Our 2021 wall and desk calendars as well as season's greetings cards will soon be available!

Boost your brand visibility by printing your 2020 calendars with us. You will benefit from our huge selection of wildlife photographs taken by some of East Africa’s top wildlife photographers. Give us your contacts/details and leave the rest to us!

+254 20 3874145 / 20 3871437 +254 722 202 473 / 734 600632 [email protected] +254 20 3871335 / 20 3870837

4 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 PADDOCK DIARIES FRONTLINE 40 Brian Finch reports on the fascinating habits of bats 05 Director’s Letter occupying his bedroom. 12 News Update PORTFOLIO OPINION 42 Delta Willis profiles wildlife photographer 16 Richard Gregory Schmid expalins the traits of an Federico Veronesi. ethical safari guide. ON SAFARI CONSERVATION 47 Sandy Wood goes on a great escape among apes in 18 Kaddu Sebunya highlights the crucial role of dogs southwestern Tanzania’s Mahale Mountains. in the fight against illegal wildlife trade. 50 Juliet Barnes explores Kenya’s Soysambu 21 Rupi Mangat throws light into the negative Conservancy on camelback. consequences of the planned damming of Uganda’s Murchison Falls. BOOK REVIEW 52 Sidney Shema reviews Rupert Watson’s 25 Symon Masiaine ole Ranah tells the story of book Peacocks and Picathartes: Reflections the northern Kenya pastoralists championing on Africa’s Birdlife. wildlife conservation. 53 Kari Mutu appraises Using our Traditions: 28 Irene Amoke, Laura Deluca and Alex Dudley A Herbal & Nutritional Guide for Kenyan Families highlight innovative community conservation by Tara Fitzgerald for the Trust for Indigenous initiatives thriving despite the pandemic. Culture and Health.

BIODIVERSITY FILM REVIEW 31 Abigail Church details the variety of wildflowers 54 Laura Deluca and Alex Dudley review Kifaru, a and wildlife in Nairobi’s Giraffe Sanctuary. film by David Hambridge.

37 Rupert Watson explores the dietary habits TRIBUTE of oxpeckers and wonders if the birds are saints 55 Alex Bell pays tribute to her father, Tony Archer or sinners. (1933-2020), a self-taught naturalist.

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 5 BOARD MEMBERS Davinder Sikand William Pike Otekat John Emily Cissy Walker Matt Walpole OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | VOLUME 45 | NUMBER 4 Michael Wamithi Elizabeth Migongo-Bake

EAWLS MISSION The East African Wild Life Society is a trailblazing conservation organisation dedicated to helping protect the environment and promoting prudent use of natural resources in the region. The Society carries out its mandate mainly The Impala is the symbol of the East African through advocacy, implementing conservation Wild Life Society. SWARA is the Swahili word programmes, supporting field research, advancing for Antelope environmental education, promoting sustainable development and inspiring people through The East African Wild Life Society vibrant events on wildlife and environmental conservation. @eawildlife

EAWLS WORLDWIDE REPRESENTATIVES USA WHY SUPPORT US Mr & Mrs Harry Ewell East Africa is rich in plant and animal Financial Representatives biodiversity. A partnership with the East 200 Lyell Avenue Spencerport African Wild Life Society is a great way NY 14559-1839 COVER PHOTO: A CARACAL for individuals and organisations to help BY FEDERICO VERONESI conserve the region’s iconic species. Grant Winther Your contribution will help restore and 867 Taurnic Pl. NW Bainbridge Island, safeguard habitats, including forests and WA 98110 wetland ecosystems; protect wildlife EDITOR and marine life while promoting John Nyaga UNITED KINGDOM (UK) sustainable use of natural resources [email protected] Nigel Winser for the benefit of current and future The Old Forge, Brook End, Chadlington, generations. Nature sustains livelihoods EDITORIAL BOARD Oxfordshire. OX7 3NF (01608 676 042) and forms the foundation on which our Nigel Hunter UK mobile - 07495 469941 economies thrive. Your membership William Pike [email protected] offers you tangible benefits and Lucy Waruingi allows you to participate in impactful Delta Willis NETHERLANDS programmes while benefiting from the visibility that the partnership affords. Irene Amoke Stichting EAWLS Ridderhoflaan 37 2396 C J Koudekerk A/D RIJN DESIGN & LAYOUT George Okello SWITZERLAND Copyright©2020 Bernhard Sorgen SWARA is a quarterly magazine owned and CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTIONS Erlenweg 30 8302 Kloten pub­lished by the East African Wild Life So­ci­e­ty, Rose Chemweno a non-prof­it or­gan­isa­tion formed in 1961. Views FINLAND, SWEDEN & NORWAY expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the ADVERTISING & SALES Roseanna Avento views of the publishers. No part of this publica- Gideon Bett [email protected] tion may be reproduced by any means whatsoever +358405355405 without the written consent of the editor. Opin­ PATRONS ions ex­pressed by con­trib­u­tors are not nec­es­sar­i­ly The President of Ken­ya AFRICAN JOURNAL OF ECOLOGY the official view of the Society. SWARA ac­cepts The President of Tan­za­nia The African Journal of Ecology is Published by the in­for­ma­tion given by con­trib­u­tors as correct. The President of Ugan­da Wiley – Blackwell in association with East African Wild Life Society. Purchase a copy of this Journal CHAIRPERSON at Wiley Online Library: wileyonlinelibrary.com/ Elizabeth Gitari journal/aje

VICE-CHAIRPERSON SWARA OFFICES Cissy Walker EAWLS Head Office P O Box 20110 – 00200, HON. TREASURER Riara Road, Kilimani, Nairobi Davinder Sikand Tel: + 254-(0) 20-3874145 + 254 (0) 20 3871437 + 254 (0) 722 202 473 EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR SWARA appreciates the continued support it Nancy Ogonje + 254 (0) 734 600 632 receives from Fauna & Flora International

6 | OCTOBER6 | APRIL - -DECEMBER JUNE 2020 2020 On Wildlife and Plastics

umanity has in 2020 camps and lodges in the Mara been rattled by anxiety in 2016 and produced a report and uncertainty, that was presented to the County thanks to the Covid-19 Government of Narok. The report pandemic.H For conservationists and had recommended that county businesses that rely on travel and government declare a moratorium tourism, the going has been especially on the construction of new camps rough as a result of movement in Maasai Mara. It was also hoped restrictions across the world. the county administration would In Kenya, travel international be guided by the report that also restrictions were eased in August, but advised that camps and lodges in the visits to the country’s national parks Reserve comply with environmental and reserves remain greatly subdued. guidelines. It was expected that with the low The conflict between the staff of a numbers of visitors, tourists would safari lodge and migrating wildebeest have “exclusive viewing” of wildlife. is a clear indication of failure to heed own bags. This practice proceeded That did not, however, happen with the advice in the EAWLS report. well until early 2019 when small clear many tour operators flouting game- The onus is now on the County polythene bags started infiltrating viewing rules. There were reports of Government of Narok and the the market. At first, they were used visitors being allowed to get out of National Environment Management secretly but over time, traders their vehicles, exposing them to the Authority (NEMA) to take action stopped hiding them. Information danger of being mauled or killed by through the implementation of the from some traders revealed that they nervous wild animals. recommendations contained in the entered the country from Uganda. In the Maasai Mara National report and to ensure that the draft This proves that when cross-border Reserve, migrating wildebeest faced Maasai Mara National Reserved policies and laws are not in harmony several challenges this year. Larger Management Plan is completed and it is difficult to enforce a ban numbers of gnus drowned in the implemented. effectively. Mara River than usual. The reason for EAWLS has pollution as one of its this phenomenon remains unknown. Plastics issues of concern in its new Strategic The migrating wildebeest also found Kenya has made three attempts to Plan (2020-2024). We will, therefore, it hard to climb steep riverbanks. ban the use of plastic bags. The first be in the forefront to advocate for But even as the animals struggled one was the 2007 bid to outlaw the harmonization of laws across borders, to overcome the challenges, human manufacture and import of plastic especially between Kenya, Uganda beings in their usual cavalier attitude bags up to 0.03 millimetres in and Tanzania, to ensure effective to natural phenomenon intervened thickness. In 2011, Kenya sought enforcement of the ban on single-use in one area to exacerbate the to do away with plastic bags up to plastics. wildebeests’ problems. Staff in one 0.06 millimetres in thickness. Both Besides, EAWLS will join other of the tented camps in the Mara were attempts failed. Civil Society Organisations, both local seen herding the animals back into In 2017, the government and global to counter efforts by a the river. The apparent lodge stands announced a ban on “the use, lobby from the petroleum industry in on the path of the migrating gnus manufacture and importation of all the United States to influence Kenya and is, therefore a hindrance to their plastic bags used for commercial to water down its legislation against annual movement from the Serengeti and household packaging.” The ban plastic waste in a bid to ensure that plains in Tanzania to Maasai Mara. applies to two categories of bags. The the East African country continues After the public uproar that carrier bag “constructed with handles, to import large quantities of plastic followed the footage of men shooing and with or without gussets” and the garbage from the US. According to a wildebeest back into the Mara River flat bag “constructed without handles, recent report in the New York Times, to prevent them from rampaging and with or without gussets.” it is feared that the United States through the tented camp, the That ban took effect August will force Kenya to reverse its ban on government ordered that the lodged 2017 and Kenyans fully complied single-use plastic in a new trade deal. camp closed. The matter has ended with the law. Retailers, including up in court. supermarkets, that used to churn Nancy Ogonje The East African Wild Life out over 8 million polythene bags a Executive Director, Society (EAWLS) carried out an year, started issuing reusable bags East African Wild Life Society environmental audit of all the 31 or requiring customers to bring their

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 7 President Uhuru Kenyatta Supports Leaders’ Pledge for Nature United to Reverse Biodiversity Loss by 2030 for Sustainable Development

“It is known that we will only be able to tackle the interrelated people and nature crises through concerted actions from governments, businesses and civil society. “As we look forward to ushering in the decade for ecosystem restoration, we must recognize this interconnectedness and set nature on the right path of zero biodiversity loss and promote greener and much more sustainable practices. “The ambition that the world’s political leadership is showing today, is a strong indication that we need to do business differently and therefore place sustainability at the core of our societies and economies. “We need and we must reset our relationship with nature and secure a resilient carbon-neutral, nature-positive world; and therefore ensure the green recovery agenda is on top of our priorities. “And it is for this reason that Kenya is proud to endorse the ‘Leaders Pledge for Nature’ as a sign of our steadfast commitment to halt and reverse biodiversity loss and put nature and our ecosystems, on a path to its recovery by 2030.” Uhuru Kenyatta, President of the Republic of Kenya

Statement by Civil Society in Conservation

“We unreservedly offer our support to President Uhuru Kenyatta in his effort to fulfil the pledge he made on behalf of the Republic of Kenya at the Leaders Event for Nature and People at the United Nations General Assembly on the 28th of September 2020. “This year, the super year for biodiversity, has seen great challenges to nature. However, now more than ever, citizens of the world are coming together to defend, support and express commitment to the protection of biodiversity. “We call on all Kenyans to make a #CitizensPledge for a Decade of Action for Nature, Climate and Youth, to focus on efforts to provide stewardship, protection and restoration of nature. Make a personal commitment to reduce our collective carbon footprint, defend our indigenous forests, restore degraded habitats, reduce the use of plastics and refrain from planet polluting habits. “We pledge to live our lives and conduct our businesses in a nature-positive, carbon-neutral way and to amplify our impact by sharing this commitment broadly. We commit this in order to achieve zero species extinction by 2030 so that our iconic wild life can be enjoyed by all for generations to come.”

8 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 LETTER TO THE EDITOR

EAWLS is excited to welcome the following new Dear Editor, members

On several recent visits to Murchison Falls National Park in Uganda, I have noticed that some animals, whilst close to the road, KENYA stayed put as we drove past at 20-30kph, although the majority MRS CELESTINE KING moved away. The ones that stayed seem to represent a change in behaviour, which has become more common in recent years. UK Here are some examples (with distances in metres from the ELLA ENDERBY roadside ditch): ARTHUR JEFFERIES • Olive Baboons just sit in the road HARRY WATTON • Elephant 8 TIMMY CRITCHLEY • Rothschild’s giraffe 10 JOHN CORKINDALE • Uganda Kob 2 • Jackson’s Hartebeest 2 • Oribi 1 whilst sitting on the road USA • Defassa waterbuck 12 MARK HALPERN • Warthog 3 OLIVER SHIELDS • Spotted hyena 20 whilst walking across the road HOWARD OCONNOR

I should be interested to know if this apparent habituation to UGANDA moving vehicles is widespread and has been for some time? ESABU GABRIEL BARBARA AMESO Derek Pomeroy

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 9 Become a Member The East African Wild Life Society (EAWLS) is the oldest conservation organisation in East Africa working towards enhancing the conservation and wise use of the environment and natural resources for the benefits of current and future generations. By supporting EAWLS, you will be supporting our conservation and advocacy teams’ mission to safeguard, protect and conserve the habitat and wildlife. As a member of EAWLS you will be part of an organisation that uses its experience, influence, reputation and respected voice to ensure that there is sound governance of our natural heritage for the good of all. Categories of Membership & Annual Rates EAWLS Membership is available for both corporates and individuals and we have special rates for families and students. As a member of EAWLS you are entitled to free copies of the Swara Magazine and discounted rates on events and merchandise. The different categories of membership have different annual rates.

For more information visit: www.eawildlife.org or write to our membership officer at [email protected] Mobile: +254 (0) 722 202 473 / +254 (0) 734 600632 Tel: +254 20 3874145 / +254 20 3871437

Please make me a member of the EAST AFRICAN WILD LIFE SOCIETY today and send me copies of SWARA magazine every quarter My Membership category: (Tick box)

Corporate Individual Student

My location: Country: Name (Please print) Address:

Email: Postal code:

Enclosed is my cheque for made payable to the EAST AFRICAN WILD LIFE SOCIETY

Please debit my credit card for VISA MASTERCARD

No. Expiry date:

Tel: Date: Signature:

*Please quote seven (7) digit security number at the back of your card FOR ONLINE PAYMENTS: Use this link: www.eawildlife.org/join/payonline MPESA: Pay bill Number: 502300, Enter "NEW' for new members under the account number on the paybill option Cheques: Be made payable to: East African Wild Life Society

Completed forms with cheque payments to be made to East African Wild Life Society, P.O.Box 20110, 00200, Nairobi, Kenya Important for overseas menbers: Completed forms with payments must for security reasons be sent c/o one of these representatives: USA: EAWLS c/o Harry and Carol Ewel, 200 Lyell Avenue - Speceport NY 14559 - 1839 USA EUROPE: EUROPE: c/o Fauna & Flora International, The David Attenborough Building, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QZ THE NETHERLANDS: EAWLS c/o Johan Elzenga Stichting EAWLS Nederland Ridderhoflaan 372396 CJ Koudekerk a/d Rijn 10 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 11 Offers 10% discount to East African Offers 10% discount to East African Offers 10% discount to East African Wild Life Society members only in Wild Life Society members only in Wild Life Society members only in East Africa. East Africa on: Our 4 wheel drive East Africa. vehicle hire and Mara bush camp. Discounts not valid over Christmas, Discounts not valid over Christmas, Easter and Public holidays or when Discounts not valid over Christmas, Easter and Public holidays or when special offers are given. Easter and Public holidays or when special offers are given. Booking can be made through: special offers are given. Booking can be made through: [email protected] Booking can be made through: [email protected] or [email protected] www.heritage-eastafrica.com

Offers 15% discount to East African Offers 10% discount to East African Offers 10% discount to East African Wild Life Society members only in Wild Life Society members only in Wild Life Society members only in East Africa. East Africa. East Africa.

Discounts not valid over Christmas, Discounts not valid over Christmas, Discounts not valid over Christmas, Easter and Public holidays. Easter and Public holidays. Easter and Public holidays. This is Booking can be made through: Booking can be made through: applicable only if booked directly. [email protected] [email protected] Booking can be made through: www.wildernesslodges.co.ke www.offbeatsafaris.com [email protected] www.serenahotels.com

Offers 10% discount to East African Offers 10% discount to East African Offers 10% discount on Porini Wild Life Society members only in Wild Life Society members only in camps and Nairobi tented camp East Africa. East Africa. to East African Wild Life Society members. Discounts not valid over Christmas, Discounts not valid over Christmas, Easter and Public holidays or when Easter and Public holidays or when Discounts not valid over Christmas, special offers are given. special offers are given. Easter and Public holidays or when Booking can be made through: Booking can be made through: special offers are given. [email protected] [email protected] Booking can be made through: www.maasai.com www.sunafricahotels.com [email protected] www.porini.com

12 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 13 NEWS ROUND-UP

WWF Call for Action A new report by the conservation group WWF provides unequivocal evidence that nature is unravelling Trust Fund for Coral Poachers arrested and that humanity’s destruction Reefs Launched Poaching in Mara North Conservancy of the environment is having A new first of its kind fund to protect (MNC) in Kenya rare but, two catastrophic impacts not only on coral reefs was officially launched suspects were arrested for bushmeat wildlife populations but also on on the sidelines of the 75th Session poaching during a joint operation by human health and all aspects of of the UN General Assembly in New MNC, Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) people’s lives. According to this York. The Global Fund for Coral and Mara Elephant Project (MEP) year’s Living Planet Report, a deep Reefs seeks to raise and invest $500 rangers. In total, MEP rangers and cultural and systemic shift is urgently million in coral reef conservation their partners confiscated a total of needed that requires a transition over the next 10 years. The Fund, 250kg of bushmeat and arrested 11 to an economic system that values a financial instrument that blends bushmeat poaching suspects in May nature. World leaders must take private and public funding, will also alone. Bushmeat is often obtained urgent action to protect and restore support businesses and finance using snares. In total, rangers nature as the foundation for a healthy mechanisms that improve the health removed 74 snares in the second society and a thriving economy. It’s and sustainability of coral reefs quarter of this year. MEP and KWS time to stop and reverse the loss of and associated ecosystems while also seized a total of 40kg of ivory nature by 2030 and build a carbon- empowering local communities and and arrested one suspect in two neutral and nature-positive society. enterprises. separate operations.

UN Biodiversity Summit Leaders from nearly 150 countries in September addressed the first- Flipflopi to Sail across Lake Victoria ever summit on biodiversity to build Nearly 18 months after the Flipflopi made its first historic journey from Lamu, political momentum towards the next Kenya, to Zanzibar, Tanzania, the world’s first 100 per cent recycled plastic meeting of the conference of parties sailing boat (dhow) is all set for another historic voyage. This time to Lake for the Convention on Biodiversity Victoria. The Lake Victoria expedition is supported by the governments of (COP15) in Kunming, China next year. Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania, the UN Environment Programme (UNEP), French The summit was held alongside the Development Agency (AFD), UN Live and several private sector entities. UN General Assembly, which for the Over four weeks in early 2021, the Flipflopi will sail around Lake Victoria, first time in the history of the annual Africa’s largest freshwater lake, highlighting the impact of pollution on the event, global leaders were not able vital ecosystem, and engaging governments, business leaders, community to meet in person, but virtually with leaders, conservationists, and students on viable solutions for the pollution leaders sending recorded video menace. speeches.

14 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 NEWS ROUND-UP

David Attenborough: A Life On Our Planet David Attenborough’s feature documentary, David Attenborough: A Life On Our Planet, premiered in select theatres in Europe and on Netflix September 28. The film has been described as Attenborough’s witness statement for the natural world. It is a unique chance to watch an exclusive conversation between David Attenborough and actor and broadcaster Michael Palin. They share a passion for exploring Earth and a desire to protect it for future generations. In his 94 years, Attenborough has visited every continent on the globe, documenting the living world in all its variety and wonder. In the film, he, for the first time, reflects on both the defining moments of his lifetime as a naturalist, a filmmaker and broadcaster and the devastating changes our planet has gone through over the decades.

Fancy a Foray in the Forest? The tranquil Retreat Centre in the Kakamega Rain Forest - Kenya’s only rain forest - welcomes you to make it your home for a few memorable days, birding or whatever else catches your forest fancies.

+254 733 299 149 / +254 735 894 474 / +254 733 527 702 ▪ [email protected] www.rondoretreat.com

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 15 ACACIA ADVENTURE HERITAGE HOTELS OFFBEAT SAFARIS LTD HOLIDAYS LTD HIGHLIGHT TRAVEL LTD OLONANA AFRICAN CONSERVATION CENTRE HILLCREST INTERNATIONAL OL PEJETA CONSERVANCY AFRICAN QUEST SAFARIS SCHOOLS ORIGINS SAFARIS AFRICAN SAFARI COMPANY HOOPOE ADVENTURE TOURS TZ AFRICAN WILD LIFE FOUNDATION IDEAL TOURS AND TRAVEL PEAK EAST AFRICA LTD AFRICA HOUSE SAFARIS INTERNATIONAL FUND FOR POLLMAN’S TOURS & AIR TRAVEL AND RELATED ANIMAL WELFARE SAFARIS LTD ANNE KENT TAYLOR JAMES FINLAY (KENYA) LTD RED LANDS ROSES LTD ASHNIL HOTELS JUJA PREPARATORY SCHOOL ROBIN HURT SAFARIS (K) LTD ASILIA KENYA LTD RONDO RETREAT CENTRE ATUA ENKOP AFRICA LTD KAREN GABLES AUTOGRAPH SAFARIS KENYA WILDLIFE SERVICE SAFE RIDE TOURS AND SAFARIS KENYA WILDLIFE SERVICE LTD SAFARIS UNLIMITED BARNES D G INSTITUTE SARUNI SAFARI CAMP BASECAMP EXPLORER KER & DOWNEY SAFARIS LTD SATAO CAMP BORANA RANCH KIBO SLOPES SAFARIS LTD SATAO ELERAI LIMITED BUSH AND BEYOND KIBO AFRICA LTD SEIYA LTD KICHECHE MARA CAMP SOMAK TRAVEL LTD CAMP KENYA LTD KILIMA CAMP SOPA LODGES KENYA CENTRE FOR WILDLIFE MGT. SOUTHERN CROSS SAFARIS LTD STUDIES LAFARGE ECO SYSTEMS SOSIAN LODGE CHEMICALS & SOLVENTS (EA) LTD LET’S GO TOURS (SWITZERLAND) SIRAI MANAGEMENT LTD COTTARS CAMP LET’S GO TRAVEL SIRIKOI LTD CONSERVATION EQUITY LIMITED LLOYD MASIKA LTD SOUTHERN SUN MAYFAIR LOISABA CONSERVANCY NAIROBI DISCOVER KENYA SAFARIS STRATHMORE LAW SCHOOL MALIBA PHARMACY LIMITED SUNRISE OF AFRICA SCHOOL ELEWANA MAHALI MZURI MANAGEMENT LTD SWEDISH SCHOOL EL KARAMA TOURISM & MARA-MERU CHEETAH PROJECT WILDLIFE LIMITED MARA CONSERVATION FUND TAWI LODGE MASAI MARA WILDLIFE TAMARIND MANAGEMENT FINCH HATTONS LUXURY CONSERVANCIES ASSOCIATION UNITED MILLERS LTD TENTED CAMP MICATO SAFARIS UNGA GROUP LTD FOUR SEASONS SAFARI LODGE MINET KENYA INSURANCE SERENGETI (TZ) BROKERS LTD VINTAGE AFRICA LTD FRIENDS OF MAU WATERSHED MPALA RESEARCH CENTRE (FOMAWA) MWEKA COLLEGE OF AFRICA WETLANDS INTERNATIONAL WILD LIFE MANAGEMENT (TZ) WILDERNESS LODGES GAMEWATCHERS SAFARIS MUTHAIGA COUNTRY CLUB WILDLIFE SAFARI KENYA GREAT PLAINS WILLIAMSON TEA (K) LTD CONSERVATION LTD NATIONAL ENVIRONMENT WILDERBEEST TRAVELS LTD MANAGEMENT AUTHORITY (NEMA) HARRY P EWELL NAIBOR CAMPS

16 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 Swara Magazine, the journal of the East African Wild Life Society, has championed conservation for over sixty years. We help shape legislation to protect natural resources, galvanize discussion on how best to solve conservation problems and connect networks for advocacy.

Since the onset of Covid-19, advertising revenue for Swara has been decimated by lock-downs. The majority of Swara’s advertising clients in the tourism industry are facing losses and reduced marketing budgets. Print copies help additional sales and can be passed on to young people and schools.

We ask you to help us fill the gap and continue offering our readers essential conservation information.

If you wish to continue supporting us, send your donation via the options below.

Visit our website: www.eawildlife.org

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 17 OPINION

ADVENTURE Ethical Safari Guiding Only with knowledge and understanding of ecosystems can guides foster conservation.

ensure that animals are not disturbed. their safari would be more fulfilling Wildlife tourism should be guided by if they tried to learn something three principles – knowledge, respect new about the subjects of their afari guides play an and passion. Only with the knowledge photography. This underscores the important role in tourism and understanding of ecosystems importance of communication. A and in advocating for the can guides foster the right attitude tour guide must be able to advise conservation of nature. That to conservation and the respect of his clients on how to add value to isS why their training focuses on the nature among their clients. their safari. If I want to bring nature technical aspects of the profession Often, foreign guests will be closer to the guests, I have to be a as well as on guest relations. A good visiting Africa for the first time and good communicator. This includes guide passes on interesting facts will probably be overwhelmed by being able to give instructions on about fauna and flora and tries to the thrill of a safari, the excursion appropriate behaviour while game impart the knowledge of a local into the expansive wilderness and viewing. community’s culture. the anticipation of coming face to The job of a tour guide requires Ethical guiding entails ensuring face with wild creatures they would patience. In tricky situations, I have that correct distances between wild hitherto only have seen on television. to make my guests feel at ease and animals and people are maintained. They need time to let the impressions secure. The latter should be the top On bush walks, litter is collected for sink in. As guides, we have to figure priority. Tourists must feel safe and disposal. Game drives follow the out what clients expect and gauge unnecessary risks must be avoided. tracks so that damage to vegetation is their feelings. Essentials include a reliable vehicle minimized. Many tour companies and I recently had an inquiry from a and a good driver. Clear rules of guides now realize that new models group of photographers whose main engagement and safety apply, of tourism are needed because a interest was taking good wildlife especially for walking safaris. If a growing number of tourists expect pictures. When I asked them if they group is too large, a bushwalk must ecologically and ethically sound tours. were also interested in learning about be split up among several guides I am of the view that since humans animal behaviour and ecosystems, or even cancelled is safety cannot are the visitors, they should avoid they said they were not. I was, be guaranteed. As a rule, the group behaving like intruders and strive to however, able to convince them that size, including the guide, should not

18 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 OPINION

LEFT PAGE A group of tourists in the Maasai Mara Walking safaris are also appreciated and guided by the authoar and a local tour guide. are, especially for children, a great way to be introduced to nature. TOP LEFT The author with his partner Peter Ekai Lomelo in Maasai Mara. find in the wild. I have seen guides species can be highlighted. As drive around frantically until they guides, we can draw attention to the TOP RIGHT spot a leopard. A well-trained and importance of tourism for wildlife A morning walk with guests in ethically honest guide should be able conservation and also for local Samburu National Park. to explain to his or her clients that communities. Safari guides with there are limits to their expectations. an ethical mindset are therefore One should also not make promises important ambassadors of African to the guests, such as that the wildlife and for responsible tourism exceed five people. Guides should wildebeests might cross the river at a in Kenya and other East African keep an eye on the guests and always certain point. countries. walk ahead to observe the area, I have observed, over time, that the Finally, the coronavirus crisis avoid unknown terrain and detect role plants play in sustaining human will most likely also lead to new smells and sounds (such as predator beings and animals is often ignored challenges and changes in tourism. I presence danger warning sounds in conversations during incursions hope people will think more about the from monkeys or birds). into the wild. The interregnum impact of their activities on nature. As safari guides, we are challenged between big game viewing and the People may also not want to travel in many ways. On the one hand, we next thrilling moment in the game in large groups with strangers any work in tourism where economic parks is a perfect opportunity to longer. Physical distancing is difficult considerations are central and the explain the ecological role of plants to maintain on vehicles. Private aim is to ensure guest enjoyment and birds and how climate change safaris in small groups of people, and satisfaction. On the other hand, could affect ecosystems. who want to travel sustainably and we want to explain the animal world Safari enthusiasts also appreciate prudently, could increase. I consider and ecosystems to them. This is often being able to make their own the current challenges an opportunity a bit of a balancing act, especially discoveries and identify animals. to focus more on “soft” tourism, as tourists generally want to see In doing so, they learn to observe embedded in the concept of ethical large mammals. Smaller animals interesting facts and experience guiding. such as the antlion, rhinoceros nature intimately. Walking safaris are beetle, elephant shrew, buffalo also appreciated and are, especially weaver, leopard turtle, birds or the for children, a great way to be RICHARD GREGORY importance of plants are often of little introduced to nature.Knowledge can SCHMID is a trained safari interest to the average guest. This, best be conveyed through storytelling guide and photographer. in turn, can put pressure on drivers in the African bush. In stories, topics He and a partner in and guides to show customers the such as the various food chains, the Nairobi run a small safari promised “Big Five”. But big cats, ecological role of animals and plants company, Eco Safari Ltd. especially the leopard, are hard to or the protection of endangered

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 19 CANINES IN CONSERVATION The Conservation Bark that Bites Working in tandem with wildlife authorities, the Canines for Conservation Program deploys “sniffer dogs” to detect illicit wildlife products hidden in cargo or luggage.

elephants and being transported across the TOP globe? Are law enforcement agencies well A KWS ranger (canine equipped to curb the poachers and traffickers? handler) with his dog search luggage To address the challenges faced by African or decades, man’s best friend has for wildlife products been used to detect drugs, explosives law enforcement in detecting and seizing at Jomo Kenyatta and even lost people. Dogs are built smuggled wildlife products, African Wildlife International Airport to smell. They have nearly 50 times Foundation (AWF) launched its Canines for (JKIA), Nairobi. moreF scent receptors in their noses than we Conservation Program as one of the tools have, plus a 40-times larger portion of their to fight against the trafficking of wildlife brain dedicated to smell. Their skills have products. The program trains and deploys enabled them to climb the social ladder and detection dogs to trafficking chokepoints become the best of friends not just with man - airports, seaports, border crossings - to but with the world’s largest mammal - the uncover illegal shipments of ivory, rhino horn African elephant. and other wildlife products. The demand for ivory has been the greatest To date, there are five countries with fully driver for ivory, rhino horn and other wildlife operational canine units: Kenya, Tanzania, African Wildlife Foundation products that are smuggled from Africa Uganda, Botswana, Mozambique while others launched to markets abroad particularly Asia. With like Cameroon, are at different progress levels Canines for seizures of over 225,000 kilograms of African of canine unit establishment. A total of 48 Conservation ivory and over 4,500 African rhino horns in dogs were purchased and trained as detection Program to combat the the last 10 years, Asian countries have been dogs, with 29 deployed and 19 awaiting trafficking of the main destination for these products. deployment. Sixty-eight wildlife authority wildlife products. The question is how are they getting off our officers were trained on the canine handler

20 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 CONSERVATION

TOP Canine handlers from Working with wildlife authorities, the Canines for Botswana during graduation ceremony Conservation Program trains and deploys sniffer dogs at AWF canine centre to sites across Africa. in Arusha, Tanzania

course, with 62 deployed as canine handlers Trends of dog finds in Kenya, Uganda to date. Some 372 dog finds were recorded and Tanzania as of May 2020. Various dog and handler Corruption has also been an underlying equipment procured and distributed to the driver that has kept poaching afloat over the different canine units to help them execute years. The fact that dogs are incorruptible has their functions. seen an uptake in the number of contraband As much as most would attribute the sniffer busts in the region. In the past, the decline of dogs’ smell receptors as the main driving force elephant populations was visible but tracking to the success of the Canines for Conservation the markets had posed a challenge. Now, program, it is not. Hands-on dog-handler researchers and conservationists have been training is what stands out. The curriculum able to map out the hotspots based on where focuses on teaching the handlers how to busts are made and are following the money handle, motivate, command and care for their trail. assigned dogs. The illegal syndicates that are running Illegal wildlife Working with wildlife authorities, the illegal wildlife trade have proven to be products that Canines for Conservation Program trains and doubling in other illicit practices like drug and have been detected by deploys sniffer dogs to sites across Africa. human trafficking and thus there is a need to sniffer dogs These canines are specifically trained to synchronize efforts between law enforcement at trafficking detect illicit wildlife products - including agencies in any given country. hotspots in Kenya, Tanzania, ivory, rhino horn and pangolin scales - hidden The Canines for Conservation Program and Uganda. in cargo or luggage. is just one step in the right direction to mitigating the trade. There are vital decisions

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 21 CONSERVATION

TOP that need to be made on a global scale like within the continent. A canine handler from closing both domestic and international trade The significance of these majestic animals Cameroon with her of ivory and rhino horn. during the Covid-19 pandemic has been working dog during a There are no proven benefits of these downplayed mainly because in a twist of graduation ceremony. products and AWF has built on awareness luck, they are not vulnerable to contracting TOP RIGHT campaigns to the Chinese market by holding the coronavirus and they are not the cause. Canine handler with successful exhibitions in Beijing and Shanghai However, at AWF, we think of dogs as the his dog working educating citizens on the importance of Most Valuable Players. at Julius Nyerere wildlife and the implications of buying ivory. If there is one lesson we need to take international Airport The decline in the number of busts can only from this pandemic, it is the importance in Dar es Salaam. be a good sign if there is a clear correlation of a balanced ecosystem and the need to BELOW RIGHT with a decline in poaching numbers as well. protect the agents, like the canines and their KWS canine handler Where we do not see a decline in numbers and handlers, who seek to enact this. These dogs with her dog there are no busts, it is easy to deduce that the are a poacher's worst nightmare and rightfully searching through poachers may have found alternative routes so. Law enforcement agencies have been luggage in Nairobi. to transport the contraband. It is in this light working cohesively and now more than ever, that AWF seeks to continue expanding the nature needs them. As the world seeks more program to areas that are not only hotspots pragmatic solutions to the crisis, we need to for the trafficking but are transit points within acknowledge what has been working and the the continent. canines, deserve a standing ovation for their At a time where a majority of the world has relentless fight against illegal wildlife trade. been pushed to work remotely, our canines alongside their handlers within the Canines for Conservation program have amplified KADDU K. SEBUNYA is the CEO security in regions that have been identified of African Wildlife Foundation. to be highly prone to poaching in Africa. He has over 20 years’ experience This month, we deployed extra dogs in a bid in conservation at grassroots, to continue protecting wildlife that plays an national, and regional levels in the integral part in balancing the ecosystems USA, Africa, and Europe.

22 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 CONSERVATION

The Folly Of Damming Murchison Falls It does not seem to matter to the Ugandan authorities that Murchison Falls is a Ramsar site, a wetland of international importance.

n a visit in 2017, we enjoyed a leisurely drive to the top of the famous Murchison Falls, dubbed the ‘most powerful in the world’, Oon a murram road watching the different species of birds and mammals. En route, we met a road works team that said it was smoothening the road. On a return visit in 2020, the road had been upgraded to a tarmac highway, making it impossible to maintain a slow speed. To top it, the contracted Chinese road construction company had cut down swathes of indigenous trees that once lined the road and was home to the chimpanzees of Budongo Forest, an endangered ape. I was with a family friend, an 80-year-old woman who, some five decades earlier, had camped in the park. Returning half a century later, she was shocked at the devastation in the park. To adult insult to injury, Ugandan authorities plan to build a dam on Murchison Falls. The government has insisted that it is not damming Murchison Falls but Uhuru Falls. That is laughable because until 1962, the year of Uganda’s independence, Uhuru Falls did not even exist. Many Ugandans suspect that the tarmac road is intended to facilitate oil prospecting activities and to help Bonang Power, a South African company, to do a feasibility study for the proposed dam on Murchison Falls. Bonang Power was formed in 2014, according to its sketchy Facebook page. It applied for a licence in to build a 360MW dam at Uhuru Falls in June 2019. The little-known Uhuru, which lies in the shadows of its more famous neighbour, came into existence when the Nile burst its banks after heavy rainfall. The flooded river carved out a separate passage a few feet from Murchison Falls. Arial shots show this phenomena.

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 23 responsibility for it in years to come,” said Kamugisha.

Timeline In 2019, the Ugandan government announced its plans to provide power to its citizens by damming Murchison Falls. A public outcry made the government revise its plans, stating that it was not damming the magnificent Murchison Falls but the less-known Uhuru Falls. This led to another public protest by investors in tourism, green activists and local communities. “The Uganda Women’s Birders is not happy about the dam issue,” said Lilian Kamusilime, a member of the group specializing in birding safaris. “Since the road works started many species of birds have disappeared like the three species that were always there to welcome guests to Murchison Falls: the Black and White Casqued Hornbill, the majestic TOP LEFT “We have written to the National Abyssinian Hornbill and the elegant Saddle- Abyssinian Ground Environment Management Authority (NEMA) bill Stork, which has the same colours as Hornbills inside and the Uganda National Roads Authority Uganda’s national colours – red black and Murchison Falls (UNRA) for a copy of the Environmental National Park. yellow.” Social Impact Assessment (ESIA) to inform In recent years, African governments TOP RIGHT us whether the road is part of the oil roads,” have been hell-bent on generating power to Road maintainance said Dickens Kamugisha, the current CEO of fast track their Vision 2030 or Vision 2040 in Murchison Fall the Africa Institute for Energy Governance development plans. It is mostly at the expense National Park (AFIEGO). “They, however, have ignored us. of the environment. The Ugandan government Total, the oil company, maintains that it’s not BELOW LEFT wants to boost the country’s electricity Road to the top of part of the oil roads and it is not a party to it.” supply to the national grid from 26 per cent Murchison Falls Uganda has the approved energy company to 80 per cent in 20 years. According to the National Park Total E&P to develop six oilfields in the park. government, the demand is growing at 10 per “So, for now, we do not have any ESIA for cent per year. the road to see the possible risks,” added Already, 80 per cent of Uganda’s electricity Kamugisha, who is also an advocate of the is generated on rivers, gobbling waterfalls like High Court of Uganda and holds a Master of Karuma that once boasted a stunning cascade Law degree majoring in Energy Governance at the edge of Murchison Falls National Park. from Makerere University. He regularly writes There are plans for more dams similar to on oil and electricity governance. the 840-megawatt plant inside the park that “We suspect that the road is to facilitate could become the country’s largest hydro both the oil activities and to help Bonang energy park. to do a feasibility study for the dam. This is “If it’s a question for providing power to the beginning of the curse that will greatly Ugandans, there are other sources to tap damage biodiversity and nobody will take into,” said s Kamusilime. “But if the tarmac

24 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 CONSERVATION

roads continue to be constructed and the Fall of Murchison BELOW dam built, we may as well change Murchison NEMA, Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) Top of Murchison Falls National Park to Murchison Highway and Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) had in Falls is always a two-in-one activity National Park.” August 2019 rejected the proposal to build for you get the best “The government wants to swap the iconic the hydropower dam. But in November, the time watching the falls for a dam that has no market and is too president directed his cabinet to review the birds and also enjoy expensive for the citizens to afford. Even the decision against the project and allow Bonang the spectacular president knows that we currently earn over to conduct a feasibility study. view of the Nile $1.6 billion from tourism and it’s the iconic “If the Ugandan government decides to and the landscape. features such as Murchison Falls that attract go ahead with the dam,” said Kamugisha, tourists.” “AFIEGO will file a case in court […] to defend Murchison Falls and Budongo Forest our right to a clean and healthy environment ecosystems have an economic value of over including the right to nature.” But, even he $60 billion, compared to the $2 billion per acknowledges that the courts are weak on year from oil for 20 to 30 years that the politically-related cases, especially when the Ugandan government estimates it will earn. president has an interest in it. Public pressure “Electricity and oil cannot be compared to could be more potent, he added. the biodiversity value of the Murchison Falls It does not seem to matter to the Ugandan National Park and Bugondo Forest,” reads authorities that Murchison Falls is a Ramsar a petition submitted to the government by site, a wetland of international importance. Economic value of Murchison opponents of the dam. In neighbouring Kenya, a similarly cavalier Falls and Kamugisha added: “I still believe that with attitude to conservation prevailed in the Budongo Forest pressure from the consortium of organisations construction of the Standard Gauge Railway ecosystems compared to the against the project, the dam plan may fail with the railroad cutting through the Tsavo $2 billion per even when the feasibility study is completed. East National Park and Nairobi National Park. year from oil for But the huge roads with no ESIA [have] done In Tanzania, with the government is 20 to 30 years [their] damage.” pushing ahead with the implementation of the that the Ugandan government Nyerere Hydropower Project in what was once estimates it part of the Selous Game Reserve, a UNESCO will earn. World Heritage Site. Already, 80 per cent of “The biggest problem regarding Uganda’s electricity is conservation is not lack of relevant laws but non-compliance,” lamented Kamugisha. “We generated on rivers, have many good national laws but corruption gobbling waterfalls like and bad governance fail everything. Karuma that once boasted Murchison Falls and others may become a stunning cascade at the victims irrespective of Ramsar. But if all edge of Murchison Falls Ugandans stand up the way they did for National Park. Mabira Forest, we can stop impunity.”

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 25 People’s power for Mabira feet to continue its flow to the Mediterranean TOP Mabira, a rainforest covering 300km2 near Sea. The Murchison Falls Conservation Area Enangered Rothschild the town of Jinja is home to many endangered (MFCA) is home to rare species, including giraffes in Murchison Falls National Park. species such as the Uganda mangabey. the Rothschild giraffe and chimpanzees. In 2007, the government announced the The protected area has since 2005 been INSERT degazettement of Mabira Forest Reserve to considered a Lion Conservation Unit. Ugandan kob in turn one-third of it into a sugar plantation. MFCA is already besieged with oil wells and in Murchison It promised 3,500 jobs with the sugar exploration extending up to Lake Albert (into Falls National Park. project contributing 11.5 billion Ugandan which the Nile flows from Murchison Falls) It is endemic in shillings ($3.1 million) to the treasury. The with more dams being built along its course, Ugandan and South Sudan. Kabaka (king) of the Buganda community including the Grand Ethiopian Renaissance opposed the deforestation. A thousand Dam, a gigantic project on the Blue Nile that people demonstrated with at least three killed when completed will be capable of producing during the ensuing riots. The state’s sugar 6,000 megawatts of electricity. Some experts plantations were set on fire. Besides, the have said that the dam has the potential of public threatened to boycott the state’s Lugazi causing the drying up of Lake Turkana in sugar band. Kenya, which is the largest permanent lake in Despite the president’s support for the a desert. Construction of the Ethiopian dam sugar project, the environmental minister in has been fiercely resisted by Egypt, which May 2007 suspended the deforestation plans. fears that its water supply is at stake. Mabira has become a symbol of Uganda’s social struggles with citizens demanding accountability from their government. RUPI MANGAT writes about travel and environmental issues and is Fact File the editor of the Wildlife Clubs of Murchison Falls National Park in north- Kenya magazine, Komba. western Uganda measures 3,893km2. The waters of the Nile flow through a narrow gorge that is 23 feet wide before plunging 141

26 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 Twiga Walinzi: Pastoralist Researchers Boost Community Conservation Enlisting community support is critical to conflict mitigation and the success of conservation efforts.

Pastoral communities such as the TOP Maasai, Samburu, Pokot, Turkana, Rendile The 2019 community and Borana inhabit the northern Kenya day in Sarara Valley Namunyak. ome anthropologists have posed this rangelands. These areas are mainly savannah question to wildlife conservationists: ecosystems that endure nomadic livestock “If in the course of saving biological herding of cattle, but also goats, sheep, and diversity you destroy cultural camels. diversity,S what have you accomplished?” Charismatic species such as elephants, Human activities such as poaching and giraffes, lions, Grevy’s zebras, and leopards Number of land-use conversion are major threats to also exist in the same space. In these wildlife images wildlife populations across the world, as the rangelands, pastoralists, livestock and taken by Twiga Walinzi’s network human population explodes and encroaches wildlife have lived side by side for years, of 100 camera natural habitats unchecked. Therefore, with and that coexistence can assist biodiversity, traps in two years even more people, community participation is with balance. Interestingly, large numbers of data collection. key to saving biodiversity. of wildlife in northern Kenya, including It is through this dual nature of wildlife giraffe, occur outside formally protected conservation that Twiga Walinzi (Kiswahili areas. However, changing cultural practices, for Giraffe Defenders) was established in increased human and livestock populations, northern Kenya. In June 2016, San Diego Zoo competition between wildlife and livestock Global, the Giraffe Conservation Foundation and the growth of agro-pastoralism are all and other conservation stakeholders, placing great pressure on the land. established an initiative to support pastoral Climate change and human activities, communities who live alongside wildlife to including overgrazing and charcoal burning, secure the last remaining strongholds of degrade the rangelands to the detriment of the now endangered reticulated giraffe in both livestock and wildlife. Over the past 30 northern Kenya. years, giraffes have been poached in large

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 27 CONSERVATION

TOP LEFT/ At Twiga Walinzi, we aim to work with members of the BELOW LEFT community at all levels, starting with elders, morans young Women from different unmarried men, women and children. units entertain guests during the 2019 community day. numbers for meat. A single giraffe can feed meetings, extremely important for our a large family for days. Anecdotal data show communities to gain knowledge on relevant RIGHT Research assistant that poaching is having a devastating effect on conservation topics and also learn about the Sebastian Lerapayo, giraffe numbers. work we do and how members can participate. interviews a Reticulated giraffe, also known as the For example, we use camera traps to community elder Somali giraffe, a top tourist attraction in document the distribution of wildlife in about the use of the north, are now listed as ‘endangered’ on community lands but morans sometimes giraffe parts and the IUCN Red List of species threatened by damage them. One elder explained that some meat. extinction. Numbers have declined by 56 per community members felt the cameras were cent in three decades. There are an estimated being used to spy on them. We then showed 15,500 Reticulated giraffes in Kenya. Other them the images collected and explained subspecies in the country include Maasai their purpose. This significantly reduced giraffe (12,800) and Nubian giraffe (625). camera trap damage. We also conduct The Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) launched routine photographic monitoring and road- a Recovery Plan for Giraffe in Kenya l in 2018. kill surveys to document giraffe population Year Kenya Wildlife Service The plan entails community involvement. numbers and the threats they face. (KWS) launched At Twiga Walinzi, we aim to work with For our work to be successful, we need a Recovery members of the community at all levels, to build relationships with different Plan for Giraffe starting with elders, morans young unmarried communities. Our teams work to change in Kenya. The plan entails men, women and children. We also strive to attitudes towards wildlife, one community community engage with herding boys during our daily at a time. We have a team of passionate involvement. routines. We hold community engagement and dedicated local researchers led by

28 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 Symon Masiaine, the national conservation and jointly assess progress. In 2018, we TOP coordinator. started the Namunyak Twiga Community Day Ruth Lekupanae In Loisaba, we have Lexson Larpei as where we bring together members from the (second from Left), research assistant project coordinator for Laikipia and Anthony Namunyak units of Kalepo, Nalouwon, and Sebastian Lerapayo Liosoi the research assistant. In Namunyak, Ngilai, the trustees of the conservancy, school and one of the we have a team of 11 grassroots researchers clubs, KWS, county government officials and rangers interview headed by Jonathan Lenyakopiro with other conservation partners to Sarara Valley. a member of the Johnson Lekushan, Ruth Lekupanae, Joseph The annual community day aims to discuss community in one of Lekalgitele, Joseph Lemirgichan, Maxwell progress and challenges experienced over the the villages in Sarara. Lororua as his assistants. Several other youths preceding year and chart the way forward. At provide security to our teams in areas where that forum, women groups and schools from dangerous wildlife are present. different communities also use art (songs, We also run questionnaires to document drawings, poems) inspired by nature to how communities interact with giraffes and spread the conservation message. other wildlife . Our primary study areas are We strongly believe that we need to protect Loisaba (Laikipia) and Namunyak (Samburu) biodiversity for the benefit of future community wildlife conservancies. Given generations. We have enrolled 17 schools, that human-wildlife conflict is a problem both in Loisaba and Namunyak, in the throughout East Africa, it is important to conservation education programme. At Twiga quantify and record community perceptions, Walinzi we intend to continue nurturing the attitudes and beliefs concerning giraffe and enthusiasm of the younger generation for other wildlife. Enlisting community support is as long as our resources allow. We plan to critical to conflict mitigation and the success expand this programme to other counties that of conservation efforts. Information from have expressed interest. attitude surveys can inform conservation interventions and policy. Community Twiga Walinzi Initiative: bit.ly/3dk5eBX members have provided valuable information that has helped map poaching hotspots, while others have been able to dissuade their peers SYMON MASIAINE OLE RANAH from trafficking in giraffe meat and other is the Twiga Walinzi Conservation products. Coordinator at Loisaba- Namunyak Conservancies. We share our findings through the Twiga Walinzi Initiative meetings and community members take ownership of all information

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 29 CONSERVATION

COVID-19 AND CONSERVATION Innovative Community Conservation Initiatives amid a Pandemic The pandemic provides an opportunity to rethink the prevailing wildlife conservation model to enhance resilience in the absence of foreign tourism.

However, to date, tourist numbers, especially during the high season brought about by the wildebeest migration, are at a fraction of normal levels. he 2009 film “Milking the Rhino,” On a positive note, the slump in visitation has provided relief to big cats - namely lions, a documentary about community- Percentage based wildlife conservation, explores leopards, and cheetahs - long adversely increase in the problem of conservation impacted by tourist overcrowding. However, bushmeat Tthat is too dependent on tourism. In the the decline of revenue for KWS, along with seizures between January and May film, members of the Maasai community loss of jobs in the safari and hospitality compared to the challenge James ole Kinyaga, the host of the industry, raised the odds of increased same period last Il Ngwesi Lodge in Kenya, on the stability of poaching. In northern Kenya, 2020’s first year in Kenya. tourism. Revenue from tourism goes pays for case of ivory poaching was recorded in April schools, buses, and road maintenance. But during the lockdown. Meanwhile, the country a community member raises the question: as a whole witnessed a 56 per cent increase in “What if we get a drought of tourism?” bushmeat seizures between January and May Some 11 years later, with the global travel compared to the same period last year. industry devastated by the novel coronavirus, this question remains prophetic. While the African continent claimed only five per cent of COVID-19 cases reported across the globe by mid-July of 2020, its people and wildlife may feel its fallout more than other regions. On the eve of the pandemic’s acceleration in March 2020, the authors met while attending the Pathways 2020 Conference, in Limuru, 20km from Nairobi. An array of visionaries from across Africa exchanged ideas, about how to make wildlife conservation a durable enterprise. Since then, we have corresponded with colleagues about the perils brought to East African wildlife conservation by COVID-19.

Socio-economic context Before the pandemic, the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) boasted approximately 2 million tourists visiting the country’s national parks annually, contributing 79 per cent of their budget. Since then, revenue nosedived to 1.2 per cent of this, and operations in 20 parks and reserves went down by 60-70 per cent, according to former KWS’s Director-General, John Waweru. In June 2020, Tanzania began welcoming tourists back provided they tested negative for COVID-19 on arrival. Meanwhile in Kenya, some domestic travel restrictions were lifted in July, and its borders opened to international tourists in August 2020.

3030 || OCTOBEROCTOBER -- DECEMBERDECEMBER 20202020 CONSERVATION

These communities required support to successfully address land-use planning, natural resource management, and tackle population growth.

This threatens to reverse key gains in wildlife protection that Kenya earned in recent decades, notably the doubling of its elephant population from 16,000 in 1989 to 34,000 in 2018. To prevent such a scenario, numerous conservation stakeholders see a need to transform conservation into a business model. Here we present notable examples.

Tanzanian case study Dorobo Safaris has been committed to Tanzanian ecotourism since the 1980s. They realized that expanding human populations and activities such as agriculture and charcoal burning posed a serious threat to northern Tanzania's biodiversity and wildlife. Dorobo’s founders became convinced that a more holistic approach was needed and helped to launch a community-based organisation to assist local Maasai and Hadzabe in resource management and governance. These communities required support to successfully address land-use planning, natural resource management, and tackle population growth. LEFT PAGE A herd of Grevy's Several Maasai with deep roots in these zebra. were recruited. The Dorobo Fund, a 501(c) (3), was registered in the United States that TOP allows for federal tax exemption of nonprofit Edward Loure organisations. To implement projects on the teaching Hadzabe ground in Tanzania, a local trust, the Ujamaa hunter gatherers of Community Resource Team (UCRT) was born northern Tanzania how to secure in 1997. Initially, the Dorobo Fund was the land rights. sole funder for UCRT, but good work attracted the support of donors from across the world. BELOW UCRT works to empower communities to The district secure legal rights over their lands and natural beekeeping officer resources, building skills, knowledge and from Busega District, management capacity within these villages. outside the western Serengeti, trains In this way, communities become enabled reformed poachers groups of people who can make wise and on how to construct informed choices about their resources honey bee fences to Meanwhile, in Lamadi, Tanzania, the deter crop-raiding by gateway to the western on the shores of Lake elephants. Victoria, the Peace for Conservation (PfC), a non-governmental organization, is working with impoverished rural communities that have long hunted in the Serengeti National Park for bushmeat. Before the outbreak of COVID-19, PfC trained two former poachers

OCTOBEROCTOBER -- DECEMBERDECEMBER 20202020 || 3131 BIODIVERSITY

to become conservation ambassadors, and education services as well as enhanced TOP through presentations at primary schools livelihood opportunities to enjoy direct and Edward Loure, the and advocacy among villagers. PfC also used tangible benefits from this wildlife. 2016 Goldman Prize Recipient for Africa, local soccer tournaments as venues to connect teaching a Tanzanian Lamadi residents with conservationists, in Conclusion Maasai community addition to covering all expenses for the Despite causing hardship to East African how to establish winning team to visit Serengeti National wildlife conservation, the COVID-19 pandemic traditional land Park. Although the pandemic has halted the provides an opportunity to dramatically rights. tournaments, when school classes resumed rethink the model and make it more resilient in July 2020, the ex-poachers revived their in the absence of foreign tourism. advocacy campaigns. Even if visitors from outside resume their trips to Africa in earnest, some communities Kenyan case studies may have learned the importance of having In the north of Kenya, the Grevy’s Zebra Trust contingency plans to help themselves and (GZT) created the Nkirreten Project (Samburu wildlife survive any future disruptions of word for “undergarment”) which includes tourism. the manufacturing of reusable sanitary pad. The project generates income and ensures that girls do not miss school because of menstruation. LAURA DELUCA is a cultural Since the pandemic began, the women anthropologist who is passionate diverted their energy to producing 700- about community conservation in 1,000 zebra-patterned face masks a week, northern Tanzania. distributing them free of charge. At the national level, the Kenya Wildlife Trust (KWT) is working in three of Kenya’s ALEX DUDLEY is a field researcher and environmental most important ecosystems – the Greater journalist for the Katie Adamson Mara, Samburu-Laikipia and Amboseli-Tsavo. Conservation Fund, a U.S.-based KWT aims to protect vulnerable predator organization. populations, empower local communities and educate them and other stakeholders about IRENE AMOKE is currently the conservation and environmental stewardship. Executive Director of Kenya KWT believes that for predators and other Wildlife Trust (KWT). wildlife to thrive, communities who co-exist with them need improved access to healthcare

3232 || OCTOBEROCTOBER -- DECEMBERDECEMBER 20202020 BIODIVERSITY

ECOSYSTEMS The Wildflowers & Wildlife of Nairobi’s Giraffe Sanctuary The unique haven in the Langata suburb of Nairobi deserves appreciation and I have only begun to share what an extraordinary privilege it has been to witness this ecosystem.

he Giraffe Sanctuary, located in the Nairobi suburb of Langata, covers an area of approximately 120 acres. It lies on the eastern side of the Troad opposite the Giraffe Centre, and is also owned and managed by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife (AFEW), a non-profit organisation whose mission is to educate children about wildlife and the importance of conservation. Whilst many of you may have visited the Giraffe Centre, very few have explored the sanctuary on the other side of Nyumbi Road where the giraffe feed on natural browse at night. In spite of its small size, it is home to a surprising variety of mammals, birds, indigenous trees and flowering plants. For over 10 years, I have lived in the Giraffe Sanctuary. This is a story of observation, a dry. I began to recognize birds by their calls, TOP skill I learnt from my mother, Carol Church, and giraffe by the patterns on their coats, and The main attraction and for which I am eternally grateful to her. their individual behaviours. for both school children and tourists Over time, I began to notice more and more The Giraffe Sanctuary is at an elevation of are the Rothschild’s about my surroundings and became especially approximately 1,780m (5,800 feet) just south giraffe at AFEW’s interested in the wildflowers that occur here. of the Equator and receives about 650mm Giraffe Centre. I found that the plants are habitat-specific (25”) of rain annually. Rain normally falls and became curious about the controlling in April/May and November. Humidity is BELOW factors on their flowering and appreciated the normally between 60-80 per cent and, owing The Giraffe Sanctuary dramatic seasonal changes between wet and to its latitude, day length is almost constant. in Langata is a haven of biodiversity and a The area is comprised of distinctly different hidden gem. habitats; dry upland forest, rocky slopes, open grassy areas (vleis) as well as several small seasonal wetlands.

Rocks and soils The sanctuary is easily accessible from The Giraffe Centre and there are many well- marked walking trails west of the Gogo River and up to the Ngong Viewpoint.

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 33 BIODIVERSITY

Living here, one cannot fail to notice and appreciate the plethora of flowering plants in every corner of the sanctuary.

Trees Open areas on the eastern side of the sanctuary host many fine examples of Combretum molle and a handful of splendid Acacia gerradii. There is much Carrissa spinarum, Rhus (now Searsia) natalensis, Euclea divinorum and Croton dichogamus in these higher areas too. Near the Ngong Viewpoint, there is a small patch of Leleshwa (Tarchonanthus camphoratus) and a few Albizia amara. A small forest adjacent to Mukoma Estate near Kikenni Lane is dominated by tall African Olive (Olea europaea var. africana) and Silver Oak (Brachyleana huillensis). The Gogo Valley runs north-south, through which the seasonal Gogo River flows. Soils are well-developed in the valley with some beautiful large mature trees including the aforementioned Brachyleana, as well as Croton megalocarpus, Ficus thonningii and sycamorus, Albizia schimperiana, Elaeodendron buchananii and several of the genus Vepris.

Wildflowers Living here, one cannot fail to notice and appreciate the plethora of flowering plants in every corner of the sanctuary. Of course, it is TOP Those wishing to explore further can arrange following the rains that they really come to Craterostigma to go with one of the sanctuary rangers who life. I began photographing the wildflowers plantigineum also know the whereabouts of the giraffe. back in 2010 and gradually assembled a The upper eastern areas adjacent to Mukoma BELOW collection of over 80 different species. Friends Craterostigma hirsuta Estate consist of several small grassy vleis, and neighbours often found me lying on my Two plants of the bare rocky areas and slopes overlain by red stomach trying to photograph some tiny same genus that soil, some man-made waterholes and seasonal hidden flower at an impossible angle, and occupy subtly wetlands. The exposed rocks belong to the encouraged me to put the photos together different niches, the Nairobi trachyte formation that erupted for us all to share. I wish I knew more former preferring around 3.2 million years ago from fissures in about botany, and am lucky enough to have more shady ground whilst the latter the floor of the developing Great Rift Valley. friends who are experts who have helped me thrives in full sun. The Ngong Hills, which dominate Nairobi’s enormously with identification. western skyline, are the remnants of a large The most natural way for me to group the crater that developed a million years later. plants was based on their habitat. Many of In some places where water flows during the plants have very specific requirements; the rainy seasons, there are well-developed shade vs. sunlight, rocky soils vs. black cotton ferruginous palaeosols, or old soils better and so on. I became fascinated with just how known locally as “murram”, the material used specific some plants needs are, such as the locally on road surfaces. The poorly drained Craterostigma, of which there are two species grassy vleis are underlain by black cotton here: plantagineum and hirsuta. Both species soils, notoriously clogging and sticky when grow in thin soils underlain by rock, however wet but shrinking to form deep cracks the former grows in slightly shadier areas when dry. with dappled sunlight and the latter in bright

34 || OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 BIODIVERSITY

TOP LEFT Aerangis brachycarpa and MIDDLE Bonatea steudneri, two magnificent orchids.

TOP RIGHT Tinnea aethiopica with its delightful maroon velvety petals beneath a green bonnet has yellow stamens resembling tiny eyes.

BELOW LEFT Ochna ovata bursts into fragrant blossom after even a moderate shower.

BELOW RIGHT Microcoelia moreauae is an epiphytic orchid sunlight. So, they rarely occur together. ground orchid with green and white flowers that grows on My booklet begins with familiar flowering usually appearing after the long rains. gnarled Ochna ovata branches. shrubs; Carissa spinarum, Searsia natalensis The flowers of some plants are strong and Grewia similis. Less well-known shrubs smelling; Searsia natalensis has an include Ochna ovata – common in the unpleasant pungent musty smell whilst sanctuary and for much of the year pretty Gnidia cordata releases its delightful scent unremarkable until it rains. Even a moderate around sunset. The Lippeas, Ocimums and shower can trigger this shrub into flowering, Plectranthuses have scented leaves used with a sweet-smelling yellow blossom only locally to cure malaria and other maladies. lasting one day. The following morning Tinnea aethiopica is one of my favourites the ground beneath is littered with yellow with exquisite dark velvety flowers and tiny confetti. The young leaves of Ochna ovata yellow eyes peaking out from beneath a are a beautiful coppery colour, soft and greenish “bonnet”. The genus gets its name glossy. Lichen grows on its branches and it is from the Dutch family, Tinne, patrons of the common host plant of the micro-orchid botany in the 19th Century. The intrepid Microcoelia moreauae. Henrietta Tinne travelled up the Nile with There are at least four other orchids in the her two daughters on a scientific expedition Giraffe Sanctuary. The epiphytic Aerangis in 1861, collecting seeds of many plants brachycarpa, with its long sprays of white including this one. flowers, almost always grows low down, Many of the sanctuary’s flowering usually less than 2m above the ground. The plants are small such as the tiny Justicia showy Bonatea steudneri is a truly spectacular calyculata, the nectar of which is a very

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 35 BIODIVERSITY

TOP LEFT Murdannia clarkeana is a uncommon plant whose flowers open in the late morning.

TOP MIDDLE Drimia calcarata is very tricky to find in rocky areas, visible as narrow dry stems with no leaves and producing tiny white star-shaped flowers.

TOP RIGHT Likewise, the spiny stems of Huernia aspera are also difficult to spot and can be found tucked under other shrubs find, growing beneath other shrubs in rocky in the shade, its Many of the sanctuary’s areas but with the most delicate dark maroon flowers are a deep flowering plants are small bell-shaped flowers finely veined on the outer maroon five-pointed such as the tiny Justicia surface of the petals. star. Some of the most pleasing wildflowers BELOW LEFT calyculata, the nectar of grow from bulbs; Gladiolus candida (name which is a very important Gladiolus sadly changed from the much more attractive candida typically fodder for bees. ukambensis), and a personal favourite, the flowers with the April minute iris Moraea stricta, which flowers rains. for just a fortnight in July/August most important fodder for bees. Some only years. Climbers include Kenya’s national BELOW RIGHT open their flowers in late morning such as flower, Gloriosa superba, Thunbergia Moraea stricta, flowers for only about Zornia setosa and Murdannia clarkeana. alata and many others. Another interesting a fortnight each July/ Others have a very limited distribution climbing genus is the Ceropegias of which, August. and qualify as “threatened”, including with help, we have now identified four Nesaea kilimandscharica which is actually species: denticulata, albisepta, racemosa Both Gladiolus common here. One of my favourites is and meyerii-johannes. These climbers have candida and Moraea Drimia calcarata – virtually impossible to exquisite flowers resembling lanterns. stricta erupt from see, tucked into the most inhospitable rocky Seasonal wetlands are a very special bulbs although at different times of places, it has no leaves, must photosynthesize habitat with their own assemblage of plants. year. through its spindly stems, and produces a Murdannia simplex, Ajuga remota, Cycnium spiral arrangement of tiny white star-shaped tubulosum and the little Lobelia fervens all flowers. Where its stem meets the soil it enjoy wetter areas. I must also mention the curls into a perfect coil just above the bulb. It stunning, and often overlooked grass aloe; Aloe reminds me of a car radio aerial and I wonder myriacantha, which grows on the edge of black if it has also been engineered to bend rather cotton vleis and perhaps surprisingly is the than snap. Huernia aspera is also tough to most widely distributed aloe in Africa occurring

36 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 BIODIVERSITY

in almost every country south of the Sahara. Kirk’s dik-dik and suni are all regularly seen. TOP LEFT I would like to end with a story. We all know Common warthog are prolific, and I have Aloe myriacantha. that cacti do not occur in Africa. However, we once seen a family of bush pig. Spotted hyena This often overlooked Aloe is in fact the do have one which arrived on the east coast are often heard at night, along with Greater most widespread in of this continent possibly as recently as a few galago or bushbaby. Smaller nocturnal Africa. hundred thousand years ago. This epiphytic mammals include Dwarf galago, White-tailed cactus, thought to originate in South America mongoose, African hedgehog, the Giant TOP RIGHT/ most likely found its way here, the long way pouched rat and of course the irritatingly BELOW LEFT around island-hopping via Indonesia and the vocal Tree hyrax. Slender mongoose are Rhipsalis bracciferra Indian Ocean islands on floating branches. frequently seen as are Ochre bush squirrels. Rhipsalis bracciferra is Africa’s only cactus. The species in Kenya is the same as that found Sykes’ monkeys enjoy the forest and Vervet Originating in South in South America – Rhipsalis braccifera monkeys visit from time to time. We have America, it is thought although here we have the subspecies seen leopard tracks and once encountered a to have arrived on mauritiana. The fact that it hasn’t yet evolved lioness in our garden! Africa’s shores on into a totally separate species indicates that floating branches not its arrival here is relatively recent. It is also Birds via the shortest route across the Atlantic, known by the common name “Mistletoe Over 180 bird species have been recorded but the long way Cactus” and has tiny white flowers which in the sanctuary most of which are resident, round – island produce spherical white fruit. however numerous migrants and nomadic hopping across the species also pass through. Raptors are Pacific and Indian Mammals commonly seen above the forest: namely Oceans. Other than the introduced Rothschild’s the Great Sparrowhawk, African Goshawk, giraffe, for which the sanctuary is best known, Long-crested Eagle, African Fish Eagle and there are many other mammals: Bushbuck, the occasional Crowned Eagle. Bat Hawks

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 37 BIODIVERSITY

Bird species have been recorded in the sanctuary most of which are resident; however numerous migrants and nomadic species also pass through. have nested close by and hunt in the twilight. winged and Green-headed. Like all of East African Wood Owl, Barn Owl and Verreaux’s Africa, dawn and dusk are special times when TOP Eagle Owl are all seen here and heard at night. a chorus of Rüppell’s and Cape Robin-Chats White-starred Robins Hamerkop and Giant Kingfisher frequent fills the air, to be replaced later by the liquid are especially vocal in the Gogo River and a small dam near our serenade of the Montane Nightjar. the forested parts of home. Crowned Crane, Hadada, Sacred Knowing one’s home environment is pure the Giraffe Sanctuary. Ibis, Cattle Egret, Black-headed Heron and joy. This unique haven in Langata deserves Grey Heron are all seen flying over. Scaly appreciation and I have only begun to share BELOW Francolin forage the forest floor with Lemon what an extraordinary privilege it has been to Cover of the Wildflowers of the and Tambourine Doves and Emerald- witness this ecosystem. Giraffe Sanctuary spotted Wood-Dove. Hartlaub’s Turacos are publication. numerous, Narina’s Trogon is a treat to see, Silvery-cheeked Hornbills occasionally visit. ABIGAIL CHURCH has a degree in Geology from UCL, and a Ph.D. Snowy and Spot-flanked Barbets are common in Igneous Petrology from the as are Yellow-rumped Tinkerbirds. Natural History Museum, London. Cardinal and Brown-backed Woodpeckers, Emerald Cuckoos, Violet-backed Starlings are often seen in the higher parts of the sanctuary. Garden birds include Red-billed Firefinch, Streaky Seedeater, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Purple Grenadier, Common Bulbul, Village Indigbird and Bronze Mannikin. Cabanis’s and Yellow-whiskered Greenbuls skulk in the shady areas of the forest along with one of our most beautiful and musical residents; the White-starred Robin. Flycatchers include the African Paradise, friendly White-eyed Slaty and the Black- throated Wattle-eye. Yellow-breasted and Black-collared Apalis as well as Grey- capped Warblers are often seen around the house. Holub’s Golden, Baglafecht, Village, Wildflowers of the Giraffe Sanctuary, Nairobi is available in Spectacled and Grosbeak Weavers are all paperback. To order from the author at 1,500 Kenyan shillings common. Lesser Striped and Red-rumped email: [email protected] Swallows, Black Saw-wings, Rock and Plain Martins and African Palm Swifts all feed Information on next events at the AFEW Giraffe Centre can be busily over the vleis. found on: www.giraffecentre.org. Common Fiscals, Tropical Boubous and The Social Media links for AFEW Giraffe Centre: Sulphur-breasted Bushshrikes are all seen frequently; Isabelline, Red-backed and Lesser https://www.facebook.com/African-Fund-for- Grey Shrikes migrate through. Red-billed Endangered-Wildlife-K-Ltd-Giraffe-Centre Oxpeckers travel with the giraffe frequently https://twitter.com/GiraffeCenter giving away their location. Sunbirds include the Bronze, Amethyst, Variable, Collared, https://www.instagram.com/giraffecentre Scarlet-chested and the occasional Golden-

3838 || OCTOBEROCTOBER -- DECEMBERDECEMBER 20202020 BIODIVERSITY

ORNITHOLOGY Oxpeckers -Saints or Sinners? It is difficult to know whether a bird eating a blood-swollen tick is after the blood or the tick tissue, but the oxpeckers’ love of both cannot be denied.

back of a large herbivore, where apparently BELOW both courtship and copulation also take place. The oxpeckers are A 1982 report from Hwange National Park in endemic to sub- Saharan Africa, irds often take lifts on the back of Zimbabwe describes five oxpeckers observed where they occur in other animals, usually the better actually roosting on the back of a kudu, most open habitats. to hawk insects disturbed by although conventional wisdom has it that They are absent from their hosts’ progress through the oxpeckers usually sleep in tree cavities. the driest deserts Bgrass. Carmine Bee-eaters are frequently Most observers focus on feeding behaviour, and the rainforests. photographed riding on Kori Bustards, noisy and it would be difficult to improve on Their distribution flocks of Piapiacs perch on elephants in the Vernon van Someren’s description in A Bird is restricted by the presence of their Ugandan national parks, while Common Watcher in Kenya: ‘Oxpeckers are really preferred prey, Drongos can be equally opportunistic. rather unpleasant birds to watch feeding; specific species of Cattle Egrets and Wattled Starlings also they have the persistence of a swarm of [flies] ticks, and the animal hunt from the back of an animal, especially round a piece of meat. They slip and slide all hosts of those ticks. in longer grass when it is not easy for them over an animal’s hide, often keeping to the to follow in its footsteps. These birds are side away from the observer, and cling closely all using the animal as a beater to flush out to the hair with their long sharp claws. The their food. However, for oxpeckers the host beak is held provides the food, sometimes even is the food. parallel Any visitor to one of Africa’s great game to the parks is likely to encounter an oxpecker, with one or other species – sometimes both – occurring through much of the sub-Saharan savanna. At one time included amongst starlings, the Red-billed and Yellow-billed are now deemed different enough from all other birds to be the only members of the genus Buphagus, which itself constitutes a family. The colour of the bill may be difficult to spot, not least because the Yellow-billed also has a red bill tip.And when alarmed by approaching humans, both species are inclined to scrabble over to the far flank of their host, and so out of sight. If the bird is flying, the easiest way to distinguish between the two species is by the pale rump of the Yellow-billed. In general, they have similar habits, differing little in diet, host preference or tree- hole nest sites. However, Yellow-billed prefer thinner-furred animals, particularly buffalo, while Red-billed are more at home on those like giraffes, with thicker hairs on their hides. Otherwise, respective habits give little indication of which of the two is crawling over the

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 39 While cattle seemed to cope with the TOP These are serious charges presence of oxpeckers, the birds had a very Oxpeckers feed on negative impact on softer-skinned donkeys. ticks, flies, lice and against oxpeckers: that worms extracted Writing about nineteenth century Uganda, they are sinner rather than from the fur of cattle, Frederick Jackson described how ‘to pack- buffalos, rhinos, saint, that it is less the ticks donkeys and mules with a sore back ... [the giraffes and large they seek, than the host’s Red-billed] is one of the greatest curses. In antelopes. Despite blood, even flesh – after the old caravan days, along the road between removing pests, all, Buphaga (their generic Teita and Mumias, the number of donkeys oxpeckers are known rendered unfit for service, the majority of as parasites because name) means ‘beef-eating’. they also feed on the which died, entirely through the attentions blood of their hosts. of this bird ...must have amounted to many skin, and they wield it in a scissoring motion hundreds. The least little abrasion on the skin, from side to side through the hair, two or when detected by one of these pests, was at three sweeps being made in one area before once pecked into a ghastly sore.’ moving jerkily off to try elsewhere.’ In his 1959 Pirates and Predators, Richard Someren could have added that the birds Meinertzhagen also has plenty to say about also use their tail to help cling to their host’s oxpeckers, including how ‘donkeys resent hide, as does a woodpecker on a tree. them and have been seen to roll or run under Over time, oxpeckers have evolved bushes to rid themselves of the birds’. along with their natural hosts, and These are serious charges against only comparatively recently, at least in oxpeckers: that they are sinner rather than evolutionary terms, have domestic animals saint, that it is less the ticks they seek, become available to them. Before the than the host’s blood, even flesh – after nineteenth century, the large herds of cattle all, Buphaga (their generic name) means Number of provided ideal feeding grounds, and their ‘beef-eating’. Meinertzhagen recorded the oxpeckers African owners generally regarded the birds in birds visiting slaughterhouses in Kenya species in the world. Yellow- a positive light for helping control unwanted and Somaliland to feed off blood from billed oxpecker ticks. However, newly arrived European freshly-flayed hides; and during an oxpecker (Buphagus farmers could not afford the loss of any reintroduction programme in South Africa, africanus) Red-billed animals to tick-borne disease, and so they donkey hosts were spared the aggressive oxpecker resorted to chemical control. For oxpeckers, attentions of the birds by a tempting counter- (Buphagus this not only reduced their food supply, but attraction – blood from recently slaughtered erythrorynchus). also proved toxic. animals, treated with an anticoagulant.

40 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 BIODIVERSITY

describes how he found a total of 2,291 blood-sucking ticks in 55 out of 58 oxpecker stomachs that he examined from birds taken in Amani in eastern Tanzania. Certainly there were also various fly larvae, mites and probably also ear wax (particularly from buffalo) in the birds' stomachs but Moreau's findings provide strong evidence to support their preference for ticks, and that is the wisdom that prevails today. There is another dimension to oxpecker behaviour, and that is one of ‘watchbird’ or alarm sounder, and regardless of whether the bird has eaten ticks or drunk blood straight from the animal, this other role seems of undoubted benefit to the host. So long as humans relied on hunting down their food, the birds must have been regarded as nothing but pests, given their habit of issuing loud hissing alarm calls as a warning of impending danger, before the flock’s taking off. More recently, many hunters for sport rather than sustenance have likewise found the presence of the birds favours the chances of the hunted rather than the hunt. However, Meinertzhagen, who shot more than his share of game, was not one of these. He felt that the presence of oxpeckers lulled the animals into a sense of security – that they became ‘conscious of an extra protection when accompanied by Buphagus. A rhinoceros is much more alert when without Buphagus than when they accompany him.’ He found this might actually favour the hunter who, with his target’s natural caution TOP It is difficult to know whether a bird eating dulled by the oxpecker’s presence, could Oxpeckers nest in a blood-swollen tick is after the blood or the sometimes get much closer than he otherwise holes, usually in trees tick tissue, but the oxpeckers’ love of both would have done. but sometimes in cannot be denied. Evidence for their picking David Livingstone was fascinated by the other types of cavity, natural history of the areas through which he including holes in away at existing wounds, especially in drier walls. The nests are times when ticks are less abundant, seems trekked, so let him have the last word on the lined with grasses overwhelming, although to what extent they oxpecker's role as a sentinel, taken from his and often with hair actually open new wounds in an animal’s hide 1858 Missionary Travels. “This bird cannot plucked from their is less certain; if this were the case one would be said to depend entirely on the insects on hosts and even expect to see them generally giving attention [the rhinoceros] for its hard hairless skin is livestock such as protection against all except a few spotted sheep. to thinner-skinned game and there is no proof that they do so. ticks; and while the buffalo is alarmed by Jackson was convinced that ‘beyond all the sudden flying up of its sentinel, the doubt the Oxpecker's favourite food, when rhinoceros, not having keen sight, but an it had a chance of obtaining it, is blood and acute ear, is warned by the cry of its associate, meat, the latter being pecked away in minute the Buphaga africana.” particles’. Having examined the crops of several birds collected while they were feeding This article is adapted from Rupert Watson's on both rhino and cattle hides, he became recent book, Peacocks and Picathartes, convinced that ‘ticks, if at all, only form an reviewed on page 52. infinitesimal portion of its food.’ However, when W L Sclater came to edit RUPERT WATSON is an advocate, Jackson’s work after the latter's death he mediator, naturalist and writer and was able to refer to the researches of R.E. a frequent contributor to Swara Moreau published in the 1933 Bulletin of magazine. Entomological Research. Here, Moreau

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 41 PADDOCK DIARIES Bats in my bedroom the bathroom, they would vacate and leave through the bedroom window, but it wasn’t long before they would was surprised when a Large- just fly into the bedroom, hang eared Slit-faced Bat (Nycteris themselves from the ceiling and wait. macrotis) spent the day Before I had crossed the threshold hanging up by the shower in they had flown over my head back to Imy bathroom some weeks ago. In their favourite resting place. the ensuing days, it would come back This means these bats do not use during the late evening and spend their daytime roost during the darkest time in the bathroom and flying hours, but have additional places they around the bedroom. Then there were regularly rest at, during the course of two every evening and, after a few the night. All through the night, they weeks, up to five. are flying in and out of the bedroom That gave me a unique opportunity window to feed, returning to the to see a side of bat-life that few bathroom, then before dawn, they all researchers have ever witnessed. It disappear. This leads me to believe made me realise that their lives are other bats are leaving roosts, and more complex than merely roost- have places they return to regularly feed-roost. They are more complex that is not their main roost. I have not One of the three times a bat has stayed than I ever gave them credit for. heard of this before. all day instead of leaving before dawn. Whilst I can hear birds, including They are not put off by the room high-frequency bird song , strangely, being lighted, not only arriving I have not heard anything resembling from the dark into a completely lit head forward and plucked it neatly a sonic call from the bats, and yet room and heading for the bathroom out of the recess taking it back into they must be using it to navigate whether it too is lit or not. Although the bathroom to eat. around the room in the dark. I might the first order is to go into the There are a couple of questions have lost their frequency in my bathroom for a short while, they here, if it saw the moth from more hearing capabilities. emerge and fly around my bedroom than five metres away that is There are two noises I hear clearly sometimes singly or as a pair. They unusually sharp for a bat. More likely every night. The first is their frequent are adept are taking insects off the it found it by echolocation, however flapping, yet I can watch them flying wall, and seem happy to fly around this is even more remarkable when around the room and there is no the strip light to chase insects the signals are received of three flapping noise. They are both rapid attracted to it. On one evening a converging planes, what messages is and skilful fliers, executing sharp bat came out of the bathroom, and its brain receiving that can interpret twist turns and sudden change of made a bee-line for a moth right in this? Even more so with locating a direction, but all in silence. This the recess where the ceiling meets small nearly flat and stationary object makes me think that flapping is two right-angle sides of the wall. at the apex of this angled confusion... communication between individuals. So the three angles that make this yet it had no trouble. In pairs they fly The second noise is a sharp crack. corner recess all taper to the point around the room in a predominately This is usually 1-3 but can be where all three planes meet. It was clockwise direction. But this is not anything up to six successive cracks. a small moth and lying still and flat just to catch insects, it is a flight I am not sure how this is created. The in this corner. The bat flew the five display that they perform. One very sound is like lip-smacking and yet it metres across the room towards the closely following the leader, in which might not be anything to do with a still, small and flat moth. To obtain they perform dips in the flight path, vocalisation. a better perspective of what I am and stalling almost to a hover. This I had believed that once it got dark, trying to relate, look up and see what appears to parallel a birds display the bats would leave their daytime the corner of the ceiling looks like. flight, and there is no vocalisation roost for feeding, then return before Imagine a moth right in the corner, during this regular event. it got light. The usual routine is that and you will appreciate how all three In the evening, I work on the they first arrive around 7.30 pm, converging angles create a problem computer with a mosquito net sometimes earlier if it is overcast, and for something flying to catch anything covering me. The computer glow sometimes later. They came straight in that recess. The bat flew straight attracts insects. Whilst I am working in through the window and made to the moth and when it reached it, it and after I have closed the computer for the bathroom where they would hovered with wings slapping against down, the bats come to take insects hang from the ceiling. If I went into the walls and ceiling, stretched its from the net. So they are doing this

42 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 PADDOCK DIARIES

in the dark. However, this is not by sight but must be by echolocation that I cannot hear. Logically you would think that most of the ultrasound emitted must actually penetrate the net and not bounce back, and only the fibres themselves would provide the echo. This means that the picture it builds in its brain is tuned to extreme detail, and it must be perceiving the exact image of the net, as it is able to pluck insects off without colliding with the net. I it is so close that I can feel the air movement created by their wings. In the morning, they leave plenty of signs in the bathroom, requiring a cleanup. Many moth wings are strewn on the floor, suggesting that they were bringing in takeaways from outside to eat in the bathroom. Then the floor was dusted with the wings of flying long-horned grasshoppers, and these must have all come from outside. Being a chiropteran neophyte, I thought it essential to have a noted A pair of bats (circled) wait patiently outside the bedroom. bat expert in bats read through my report. I was fortunate to have the guidance of Meredith Happold, a world-renowned expert on this “You will not be able to hear the echolocation calls family. Her work in our region can be of any nycterids because they are ‘whispering seen in the seven-volume “Mammals bats’ whose calls are of very low intensity;” of Africa,” especially where she and Meredith explained. her husband produced Volume 4 Hedgehogs, Shrews and Bats. She commented on my observations. including Nycteris spp. have both was what one would expect from The reason I never heard any sonar day-roosts (where they sleep or go a scientist enamoured with their pulses is nycteris belongs to a group into torpor) and night-roosts where studies: “I want to be reincarnated as labelled as “Whispering Bats”. they rest during the night after bouts a bat, so I could fully understand how “You will not be able to hear the of feeding. Some bats, including they manage to ‘see’ the world with echolocation calls of any nycterids Nycteris, also have perches from sound instead of light…. Professor because they are ‘whispering bats’ which they search for food before Mohres discovered that bats, whose calls are of very low intensity;” flying to attack the food. And bats, which emit calls mostly of constant Meredith explained. “We could not including Nycteris, which do not frequency, use Doppler-shifted echos pick them up with our ‘Anabat’ bat eat on the wing, take their food to to locate insects fluttering their wings. detector even when the detector was perches or night roosts to eat it. It To prove this, he set up two long very close to the bats.” would be great if you could collect parallel rows of microphones and With regard to the wing-cracking the wings and other remains of the trained his bats to fly, on command, that I put down to communication insects your bats eat, at regular in a straight line midway between the between individuals: “Your intervals, and then find someone to two rows of microphones.” observations of the audible sounds identify what the bats are eating.” I know these interesting your bats make is interesting and, The notes on the impressive housemates have much more to as far as I know, not published. flying skills prompted this response: share. Vocalisations audible to humans “Nycterids have very broad wings and have been noted in Nycteris thebaica very low wing-loading, so it takes a and perhaps other species. They are lot of energy for them to fly. This is probably used in communication - not why they must spend most of the time BRIAN FINCH is the echolocation.” perching.” author of the sounds That these bats have a day roost component of the recent In my marvelling at what detailed Birds of East Africa elsewhere, and I provide a night interpretation the brain is supplying application available on roost: “A lot of species of bats, from echolocation, her comment the iTunes Library.

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 43 PORTFOLIO

printed. The book contains few 2007 he realized this was not enough. colour photographs, but 180 pages He gave up his job to set up a small dominated by black and white semi-permanent tent on the banks of his October, a magnificent images. Over 400 people pledged to the Talek River in the Maasai Mara. book will debut, featuring help bring this project to life. The Every morning he left his the photography of Federico online campaign achieved 348 per tent before dawn to look for Veronesi. That the project cent of its goal. lions, leopards, and cheetahs, Tfound funding during a pandemic is Born in Milan in 1975, Veronesi photographing their lives through the partly a credit to Margot Raggett’s was raised in a family of keen years. In 2009 he encountered the Remembering Wildlife initiative, as photographers and naturalists, most elusive of Africa’s wild felines, featured in a profile in the January- taking his first safari to Kenya with the caracal. He documented the life March 2019 issue of Swara. Veronesi his family at the age of six. Using a of two different females and their contributed to that series, with one small Polaroid camera, something young. Some of these images and of his photos featured on the cover of inside told him that he had found his stories were captured in his first book Remembering Elephants, another on place in the world. He cried when the published in 2015. Photographer the cover of Remembering Lions, and family left Kenya to return to Italy. Art Wolfe wrote, “Sometimes I come applied the same online appeal and By the age of 13, he had his first SLR across a book that just blows me advance book sales to his new book, camera, an old Minolta inherited away. Light and Dust by Federico called One Life. from his grandfather. Veronesi does just that. At 26 His Kickstarter campaign recruited After completing university studies Federico relocated to Kenya and has pledges for copies of the book, prints, in 2002, he moved to Nairobi. been photographing there intensively tutoring sessions in photography, Initially he worked for a development ever since. and private safaris with him as agency, traveling to remote parts “His book is a testament to what guide. Fifty limited editions of One of Kenya and Somalia, but went on great photographers can do when Life sold out before the book was wildlife safaris as often as possible. In they have a true passion and focus

44 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 PORTFOLIO

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 45 46 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 ON SAFARI

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 47 ON SAFARI

on a particular part of the world.” It the personality of each animal;” his methods; guests focus on the is hard to find and only a few copies Veronesi wrote; “The intensity in behaviour of individual species, remain unsold. their eyes can reflect deep emotions spending time with specific animals. Then he ventured south to for the viewer.” During his years in the Maasai Mara, Tanzania, and found another corner Elephants became one of his he followed closely the life of the of heaven in the Serengeti, where primary subjects. In Amboseli in leopard Olive and her seven offspring, rocky outcrops known as kopjes rise 2010 encountered one Africa’s last and the female caracal and her four from the grasslands in magnificent big tuskers, a bull known as Tim. cubs in three different litters. “I was shapes and forms. The Dutch word (See Cynthia Moss’s tribute to Tim in continually delighted with Federico’s means “little head” but he describes the April-June 2020 issue of Swara.) expertise, passion, artistry, warmth, them as “islands of rocks in a sea of Veronesi photographed Tim and and care;” said one client; “I can grass.” He loves photographing lions other elephants in Amboseli, and see why so much of his business is in this setting, and two particular these black and white works became repeating clients—for the serious photographs evoked strong feelings. some of his most successful fine-art wildlife photographer, it simply can’t Photographing a lion cub on a kopje, prints. His limited-edition prints are get any better.” he recognised the background to sought after by collectors worldwide, “I love Federico Veronesi’s work,” remember that he had photographed and are available through select wrote Margot Raggett; “Its intensity a mature male lion there previously. galleries in Europe. His photos have is a reflection of the man himself. Thinking this might be the cub’s featured in previous issues of Swara He cares deeply about wildlife and father, he reflected on the recent and BBC Wildlife. that shines through in his stunning birth of his own son, and the idea Contributing to wildlife imagery.” of One Life was born. “Through this conservation is a priority, and his journey we have an opportunity to work has supported the East African The book One Life released on encounter different animals,” he said, Wildlife Society (which publishes October 31st will be available for “but we all share the same feelings this journal,) the African Wildlife purchase from his website: and emotions,” he said; “but we all Foundation, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, www.federicoveronesi.com share the same planet.” Cheetah Conservation Fund, the Backlight or dramatic lighting Remembering Wildlife initiative, and became his trademark style. His most recently, African Parks. DELTA WILLIS is an decision to shoot photographs in A member of the Kenya author and photographer black and white adds to the mood of Professional Safari Guides who promoted Alan & an image. “In the play between light, Association (KPSGA, Bronze Level) Joan Root films. dust, mist, there is a key to convey Veronesi photo safaris follow

48 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 ADVENTURE Mahale: A Great Ape Escape It is immediately obvious that you are in very remote location with no roads nearby and only mountains and chimps for company.

intrigued as to why the Japanese researching TOP LEFT chimps in Mahale were getting no press. Trekking through the Chimpanzee research in the Mahale forest in pursuit of chimps. ahale; the mere word conjures Mountains began in 1965. Conservation up mystery, I thought as efforts and the financial support of the TOP MIDDLE I prepared for my visit to Japanese government led to the designation A Greystoke dressing Greystoke Camp in the Mahale of Mahale as a national park in 1985. room. MMountains, southwest Tanzania. It’s a bit The Mahale project is the second-longest of a trek to get here; three hours in a light continuous field study of chimps after Jane TOP RIGHT Sunlight bathing the aircraft with a fuel stop en route, followed Goodall’s initiative begun in 1960. Purcell bedroom. by a 90 minute voyage by dhow across Lake described the setting as a “lost world” and Tanganyika, (Africa’s deepest lake) but it is so happily, in many ways it still is. As soon as BELOW LEFT worth the journey. you arrive, it is immediately obvious that you The iconic view of As I stepped off the dhow, to be greeted by are in very remote location with no roads Greystoke from the friendly, smiling faces of the Greystoke nearby and only mountains and chimps for the lake. team, I felt as if I had been here before. company. In fact, Purcell chose the campsite BELOW RIGHT Perhaps this is because as humans, our because it was 60 miles from the nearest road, 2 Deck chairs and roots were discovered on this continent. The and very close to the Congo. In the 1,613km views for days. Mahale Mountains are home to our closest of Mahale Mountains there are still no roads. relative, the chimpanzee. Greystoke is named Visitors to Greystoke are responsible after the fictional character in Tarzan. travellers, who love an adventure, looking to The site of the camp was chosen by Roland do something off the beaten track and away Purcell, one of the founders of Nomad from crowded safari routes. “The air is scented Tanzania, back in the 1988. Having worked with jasmine, the forest rich, the water of the with Diane Fossey’s gorillas, Purcell had lake gin-clear and slightly chilled,” Purcell become fascinated by primates and was reflected upon his discovery: “If I dare put an

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 49 ON SAFARI

The key activity here is trekking to find the chimps, seeing eye to eye with one of our closest relatives. imprint on this paradise, I had better get it offered in the morning. A variety of salads LEFT right.” The original camp was a Moorish style and assorted kebabs, frittatas and pastas are In the company of tent and the current thatched structure is not served at lunch. Afternoon tea is available as great apes. dissimilar in design. Set at the back of a small are "bitings"; snacks before the three-course TOP RIGHT stretch of white sandy beach, with the Mahale dinners. Masks are Mountains rising high directly behind, it is an I am grateful for the promise of a good compulsory when impressive, yet simple castaway camp. hike tomorrow to work off some of this visiting chimps. The six A frame chalets are equally simple in deliciousness. style, built from dhow wood and set discreetly The key activity here is trekking to find BELOW RIGHT amongst the trees on the edge of the beach. the chimps, seeing eye to eye with one of our Relaxed, happy and lounging in the Each offers barefoot luxury at its best; an en closest relatives. Greystoke is one of only undergrowth. suite shower and flush loo, as well as a chill out a handful of places in the world where one area upstairs where guests can relax. can enjoy a very close encounter with these Meals are taken in the main mess or wonderful apes. The experience is made even on the beach under the stars and guests more interesting by the team of guides here, tend to gather for a pre-dinner drink in who having been amongst these chimps for open-air bar, set on the rocks overlooking years, know them better than most of us know the extraordinarily clear waters of Lake some of our own family members. Tanganyika. Food is freshly made and simply When the Japanese researchers arrived delicious. I never cease to be amazed by in Mahale in the 1962 they were welcomed the incredibly high standard of meals that by the Tongwe, local people with origins in are produced from remote African camp the Democratic Republic of Congo, but who kitchens and the chef at Greystoke proves came to Tanzania centuries ago. The Tongwe his to be no exception. English breakfasts, have lived peacefully with the chimpanzees homemade muesli and tropical fruits are and never hunted them as they believed

50 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 ON SAFARI

their ancestors lived on in the chimps. The Japanese were very impressed by the Tongwe people and their knowledge of the chimpanzees. So they worked together on habituating the chimpanzees. The whereabouts of the chimps are radioed to camp, and only six guests at a time are escorted to see them. As you venture close to them, you are requested to don a mask, which is for their protection more than yours. You cannot use a camera flash so adjust your settings for low light if need be. An hour is the maximum time that may be spent with the chimps. The guides even have a language with which they communicate with the chimps although I can attest to the fact that they understand us. I remarked that one of the males looked a bit grumpy; by way of a response, I had a small branch chucked my way with remarkable to see how life is in such a remote part of the TOP A thorough guide accuracy. Clearly, my comment was not world. Guests generally stay for three or four briefing in progress. appreciated! nights but I felt I could have stayed an age. Trekking the chimps is not for sissys and I don’t believe Purcell had any idea, when you need to be reasonably fit. In the latter he hit upon this site for his camp, what a months of the year, they are generally found favour he was doing those of us who have close to the lake shore but at other times, been to experience Greystoke Mahale, they are higher up the mountains, foraging including Bill Gates and Harrison Ford. This for food, so it can be a long and quite hard could easily be combined with other Nomad walk. Additionally there is a minimum age destinations in Tanzania, including Ruaha or restriction of 12 (I was pleased to discover no Selous. upper age limit) and if you are sick, you will not be allowed to trek. Chimps, like gorillas SANDY WOOD was born in Kenya, are very vulnerable to human diseases; a dose and travels widely as CEO of Pulse of flu can be fatal to them. Africa based in Johannesburg. Trekking is generally done in the mornings, leaving the afternoons free for other activities. Greystoke lends itself to the gentle of art of doing nothing. No technological influences such as WiFi or cell phone service here to distract you; just Mother Nature at her best. If you have to trek further into the When to go mountains to find the chimps, you may be During the wet season, from November until May, the looking for something a bit more relaxing to chimpanzees spend much of their time in the trees and can do next. You have plenty of choices. I loved be difficult to find. In the dry season, June to October, the the late afternoon sail on the dhow to do undergrowth is less dense and the chimps frequently come a spot of birding, or catch a glimpse of the down near the main lodge to feed. Entry fees at Mahale Colobus monkeys followed by a refreshing Mountains Park are $80 per adult per day. There are no deep water swim in the lake. Kayaking is also additional advance permit fees as happens with gorilla treks. available and guests can visit the local village

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 51 ON SAFARI

ADVENTURE To Walk with Camels: On Soysambu Conservancy We were serenaded by the bray of zebra and a percussion of birds and insects, all drowned periodically by a resounding repertoire of camel noises.

bush loo and portable washbasin. We were overlooking the area of Soysambu, which is a Ramsar site, find it hard to put my finger an Important Bird Area, and part on the exact reasons it is so of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, therapeutic to do a walking which includes Lake Elmenteita safari with camels. Laughter, The conservancy protects a diverse Ithey say, is medicine, and there is range of habitats and a wealth of plenty of that thanks to these comical flora and fauna. Mammal species four-legged porters, who bellow, that depend on Soysambu include gurgle, rumble, spit and contort their threatened Rothschild’s giraffe, faces into expressions that would Colobus monkeys, Side-striped inspire even Mr Bean. jackal, Striped hyena, Aardvark Or perhaps it is the peace of and Spring hare, while some of its walking in harmony with these more unusual antelope include the huge beasts as their handlers sing Bohor and Mountain (Chandler’s) ancient songs, onomatopoetic words reedbuck, Steinbuck (or Steenbok) Resting in the evening. that invoke poetry, and conjure and Klipspringer. up images of inhospitable places Our camels were from Bobong with desert, canyons, caverns Ranch, north of Rumuruti, owned the distance, framed by the eastern and curiously shaped mountains. by John and Amanda Perrot, in the walls of the Great Rift Valley, their Fortunately, on this occasion, we camel safari business since 1982. dramatic steps rising indigo on the weren’t facing such daunting terrain They are also willing to accompany near horizon. on our short expedition on Soysambu you on a fully-catered and tailored Our Land Rover had long departed Conservancy. camel safari, but on this occasion, and our modes of transport were We met our team of four handlers my son and I opted for a simpler now ready, see-sawing to their feet, beneath a fever tree (Vachellia self-catering option, our needs making throaty protests. Rasta, we xanthophloea) in the early afternoon. being pretty basic. For us, it was soon learned, was the big, noisy, Everything was set up for lunch; enough to nibble at biscuits and sip stroppy guy, while Macharia, the tables, chairs, even wine glasses, water while admiring the views of leader, was the one with a range of and (at a discreet distance) a Lake Elmenteita, shining blue in jaw-wrenching toothy grins.

The soda flats of Lake Elmenteita.

52 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 ON SAFARI

‘Follow Barabara,’ announced our guide as we set off, referring not to the road (there wasn’t one) but to his name. We could hear the snorting of Impala, which soon came into view, unconcerned by us as the two males sparred. Barabara proved to be well-versed with the sights, sounds and spoors in this wild kingdom where we were mere trespassers. We’d been assured there would be no need for alarm if we encountered lions. The camels would stay close to us. Big cats and buffalo could be deterred if necessary by Hassan with his whip, fashioned out of stick and rope, demonstrated with great flair, its cracking as loud as gunshots; enough to make any and Lesser Flamingos, Spoonbills, TOP lone bull run a mile. But there was no Great-white Pelicans, Black-winged Adjacent to Lake Nakuru National Park, need for such dramas as we strode Stilts, Pied Avocets and waders that the Soysambu Conservancy is home to one of the largest populations of through the thickets of Vachellia fed along the shores. I rode a camel Rothschild's Giraffe in Kenya. seyal and sharp scented Leleshwa for a while, less for comfort and more (Tarchonanthus camphoratus), for the views, which were breath- emerging onto the plains below to taking, the sun gilding the hill known join large herds of Burchell’s zebra, as Delamere’s nose, harking back to How to get to Soysambu Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles, and rd the 3 Baron Delamere who leased The main entrance to Soysambu in the distance, three Cape buffalo, all th this land at the beginning of the 20 is 141km from Nairobi, grazing peacefully. We kept up a good Century. northwest along the A104 camel pace, getting into their rhythm, Our camp was quickly set up in the highway to Nakuru. It’s worth pausing occasionally to drink water shade of a large Vachellia seyal and allowing up to 3 hours for the or look at an Augur Buzzard circling sheltered from the wind, offering us drive because of traffic, which above, admiring a playful Zebra foal, a glimpse of the pink-fringed lake. can be extremely heavy on and skirting a ridge partly encircled A herd of Defassa waterbuck stood Friday and Sunday evenings. by a large thicket of prehistoric- watching us. The men boiled water Details of how to get to your looking Euphorbia candelabrum. As for tea, laced with wood smoke. The starting point will be provided by we navigated another rocky ridge, camels moved away to browse, having Bobong Camels. the camels coaxed on by whistles been relieved of our luggage. and snatches of songs, Barabara After a very welcome hot shower (Check out the vlogs: Camel entertained us with his mimicking beneath the stars and our fire- Trekking on Soysambu Parts of bird calls. Amongst the many roasted dinner, we sat around our 1 and 2, on the Soysambu birds we spotted were three Ground campfire until we were ready to playlist of Mufasa Mike’s Hornbills, a pair of Crowned Crane, sleep in comfortable camp beds. I YouTube channel: https://bit. a Red-fronted Tinkerbird and a Red- fell asleep inhaling the comforting ly/2SO7KHm) faced Crombec. wafts of camel sweat and smoke, We emerged onto dusty soda waking periodically to the muttering Box 5, Rumuruti 20321 flats, breathing in the slightly rotten of flamingos or the occasional Spotted Tel: 254 735 243073 smell of the lake’s alkaline waters. hyaena yip. Whatsapp Tiny Kirk’s dik-dik peered out of As we walked out from our camp 254 715 437492/722 936177 the scrub and giant Eland moved after an early breakfast, a chilly July www.bobongcamels.com away to our left. These flats gave the wind saw us wrapped in shukas. lake its Maasai name – ol muteita, There were footprints of Hyaena and mispronounced in Colonial times Lion on the soda flats and a Buffalo and thus named Elmenteita. There snorted from the nearby sedge grass, have been interesting bird sightings startling us before he retreated. The here during the migration season, waterfowl continued to feed calmly including a Greater-spotted Eagle and I felt reluctant to walk out from JULIET BARNES, a writer and a Russian Peregrine, but for this magical world without mod cons. and conservationist, has lived on Soysambu for 21 now, these birds having returned One into which we’d slipped so easily. north, we were content with a Long- years. crested Eagle, a great many Greater

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 53 BOOK REVIEW

Following the introduction, there is a chapter that is fully dedicated to the 24 bird families endemic to Africa. Amongst these are several of the continent’s most iconic birds like the Shoebill, Secretarybird, Turacos and Picathartes. Then comes a chapter on the near-endemic bird families, with the majority of their species in Africa. Most of these families probably evolved in Africa and have only recently radiated outwards - like cisticolas, sandgrouse, honeyguides and weavers. The following chapter covers six special species belonging to widespread families, but which have themselves come to epitomize Africa. With Africa hosting the highest number of raptor species of any continent, I was glad to see two raptors finally featured here - Bateleur and Fish Eagle. The author avoids dwelling too much on conservation problems, choosing instead to highlight the wonder of the birds themselves and what makes them unique, fascinating and worth protecting as part of Africa’s natural heritage. He does however include a chapter on “Conservation and Celebration” covering initiatives such as BirdLife International’s Important Bird Areas network, Beesley’s Lark Conservation Program and citizen science projects like the Kenya Bird Map. He raises some of the current concerns facing Africa’s birds, such as the decline in vulture populations, but is more focused on conservation success stories. The final chapter is a fascinating look into the history of ornithology in Africa, where Watson highlights key individuals who have inspired him and whose work he has drawn from to write this book. He includes several entertaining anecdotes about pioneering European naturalists in Africa his book has been nothing but a pure joy to read. and explains early research in interesting detail. Watson explains in the preface that it is about Short stories of several interesting early discoveries birds that are “quintessentially African”, and that are included, such as how Frederick Jackson’s Kenyan his aim is to expand the interest of the reader in assistant, Baraka, is to thank for revealing that the Pin- TAfrica’s birdlife by both informing and entertaining. tailed Whydah is a brood parasite. The focus is primarily on sub-Saharan Africa of which he It is a well-researched and enthralling book written in covers all the major regions without any bias in favour of language that the layman would find easy to understand, East Africa. Some of the birds featured are extremely rare, with little scientific jargon used. I cannot recommend or at least inaccessible to most birders, while others are it highly enough to anyone who has an interest in the common and widespread. What I particularly liked about avifauna of Africa. this book is that even common of birds are presented in a captivating light, with interesting and little-known facts Reviewed by Sidney Shema about them. I certainly learned something new about each Manager & Coordinator, of the featured birds. Kenya Bird Map Project The first chapter opens with an engaging and captivating introduction to the African continent’s zoogeographic regions, geography, vegetation and climate, as well as the The book is available on Amazon.com, or in history of its birds and their evolutionary origins. The Nairobi at Bookstop, Yaya Centre, Between author fully recognizes the complex and ever-changing the Lines, Village Market or from the author - nature of bird taxonomy, avoiding getting caught up in the [email protected] - 0722 237138 nuances of whether this or that bird is a subspecies of a full species. Instead, he chooses a single taxonomic authority as his reference point throughout the book. The book’s chapters blend well into each other.

5454 || OCTOBEROCTOBER -- DECEMBERDECEMBER 20202020 BOOK REVIEW

Besides the usual colds, digestive ailments and minor accidents, the book features significant conditions such as bronchitis, eye and ear infections, childhood ailments, and sexually transmitted diseases. Throughout, readers are advised to seek professional medical help for ‘red flag’ conditions, or illnesses showing specific symptoms or conditions that are not responding to herbal treatments. The information is well organised, easy to follow and presented in a practical style. There are colour-coded headings and symbols showing the age suitability of each plant treatment especially for babies and children. Recipes are described for homemade herbal brews, tinctures, infusions, compresses and ointments, with recommendations on how best to consume or apply them. Useful as well are the suggested dosage for infants, children and adults. The final section contains the index of over 127 plants with the Latin botanical terms and accompanying photographs. The plants are also named in English, Kiswahili and seven local languages, making it easy to look up a species from different angles. TICAH deliberately avoided some well-known but endangered medicinal plants. The roots of the mukombera (Mondia whitei) plant are believed to have aphrodisiac qualities and it is rapidly being consumed out of existence. The stem of Prunus Africana tree is used to treat prostate diseases both in traditional and modern medicine, but overharvesting for local use and export has left the species vulnerable in many parts of Africa. This is the second edition of Using Our Traditions. The here is good news for people interested in herbal first guide, published in 2006, was produced in response remedies and the medicinal plants of Kenya. to the HIV/AIDS pandemic and the need for affordable TICAH (Trust for Indigenous Culture and Health) nutrition to enhance immunity and the absorption of has published a book in this area called Using antiretroviral medication. It was during community Tour Traditions: A Herbal & Nutritional Guide for Kenyan outreach workshops and programmes with HIV positive Families. TICAH is a Kenya-based non-profit health people that the TICAH team began hearing about organisation that focuses on linking health, cultures and traditional therapies and health-supporting foods. With indigenous wisdom. this subsequent edition, there are new remedies and more Herbal treatments have long been viewed with suspicion topical ointments not previously captured. in modern Kenya, classified as anything from grandma Ironically, edition two comes in the wake of another potions to witchcraft. Nevertheless, the practice has insidious virus. “Knowledge about our bodies and our continued, albeit surreptitiously, particularly in rural areas food, about ways to strengthen our immune systems and and low-income urban communities. Attitudes are slowly prevent or manage disease…is just as important as it ever changing, especially among the middle class, as more was,” writes TICAH founder and executive director, Mary people develop an interest in healthy eating and organic Ann Burris, in the forward. foods. Tara Fitzgerald, community development and The four-part book begins with the chapter on Healthy communications specialist, wrote both books. She Living, covering general self-care, hygiene, the food collected all the plant information, recorded the traditional groups, kitchen pharmacy ingredients and growing herbs treatments and spent hours listening to people’s practical at home. experiences of dealing with general health issues. The The second chapter discusses the process of harvesting herbs and remedies come from different cultures across and preserving medicinal plants, with instructions on Kenya but much of the knowledge is cross-cultural. how to gather different plant parts and the best time for collecting. There is also cautionary note on harvesting in Reviewed by Kari Mutu a sustainable manner and avoiding plants from unclean places such as roadsides. The better part of the book is the third chapter entitled In Nairobi, the book is available in One Stop Conditions and Treatments. It reviews more than 60 Bookstore, Yaya Centre, Karen Provision Stores illness, named in both English and Kiswahili. A synopsis and Text Book Centre. You can also contact TICAH of each condition is given, including the causes, modes of direct to order: Tel. 0710 272175 - Mpesa Paybill transmission, herbal and nutritional therapies. Body map No: 994347; Account name: Guide images show diseases grouped according to parts of the anatomy, making for a quick visual reference.

OCTOBEROCTOBER -- DECEMBERDECEMBER 20202020 || 5555 FILM REVIEW

Kifaru is a 2019 documentary horns, prized as a purported remedy along with three other northern that follows the lives of two for cancer in Vietnam and a cure for white rhinos. It was hoped young Kenyan rhino caretakers high fever in China (despite the lack that Ol Pejeta would provide at the Ol Pejeta Conservancy in of scientific evidence of any medicinal a more natural habitat and Kenya. The film is in English and value). The film warns that at current better hormonal balance for the has Kiswahili subtitles. Kifaru poaching rates, all five rhino species animals to induce breeding. is the Kiswahili word for rhino. worldwide could disappear within the In the film, Jojo, wonders how James Mwenda and Joseph next decade. he can find hope in a hopeless Wachira (‘Jojo’) care for ‘Sudan,’ Secondly, it focuses on the human situation. His job is to take the last known male northern dimension of wildlife conservation care of Sudan who is struggling white rhinoceros in the world by sharing the stories of Kenyan to walk, incapacitated by ‘bed that died in March 2018 at age caregivers who lived with Sudan sores’. Already in his final years, of 45. for 10 months of every year, away Sudan’s death looms over Jojo The film is a portrayal of from their families. The film also and his other game wardens, Sudan’s life through the eyes explores the philosophical meaning who can only do their best to of his caregivers who observe of extinction. Something must have make him comfortable while that “the more he grows old, gone wrong for wild animals to guarding against poachers. the more it grows worrying.” require the care of humans. “[It] is a Even though it is The director, David Hambridge, burden given us by the world to save heartbreaking to witness focuses on the joys and sorrows what another man has destroyed,” the story of a subspecies of wildlife conservation through says Jojo. The other keeper, James becoming extinct, the film the eyes of these Kenyan rhino Mwenda, describes Sudan as his good simultaneously motivates caretakers. friend. viewers to help conserve the From an East African wildlife Kifaru depicts the life of Sudan, other rhino subspecies. Sudan perspective, Kifaru, which won captive northern white rhinoceros leaves behind a daughter Najin ‘Best Impact Film’ and multiple that lived at the Dvůr Králové Zoo and granddaughter Fatu --the audience awards, is important in the Czech Republic from 1975 to only two surviving females of for three reasons: 2009 and then relocated to Kenya the northern white rhinoceros First, it raises awareness for the rest of his life. In December subspecies. about the threat of extinction 2009, Sudan was moved to the Ol and the plight of rhinos. Rhinos Pejeta Conservancy for a “last chance Reviewed by Laura DeLuca are slaughtered solely for their to survive” breeding programme, and Alex Dudley

56 || OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 The Discoveries of Self-Taught Naturalist Antony Archer (1933-2020)

In 1957, Tony embarked on a British him Ariadne archeri, a striking Museum expedition to Angola during Nymphalid. It is currently known which he collected an unusual form of as Ariadne enotrea archeri. It’s ony Archer passed away the Angola Lark Mirafra angolensis. one of the Castor Butterflies. on 23rd February 2020, In 1958, Pat Hall (then Head of the In 1961, Tony Archer collected one week after his 87th British Museum’s Bird Room and a small Red-billed Oxpecker birthday. From a young leader of that 1957 expedition) named near Archer’s post (named after age,T my father had a passion for it Miafra angolensis antonii after the Sir Geoffrey Archer, no relation natural history, in particular collector, Antony Archer. of Tony’s) which he gave to ornithology. During this same expedition to John Williams for the Coryndon Archer was mentored by John Angola in 1957, he collected an Museum bird collection. This Williams (then ornithologist at interesting butterfly that he gave specimen was later described and Nairobi’s Coryndon Museum), to Bob Carcasson at the Coryndon named by G.R. Cunningham Van who taught him how to collect Museum, who later named it after Someren (then ornithologist at and prepare a study specimen.

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 57 TRIBUTE

llustration of Ariadne enotrea. the National Museums of Kenya) as Buphagus erythrorhuchus archeri, after the collector. Although the name remains, it is no longer considered a valid subspecies. Accompanying Tony Archer in the photo, taken during his early safari days, is In 1963 and from 1967 to 1969, Abakuna, his trusted gun bearer and life-long friend. Abakuna was a member of John Williams and Herbert the Watta people, immortalised in Major W. Robert Foran’s book “The Elephant Friedmann (Director of the Los Hunters of Lado”. Abakuna gave up his elephant hunting days to become Tony’s Angeles County Museum) organised gun-bearer and accompanied him on all his expeditions throughout Africa and even a series of expeditions to the western to Nepal. Ugandan forests where Tony headed up a team of collectors. During these expeditions, Tony collected birds subsequently described as a new programme managed to eliminate in the Bugoma, Bwamba, Kibale, subspecies named in his honor, over 80 per cent of the crows. Sadly, Malabigambo and Sango Bay forests, Genetta servalina archeri. due to political upheavals after 1995, creating some of the finest collections It was not until 2003 that servaline FINNIDA pulled out of Zanzibar and of birds which are currently housed genets were photographed in the programme collapsed. in the Los Angeles County Museum in groundwater forest and dry scrub Crow eradication on the Kenyan California. by camera traps at Jozani-Chawaka coast was successful into the He advised and led Carnegie Bay National Park for the first time. mid-1990s until interference by Museum expeditions to the The survival of the Servaline genet the government put a stop to the Impenetrable Forest in southwestern on the island parallels Tony’s interest programme. Archer is widely Uganda and the Budongo and Siba and study in other island species applauded for his efforts in this Forests in Bunyoro. There was no such as Aders duiker (Cephalophus field by all who remember what he place too far or too difficult for Tony adersi), which he researched for a achieved. He consulted on similar Archer. His many scientific safaris conservation management plan. He programmes in Djibouti, Mauritius included forests from Kakamega to was even involved in a dispiriting and Durban in South Africa. His the Arabuko, Cherangani Hills and quest for the Zanzibar leopard definitive paper ‘Control of the the Mau in Kenya among others. Tony (Panthera pardus adersi). In Kenya, Indian House Crow in Eastern Africa’ conducted ornithological expeditions Tony Archer’s enthusiasm for science presented at the 10th Pan-African in 1976 to Madagascar and the led him to study the distribution Ornithological Congress in Kampala, Comoro Islands at a time when and habitats of Roosevelt’s sable Uganda in 2000, laid the cornerstone avifauna was poorly documented antelopes. He also observed the least for all later House Crow control among Indian Ocean islands. known felid, the African Golden Cat programmes along the Kenya and Archer’s wildlife expertise was Caracal aurata on Mount Kenya. Tanzania coasts. all-embracing. Take for instance the For five years, from 1990 to My deepest thanks to Don Turner Zanzibar Servaline genet of Unguja 1995, Tony Archer led an incredibly and Brian Herne for information (Zanzibar) Island in the Tanzanian successful programme to eradicate included in this tribute. archipelago. Although known to the invasive and destructive Indian Zanzibaris, zoologists were unaware House Crows (Corvus splendens) on of its existence until 1995. When the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba, ALEX BELL, daughter Tony was working in Zanzibar on funded by FINNIDA (the Finnish of Tony Archer, is a the Indian House crow programme, International Development Agency) Landscape Architect and he acquired a dried genet skin and and the Commission of Lands CEO Ecoscapes Kenya skull at Kitogani village that was and Environment, Zanzibar. The Limited.

58 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 TSHIRTS KIDS TSHIRTS WATER BOTTLES

HOODIES MAASAI SHUKAS WITH FLEECE ECO BAGS

SAFARI HATS PEBBLE BAGS JUTE BAGS

Shop to support! East African Wild Life Society new designs now available. Don’t miss out! www.eawildlife.org

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020 | 59 Base Titanium’s Kwale Mine is Kenya’s first large-scale mining project and accounts for 65% of Kenya’s mineral sector. Mindful of the future land use, Base has heavily invested in rehabilitation and biodiversity conservation. Rehabilitation is only part of a broader post mining land use programme.

The Kwale Mine has: • Minimised any residual environmental impacts resulting from mining operations, • Utilised regular monitoring to assess rehabilitation success and established vegetation in rehabilitated areas, • Created and nurtured a biodiversity corridor to link the remnant patches of indigenous forest occurring within the mining lease to the existing Gongoni Forest Reserve, • Converted former silt traps into functional wetland areas with propagation and introduction of wetland vegetation such as sedges, reeds, water-liles and rushes, • Planted over 38,000 trees including over 7,000 trees of conservation significance and 1,800 critically endangered species.

basetitanium.com

60 | OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2020