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Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 Pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X)

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Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations. CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) TIDAL BORES, AEGIR, EAGRE, MASCARET, POROROCA: THEORY AND OBSERVATIONS by Hubert CHANSON Professor, School of Civil Engineering, School of Engineering, The University of Queensland, Brisbane QLD 4072, Australia Ph.: (61 7) 3365 3619, Fax: (61 7) 3365 4599, Email: [email protected] Url: http://www.uq.edu.au/~e2hchans/ December 2009 Tidal bores of the Garonne River (Top left), Dordogne River (Top right), Sélune River (Bottom left) and Sée River (Bottom right) in 2008 CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) Abstract A tidal bore is a series of waves propagating upstream as the tidal flow turns to rising. It forms during spring tide conditions when the tidal range exceeds 4 to 6 m and the flood tide is confined to a narrow funnelled estuary. The existence is based upon a fragile hydrodynamic balance between the tidal amplitude, the freshwater river flow conditions and the river channel bathymetry, and it is shown that this balance may be easily disturbed by changes in boundary conditions and freshwater inflow. This book demystifies the physics of a tidal bore and it documents thoroughly the tidal bores on our Planet with reliable and accurate informations. It aims to share a passion for a beautiful, but fragile geophysical process and it is supported by over 190 illustrations and photographs. Keywords: Tidal bores, Mascarets, Aegir, Pororoca, Observations, Theory, Turbulence, Mixing, Environmental impact. ii CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) DEDICACE To all the people who share my passion for tidal bores, in particular late Professor Howell Peregrine. To Ya Hui, pour Bernard, Nicole et André. iii CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Abstract Keywords Dédicace Table of contents List of Symbols Acknowledgments Préface 1. Introduction 1.1 Presentation 1.2 Related processes 1.3 Structure of the book 2. Basic theory 3. Observations 3.1 Presentation 3.2 Tidal bores in Europe 3.3 Tidal bores in Asia 3.4 Tidal bores in the Americas 3.5 Tidal bores in Australia 3.6 Tidal bores in Africa 4. The rumble noise of tidal bores 4.1 Presentation 4.2 Field observations 4.2 Physical processes 5. Turbulence and mixing in tidal bores 5.1 Turbulence in tidal bores 5.2 Mixing in tidal bores 6. Interactions between the tidal bore, environment and mankind iv CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) 6.2 Impact of tidal bores on the estuarine processes 6.3 Fragility of tidal bores 6.4 Surfing a tidal bore 7. Conclusion Appendix A - Incomplete list of tidal bore affected rivers and estuaries Appendix B - Undular wave theory Appendix C - Tales of a surfer Appendix D - Glossary and tidal bore vocabulary REFERENCES Bibliography Internet references Audiovisual references Index of Authors Index v CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) List of symbols The following symbols are used in this report: A flow cross-section area (m2) measured normal to the velocity; aw wave amplitude (m); B free-surface width (m); C celerity (m/s) of a small disturbance: C = g d ; DH hydraulic diameter (m) or equivalent pipe diameter: DH = 4A/Pw; d water depth (m) measured normal to the invert; dc critical flow depth (m); dmax first wave crest elevation (m) above the river bed; d1 water depth (m) before the tidal bore arrival; d2 water depth (m) immediately after the tidal bore passage; E specific energy (m); Fr Froude number defined as: Fr = (V U) / g d ; Fr1 bore Froude number defined as: Fr1 = (V1 U) / g d1 ; f frequency (Hz); g gravity acceleration (m/s2): g = 9.81 m/s2 in Europe; Hb breaker height (m); L bubble cloud length (m); Lw wave length (m); M momentum function (m2); P pressure (Pa); Pw wetter perimeter (m); q discharge per unit width (m); R bubble radius (m); Sf friction slope defined as the slope of the total head line; So bed slope: So = sin; T tidal period (s); t time (s); Note: all given times are local times, with daylight saving between the last week-end of March and the last week-end of October in Europe typically; U tidal bore celerity (m/s) for an observer standing on the bank, positive upstream; V velocity (m/s) positive downstream; Vs surfer speed (m/s); Vx longitudinal velocity component (m/s) positive downstream; Vy vertical velocity component (m/s) positive upwards; Vz horizontal transverse velocity component (m/s); V1 flow velocity (m/s) before the tidal bore arrival; V2 flow velocity (m/s) immediately after the tidal bore passage; vi CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) V depth-averaged velocity (m/s); x longitudinal co-ordinate (m); xs location (m) of the tidal bore front; void fraction: 0 1 with = 0 in pure water and = 1 in air; momentum correction coefficient, also called Boussinesq coefficient, defined as: 2 Vx dA A V 2 A polytropic index; angle between the river bed and the horizontal; water density (kg/m3); stream function (m2/s); Subscript o initial flow conditions; s tidal bore location; x longitudinal direction positive downstream; y vertical direction positive upwards; z horizontal transverse direction positive towards the right bank; 1 initial flow conditions, before the tidal bore arrival; 2 new flow conditions, immediately after the tidal bore passage; Abbreviations D/S downstream; U/S upstream. vii CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) Acknowledgements The author wants to thank especially Dr Eric JONES, Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory, and late Professor Howell PEREGRINE, for their enthusiastic support and helpful assistance all along. He thanks also Dr Pierre LUBIN, University of Bordeaux for his positive feedback and advice on the book material. He expresses his gratitude to the following people who provided photographs and illustrations of interest: Mr and Mrs J. CHANSON (France); Bernard, Nicole and André CHANSON (Australia); Dr Shenliang CHEN (China); Ya-Hui CHOU (Australia); Jean-Yves COCAIGN (France); Antony COLAS (France); Jean-Michel Cousteau Ocean Adventures (USA); Michel DEYRICH (France); Angela EGOLD; Lou EVANS; Nathanaelle EUDES (France); Francis FRUCHARD (France); Google Earth; Mark HUMPAGE (UK); Lim Hiok HWA and Department of Irrigation & Drainage, Sarawak (Malaysia); Dr Eric JONES (UK); Dr Pierre-Yves LAGREE (France); Loïck LE LOUARGANT (France); Dr Cheng LIU (China); Dr Pierre LUBIN (France); J.J. MALANDAIN (France); National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration NOAA / Department of Commerce; NASA Earth Observatory; late Professor D. Howell PEREGRINE (UK); Petitcodiac Riverkeeper (Canada); Sonya PREIN; Sequana-Normandie; G. Warren SWIRE & John Swire & Sons (UK); Walter TAPE (USA); Dr Bernadette TESSIER (France); viii CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) Carrie VONDERHAAR (USA); Dr Pierre WEILL (France); Sherman WILLIAMS (Canada); Dr Eric WOLANSKI (Australia); Dr YU Dajin (China); At last, but not the least, the author thanks all the people (incl. friends, relatives, colleagues, former students, students, professionals) who gave him information, feedback and comments on this material. In particular, he acknowledges : Professor Shin-ichi AOKI (Toyohashi, Japan); Robert BICKERS (UK); Dave BUTTERTON (UK); Mr and Mrs Jacques CHANSON (Paris, France); Bernard, Nicole and André CHANSON (Brisbane, Australia); Dr Shenliang CHEN (China); Ms Y.H. CHOU (Brisbane, Australia); Antony COLAS (France); Fabrice COLAS (Saint Pardon, France); Dr Jean CUNGE (France); Frédéric DANEY (France); Mrs Jacqueline DUPEYRAT (Saint Martial, France); Dr Richard W. FASS (USA); Dr David HUNTLEY (UK); Dr Eric JONES (UK); Mrs Nathalie LEMIERE (France); Karen HICKOX (Australia); Daniel LEBLANC (Canada); Dr Pierre LUBIN (Bordeaux, France); Mr J.J. MALANDAIN (Rouen, France); Roger MARCEL (France); Alain MARHIC (France); Jean-Paul PARISOT (France); late Professor Howell PEREGRINE (Bristol, UK); David PETERSON (Australia); Professor Roger RULIFSON (USA); Prof. Hubert SAVENIJE (The Netherlands); John Swire & Sons (UK); Dr Carl TAPE (USA); Dr Bernadette TESSIER (France); Don THIEDERMAN (USA); Dr Eric WOLANSKI (Australia); .... ix CHANSON, H. (2011). "Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: Theory and Observations." World Scientific, Singapore, 220 pages (ISBN: 978-981-4335-41-6 / 981-4335-41-X) Préface Tidal Bores, Aegir, Eagre, Mascaret, Pororoca: what's all about it? A tidal bore is a surge of waters propagating upstream as the tidal flow turns to rising and the flood tide rushes into a funnel shaped river mouth (Fig. aa). The bore forms during the spring tides when the tidal range exceeds 4 to 6 m and the rising tide waters are confined to the narrow funnelled estuary. It is estimated worldwide that over 400 estuaries are affected by a tidal bore, on all continents but Antarctica. A bore is a discontinuity of the water depth and it represents a hydrodynamic shock. The tidal bores have a significant impact on the environmental system and the ecology of the river mouth.
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