Holidays Solomons
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HOLIDAYS SOLOMONS NATION OF RICHES MORE VALUABLE THAN GOLD Revelling in his visit to “the bullseye of biodiversity”, MARK B HATTER brings us the first of two reports from the Solomon Islands ARRIVED A BIT EARLY in Munda, a that it was nearly dark. “Well,” I muttered town in the Solomon Islands’ Western to no-one in particular, as I ambled IProvince. I checked into the Agnes back to SIDE [Solomon Islands Dive Gateway Hotel, then walked the short Expeditions], “the diver must have distance under triple-canopy tropical decided to go after all.” shade from my cabana to SIDE Dive Jos had nearly finished rinsing dive- Munda, behind the check-in building. kits as I approached. “I knocked on Although my dive booking was not your door three times,” he offered until the following day, I was eager to get apologetically, “but you didn’t answer.” under water ASAP, if at all possible. I guess the jet lag of 36 hours’ travel “I think one of the divers has opted had finally caught up with me. out of diving this afternoon,” divemaster “No worries!” I assured him. “This Jos Smulders said promisingly. “You’re afternoon would have been a bonus dive welcome to join us if that’s the case – I’ll anyway.” But missing the dive would (tamu garata). This, of course, was before know for sure after lunch.” mean yet another night of anticipation the intervention of Western missionaries Above: Rainbow Reef. I gave Jos my cabana number and and fitful sleep, especially after crashing in the early 20th century. A small number asked him if he would drop by to let me hard in the afternoon. of skulls of former tribal leaders and know, one way or another. Then I headed And it was a restless night. Visions of vanquished enemies not destroyed in the to the adjacent hotel restaurant patio to WW2 wreckage and pastel-coloured war have been preserved at sacred Skull order lunch, before heading back to my reefs adjacent to emerald islands set Island, in Roviana Lagoon, in shrines digs to prepare my kit. between ribbons of aquamarine and decorated with traditional shell money. Between bites of delicious grilled reef indigo waters assaulted my Next, consider the geography. The fish and UK-quality chips, I carefully subconscious. It was a night of a Solomon Islands archipelago stretches assembled cameras, strobes and other “thousand naps”, leaving me in a granny- north-west to south-east some 930 miles, requisite paraphernalia before lying knot of sheets by daybreak. just below the Equator between the Coral down for a quick cat-nap. Sea and the south-western Pacific Ocean. I woke several hours later, alarmed Y NIGHT VISIONS were not With a total landmass of 11,000sq Mwithout merit. The nation of the miles, the six major and 900-plus smaller Solomon Islands, named by Spanish islands generate substantial submarine navigator Alvaro de Mendana in 1568 real estate in the forms of plunging walls, after the biblical King Solomon, and in dynamic fringe, coastal and barrier reefs, the mistaken assumption that the bommie-filled lagoons and reef-ringed islands contained great riches, is indeed submerged atolls. wealthy on many levels beyond gold And, with the Solomon Islands fitting and gemstones. into the innermost ring next to the The nation’s cultural history is bulls-eye of marine biodiversity in the amazing, from its 74 endemic languages Coral Triangle, riches await divers in the to the practice of head-hunting between nation’s underwater realm. rival warring tribes for power, politics, Finally, ponder the amazing wealth of influence and overall good juju. historic wreckage from WW2 found Pictured: Photographing It was believed that it was necessary to throughout the country. Fierce battles the cockpit of the Douglas carry a victim’s head on the maiden fought between the USA and its allies Dauntless aircraft. voyage of a canoe to prevent jinxing it against the Japanese Imperial Forces ☛ divEr 40 41 divEr HOLIDAYS SOLOMONS from 1942 to 1945 left many aircraft, image with my wide-angle kit. small boats, freighters and warships sunk As we approached the end in water shallow enough to explore on of the spur, the wall began to open-circuit scuba rigs. slope gently and the seafans Which is why I was in Munda, trying to gave way to colourful tabling get aboard a dive-boat a day early. A diver corals, competing for limited visiting the Solomon Islands has multiple space. I noticed a large geographical options, and I had opted for magnificent anemone two weeks of land-based exploration: hosting a pair of pink skunk a week in the Western Province diving out anemonefish, more suited to of Munda, and another in the Eastern my camera set-up. Province’s Florida Islands (the subject of As we dived on through another story to come). the day, I racked up a Additional options include two satisfying collection of liveaboards out of Honiara, the capital images that would keep me on the largest island, Guadalcanal in the busy later at the computer – Eastern Province. assuming that I could keep my eyes open. AMBLED DOWN to the restaurant The following day Jos had Ideck overlooking a smooth Roviana a plan for us to complete Lagoon. It was still too early for everyone, four dives, beginning on the including the water-taxis that are the edge of SIDE’s diving range. optimum transportation among islanders “I want to start at Mbigo Mbigo, because and tourists alike. we should have good morning light to Above: The P-39 Airacobra clear ocean. I rode the light current down The sun was high enough for me to capture the sun’s rays in images,” he wreck. the deep canyon in the reef, paused to peer into the shallow water below the explained. “The reef is on the outer edge absorb the spectacular vista, then gently deck, and I considered finding a giant of the lagoon, adjacent to blue water, so glided down over the lip of the outer wall carpet anemone hosting a family of we should have exceptional visibility. And into 300m of water. clownfish a good omen. the spur-and-groove reef system should The dive was all Jos had promised, After breakfast, and an entertaining provide for some dramatic photography.” perfect for shooting sun-rays against a session throwing bread scraps to the fat Our panga pilot navigated expertly Below: Anemone cleaner canyon backdrop of reef structure. If only archerfish under the deck (incredibly, around shallow brown and green shrimp in a Merten’s my strobes could achieve the impossible they are able to follow the arc of a well- bommies and over pearly-white sandbars anemone at Haipe Reef. energy required to illuminate the distant thrown scrap and meet it on impact), between the islands of my dreams. Walt pastel vista that I knew existed at 20m. Bottom: Purple-violet I met Jos at the dive shop. With a large Disney could not have designed a better magnificent anemone with Jos suggested that it might be time to group of divers just departed it would be boat-ride in a tropical paradise. pink skunk anemonefish at switch to macro for our last dive of the only me, Jos and another diver from By 8.30am we rolled into a smooth Secret Spot. day at Secret Spot. “This is one of SIDE’s Australia for the next several days. favourite sites,” he said. “It’s a vertical wall SIDE has established more than 40 with a strong current pushing in one or dive-sites within 5-40 minutes’ boat-ride, the other direction, depending on the and the evening before I had given Jos my tide. And the wall has the most varieties of critter and wreck wish-list. To start he had nudibranchs of any reef we dive.” selected Shark Point, a spur of barrier reef extending into deep ocean on the seaward T WAS LATE AFTERNOON by the time side of the expansive Roviana Lagoon. Iwe had offgassed enough to dive Secret We began the dive at 30m along a Spot but I struggled to find nudis in the vertical wall festooned with jumbo low light and strong current. However, seafans in a variety of colours, and I was suddenly happy with the macro kit followed the sweep of the current to the when I came across a rare purple-violet point. Almost immediately we were magnificent anemone with a pair of very visited by a grey reef shark, perhaps the pink skunk anemonefish. largest I’d ever seen, but it kept a typical The mated pair posed perfectly, and arm’s length away, preventing a good I was congratulating myself when Jos pointed up to the reef crown at the top of the wall. There, in 2m depth, thousands of surgeonfish were beginning to spawn; rapidly rocketing up out of the vast school in small groups to milk the water with released gametes from both sexes. I shook my head in disbelief; I had the wrong kit, but simply enjoyed the spectacular display of raw biology until it was time to surface. Over the following days I worked through my wish-list, including the endemic white bonnet anemonefish. With a laptop flush with reef-work, it was time to dive a couple of aircraft shot down ☛ 43 divEr HOLIDAYS SOLOMONS during WW2. Our final dives included the small aerial-combat P-39 Airacobra fighter and Douglas SBD-4 Dauntless dive-bomber. Discovered only in 2011, little is known about the fighter, which Jos believes was part of the USAAF 68th Squadron.