Celebrating the Food Culture of San Francisco's East Bay Region Since 2005 No. 61 Fall/Winter Holidays 2020
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® Fall/Winter Holidays 2020 1 Holidays Fall/Winter Member Communities of Edible Fall/Winter Holidays 2020 2020 Holidays Fall/Winter ² No. 61 No. EAST BAY edibleeastbay.com edibleeastbay.com Celebrating the food culture of San Francisco’s East Bay region since 2005 since region Bay East Francisco’s of San culture food the Celebrating edible edible East Bay Oysters ★ Bay Nuts ★ Pie Party ★ Permaculture in East Oakland ★ Zero-Waste Warriors Fall/Winter Holidays 2020 ★ No. 61 ★ Year 15 2 Fall/Winter Holidays 2020 edible EAST BAY Contents ★ = recipe 2 Editor’s Mixing Bowl 20 Coming Up Oysters ★ 4 East Bay Farmers’ Markets Steven Day’s Southern-Style Fried Chicken 5 Granny’s Secret Vanilla Oakland Yams ★ 26 Getting to Fair Share with Town and City Permaculture 7 What’s in Season? 34 Zero-Waste Warriors and Art Activists Do Battle with Plastics Holiday Spritzer ★ 42 Oma’s Einfache Ausstecher Gets a Much Better Butter Update ★ 8 Guide to Good Eats 44 Holiday Pie Party ★ 10 Traditional Mulled Wine Goes Herbal ★ Winter Squash Pie Chocolate Silk Pie ★ 13 Kristina’s Holiday Bookshelf Tarte Tatin ★ Egg Fried in a Spoon in the Fireplace ★ Jammy Tomato Anchovy Sauce ★ 48 Last Bite Bay Nut Truffles ★ 18 Prima Materia’s Lake County Wines About Artist Wendy Yoshimura The shimmering, vivid colors and vibrant detail of Wendy Yoshimura’s watercolor paintings come from a passion shaped and refined by a half century of practiced discipline. On the cover: Wendy was born during WWII at the Manzanar, California, internment camp for Japanese Oyster Americans. After the war, she and her parents moved to Japan to be near her father’s family. It was watercolor on paper on Eta Jima, a small island near Hiroshima, that Wendy developed her passion for art: Eta Jima’s by Wendy Yoshimura brilliant light and lush, varied vegetation provided an environment that inspired her to paint and draw incessantly. Her mother, who had a deep artistic sensibility, encouraged Wendy’s enthusiasm. On this page: Wendy was 13 when the Yoshimuras returned to the United States. Here in California, her drive Pomegranate to create beautiful art grew stronger: It became her refuge and strength in a strange new land where watercolor on paper she did not even speak the language. by Wendy Yoshimura After high school in Fresno, Wendy moved to the Bay Area to attend the California College of the Arts. She has stayed mostly in Berkeley and Oakland since then. Wendy frequently exhibits her watercolors and fine art prints in the Bay Area. Some of her works are displayed at wendyyoshimura.com. Prior to the pandemic, Wendy was offering a Sunday morning watercolor class for all skill levels, beginner to expert, and we can all hope she will eventually be able to resume holding these meetings. edibleeastbay.com Fall/Winter Holidays 2020 1 EDITOR’S MIXING BOWL edible THERE ARE east bay PUBLISHER/ EDITOR/ SO MANY DESIGNER THE SWEETNESS INSIDE THE OYSTER Cheryl Angelina Koehler [email protected] Even during this difficult time, our editors’ experience creating this holiday WAYS WE ASSOCIATE EDITOR issue of Edible East Bay has been sweet. Certainly, much of that has to do with Rachel Trachten all those recipes for pies, candied yams, cookies, truffles, and fruity drinks. CAN BRING [email protected] But the true pleasure has been in all the connections we have made with COPY EDITOR Sam Tillis those who have contributed, most of them people based here in our East Bay community, plus a few living thousands of miles away. If there’s one thing CHEER TO DIGITAL DESIGNER so many of us on this earth have learned through this time of pandemic, it’s Charmaine Koehler-Lodge that the need to stay apart motivates us to be more creative in finding ways OUR SMALLER SOCIAL MEDIA to be together, to connect, and to share. When we can’t get up and run off Meredith Pakier somewhere, there’s more reason to stay still and take the time to listen and be BOOK EDITOR inspired by the important and passionate stories that people have to tell. TABLES AS WE Kristina M. Sepetys In this issue, we hear stories about family, partners, mentors, and friends who AD SALES cooked, grew food, and nurtured memories that have helped the tellers form REACH OUT Niki Z their personal food histories and visions for their futures. Mimi Robinson [email protected] and Tina Wolfe give us sweet recipes from their grandmothers, who inspired CONTACT US them toward launching food businesses. Troy Horton tells how tales from his AND MAKE Edible East Bay grandparents, who watched East Oakland become a food desert, stand behind 1791 Solano Ave, D14 Berkeley, CA 94707 the commitment he now holds toward repairing that damage. Oakland CONNECTIONS. [email protected] restaurant owner Steven Day spins out a rollicking tale featuring cooks, oyster farmers, Oprah, Robert Mueller, and an official from the Alameda County Edible East Bay is published Sheriff’s Office—all people who helped him along a personal path that surprisingly led back to teaching quarterly (February 21, May 21, this fall. We also meet people on two coasts working creatively toward zero waste in efforts to rid our August 21, and November 21) by world of the pollution caused by plastics. All have been inspired to make their worlds better—and Edible East Bay LLC. Distribution sweeter—both for themselves and those around them. throughout California’s Alameda and Contra Costa counties and As the earth tilts our northern hemisphere away from the sun, we enter that time when—in those nationally by subscription. normal times we now enshrine—we would gather for a few of those long, dark nights to share food, SUBSCRIPTIONS are $28 for gifts, stories, songs, and good cheer. With those gatherings now deemed too dangerous, it’s easy to drift four issues or $46 for eight issues, into a sort of wild darkness unseen in most of our lifetimes, but there are so many ways we can bring and can be purchased online at cheer to our smaller tables as we reach out and make connections. We hope the stories in this issue offer edibleeastbay.com or by mail with you much companionship, sweetness, and light. a check sent to the above address. Every effort is made to avoid Cheryl Angelina Koehler errors, misspellings, and Publisher/Editor omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and PLEASE SUPPORT OUR ADVERTISERS! notify us. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of WITHOUT THEM, WE COULD NOT BRING YOU THIS MAGAZINE. the publisher. © 2020. All rights reserved. edible ² EAST No. 54 East Bay Winter Holidays 2018 BAY edibleCelebrating the food culture of San Francisco’s East Bay region since 2005 Missing our events section? It’s alive and well in East Need a last-minute gift? Bay Appetizer, our free e-newsletter. Sign yourself up holiday anticipation Edible East Bay Winter Holidays 2018 ◆ at edibleeastbay.com and several times each month Delivered by postal carrier. you’ll receive news, recipes, and gardening advice, plus Four issues for only $28! edibleeastbay.com/subscribe access to our latest DIY e-books. No. 54 ◆ Anticipation Member of Edible Communities Year 13 2 Fall/Winter Holidays 2020 edible EAST BAY Everyday tonics for heart, joint and bone health Pure organic ingredients & Wild-harvested marine collagen Made in Ojai, California Get Wild: @purewild | purewildco.com edibleeastbay.com Fall/Winter Holidays 2020 3 East Bay Farmers’ Markets Alameda Hayward Montclair Village Union City Haight & Webster City Hall Plaza Moraga & La Salle Old Alvarado/ Tu & Sa 9–1 777 B St Su 9–1 Cesar Chavez Park EBT, WIC, MM Sa 9–1 WIC 30940 Watkins St pcfma.org EBT, some WIC, MM uvfm.org Sa 9–1 Berkeley agriculturalinstitute.org Old Oakland EBT, WIC, MM Kensington 9th St btwn Broadway & Clay pcfma.org Adeline & 63rd St F 8–2 Vallejo Tu 2–6:30 Oak View Ave at Colusa Cir EBT, WIC, MM EBT, WIC, MM Su 9–2 uvfm.org Georgia & Marin St ecologycenter.org EBT, WIC Sa 9–2 Temescal kensingtonfarmersmarket.org EBT, WIC, MM Center St & MLK DMV at 5300 Claremont pcfma.org Sa 10–3 Livermore Su 9–1 EBT, WIC, MM EBT, WIC, MM Walnut Creek Downtown ecologycenter.org uvfm.org Su 9–1, on 2nd St btwn J & K Diablo Valley Shattuck & Vine Th 4–8 at Carnegie Park Orinda Shadelands Office Complex Th 3–7 EBT + WIC + MM Mitchell Dr & N Wiget Ln Community Park EBT, WIC, MM foragersmarket.org Sa 9–1 22 Orinda Way ecologycenter.org EBT + WIC Martinez Sa 9–1 cafarmersmkts.com Brentwood EBT 700 Main St cccfm.org N Locust St 655 First St Su 9–1 Su 9–1 Sa 8–12 until 12/19 EBT, WIC, MM Pinole EBT, WIC EBT, WIC, MM pcfma.org pcfma.org Sanwa Bank Parking Lot cccfm.org Moraga Pear St & Fernandez Ave Castro Valley Sa 9–1 EBT: Electronic Benefit Transfer Moraga Center EBT, WIC, MM is an electronic system for the BART Station Moraga Rd & Moraga Way pcfma.org food stamp program. Redwood Rd & Norbridge Su 9–1 Sa 9–1 EBT, WIC Pleasanton WIC: The Special EBT, WIC, MM cafarmersmkts.com Supplemental Nutrition uvfm.org Corner of W Angela Program for Women, Infants, Newark & Main and Children serves to Concord Sa 9–1 2086 NewPark Mall safeguard the health of EBT, WIC, MM Todos Santos Plaza Su 9–1 low-income women, infants, pcfma.org Willow Pass & Grant St EBT, some WIC, MM and children up to age 5 Tu 10–2 agriculturalinstitute.org Richmond who are at nutritional risk, by Plan now for EBT, WIC, MM providing nutritious foods to pcfma.org Oakland 24th & Barrett Ave supplement their diet.