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Glossar Klettern www.klettern.de Sonderbeilage hot rocks - cold ice - big walls Juli / August 2004 DIE WELT DES KLETTERNS VON A BIS Z GLOSSAR VERTIKAL MIT FREUNDLICHER UNTERSTÜTZUNG VON Glossar Der große Rockhaus von A bis Z Abalakov-Schlinge Sicherungspunkt A im Eis, wobei mit >Eisschrauben eine >Sanduhr gebohrt wird, durch die man ei- ne Reepschnur fädelt. Kommt vor allem beim „Dynamo von der Leiste an den ange- >Abseilen an Eisfällen zum Einsatz. chalkten Sloper mit Tickmark ...“ Wie Ablassen Herunterlassen des im Seil in jeder anderen Sportart gibt es beim hängenden Partners auf den Boden oder zum Klettern eine Menge von Fachbegriffen letzten >Standplatz durch Seil ausgeben. und Szeneausdrücken. Anfängern und Abseilen Abstieg am fixierten Seil. Dieses Außenstehenden mutet der Kletterjargon wird doppelt genommen oder zwei >Halb- oft wie ein Buch mit sieben Siegeln an. seile werden durch den Abseilhaken gezogen Damit das in Zukunft nicht mehr vor- und zusammengeknotet. Mit Hilfe einer kommt, haben wir euch dieses kleine Seilbremse gleitet man am Seil nach unten. Nachschlagewerk zusammengestellt: die Absprunggelände Fläche unter einem wichtigsten Begriffe aus der Welt der Ver- >Boulder, auf der die Landung erfolgt. tikalen vom Boulderblock bis zum Bigwall. Afterwork-Route Wettkampfroute, in der Damit ihr bei der Lektüre rund ums Klet- sich die Akteure vor dem Wertungsdurch- tern nie wieder im Dunkeln tappt. gang versuchen dürfen. Viel Spaß beim Lesen und am Fels! Ägypter auch „drop-knee“ genannt; starkes die klettern-Redaktion >Eindrehen, das wandnahe Knie wird nach innen heruntergedrückt. IMPRESSUM Akklimatisation sukzessive Anpassung des Kostenlose Beilage zu klettern 7+8/04 Körpers an große Höhen (auf Expeditionen, bei Gipfeln ab 3500 Meter zu empfehlen). Chefredakteur: Volker Leuchsner (verantwortl.) Alpines Sportklettern Übertragung des Redaktion: Ralph Stöhr, Steffen Kern Layout: Frank Majer-Koenicke (klettern) Sportklettergedankens auf alpine Wände. Redaktionsanschrift: klettern Team GmbH + Co., Meist Absicherung durch >Bohrhaken. Zieglergasse 11, D - 70372 Stuttgart, Telefon Alpinstil sportlich hochwertiger Stil in mehr- 0711/9547926, Internet: http://www.klettern.de tägigen Routen. >Hochlager oder >Fixseile Fotos: Klaus Fengler (Titelbild), Volker Leuchsner werden nicht verwendet, die Route wird in (S. 3), Ralph Stöhr (S. 4, 7, 8, 12) einem Zug (mit >Biwaks) durchstiegen. Leitung des Geschäftsbereichs: Adi Kemmer am kurzen Seil Sicherungsmethode, die auf Anschrift von Verlag, Anzeigenabteilung und Gletschern, von routinierten Bergsteigern allen Verantwortlichen: Sport + Freizeit Verlag auch auf Graten angewandt wird. GmbH & Co. KG, Leuschnerstr. 1, 70174 Stuttgart, Telefon 0711/18201 am laufenden Seil zur Zeitersparnis klettern die Partner gleichzeitig, wobei das Seil durch KLETTERN GLOSSAR 2004 3 >Zwischensicherungen läuft. Nur für Exper- flacherem Gletscher zu steiler (Eis-) Wand. ten, da riskant (vor allem für den Vorsteiger). Bigwall sehr hohe Wand, meist mit >tech- aper schneefrei (verwendet für Gletscher nischer Kletterei. Für eine Durchsteigung sind sowie Eis- und Felswände). in der Regel mehrere Tage nötig. auschecken (auch ausbouldern) die einzel- Bigwall-Technik der >Nachsteiger klettert nen Passagen einer >Route probieren mit nicht, sondern steigt mit Hilfe einer >Steig- dem Ziel, die richtigen Bewegungsabläufe klemme am Seil nach oben (>jumarn) und herauszufinden und einzustudieren. sammelt das Material ein (>cleanen). Ausgleichsverankerung Alternative Be- Biwak meist frostige Freiluftübernachtung. zeichnung für >Kräftedreieck. Biwakschachtel kleine, alpine Notunter- Band mehr oder weniger schmaler, kunft, meist mit Matrazen und Decken. B langgezogener Absatz in einer Wand. Blankeis wadenmordender Untergrund, in Bandschlinge flaches, nicht elastisches Eiswänden ohne Schneeauflage zu finden. Band aus Nylon mit Haltekräften von meist blockieren 1. den Arm in spitzem Winkel mehr als zwei Kilonewton. Zu Schlingen fixieren. 2. das Seil im Sicherungsgerät arre- vernäht, aber auch von der Rolle erhältlich. tieren (gegen Durchrutschen sichern). Baseclimb kurze Sportkletterroute, die nur Blumenkohleis Wassereis mit knollenartiger den unteren Teil einer höheren Wand nutzt. Struktur und Lufteinschlüssen. Basislager bei Expeditionen Ausgangspunkt Bohrhaken Haken, der in zuvor gebohrtem für die eigentliche Besteigung eines Berges. Loch befestigt wird. Man unterscheidet Begehungsstile siehe Kasten S. 4 zwischen >Expansionsbohrhaken, zemen- Bergschrund Spalten am Übergang von tierten Haken und >Klebehaken. Ersterer DIE WICHTIGSTEN BEGEHUNGSSTILE rotpunkt gängiger Freikletterstil, niemand anderer beim Durchstieg bei dem eine Route von unten nur oder Versuch beobachtet werden). an Griffen und Tritten und ohne solo Durchstieg einer Sportklet- Ruhen in Zwischensicherungen ter- oder Alpinroute ohne Partner. sowie sturzfrei geklettert wird. Seilsicherung ist dennoch möglich. Nach strenger Definition sind die free solo Durchstieg einer Zwischensicherungen im Vorstieg Sportkletter- oder Alpinroute ohne einzuhängen Partner und ohne Seilsicherung. en libre oder pinkpoint quasi Nach strengen Maßstäben darf eine rotpunkt-Begehung, bei der der free-solo-Kletterer außer die Expressschlingen schon in den Kletterschuhen und Chalkbag Zwischensicherungen hängen. nichts dabei haben. Wird heute meist mit rotpunkt vorheriges Auschecken. Infos und toprope Begehung einer Route gleichgesetzt, ist aber leichter. Tipps sind aber zulässig. mit Seilsicherung von oben; der flash rotpunkt-Begehung einer onsight wie flash, jedoch ohne Sichernde steht am Boden, das Route oder Durchstieg eines jegliche Vorkenntnisse der Route Seil läuft oberhalb des Kletterers Boulders im ersten Anlauf ohne oder des Boulders (es darf auch durch eine Umlenkung. KLETTERN GLOSSAR 2004 3 wird nur im Loch verdübelt, der zweite mit Verletzungsprävention bei der Landung. Zement, der dritte mit Zwei-Komponentenkle- Crux schwierigste Stelle oder Passage einer ber fixiert und versiegelt. Kletterroute >Schlüsselstelle) Bolt (engl.) >Bohrhaken. Dach Überhang mit horizontaler Bouldern klettern ohne Seil in Absprung- D Neigung. höhe. Eigenständige Disziplin mit kurzer Klet- deadpointen (im toten Punkt greifen) den terstrecke, aber höchsten Anforderungen an nächsten Griff am Scheitelpunkt einer dyna- Maximalkraft, Körperspannung und Motorik. mischen Hin-Bewegung erwischen. Brustgurt Ergänzung zum >Sitzgurt, die Direttissima Kletterroute, deren Verlauf bei unkontrollierten Stürzen ein Kippen des annähernd der Gipfelfalllinie folgt. Oberkörpers nach hinten verhindern soll. Doppelseil Oberbegriff für alle Seiltypen, bei Buildering klettern an Gebäuden, Bushalte- denen zwei Seilstränge verwendet werden. stellen und Baustellenkränen. Drytooling das Klettern mit >Steigeisen Campusboard überhängende Holz- und >Eisgeräten auf nacktem Fels. C platte mit Griffleisten, von Wolfgang Dynamo schwungvolle, schnellkräftige Güllich erstmals zum spezifischen Krafttrai- Bewegung des Körpers hin zum nächsten ning eingesetzt. Griff (vom kurzen Anziehen bis zum Mega- Cams englischer Begriff für >Klemmgeräte sprung). Wird mit beiden Händen gleichzeitig Chalk >Magnesia. losgelassen, heißt es Doubledyno. Chalkbag umschnallbarer Beutel zur Aufbe- Eindrehen Bewegungstechnik, bei der wahrung von Chalk. E durch Drehen der Hüfte zur Wand in Chalkball durchlässiges, mit Chalk gefülltes steilem Gelände eine bessere Hebelwirkung Stoffsäckchen zur sparsameren Dosierung. und eine größere Reichweite erreicht wird. Clean Climbing zur Absicherung werden Außerdem ist so der >Körperschwerpunkt einzig mobile Sicherungsmittel eingesetzt näher am Fels. (>Klemmkeile, >Friends etc.). Einfachseil einziger Seiltyp, der für den cleanen Einsammeln der Metallwaren durch >Vorstieg im Einzelstrang ausgelegt ist. den >Nachsteiger beim >technischen einhängen (auch >klippen oder klinken) Klettern an >Bigwalls. das Seil an >Zwischensicherungen in die Cliff gebogenes Häkchen zur Fortbewegung >Expressschlingen einführen. beim >technischen Klettern (auch >Hook, Eisgerät kurzer Pickel für steile Eis- und Skyhook). >Mixedklettereien, oft gebogener Schaft. Clippstick Teleskopstock mit Halterung Eisschraube röhrenförmiges Sicherungs- für >Karabiner zum >Klippen von weit mittel im Eis: innen glatt gefräst, außen entfernten >Haken. ein scharfes Gewinde und an der Spitze Copperheads kleine Kügelchen aus Weich- mehrere scharfe Zacken. Die Haltekraft einer metall plus Drahtkabel, die beim >techni- Eisschraube hängt von der Eisqualität ab. schen Klettern in Felsvertiefungen gehäm- Expeditionsstil Vorgehensweise an hohen mert werden. Bergen, bei der einzelne Etappen einer Couloir franz. Ausdruck für enge steile Rin- >Route mit >Fixseilen präpariert und nen, die oft mit Eis oder Firn gefüllt sind. >Hochlager eingerichtet werden. Sportlich Crashpad gepolsterte Bouldermatte zur weniger wertvoll als >Alpinstil. 4 KLETTERN GLOSSAR 2004 KLETTERN GLOSSAR 2004 5 Expressschlinge (auch Express, Runner, >Körperschwerpunkt, indem die Knie nach Exe) Bindeglied zwischen Seil und >Haken außen gedreht werden und der Oberkörper (zwei >Karabiner, verbunden durch eine über den Füßen „absitzt“. kurze, abgenähte >Bandschlinge). Gletscherbruch durch starkes Gefälle Fangstoß die bei einem Sturz über das G des Untergrunds bedingter, stark F Seil auf den Kletterer und die >Siche- zerklüfteter Abschnitt eines Gletschers. rungskette einwirkende Bremskraft. Gouttes d‘eaux >Tropflöcher Fiffi Häkchen zum Einhängen einer >Trittlei- Grat nach beiden Seiten steil abfallender, ter in >Haken.
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