Three Perfect Days

CharSouth leCarolinaston

Back in 1874, The Atlanta Daily Herald’s Henry W. Grady coined the term “the New South” to encourage people to move beyond the fraught antebellum period and see the region in a fresh light, “thrilling with the consciousness of growing power and prosperity.” That tag has been bandied about in recent years—Nashville is the capital of the New South one day, Atlanta the next—but nowhere are that growing power and prosperity more evident than in South Carolina’s largest city, where it seems as if 10 new (and great) restaurants open each month, where Volvo just set up shop with a $1.1 billion plant and Boeing is building its 787 Dreamliners, where 28 people move in each day. The Holy City is a mecca for tourists—6.9 million came in 2017, probably half of them for a wedding— By Ellen Carpenter • Photography by Peter Frank Edwards who are just as hungry for rice grits and selfies in front of Georgian row houses as they are for a history lesson. What they’ll find will fill them up and still leave them asking for seconds, albeit very politely.

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R2_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 38 09/01/2019 10:42 R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 39 08/01/2019 09:09 DAY Charleston (built in 1713). He’s “ What better way about to lead me, my husband, Chris, our 6-year-old son, to get a first Calder, and five other history- grader excited hungry out-of-towners on one of his daily Charleston Pirate about history Tours, and to spin yarns about than having a “the who’s who of pirates that came through.” guy with a parrot Charleston’s history is on his shoulder intrinsically linked to piracy (did you know pirates intro- tell him about duced the rice that’s so integral beheadings and to Lowcountry grits, bringing it from Madagascar?), which is pillaging?” why we want to start our trip with Captain Eric. What better way to get a f irst-grader excited enough for us,” Eric jokes), and about history than handing past the multicolored houses him a foam sword and ban - on Instagram-friendly Rain- danna and having a guy with a bow Row and the country’s parrot on his shoulder tell him oldest liquor store (“Charles- about beheadings and pillag- ton is a drinking city with a ing? As we amble through the history problem”), Eric tells us Historic District, down Unity about famous pirates of yore— Alley, where George Washing- Mrs. Chang, Stede Bonnet, ton kept his mules when he was Anne Bonny, and, of course, in town (“If it’s good enough Blackbeard, who marauded for Washington’s ass, it’s good the port of Charleston before

► Playing pirate, “firing” cannons, and plowing through pimento cheese

et’s go ahead and get the kid questions out 1of the way: Yes, I’m a real pirate. No, I’m notL f iring my gun. Yes, my par- rot is real. No, we’re not gonna take any ships. No, pirates did not make enemies walk the plank—that was Peter Pan.” Eric Lavender, swash - buckling chic in full pirate

Opening spread, from regalia—tricornered hat, left: the backside of the knee-high suede boots, black Dock Street Theatre; the Historic District’s breeches, regal gray captain’s colorful Elliott Street; coat with pewter buttons, this spread, from left: Eric Lavender pistol at one hip, saber at the of Charleston Pirate other—is standing in front of Tours; the meticulous garden at the Pineapple the Powder Magazine, the old- Gates House est government building in

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R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 40 08/01/2019 09:09 R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 41 08/01/2019 09:09 “We amble through the Historic District, past the multicolored houses on Instagram-friendly Rainbow Row and the country’s oldest liquor store.”

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R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 42 08/01/2019 09:09 R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 43 08/01/2019 09:09 the Charleston City Market before dinner. It seems as if every tourist in town has the same idea. The market, a series of sheds that stretches four city blocks, opened in 1804— statesman Charles Coteswor- thy Pinckney gave the land to the city, stipulating that it had to be used as a market “in perpetuity.” I doubt they had a Christmas shop open year-round in 1804, but they do now, along with 300 other spots, including a toy store, a haberdashery, and a handful of places selling traditional sweetgrass baskets. We stop to watch an artisan weave one, her nimble fingers method- ically alternating strands of dried native sweetgrass. I want to buy one, but Calder is wan- ing and I realize we better get him fed before a meltdown Previous spread: toasts that are way better than for granted,” Drass says, as the ensues. Traveling with kids! Rainbow Row, a series of pastel Georgian pimento cheese has any busi- group folds the flag, south to Fortunately, our hotel, the houses on East Bay ness being. The fried chicken north, north to south, then in grand Belmond Charleston Street dating back to about 1740; this page: has the kind of crackly crust triangles. “I submit to you that Place, is a block away, and the Charleston Grill, you only see on TV, and the America is an amazing coun- dinner is just downstairs, at where a jazz trio plays the . We do every night Bibb lettuce salad is a lesson in try,” he continues. “We are a Charleston Grill simplicity. The only negative is diverse country. It’s inherent a quick costume change— that we’re too full to eat dessert. we’re going to have differ - thank goodness for our spa- Chris and I figure we should ences. But despite all of our cious suite’s two bathrooms— meeting his bitter end off of keep the history lesson going, differences, we have one com- and make it to the restaurant North Carolina’s Outer Banks. so we take a cab to the water- mon denominator: We are only five minutes late for our “You know how he knows all front and catch the ferry to Fort all Americans.” The crowd is reservation. Five minutes after that stuff?” Calder whispers, Sumter, where the first shots silent, and more than a few that, I’m sipping a glass of Bone after Captain Eric lets each of of the Civil War were fired people wipe away tears, me Dry rosé (Calder goes pink too, us hold one of his weapons for in 1861. I grew up spending included, and then everyone with a Shirley Temple) and a final group photo. “Because my spring breaks touring breaks into applause. we’re enjoying the jazz trio’s he’s a real pirate.” Success. Civil War battlef ields and forts rendition of “Billie’s Bounce.” After two hours of walking, with my American historian I devour my crab cake, we’re ready to eat. Luckily, mother, but I’d forgotten how “ The addictively bathed in a lemony butter Husk is just four blocks from fascinating they are for kids. As sauce, while Calder co-opts the Old Exchange Build- soon as we reach the fort, Calder sharp pimento Chris’s charred octopus. “Next ing, where our tour ends. is off: hiding in the shadows of cheese toasts time, you’re getting your own Just as piracy put Charles - the munitions room, looking appetizer,” Chris tells him as ton on the map back in the for enemy ships through peep- are way better he concedes the plate. We all late 1600s, Husk ushered in holes, loading the cannons with than pimento trade bites of our mains—sea the city’s foodie era when imaginary gunpowder. When bass in a creamy curry sauce it opened in 2010. Found- he sticks his head inside the cheese has any for me, scallops with salsa ing chef Sean Brock recently barrel of a columbiad cannon, business being.” verde for Chris, kid’s menu departed for Nashville, but I explain how that’s not proper spaghetti for Calder—and then the restaurant—located in a protocol—but only after I snap take turns choosing from the beautiful, late-19th-century a photo. The sun is already setting assortment of chocolates and Queen Anne–style home—and Before heading back on the when we make it back to the gelées that our waiter brings executive chef Travis Grimes ferry, everyone convenes for mainland, but we decide to us as a parting gift. We leave still celebrate Lowcountry the lowering of the f lag. A park walk the 15 minutes back to humming the strains of “The cooking with highfalutin tech- ranger, James Drass, invites the Historic District (it’s easy Very Thought of You,” take nique. We start with addic- 20 volunteers to come help. to get around on foot down- the elevator upstairs, and tively sharp pimento cheese “Don’t ever take your freedom town) and meander through promptly pass out.

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R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 44 08/01/2019 09:10 DAY a carriage pulled by two brown BBQ himself for a lesson in and white horses, Sally and whole hog cooking. Scott won Deedee. Horse-drawn car- the James Beard Award for riages seem to outnumber Best Chef: Southeast in May, cars downtown—a trend just a year after opening his Palmetto Carriage Works restaurant in the North Cen- launched in 1972 when it tral neighborhood. “Now I became the first company to can’t go anywhere without offer tours. And the horses, someone recognizing me,” I’ve made sure, are well Scott says with an easy smile cared-for: They work only as he leads me from the bright five hours a day and get to restaurant to the pit out back. spend about five months a “People at the airport will be year relaxing on a farm on like, ‘Are you that guy?’” Johns Island. Our guide, Gay Spear, is brash and witty and an endless font of informa- “ When he opens tion. As we mosey along, past landmarks like the Circular the door to the Congregational Church on pit, the smell of Meeting Street and dozens of perfectly preserved his - oak and hickory toric homes, she offers up practically funny one-liners (“If you dig here, you’re gonna f ind one of knocks me over.” two things: a cannonball or a body”) and interesting design notes, like the origin of the When he opens the door to pineapple as welcome sign. the pit, the smell of oak and Turns out back in the 1700s hickory practically knocks me women used to put pineap - over—in the best way possible. ples out on the gate port to let He heads over to the fire and people know their husbands shovels a pile of wood coals were home from their sailing into one of the f ive pits, some- voyages—or “to let their lovers thing staffers do every 15 to 20 ► Making BBQ, know not to come that night!” minutes. “It’s more procedure We bid farewell to Sally and than secret,” he says, as one of rescuing sea turtles, Deedee, and then I bid farewell his employees mops “Rodney to Calder and Chris—they Sauce” over the hogs. and rocking out have a date with the rooftop I somehow refrain from rip- pool at the Belmond, while I’m ping off a piece of meat to eat due to meet Mr. Rodney Scott right then and there, and head

promised myself bis- cuits for breakfast every 2morning in Charleston, and by golly I’m starting Iout right at Hominy Grill, a beloved 23-year-old spot in the residential Cannonborough- Elliotborough neighborhood, just north of downtown, that serves breakfast all day. I go savory with biscuits and gravy while Chris and Calder both go for pancakes, fluffy and stacked high. The coffee ref ills keep coming, and in no time

From left: an 1857 we’re ready to tackle the day. Italianate home in We hop a cab back to the the Historic District; Rodney Scott at his Historic District and climb namesake BBQ spot into a different set of wheels:

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R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 46 08/01/2019 09:10 R2_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 47 09/01/2019 10:41 a bucket of fish ready to feed “ The turtles are the blacktip, sand tiger, and nurse sharks. Calder asks why named for Harry the sharks don’t eat the other Potter characters; fish in the tank, and Cas - well responds, “Would you Voldemort and rather take a free meal or cook Hagrid are your own?” “I’d rather have Mommy cook me a meal,” dead ringers.” Calder says. That’s my boy. Tonight, however, Mom- array of pickled vegetables, my’s leaving the cooking to including okra, which Calder the pros. From the aquarium, inhales. The manager notices we hop a ride up King Street— his fondness for pickles and a 300-year-old thoroughfare brings us another helping. that’s now restaurant row, My glass of gamay pairs per- basically—for dinner at The fectly with my duck confit, Grocery, a farm-to-table cooked with shatteringly crisp spot that’s a fixture on Eater skin. Chris is so into his snap- Charleston’s “essential” list. per that he forgets to give me We start with the charcuterie a bite, and Calder attacks his plate, which features duck- pizza as if he hasn’t eaten all liver mousse topped with day. (Note for parents: There’s watermelon-rind mostarda, a “verbal” kids menu.) We cap sopressata, coppa, and an it off with a shared banana

SHIPSHAPE

back into the restaurant for a This page, from top: the Great Ocean Tank proper lunch: a big pile of pork, at the South Carolina potato salad, and coleslaw with Aquarium; a patient at the Zucker Family Sea a sweet iced tea that is sweeter Turtle Recovery than any iced tea I’ve ever had (and I grew up in Kentucky). The vinegar tang of the Rod- ney Sauce cuts through the fat Recovery, which the aquarium of the meat perfectly, and I’m opened in 2017. Sea turtles are in hog heaven. Calder’s favorite animal, so Now it’s time to feed some- he couldn’t be more excited to thing else: We’ve arranged play vet at the interactive sta- for Calder to get a behind- tions where he can “diagnose” the-scenes tour of the South a sick turtle and also meet Carolina Aquarium, where the rehabilitating patients Charleston started out as a port town, so what more historically he is literally able to feed the currently swimming in indi- accurate way to see the city than by sailboat? The mighty Schooner sharks. But first we check out vidual tanks. Many of them are Pride is a three-masted ship, modeled after an 18th-century beauty, the Zucker Family Sea Turtle named for Harry Potter char- that ferries guests on two-hour sunset cruises or afternoon dolphin- acters; Voldemort and Hagrid spotting trips. On our sunset cruise, Captain Jenny Smith asks Calder

are dead ringers. if he’ll help raise the sail, and when he gamely pulls the ropes, his ) After a trip to the gift shop little 6-year-old muscles straining with each tug, everyone cheers. to buy a snap-bracelet sea tur- As we pass Fort Sumter and the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, we chat

tle stuff ie (yes, it’s a thing), we with a few of our 40 fellow sailors—honeymooners from Florida, a Pride Schooner meet our behind-the-scenes couple from New Jersey having a romantic kids-free trip, and also guide, Lea Caswell, who leads Captain Jenny, who’s been (wo)manning the Schooner Pride for eight us to the top of the 42-foot years. “We tried doing a narrated tour,” she says, “but by the time Great Ocean Tank (the tall - people get here, they’ve been talked to all week. We’d rather talk est in North America), where with them and let them see the city from a different perspective.”

another aquarium worker has $54 for adults, $30 for ages 11 and under, schoonerpride.com ( Charleston Explore Courtesy of

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R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 48 08/01/2019 09:10 “A rock band is playing on the stage behind the bar, smoke machines in full effect.”

From top: to Charleston in 2006 after a the train tracks that’s now a band performs behind the bar at decade in . I meet them a music club. A rock band is The Royal American; and James Hynes, the CEO of playing on a stage behind the the charcuterie spread at The Grocery local recording studio and bar, smoke machines in full record label Rialto Row, at effect, and the place is packed The Rarebit, which they tell shoulder to shoulder with me has “the best Moscow 20-somethings sipping beers. pudding topped with gorgeous mules anywhere.” We grab a round and take a peaks of toasted meringue. The band is in the thick of seat on the patio, where we Calder’s ready to pass out, recording a new album, their compete with passing trains but I have a big night ahead of first time doing so in Charles- to be heard. It’s approach - me. While the boys roll back ton. Bridwell actually rented a ing 11 now, bedtime for me— to the Belmond, I head down plantation—on Airbnb!—for but the guys’ night is just get- King Street for a night out on a personal writer’s retreat. “A ting started. They’re raring the town with the Grammy- real-a** plantation!” he says, to head into Rialto Row to nominated rock group Band eyes wide. “For $150 a night!” Americana, melodic punk…” record. “We’ll work until 3 or of Horses. Shaggy-haired lead The music scene in Charleston, So, basically, it’s cool now. 4, go home and sleep a couple singer grew up he says, has changed dramat- To show me just how cool, hours, and be up with our kids in South Carolina, and he ically in the past few years— they take me to the center of at 6,” says Barrett. “It’s great.” and mustachioed drummer from “residual Dead hippie the scene: The Royal Ameri- Amazed at their stamina, I say Creighton Barrett relocated college stuff” to “, can, a former ironworks on g’night and leave them to it.

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R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 50 08/01/2019 09:10 DAY that this ocean is the same one we have in New York. All this oceanside action has us hungry for some sea- food, so we drive back into town for lunch at Leon’s Oyster Shop, a fun spot on the upper reaches of King Street famous for oysters, yes, but also fried chicken. The space, a former auto body shop, is kitted out in fairy lights and maritime paint- ings. Chris and I f ight over the car for the day and cruise over last of the chargrilled oysters, the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, which taste like ocean and with its two diamond-shaped fire bathed in butter, while cable towers, through Mount Calder happily munches his Pleasant, and on to the sand- fried shrimp. I move on to lined streets of Sullivan’s in the fried chicken sandwich, just 25 minutes. On the agenda: moist and crunchy and served roll up our pants and splash in with a cooling cucumber and the waves, hunt for seashells, sesame seed salad, and Chris and admire the gorgeous opts for the seafood fry-up. three-story cottages lining Calder declares his rainbow the wide beach. Calder keeps sprinkle–topped soft-serve his eyes peeled for sea turtles to better than Mister Softee in rescue and is amazed to learn New York.

► Catching waves, slurping oysters, and looking through an artist’s lens

3h, biscuits, how I love you. This morning we feast at Callie’s Hot LittleO Biscuit on King Street, where the line is already out the door by 8:30 a.m. We dig into a variety of fluffy buttermilk creations: plain, cheddar-chive, blackberry jam–topped. I pop the mini cinnamon ones like Cheetos. This page, from top: the I want to get some to go, but Panic Button cocktail at The Living Room, in I know we have a full day of The Dewberry; a brick eating ahead. walkway at Waterfront Park; opposite page: But first, a beach excursion Leon’s Oyster Shop to Sullivan’s Island. We rent a

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R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 52 08/01/2019 09:10 R1_38-55_HEMI0219_3PD5.indd 53 08/01/2019 09:10 Chef Shaun Brian, wearing room, past Calder asleep on a white apron and a bicycle the velvet couch, turtle stuffie cap, swings by to say hello. He tucked under his arm, and join grew up on St. John—he moved Chris in the four-post bed. We to Charleston after losing his pass the pie back and forth—it restaurant there to hurricanes goes great with my Dewberry Irma and Maria—so he comes Daiquiri—and share photos by the island influence in his from the trip, laughing at the cooking naturally. “It makes videos Calder took without a lot more sense than I ever our knowledge on the carriage thought it would‚” he says, tour. One starts on a perfectly giving me a thorough his - preserved Federal-style home tory of the spice trade and and then goes slo-mo (Calder’s the Caribbean’s influence favorite video function), on Charleston, going back to weaving down the street and the 1600s. “At the end of the stopping at a dump truck out- day, I still think of myself as side a derelict home ready to be an ambassador for my home remade. The signif icance—the islands, but I’m in a place city’s constant push and pull to where I have much more abil- preserve and reinvent itself— ity to make an impact.” doesn’t hit me until we turn off I get a slice of sweet potato the lights and say good night. pie to go for Chris and walk back to The Dewberry. There’s a wedding party going hard Come for the pirate lore; stay in the ballroom, but The Liv- for the biscuits: There’s no place ing Room, with its beautiful like Charleston, and United has bronze bar, is calm and invit- plenty of daily flights to get ing, so I get a couple of drinks you there. Visit united.com or to take upstairs for us to enjoy check the United mobile app for with the pie. I tiptoe into our schedules and details.

This page: Sullivan’s and high school homecoming Parcel 32, a new Lowcountry- with the fam: I start with a Island; opposite page: the pecan- queens. Seeing all these Caribbean restaurant with an pecan-smoked fish spread smoked fish spread snippets of life makes me airy, outside-in design. I take served with Ritz crackers at Parcel 32 think that there’s not just one a seat at the bar and get the and pecan-meal hush pup - South—it’s impossible to gen- pirate-inspired Anne Bonny pies topped with pimento eralize about or judge such a rum cocktail (and some - cheese and Benton’s bacon We check into our new wide swath of our country. how refrain from making powder. (I need a jar of that digs, The Dewberry, a hip Calder’s beat and not up an “arrrr” joke). Serendip - in my life.) Next are short Mid-Century Modern–style for a restaurant meal; Chris itously, ’ ribs, fragrant with clove, all- hotel that opened in 2016 in a gamely offers to take him “The Funeral” plays over the spice, and nutmeg atop a former 1960s federal build- back to the hotel for some stereo. Even though I’m bed of creamy coconut-milk ing, and while all we want takeout so I can keep my res at dining alone, I order as if I’m Carolina Gold rice grits. to do is take a nap, we rally and cross Marion Square to The Halsey Institute of WHERE TO STAY Contemporary Art at the College of Charleston. I’m eager to see the current ex hibit, Southbound: Photographs of The Dewberry Belmond Charleston Place and About the New South, which runs through March This former federal office building is now A modern grande dame smack in the middle of the and features images taken by one of the most stylish hotels in town, with Historic District, the Belmond offers a luxurious 56 21st-century artists explor- vintage Mid-Century Modern furniture as well stay for honeymooners and families alike. ing their perceptions of the as bespoke pieces (floral armoires and a brass Splendor abounds, from the hand-blown glass American South. The variety recreation of an 1861 city map). Cypress wood chandelier in the lobby to the retractable-glass- is astounding. There are shots lines the walls of the spa, where treatments roofed saltwater pool, but the vibe is easygoing of Civil War reenactors, Black utilize local rice and dewberry. Relax further and friendly. Book a Club-level room for added Lives Matter marches, empty with a drink at the new rooftop bar, the Citrus perks, such as a buffet breakfast and cocktail- storefronts, migrant workers, Club. From $350, thedewberrycharleston.com hour libations and bites. From $325, belmond.com

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