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To win! a princess or a » kit ! and « palace

Present the booklet-game of the exhibition « Le xviiie au goût du jour - The 18th century back in Couturiers and fashion designers in the Grand Trianon » Until 9 October 2011 organized with the Museum

www.bubblemag.fr www.chateauversailles.fr Encore Eux – © Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 1996, Marcio MADEIRA - Zeppelin/J. M. Manaï/Ch. Milet/Thinkstock For Children 1 Welcome to the Grand Trianon! The 18th century back Estate. With its hamlet with its farm in fashion animals and its “mini-palace”, the Grand Petit Trianon, this is where the queen Trianon With this booklet-game, you can liked to stay with her children. discover all the secrets of the exhibition “The 18th century back To win in fashion” in the Grand Trianon palace in the Estate of Versailles. To end this journey to the land of princes and princesses, don’t forget During your visit, you will be able to draw the dress or the palace of Petit to discover sumptuous of your dreams, fill in the form and Trianon Queen’s great fashion designers such as send off the last page. Hamlet Vivienne Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld for , , You may win a genuine princess and Christian Lacroix, who have dress designed by Mademoiselle P, been inspired by the fashion of the a specialist in made-to-measure th 18th century. inspired by the 18 century, or a “palace” kit con- taining numerous games and toys The Marie- from SMALLable! Antoinette’s estate After you have visited the exhibi- Are you ready? tion, head off to Marie-Antoinette’s Your turn now! Practical advice • The exhibition is open every day from 12:00 noon to 6:30 pm (except Palace Monday). • Tickets: free for children; €10 for adults aged over 26 (exhibition + access to Marie-Antoinette’s Estate), • Included in the Passeport ticket to visit all the Estate of Versailles. © J-F. Péneau Péneau © J-F. 2 Fashion in the 18th century The 18th century, in the reign of king Louis XV, gave much importance to the enjoyment of pleasure and frivolity which was reflected in the way people dressed. Marie-Antoinette : a queen intensely interested in fashion Advised by Rose Bertin, one of the most famous fashion traders of the time, Marie-Antoinette, the wife of king Louis XVI, loved to wear finery, decorate her hair with © Bibliothèque municipale de Versailles Formal dress ball in Versailles, for the wedding of feathers and promote Monseigneur the Dauphin (the heir), on Wednesday new . 24 February 1745. © J.-M. Manaï/EPV Portrait of Rose Bertin, the supplier of all the decora- At Versailles, fashion was an tive details on dresses and essential part of life! , by G. Ripart. In the Palace of Versailles, the ladies and their huge court dresses impressed all the Game of 7 differences ambassadors of Europe. Their dresses were so Find the 7 differences between those pain- large that by bowing their heads they could hide tings. The original (at the ) is a portrait themselves completely behind them and say all of Marie-Antoinette, in 1775 wearing a kinds of silly things! grand habit (formal ), with her right In the palace of Trianon, the ladies wore simpler hand resting on a globe, painted by Jean- dresses. But, even though these dresses had no Baptiste André Gautier-Dagoty. , they were still covered with decorations. >>>> © J.M Manaï/EPV 3 Women’s dresses in the 18th century The à la française Fortunately, the ladies could choose less formal and lighter dresses for outings, candle-light dinners or for playing all kinds of board and card games in the evening in the small apartments of the Palace. They then wore this “sack-back gown”, a kind of gown with box in the back that fell to the ground and a shorter train, which was called a “robe à la française”.

Dressing in those days was not easy. The , , hoops, stay and dress all had to be put on in a certain order. To adjust the robe à la française, it was even necessary for a helper to get in under the dress to tie the small inner ribbons! Fortunately, the court ladies had well-trained maids for these tasks! © J.-M. Manaï/C. Milet Sack-back gown or robe à la The stay française, around 1750-1755. The stay was worn over a blouse. Laced in the front or the back, the purpose of the bone was to push the shoulders back and make the waist

© J.-M. Manaï/EPV more slender. Worn very tightly, they were a frequent cause of dizziness and Marie Antoinette, portrayed in 1778 by fainting among the women of the Court! Élisabeth Louise Vigée-Le Brun, in formal gown, “with a hoop”. The grand habit (formal Question: Will you be able to recognise the à la gown) française during your visit? At the Court of Versailles, the ladies ...... could not dress whatever way they ...... fancied! For the grand ceremonies they Question: Find the geometrical shape formed by the bust wore a full outfit: a rigid and very bulky of a woman wearing a stay (circle the right answer). , consisting of a stay, a held up by a large or hoop, and

a train 2 to 3 metres long! © J.-M. Manaï/C. Milet Stay, around 1750-1785 4 © J.-M. Manaï/C. Milet Stable © P. Rochas, par Olivier Theyskens, 2006. Thierry Mugler, 1992. © G. Blot/RMN

Duchess in formal gown occupying one of the highest places with the queen. By Nicolas Dupin le Jeune. The pannier The pannier is worn under the and consists of a stiffened regular-shaped frame of whalebones or hoops of basketwork. The shape of the pannier evolved during the 18th century. In the middle of the century, hinged panniers of a modest size became popular as they were much more convenient. © M. Madeira/Zeppelin © M. Madeira/Zeppelin The purpose here also was to emphasise women’s curves Maison , 2007. Christian Lacroix, 1995. by widening the hips to make the waist look narrower. The width of some dresses supported by panniers could reach 3 Question: Among these dresses with panniers by 20th century metres, forcing the women to go through doors sideways! designers, which one do you prefer (circle the photo)? 5 Men’s costume in the 18th century In the 18th century men, like women, paid great attention to their clothing.

The three pieces or habit à la française was made up of 3 garments: a , a , a and close-fitting – which let these gentlemen riders show off their solid calves…

The coat was long, reaching to the knees: the part between the waist and the knees, called the tails or basques, was divided to allow men to rise a horse and carry a sword. Don’t forget that all noble gentlemen in the 18th century were Yohji Yamamoto, 2011. Jean Paul Gaultier, 1998. riders, fencers and excellent dancers!

ç Game: Indicate the name of the 3 items forming three piece suit.

ç Question: You have pro- bably noted that some contemporary fashion designers have taken their inspiration from men’s costumes of the period for women’s outfits! Among these costumes, which one is really a man’s costume? Photos © M. Madeira/Zeppelin Balenciaga, by Nicolas Ghesquière, Vivienne Westwood, 1979. 2006. 6 Fashion accessories in the 18th century Accessories playing hide-and- seek… Fans of all kinds, large bonnets, hats sporting flowers 4 or feathers, embroidered clutch bags, beaded purses, Game: Arroword crossword high-heeled decorated with buckles, buttons, ç and , hidden pockets… the accessories 1 played hide-and-seek! 5 The shoes, covered with embroidered silk, were hidden under the petticoats. The pockets concealed under the held handkerchiefs, perfumed salts, precious scissors. The fan was used by ladies to hide their faces and their extravagant “beauty spots”. The buttons 3 would be opened to read romantic messages or look at amorous scenes.

ç Question: What was the fan used for? 2 To fan one’s face when it was too hot. To fan a slow fire to make it light. To chase birds away.

1 2 3 4 5 7 The care for details: fabrics and ornaments in the 18th century…

During theatre performances and balls, women competed with each other to display the beauty of their finery made from the finest silk ç Question : fabrics richly decorated with lace, Imagine a name for this hairstyle. flowers, feathers, beads, pearls and semi-precious stones. And, of course, they showed off their diamonds! Well of course, they were in the King’s court!

«Pagoda» shaped : Type of Flouncing: Long and narrow panels A learned sleeves that were narrow down to of fabric flounced in the middle glossary*… the crook of the arm and then en- and added to the edges of dresses ding in a wide flounce. and skirts. The vocabulary of the period used thousands of words and expressions to describe all the precious little details of clothing. The words used for the clothes and their ornaments are often mysterious and even the historians do not always know what they mean! Robe à la française, vers 1750-1755. * Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros, Glossary, in “Le xviiie au goût du jour. Couturiers et

Photos © J.-M. Manaï/C. Milet

créateurs de mode au Grand Trianon”. © J.-M. Manaï/C. Milet

” (Victory). ” Victoire La

Jacket (): A jacket with May-bug’s eyebrows (sourcil de “

Catalogue published by: Artlys, Château

ç , known as as known , Pouf : tails of variable length and long or hanneton): Silk braid trimming Answer de Versailles et de Trianon three-quarter sleeves. grouped by colour shades sown on to the robe».

8 …18th century know-how revived by contemporary fashion designers The English fashion designer Vivienne Westwood was one of the first to go back to the fashion codes of the 18t century. She was inspired by the dresses in the paintings of Boucher that she transformed into printed dresses over stretched with elastic fabric. She has brought dresses with panniers back into fashion, made from parachute fabric and adorned with little angels, and uses a mass of bows and ribbons all over her designs.

ç Game : Link the dresses to the details that belong to them. Photos © M. Madeira-Zeppelin Thierry Mugler, 1997. Maison Christian Dior, 2007. Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, 2005. Balenciaga, 1995-1996. printemps-été 2006. © J.-M. Manaï/C. Milet

9 Now let’s turn to the Trianon palaces and Marie-Antoinette’s Estate

The Grand Trianon Marie-Antoinette’s Estate The Petit Trianon © J.-M Manaï/EPV The exhibition that you have visited is in the Grand Trianon. Did you know that this palace, built in the reign of Louis XIV, is also called the “marble Trianon”? It was given this name because of the © C. Milet/EPV Built by Louis XV, it was given as a gift to Marie- pink marble covering it on the outside. As you Antoinette by Louis XVI in these words: “You like stroll around it you will discover the beauty of its flowers, Madame, so I have a bouquet for you. formal French gardens. At this time, over 96,000 It’s Trianon.” She found here in Versailles what plants were buried in pots so that they could be she had known in Vienna – a more relaxed life changed every day! with her family and friends.

ç Questions: © J.-M. Manaï/EPV Marie-Antoinette portrayed in 1778 by Elisabeth Louise Vigée-Le Brun wearing formal What do you think “Trianon” means? and holding a rose. ç Game: An animal with 3 horns. A pavilion annexed to a royal palace. Marie-Antoinette’s Estate has a number of Surrounded by gardens, the Petit Trianon A pointed . features including the Petit Trianon palace is visible from all sides. You who can walk and the famous Hamlet (small village) of the around it, can you tell us if the 4 sides are What is a “formal French garden”? Queen. The wife of Louis XVI liked to retire to identical? A garden left to go wild. this Hamlet to enjoy the simple pleasures of Yes A garden where French is spoken. country life and forget the Court of Versailles A garden laid out in a very ordered way with and its very strict etiquette. No geometric patterns. 10 kennel ç ç The Hamlet

Wishing to enjoy the charms of life in the country, Marie-Antoinette ordered her “Hamlet” to be built in 1783. Hive ç ç

Stable ç ç

Hutch ç ç

ç © Andy Julia Henhouse ç A kind of small Normandy village, it has a number of buildings that include the Queen’s © Andy Julia House, consisting of 2 distinct buildings linked The hamlet is also well-known for her genuine Sty ç ç by a wooden gallery; the Mill and its Water Farm, whose produce went to the kitchens Wheel, a decorative feature that, contrary to of the Palace of Versailles and where Marie- what is often claimed, was never used to grind Antoinette herself did not hesitate to play wheat; the Clean Dairy, where the queen came with cows and nanny-goats! Now transformed to enjoy creams and cheeses; the charming into an educational farm, the Hamlet houses a ç Game: Dovecote, located near the stone bridge over hundred animals: goats, sheep, geese, donkeys, Everything in its place! the river with its carps and the Marlborough hens and chickens, ponies, rabbits, pigs, ducks, Link by a line each animal to where it Tower used to store the material and the boats etc. lives. used for fishing for pike or carp.

11 Design the dress or the palace of your dreams… and you may win a real princess’s dress based on your drawing(!) made by Mademoiselle P, a specialist in dresses inspired by the 18th century, or a “palace” kit consisting of numerous games and toys offered by Smallable, a website for design, fashion and wonderful things for children! To take part in this competition, fill in the form below, and send it with your drawing by 14 October 2011 to: Château de Versailles - Pavillon Dufour - Direction de la communication - RP834 - 78008 Versailles Cedex.

“Marie-Antoinette” dress by Mademoiselle P. Kit « château », SMALLable. www.mademoisellep.fr www.smallable.com Form Us, the undersigned, Surname of the legal representative*: ...... E-mail address**: ...... Address*: ...... PC*: ...... City*: ...... Country: ...... Tel.: ...... Allow our child : Surname (of the child)*: ...... First name (of the child)*: ...... Date of birth (of the child)*: ...... Boy* Girl* To participate to the competition in the conditions stated in the rules of the competition E-mail** : ...... I wish to receive by e-mail the news about : Consult the complete rules of the competition and the details of the prizes on The Palace of Versailles The great ideas for the family from Bubblemag www.chateauversailles.fr/expositionmode SMALLable and Cyrillus Game co-organised by the Château de Versailles and Bubblemag, in partnership with Smallable and Cyrillus from 8 July to 14 October 2011 inclusive. Open to all participants (subject too parental * Mandatory fields ** To receive the answers of the booklet-game and the competition authorisation for minors) possessing the booklet-game. 2 winners decided by a jury. The rules of the game are accessible on www.chateauversailles.fr/expositionmode and/or are sent for free by post if a written request is sent to the following address: Etablissement Public de Versailles / Direction We wish to thank Cyrillus, the ready-to-wear and household goods brand, the partner of the booklet-game. You can obtain this de l’Information et de la Communication / Service Partenariats Médias / RP834 78008 Versailles. booklet-game for free from 8 August to 1 October 2011 in one of the 19 Cyrillus boutiques in the Paris region (list of boutiques Commercial value of each prize: €350. The data collected are processed only by EPV/Bubblemag/ Smallable/Cyrillus according to the boxes ticked by the participants. In accordance with the law on available on www.cyrillus.fr/page/magasins.htm data protection and freedom of information (Informatique et Libertés, 6 January 1978, revised), the participants have the right to access the data concerning them as well as additional information, and Credits: www.bubblemag.fr. Design: Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros, Chief Curator at the Musée Galliera to correct these data and, if necessary, oppose the recording of the data. They can at any time oppose and Anne-Laure Trouble. Graphic design: Marion Senlis. the communication of these data to third parties. Any request to access or correct personal data or to 12 oppose the recording of these data must be sent to the address given above.