 kg

bread lines – march 2011 { 11 } regional events

May 13-14 Breads from the Details Woodburning Oven ...... King Arthur Flour Baking Education Check the Guild website, Center – Norwich, VT www.bbga.org, for This class taught by Jeffrey Hamelman of registration details. King Arthur Flour and Team USA 1996 will compare different types of wood-burning ovens and demonstrate how breads baked in a wood-burning oven differ from those baked in conventional ovens. February 4-5 The Wonders of Brioche June 18-19 Macrina Bakery – Seattle, WA Introduction to Artisan Bread In this sold-out class taught by Macrina San Francisco Baking Institute merica is still a young country. Bakery owner Leslie Mackie, versatile bri- South San Francisco, CA AThroughout its history, Americans oche doughs were used to create savory This workshop will teach the basics of have taken the best of what has and sweet items such as breakfast egg shaping, scoring, and baking artisan come before and attempted, often bialy sandwiches, fresh fruit pull-aparts, bread and will focus on classic baguettes, with great success, to make it Nutella-filled pastries, cocoa puff mini- ciabatta, and naturally leavened breads better. America, as a nation of loaf, kugelhopf, raisin brioche twist, and such as multigrain and semolina. immigrants, has benefited greatly roasted vegetable savory bread pudding. from a steady flow of ideas and H June 25 experiences from abroad washing March 19 guild-wide Bakery Open House up upon its shores. As with Artisan Breads: Multiple locations other industries, one can look at Flavors of the Southwest So far, 47 member bakeries from 25 baking and see the direct result The Culinary Institute of America states and 2 Canadian provinces have of someone bringing with them San Antonio, TX signed up to participate in this one-day either the seed of an idea or a skill Jeff Yankellow from Bread Bakers Guild event. Each bakery will determine the with many generations of practice Team USA 2005 will teach you how to scope and hours of its own open house. behind it. Baking in America truly take traditional artisan bread formulas To add your bakery to the list, contact reflects the “melting pot” effect of and transform them into something Laverne Dicker – [email protected] or our immigrant culture. unique, using Southwestern ingredients 707-935-1468. like chipotle peppers, jalapeños, corn and But what makes baking in America mesquite meal. July 16 truly special is the culture of Lesaffre Yeast Factory tour innovation. When you mix tradition March 26-27 Cedar Rapids, Iowa and practice with innovation, American Baking in the Heartland Join a Guild tour group for a rare glimpse you have the opportunity to Kendall College – Chicago, IL into the workings of a yeast extract factory. truly advance a craft. Much Jory Downer, a second-generation The factory in Iowa, built in 2006, is one of tradition exists today in baking in Midwestern baker and a member of two plants in the US operated by Red Star America. But it is the refinement of Team USA 2005, will teach the class to Yeast Company, a joint venture of Lesaffre that tradition, along with the hard make typical regional ethnic baked foods, Yeast Corporation and Archer Daniels work and innovation of today’s including paczki, brown bag apple pie, Midland Company. bakers, that has brought baking in kolachky, Bavarian pretzels, bienenstich, America to its current level. and apple strudel. July 21 From the Pillsbury Dough Boy It is the celebration of baking April 9-10 to Artisan Bread in America, brought to us by Blue Ribbon Baking: The International Culinary Center – NYC immigrant bakers and coupled with A Decade of State Fair Baking Amy Scherber has a unique perspective ingenuity and dedication of today’s General Mills Bakeries and Foodservice on baking: her father worked for Pillsbury, generation of bakers, that The Guild Culinary Center – Minneapolis, MN and she now owns Amy’s Bread, a thriving hopes to honor and explore this Dan “Klecko” McGleno of the St. Agnes artisan bakery in New York City. In this year with Breadville, USA: Exploring Baking Company will share unusual and two-hour lecture, she will share her Local Baking in America. popular recipes from the Minnesota State reminiscences about growing up in a Fair, e.g. hand-dipped pretzel bread, South Pillsbury family and will trace the baking – Tod Bramble, Guild Board Member African sourdough, Old World potato journey that led to her becoming an and King Arthur Flour Company bricks, Polish mother doughs, and red artisan bread baker. wine/black pepper biscotti.

{ 12 } the bread bakers guild of america GUILD news http://www.bbga.org/website.update By Solveig Tofte Board Chair and Owner, Sun Street Breads, Minneapolis, MN August 12-13 fter years of big dreams and dashed hopes, I’m pleased to report that the Baguettes Six Ways Johnson & Wales – Denver, CO Guild website is going to be greatly improved. The Website Committee worked This intensive class, taught by Jeffrey Athroughout 2010 to figure out a plan, find a developer and make this thing Hamelman, will give students the happen, once and for all. We are taking the approach that this is a living site and opportunity to compare a variety of that we will be making ongoing changes and keeping content up-to-date as much baguette formulas and techniques and will as humanly possible. // Our goals are two-fold: to show the world that The Guild is include extensive hands-on shaping and the one-stop-shop for everything anyone could want to know about artisan baking, scoring practice. and to provide better services and content for our members. // The first phase September 17-18 is to launch the public side of the website, with more comprehensive information Introduction to and easier navigation. We want every member to be able to direct customers and Laminated Viennoiserie interested parties to the website to get an idea of what we do as artisan bakers, and San Francisco Baking Institute will be introducing a new section which talks a bit about how great bread is made South San Francisco, CA and includes some technical articles and a formula. // The second phase is to work Students in this class, which will be taught on the Guild Member Area, and this is where we could definitely use some help. I’ve by an SFBI faculty member, will explore talked to some members who have great ideas for content, and we’ll be building a various lamination techniques and learn st the basics of baking yeasted breakfast dynamic infrastructure that will allow us to move into the 21 century. In support of pastries such as croissants and Danish. this forward progress, a few Board members are working on videos, trying to get our Facebook page going, and generally thinking about ways to be more available September 23-24 to our membership and the public. // One major change we’re working on is moving baking with Whole Grains the Yahoo! eGroup to the website, and to use forum software to communicate easily Le Cordon Bleu – Miami, FL by topic thread, upload pictures directly to posts, and involve moderators to help Ponsford’s Place in San Rafael, California, keep things organized. We think it’s going to be incredibly useful to everyone and will makes baked goods using only whole- hopefully increase participation. As in the present eGroup, there will be threads about grain flour, primarily fruit for sweetening, and ingredients from the local farmer’s wood-fired ovens, generating steam in home ovens, technical threads about processes, market. Bakery owner Craig Ponsford, a plus reports from classes and Guildhall Gatherings… and threads about shoes or member of Team USA 1996, will teach you barbecue or ways to cope with the crazy hours we work. Really, anything goes, just about the challenges and advantages of like the eGroup, but in a more organized fashion so everyone can find what they’re baking with whole-milled flour. looking for. // The biggest goal is to get all of our content posted in a more accessible manner. We’re going to post class materials so everyone can access the information, October 28-29 regardless of location or ability to travel. And the big plan is to get all of the issues of Baking with Locally Grown Grains King Arthur Flour Baking Education Bread Lines into some kind of usable format, with an index. The hope is that you’ll be Center – Norwich, VT able to search the archives and find the information you want. I anticipate this won’t Jeffrey Hamelman will cover a variety be finished until 2012 or so, because there’s quite a lot of work to do in this area.// of breads, all using locally grown and Generally, we’re doing our best to make the website reflect who we are and to serve milled grains. In addition to the bread our membership better. We have a ton of knowledge in this group, and we dearly baking, there will be discussions about need one place to corral it all. And finally, I ask for your patience – this is a big project, flour testing, assessment for baking and everything applications, and grain research, local grain initiatives and their effects on bakers. takes longer than we’d like. And I November 5-6 know there will Teaching Artisan Baking be some screwy Johnson & Wales – Providence, RI things and broken Knowing how to bake is one thing, but things, and we’ll fix teaching others how to do it is another. them as they come Richard Miscovich, Associate Professor to our attention, at Johnson & Wales University, will focus on effective approaches and hands-on so please keep us activities that demystify the process of posted on anything teaching artisan bread production to strange you stumble home or professional bakers. across. ✹

bread lines – march 2011 { 13 } world’s fair of bread german baking

1 2

3

4 t ner

5

1 The breads. 2 Yvan Chartrand of Tree Stone Bakery. 3 Sunflower t in B arne tt and E ric aumgar Walnut Rye Bread 4 Martin Barnett dips pretzels. 5 Volker explains the art and science of baking with 100% rye. An example of the braiding

s: M ar 6 techniques learned in the class. 6 P hoto

{ 14 } the bread bakers guild of america world’s fair of bread

Sunflower Walnut Rye Bread german baking Contributed by VOLKER BAUMANN August 16– 17

Hosted by MIXING METHOD levain SAIT Polytechnic Process – Sunflower Walnut Rye : Mix together rye flour, Calgary, AB Preferments Rye Levain Soaker starter, and water to a Mixing Type of mixer Hand or mixer Hand sourdough temperature of Instructor First fermentation Length of time 15 - 24 hours 6 hours minimum 82°F (28°C). Volker Baumann Temperature 82°F 75°F : Fermentation time: 15-24 Assisted by Leopold Newsimal hours at 82°F (24°C) Final Dough Soak sunflower seeds and Guildhall Gathering Mixing Type of mixer Spiral : walnuts for at least 6 hours. Hosted by Horizon Milling, Mix style Improved Temperature: 75°F (24°C) a Cargill Foods Affiliate at 1st speed 2 mins SAIT Polytechnic, Calgary, AB Autolyse – MIXING METHOD 1st speed – final dough 2nd speed 4 mins : Add all ingredients to bowl Dough temp 79°F except for the walnuts and  First fermentation Length of time 20 mins soaker and mix on low. speed for 2 minutes, high speed for 4 minutes in spiral mixer. Shaping Divide 1.070 kg : Add walnut and sunflower soaker and mix on low speed for 1 Preshape – minute until they are incorporated. Resting time – Dough temperature: 79°F (26°C). Shape Round : Proofing device Banneton seam down fermentation Wet surface, sprinkle w/ sunflower seeds : First Fermentation: 20 minutes.

Proof & Bake Final proof time 35 - 40 mins shaping and proofing Oven type Deck : Scale dough into 1070g units and round. Steam Yes : Place with seam down into round proofing baskets and moisten 60 mins Total bake the surface and sprinkle with sunflower seeds. Temperature 500°F for 10 mins : Proof for 35-40 minutes (¾ proof) and place into the oven with a 400°F for 50 mins peel or oven loading device, seeded side up.

baking : Bake at 500°F (260°C) for 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 400°F (204°C) for and additional 50 minutes. ✹

SUNFLOWER WALNUT RYE BREAD

Total Flour Total Dough Weight (TDW) 20.000 kg Prefermented 24.00% Total Formula SOAKER RYE LEVAIN final dough Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms Total Flour 100.00% 10.370 kg 100.00% 2.461 kg Total Flour 10.000 kg Bread Flour* 40.00% 4.148 kg Bread Flour 4.418 kg Rye Flour Medium 60.00% 6.222 kg 100.00% 2.461 kg Rye Flour 3.761 kg Water 74.00% 7.674 kg 80.00% 1.969 kg Water 5.705 kg Salt 1.80% 0.187 kg Salt 0.187 kg Yeast (fresh) 1.60% 0.166 kg Yeast 0.166 kg Walnuts 5.00% 0.518 kg 100.00% 0.518 kg Sunflower Seeds (roasted) 5.00% 0.518 kg 100.00% 0.518 kg Soaker Water 5.00% 0.518 kg 50.00% 0.518 kg Soaker 1.555 kg Rye Sourdough Starter 0.47% 0.049 kg 2.00% 0.049 kg Rye Levain 4.479 kg Totals 192.87% 20.000 kg 250.00% 1.555 kg 180.00% 4.479 kg 20.000 kg *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein) bread lines – march 2011 { 15 } breadville usa

all Photos: Michael Eggebrecht creative brioche ...... By Michael Eggebrecht Guild Member and Bakery Consultant

was fortunate to be able to attend brioche differed from the Ithe recent Guild class, “The Wonders of other types I have made Brioche,” taught by Leslie Mackie at her in the past. I have always well-established Macrina Bakery in the So made brioche with a higher Do District of Seattle, Washington. The percentage of butter and class spanned two days: three hours on in more traditional shapes. Friday and six hours on Saturday, and Leslie’s creative mind saw many more there were 12 students, some of whom uses for this tasty dough, and better profit strength is achieved. Leslie’s formula calls had traveled from as far away as North margins because of the lower food cost. for a reduced amount of butter (22%, as Carolina. The required skill level was compared to 40% and more in traditional An important step in the brioche process described as “Beginning to advanced. formulas). As a result, she is able to add it is developing adequate dough strength Enthusiasm is the only requirement.” I to the dough at the beginning of the mix in order to uphold the other ingredients, have to admit, that was spot on, because without much negative effect on gluten while insuring a light and airy loaf. Many I have been baking for many years, development. She does hold back the brioche formulas have a high percentage and I certainly walked away with new sugar until the end of the mix to minimize of butter, 40% or more, which yields a knowledge and a renewed appreciation its impact on dough strength. cake-like loaf. Ingredients such as fat, for our craft. water, or sugar act as softening agents, The reduced butter amount is an This was my first opportunity to get to and the baker must find a way to balance important element of Leslie’s method. She know Leslie; I had met her once before the need for strength in doughs that call targets a 78 degree dough temperature but never had a chance to bake with her for a high percentage of these ingredients. at the end of mixing and even warms the and see her in action. The one thing that A traditional approach to achieving this milk to room temperature before adding became apparent right from the start balance would be to hold the cool butter the yeast. Most bakers using a traditional was that she is an extremely talented out of the mix and add it only after the approach would target the coolest dough baker, and even more than that, a fabulous gluten structure has been developed. temperature possible, even chilling product developer. Her approach to ingredients prior to mixing and then Leslie’s approach to this versatile brioche, and I assume baking in general, refrigerating the dough after the mix. dough, while founded on established seemed to be that you don’t have to baking principles, differs from traditional Leslie’s dough is then bulk fermented follow strict parameters on all products, methods. During the mixing stage she for two hours and noticeably develops just use sound baking practices and your withholds the sugar, not the butter, from strength that would not have been imagination. I say this because Leslie’s the dough, until the desired dough possible if the dough had come off the mixer cool, as many other methods suggest. Again, this is made possible because of the reduced butter content.

Additional strength was also achieved in the dough through the use of ascorbic acid, which was already present in the

Leslie and the students shaping Bialys the Macrina way.

{ 16 } the bread bakers guild of america breadville usa

February 4-5 The Wonders of Brioche

Hosted by Macrina Bakery Seattle, WA

Left: Kugelhopf Instructor made with the sweet Leslie Mackie brioche dough. Right: Leslie Mackie explains Guildhall Gathering the technique for Macrina Bakery folding the brioche dough around the Leslie Mackie Nutella filling.

flour. I didn’t talk with the miller, but a and Raisin Brioche Twist. I thought the typical amount added in the flour at the biggest surprise of the course was the use Editor’s note: A thorough review of mill would be around 25 parts per million. of the savory brioche in the Onion Bialys. brioche has just been written by James This would assist in preventing the shaped This was a pleasant surprise, as the Bialy MacGuire, a baker from Montreal, Quebec products from spreading during their long was just right when used for a breakfast and will appear in The Art of Eating, overnight stay in the cooler. sandwich with egg and bacon. number 87, March 2011.

We made two types of brioche, a sweet After spending a couple of days with James has written previous articles for and a savory: the main difference between Leslie, I walked away thinking about the Art of Eating (AOE) on pain au levain the two was the percentage of sugar and how I sometimes go about product (AOE, 2009 number 83), and the baguette the amount of vanilla, with the sweet development and wondered if I allow (AOE, 2006, numbers 73+74). version having 3.75% more sugar and deep-rooted tradition to inhibit my 1.82% more vanilla, and the butter being creative mind. I now think around 22.5% in both formulas. The differently about brioche, and versatility of this dough goes beyond my the lessons learned in those 10 past experiences. All in all, we made eight hours at Macrina Bakery will significantly different products during the impact my craft positively in course. With the sweet brioche we made other areas as well. ✹ Kugelhopf, Cinnamon Apple Pull-Apart, Formula on next page Brioche Nutella, Cocoa Puff Mini Loaf,

Clockwise from left: Leslie Mackie shows off the finished Brioche Nutella rolls. Marie- Claude Duytschaever, Tom Flint, and John Licata shaping the Raisin Brioche Twist. Cocoa Puff Mini Loaf made with sweet brioche dough, filled with a semi-sweet chocolate ganache, and topped with a chocolate glaze.

bread lines – march 2011 { 17 } breadville usa cinnamon apple pull-apart Contributed by Leslie Mackie ......

Sweet Brioche dough : Dough is mixed with the finished temperature of 78 - 79°F. : Scale into lightly oiled buckets, 15lbs per bucket. : Let proof in bucket (80°F Room temperature) for approximately 2 hours. : Retard in walk in for 6 - 12 hours. : Pull dough out and allow to come to room temperature, approximately 2 hours.

baked apples Process – Sweet Brioche, Croissant Dough : Peel and seed apples, cut into wedges. Final Dough : Toss in sugar, cinnamon and flour. Mixing Type of mixer Spiral : Bake on parchment for 15 minutes at 325°F. Mix style Intensive : Drain off extra liquid, coarsely chop. 1st speed 4 mins 2nd speed 12 - 15 mins cinnamon sugar mixture Dough temp 78°F : Mix all ingredients together. First fermentation Length of time 2 hours buttermilk glaze : Sift powdered sugar into bowl. Shaping Shape As desired : Slowly pour buttermilk in to make glaze. Proof & Bake Final proof time Varies, some retarded Oven type Rack shaping and assembly Steam Yes : Flatten dough to 21” x 6”. Dimple to make even thickness. Total bake Varies : Divide into desired shape, 1lb 10 ounce pieces. Temperature Varies : Spread chopped baked apples over dough, sprinkle with cinnamon sugar mixture. : Roll up like a cinnamon roll, with seam down on the table. SWEET BRIOCHE DOUGH CINNAMON SUGAR MIXTURE : Cut in 2” pieces. Place 4 per paper mold Total Formula Total Formula (13-14 oz total). Ingredients % kilograms Ingredients kilograms : This piece of brioche should make 3 mini Total Flour 100.00% 6.122 kg Granulated Sugar 0.480 kg loaves. Bread Flour* 100.00% 6.122 kg Brown Sugar 0.480 kg Milk 51.85% 3.174 kg Cinnamon 0.030 kg proofing : Place in paper baking mold and proof Eggs 22.22% 1.360 kg Nutmeg 0.020 kg at room temperature for 1-2 hours. The Sugar 13.85% 0.848 kg Totals 1.010 kg brioche will rise just taller than the edge Butter 22.22% 1.360 kg Salt 1.41% 0.086 kg of the baking mold. BUTTERMILK GLAZE Instant Yeast 0.67% 0.041 kg baking Vanilla Extract 2.59% 0.159 kg Total Formula Eggwash, sprinkle with a little more Ingredients kilograms : Totals 214.81% 13.150 kg cinnamon sugar mixture and bake at Powdered Sugar 0.240 kg 335°F for 35 minutes with a quick shot of *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein) Buttermilk 0.050 kg steam. Totals 0.290 kg : Let cool for 1 hour and drizzle with buttermilk glaze. ✹ BAKED APPLES CINNAMON APPLE PULL-A-PART Total Formula Ingredients kilograms Total Formula Apple Wedges 2.620 kg Ingredients kilograms Sugar 0.140 kg Sweet Brioche Dough 0.740 kg Cinnamon 0.007 kg Baked Apple, chopped 0.390 kg All Purpose Flour 0.020 kg Cinnamon Sugar Mixture 0.030 kg Totals 2.787 kg Totals 1.160 kg

{ 18 } the bread bakers guild of america regional events

San Rafael Guildhall Gathering ......

January 15, 2011 Hosted by Ponsford’s Place San Rafael, CA

On January 15, Guild members gathered Craig Ponsford, Facility Liaison

at Craig Ponsford’s new bakery, Ponsford’s Place, in San

Rafael, California, for an evening of conversation, laughter,

and camaraderie. Some of them had known each other

previously only through the Guild’s Yahoo eGroup and

were meeting in person for the first time.

The crowd of over 40 people also included Craig’s family,

neighborhood fans of the bakery, and The Guild’s Board of

Directors, who were in Sonoma for a Board meeting. The

refreshments provided by Ponsford’s Place included fresh-

baked pretzels and pizzarollios, which disappeared quickly.

By laverne dicker Guild Staff, Sonoma, CA

TOP: Robert Jörin and Evelyne Suas talk outside Ponsford’s Place. Bread Man (right) is usually the signal to the bakery’s customers that fresh bread is available, but his presence at the Guildhall Gathering was purely decorative. ABOVE: Guild members at the San Rafael Guildhall Gathering: (clockwise from bottom right) Andy Clark, Board member; Laverne Dicker; Guild staff; Solveig Tofte, Board Chair; Robin O’Donnell, Ode E O’Dough; Michel Suas, San Francisco Baking Institute; Evelyne Suas. LEFT: Craig Ponsford shares a laugh with Team USA member Mike Zakowski (right) and a bakery customer. photos: abram faber

bread lines – march 2011 { 19 } baking 101

{ Editor’s note } With 2013 being the 20th Anniversary of the founding of The Bread Bakers Guild of America, we wanted to begin this year to take a look back at some of The Guild’s many accomplishments. Throughout this year we will be running a series called “Baking 101,” in which we will be reprinting excerpts from articles previously published in Bread Lines. While much has changed in baking over the last 20 years, many of the subjects we plan to cover are so fundamental that we could all use a refresher course in them.

a k i n g • b • • • • 101 • Technology of Ingredients

By Philippe Le Corre

excerpted from breadlines · 1999 · volume 7 · issue 3

Salt down yeast activity. This will produce 3.6 % fat content, 87% water, 5% lactose, more consistent flavor and texture in 3.5% protein and approximately .7% The salt we use in baking has the the product. vitamins and minerals. Since milk chemical formulation NaCl (sodium spoils quickly, it receives a number of chloride). Salt is very hygroscopic, meaning it treatments (pasteurization, sterilization, attracts moisture. It will increase the shelf The first main natural source, sea salt, or dehydration) to increase its shelf life. life of products by delaying the staling extracted at a rate of 1 oz per liter of water, Different conservation processes are, process in dry climates. However, in wet is obtained by evaporation, either by the Heat, which includes pasteurization at and humid climates it will decrease shelf action of the sun or by decanting in tank 185°F for several seconds, and sterilization life and promote a soggy crust. storage. The other natural source, rock at 24O°F for 15 to 20 minutes. salt, is at least 90% pure as it is extracted Its hygroscopic qualities will also Concentration, which includes the meth- from the ancient underground seas. contribute to the coloration of the crust ods for making condensed milk, in which (by retaining moisture) and, depending Characteristics and roles of salt in baking 41% of the water is removed, sweetened on when it is added during the mixing condensed milk, where the 41% removed The presence of salt will potentiate the process, the salt will definitively affect water is replaced with sugar, as well as flavor of other ingredients (like butter or the crumb coloration by slowing down evaporated milk. In this process, 45% of flour), and of course bring to the product oxidation. If the salt is added at the end the water is removed and the product is a very characteristic taste of its own. of the mixing time, this extensive sterilized at 240°F for 20 minutes. oxidation of the dough will provide a Salt will change the plasticity of the whiter crumb and a greater loss of aroma Dehydration, which produces powdered dough by reinforcing the gluten structure than if the salt is added at the beginning milk by removing the water, and in most, and increasing elasticity. The strength of of the mixing time. cases the fat, to increase the shelf life of the dough will improve. Adding salt to the the product. dough makes stronger doughs because it affects the interactions between Characteristics and roles of milk Milk proteins but also it decreases the amount Because of its high water content (around of “free water.” When we talk about milk, we are 87%), milk will contribute to the hydration referring to cow’s milk, and in baking, Salt also contributes to good control of of the dough and start the gluten we usually use whole milk with around the fermentation process by slowing

{ 20 } the bread bakers guild of america baking 101 structure formation as soon as it is in The fat’s plasticity (especially for butter) Main roles played by the egg white and contact with the flour. should be reworked to favor a smooth and the egg yolk quick incorporation into the dough, and The aqueous phase of milk includes While the egg white contains only traces the dough temperature must be closely lactose (sugar) and some minerals of fat, the yolk contains much more (32%). monitored to prevent any melting of the (potassium, sodium chloride). Thus, it definitely affects the structure fat by too much mixing friction. and texture of yeast-raised, resulting in Milk increases the final coloration and Fat functionality depends on the fraction a tighter crumb structure and a softer affects the texture of the product due of liquid vs. solid fat at any temperature, texture. to the presence of lactose and fat in an and on the size, shape, and the degree emulsified state. The egg yolk contains lecithin, an of interconnection of the fat crystals emulsifier that helps in stabilizing liquid/ The lactose of the milk will also enhance that make up the solid phase. Because fat emulsions: this emulsifying property flavor and bring sweetness to the dough. the chemical composition of natural fats is extensively used in cake mixing and in is very complex, the size and shape of Nutritional value is also one of the the homogenization of creams. the fat crystals is incredibly sensitive to important roles of milk in baking. Casein temperature, temperature history, time, The composition of the egg white is protein (the main protein of the milk) is and how much the fat has been worked mostly water (around 86%) and albumin very important for human growth, and (working can break the connections protein (around 13%), while the egg yolk milk also contains various vitamins (A, between crystals or break the crystals contains approximately 49% water, 32% fat, B2, C, D, E) and minerals. themselves). A very small change in the and a higher percentage of proteins (17%). degree of interconnection can have a Egg yolk and egg white proteins help Fats major effect on texture. bind liquids together under the action The types of fats that we use in the bakery Butter obtained from carefully selected of heat, and they also help color the and in the food industry are of animal or high butterfat creams and milks will dough masses and creams into which vegetable origin, or both. Whatever their enhance the flavor and color of the they are mixed. origin might be, fats are generally high in product. Proper maturation of milk or Meanwhile, the egg white protein has a calories. The fats of animal origin include cream prior to churning is crucial to very important technological faculty: its all types of butter, lard and certain types developing the principal flavor agent of foaming power, which is very often used of margarine. The fats of vegetable origin the butter, diacetyl. as a developing agent. During mixing, include margarine, shortening and most Maturation lasts approximately 6 millions of air bubbles are trapped and types of liquid oils. to 8 hours in a carefully controlled form foam that will expand under the Characteristics of fats environment at 55°F. This enhances the influence of heat in the oven, causing the flavor development (acidity) and texture product to rise. By coating some of the gluten forming of the butter. proteins (glutenin and gliadin) and Lecithin and egg white proteins both delaying gluten structure development Of course, if margarine or shortening contribute to the emulsification of fats during mixing time fats will affect the is selected, those flavor effects will be and to the formation of foams. Under structure of products. Therefore, it virtually eliminated. any particular set of circumstances, an is extremely important to delay the emulsifier or water-soluble protein might incorporation of a high percentage of fats be more effective stabilizing a foam or an Eggs in dough until the proper gluten structure emulsion, but essentially all emulsifiers is achieved. The egg is made of three parts: also stabilize foams. In laminated doughs, fat presents a The calcareous shell that is porous allows All emulsifiers and nearly all water- barrier that is not penetrated to any exchanges between the outside and the soluble proteins have portions of their significant degree by proteins. In this inside of the egg. molecules that like to be in water, and case, the fat layer produces a structural other parts that want nothing more than The egg yolk (30% of the egg weight) discontinuity or weakness in the dough to get away from water. These molecules is kept in suspension in the egg white that is easily separated by steam of CO2 tend to concentrate at the boundaries by two elastic ligaments called chalaza during proofing and baking of the pastry. between water and air (foam) or between and is surrounded by a membrane called water and oil (emulsion). At that bound- Due to a lack of plasticity and a low vitellin. ary, the water-loving part of the molecule melting point (especially with butter), The egg white is comprised of water faces toward (or penetrates into) water special care must be taken regarding soluble proteins with a coagulation and the water-hating part of the molecule the timing of incorporating fats, as well temperature of 150°F, compared to 160°F points toward (or penetrates into) the as the dough temperature during this for the egg yolk. incorporation. Continued on next page bread lines – march 2011 { 21 } baking 101

Technology of Ingredients conditions, the microbial growth rate is very small or zero. Continued from previous page Sugars reinforce water retention and air or oil. Since the most important thing enhance the softness of the crumb by is getting the water-hating part of the assisting in the incorporation of liquids molecule away from water, it doesn’t mat- into the dough. They act as texturizing rre o f P h ili pp e L Co t esy ter whether the non-water substance is agents, contributing to the hardness or air or oil. So, nearly any molecule that can softness of certain finished products. stabilize an emulsion will also stabilize They will enhance and reinforce flavors ur Co photo foam, and vice versa. and of course sweeten the products that they are associated with. Sugars Sugars will give yeasted doughs a different level of mechanical and physical resis- Most plants on the planet produce a wide Philippe Le Corre, CMB, is Senior tance and change their rheological (elas- variety of sugars, primarily in the form of Corporate Chef at HJ Heinz, where ticity and extensibility) characteristics, glucose, fructose, and to a lesser degree, he designs and develops desserts depending on the ratio of sugar to flour. and represents the company with sucrose. With the exception of lactose major customers in the United (extracted from milk), the other sugars A percentage of sugar under 6% will States and Canada. He is a member are all of plant origin. The main sucrose increase the strength of the dough, while of the advisory board of Le Cordon producing plants are the sugar beet and a percentage over 12% will decrease the Bleu College of Culinary Arts in the sugar cane. strength of the dough. Minneapolis, Minnesota, and was selected in 2010 by the American Sugar cane extraction is the oldest Sugars have a direct effect on color Culinary Federation certification method known. It was developed around and flavor of products due to the board to help redesign the curricu- 500 B.C. in India and was for a long time caramelization reaction (The heat of the lum and exam for executive pastry the only method of sugar production until oven causes some of the sugar contained chef certification. the 19th century, when a French scientist in bread and cakes to caramelize on by the name of Delessert discovered and the product surface), as well as the and glutenin). This explains why a high developed the cane sugar extraction Maillard reaction (a reaction that percentage of sugar must be incorporated process. occurs when a blend of proteins and in steps, to ensure proper gluten structure reducing sugars is heated) The Maillard Sucrose and other sweetening substances development. reaction occurs between reducing are classified as carbohydrates. We sugars (fructose and glucose in this It provides food for the yeast cells to usually refer to “sugar” as being case) and proteins. Sucrose and proteins increase fermentation activity (up saccharose and composed of small, hard by themselves would not be expected to 6% of sugar to flour) or decrease and pure crystals: this classification to give a strong browning reaction. So, fermentation activity (more than 13% of includes all types of granulated sugars sucrose is converted by yeast to fructose sugar to flour). (crystal to superfine and all forms of and glucose. The yeast preferentially powdered sugars). In chemical terms, The availability of water necessary consumes glucose. At any time during sucrose is made up of one molecule of for the yeast cells will decrease with fermentation and the early phases of glucose and one molecule of fructose. higher concentrations of sugar in the baking we have a mixture of sucrose, dough, and the osmotic pressure will Technological properties of sugars glucose, and fructose. increase, resulting in a slowdown of the In high concentration, they are good The amount and character of the fermentation activity. conservation agents. By preventing the browning and flavor development will Sugar promotes the incorporation of growth of microorganisms and by their depend on this sugar mixture, protein air and reinforces the stability of foams water retention (hygroscopic) abilities, concentration, water concentration, pH in cake mixing. The effect is probably sugars help stabilize the moisture level and temperature. due to the following: Sugar increases of the product and therefore increase the Sugars can be used to create a decorative the viscosity of the fluid phase between shelf life in the final product. effect on certain finished products, such bubbles. This means the liquid film Sugars (as well as salts) inhibit microbial as brioche and panettone. Several grades between two bubbles drains more slowly growth by an osmotic effect. When a of sugar, like coarse or pearl, are available and is possibly more stable against mild microbe lands in a concentrated sugar to enhance the products’ presentation. mechanical shock. ✹ solution (like honey) the microbe’s Sugar delays gluten structure Writer’s Note: My most sincere thanks to cellular water is sucked out into the development by absorbing the water Peter Pesheck and the Pillsbury group for surrounding sugar solution. Under these available to the flour proteins (gliadin their assistance with this article.

{ 22 } the bread bakers guild of america TEAM formulas

There was an error in the Pacific Breeze formula that was published in volume 18, issue 4. This is the corrected version.

PACIFIC BREEZE By jeremey gadouas Inspired by the State of Hawaii – contains pineapple and coconut.

CROISSANT dough mixing method shaping, proofing, baking : Place all ingredients in 20 qt mixer. Mix and final assembly on 1st speed for 3 minutes then switch : Sheet croissant down to 2.5 mm and cut to 2nd speed and mix an additional into desired shapes. Pipe on pastry cream 2 - 4 minutes to lightly develop the and place a few pineapple pieces on top. gluten. Place in plastic tub and ferment Place on another piece of dough to en- overnight. close filling. Egg wash and proof for about : The next day degas the dough and form one hour at 78°F. Brush with egg wash into a rectangle. Place dough in freezer again and place in 375 - 400°F oven until on a sheet pan for about 30 minutes. golden and brown on the bottom. Time CROISSANT DOUGH Then prepare the butter block. will vary according to size of the pieces. Total Dough Weight (TDW) 100.00% 2.600 kg Remove dough from the freezer and give Brush with simple syrup immediately out : : Total Formula it three single folds. Let rest for one hour of the oven and decorate with more fruit Ingredients % kilograms after last turn. or powdered sugar. Bread Flour* 100.00% 1.490 kg pastry cream and Tip: The pastry cream can be piped out Water 30.53% 0.455 kg caramelized pineapples into desired size and shape and topped Milk 24.47% 0.365 kg : To prepare the pastry cream, place milk, with pineapple pieces. These pieces can Sugar 12.00% 0.179 kg vanilla bean, salt, and half of the sugar in then be frozen for easier handling while Salt 2.00% 0.030 kg a pot and bring to a boil. Mix the yolks, filling each croissant.✹ Instant Yeast 1.00% 0.015 kg sugar and pastry cream powder Butter 4.00% 0.060 kg together until smooth and temper Malt 0.50% 0.007 kg in hot milk. Place back on burner Process – Pacific Breeze Total 174.50% 2.600 kg and cook until boiling. Whisk while Final Dough Roll-in Butter 25.00% 0.650 kg boiling for about 2 minutes. Pour Mixing Type of mixer Vertical planetary out onto a parchment-lined sheet Mix style Short to improved *Bread Flour is Winter Wheat (11.7-11.9% protein) pan and cover with plastic wrap. 1st speed 3 - 5 mins Place in freezer to cool quickly. Autolyse – PASTRY CREAM : For the caramelized pineapple, 1st speed – 2nd speed 2 - 4 mins Total Formula chop the fresh pineapple into Ingredients % kilograms Dough temp 80°F desired size and place in shallow Whole Milk 100.00% 0.372 kg cake pan or baking dish. Dry First fermentation Length of time 12 hours Egg Yolks 13.90% 0.052 kg caramelize the 200 grams of sugar. Notes Ferment at 38°F Sugar 22.70% 0.084 kg Slowly whisk in the butter until Lamination Folds 3 single Salt 0.50% 0.002 kg smooth. Immediately pour over the Pastry Cream Powder 6.70% 0.025 kg pineapple and place in 360°F oven Make up – Croissant Sheet 2.5 mm thick Vanilla Bean 0.50% 0.002 kg and cook for about 25 minutes. Divide As desired; cut tops Total 199.00% 0.537 kg Stir the pineapple about every and bottoms 10 minutes to coat evenly with Shape 2.5 mm thick caramel. Remove from the oven Proof & Bake Final proof time 1 hour @ 78°F CARAMELIZED PINEAPPLES and cool in the fridge. Oven type Convection Total Formula Steam Yes Ingredients % kilograms Total bake 12 - 14 mins Pineapples 100.00% 0.302 kg Temperature 375°F Sugar 66.00% 0.199 kg Finishing Brush with Butter 33.00% 0.099 kg simple syrup Total 199.00% 0.600 kg bread lines – march 2011 { 23 } technical article Local Grain, Whole Grain Milling And the Artisan Bakers to Make it Work Flour as milled by Certified Foods in Woodland, California By joe ortiz Guild Member and Co-Owner, Gayle’s Bakery, Capitola, CA

Regarding the health benefits of whole California’s fascination with whole “I never used to like whole wheat baking, grain breads, many bakers note that grain bread baking started with and flour never interested me very customers frequently ask for nutritious loaves, but often opt out for the more Tassajara, a Zen retreat deep in much,” said Craig Ponsford, former Guild Chairman of the Board and artisan baker enticing white loaves they offer. Suas the Ventana wilderness in Northern extraordinaire. says he is more concerned with pleasing California in the late 1960s. There customers: “I’m a baker, not a doctor.” Michel Suas of San Francisco Baking (and in a small bakery on Cole Street And Sullivan candidly admits, “I don’t Institute (SFBI) expressed what many in San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury), believe that every bite of food we eat has of us feel when we see a poorly made Ed Epse Brown started a movement to represent a full meal.” healthy loaf: “Whole grain bread doesn’t of whole grain baking, which have to be a brick. If the bread looks full While all of these viewpoints have merit, reflected the Zen Buddhist desire to of life, then the customer is already happy.” a new movement in California is slowly eat simple, nutritious foods. beginning to convince many bakers and Steve Sullivan of the Acme Bread food producers that so-called whole- Now, 50 years later, many bakers still Company in Berkeley said he believes wheat flour milled by commercial mills have heated opinions, strong beliefs in providing his customers with a wide might not be what we’ve always believed range of whole grain products and “letting and various concerns that fuel the it to be. fire about whole grain breads and people decide for themselves.” In fact, because of the work and passion about flour milling in general. Sullivan says, “It’s great to put together of Bob Klein, Joe Vanderliet and Craig the best things you can from 100% whole Ponsford, many of us may never feel, think wheat, but I don’t think you have to or talk about whole grain breads the same t iz assume that anything that isn’t all whole way again. grain has dubious moral qualities.”

Even Kathleen Webber, who offers many A Local Grain Economy Bob Klein, owner of Oliveto Restaurant in whole grain products at Della Fattoria in : J o e Or photoS Oakland, California, wasn’t aware of what Petaluma, California, admits: “There will he was looking for when he started the always be a place for white flour.” Oliveto Grain Project in 2007.

He began by having meetings with prime movers in the artisan-baking, crop-growing and grain-milling communities – the likes of Steve Sullivan and Rick Kirkby from the Acme Bread company, Al Giusto from Giusto’s Vita-Grains, “some farmers, and a few restaurateurs.”

LEFT: Bob Klein, owner of Oliveto. RIGHT: 100% whole wheat pizza from Oliveto Restaurant topped with pancetta, and black trumpet mushrooms.

{ 24 } the bread bakers guild of america technical article

Klein said, “If we got everybody in the purification process, vic h

room, we thought we could make stuff which removes the o happen.” Now, three years later (after the residual bran. Then it Oliveto Wheat Project has morphed into passes through a final a marketing and product development roller process. company called Community Grains), it Later some of the bran looks as if he has succeeded. is blended back in to : ric h ard misc photo Klein admits his first concept “was fairly the white milled flour. naïve.” He thought of bringing wheat (But even that process, grown for pasta from Italy. But an agrono- as Vanderliet points out mist from the University of California at and many observers Davis who attended the first meeting agree, is suspect.) said, “Why do that? It won’t be the same.” According to Vanderliet, After several tests and tastings, Klein and this is how industrial his group agreed. They found that – like a flour is made in its most Craig Ponsford holds a baked sign for Community Grains sourdough starter brought from another extreme process. at his bakery, Ponsford’s Place, in San Rafael, CA. area and like wine grapes dependent on Certified Foods employs their own soil and atmosphere – wheat a method that was used prior to the flour with the germ in it makes me realize adapts to where it’s grown. introduction of roller mills – grinding the why commercial milled whole-wheat flour In fact, says Klein, “Wheat is terroir plus,” entire grain between stones. tastes dead.” meaning that wheat is one of many plants The key advantage to a process wherein When Ponsford first tried whole-milled highly influenced by its growing region. all of the elements of the grains are milled flour, it gave him the ability to build a Suddenly, Klein knew what he wanted: “A into flour and nothing is re-constituted, high-hydration bread dough, providing local wheat. A wheat that grows well here. states Vanderliet, “is in its ability to him with the texture, volume, and flavor A wheat the farmers like, the bakers like, stabilize the fats and rancidity of the flour.” he’d never before imagined from whole- the millers like, and the people who eat it Furthermore, it eliminates the need to wheat baked goods. feel is truly delicious.” enrich the flour by adding back vitamins. A complete convert to whole-milled, The great plus for the baker is in offering Klein is so dedicated to what he calls “a whole-wheat flour, Ponsford uses no white flour that is more alive and brimming with local grain economy” that today he uses flour in his new micro-bakery in San Rafael, its natural nutrients and structure. whole-milled flour in many of his products California (set to open its doors in March). at Oliveto. Needless to say, the health benefits are Ponsford’s ciabatta integrale and challah greater with whole milled flour, according But he had to meet two other men in are testaments to his dedication to to Vanderliet, because more antioxidants order to help realize his dream: Joe making wheat breads with exciting, and nutritious elements are retained Vanderliet, the miller, and Craig Ponsford, open textures and depth of wheat in whole grain milling than traditional the baker. flavor. In Oliveto’s case, the nutty taste milling. Antioxidants, the micronutrients and toothsome quality of the finished that control disease in our bodies, are “Whole-Milled” Flour products are the reasons why Bob Klein contained in the outer, aleurone layer In his attempt to bring whole grain milling is willing to put his reputation on the line of the grain. In regard to re-constituted to California, former industrial miller Joe by offering whole grain pizza dough and wheat flour, Bob Klein says: “If you Vanderliet founded Certified Foods in whole grain durum pasta. Woodland, California, in 1992. process a wheat grain in a roller process, you kiss the aleurone layer goodbye.” But vibrant flavors aren’t the only benefits According to Vanderliet, “Modern milling And with it go the nutrients in the germ to whole milled flour. in America is driven by automation and and the bran. the corporate obsession of creating “Alan Scott used to tell me that the strong, predictable white flour, which Craig Ponsford as Consultant, greatest nutritional value of whole milled can be used in the mass production of flour is immediately after the flour is Recipe Tester, Advocate milled,” Ponsford said. “So I asked millers, baked foods.” Vanderliet refers to it as How can you change the mind of a baker ‘Why shouldn’t I mill my own flour?’ and “endosperm milling,” an industrial process who admits he never cared much for it all comes down to particulate size.” that “takes wheat, strips off the bran whole-wheat products in the first place? and germ (which represents up to 80% Most bakers wouldn’t be able to get the of the nutritional value of the finished “One of the main flavor ingredients for granulation out of whole-wheat milling flour), leaving the endosperm, mostly the chefs is fat,” says Ponsford. “So to have that Certified Foods can achieve. starch.” The flour is then subjected to a it removed is the reason I never enjoyed whole wheat. Now, being exposed to Continued on next page

bread lines – march 2011 { 25 } technical article

Local Grain, Whole Grain Milling Continued from previous page

Indeed, many bakers who have tried the Artisan bread bakers are important to Thanks to such groups as The Guild and flour agree that finer granulation can help the movement set in motion by Klein, SFBI, most artisan bakers have been them attain a higher hydration, a more Vanderliet and Ponsford. Because most steeped in the techniques that can help active fermentation, and thus a greater artisan bakers attempt to use a minimum them make a more flavorful and appealing volume in the finished loaf. of enriching ingredients, they tend to bread through delicate kneading, a use more whole wheat flour than the long, slow fermentation, some type of Artisan Movement Can traditional 30% whole wheat to 70% white preferment and a large percentage of Help Lead the Way flour ratio. water in the dough. When it comes to whole grain breads, Furthermore, because their baking is As Ponsford and others have shown us, all consumers truly want to eat nutritiously. based on small, handcrafted production, of these finessing techniques apply even Whether they eat artisan – or mass- and because artisan bakers (especially in more so to baking with whole milled flour. produced breads – most consumers California) are close to the fields and mills, are aware that bread made with whole If Bob Klein’s dream comes true, this new they create the connection to complete grain flour creates a more healthy loaf. collision of locally grown and milled grains, the locavore cycle. But many educated consumers also and the artisan bakers who know how to understand that factory-produced But there’s another key factor that use them, will bring us not only better breads often contain additional enriching makes artisan bakers a key to this new nutrition but also a rich and flavorful ingredients, like fructose, molasses or corn movement. batch of whole grain loaves. ✹ syrup. And these breads are often fortified with white flour.

the aleurone layer By James MacGuire Baker, Montreal, QC

As we open bag after bag of ready-to-use flour each day, we is skillfully done, the abrasion involved crushes the bran and seldom pause to remember that, just like an egg, the wheat the aleurone into finer particles. This leads to smoother dough berries ground to make it are self-contained units containing textures and, arguably, easier digestion. everything necessary for them to grow into plants, which in Many bakers in France, including Appolonia Poilâne and her turn produce many more berries. White flour, which consists uncle, Max Poilâne, use stone ground flours with the coarsest of the starchy endosperm at the center of the grain, is in fact bran sifted out (extraction rate 85% to 90%). This compromise, a reserve of food for the germ, whose other name, embryo, seldom seen in the United States, leads to an even finer texture makes its own crucial role clear. Growth could not take place, and less branny bitterness, yet retains most of the aleurone however, without the aleurone, which provides the nutrients layer and germ. It should be stressed that one cannot achieve necessary to the process. the same results by adding whole wheat flour or flakes of bran The aleurone layer is sandwiched between the endosperm to less extracted flours. and the bran. In it, enzymes are produced which transform Flours containing the germ should be used while their the endosperm’s starches into sugars to fuel growth (this is nutritional value is at its maximum and before the wheat germ what takes place when beer is brewed, and in bread doughs oil becomes rancid. Their use can conceivably involve two where these same enzymes transform starches damaged disadvantages. The aleurone layer contains phytic acid, which in the milling process into sugars to feed the yeast and aid can block the absorption of calcium in the body, leading to the in crust caramelization) and storage proteins provide other unlikely possibility of rickets, and the higher percentages of essential nutrients. The aleurone layer contains vitamins B6 damaged starches in stone ground flours can cause problems and E, potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron, and zinc as well in dough texture. Both are easily avoided through the use of as antioxidants, a powerhouse of nutrition housed in a tiny sourdough and other long-fermented formulas. portion of the grain. In recent times, Bühler, the Swiss milling equipment I didn’t understand many bakers’ interest in stone ground manufacturer, has developed a method of extracting the flours until I learned that in roller milling, it’s impossible to aleurone layer from the bran, thus permitting ingredients separate the aleurone layer from the bran, so that in most manufacturers to sell it separately for addition to a variety of flours, both are sifted out. They remain present in stone foods. But as artisan bakers know so well, there will always be ground flours, and so does the germ, and when stone grinding a place for intelligent use of traditional methods.

{ 26 } the bread bakers guild of america technical article

Integral Bread t iz By craig ponsford Guild Member and Owner, For More Information: Ponsford’s Place, San Rafael, CA : J o e Or photo Even though access to Certified Foods flour is limited at this time, there are ways to find it and find out Process – Integral Bread more about local grains and whole Final Dough milled flour. Mixing Type of mixer Spiral Short : Soon Certified Foods flour will be Mix style 1st speed 5 mins available in five-pound bags at the Autolyse 20 mins Community Grains Website: www. “Pane integrale” as baked at Della Fattoria 1st speed 1 min communitygrains.com bakery in Petaluma, using Certified Food’s For large bakeries or food producers whole wheat flour. : 2nd speed 3 mins who want to order a truckload, Dough temp 75°F contact Joe Vanderliet at www. levain certifiedfoods.com First fermentation Length of time 3 hours : Adjust the water temperature for a final : Ponsford’s Place, a new “pop up” Number of folds 5 dough temperature of 70°F. bakery (official opening sometime Timing for folds 30 min : Mix by hand or in a mixer until just in March, 2011) at 117 Shaver St. San intervals combined. Rafael, Ca. 94901 will notify those in Shaping Divide 2 kg : Store at 75°F for 12 hours or 4 hours at their neighborhood when they are Preshape Light round 75°F followed by 10-15 hours at 42°F. open when they see the “Breadman” Resting time 15 - 20 mins final dough standing outside the shop. Or Adjust the water temperature for a final you can find out about hours and Shape Round : dough temperature of 75°F. offerings at PONSFORD’S PLACE, on Proofing device Basket Place all of the ingredients except the line at www.ponsfordsplace.com : Proof & Bake Final proof time 3 - 4 hours salt and levain in the bowl and mix on : Oliveto Restaurant and Café, 5655 @ 75°F first speed for 5 minutes. College Avenue, Oakland, Ca, 94618: Oven type Deck Allow the mixture to sit for 20 minutes Offers whole-milled whole-wheat : Steam Yes for an autolyse. pizza from their wood burning oven Total bake 45 - 55 mins : Mix in first speed for 3 minutes. and whole wheat durum pasta daily. 400°F Temperature : Mix on second for 3 minutes. : Info about the Oliveto grain Note Vent when bread begins project: http://www.oliveto.com/ to take on color bulk fermentation ourcommunity/farmers/the-oliveto- : Bulk ferment for 3 hours. Fold the dough wheat-project. 5 times at 30 minute intervals. : The dough will be soft and integral bread wet and is best suited for Total Flour proofing in floured baskets. Total Dough Weight (TDW) 5.000 kg Prefermented 30.00% shaping Total Formula levain final dough : Scale the dough at 2 kgs. Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms Pre-shape in loose rounds. Total Flour 100.00% 2.584 kg 100.00% 0.775 kg Total Flour 1.809 kg After twenty minutes shape White Whole Wheat Flour, fine 44.40% 1.147 kg 100.00% 0.775 kg White Whole Wheat Flour, fine 0.372 kg in tight boules and place Whole Wheat Flour, fine 44.40% 1.147 kg Whole Wheat Flour, fine 1.147 kg seam up in the baskets. Whole Rye Flour, fine 6.70% 0.173 kg Whole Rye Flour, fine 0.173 kg : Proof for 3-4 hours at 75°F. Pumpernickel Flour 4.50% 0.116 kg 0.10% 0.001 kg Pumpernickel Flour 0.116 kg baking Water 80.00% 2.067 kg 65.00% 0.504 kg Water 1.563 kg : Bake at 400°F with steam for Salt 2.00% 0.052 kg Salt 0.052 kg 45-55 minutes. ✹ Milk 5.00% 0.129 kg Milk 0.129 kg

Olive Oil 5.00% 0.129 kg Olive Oil 0.129 kg Sour Seed 1.50% 0.039 kg 5.00% 0.039 kg Levain 1.318 kg Totals 193.50% 5.000 kg 170.00% 1.318 kg 5.000 kg bread lines – march 2011 { 27 } FIRST CLASS PRESORT US POSTAGE PAID

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The Bread Bakers Guild of America Newsletter Co-editors Tod Bramble from the archives Laverne Mau Dicker Newsletter Designer Kirsten Finstad The Guild Newsletter Contributors Martin Barnett Volker Baumann Eric Baumgartner Volume 5 – Issue 4 fall 1997 Tod Bramble David DeCesare Laverne Mau Dicker Michael Eggebrecht The struggle of the traditional baker does not have to be Phyllis Enloe Abram Faber a David vs. Goliath story. There’s room for everyone. The Jeremey Gadouas problem is: the baking industry needs to more clearly identify Melina Kelson-Podolsky Philippe Le Corre and discuss the real distinctions between all the players and Leslie Mackie James MacGuire their legitimate roles. Only then can there be mutual respect Richard Miscovich Joe Ortiz among the different segments of the business, and broad Harry Peemoeller Craig Ponsford support for the renaissance of true artisans. Dara Reimers Michael Rhoads – Tom McMahon Solveig Tofte John Tredgold Founder and Former Jeff Yankellow Chair of the Board Solveig Tofte Executive Director of The Guild Vice Chairman Jeff Yankellow Treasurer Neale Creamer Board of Directors Tod Bramble Andy Clark Phyllis Enloe Abram Faber The material printed in Bread Lines may not be reproduced or copied without Melina Kelson-Podolsky written permission from The Bread Bakers Guild of America. Richard Miscovich Tel 707.935.1468 • Fax 707.935.1672 • Email [email protected] • Web www.bbga.org Office Manager Cathy Wayne