THE WILD CASCADES THE JOURNAL OF THE NORTH CASCADES CONSERVATION COUNCIL WINTER 2003-2004

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 1 he North Cascades Conservation T Council was formed in 1957 “To THE WILD CASCADES ! Winter 2003-2004 protect and preserve the North Cascades’ scenic, scientific, recreational, educa- tional, and wilderness values.” Continu- In This Issue ing this mission, NCCC keeps govern- ment officials, environmental organiza- 3 The President’s report — MARC BARDSLEY tions, and the general public informed 4 NPS plans more building in Stehekin — CAROLYN MCCONNELL about issues affecting the Greater North Cascades Ecosystem. Action is pursued 5 Management changes necessary in National Forest Plan update — through legislative, legal, and public par- KARL FORSGAARD ticipation channels to protect the lands, waters, plants and wildlife. 6 Crumbling roads taken out — October 2003 — RICK MCGUIRE Over the past third of a century the 7 From Ross Dam to the Environmental Learning Center — TOM NCCC has led or participated in cam- BRUCKER paigns to create the North Cascades Na- tional Park Complex, Glacier Peak Wil- 9 A great and famous victory for hikers — H.M. derness, and other units of the National NCCC wins a couple rounds in the thinning wars — RICK MCGUIRE Wilderness System from the W.O. Dou- glas Wilderness north to the Alpine Lakes 10 Varieties of Wilderness experience — HARVEY MANNING Wilderness, the Henry M. Jackson Wil- derness, the Chelan-Sawtooth Wilder- 12 Once more unto the Fee Demo, Friends! ness and others. Among its most dramatic Fee Demo — We won but we have far to go — SCOTT SILVER victories has been working with British Columbia allies to block the raising of 14 Frolics in the federal forests — KEVIN GERAGHTY Ross Dam, which would have drowned Big Beaver Valley. 15 A second chance for salmon — SAVE OUR WILD SALMON

16 Comments on FS OUtfitter-Guide EA — PHIL LEATHERMAN MEMBERSHIP 18 Public supports grizzly bear recovery in the North Cascades The NCCC is supported by member Bear attitudes about humans — KEN WILCOX dues and private donations. These sup- Protect BC grizzly bear habitat port publication of The Wild Cascades and lobbying activities. (NCCC is a non- 22 The Wild Sky — H.M. tax-deductible 501(c)4 organization.) Membership dues for one year are: $10 Cascades Foothills Initiative - low income/student; $20 - regular; $25 23 Goose-Maverick off-road vehicle trail project back on track - family; $50.00 - Contributing; $100 - patron; $1000 - Sustaining. A one-time 24 Wild Sky deserves our delegation’s support — EVERETT HERALD life membership dues payment is $500. ! Cover photo: Shuksan Lite — Ken Wilcox The North Cascades Foundation supports the NCCC’s nonpolitical ef- The Wild Cascades forts. Donations are tax-deductible as a 501(c)3 organization. Please make your Journal of the North Cascades Conservation Council check(s) out to the organization of your EDITOR: Betty Manning choice. The Foundation can be reached Printing by EcoGraphics through NCCC mailing address: The Wild Cascades is published three times a year (Spring, Summer/Fall, Winter). NCCC members receive this journal. Address letters, comments, send articles to: North Cascades Conservation Council The Wild Cascades Editor P.O. Box 95980 North Cascades Conservation Council University Station University Station, Seattle, WA 98145-2980 Seattle, WA 98145-2980

The Wild Cascades is printed on recycled paper with soy-based ink. NCCC Website www.northcascades.org

2 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 NCCC Board

President Marc Bardsley Founded in 1957 SEATTLE, WASHINGTON Board Chairman Patrick Goldsworthy

Vice President Charles Ehlert The President’s Report Winter 2003-2004 Treasurer Tom Brucker The North Cascades Conservation Council, as most of us know, is a small but hard-hitting group with a reputation for mixing it up with Secretary politicians and bureaucrats that threaten the values we hold dear. The Phil Zalesky environmental community generally lets us look after issues in the North Cascades and follows our lead when an important matter Bruce Barnbaum surfaces. Almost as important as being at the front of these actions is the Polly Dyer follow through. In order to follow through, we need to have our members and readers help with the letters, emails and phone calls to John Edwards officials. The more folks the better, of course. And now to the point Dave Fluharty — we would be more effective with more members. We need your help to recruit a few more people to read The Wild Cascades, provide Karl Forsgaard funds, and help spread our message.

Kevin Geraghty I am asking all of you reading this Kevin Herrick to please let me know the name and Conway Leovy address of one or two of your like- Harvey Manning minded friends or family members who Betty Manning might consider joining the NCCC. Carolyn McConnell

Rick McGuire Please check out our updated website at www.northcascades.org and use the convenient contact address there. Our membership Thom Peters chairman will send a small package of recruiting material to the lucky person and perhaps we will gain a little help in our collective efforts Ken Wilcox to stymie the pervasive commercialism of our time.

Laura Zalesky

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 3 NPS Plans More Building in Stehekin CAROLYN MCCONNELL

The Park Service has issued another support this, that there is need for the conditional use permit on the corral. odd environmental assessment (EA) for a additional staff housing, there are other My understanding is that the corral would, project in Stehekin. This latest one ways to fill that need than those considered or certainly could, be moved on to the purports to deal with demolishing an old in the EA. The most obvious is rental of newly privatized land. Surely some cabin used as Park Service housing and housing from private owners, as in fact the consideration of this eventuality ought to restoring the site. Having spent time at the staff who currently live in the newly built be included in assessing this option, which Griffith cabin, I am pleased that the Park is NPS housing did for a number of years. is “Alternative C” in the EA. It is not at all considering removing this structure. It is That house is now uninhabited and clear to me that clearing and disrupting dank, dark, dilapidated, and in the flood available. There is other unoccupied otherwise undisturbed land, as envisioned plain. It is not a place anyone would want housing in Stehekin. Such an alternative in the “preferred alternative” is in fact to live, and its removal will be a step toward would no doubt be less expensive, at least preferable to placing a new house on the restoring the wildness of that bit of the in initial cost, than building new Park already disturbed corral site and restoring Stehekin Valley. It is encouraging to see the Service housing. native vegetation to the remainder. This Park considering taking a step toward Another unconsidered alternative is could include reforestation, which might reversing the rapid development of the purchasing private land that has housing well make this housing site not visible from Stehekin Valley that has occurred since the on it. Ultimately, the purported need to the road in the future. 1968 creation of the Park Complex and build new staff housing is just one of many I applaud the Park for choosing as continues unabated. bad results of the Park’s failure to pursue preferred, among the building sites, the However, this good step is not in fact land acquisition in the Stehekin Valley. It is site that is not visible from the Stehekin what the current environmental assess- ironic that as a result of a Park policy that road (although I doubt that it truly is not ment addresses, as the EA states there are fails to stem private development (and in visible in winter months; the house built by no funds currently available for removing conjunction with other Park policies that the NPS in 2003 is visible in the winter). the Griffith Cabin. Under none of the actively encourage development), the Park Yet I cannot regard this as the truly alternatives considered would the cabin finds it must itself further develop the preferable alternative. Indeed, the EA itself actually be removed. This makes the EA an Stehekin Valley. The EA mentions that states that Alternative A is the “Environmen- altogether odd document. development in the Stehekin Valley has tally Preferred Alternative,” yet not the Also odd about the EA is that nowhere proceeded in the last ten years, but “Preferred Alternative.” This is another in it are figures detailing the staffing levels nowhere does it mention the possibility of oddity of the document. It is an oddity that in the Lake Chelan National Recreation any Park influence on the extent of private has been found in other recent North Area. Thus, need for the additional housing development. Cascades National Park EA’s; such a is not demonstrated. Given the Park’s Plans to build new staff housing in this pattern ought to give Park Service manage- mandate to protect the scenery and area contradict the 1995 General Manage- ment pause. Could it suggest a divergence wildness of the valley, any proposal by the ment Plan (GMP), which calls for construc- of policy from the Park mission of protect- Park to introduce new development must tion of a large number of housing units ing the environment under its jurisdiction? meet a high standard of evidence that the around the emergency airstrip. I would I consider this EA entirely inadequate. development is absolutely essential for the grant that the GMP’s proposal to build That said, I regard Alternative A, the Park’s mission. In this case, such a seven 3-bedroom houses, nine 2-bedroom Environmentally Preferred Alternative, as standard has in no way been met. apartments, and 25 efficiency apartments by definition the preferable alternative Based on my own observation, I do was preposterous (where is the need for among those considered. not believe staffing levels in Stehekin have such a city?), and I presume subsequent A postscript on this matter offers a grown in recent years. Indeed, given the Park decisions regarding staff housing in lesson in how little it can take to amplify current funding environment, I would Stehekin reflect unspoken acceptance that one’s individual voice: I managed to presume they have fallen or will fall. Even the airstrip plans were absurd. However, in influence three fellow Stehekinites to write if they have held steady and continue to do other decisions the Park Service has treated responses to this environmental assess- so, the Park has already built one new staff the GMP as binding; such selective use of ment voicing similar concerns. Given that house, which already should compensate the GMP is capricious and casts doubt on the last time the Park issued an assessment for the possible removal of the Griffith whether the GMP can be regarded as on a similar project there were a grand cabin. having genuine force as policy. total of four responses, I suspect we were a Even if one presumes, though the I wonder at the EA’s failure to mention resounding majority of respondents. We’ll reader of the EA is given no evidence to Park Service plans to trade land across the see how this influences Park decisions. road from the horse corral to the holder of

4 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 Management changes necessary in Forest Plan Update

January 31, 2004 study recently completed by the Burned areas must be evaluated to define Wenatchee National Forest for the 15,000- what actions, if any are appropriate after a Jim Boynton, Forest Supervisor acre wilderness study area on the south fire. Wildlife Urban Interface (WUI) areas side of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. This are a high priority for treatment in order to Wenatchee-Okanogan National Forest study has set the standard for complete- protect private property. 215 Melody Lane ness, care, and lack of anti-Wilderness bias. The most modern fire management Wenatchee, WA 98801-5933 Areas recommended for Wilderness must plans that have been completed since the be managed the same as designated Land and Resource Management Plan Subject: Colville, Okanogan, Wenatchee Wilderness until Congress acts. Please (LRMP) was last revised must now be Forest Plan Update, Pre-Scoping ensure that all timberlands within Wilder- incorporated into this plan update. Comments ness recommendations are removed from It is not expected that the Forest the current timber base. Service will use fire risk reduction mandates The Forest Service should consider Dear Forest Supervisor, to enter roadless areas or expand the recommending lands for addition to North existing road system. North Cascades Conservation Council Cascades National Park, such as the submits these pre-scoping comments on Golden Horn area adjacent to the park in Off-Road Vehicles the upcoming Forest Plan revision for the the Okanogan National Forest. (Summer and Winter) Colville, Okanogan and Wenatchee In the Congressional Report accompa- Off-road vehicles (ORVs) are creating National Forests. We believe that manage- nying the 1968 Act designating the North tremendous impacts to wildlife, watershed ment changes are required and we want to Cascades National Park and the Ross Lake health, and other types of recreation in participate in the Forest Plan Update and Lake Chelan National Recreation ways not imagined when the original Forest process. The Forest Service needs to Areas, Congress specifically directed the Plans were prepared in the 1980s. Snow- address the many significant changes that National Park Service and the U.S. Forest mobiles are now far more powerful and have taken place since the Forest Plans Service to cooperatively and able to penetrate deeply into wild were first published in 1988, including a collaboratively manage the natural backcountry areas, disturbing wildlife and significant increase in off-road vehicle resources on the contiguous North creating other unforeseen impacts. Dirt (ORV) use and damage, a continuing loss of Cascades National Park Complex and bike access to many hiking trails has been roadless areas and excessive loss of wildlife Okanogan, Wenatchee, and Mt. Baker- facilitated with the use of state gas tax habitat from an oversized road system. The Snoqualmie National Forest lands. money. Some of this money has been used new Forest Plan needs to recommend to ‘harden’ trails for wheeled vehicles. In substantial additions to the existing Fire addition, an explosion of ATVs (four- Wilderness System. The Forest Plan update must reflect wheeled “all-terrain” vehicles) is starting to Roadless Area Conservation the long-term objective that fire manage- cause major damage to fragile backcountry ment treat fire as an integral part of the vegetation, soils, and trails. This vast The current Forest Service inventory landscape. As a natural process, fire expansion of ORV use has been allowed to of roadless lands contains numerous errors should be allowed to occur when and proceed without any detailed studies and inaccuracies. Too many acres were where feasible. assessing environmental damage. Too many never captured in the initial inventories and areas have been opened up with user-built subsequent updates. Therefore, the Forest The plan update should reflect the trails, and then “grandfathered” into formal Service must complete a thorough, detailed benefits of prescribed burning so that the designation later review and re-inventory of all roadless kinds of extensive, costly, and ecologically areas, both inventoried and non-invento- damaging fire suppression efforts can be The Forest Service should carefully ried, before any credible Wilderness reduced. Prescribed burning has already consider these environmentally sensitive recommendations can be completed. proven to be a valuable tool in order to points: return fire to the landscape and thus — Re-examine off-road vehicle use Wilderness reduce the need for intensive fire fighting. across all three national forests. We strongly support Forest Service The updated plan should address the — Close all areas of the forest to study of roadless lands to determine their effects of fire suppression and burnout motorized use unless specifically designated suitability for Wilderness. We expect the areas; cooperation between adjacent open. landowners both in Washington state and Forest Service to recommend to Congress — Prohibit all off-trail, cross-country Canada; public education so that let-burn the maximum amount of roadless land for motorized use. designation as Wilderness. The Forest policies are better understood outside the Forest Service; needed research to — Conduct formal studies of the Service has an obligation to the American impacts of motorized use (both summer People to ensure our wildlands heritage is support the analysis of fire recovery in the different fire regimes. and winter) that include the damaging passed on to future generations. The Forest potential of the latest motorized equipment. Service must complete thorough, detailed Adaptive management techniques reviews of all roadless areas, similar to the should be applied to dry forest restoration. Continued on page 20

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 5 Crumbling Roads Taken Out October 2003 RICK MCGUIRE AND KEVIN GERAGHTY

In late October 2003, nature stepped Although the Forest Service must play a spot on the map. One of these roads, over up to the plate and took a swing at the role in this process, much of the funding Rat Trap Pass, stands out as one of the most three-thousand mile network of roads can come from external grants, and much idiotic products of the roadbuilding frenzy blighting the west side of the North of the actual decommissioning can also be in the 60s. It should never have been built, Cascades. The fourth “hundred-year” orchestrated by external groups with and is crying out to be closed. flood in the last quarter-century ruined strong interests in aquatic conservation. large bridges, caused rivers to migrate into The Forest Service just has to let it happen. WHITECHUCK ROAD road paths, and left behind scores of NCCC is taking a great interest in the The Whitechuck valley, as its name culvert failures, debris flows, and scoured possibilities which have now presented implies, is the recipient of regular debris roads. themselves. On the Mount Baker- and lahar flows off Glacier Peak. One such Most of these roads were built on the Snoqualmie National Forest (MB-SNF,) flow, part of the October 2003 events, cheap during the heyday of federally some of the areas in question include, buried Kennedy Hot Springs along with subsidized National Forest logging in the moving north to south: erasing the Whitechuck road in a number years 1950 - 1990. Most of them have not of places. Keeping a road open in such a been properly maintained for years, and as BACON CREEK place is a precarious proposition in the best Forest Service budgets continue to This tributary of the Skagit between of times - Glacier Peak and the Whitechuck diminish, many are being closed through Marblemount and Newhalem has an are works in progress, and will keep wiping neglect. extensive road system which goes no- out this road no matter how many times it To a casual observer, an old road where, and intrudes into the national park is rebuilt. The Whitechuck was the object revegetating with alder seems to be lands which surround it. The creek is a of possibly the first conservation battle in benignly reverting to nature. Deep culverts surprisingly important producer of fish. the Cascades. In 1927, railroad logging fills and unstable perched earth on these The road has washed out near the bottom pushing up the Sauk valley reached the roads are better thought of as ticking time of the valley, and there is now an opportu- mouth of the Whitechuck. The Everett bombs, slowly failing and setting the stage nity to decommission the entire system. Mountaineers, led by a photographer for for destructive collapses and landslides. the Everett Herald named Stuart Hertz, These collapses can dump many of tons of SUIATTLE RIVER ROAD mounted a campaign to protect the valley and keep the loggers out. They were debris into salmon streams. A couple of washouts have cut this unsuccessful, though, the lower reaches of NCCC and other conservation and road which offers access to the Glacier the Whitechuck were railroad logged, and fisheries groups have been pressuring the Peak Wilderness. Fixing the lower one after World War II the Forest Service Forest Service for years to do more about would mean bulldozing a stretch of pushed a road far up it, part of its efforts these problem roads. If culverts are dug magnificent “young old growth” a 120- to against the creation of a National Park and out and unstable fill areas removed, the 150-year-old forest of splendidly tall Wilderness area. threats they pose can be greatly lessened. Douglas firs growing on a rich, productive Such “decommissioning” is very hard to site. Further upstream, the bridge over NCCC is still considering its position carry out if the road is already undriveable. Downey Creek is gone. NCCC is recom- on whether to reopen this road. Clearly, Some road segments have been dealt with, mending that the Suiattle River trailhead any fix will be only temporary, waiting for but only a small fraction of what is needed. two miles beyond be moved back Downey the next move by the river and Glacier The Forest Service has been hampered by Creek, rather than expensively replacing Peak. The road does access a popular trail, lack of money, which is both good and bad, the Downey Creek road bridge, endanger- but the trail could be lengthened and good because it has kept many destructive ing an important Chinook spawning restored along its original course if the projects from going ahead, but bad stream. road were shortened or eliminated, making because it keeps them from doing some for a belated victory for the vision of a wild good things. A particularly vexing problem SUIATTLE VALLEY SOUTH SIDE Whitechuck first promoted by the Everett has been the continuing mindset of many Mountaineers nearly 80 years ago. The road bridge across the Suiattle Forest Service managers that roads are which leads to Rat Trap Pass and the good, and should be kept open wherever extensive network of crumbling logging EAST-SIDE SAUK RIVER ROAD possible. One unfortunate example of this roads on the south side of the Suiattle This is the “old” Mountain Loop road, was the misuse of money specially appro- valley is now a bridge to nowhere, the running south along the east side of the priated by Congress for watershed Suiattle River having moved away and left it Sauk valley from the Darrington area down restoration in the mid-1990’s. In the high and dry. The Suiattle is critical salmon to and across the Whitechuck. In the mid Skykomish district, this money was used habitat, and perhaps nowhere else on the 1980’s the Forest Service put in a paved mostly to keep roads open rather than to MB-SNF is there such a chance to solve so highway along the west side of the Sauk, decommission them, even roads to many problems at one swoop. Tribal but the old road was left in place. Much of nowhere such as the San Juan Hill road groups focused on fisheries protection this road is in the floodplain, and NCCC is near Jack Pass. dislike many of these roads. NCCC would urging its closure, there being no need for Thanks to the flood, there may now be like to see this spaghetti bowl erased from roads closely paralleling the Wild and a transient opportunity to effectively the map, and the re-creation of that mostly Scenic Sauk on both sides. The bridge over pressure on the Forest Service to decom- lovely of cartographic features, a big blank the Whitechuck at its mouth on this road mission many of these mostly useless roads. has been damaged irreparably for automo-

6 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 tive use, although it could be converted salmon. There are numerous other places into a pedestrian access for the Whitechuck The Mountain Loop road has been where roads have failed in ways big and Bench trail. considered by some as an important small. Virtually the entire network of recreational asset, connecting Granite Falls logging roads throughout the Cascades SOUTH FORK SAUK ROAD, and the South Fork Stillaguamish with the should be looked at as a very temporary “MOUNTAIN LOOP”: Sauk valley and Darrington. If this section phenomenon, having been built as a result were not replaced, though, it would still be of taxpayer-subsidized liquidation of old- The Mountain Loop road along the possible to drive to all major trailheads, growth forests. The Forest Service will South Fork Sauk between Bedal and Monte though not from Granite Falls to never be able to maintain more than a Cristo lake has been quite spectacularly Darrington. NCCC is considering its fraction of these roads over the long term. erased for at least 600 feet. This road has position on this road, weighing the benefits If they are allowed to crumble away, the been washed away numerous times, the of recreational driving versus the impacts impacts on streams and rivers will be latest event being the most dramatic. There on salmon habitat. An important factor in severe and long lasting. But the October is no way to replace a road in this inher- shaping NCCC’s position will be the total 2003 floods have provided an opportunity ently failure prone area without extensive Forest Service response to all these to step back, look at the big picture, and riprapping of the South Fork Sauk, a washouts, whether or not the response to decide just which roads we can really designated Wild and Scenic River, which the all of them together is a plus or a minus for afford to keep in place. NCCC will be road ran right alongside. Such massive the health of the North Cascades. closely involved every step of the way. constuction would have huge impacts on From ROSS DAM to the ENVIRONMENTAL LEARNING CENTER TOM BRUCKER

Canada inundated. The NCCC’s resistance Department of Fish and Wildlife. bought time, sufficient time, so that a new The NCCC representatives were wary, Seattle Mayor, Charlie Royer and Deputy given the past practices of SCL, that the city Mayor Bob Royer, and a new Premier in would want to consider mitigating any of British Columbia, Dave Barrett, concluded the significant environmental impacts of an agreement, followed by a treaty, that dams. Our group anticipated the usual kept the lake level where it was. As is also mitigation proposals—landscaping, picnic fairly well known the treaty created the tables, power house colors and overlook Skagit Environmental Endowment Commis- structures—instead of restoration of lost sion (SEEC) that today administers a trust Ross Lake — KEN WILCOX habitat and mitigation of the continuing fund of some eight million dollars, and negative impacts of dams. But the unantici- How odd and unpredictable the spends about $300,000 annually to insure pated occurred: the city’s engineering future, the unexpected turn of events. the environmental protection of the Skagit division, that had been the driving force Who would have thought that the fight Valley above Ross Dam. behind the raising of Ross Dam before the of the North Cascades Conservation But that is only part of the High Ross Federal Energy Regulatory Commission Council to prevent Seattle City Light (SCL) story; the rest is not so well known, and (FERC), was now replaced by the Environ- from raising the height of Ross Dam on the that is where the efforts of the NCCC mental Affairs Division, which was staffed Skagit by some 125 feet would result in the resulted in the Learning Center. by serious professionals, who were creation of a multimillion-dollar Environ- Operators of dams must secure an sensitive to broader issues. Superinten- mental Learning Center? This Center is and operating license that is effective for a dents Joe Recchi and Randy Hardy, and will be of significant long-term benefit to definite number of years, after which a new Environmental Affairs Division heads, the environmental health of the North license must be obtained. This relicensing including Kathy Fletcher, all recognized that Cascades. The Center will be operated by procedure is a full-blown federal adminis- times had changed, and that City Light the North Cascades Institute, which in trative proceeding. By the end of the Ross needed good relations with all parties. The 2003 reached more than 10,000 people, a Dam fight, SCL had to go through a city strongly wished to avoid the divisive formidable performance. Saul Weisberg, relicensing for its Skagit dams complex, conflicts of the High Ross fight, and the Institute’s Executive Director states, which proceeding began in 1988. The approached the relicensing with the hope “Without the participation and support of NCCC, primarily through its long time of developing a consensus-building the NCCC, the Environmental Learning President and Chairman, Pat Goldsworthy, process. A seed of cooperation had been Center would not exist as we know it.” and board members Dave Fluharty, a planted. Longtime members and supporters of marine affairs professor at the University of A relicensing involves lots of different the NCCC well remember the 13-year Washington, and Joe and Margaret Miller, issues, one of which, as noted above, is (1969-83) struggle, to prevent the High originators of the Cascade Pass restoration mitigation of the impacts of the dam. Ross proposal. Without that effort the dam project, continued to be on hand to insure Recreation issues are part of the mitigation would have been raised, Big Beaver Valley that environmental issues were protected. process. As part of the recreation group, and Ruby Creek, flooded, and several Other interveners included Indian tribes, Goldsworthy, Fluharty and the Millers thousand acres of the lower Skagit Valley in the Department of Ecology, and the Continued on page 8

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 7 From ROSS DAM to the ENVIRONMENTAL LEARNING CENTER

Continued from page 7 the educational component succeed. The Today the Learning Center is in the result was the creation of an Environmental final stages of completion. The city has believed that education was a component, Learning Center, to be built on land owned funded the design and construction costs and put that on the table. The geographic by the Park Service, designed, constructed, of this facility, which has multi-media reality of the Skagit area is that much of it is paid for and owned by Seattle City Light, classrooms, research library, and outdoor difficult to visit, and the idea was that and administered and run by NCI. In April learning shelters; lakeside dining hall and public education about the area could be a 1991, a Memorandum of Agreement amphitheater; overnight accommodations non-structural component and thus Concerning the North Cascades Environ- for 46 participants, 12 staff and graduate relevant to the relicensing mental Learning Center was signed, which students, as well as access to a network of It was an inspired idea. The educa- detailed the responsibilities of all parties, park trails that lead deep into the surround- tional idea was embraced by all – Seattle including the NCCC. This Memorandum ing wilderness. Over the 30-year license City Light, National Park Service, Forest states, in part: period Seattle City Light will contribute Service—as an opportunity and all wanted An environmental learning center is almost $9,000,000 to the construction, to be a part of it. To help with the educa- the centerpiece of the City’s proposed maintenance and program support and tional component, the NCCC turned to the recreation plan. The NPS and the North endowment for the Environmental North Cascades Institute (NCI), and Saul Cascades Conservation Council (NCCC) Learning Center. Weisberg. Founded in 1986, the Institute strongly desire such a facility. The City NCCC members and supporters can focuses on natural and cultural history, and agrees that an environmental learning indeed be proud of this result, so unantici- has as its mission “to conserve and restore center can provide vital support to a pated, stemming directly from the decision, Northwest environments through educa- management philosophy for the North now some 35 years ago, to take on Seattle tion.” Teaching all ages, we encourage Cascades as an ecosystem. The City also City Light and its High Ross proposal. hands-on discovery and stewardship of the accepts this action as appropriate to North Cascades. . . .” NCI had been increasing the depth and breadth of public working with the Park Service to obtain appreciation for the North Cascades classrooms and laboratories in any new ecosystem. visitor center constructed by NPS. The seed The Park Service provided the land on of education grew and prospered. Negotia- Diablo Lake, previously occupied by a The Pacific Crest tions among all parties to the relicensing fishing and boating resort, and strongly took place, with all working hard to make endorsed the project. Trail WILD and WILDER In recent years about 300 hikers annually have set out from Mexico in spring and reached Canada by fall. However, the Deluge of ’03 took 39 miles of the Pacific Crest National Scenic Freeway out of play until perhaps 2009 or so. Until then it is predicted that each year approximately 10 detouring end-to-enders will end not in Canada but the Napeequa River, which the Forest Service hasn’t tried to bridge since the nation’s “guns and butter” strategy failed during the Southeast Asia peacekeep- ing. The Freeway repairs (replacing seven bridges and “huge amounts of trail” in and around the Glacier Peak Wilderness) will cost millions of dollars, all in hard federal money that must be appropriated by Congress, since the damage lies beyond the work-party range of the hardhats who volunteer their services in exchange for free parking. The Fish and Wildlife Service N3C Board field trip to NCI construction site, June 2003. is figuring how many vultures will have to Bottom row: Ken Wilcox, Saul Weisberg be brought in to pick hikers’ bones as clean Top Row: Karl Forsgaard, Laura Bedford, Tom Brucker, Charlie Ehlert, Nick as those of the sheep whose skulls gleam along the trail crossing Little Giant Pass, Forsgaard, Marc Bardsley, Anders Forsgaard, Laura Zalesky, John Edwards, Phil which has not been maintained since the Zalesky, Dave Fluharty. — KARL FORSGAARD PHOTO. Basque shepherds went back to Spain for the Civil War.

8 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 A GREAT and FAMOUS VICTORY for HIKERS Hobnobbing at Stehekin with Lloyd That motorcycles were ruling Olympia allocation. Bell, who had retired there after years as was flagrantly and conclusively demon- In the spring of 2003, in the state aide to Ol’ King Cole, that merry gypo from strated in 1972. A measure was adopted to Superior Court of Kittitas County, the Forks, I asked who in Bert’s office (State set aside 1 per cent of the gasoline fuel Northwest Motorcycle Association and Land Commissioner, head of the Depart- excise tax (collected at the gas stations) to Washington State Motorsport Dealers ment of Natural Resources) was on the fund a Nonhighway and Off-road Vehicle Association filed suit against the state motorcycle payroll. Lloyd took the Activities (NOVA) program. Fair enough. Interagency Commission for Outdoor question in good humor, as he always had Not so the implementation. The motorcy- Recreation, declaring a fair allocation was my on-going campaign to have his boss clists called NOVA funds “our money” and unconstitutional. They wanted 100 per drawn and quartered, “Darned if I know. through the cupidity of manipulators and cent of NOVA money to go to the ORV, 0 Bert hated the machines, himself.” witlessness of the manipulated, so it has per cent to motorless motion. Actually, I never thought Bert was been. Intervening in the lawsuit were the technically corrupt, though he sure sailed Hikers clearly saw the math was Issaquah Alps Trails Club, Kittitas Audubon close to the wind and thoroughly deserved phony. The term “nonhighway” designates Society, The Mountaineers, North Cas- defenestration by Brian Boyle. But his roads that are not under state jurisdiction cades Conservation Council, Sierra Club, DNR made no bones about publishing — including the roads on national forests, and Washington Trails Association. motorcycle guides to state lands and the ones we drive to trailheads. Gas taxes January 28, 2004, the judge ruled shamelessly sponsored razzer hullabaloos paid by us for “nonhighway” driving should against the motorcycles. The Court said from Idaho to the ocean. be “refunded” by NOVA just as are those NOVA spending on hiking trails is a I trusted Lloyd’s word and shifted my paid by motorcyclists for their travel on constitutionally permissible refund of gas suspicions to the legislature. I’ve known a trails. Moreover, state studies have taxes to the people who paid those taxes. established that only 20 per cent of NOVA number of excellent legislators, dedicated In March 2004 Governor Gary Locke public servants. Yet influential insiders revenue is from motorized trail users. “Their money” indeed! signed the trail users’ consensus legislation seem always to be available for a price, if to make NOVA fairer. the occasional convictions are any A quarter-century of simmering indication. discontent finally blew the lid off the pot and the legislature moved toward a fair — H.M. NCCC Wins a Couple Rounds in the Thinning Wars RICK MCGUIRE

There’s been a bit of good news of late Although there were concerns with all parts sale. The full meaning of this is unclear at in the struggle to save the naturally of the sale, concern was greatest over the this point, but it does mean that these regenerated, low-elevation second-growth roadless Salmon Creek units. An agreement forests have been spared for at least the forests of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie was reached with the Forest Service to time being. NCCC will monitor the situation National Forest from “improvement” withdraw those parts of the sale in ex- closely, and is ready to respond should the through logging. NCCC and other change for conservation groups dropping sale be re-introduced. conservation groups teamed up to appeal their appeal of the sale, thus giving up the Previous articles in The Wild Cas- two destructive timber sales, the “Sky right to litigate against it. cades have detailed the importance of low- Forks” sale in the Skykomish ranger district Although failing to address other elevation, naturally regenerated second- and the “Forgotten Thin Plus” in the concerns with the sale, the removal of the growth forests of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie Darrington ranger district. With the worst parts of it is still a big improvement, National Forest. These forests grow on assistance of environmental attorney Susan and should be considered as a win. some of the most productive sites on the Jane Brown, an experienced timber sale Further north, the Forgotten Thin entire national forest system. Most litigator, a major reduction was obtained Plus sale on the Darrington district surviving old-growth forests are on poor with the Sky Forks sale and the Forgotten proposed to cut ten-million board-feet of and/or high-elevation sites, thus making it Thin Plus sale has been withdrawn, at least timber from naturally regenerated post-fire critical to protect these natural second- temporarily. and post-railroad logging forests along the growth forests with their high species The Sky Forks sale, which had been Sauk River southeast of Darrington. diversity. If left alone they will become old- in the works since 1996, proposed to log Another meeting was held with Forest growth forests in little more than the span roughly 6-million board-feet from three Service staff to discuss conservation of a human lifetime from now. In recent different areas around the Skykomish concerns, but no agreement was reached years it has become fashionable in some district. Of greatest concern was the which satisfied both parties. parts of the Forest Service to try “improv- ing” these forests, “accelerating the Salmon Creek component, where logging NCCC and the other groups were development of old-growth characteristics,” was planned for de facto roadless areas, considering whether to file a court through logging and roadbuilding. NCCC and along aptly named Salmon Creek, an challenge of this sale when word came views this as absurd and plans to continue important spawning stream. A meeting was down that the Forest Service decided to doing what it can to protect the forests of held with Forest Service staff to discuss withdraw the decision to proceed with the conservationist concerns with the sale. the Cascades, both young and old.

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 9 Varieties of Wilderness Experience

A trail by definition is not wilderness thousand miles in the Issaquah Alps. Alone. At Least Several Days even though it be a corridor of civilization (The politicking came later.) (and Nights) barely a foot wide. Alone, too, were the several thousand How many angels can dance on the Mountaineering: The Freedom of the miles described in the four volumes of head of a pin? Hills, first edition, April 1960, Chapter 4, Footsore, my extension of politicking to the How tiny a space can contain “Wilderness Travel,” page 57 entirety of our “wildness within.” wilderness? Close my eyes and I’m there, As for the “wildness without,” I immersed in river, birds, wind. Lands continued in company of family and PART ONE: WHERE IS THE faraway and years long ago can flood the friends. But increasingly without them. braincase, sustain the beat of the heart THERE? Grandmother Hawthorn gave me for when it knows no other reason. The top of the line has no trails; no Christmas, her last, a book of Bible stories. Yet it is when that braincase is in a sea Before and after learning to read I was sights or sounds of other people; no of flowers that fills the nose and a lone extraneous noise or commotion; and fascinated by the brilliantly colorful picture raindrop from a purely blue sky scores a extends over at least several days (and of John the Baptist striding shaggily “into direct hit on an eyelid, that is the home the wilderness where he could be alone nights). where the buffalo and the angels roam. with God.” A time came in my life when I No Trail stopped telling people where I was going. A fellow I know whose back would feel no pain carrying a ton of stones neverthe- A fellow I know climbed many a High My whereabouts were a secret between less insists, “Come night and I want to be at Sierra peak that was not named on any God and me and if it turned out there was home tucked in my little beddy-by.” map nor described in any guidebook. He no God, so much the better for the took care to leave no trace so that subse- aloneness. To wake from uneasy sleep in a city and hie thy ass to forest and stream, quent climbers could share the virginity — No Extraneous Noise or until one of them “firsted” for a journal. meadow and sky, wait out the sunset on a Relocated in Seattle, he set out to investi- Commotion summit, and dash by flashlight and freeway gate its mountains. By choice, his only In the 1950s we were mystified in the back to the city and easy sleep, that’s the guide was a map picked up at a gas station. Pickets by a plane circling above. Later we difference between Mercer Island and Intrigued by a feature of the scenery, he learned it was the USGS taking photos for Manhattan Island. parked and walked toward it until halted by what was to be the Challenger quad. Yet day is less than half the wilderness. a river too big, a thicket too much. In the 1970s we’d not have known Night binds days into a whole greater than For his tastes, that was as good as what to make of the speck flying high in the sum of its parts. “there” gets. Still, he did occasionally silence (trailed by the roar of jet engines) The mess hall at Camp Parsons had on hanker for broader perspectives. The had not one of our group taken the SAS the wall Kipling’s command: Climbing Course lessened the purity of his over the Pole to Europe. wilderness experience but got him up In the 1990s, asleep in the Alpine Lakes Something hidden. Go and find it, where he could look around. Trails are Wilderness, I was repeatedly jolted awake Go and look behind the Ranges. good at that. by low-flying jets hurtling between Seattle and the efficiently centralized national Something lost behind the Ranges. No Sights or Sounds of sorting center. (For a parcel to get from Lost and waiting for you. Go! Other People Ballard to Bellevue it first must take an My wilderness epiphany came in 1938 8000-mile sidetrip.) I went and at Marmot Pass heard with in a Boy Scout multitude. Less than a Helicopters, four-wheelers, motor- Wordsworth: decade past boyhood I was a mobmaster in cycles, snowmobiles. . . the Climbing Course. Two decades later I . . . And “single-trackers.” Two wheels Low breathings coming after me, was a Pied Piper leading masses of pedestri- plus body make about the same noise and and sounds ans into the Issaquah Alps. occupy little more space than two boots Of undistinguishable motion . . . plus body. They do, that is, any particular The epiphany, though, was on a With what utterance did the loud moment. Over time, though, the 10mph twilight walk, alone, to Marmot Pass. dry wind Because of it, upon returning home from wheels impact five times more space than Camp Parsons I spent many an hour, many the 2mph boots. However attenuated by Blow through my ear! The sky a day exploring the anomalously virgin distance, the presence shatters the mood seemed not a sky forest that extended from our house to the throughout. Seething continues after the Of earth — and with what motion Whulge. Always alone. wheels are far away as the walker steels moved the clouds! Three decades later, in the half-year himself at every bend in the “single track” before and after summertime clambers in for another shattering. In 1938, the Poopout Drag, Camp Cascades and Olympics, I walked a round Trail-runners: “To your left!” That’s Mystery, Marmot Pass, Home Lake, and where to aim your quarterstaff, Friar Tuck.

10 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 Sunnybrook. The next summer, Honey- Those of us who have suffered such struck. Shock and awe. The fog of war. moon Meadows, Anderson Glacier, and disasters as having our tarp ripped to Approximately half the nation doesn’t Flypaper Pass, then Dosemeadows, Hayden ribbons at White Rock Lakes appreciate the know what a think tank does (conspires) Pass, and Deception Basin. The third desire to be always at night tucked in and can’t read White Papers. Close eyes summer, from Lillian Glacier along Lost home’s little beddy-by. Sorry to report, the and ears and follow the leader — that’s the Ridge in the Three-Day Blow to Lost Pass. tolerance sometimes is not a two-way Patriot Act thing to do. Three-summer total, a dozen and a half street. There are edgists who clamor that We would hope for something better days, the binding nights, and getting on no matter how holy and enchanted a deep from our environmental brethren. We are toward 200 miles. may be, if a hiker can’t get home for supper disappointed. Granted, the Fee Demo plot The deeps. That’s where the there is it must be shallowed. had a surface plausibility, what with the at. The Cascade Pass controversy caused Republican Congress systematically my abandonment of a half-century starving to death the nation’s social membership in The Mountaineers. For 40 infrastructure (“the better to privatize, PART TWO: THE EDGES years the club had persevered in the goal of m’dear”). But most of us soon saw In 1960 The Mountaineers published shortening the Stehekin River road. Two or through the fog. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the three edgists whined and moisted at a I outlined the White Papers plot in the Hills, done in the Climbing Course meeting of the board of trustees. Flip-flop frontmatter of a 100 Hikes volume that was tradition by unpaid volunteers. The went the club and out I went. up for revision. It was shock and awe for receipts from sales that would have gone in The issue that turfed me out of me when the volume appeared in print royalties to the doers went instead into a Mountaineers Books was the road up the with an impassioned plea for Fee Demo by Literary Fund to further the club purposes Middle Fork Snoqualmie River. I argued in a the book’s photographer. In the third of a enunciated in 1906. book manuscript that it be gated shut at the century of our 100 Hikes business Also in 1960 Dave Brower published Taylor River. The publisher (behind my association, he had prudently stuck to his This Is the American Earth, first of the back) permitted the photographer to edit last, leaving the writing and the thinking to Exhibit Format series that propelled the my manuscript (behind my back) to “save” me. Now, duped into a terminal passion, he Sierra Club into a national force. The two lakes for the edges he loved. became the duper of The Mountaineers, Literary Fund Committee pondered ways to Not too long ago the environmental and other organizations as well, causing or complement Sierra Club efforts at our community was taking a hard look at the aggravating the on-going civil war among regional level. roads up the Icicle and Cle Elum. Not any traditional environmental allies. Thus, in 1966, the inception of 100 more. If word got to the edgists, Minute The final book of our association Hikes. Men would leap from the bushes brandish- carried — at his behest and without my ing flintlocks. concurrence — an essay by some M.D. or Defending the Edges other connected somehow to the event The edges of wilderness, the shallows, Dupers Leading the Duped where President Bush stood on the White take the least travel time from urban James Watt, Secretary of the Interior House steps and urged Americans to get homes, require the least equipment and for President Reagan, has been our favorite healthy, take a walk. experience, and thus are most accessible to poster child since he proposed to issue A confab of federal and state officials those with limited money and leisure. They leases for the drilling toward (possible) hot and the American Recreation Coalition are, as well, the most fertile grounds for magma underlying the Alpine Lakes (read, Walt Disney Inc.) was titled “Opening recruiting new defenders of wildness. Wilderness. Environmentalist Republicans Doors Wider of America’s Public Lands — Further, by reducing or eliminating (it then was possible to be such — Dave Our Natural Health and Fitness Centers.” I overnight camping, they lessen human Brower claimed to be one, keeping a understood my former photographer’s impact and leave more room (the nights) completely straight face) apologized, enthusiasm when I read that among the for the freedom of the wildlife. “Ronnie got bad advice and made a boo- group’s recommendations was the Trails are not wilderness. They invite boo, but he’ll fix it.” He didn’t, though, expansion of “the capability to successfully boots. Civitas. But boots in sufficient until Watt laughed in public at what he use volunteers on public lands and numbers can defend wilderness at its considered the comical stumblings of a encourage additional volunteerism through vulnerable exterior and buffer the interior handicapped person. the Take Pride in America initiative.” from chainsaws and wheels. President Bush’s Secretary of the Some of us, the Issaquah Alps Trails The Literary Fund Committee adopted Interior is Watt’s hand-raised protégé. The Club the example I know best, were the proposal by Tom Miller, based by him continuity. The tip of the iceberg. But building and maintaining trails, unpaid and on a German-English model. (Credit for beneath the surface of the poster is the full of pride, before the privatizers/ the idea subsequently has been claimed by menace to our ship of state. commercializers were born again. others. Memories grow creative when There is nothing secret about it. Since Is it true what they say, that the sky is there’s a buck in it.) We canvassed the Reagan’s time the Washington City think falling? Clap your hardhat on your head, club’s wildland veterans for favorite trips. tanks have been issuing streams of White hoist your pulaski, and sing “Hi ho, hi ho, The list we adopted for 100 Hikes heavily Papers perfecting and elaborating the it’s off to work the trails we go.” stressed the edges. campaign scheduled to commence on Der Tag. At the sound of the trumpet announc- Edging into the Deeps The Dark Side of Edgism ing the Supreme Court’s appointment of Yosemite Valley is largely privatized Deepists celebrate the shallows as well. the runner-up, the Republican panzers Continued on page 16

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 11 FEE DEMO

Once More unto the Fee Demo, Friends!

February 6, 2004 Secretary of Interior Norton (natural daughter of former Secretary Watt) sought to amend S. 1107 to make recreation fees PERMANENT and to make failure to pay the fees punishable by 6 months in jail plus $5,000 fine! (Why not internment at Guantanamo?) February 11 The Senate Energy and Resources committee advanced S. 1107 by limiting permanent authorization of fees to the national parks, where they long have been charged anyway, and allowing the fees to LAPSE December 31, 2005 on national — JOHN JONIK forest (and etc.) lands. Alastair Coyne of Keep the Sespe Wild PAY TO PLAY hailed it as “an accomplishment of incredible proportions.” Scott Silver of (AND PAY, AND PAY . . .) Wild Wilderness said, “We went toe to toe with some powerful players and this time In an attempt to make the program “more palatable,” the Forest Service is the people won.” contemplating offering free parking at 400 or more trailheads, getting more from February 17 picnic areas, boat launches, and other sites easier to police and capture scofflaws. An editorial in Idaho’s Twin Falls Time In Mount Baker–Snoqualmie National Forest, 152 trailheads presently are pay- News says “the program which charges parking and 19 free; no change there is expected. The next step probably will be citizens for merely visiting their national to give concessionaires more loot plus gun permits. forests is ripe for termination. Watching Idaho Senator Larry Craig join forces with Also in the stew pot is a “Universal Pass” for access to national parks, national environmental groups is like watching forests — and state parks! Haley’s comet. Few observers live long A bill is in Congress to make Fee Demo permanent for NPS, USFS, BLM, enough to see it twice.” USFWS, and Bureau of Reclamation. Failure to pay the fees would be punishable February 18 by 6 months in jail plus a $5000 fine! An editorial in the Idaho Mountain Express, headlined “FIE ON FOREST FEES,” says it “ . . . was a bad program when it began, is still a bad program, and needs to “Recreational development is a job not of building be scrapped.” The editor imagining a jail conversa- roads into lovely country, but of building receptivity tion: into the still unlovely human mind.” “Whatcha in for?” “Hiking without a license.” —Aldo Leopold “Man, talk about getting tough on crime! Did they confiscate your boots as evidence?”

12 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 FEE DEMO

We won at the A National Park Service committee level in the Senate, but we PREDICTION have far to go But say it isn’t so! Fee Demo’s SCOTT SILVER

Current Status There was a time when the National Park Service was perhaps the best-run land The Senate Energy Resources Commit- management agency in the USA. That is no ***** I PREDICT ****** longer true. Today politics rule supreme tee unanimously endorsed Senators Craig- Budgets will be starved while Thomas’ National Parks ONLY fee-demo bill within the Department of Interior and the money is instead put into market- – S 1107. Under normal circumstances, integrity of those at the helm must be any bill that the full committee passes challenged. Today it appears to me that ing and promotion of the parks. unanimously would be approved by the full when the leadership of the NPS is not Three months from now (give or Senate without debate and without a roll- misdirecting the media and the American call vote. public, they are speaking out of both sides take), the Bush Administration will of their mouths. Unfortunately, the Bush Administra- announce that the National Parks tion is adamant that fee-demo be perma- are in decline and must seek nently authorized and they are lobbying Recently the NPS made headlines in a creative new funding solutions. hard to have fee authority for other story that it was quietly and secretly cutting agencies AMENDED to the Craig-Thomas visitor services and reducing park hours Gale Norton and Fran Mainella Bill. Whether they succeed is anybody’s due to a lack in appropriated funding. The will announce a new public-private guess. Meanwhile the action turns to the National Park Service and their private partnership initiative. Legislation to partners in the tourism industry are House of Representatives where Ralph facilitate new private, commercial, Regula’s horrible bill, HR 3283, still looms. attempting to stem the decline in park development and private participa- The next step for our team will be to visitation through efforts to aggressively get a bill comparable to Craig-Thomas’ S lure additional paying customers back into tion within park management will 1107 introduced and passed in the House. the parks. be introduced. It will be a foregone The next step for Gale Norton et. al., will conclusion that the Recreation Fee likely be to ram through language that is Clearly something is afoot within the Demonstration Program must be much like that contained in Regula’s bill. It’s agency and that being the case, I’m about permanently authorized and unlikely that they could do this in stand- to make a prediction. Perhaps someone expanded. The President’s legisla- alone legislation and so I’d expect to see would be so kind as to bury this prediction such language added to a larger bill — in a time capsule and unearth it 6 months tion will attempt to accomplish that perhaps added at the last moment. or a year from today. Or better yet, objective as part of their larger As of today the Western delegation of perhaps people will chose to appropriately privatization package. senators (and to a lesser degree congress- act upon it. (By acting today, perhaps we men) has no great desire to pass perma- can alter the future.) nent fee authority. Unfortunately, there are a few officials in both the House and the Senate who are likely to push for perma- nent fees. Tragically, in the Senate, the Minority Leader, Jeff Bingaman (D-NM) is most likely to cause our side problems — he, and Tennessee’s Republican Senator Lamar Alexander. In the House, it’s still too early to say how things will play out. — SCOTT SILVER March 9, 2004

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 13 Tourists Heli-ski Frolics the Mendenhall As five cruise ships reach port in downtown Juneau, sightseers spill onto the in the Federal Forests docks, smitten by the wild allure of the Inside Passage . . . Many have their eyes set on the Mendenhall Glacier. To reach it, Primal Quest Adventure Race Washington. We note with some more than 89,000 adventurers a year will bemusement that the race is to include a Announced enlist helicopter guides this year . . . $199 river-rafting component, yet it will be held for a 55-minute ride, to buzz over Tongass The 2004 Primal Quest Adventure in September, generally the low point of National Forest and land on the Race, scheduled for September 19-28, the annual hydrological cycle, when there Mendenhall. 2004 on the Mt. Baker, Darrington, and are frequently no wild rivers high enough “Every day we get clients so blown Skykomish Ranger Districts promises to be to run. What rocky, riffly section of the away by what they’ve seen they literally the mother lode of photo ops for the press Sauk or Skykomish will the participants jump up and down with joy, “ says the vice- and TV. be forced to drag their rafts over? No president of tourism marketing for Contestants (125 4-person teams, doubt arduous and frustrating for the TEMSCO, Alaska’s largest heli-ski operator. each with 1-4 assistants in 1-2 vehicles), participants, but not exactly compelling 140 managerial staff, Forest Service TV viewing. The inclusion of a ropes Consumer demand from cruise ships, monitors and post-race course inspectors, course in the event also leaves us scratch- which this summer brought 770,000 12 checkpoints each with 1-2 volunteers ing our heads. What does this have to do passengers into Juneau alone, more than equipped with a vehicle and a tent and with the landscape of the Mount Baker- the entire population of Alaska, has garbage bin and honey bucket, 47 medical Snoqualmie? Why should National Forest transformed the heli-ski industry. “Without personnel and ambulances, Search and lands be used for an event which, presum- helicopters, tourists would have no way to Rescue volunteers, county sheriff staff, and ably, requires the setup and erection of see some of Alaska’s major wilderness 2 helicopters for evacuation, battery structures? A county fairground would attractions.” replacement, SAR, and filming, and an seem a more appropriate venue. The audience of race-watchers should, in total, logistics would certainly be easier. — CHRISTIAN SCIENCE MONITOR create quite a spectacle on the 400-mile Perhaps a borrow pit or old log landing, race course of which 120 miles are on devoid of any vegetation to be trampled, National Forest roads and trails, the rest on would be an acceptable site. Mountain state, county, and private land. (Not taken We are also concerned about the off- into consideration in this roster are the trail segments of any such event. We Sheep on press coverage, and the TV helicopters.) wonder if the organizers have any experience with west-side Cascades brush. We are concerned about concentrated Chelan Butte March 4, 2004 human use, flagging, and informal route The Wildlife Department recently Larry Donovan creation in such places. We are wholly established on Chelan Butte a colony of Project Coordinator unwilling to acquiesce to this event mountain sheep from Cleman Mountain, Mt Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest without first seeing a detailed map of the another step in restoring the species to th 21905 64 Ave W proposed route. habitat from which it was expelled by the Mountlake Terrace, WA 98043 Given that this event is best described diseases and appetites of ranchers’ Sirs: as a commercially motivated entertain- enormous bands of woolies. A half-century This letter constitutes NCCC’s com- ment, rather than public use and enjoy- ago an NCCC member played a starring ments on the proposed special event ment of National Forest lands, we would role in the program’s infancy. The Game permit for a “Primal Quest Adventure also object to traditional public uses such Department it was then, the preserving of Race” to be held during September of this as hiking or recreational forest driving wildlife incidental to its basic charge of year. being inconvenienced or hindered in any providing targets. A pioneer plantation of way. This event should occupy the sheep had so thrived that harvest could We perceive this proposed event to be absolute lowest spot on the priority totem begin. A lottery was held to select from a synthetic made-for-TV “sportainment” pole. thousands of applicants two lucky winners. whose primary purpose is to amuse the A pair of splendid semi-tame trophies were television-viewing public for commercial It doesn’t sound terrible, just dumb, (not quite literally but in fact) staked out. ends. It is not a citizens’ race; nor is it an pointless, and inappropriate, with some The inaugural slaughter was attended by a elite race in some recognized sporting troubling side effects. Show us the maps, throng of press and dignitaries. But the discipline; rather, it is a team mish-mosh show us the details, and we might go master of ceremonies recoiled in horror designed with jaded viewers in mind. The along with it if our criticisms are ad- upon noting that one of the winners, Ellis structure of the event suggests that the dressed. Ogilvie, had no equipment but a camera. organizers know little and care less about Kevin Geraghty “Where, sir, is your rifle?” “Oh,” answered the natural environment of western North Cascades Conservation Council Board Member Ellis, “I don’t want to kill my sheep.”

14 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 A Second Chance for Salmon Court Orders Bush Administration to Rewrite Columbia-Snake River Salmon Plan

SAVE OUR WILD SALMON COALITION WINTER 2004

No Northwesterner can deny the valuable role salmon play in our economy, YOU CAN HELP culture, heritage, and ecology. And with Send a message to the Bush the once mighty Columbia and Snake administration: Rivers, our region has been blessed with the world’s most prolific salmon producing 1. Salmon are important to the culture rivers and one of our nation’s most and economy of the Northwest. important natural resources. Unfortu- 2. Please restore wild salmon to abundant, nately, today our notable salmon are at a self-sustaining, harvestable populations. crossroads and the decisions we make now 3. Please include the removal of the 4 could decide both the fate of this imperiled lower Snake River dams as a mandatory species and the long-term endurance of recovery action in your new Federal our economy. Salmon Plan” The “Federal Salmon Plan,” the current 4. Please include my letter in the comment plan of actions to recover the waning period for the revision of the Federal populations of Columbia and Snake River Salmon Plan. salmon is little more than expensive and ineffectual. Accordingly, in May 2003, U.S. District Court Judge James Redden ruled It is extremely important that you add the plan illegal and ordered the Bush your name, and the names of other salmon Administration to revise and improve it by advocates to the public record in support June 2004. He referenced a previous favorable ocean conditions subside. of effective salmon recovery in the Columbia-Snake Rivers. SOS is working to judge’s conclusion that the federal In the last several years, numerous gather more than 100,000 comments to recovery effort suffers from “serious flaws” studies and hundreds of scientists have submit to the Bush Administration. Please that “need to be addressed and remedied concluded that removing the four dams on be sure that your name is part of the in the immediate future.” lower Snake River must be included in any record! Visit our website: With the recent temporary rise in effective salmon recovery plan. Even the www.wildsalmon.org, or send your some salmon species due to momentarily invalidated Federal Salmon Plan acknowl- comments care of Save Our Wild Salmon at improved ocean conditions, one might edges, “Breaching the four lower Snake 2031 SE Belmont St., Portland, OR 97214. expect federal agencies to use the positive River dams would provide more certainty THANK YOU IN ADVANCE! situation to benefit their work towards of long-term survival than would other long-term salmon restoration. Instead, the measures.” Removing those dams, coupled ——————————— Bush administration seems intent on with smart investments in our regional Please send your letter to: wasting more taxpayer dollars on costly, energy and transportation infrastructures, President Bush futile measures like trucking and barging offers a win-win solution to recover our c/o Save Our Wild Salmon salmon around the dams. In another salmon, strengthen our economy and 424 Third Ave West, 100 administrative failure, dams on the Snake communities, honor treaties with regional River broke temperature pollution tribes and Canada, and uphold our Seattle WA 98119 standards for sixty-seven consecutive days, Nation’s laws. —————————— greatly exceeding what is typically consid- During the first half of 2004, Pacific You can also visit ered lethal conditions for salmon. More- Northwest citizens have a window of www.wildsalmon.org over, in December 2003, the Bonneville opportunity to ensure safety for salmon. A to submit your comments via email Power Administration, an arm of the Bush free-flowing Snake River will restore salmon administration, announced its intent to to self-sustaining, harvestable populations eliminate what is known as “summer spill,” and bring economic recovery to long- For more information or to get an action widely regarded as the safest suffering fishing communities. All should involved, please contact: means of helping young salmon travel past demand a legal, scientifically credible, cost- Joseph Bogaard (SOS)—206.286.4455, federal dams and avoid deadly turbines. effective salmon plan that includes x13 [email protected]. The Bush administration is charting a removing the four lower Snake River dams. http://www.wildsalmon.org course toward another severe decline in salmon populations once the current

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 15 Varieties of Wilderness Experience Continued from page 11 Comments on Forest Service (profitized) and fears exist that the park beach to smoke a toque. Stehekin Valley is at similar risk. The edges Camp Two was atop a massive block of Outfitter-Guide must be defended and, where necessary, concrete barged in against the base of a rescued. How secure are the deeps? glacial-till cliff, intended as the site of a In 1938 I sucked a prune pit from boathouse to be connected to a view EA lunch while lugging my Trapper Nelson up window atop the cliff by staircase or the Poopout Drag of the Big Quilcene, elevator. That was long ago and forgotten, 16 February, 2004 refusing to surrender it to the big guys. In defeated by the formidable cliff. The shore my pocket were nickels and dimes for ice bent around the corners of the bluff north District Ranger Glenn Hoffman cream and root beer at the candy store the and south, putting civitas out of sight and Leavenworth Ranger District big guys said was awaiting us at Marmot sound and mind. In the night’s high tide 22976 Hwy 207 Pass. Come night at Camp Mystery and I the water rose nearly to the top of the Leavenworth crawled in my primitive bag and shivered to block. No police or murderers could WA 98826 dawn under the roof of cold stars. That disturb me without getting wet to the neck. night was the other half of the epiphany. Across the black waters was the dark Dear Sir, Ice cream and root beer are now for shore of an island, uplands sparsely First, I would like to compliment those sale in the deeps, and pancakes and fried speckled by pinpricks of electricity. The who put together this detailed Outfitter- eggs and little pigs, and ham sandwiches on Whulge was as empty and silent as it was Guide document examining “the public bread hot from the Dutch oven, and steaks before the arrival of the windships from demand and need for outfitter and guide and salads and apple pie, the same delights Europe. Scarcely louder than my breathing activity on the Districts, and also . . . the as on the groaning table at the home ranch. was the lap-lap-lap of the wavelets. effects of the Outfitter and Guide program No stone on the back, only the camera and The sky . . . Above was that gigantic on District resources”. Good job—it can’t the book of verses for reading underneath glow the astronauts reported from space, the glow I have seen from summits in the have been easy. But because of the many the bough. Civitas is transported into the Olympics and the North Cascades and complexities involved in National Forest Deep by horses, mules, burros, llamas, from Columbia Crest — the wildness outfitting, especially in wilderness areas, it goats, and dogs. The outfitter’s commodi- without. would have been helpful to have more than ous tents exclude the Three-Day Blows, the Why had I come here? To hitch the the several weeks after mailing to go over stars, the night. Whulge to the Issaquah Alps, which are the Environmental Assessment adequately, The Summer 2003 Highland News, hitched to the wildness without and, said contact those interested in the issues who journal of the Kettle Range Conservation John Muir, “to everything else.” At the 200- may not have been aware of the EA, and meter hut I’d hoisted the Kelty, walked Group, notes, “Unlike private wilderness come up with a well-informed response. down Cougar Mountain to the Metro stop, outfitters who guide people into wild places Did you hold any informational hearings? to make a living, KRCG leads nearly 300 rode three buses (one at a time) to Tacoma, and set out on my illegal four-day expedi- If so, they slipped by me, and by others I people a year into northeastern tion. know in this area who would have been Washington’s wild places to inspire them.” The final morning I was cut off from interested in attending them. This issue Customers of the outfitters also are my beach route by jutting condos. certainly deserves public attention – more, inspired. But not for nickels and dimes. Fortuitously, I spotted a friend taking a I suspect, than it will be receiving. I’m not morning soak in his backyard hot tub. His sure how it best could have been done, but PART THREE: THE WILDNESS wife brought out their baby to say good it would have helped to have the wilderness WITHIN morning to daddy, served me a cup of hot parts of the plan more clearly separated My bag was concealed behind a coffee (alacazam), and led me through the from the rest. house to the public street. The first driftwood log well-removed from the American to climb Everest congratulated The wilderness areas involved are the kempt shore of the state park, as secure as me on being likely the first person to Icicle, Chiwaukum, and Ingalls Creek could be from urban murderers and police, backpack the beach from Tacoma to drainages in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, the sleep peaceful. Until a monstrous Seattle. the east side of the Jackson Wilderness, and silhouette reared up against the stars. — H.M. the east side of the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Surely doomed, in a futile last gasp I The basic unit of measurement is the howled, “PEOPLE ARE TRYING TO SLEEP “client-service day” (CSD) – one day or part HERE!” thereof that one client is provided service The silhouette vanished. From the far by a guide. Stock-supplied drop-camp side of the log rose a groan. Then an CSD’s are based on pack-in and pack-out apparent head. In a quaver it whimpered, time, not on number of days the party stays “Man, you lak to skeer me half to death.” in camp. Drop camps reduce stock damage There proving to be no People to finish around camping areas, but double the him off, he friendly-like extended an stock on-trail time required for the party – invitation (politely declined) to join him and impact on others using the trail. and his pals at the illicit campfire on the Continued on page 17

16 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 Comments on Forest Service Outfitter-Guide EA

Continued from page 16 lated to roughly match existing levels when Before reading the EA I was unaware The EA offers four alternatives: A, B, C “unique services” are included. I note that that stock use off-trail is permitted. I think it and D. The “proposed alternative” is D, even under B there is a combined increase, is important that non-outfitted stock as well which would entail a very large increase not a decrease, for day-riding. I would think as outfitted be prohibited from leaving the over current outfitted use in wilderness that day-riding is most appropriately formal trail system. Private stock very likely areas. conducted outside wilderness, or at least do more terrain damage per animal than on wilderness trails (such as some of those the more experienced trail horses of A involves allowing all existing permits off Ingalls creek) that get very little hiking outfitters. I know there has been illegal to expire – there would be no outfitters on use. trail-cutting activity off the White River trail the districts. For those whose chief interest is in the by hunters bringing stock into higher B “was formulated to minimize the effects on wilderness, the scale of proposed basins, and I’m certain it has happened potential conflicts between users, minimize increases in outfitted use in wilderness elsewhere. resource impacts, and reduce the permit under C and D is not immediately obvious. I note that maximum wilderness party administration workload on the districts, Alternative C is presented as allowing size is 12 people and/or livestock combined while still providing some minimum level of “commercial outfitter and guide activity to in all WROS zones. I would say that this is public need for outfitting services”. continue on the district at a level that way too large for the Pristine/Trailless, and Wenatchee National Forest claims there approximates the existing program, but that livestock should not be permitted at all would be a future reduction from current does not add much additional commercial off-trail. Allowing stock practically guaran- outfitted use levels as existing outfitters go recreational use.” What is “much”? When tees that trails will develop in off-trail out of business or relinquish their existing the “unique services” are added in (and it is locations. permits. not clear to me why they should not be), Your party size limits appear to be C “was formulated to fully provide for the backpacking allocations for wilderness unduly elastic. We have the following: In the public need for outfitting services on trails go from current 980 CSD’s to 1407, a the Pristine “A total of not more than 6 the districts, while also reducing the near 50 per cent increase. Stock day-trips people will be encouraged”. “The majority conflicts between users and minimizing almost double, from 150 to 287. In this of outfitted trips in W shall comply with this resource impacts.” small amount of wilderness acreage during party size limit of 12…” “Approval for stock D “was formulated to fully provide for a brief summer season, I would call those parties over 12 may be given…” “Party sizes the public need for outfitting service . . . very large increases. over 16, in W, will rarely be approved.” and to allow for some additional commer- “Unique services” are defined in such a “Off-trail hiking trips will rarely exceed a cial recreation use to satisfy the additional broad and varied way that almost any group size of 6 except for pre-existing use demand for services.” commercial guiding program could be that strongly emphasizes Leave No Trace In my opinion, increasing outfitter easily made to fit the definition. They skill development”. It’s not clear what you allocations for wilderness, as would happen should be considered part of the basic mean by that. Perhaps simply that NOLS under both C (see below) and D, artificially allocations, not a potential add-on. can run oversize parties? “Outfitters will and unnecessarily increases use. Many Giving commercial operators a greater make a reasonable attempt to reduce areas are already out of compliance with stake in the overall wilderness picture can group size and the amount of gear being some standards in the Forest Plan, and even effectively reduce management flexibility in packed before requesting party sizes over if outfitters are kept away, expanded some areas. Opening forest trails to stock 12”. Managing for primitive and uncon- outfitter trips elsewhere would tend to or replacing bridges, for instance, can be fined recreation requires that you avoid displace non-outfitted parties into greater far more difficult and expensive in some undue rigidity, but party size limits are use of those areas. Growth is generally the years than others, and leaving things ride essential and should be easy to abide by if sign of a healthy business. In wilderness, for a year or two can be in the best outfitters let clients know in advance what though, there has to be a limit. In my wilderness tradition. However, there could the rules are. It is, after all, almost always opinion we are already at that point in develop strong pressure to concentrate preferable that party size be much lower these districts. Is there a danger that maintenance efforts where business than the maximum allowed. These are individual outfitters could not operate operations are most affected (promises to outside limits, not recommended stan- viably at current levels? I doubt it. Basing scheduled clients, etc.), though you might dards. There’s not much wilderness outfitting levels on “need” or “demand”, otherwise tend to use them elsewhere. solitude available in a party of 6, let alone and separating the two, will always be Commercial stock operators are a large twice that. tricky. Once levels are set it will very and valuable part of the wilderness scene In assessing the “need” for backpack- difficult to reduce them in the future, no on these districts. I would also say: large ing services, we should first acknowledge matter how much non-outfitted use enough. the wealth of information that has accumu- increases. I doubt that you are anxious to Two areas of confusion: If stock lated and been made widely available over go through this process again soon. handlers are not required to camp at the last 20 years. We have now many more For these reasons and those that designated stock camps, as they are not in mountain guides anxious to sell their follow, I strongly recommend that you most areas open to them (e.g. Boulder services, at the same time as it has become adopt some variant of B, that there be very Basin), what restrictions on camping increasingly easy to learn things on one’s little or no increase in the outfitter locations are there, if any? Does the table own. Nothing about the wilderness terrain presence in wilderness. on E-9 imply that more than one outfitted in these districts is a closely guarded secret Some miscellaneous remarks: party may visit the South Fork Napeequa at except to those unwilling to spend a few hours in a library or bookstore, or on a trip Alternate B could have been formu- the same time? Continued on page 20

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 17 Public Supports Grizzly Bear Recovery in the North Cascades

JIM DAVIS to the North Cascades grizzly bear recovery CONSERVATION PARTNERSHIP CENTER area. However, a fall 2003 telephone survey CHRIS MORGAN of rural residents from Skagit and INSIGHT WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT Whatcom Counties has revealed substantial support for grizzly bear recovery in the NAN LANEY North Cascades. A majority of respondents GRIZZLY BEAR OUTREACH PROJECT (52 per cent per cent) reported strong support for recovery and 24 per cent Grizzly bears are often portrayed by reported moderate support for recovery. the media as voracious predators. How- Very few (11 per cent) said that they ever, grizzly bears are generally shy strongly oppose grizzly bear recovery and creatures that avoid human encounters, if only 5 per cent said that they moderately at all possible. Negative encounters with oppose recovery. Support for grizzly bear grizzly bears are rare, and typically recovery was about the same in Skagit and associated with defensive reactions in — JOHN HECHTEL Whatcom Counties. response to being startled or feeling The findings for Whatcom and Skagit threatened by human actions around cubs the recovery area is designated wilderness, Counties reinforce the results of an earlier or food caches. Interior grizzly bears, such 90 per cent is federally owned, and 68 per survey conducted in 1996 (Washington as those found in Washington’s North cent has no motorized access. The North Residents’ Opinion on Grizzly Bear Cascades, are omnivores with a typical diet Cascades recovery area is bounded on the Recovery in the North Cascades Moun- of less than 10 per cent fish or meat. More north by the Canadian border, approxi- tains, Responsive Management, 130 than 100 plants in the North Cascades mately the western boundary of the Mount Franklin Street, Harrisonburg, VA 22801). have been identified as part of the grizzly Baker/Snoqualmie National Forest, the I-90 That survey found 41 per cent strong bear’s diet. Much of the meat in the grizzly corridor, and approximately the eastern support and 36 per cent per cent moderate bear’s diet is carrion from winter killed border of the Wenatchee/Okanogan support for grizzly bear recovery from a deer and elk. Grizzly bears in coastal areas National Forest and the Loomis State statewide sample. Among respondents are an exception: for these bears, fish Forest. living within the recovery area west of the (salmon) comprise a larger proportion of Grizzly bears are often portrayed by North Cascades, 42 per cent strongly their diet. the media as voracious predators. How- supported recovery and 31 per cent Today, grizzly bears are present in less ever, grizzly bears are generally shy moderately supported recovery. Among than 2 per cent of their former range in the creatures that avoid human encounters, if respondents living within the recovery area lower 48 states, with fewer than 1,100 at all possible. Negative encounters with east of the North Cascades, 32 per cent bears remaining. The estimated resident grizzly bears are rare, and typically strongly supported recovery and 32 per population in Washington’s North Cas- associated with defensive reactions in cent moderately supported recovery. cades is 5 to 20 bears. There may be some response to being startled or feeling The more recent 2003 survey also interaction of Washington’s grizzly bears threatened by human actions around cubs examined attitudes toward several of the across the border with a small population or food caches. Interior grizzly bears, such specific alternatives that could be proposed of 5 to 20 grizzly bears in the British as those found in Washington’s North to further grizzly bear recovery. The survey Columbia North Cascades. Cascades, are omnivores with a typical diet revealed that 33 per cent of the respon- In 1975, the grizzly bear was listed as of less than 10 per cent fish or meat. More dents would be “more supportive” of “threatened” under the US Endangered than 100 plants in the North Cascades grizzly bear recovery in the North Cascades Species Act. In 1983, the Interagency have been identified as part of the grizzly if 5-10 bears had to be added. Another 43 Grizzly Bear Committee (IGBC) was bear’s diet. Much of the meat in the grizzly per cent expressed the same level of established with the goal of recovering the bear’s diet is carrion from winter killed support for recovery if grizzly bears had to grizzly bear population in the lower 48 deer and elk. Grizzly bears in coastal areas be added to the North Cascades. Only 15 states. The IGBC includes representatives are an exception: for these bears, fish per cent said they would be “less support- from the US Fish and Wildlife Service, (salmon) comprise a larger proportion of ive” if bears had to be added. National Park Service, USDA Forest Service, their diet. The survey also found that Skagit and US Geological Survey, state Fish and Resources are currently unavailable Whatcom County residents would be Wildlife Departments, and the British for the US Fish and Wildlife Service to “more supportive” of recovery if some land Columbia Ministry of Water, Air, and Land develop an Environmental Impact State- use restrictions were required, such as Protection. ment (EIS) evaluating specific alternatives closing some roads and trails at certain The IGBC identified six ecosystems for for recovering grizzly bears in the North times of the year. Majorities of respondents grizzly bear recovery, ranging from Cascades. One barrier to funding for an also reported that they would be “more Yellowstone to the North Cascades. The EIS is the widespread belief that large supportive” of grizzly bear recovery if a North Cascades recovery area is one of the segments of the Washington State popula- program was available to compensate largest in the US, encompassing nearly tion are opposed to grizzly bear recovery, ranchers for grizzly bear related livestock 10,000 square miles. More 40 per cent of especially rural populations in and adjacent losses.

18 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 Responses to attitudinal questions about grizzly bears were very informative. Majorities of respondents agreed with Bear Attitudes About Humans positive statements about grizzly bears and grizzly bear recovery. Nearly everyone (91 KEN WILCOX per cent) agreed with the statement, “Residents and visitors to the North I wish I could do a poll and ask those with two young grizzlies on the ridge above Cascades can prevent almost all problems burly big grizzlies, what few that are left in Thornton Lakes, our eyes locked almost long with grizzly bears by taking a few precau- the North Cascades, what they think about enough to have that conversation. Then we tions such as keeping a clean campsite and all the gangly humans skipping across their all relaxed; the big furballs ceded the berries avoiding areas with heavy bear activity.” blueberry fields and bottom swamps on the to us and trotted down the hillside and out of Results for the statement, “Grizzly bears very best days of the year. view. In that brief encounter, it felt as if we were here before humans and have an Are you 1) satisfied, 2) nearly satisfied, had been educated about bears in a way no inherent right to live in the North Cas- 3) moderately irritated, or 4) hopelessly oblivi- human could possibly emulate. I’m not sure cades,” revealed 55 per cent strongly ous to the region’s accelerating population what the bears said to us, but it sure was agreeing with the statement and 22 per of those same two-leggers — you know, the profound. cent moderately agreeing with the state- ones who reside in all those multi-colored Ursine platitudes aside, if all goes well, ment. For the statement, “Grizzly bears in square dens just beyond the ragged, familiar, it’s fathomable that Washington’s half a hand- the North Cascades Mountains should be mountainous horizon, out where the rivers ful of grizzlies might produce a cub or two in preserved for future generations,” 66 per lead to an inland sea that once belonged to some secret hollow in the wild North Cas- cent strongly agreed and an additional 20 the salmon and the orca, and where noisy cades in 2004. Most likely, no one will know per cent moderately agreed. crates on rubber wheels zoom around in if it happens. Majorities, and in some cases strong smelly hordes across a large flat place that Also in 2004, the number of humans majorities, of respondents disagreed with was scraped clean of bear habitat not that living within easy access of the North Cas- negative statements about grizzly bears. long ago? cades will likely increase by many thousands. For the statement, “There is no need for Maybe I could survey them, but I sup- Happily, the humans can rest now, having grizzly bears in the North Cascades pose I would have to learn the language first. secured for themselves what we may pre- Mountains,” a strong majority (79 per cent) Anticipating our first interview, I would have sume to be a viable population size. The bears, disagreed, and a majority (58 per cent) to ask, somewhat sheepishly, about that clas- on the other hand, have a real challenge on strongly disagreed. For the statement, sic Orwellian verse from Animal Farm: ‘Four their paws, with no room for complacency. “Grizzly bears from the North Cascades will legs good, two legs bad!” Say it isn’t true! In As the Grizzly Bear Outreach Project, or kill many livestock and pets,” 68 per cent 1982, when a friend and I stood face-to-face GBOP, (www.bearinfo.org) is making very disagreed and 38 per cent strongly clear these days, humans have a major role disagreed. For the statement, “Grizzly to play in the future of these amazing crea- bears are very dangerous to humans,” 56 Virginia. tures with whom we share the bogs and the per cent disagreed and 36 per cent agreed. The GBOP is a community education blueberries. Humans and grizzlies can not The survey also showed that the public project providing accurate information on only coexist quite nicely in our mountains, needs more information on grizzly bears. grizzly bears, the grizzly bear recovery we can probably help each other out consid- Few people knew that meat and fish process, and ways to make our homes and erably. comprise only 10 per cent of the grizzly communities bear safe. GBOP education Humans, naturally, are in a great posi- bear’s diet in the North Cascades. Very few activities in the North Cascades have been tion to aid in grizzly bear recovery. There is realize that full recovery of the grizzly bear funded by multiple partners including the much we can do, from augmenting the popu- population in the North Cascades will take US Fish and Wildlife Service, USDA Forest lation with another half a handful of bears around 100 years and that a fully recov- Service, National Park Service, Interagency (so few that most of us would still never see ered population will include only about Grizzly Bear Committee, Washington them), to speaking up on their behalf when 200-400 grizzly bears. Fortunately, nearly Department of Fish and Wildlife, Northwest the bureaucrats and politicians get to mess- everyone knew that it is legal to kill a grizzly Ecosystem Alliance, Defenders of Wildlife, ing around (or not) with studies, budgets, bear in self-defense or defense of other and Woodland Park Zoo. and plans. Those who represent us simply people. However, almost a third did not The GBOP was first implemented in need to be reminded regularly that bears know that it is illegal to kill a grizzly bear if it 2002 as a pilot in Okanogan County. The matter, that taking real action toward recov- were to attack livestock. GBOP was expanded to the west side of the ery matters. All participants in the survey lived east North Cascades in Skagit and Whatcom So make that occasional phone call, send of Highway 9 in the rural areas of eastern Counties, beginning in the fall of 2003. The that card or letter to your member of con- Skagit and Whatcom Counties. Adults were west side project includes an evaluation gress, attend a meeting, write a letter to the selected at random from the area to funded by the Skagit Wildlife Research editor, support GBOP’s work, in short, be a participate in the survey. Survey telephone Grant program managed by Seattle City voice for the bears and for civilized people. calls were conducted during September Light. The two-year evaluation consists of The grizzly may help us out in return by and October of 2003. A total of 508 adults baseline and follow-up telephone surveys, surviving, by recovering its population to a age eighteen and older completed the quarterly key informant interviews, and a healthy, viable size, and perhaps by someday survey. The results are accurate to within media content analysis. The survey results thriving once again, just as they did a century plus or minus 4 per cent. reported in this article are derived from the and a half ago. The grizzlies can help us by The telephone survey was sponsored baseline survey conducted in the fall of just being there. Their presence in the wild by the Grizzly Bear Outreach Project 2003. places we’ve all worked so hard to protect is (GBOP) and funded by the Skagit Wildlife For more information on the GBOP, an enormous gift, not just to us, but to the Research Grant Program managed by visit the website www.bearinfo.org. generations who will follow us. We will know, Seattle City Light. The survey was con- by their recovery, that we two-leggers are a ducted by Responsive Management, a civilized species after all. nationally recognized survey firm based in

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 19 Management Changes in Plan Update Necessary Continued from page 5 — Hardening trails for — Study and assemble an west Forest Plan amendment. motorized use does not work. inventory of all unauthorized, Protect old growth in the — Tolerate no ORV The Forest Service must study user-built and non-system Okanogan east of the Chewuch resource damage on any forest, in some detail the effectiveness trails. River and all of the Colville. . . even if such motorized use is of ‘trail hardening’ methodolo- We expect that no old growth deemed to be otherwise lawful. gies and disclose the results in Road System/Access as defined by proper scientific — No expansion of the forest plan update. The existing road system evaluations will be cut on a snowmobile, dirt bike or ATV — Close motorized areas was largely developed to scheduled or unscheduled use, including addition of any where Wilderness trespass is support a huge timber harvest basis. new groomed snowmobile documented, either on an program. The timber harvest trails, shall be considered Timber Harvest occasional or habitual basis. program is now much reduced without completing formal over the cutting levels experi- We do not expect NEPA studies. Such studies — Any area opened up to enced in the 1980’s. The scheduled or unscheduled must address soils, vegetation, motorized use as a result of this remaining road system timber harvest levels on any wildlife, watersheds, recreation forest plan update must be produces unacceptable one of the three forests to opportunities and other forest accompanied by an equivalent damage to soils, wildlife and increase for any reason above resources. reduction of motorized use current levels . . . Eliminate the elsewhere on the forest. fisheries. The forest plan revision must direct the closure timber management emphasis and elimination of unneeded standards and guidelines where Comments on Forest Service roads. . . Closures and the management areas (MA’s) decommissionings will benefit are inconsistent with ecosys- Outfitter-Guide EA wildlife and recreation. tem and restoration focus. A complete road system Trail System Continued from page 17 be a terrible mistake. Leave these two wonderful but very analysis is needed, including The trail system has to REI. Much of the more limited climbing areas to self- the rationale for each road that shrunk over time on most essential and helpful literature guided parties. Guides can is to remain open or be closed national forests because of is available in ranger stations. teach on Castle Rock and in or be decommissioned. timber harvest and road Hikers and backpackers can Icicle Canyon everything that We expect that the Forest construction. Too much of the equip themselves adequately their clients need to venture Service will maximize decom- remaining trail system has been and very cheaply, if they so out later and on their own to missioned road miles and allocated to motorized use. Do desire. For those living in the the north ridge of Stuart or budget for increased rates of major metropolitan areas Outer Space. Again, the “need” not allow ‘mudding’ anywhere surrounding these districts, for this type of guiding is really road decommissioning. on the forest. The plan update The Mountaineers offer non- just a need for a shortcut. If — Close or decommission must recognize that dirt bike commercial mountaineering you can follow as a rock- road segments with high and hiker use is generally instruction. In sum, the areas climbing client on one of these maintenance costs and/or incompatible on the same trail covered by this EA are very routes, you can also assemble environmental risks and/or a segment. The plan must direct readily accessible to any able- the wherewithal and devote the history of environmental that trail damage caused by bodied person who wants to practice time necessary to lead damage. motorized use be fully visit it. Most people have it. Unless, of course, one just inventoried. If a use eliminates become familiar with our wild happens to be in a hurry. I — Consider conversion of trail mileage, develop the lost erness areas gradually, viewing don’t think that in wilderness suitable closed and decommis- them first from outside the you should be catering to this sioned roads to trail use. trail mileage in an alternate but suitable location. The updated boundaries. They would hike type of impatience masquerad- — Develop an access plan must adopt the concept of up Dirtyface, Mt Si, to Lake ing as “need.” assessment criteria for both “no net loss of trail mileage.” Serene and similar locations roaded and unroaded lands before venturing farther afield. Sincerely, Do not allow motorized use on Yes, given the choice and the Phil Leatherman Other Issues trails that dead end on funds, many would probably Wilderness, non-motorized There are many other prefer to be competently For in-depth information management area land guided directly into spectacular on Outfitter-Guides see The issues that the Forest Service allocations, or other non- remote wilderness, without needs to address in this forest Wild Cascades, Spring 2003, motorized trails. having undergone a self- pages 6-7. plan update. directed apprenticeship. But e-mail: comments- Integration and Relation- does that preference constitute Old Growth ships with Other Plans a real need? I think not. pacificnorthwest-wenatchee- lakewenatchee-leavenworth- Eastern Washington old- The updated forest plans I am particularly bothered [email protected] growth forest ecosystems have must be compatible with other by the obscure note, which I Mailing address: District become rare and merit full currently existing plans, laws missed on first reading, that the protection. Protect all old Stuart Range and Snow Creek Ranger Glenn Hoffman, and agreements. Do not Leavenworth Ranger District, growth on the parts of the Wall would under C and D be reduce the protections for the Wenatchee and Okanogan that opened to increased commer- 22976 Hwy 207, Leavenworth, sustainability of all resources cial guiding. I think this would WA 98826 are addressed by the North- Continued on page 21

20 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 Bear Experts Urge BC to Mount Rainier Protect 68-84 Percent of National Park Expansion and the Occupied Grizzly Habitat to Carbon River Valley Avoid Grizzly Extinction Update A report by five independent bear biologists released today concludes that most of British Columbia’s occupied grizzly bear habitat must be protected to avoid a long term Keep your fingers crossed, a plan to slide into extinction. expand Mount Rainier National Park with To halt the decline of North America’s landmark species, the report concludes that 68- 800 acres of old-growth forest and prime 84 per cent of currently occupied grizzly habitat, roughly 360,000 km2 of BC, must be habitat for threatened and endangered fish protected from all damaging human development including industrial scale logging, mining and birds has gained another congres- and motorized vehicle activity. The authors also state that protected areas must be roadless, sional supporter. Senator Maria Cantwell and the majority must prohibit grizzly bear trophy hunting. has formally joined Representatives, Last month, the European Union suspended imports of grizzly hunting trophies from Jennifer Dunn (R-Bellevue) and Norm BC after a unanimous decision by the 15 member nations that the provincial government was not acting on commitments to protect grizzly populations. Dicks (D-Bremerton) with the filing of Senate legislation that would authorize the The BC government has proposed setting up three small coastal grizzly bear manage- ment areas; however, they are too small and would still allow for resource extraction. The addition to the 235,625-acre park. Dunn report clearly demonstrates that the number and size of government management areas is has long sponsored a House version of the inadequate, and will not do enough to maintain viable grizzly bear populations in the future. same plan. It passed the House Resources Dr. Barrie Gilbert, lead author of the report said today, “The science in this document Committee last fall, but never come up for points to the need for the BC government to end 10 years of broken promises and act a Senate vote. Now, with the support of immediately to protect adequate habitat for grizzlies.” Democrats Cantwell and Senator Patty The Raincoast Conservation Foundation’s website is: Murray, the proposal could gain ground. www.raincoast.org

Management Changes in Plan Update Necessary Continued from page 20 on National Forest lands. New scientific Wildlife and Fish cal character. Please consider the addition information was developed in the Inter- Grizzly bear and wolf recovery must of areas that have been affected by fire. agency Columbia Basin Ecosystem be recognized and dealt with through Thank you for the opportunity to Management Project for the Okanogan and provisions of the forest plan, including participate in this planning process. Colville that was not available when the dedicating and protecting critical habitat, original plans were written in the 1980s. as well as establishing strict limits on new Sincerely, We expect the Forest Service to apply these development in grizzly and wolf habitat. findings from ICBEMP to the updated These issues were not addressed in the forest plans. We expect the Forest Service initial forest plans. Roadless area protec- NORTH CASCADES CONSERVATION to retain the most protective features of the tion and road decommissioning will help COUNCIL ICBEMP study. Threatened and Endangered (T&E) species Karl Forsgaard, Board member Wild and Scenic Rivers recover. We strongly support the retention of Recreation (For complete text online see: www.northcascades.org) the current Wild and Scenic River recom- The Forest Service must update mendations. We expect the Forest Service carrying capacity estimates where new data to restudy rivers that were excluded in the has become available since 1990. Recre- initial round of forest plans to determine if ation use must be adjusted in order to additional recommendations are appropri- account for critical wildlife needs, including ate. Threatened and Endangered species. The Economics updated forest plan must include a quantitative analysis of negative recreation Because of changes in eastern Washing- impacts on wildlife. ton, there is no economic justification for a large timber sale program on these national Research Natural Areas (RNA) forests. We expect the updated plan to The system of Research Natural Areas reflect this economic shift. should be further expanded to protect areas of representative or unique ecologi-

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 21 The Wild Sky 55 Hikes Around Stevens Pass: Wild Sky Country. Rick McGuire (and Ira Spring). Mountaineers Books, 2003. 208 pages. $14.95.

The significance of the Sky Peaks and ice but extends to biologically rich low His trip descriptions are clean and Wilderness-to-be is far more than scenery: elevations. 3. It busts the logjam of jostling crisp, brisk and eloquent. His frontmatter 1. It connects three existing wildernesses, a proposals that has been piling up since essays, “The Wild Sky Country” (pages 22- step toward restoring a wildlife freeway 1984. 24) and “the Wild Sky Mountains” (pages from the Columbia River to Canada. (Doth Rick McGuire made his bones getting 57-77) are comprehensive-concise the grizzly thereby cometh? And thus a the Boulder River Wilderness in 1984 and treatments of geography, climate, forests, deeper wildness? Rumania has established presently is a general staffer of the Wild meadows, fish and wildlife, politics, and the preserves that have given it the largest Sky. He knows wilderness in general, and history of trails. Magnificent. brown bear population in Europe. A this one specifically, not as rush-in, rush-out A merciful veil is best drawn over the commentator has urged other nations to photo ops but as a whole community of evolution of this book before Rick agreed follow suit: “More of us would once again trees and devils club, birds and beetles and to participate. Ira expected me to be his find ourselves facing the scintillating bears, and such pedestrians as by right of partner as I had been for a third of a challenge of sharing our lives with things respect for the good of the order belong in century. However, he refused to heed my that eat us.”) 2. It is not confined to rock such company. criticisms. Unaware though I was of his physical condition, I realized his mind was not the one I had known so well so long. His project was a doomed ship steaming at CASCADES FOOTHILLS flank speed toward the rocks. So I jumped ship — or better say I walked the plank, INITIATIVE encouraged by the point of the Mountain- eers’ snickersnee. The time is not long past when the designated Tiger Mountain State Forest as a With or without a book, the Sky advance of Puget Sound City through the “working forest in an urban environment.” Wilderness was clearly on the way to Issaquah Alps, into the Snoqualmie River The then Dean of the University of victory. However, the impending ship- valley, and over the North Bend Plain Washington College of Forest Resources, wreck definitely was going to cast a pall inexorably pointed the Bottom Line voice of the troglodytes, cynically called it a over the festivities. Rick bit the bullet and Imperative toward Fuller Mountain and the first step toward Tiger Mountain State Park. rode to the rescue. The book he salvaged Mount Si scarp. The Real Estate Division of I am in a position to say without contradic- serves very well as a centerpiece for the the “Tree Growing Company” went so far tion that a state park absolutely was NOT celebration. We must hope and pray that a as to sneakily seek a rezoning to jump-start what we sought, contrary to the conven- Second Edition will eliminate the grievous the platters. tional wisdom of the editorial pages. Our faults of this First. They are not Rick’s fault. That may not happen, now, thanks to aim was twofold: (1) to give the north end The publisher, who in a letter informed me, Gene Duvernoy and his Cascade Foothills of Tiger, whose slopes and soils are not “You are breaking Ira’s heart,” thought to Initiative. The CEOs of King, Snohomish, economically practical for sustained-yield properly venerate him by a policy of — and Pierce Counties and the state Depart- logging, wilderness-like protection; (2) save “what Ira wants, Ira gets.” ment of Natural Resources have signed, on the rest of Tiger from housing tracts and The book cover is a nightmare, February 2, a letter of intent to “immunize” thus guarantee the logging industry room cluttered with inconsequentials that barely 600,000 acres from citification. Ron Sims, for perpetual sustained yield of the wood spare room for the book’s Big Message: King County Executive, speaks of “a and jobs the economy needs. WILD SKY COUNTRY.” The cover photo is permanent wall between sprawl and When the DNR staged its initial timber captioned, “Lake Serene and 5979-foot greenery, a wall that will not come down . .” sale under the new regime, the old bandits Mount Index.” But the lake was left on the One supportive factor is that called upon their ilk to boycott the auction cropping room floor and the pictured Weyerhaeuser is choking on its glut of and thereby force a return to the good ol’ summitry is not the Main (South) Peak but riches stolen from the public domain. By days of Ol’ Bert. To general amazement, the Middle and North Peaks. (Incredibly, taking the 600,000 acres off the real estate the DNR was deluged with bids from those the Eiger-like “Nordgipfel” that wakes up market, the value of the hoard retained for in the industry who looked not to the past climbers in screaming nightmares years exploitation by its Real Estate Division is but the future. The “working forest in an after their ascents is shown here as a ho- miraculously magnified. urban environment” was an instant and hum excrescence of ugly rock.) The way was pioneered on Tiger resounding success and forms a platform Rick was unable to do anything about Mountain. The proposal made by the for Gene’s “permanent wall” to eliminate that. But with Ira gone, he was allowed to Issaquah Alps Trails Club in 1979 for an forever the threat of “Fuller Mountain replace many mediocre shots with salon- “urban tree farm” was restated more Estates.” quality images supplied by Wild Sky elegantly by Brian Boyle when he des- — H.M. comrades. (To sample the riches awaiting patched Ol’ King Cole into outer space. He

22 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 Goose-Maverick Off-road vehicle trail project back on track

WENATCHEE WORLD motorcycles. the Entiat Valley late in the summer season. The other groups that plan to But there are no trails between Lake MICHELLE PARTRIDGE comment on the latest proposal include the Wenatchee and Entiat that are open to MARCH 25, 2004 Sierra Club, Mountaineers, Wilderness motorized vehicles earlier than mid-July. Society, Washington Trails Association, Many riders of non-street-legal LAKE WENATCHEE — Seven years after the Northwest Ecosystem Alliance and motorcycles have illegally used a Forest project was halted by environmentalists, Washington Wilderness Coalition, Service road between Goose Creek the U.S. Forest Service is again proposing to Forsgaard said. They will submit comments Campground and Maverick Saddle to reach build new off-road vehicle trails near Lake before the public comment period ends in the Mad River trails, according to the Wenatchee. early April, he said. analysis. The agency released on March 8 a new The project’s initial environmental The proposal is to build more than environmental analysis saying the Goose- study was completed in 1997 and work three miles of new trails and a new bridge Maverick ORV Tie Trail would have little or began on the trails. A U.S. District Court over Deep Creek, convert sections of roads no impact on wolf and grizzly bear habitat, judge later issued an injunction on the to trail, and obliterate roads that are old growth forests and northern spotted project after ruling that the Forest Service already closed to vehicles and about a mile owl habitat, mule deer, birds, and sensitive had not adequately addressed impacts to and a half of unofficial trail that was plants. wildlife. created by users. The proposal is being reviewed by The new trails would connect the Forest officials estimate that about seven state and national conservation Lower Chiwawa Trail east of Lake 1,700 motorcycles use the trail system each groups that challenged the project in 1997 Wenatchee with Maverick Saddle in the year, which would increase by about 10 in U.S. District Court, said Karl Forsgaard of Entiat Ranger District, allowing motor- percent with the new trails. the North Cascades Conservation Council, cycles, mountain bikes, horses and hikers Copies of the document are available one of the seven. Their earlier concerns to reach the Mad River trails. at the Lake Wenatchee Ranger District, included impacts to wildlife and fish, and Motorcycles can now use the 22976 Highway 207, Leavenworth, WA. increased noise and erosion caused by Chikamin Tie and Alder Ridge trails to reach 98826

55 Hikes Membership Application Continued from page 22 Be part of the North Cascades Conservation Council’s Advocacy of the North Cascades. Join the NCCC. Support the North Cascades Foundation. Help us help protect North Cascades the Second Edition, check out the website, wilderness from overuse and development. .) NCCC membership dues (one year): $10 low income/student; $20 regular; $25 family; $50 Con- tributing; $100 patron; $1,000 sustaining. A one-time life membership dues payment is $500. The Irrelevant to this book review but Wild Cascades, published three times a year, is included with NCCC membership. indicative of the problems within Moun- Please check the appropriate box(es): taineers Books is the publisher’s encomium on page 205: I want to join the NCCC The North Cascades Conservation Council (NCCC), formed in 1957, works through “A master hiker, photographer, and legislative, legal and public channels to protect the lands, waters, plants and wildlife of author, Ira Spring is considered the father the North Cascades ecosystem. Non-tax-deductible, it is supported by dues and dona- of Pacific Northwest hiking books.” tions. A 501(c)4 organization. His legs and his camera speak for I wish to support NCF themselves, but author he never was and The North Cascades Foundation (NCF) supports the NCCC’s non-political legal and never could be. The “fathering” was done educational efforts. Donations are tax-deductible as a 501(c)3 organization. by the Literary Fund Committee of the This is a NCCC Membership NCCC Renewal Membership Gift NCCC$ ______1960s. Hired by that committee to do a job This is a Donation to NCF NCF $ ______he did it adequately, saw the main chance, and made a brandnew and lucrative career Please cut, enclose Total $______for himself, serving diligently until nearly check and mail form Name ______the last months of his life. His “authorship” and check to: was made possible over the years by a NORTH Address ______series of well-wishers who valued him as a CASCADES CONSERVATION sweet guy and admired his pluck. Rick was COUNCIL City ______State ______Zip ______the last in a long line of literates who Membership Chair translated his field notes into publishable L. Zalesky 2433 Del Campo Dr. Phone ______English. Everett, WA 98208 — H.M.

THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004 ! 23 Wild Sky deserves our delegation’s support EVERETT HERALD EDITORIAL February 24, 2004

Bipartisan politics has apparently Larsen and Sen. Murray to a “wilder- Rey complimented our state’s delega- worked its way into the Wild Sky ness workshop” at the Monroe High tion for “its collaborative approach and Wilderness legislation. Dare we even School cafeteria. It has passed the local involvement that resulted in bother to ask once more for a bill that Senate twice but is stuck in the House bipartisan support of the bill.” has backing on both sides of the aisle Resources Committee. This legislation is the result of and the OK from a senior Bush It would help if the rest of our community input. If it passes, Wild Sky administration official to finally pass? state’s Republican delegation would will be the first new wilderness area in Retiring Rep. Jennifer Dunn has offer its support, but that’s where the this state in 20 years. It will set aside thrown her support behind the bill; partisan politics comes into play. It’s 106,000 acres of forest land in east she’s a co-sponsor of the legislation election year and Rep. George Snohomish County and part of King that is the work of Rep. Rick Larsen Nethercutt is running against Sen. County that will be protected while and Sen. Patty Murray. At different Murray in the upcoming Senate race. remaining available to the public for times the past two years the bill Nethercutt’s people say the race has many types of outdoor activities. looked so close to passing. Then nothing to do with the fact Nethercutt This is an important environmen- politics got in the way. hasn’t decided whether he supports tal bill for our state and one that has Great ideas with the support of the bill, and that he’s still studying the the backing and praise of Republicans politicians and the majority of citizens issue. And another Republican con- and Democrats. Plenty of information die quick deaths each year in this gressman from California is now has been made available. Members of Washington and the “other” Washing- referring to the bill’s wilderness our state’s delegation should have ton. But Wild Sky has been around for designation as an “extreme” measure. finished studying this issue a long time more than two years. It started in That’s a far cry from last June ago. September, 2001 as an invite by Rep. when Agriculture Undersecretary Mark

THE WILD CASCADES U.S. POSTAGE Journal of the North Cascades Conservation Council PAID Post Office Box 95980 SEATTLE, WA University Station Non-Profit Organization Seattle, Washington 98145-2980 PERMIT No. 8602

ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

. . . We need your help to recruit a few more people to read The Wild Cascades, provide funds, and help spread our message . . .

24 ! THE WILD CASCADES • Winter 2003-2004