KLWines.com September 1, 2012 800.247.5987 WINE News SEPTEMBER is harvest time here in Calfornia. While growers are picking the fruit for the new vintage, we’re getting an abundance of new wines from across the state, especially the Central Coast. Find some of our favorites inside... Melville Vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills. Rita Sta. the in Vineyards Melville A TRIP TO SANTA BARBARA COUNTY Our Los Angeles-based domestic wine team just got back from a preview two new releases, the 2011 Foxen “Ernesto Wickenden” Santa few long days of tasting all over Santa Barbara’s wine growing Maria Valley Chenin Blanc ($24.99) and the 2011 Foxen “Bien region. Considering I live about two hours from many of the places we Nacido Vineyard Block UU” Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay visited, it is a shame I don’t get up there more often. It seems less busy ($31.99). The Chenin Blanc is the perfect shellfish wine: crisp, bright and than Napa, and it is quite a bit cheaper. It’s also much more laid back and loaded with mineral flavors. The Chardonnay has a rich, lush texture that relaxed—no suit and tie required! (I would compare visiting Napa to is creamy and round on the palate. The finish is still bright and fresh. visiting Bordeaux and Santa Barbara to the Rhône Valley.) On day two of our trip we spent some time with Chad Melville, who calls As far as the wine goes, I was very impressed with the quality. We focused himself a winegrower, not a winemaker, first tasting his Samsara wines in mostly on the 2010s and 2011s, two growing seasons that were filled with the Lompoc “Wine Ghetto.” Our three highlights from this tasting challenges. Both were cool years, but we really enjoyed the acidity and included the 2011 Samsara Santa Ynez Grenache Rosé ($18.99), a freshness that came through many of the wines, especially the Santa Ynez juicy style rosé that has some color and depth. The wine is perfect for Sauvignon Blancs. I found the wines much easier to taste in this region those looking for a little more punch and fruit from their rosé. The 2010 than in Napa. Probably because the varietals that grow best in Santa Samsara Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($29.99) shows dark roasted coffee Barbara don’t have the power and tannin that Cabernet can have. And aromas, hints of mocha and bright strawberry fruit. This wine sees only even though this is Southern California, one of Santa Barbara’s AVAs, the neutral wood. The 2009 Samsara “Larner” Santa Ynez Grenache Sta. Rita Hills, is one of the coolest wine growing regions in the state. ($32.99) amazed us with its purity of fruit and “light on its feet,” fresh Driving west to Lompoc from Highway 101 the temperature drops about mouthfeel. This is a different take on Grenache in California and one we a degree a mile. The fog seems to sit there all day, and it rolls into the all appreciated. After our Samsara tasting we headed over to Melville entire region at night, not pulling back until late morning some days. with Chad to taste their current lineup. (See Adam’s article on page 11.) We had many appointments while we were in Santa Barbara, so I can A trip to this area would not be complete without a stop to Palmina. I am only mention a few in the space allotted here. One of our earliest stops always amazed at the passion that Crystal and Steve have for what they was at Tantara Winery, right next to the Bien Nacido Vineyard. My first do. All of their wines are un-manipulated, pure, balanced and true to highlight of the tasting was the 2010 Tantara “Cadence” Santa Maria their varietal. Currently we have the following wines from our tasting Chardonnay ($27.99). This Chardonnay sees no oak and shows great (they are all delicious): 2010 Palmina “Honea Vineyard” Santa Ynez freshness and balance, with all the richness coming from the fruit. Valley Arneis ($16.99), 2010 Palmina Santa Barbara County Barbera Delicious, food-friendly wine! My second highlight was the 2010 Tantara ($20.99), 2010 Palmina Santa Barbara Dolcetto ($16.99) and 2007 “Old Vine Bien Nacido” Santa Maria Pinot Noir ($51.99). This is an Palmina Santa Barbara County Nebbiolo ($27.99). intensely rich, deep and concentrated Pinot Noir that should develop Clyde “Trey” Beffa III nicely in a cellar. (Personally, I like the wine’s fresh, intense fruit, so I would just give it a few more years in bottle to round out the edges.) Another stop on our trip was Foxen Vineyards to meet with Dick Dore september 2012 features and Bill Cates, the winery’s owners and founders. We had a nice little tour of the rather new facility near their old tasting shed, and we tasted one of 6 California’s Wine Cowboy: James Ontiveros our favorite Foxen wines, the 2010 Foxen Santa Maria Pinot Noir ($34.99). It is a fruit-forward, balanced wine that is a blend of multiple 20 Get to Know Justin Willett of Tyler Winery clones from various vineyards within the Santa Maria appellation, 22 Gimblett Gravels Takes On Bordeaux primarily Bien Nacido, Julia’s and Riverbench. We also had a chance to How Good are They? Departments How good are they? teddy bear, but will cellar 20+ years easily. The Auctions ......................................................24 If you are talking very inexpensive La Garde ($29.99) and Austria & Germany ....................................23 about 2009 Gigault “Cuvée Viva” ($18.99) sold very well Beer ................................................................8 Bordeaux, I would after they were tasted. Bordeaux..................................4-5, 14-15, 32 say “as good as Burgundy ........................................19, 27-28 they get.” As these Two of the top 2009 values in my book are Commonwealth ..........................................22 gems keep arriving from the Right Bank—Merlot territory. Both Champagne ..................................................7 daily, my Bordeaux are lush and plummy, with toasty notes. You Direct Imports ............................................12 Clyde Beffa Jr staff and I are need some of the 2009 Cap de Faugeres Domestic ..................1, 3, 6, 9-11, 16-17, 20 Co-owner/Bordeaux Buyer amazed by how ($19.99) and the super-rich 2009 Pipeau Italy ..................................................18, 25-27 good they taste (Inquire) in your cellar. Speaking of the Right Loire Valley..................................................23 right now. Whether you’re talking about a Bank, the 2009 Vrai Canon Bouche ($27.99) Portugal & Spain ........................................21 $9.99 wine or a $199.99 wine, the 2009s consis- from Canon Fronsac really surprised us with Pre-Arrivals ................................................13 tently taste fruity and forward. But do not its mineral aromas and flavors—we thought it Rhône & French Regional .......................... 8 drink most of them right now—you can age was from Pessac. Spirits ..........................................................31 these wines for many years in your cellar. Wine Accessories & Storage........................29 There are plenty of ripe, round tannins hidden You get the point: no matter if the wine is from Wine Clubs ..............................................3, 30 under the tremendous fruit and the acidity the Right or Left Bank, Graves or Sauternes, levels are fine. I was just talking to Ralph and you can count on the 2009s to give you many Columns Jeff yesterday, and they commented that the years of drinking pleasure. Buy $9.99 wines to Adam Parry ................................................11 July customer Bordeaux tasting was the best drink now, and save the others for years. To me Bryan Brick ..............................................8, 9 they had done in a long time—every wine was fruit content is the best preservative in wine, Chiara Shannon’s Sommelier Notes..............3 delicious and every wine had its fans. Ralph not tannin. And 2009 has both. End of story. Chris Miller ................................................25 and Jeff loved the 2009 Le Thil Blanc ($24.99) Just buy cases of these beauties. Christie Cartwright ....................................10 as the starter and the 2009 Roûmieu-Lacoste, Clyde Beffa ................................................2, 6 Sauternes (375ml $21.99) as the closer. In We will feature a lot of these 2009 Bordeaux Clyde “Trey” Beffa III....................................1 between they tasted the fruit bomb 2009 values at our September 15th Bordeaux David Driscoll ............................................31 Lagrange, St-Julien ($64.99)—Ralph/Jeff tasting/lunch in Redwood City. It is the best David Othenin-Girard................................31 think it’s their best wine since 2000. The 2009 value meal of the year at Chantilly, next to our Eric Story ....................................................23 Kirwan ($59.99) is surely their best effort in Redwood City store. See our events page (3) for Gary Westby ..................................................7 many years; same for the 2009 Beychevelle more details. Toujours Bordeaux. Getting to Know K&L ................................25 ($99.99). From the north, the often hard- Greg St. Clair ..............................................26 edged Sociando-Mallet ($49.99) was soft as a Clyde Beffa Jr. Jeff Garneau ..................................................5 Jim C’s View Down Under..........................22 Jim’s Gems....................................................24 Joe Manekin’s Lo Auténtico ........................21 K&L LOCATIONS, HOURS AND INFORMATION Keith Wollenberg ........................................28