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One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 57-61) he fIrst attempt to ascend Mont Blanc in the twentieth centuryl was T made on Thursday, but without success. Even before the Pierre Pointue was reached the snow was found to be so deep that racquettes had to be used, while at the Grand Junction of the Glacier de Taconna progress was rendered very difficult from the same cause. On reaching Grands Mulets (10,007 feet), it was decided to give up the task of reaching the actual summit owing to the great depth of the snow and the intense cold, and signs ofwind. Moreover, one of the guides was suffering from frostbite. The party, consisting of Mr. Crofts and the guides Joseph Demarchi, Fran~ois Mugnier and Jules Monard spent the night at the Grands Mulets, and descended to Chamonix next morning. The severe conditions experienced by Mr Crofts' party on 17 January 1901 were prolonged by exceptionally cold winds which persisted for several weeks in many Alpine regions. Although little mountaineering was possi ble the fust ski ascents of two peaks were completed: on 30 March Henry Hoek and Ernst Schottelius climbed the Dammastock; and on 28 May Schottelius, accompanied by Friedrich Reichert, reached the summit of the Oberaarhorn. A period of fine weather which commenced in May prompted an early start to the climbing season and by the end of the fIrst week in June a number of successful expeditions had been completed. Throughout Switzerland glorious, warm weather is being experienced, and with it Alpine climbing has begun in real earnest. -
The Alpine Club Library
206 The Alpine Club Library. The entire text of the second edition is revised, rearranged, and rewritten, and the authors have not only simplified the general plan of the guide, but, acting on the advice of the reviewers of the first edition, have added a number of new features, and at the same time have not increased the bulk of the volume. The plan of listing peaks alphabetically within their groups has been retained, and to each peak is added not only the altitude, but the rna p reference number and a key letter indicating its oceanic watershed. It has been considered undesirable to retain the earlier sectional sketch maps, and instead a general key-map has been included. A new feature, noticeably absent from the first edition, is an index of passes with appropriate textual references. A glance at the index of peaks reveals in italics how many mountains in the Rockies are but tenta tively named ; and it is to be hop~ed most emphatically that the decisions of the Geographic Board of Canada, in confirming or revising the suggestions of pioneer mountaineers, will be arrived at with more wisdom and appropriateness, and less regard for passing political fancy, than has been evinced in the recent past. • N. E. 0 . THE ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY. By A. J. MAcKINTOSH. The following works have been added to the Library: • Club Publications . (1) Akad. Alpenclub Bern. 25. · Jahresbericht 1929-30. 9 x 5! : pp. 34 : plates. (2) t\kad. Alpenclub Ziiric~ 34. Jahresbericht. 9 x 6: pp. 43. 1929 (3b) Akad. -
Alpine Notes
ALPINE NOTES ALPINE NOTES Year of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY : Election. Howard, G. E. • • • • • 1907 Roger-Smith, H. R. • • • • I9IO Gates, Caleb F., Jr. • • • • • I928 Hey, Wilson H. • • • • • I929 Hobday, S. R. • • • • • • I933 Sarpy, A. U. • • • • • • I936 ALPINE JouRNAL. Index to Vols. 39- 58. Copies of this index are still available and may be ordered from the Assistant Secretary, Alpine Club, 74, South Audley Street, London, W. I. Price 2os. post free. Copies of the Index to Vols. I6- 38 are also available, price 2os. post free. · Back numbers of the ALPINE JOURNAL are generally extant ·: prices on application. HoNORARY MEMBERSHIP. At the Winter Dinner on December 6, I955, Sir Edwin Herbert announced, amid applause, that His Royal . Highness the Duke of Edinburgh had graciously accepted Honorary Membership of the Alpine Club. We are glad to announce, also, that Dr. G. M. Trevelyan, former Master of Trinity, has been elected an Honorary Member of the Club. ScHALLIHORN : FIRST AscENT FROM THE ScHALLIJOCH. E. A. Broome with Alois and Heinrich Pollinger claimed to have made the first ascent of the North ridge of the Schallihorn in 1903, 1 but was later told by George Y eld that the ridge had been once previously climbed, • though no particulars of this expedition were ever given. 2 It would be of interest to know if any information is available about this supposed earlier ascent. G. Winthrop Young was under the impression that his party was making the first ascent of the ridge in I 907, 3 but this was not · so, though the matter of Broome's priority is still undecided. -
One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 72-76) anuary, 1898, has been an extraordinary month in the High Alps. A succession of cloudless days following on one of the small Jest falls of snow on record has made winter climbing much less laborious than it usually is. After an ascent of Piz Sella on Jan. 12, I went on the 19th to Boval, the little club hut by the Morteratsch Glacier. I was accompanied by a friend and two guides, and on the 20th, in summerlike weather, we made the ascent of Piz Palii, taking many photographs en route. The following day we went up another big mountain, Piz Zupo, 13,100 feet, and plied the camera again diligently on its head and sides. Though a cloudless day, there was a little wind, and on the top we felt somewhat chilly after an hour's stay. Indeed, my friend had to retire to bed with a slightly frost-bitten toe when we got pome, and all our food and drinkables were frozen even by our return at 3.30 p.m. to the Morteratsch restaurant. The favourable conditions experienced by Mrs Elizabeth MainI and PH Cooke during their climbs from the Boval hut with the guides Martin Schocher and Christian Schnitzler were enjoyed in many parts of the Alps during the opening weeks of 1898. On 28 January Frederick Gardiner and his wife Alice, accompanied by Ulrich, Rudolf, Hans and Peter Almer and a porter, reached the summit of the Wetterhorn after a night at the Gleckstein hut. -
British Members Swiss Alpine Club
THE ASSOCIATION OF BRITISH MEMBERS OF THE SWISS ALPINE CLUB (established 1909) President: C. T. LEHMANN, ESQ. Vice-Presidents : W. M. Roberts, O.B.E. A. E. W. Mason. A. N. Andrews. Sir William Ellis, G.B.E. CONTENTS : Committee and Officers. Report, Accounts and Balance Sheet for 1943. How to belong to Swiss Alpine Club, etc. List of Meetings for 1944. List of Members Serving in H.M. Forces, Obituary—Canon Salwey. Extracts from “ Les Alpes” 1943. Club Notes. Catalogue of Books in the Library. Objects and Rules of Association. List of Members of Association and Addresses. List of Hon. Members. Kindred Clubs and some Sections of S.A.C. Hon. Treasurer: C. T.' LEHMANN, 35, Mattock Lane, Ealing, W.5 Hon. Secretaries: M. N. CLARKE and F. W. CAVEY. Temporary Address : c/o The Hon. Treasurer . 1944 msi Association of British Members of the Swiss Alpine Club V 1944 Officers : President: C. T. Lehmann, 'AC.' (Diablerets) 1937. Vice-Presidents: A. E. W. Mason, 'AC.' (Geneva), President, 1912-1922, V.P., 1923. \V. M. Roberts. O.B.E., 'AC.' (Oberhasli), Hon. Secretary, 1923-1930, President, l.oqt loin V V 10*11 Sib William Elus. G.B.E., 'AC' (Bern), 1936. A. N. Andrews, 'AC.' (Grindelwald), Hon. Secretary, 1912-1928, Hon. Librarian, 1929 1932, President, 1934 -1936, V P., 1933 and 1937. Committee : A. A. Galloway, 'AC.' R. P. Mears, ‘ AC.’ (Geneva) 1943 (Monte Rosa) 1942 F. R. Crepin, ‘ AC.’ (Geneva) 1944 C. G. Mauicbreitek, C.B.E., R. S. Dadson, ‘ .46'.’ 'AC' (Geneva) 1942 (Monte Rosa) 1944 R. -
Naturwissenschaftler Als Alpinisten
„ … dass die Bergwelt im höchsten Maße eingehende Betrachtung verdient“. Naturwissenschaftler als Alpinisten Materialien zum Seminar „Philosophie und Geschichte der Naturwissenschaft“ im WS 2012 R. Werner Soukup, TU Wien Im Jahre 2012 feierte der Österreichische Alpenverein seine Gründung vor 150 Jahren. Aus diesem Anlass wurde eine Festschrift herausgegeben. Mir fiel die Aufgabe zu, die Ereignisse zu beschreiben, die der Gründung vorausgingen. 1 Überraschend war, dass es sich bei gut zwei Drittel der Gründungs- mitglieder dieser Vereinigung von Menschen, die an der Erschließung der Alpen interessiert waren, um Naturwissenschaftler handelte: um Geologen, Geografen, Botaniker, aber auch Chemiker und Physiker. Beim Vergleich mit der Gründung von alpinen Vereinen in anderen europäischen Ländern 2 zeigte sich zwar eine speziell für Österreich geltende politische Besonderheit, dennoch ließ sich auch anderswo ein Konnex zwischen Naturwissenschaft und Alpinismus feststellen. Erstaunlich viele Naturwissenschaftler sind auch heute noch Bergsteiger. Bei den Geografen, den Geologen und den Botanikern wundert uns dies kaum. Doch auch unter den Physikern oder Chemikern findet man viele Alpinisten. Ist das Zufall? Wenn man die historische Entwicklung Revue passieren lässt, so beobachtet man eine weitere Merkwürdigkeit, nämlich eine Art Synchronizität der Entwicklung. Erste Ansätze der Entstehung der Naturwissenschaften und einem frühen Alpinismus im 16. Jahrhundert, einen Stillstand im 17., hingegen eine stürmische Phase gegen das Ende des 18. Jahrhunderts. Im 19. Jahrhundert werden immer breitere Schichten erfasst. Das 20. Jahrhundert bringt eine immer größer werdende Spezialisierung. Im Jahre 1618 hat der Leibarzt des Kaisers Rudolf II. in Prag, Michael Maier eine Sammlung von Emblemen und Epigrammen über die Geheimnisse der Natur unter dem Titel „Atalanta fugiens, hoc est emblemata nova de secretis naturae chymica“ drucken lassen. -
DATA ASCENSIONE AUTORI PARETE CRESTA 1857 1° Tentativo, Raggiunta La Testa Del Leone Amé Gorret Con Jean-Antoine Carrel E
DATA ASCENSIONE AUTORI PARETE CRESTA Amé Gorret con Jean-Antoine 1857 1° tentativo, raggiunta la Testa del Leone Carrel e Jean-Jacques Carrel Leone 1857 2° tentativo, raggiunta la Cheminée Victor Carrel e Gabriel Maquignaz Leone Jean-Antoine Carrel e Jean- 1858/59 3° tentativo, raggiunta la Grande Tour Jacques Carrel Leone Alfred Parker, Charles Parker e luglio 1860 4° tentativo, raggiunta quota 3600 m Sandbach Parker Hörnli John Tyndall e Vaugham Hawkins con Jean-Jacques Carrel e agosto 1860 5° tentativo, raggiunta la Grande Tour Johann-Joseph Bennen Leone Alfred Parker, Charles Parker e luglio 1861 6° tentativo, raggiunta quota 3700 m Sandbach Parker Hörnli Jean-Antoine Carrel e Jean- 29 agosto 1861 7° tentativo, raggiunta la Crête du Coq Jacques Carrel Leone Edward Whymper con guida non 29/30 agosto 1861 8° tentativo, raggiunta la Cheminée nota Leone Thomas Stuart Kennedy, Peter 9° tentativo, in invernale, raggiunta quota 3400 Hans Perren, Peter Taugwalder gennaio 1862 m senior Hörnli Edward Whymper e Reginald J. S. Macdonald con Johann Zum Taugwald, Johann Kronig e Luc 7/8 luglio 1862 10° tentativo, raggiunta la Cheminée Meynet Leone Edward Whymper e Reginald J. S. Macdonald con Jean-Antoine 9/10 luglio 1862 11° tentativo, raggiunta la Grande Tour Carrel e Alexandre (?) Pession Leone 18/19 luglio 1862 12° tentativo, raggiunta la Cravate Edward Whymper Leone Edward Whymper con Jean- Antoine Carrel, Cesar Carrel e 23/24 luglio 1862 13° tentativo, raggiunta la Crête du Coq Luc Meynet Leone Edward Whymper con Luc 25/26 luglio 1862 14° tentativo, raggiunta la Cravate Meynet Leone John Tyndall con Jean-Antoine Carrel, Johann Bennen, Joseph Bennen, Anton Walter, Cesar 27/28 luglio 1862 15° tentativo, raggiunta l'Enjambée Carrel e un portatore Leone Edward Whymper con Jean- Antoine Carrel, Cesar Carrel, Luc 10/11 agosto 1863 16° tentativo, raggiunta la Crête du Coq Meynet e 2 portatori Leone Edward Whymper con Michel 17° tentativo, salgono in parete sud per il canale Croz, Christian Almer, Franz 21 giugno 1865 a ds del Picco Muzio. -
Bergell Für Einsteiger Und Genießer
Unterwegs IM BERGELL Südlich des Malojapasses warten die Bergeller Berge rund um die Capanna Albigna mit einem der vielgestaltigsten Tourengebiete der Zentralalpen auf. Ob klassische alpine Bergtouren oder anspruchsvolle Skihochtouren, Genussklettereien oder Sportkletter- touren, Firnflanken oder Steileiscouloirs – für beinahe jede Jahreszeit und jeden Geschmack ist hier die gesamte Palette des Bergsports geboten. Von E WA L D W E I S S Foto: RenataFoto: Rossi Der bizarre Granit- zacken der Fiamma auf dem Massiv des Spazzacaldeira ist die größte Attraktion für Kletterfreunde im Bergell, falls sie nur auf kurze Touren aus sind. Die Godet-Rütter-Route an der Nordwand der Cima Cantone zählt zu den beliebtesten klassi- schen Eistouren des Gebiets (rechts). AlbignaAlbigna Foto: Rudi Lindner Foto: Bergell für Einsteiger und Genießer Nr. 4/2002 22 DAV Panorama Nr. 4/2002 DAV Panorama 23 Unterwegs IM BERGELL Die Albignahütte, kaum sichtbar auf Konditionsstarken und erfahrenen Berg- Eis, Firn und Frühjahrsschnee dem begrünten Sporn im Mittelgrund, gängern vermittelt der unschwierige Piz Der bedeutendste Klassiker unter den wird von eisgepanzerten Dreitausendern Casnile (3189 m) eine lohnende Dreitausen- Hochtouren führt auf den höchsten Gipfel dominiert: Links oben die Cima Cantone dertour mit grandioser Aussicht über die im- des Bergeller Grenzkamms,die Cima di Cas- mit dem Vadrec dal Cantun, darunter die possante Runde des Fornobeckens und die tello (3388 m), über den Vadrec del Castel dunkle Pyramide der Punta da l’Álbigna formvollendeten Giganten des Bergells vom Nord, unmittelbar hinter der Punta da ‘l Al- und rechts darüber die Cima di Castello, Monte Disgrazia im Osten bis zum Piz Badile bigna. Über anstrengende Blockhalden und höchster Gipfel im schweizerisch-italieni- im Westen.Gute Geher können die Tour (mit Gletscherfirn ist hier eine Höhendifferenz schen Grenzkamm mit dem Vadrec dal Seilbahnhilfe) also vom Tal aus in einem Tag von etwa 1300 Metern zu überwinden.Von Castel Nord. -
JOURNAL 1975 We Stock Climbing Gear, Sleeping Bags, Duvets, Water- Proof Clothing
THE ASSOCIATION OF BRITISH MEMBERS OF THE SWISS ALPINE CLUB we can supply everything but the mountain! JOURNAL 1975 We stock Climbing Gear, Sleeping Bags, Duvets, Water- proof Clothing. Specialise in Backpacking Gear. Plus over 40 Tents suitable for mountain use: names like Karrimor, Clog, Stubai, Moac, Saunders, Blacks, Kastinger, Vango, CONTENTS Henri Lloyd, HeIly Hansen, Grenfell, Ultimate, Snowdon, Peck, Hawkins, Bonaiti Cassin, Simond, Viking, Troll, Optimus, Point Five, Mountain, G. & H., J. B. Salewa, M.S.R., Camptralls, Scarpa, Berghaus, Spider & Joanny. Diary for 1975 3 You will be dealing with experts—Les Holliwell is our technical adviser. Before buying your gear—write or phone Maurice Bennett 5 for our EXTRAORDINARY COMPETITIVE FREE PRICE LIST. Barclaycard/Access accepted. We have a large Mail British Columbia by K. Ft. Hindell 7 Order Department—most items immediate despatch with 7 day approval service. The High Tatra by E. Sondheimer 10 We have a special Contract Department for Club and A House in the Mountains by 0. St. John 13 Expedition orders. Two Alpine Meets 15 Arolla by A. N. Sperryn Meiringen by J. E. Coales 25 Kings Road, Brentwood, Essex, Tel: (STD 0277) 221259. Only 10 minutes from Brentwood Station ; 30 minutes from Association Activities 19 London's Liverpool Street Station (Southend Line). NMI moo MIN Association Accounts 26 Please send me a copy of your FREE Price List Members' Climbs 29 NAME List of Past ea Present Officers 49 ADDRESS Complete List of Members 51 SE MEM DIARY FOR 1975 22 January Lecture, The Rockies by Mrs. Sally Westmacott 8-9 February Northern Dinner Meet, Glenridding - Leader, W. -
The Almers and Their Führerbücher
,, ,, THE ALMERS AND THEIR FUHRERBUCHER 2 57 • • • • THE ALMERS AND THEIR FUHRERBUCHER BY G. HASLER CHRISTIAN ALMER I, I826-I8g8. His sons: ULRICH, b. 1849; CHRISTIAN II, b. 1859; H ANS, b. r86r ; R u DOLF, b. r864; PETER, b. r86g; • T has been my good fortune to have all seven Fiihrerbucher of the Almer family in my hands. It seemed to me that, though the story of the Almers may not be so interesting to a generation which had had hardly any .contact with them, yet there lay in front of me a unique piece of AI pine history which deserved to be collected together as a reminder of past times. There can be few left who remember old Christian himself, nor can there be many who have travelled with his sons, but the amount of foot-pounds these six men who amongst them total up 46 5 years to date have put into the exploration of the Alps and the additions they have helped t o make to Alpine history and topography, are stupendous. When Christian Almer was born on March 29, r8z6, except for what were then considered the extraordinary performances of the Meyers and very few others, nothing had been done. When Christian ';vas eighteen the height of a mountain-lover's ambition, always ex cepting chamois hunters, did not extend t o much more than the crossing of the Strahlegg and Tschingel Passes, a visit to the glaciers, and as a high-water mark a rare ascent of ·Mont Blanc with a train of guides and porters and provisions beyond all reckoning. -
A Short History of the Rucksack Club 1902 - 1939 a Reprinting of the Works of Byrom and Brockbank Prepared by Roger Booth, Mike Dent and John Payne
A of History Short The Rucksack Club 1902 - 1939 By Philip Brockbank & Eric Byrom A Short History of The Rucksack Club 1902 - 1939 All Rights Reserved Copyright ©Copyright The Rucksack Club 2011 Printed and bound in the UK by Lulu.com A of the Rucksack Club 1902 - 1939 History Short A of Byrom and Brockbank Works Reprinting of the Prepared by Roger Booth, Mike Dent and John Payne Blank Reverse A SHORT HISTORY OF THE RUCKSACK CLUB 1902-1939 written by Philip Brockbank and Eric Byrom in 1977 Prepared for publication in 2011 by Mike Dent, Roger Booth and John Payne i A SHORT HISTORY OF THE RUCKSACK CLUB Created for the Rucksack by members 2011 Copyright © Rucksack Club 2011 All Rights reserved Printed and bound in the UK by Lulu.com ii A SHORT HISTORY OF THE RUCKSACK CLUB Contents Contents Page Introduction iv Biographical Notes v Preface Philip Brockbank 1 The Beginning: 1902-1918 Philip Brockbank 3 The Club at Home: 1919-1939 Philip Brockbank 23 Rockclimbing: 1919-1939 Eric Byrom 62 Climbing abroad: 1919-1939 Eric Byrom 74 Walking: 1919-1939 Philip Brockbank 83 Appendix I - Officers 1902-1939 99 Appendix II - Illustrations Mike Dent 100 iii A SHORT HISTORY OF THE RUCKSACK CLUB Introduction by Roger Booth Philip Brockbank explains in the following preface the circumstances in which this history of the Rucksack Club from 1902 to 1939 was written. As well as the “Preface”, “Part 1 - The Beginning: 1902-1918” and “Part 2 - The Club at Home: 1919-1939” were written by Brockbank and originally made available as a typewritten document only on request. -
STORIA DEL CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO 1) La Nascita Dopo L'unità
Liberamente tratto da Lo Scarpone http://www.loscarpone.cai.it/news/items/storia-del-cai-a-puntate.html STORIA DEL CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO Liberamente tratto da Lo Scarpone http://www.loscarpone.cai.it/news/items/storia-del-cai-a-puntate.html 1) La nascita dopo l'Unità d'Italia Foto a destra: Quintino Sella, ritratto fotografico (1880) Il CAI è nato nel 1863 e ha accompagnato le trasformazioni del nostro paese, attraversando i diversi momenti felici e difficili della nostra storia unitaria. "Gli anni ’60 dell’Ottocento si aprono con l’Unità d’Italia e, per gli alpinisti, proseguono con la fondazione del Club Alpino. Non sono affatto due nascite separate, al contrario. Mai come allora politica e montagna, affari di stato e passioni di vetta si sfiorano, s’incrociano, si completano. Nel 1861, dopo decenni di guerre, utopie, alleanze, fallimenti e ripartenze, arriva l’Unità d’Italia. Perché l’Italia? Che c’entra la Liguria con la Calabria? E la Romagna con la Puglia? Il legame italiano è fisicamente incarnato dalla spina dorsale appenninica, uno scheletro geologico capace di tenere insieme la testa e i piedi dello stivale, circa 1300 chilometri di montagne che uniscono da sempre il nord, il centro e il sud della penisola. Per le Alpi occidentali, al contrario, l’Unità d’Italia significa frattura e divisione, perché nel 1860 Cavour cede Nizza e la Savoia ai francesi in cambio di aiuto diplomatico e militare. Tutti abbiamo studiato la formuletta sui libri di scuola, giocando a Risiko con le mappe post risorgimentali: a loro le terre che stavano di là delle Alpi, a noi quelle che sono di qua.