Naturwissenschaftler Als Alpinisten
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Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left. -
The Confessions of Aleister Crowley
The Confessions of Aleister Crowley The Confessions of Aleister Crowley www.Empirical-Academy.com Forward "It seemed to me that my first duty was to prove to the world that I was not teaching Magick for money. I promised myself always to publish my books on an actual loss on the cost of production --- never to accept a farthing for any form of instruction, giving advice, or any other service whose performance depended on my magical attainments. I regarded myself as having sacrificed my career and my fortune for initiation, and that the reward was so stupendous that it made the price pitifully mean, save that, like the widow's mite, it was all I had. I was therefore the wealthiest man in the world, and the least I could do was to bestow the inestimable treasure upon my poverty-stricken fellow men. I made it also a point of absolute honour never to commit myself to any statement that I could not prove in the same sense as a chemist can prove the law of combining weights. Not only would I be careful to avoid deceiving people, but I would do all in my power to prevent them deceiving themselves. This meant my declaring war on the spiritualists and even the theosophists, though I agreed with much of Blavatsky's teachings, as uncompromisingly as I had done on Christianity." file:///C|/Documents and Settings/Doc/Desktop/venomous-magick.com/members/confess/pdf cover.htm (1 of 2) [10/4/2004 5:52:45 PM] The Confessions of Aleister Crowley CONTENTS PART ONE: Towards the Golden Dawn {29} Chapter: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically. -
One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 57-61) he fIrst attempt to ascend Mont Blanc in the twentieth centuryl was T made on Thursday, but without success. Even before the Pierre Pointue was reached the snow was found to be so deep that racquettes had to be used, while at the Grand Junction of the Glacier de Taconna progress was rendered very difficult from the same cause. On reaching Grands Mulets (10,007 feet), it was decided to give up the task of reaching the actual summit owing to the great depth of the snow and the intense cold, and signs ofwind. Moreover, one of the guides was suffering from frostbite. The party, consisting of Mr. Crofts and the guides Joseph Demarchi, Fran~ois Mugnier and Jules Monard spent the night at the Grands Mulets, and descended to Chamonix next morning. The severe conditions experienced by Mr Crofts' party on 17 January 1901 were prolonged by exceptionally cold winds which persisted for several weeks in many Alpine regions. Although little mountaineering was possi ble the fust ski ascents of two peaks were completed: on 30 March Henry Hoek and Ernst Schottelius climbed the Dammastock; and on 28 May Schottelius, accompanied by Friedrich Reichert, reached the summit of the Oberaarhorn. A period of fine weather which commenced in May prompted an early start to the climbing season and by the end of the fIrst week in June a number of successful expeditions had been completed. Throughout Switzerland glorious, warm weather is being experienced, and with it Alpine climbing has begun in real earnest. -
L E Gobe-Mouches
Martigny, lundi 13 avril 1936. 76me année No 44. LE CONFÉDÉRÉ ABONNEMENTS : ORGANE DES UBÊRAUX-RADICAUX VALAISANS SUISSE i Un an ... fr. 8.— PARAISSANT A MARTIGNY ANNONCES RÉCLAMES Avec ,.Bulletin officiel" fr. 12.50 la mm. ligna • le mm. ligna ÉTRANGER i Un an . fr. 16.- ou son espace 2 colonnes/si mm. Avec ..Bulletin officiel" fr. 21.— RÉDACTION. ADMINISTRATION ET ANNONCES : 8 et Canton 20 et (Expédition un* fols par samalna ensemble) 10 et Suisse 30 et Cwpti di Chèques postaux : Il c. 58 Avenue de la Gare IN/IARTIGNY Avenue des Acacias 10 et Etranger 30 et \ Avis mortuaires (2 coi.) 20 eet t | H Joindra 20 et. en timbras posta I-I TÉLÉPHONES: Rédaction No 31. Administration et Annonces N° 2.52 à toute demande de changement d'adresse [ Cimpte M Chèques postaux II ci., 500 j Régie des Annonces : ORELL FUSSLI-ANNONCES, Martigny, Avenue de la gare et succursales dans toutes les principales villes suisses. Lettre de Fribourg NOTRE DEFENSE NATIONALE se rend compte de cette élémentaire vérité. L'heu re n'est plus aux arguties et aux intérêts de parti — comme le croit encore M. Grimm — mais le A propos de moment est venu de se déclarer nettement et ca le Gobe-Mouches tégoriquement pour ou contre la défense natio nale. Le parti socialiste suisse serait donc bien Le public fribourgeois qui s'intéresse à la poli- I ge au tribunal de la Sarine. Occasion unique de plans stratégiques inspiré de faire son choix et d'agir en conséquence. tique a eu avec infiniment d'intérêt l'interview que montrer que les belles promesses, pour une fois, Il importe, en effet, vis-à-vis de l'étranger, que le M. -
The Alpine Club Library
206 The Alpine Club Library. The entire text of the second edition is revised, rearranged, and rewritten, and the authors have not only simplified the general plan of the guide, but, acting on the advice of the reviewers of the first edition, have added a number of new features, and at the same time have not increased the bulk of the volume. The plan of listing peaks alphabetically within their groups has been retained, and to each peak is added not only the altitude, but the rna p reference number and a key letter indicating its oceanic watershed. It has been considered undesirable to retain the earlier sectional sketch maps, and instead a general key-map has been included. A new feature, noticeably absent from the first edition, is an index of passes with appropriate textual references. A glance at the index of peaks reveals in italics how many mountains in the Rockies are but tenta tively named ; and it is to be hop~ed most emphatically that the decisions of the Geographic Board of Canada, in confirming or revising the suggestions of pioneer mountaineers, will be arrived at with more wisdom and appropriateness, and less regard for passing political fancy, than has been evinced in the recent past. • N. E. 0 . THE ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY. By A. J. MAcKINTOSH. The following works have been added to the Library: • Club Publications . (1) Akad. Alpenclub Bern. 25. · Jahresbericht 1929-30. 9 x 5! : pp. 34 : plates. (2) t\kad. Alpenclub Ziiric~ 34. Jahresbericht. 9 x 6: pp. 43. 1929 (3b) Akad. -
UPADANJE LEDENIKOV Mitja Peternel Izhaja Petnajstega V Mesecu
REVIJA ZA LJUBITELJE GORA ŽE OD LETA 1895 TEMA MESECA Upadanje ledenikov INTERVJU februar 2012 februar Jasna in Andrej Pečjak, EUR plezalca zaledenelih slapov , Z NAMI NA POT Pokljuka Gore nad kočo Sadnighaus Planinski vodnik Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe Vrhovi, lepi razgledi in planinske poti nas kar vabijo v svoja naročja. Da jih boste lažje in varneje obiskovali, smo vam pripravili planinski vodnik Kamniško- Savinjske Alpe, ki je dostopen po zares ugodni ceni. Dela se je na novo lotila skupina avtorjev pod vodstvom Vladimirja Habjana, ki je sam pripravil zasnovo celotnega vodnika in podrobno obdelal skupine Storžiča, Grintovca in Krvavca, Andrej Stritar je opisal skupino Planjave, Ojstrice in Krofičke ter skupino Mrzle gore in Bab, Jože Drab je predstavil skupine Velike planine, Menine in Dobrovelj, Andraž Poljanec pa je obdelal skupine Dobrče, Rogatca in Raduhe. Gorovje je predstavljeno na 296 straneh, kjer najdemo praktične napotke, navodila za uporabo vodnika, izhodišča, koče, prehode, vrhove. Želimo vam obilo lepih potepov s pomočjo naših planinskih vodnikov, varen korak in vabljeni k nakupu. Seveda vas vabimo, da se sprehodite tudi skozi ostalo bogato INFORMACIJE in NAROČILA: ponudbo Planinske založbe PZS in zase ali za prijatelje poiščete Planinska zveza Slovenije, Planinska založba primeren planinski zemljevid, leposlovno knjigo, priročnik, najnovejši - po pošti: Dvorakova ulica 9, p. p. 214, SI-1001 Ljubljana planinski vodnik itd. - po telefonu 01/43 45 684 ali faksu 01/43 45 691 - e-naročila: [email protected] - preko spletne trgovine PZS V času od sredine februarja do sredine marca 2012 lahko vodnik kupite po akcijski, 50 % nižji Slovenski planinski muzej - po pošti: Triglavska cesta 49, 4281 Mojstrana ceni: 10,85 EUR* (redna cena: 21,70 EUR*). -
A Brief History of the Climbers' Club
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE CLIMBERS' CLUB A PERSONAL VIEW BYPIP HOPKINSON In August and September during the 1890s a group of about 40 men met regularly at the Pen y Gwryd to climb and explore the Welsh hills and crags. After one Saturday evening's dinner it was proposed that a club be formed. This idea was pursued at a dinner in London on 19th May 1897 at the Café Monico and the next dinner was fixed for 6th December 1897 at Pen y Gwryd. This was not well-attended; only 25 of the group turned up. Nevertheless the foundations of the Club were laid at this dinner. The resolution 'That a Climbing Club be formed' was proposed by Mr Roderick Williams and seconded by Mr H. G. Gotch, both of whom were already Alpine Club members. This was approved by the group and a provisional Club committee was elected. The provisional committee drafted and sent out a circular to all those known as climbers whose names could be obtained from various sources. It read: The Climbers' Club Dear Sir, It has been determined to establish a Club under the above title. The object of the Club will be to encourage mountaineering, particularly in England, Ireland and Wales, and to serve as a bond of union amongst all lovers of mountain activity. The qualifications of members will be determined by the Committee, who have the sole power of election. The officers will be a President, two Vice-Presidents, an Honorary Secretary and an Honorary Treasurer. The Committee will consist of the officers and nine additional members all to be elected annually at the Annual Meeting. -
In Memoriam 293
IN MEMORIAM 293 IN MEMORIAM ARTHUR PHILEMON COLEMAN I852-I939 . (This notice is reprinted from the Canadian Alpine Journal, by the courtesy of the Editor.) PROFESSOR CoLEMAN died at his home in Toronto on February 26, 1939, in his eighty-seventh year. His mental and to a remarkable extent his physical vitality were preserved to the end. Indeed he had made preparations to leave on February Io for an expedition to British Guiana. His birthplace was at La Chute in Lower Canada, where his father was stationed as Wesleyan minister. His youth was spent in a home of refinement. But the heritage of the pioneers was his, and few Canadians have so readily incurred hardships in the pursuit of know ledge. After a period of teaching he entered Victoria University at Cobourg and graduated in I876. His studies, free from the excessive specialisation of later times, tended to develop broad interests. But his mind definitely turned to the sciences under the influence of a great teacher, Dr. Eugene Haanel. It was largely as a result of his association with Haanel at Victoria that Coleman repaired to Breslau, where he received the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in I 88 I. He returned to his Alma Mater as Professor of Natural History, and continued in this position until Victoria entered into federation with the University of Toronto, when the teaching of the sciences was surrendered to the University. His active teaching at Toronto extended from I89I to I922, first in the School of Practical Science, and then as Professor of Geology in the Faculty of Arts, where he was honoured with the deanship in I9I9. -
Comtois Charles Louis Contejean (1824-1907)
(ÉD.) LAURENT TISSOT, PATRICK VINCENT, JACQUES RAMSEYER (ÉD.) Laurent Tissot est professeur L’existence ne peut-elle pas être vue comme un voyage, dont le émérite de l’Université carnet se remplit peu à peu d’histoires vécues ? LAURENT TISSOT TISSOT LAURENT de Neuchâtel où il a enseigné VINCENT PATRICK Les initiateurs de ce livre ont voulu, à travers des approches mono- l’histoire contemporaine graphiques très variées, susciter une réflexion sur la manière dont économique et sociale pendant e RAMSEYER JACQUES une vingtaine d’années. on voyage, du xvIII siècle à nos jours, et dont on rend compte de cette expérience dans des écrits personnels qui ne sont pas destinés à la publication. Patrick Vincent est professeur Quels liens se tissent entre les personnes qui partent et leur pays de littérature anglaise natal ? En quoi l’âge, le genre, l’origine sociale, le métier, les conven- et américaine à l’Université tions influent-ils sur le récit ? Quelle est la part des lacunes, des de Neuchâtel. blancs et des silences dans ces correspondances et ces carnets de route ? De quelle perception de l’espace et des autres témoignent ces savants, ces artistes, ces explorateurs et ces touristes « ordi- Jacques Ramseyer est conservateur naires » ? Le journal de voyage est-il un miroir de soi autant qu’une des Archives de la vie ordinaire documentation sur les contrées visitées ? (du Pays de Neuchâtel). Chaque voyageur, chaque voyageuse agit comme un révélateur des interrogations et des changements que vit son époque. Du tourisme d’élite au tourisme industriel, d’une mission scientifique dans l’Afrique coloniale aux pérégrinations de jeunes bourgeois en quête de plaisirs balnéaires sur la Côte d’Azur, à pied ou en voiture, en mer ou en haute montagne, de la Suisse aux confins du monde, le voyage a sa part d’aventures et de jouissances, de méditations sur la destinée parfois. -
Hill Bagging 2018
HILL BAGGING 2019 Life before lockdown. Members write about their hill-bagging year: List completions; Simms completion; Core Europe Ultras completion; island bagging; kayaking; climbing; backpacking; close shaves; poems; book reviews; adventures at home and overseas. To jump to an item, click on its title (avoid MS edge browser). Press Ctrl+Home at any time to return to Contents Contents Completions ................................................................................................................................................................... 3 Relative Hills Society Events ........................................................................................................................................... 4 Spring Bagger Rambles, Islay, Port Charlotte YHA: rescheduled to April 23 – 26, 2021 ................................................. 4 Dinner and AGM, The Moorings Hotel, Banavie, Fort William: rescheduled to Sat May 15, 2021 ................................. 4 Summer Isles SIB bagging, Ullapool: hopefully rescheduled to May 2021 .................................................................... 4 Sept 11 – 15, 2020: St Kilda Island Marilyns, Leverburgh, Harris .................................................................................. 4 October – December, 2020: St Kilda Stacs .................................................................................................................. 4 November, 2020 – Autumn Bagger Rambles @TBD ?Northern England ..................................................................... -
Club Alpino Italiano Catalogo Monografie Per Autori UGET Torino
Club Alpino Italiano UGET Torino Biblioteca Catalogo Monografie per Autori Pagina 1 di 74 Biblioteca Cai UGET Torino Abbate , Paolo 1307 Alverà , Sandro 953 Gran Sasso d’Italia / Luca Grazzini. - : , . - ; cm 40 anni di prime salite e soccorsi in montagna degli ** 1. Collana “Guida ai monti d’Italia” 2. Gran Sasso 3. scoiattoli di Cortina / Carlo Gandini. - : , . - ; cm Parco Abruzzo ** 1. Associazioni sportive 2. Soccorso Alpino 3. Cortina d'Ampezzo Acconci , Donatella 444 Cadranno le case dei villaggi / Donatella Acconci . - : , Amateis , Dario 1653 . - ; cm Nuova guida scialpinistica del Canavese / Dario Amateis ** 1. Baite 2. Usi e costumi . - : , . - ; cm ** 1. Scialpinismo 2. Canavese Acutis , Pensiero 345 Dal monte Soglio alle Levanne / Pensiero Acutis . - : , Amin , Mohamed 766 . - ; cm Attraverso il Pakistan / Mohamed Amin . - : , . - ; cm ** 1. Trekking - Guide 2. Alpi Graie ** 1. Viaggi - Diari e memorie 2. Pakistan Affentranger, Irene 172 Amman , Olga 665 Picchi, colli e ghiacciai / Irene Affentranger. - : , . - ; cm Nella terra degli dei / Olga Amman . - : , . - ; cm ** 1. Letteratura - Antologie ** 1. Ascensioni – Europa extra Alpi Affentranger, Irene 1029 Amourous , Charles 292 Pista (la) illuminata / Irene Affentranger. - : , . - ; cm La Haute Maurienne / P. Dompnier. - : , . - ; cm ** 1. Letteratura narrativa ** 1. Guide (libri) 2. Alpi Cozie settentrionali Agnolotti , Giuseppe 423 Amy , Bernard 259 Sarmiento inferno bianco / Giuseppe Agnolotti . - : , . - Les montagnes des autres / Bernard Amy . - : , . - ; cm ; cm ** ** 1. Spedizioni extraeuropee 2. Spedizioni scientifiche 3. Ande 4. Patagonia Amy , Bernard 877 Gli alpinismi: idee forme tecniche / Bernard Amy . - : , Aiely , P. 1518 . - ; cm Escalades dans les Calanques: Marseille Veyre, Vallon ** 1. Alpinismo - Manuali des Aiguilles / P. Aiely . - : , . - ; cm ** 1. Arrampicata palestre 2. Calanques 3. Prealpi di Amy , Bernard 1514 Provenza Guide des escalades de la montagne Sainte Victorie v.