Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1037 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS WRITER THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Damian Harper the last edition and wrote to us with help- Much gratitude to Xiao Xue, Mr Zhang, Jason, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Li Chengyuan, Grace, Kathy with the perfect anecdotes: English, Margaux, Alvin, Dai Min, Ann Harper, A Alexander Luijt, Alexandra Coley, Alistair Ba and Ma, the lovely couple who befriended Hayes, Andrew Smith, Anne Agersted B Brian and helped me on the bus outside Datong and Favell C Cedric Schelfhaut, Charlotte Toolan, all the countless offers of help and guidance Chris Purslow, Christoph Messmer, Ciriaco from one of the friendliest nations on this Vicente- Mazariegos, Constantin Berger planet. Thanks to all of you. D Daniel Gauthier, David Evans, Donald Ross E Erik Ainley F Ferry Quast, Frans van Eijk Piera Chen G Gabriele Corsetti, Geoff Crowhurst, Georg Thanks to the Lonely Planet team, and to my Fernkorn J James Lindsay, Jérôme Andrey, Jim friends Janine Cheung and Yuen Ching-sum for Wilcox, Johannes Voit, John Hobkinson, Jon their generous assistance. Thanks also to my Wisloff, Julien Chapuis, Juul ScheffersK Kath- husband Sze Pang-cheung and daughter Clio erine Perez, Kathleen Vennens, Kellie Simms for their patience and wonderful support. L Laurence Markens M Massimiliano Amman- nito, Mateusz Poślednik, Mathias Herr, Michele Martin, Michelle Josselyn P Paolo Priotto Megan Eaves R Ralph Pringsheim, Raul Cruz Sierra, Rebecca Many thanks to my incredible China writers, Lagomarsino, Richard Barnett, Rita Selke, Ron especially Damian Harper and Phillip Tang Crawford, Ron Perrier S Sandy Dance, Sara for taking on giant chunks of research. Vega Santambrogio, Scott Mills, Shohei Takashiro, Liu and Coco Guan at LPCN. Gratitude to the Stijn Eeckhaut, Susanne Badertscher T Tom Fujianese monks who rescued me when I was de Bruin, Tricia Fort W Wouter Kolkman Y Yana stranded at Tiantishan. As always, Dave Carroll, Yout, Yu Hongyuan Z Zy Zhang Jen Carey and Tom Hall, who continue to trust me to run off to China for three weeks and actually come back to the office. And Bill, who forever supports my random need to just go be by myself in the desert for awhile. 1038 David Eimer world you love and know so well. I also de- Special gratitude goes to Emi Yang for her pended on the kindness of strangers: for tips, invaluable assistance. Thanks also to Cathy rides and company. To Megan for sending me and Lijuan in Jinghong for their inside knowl- back to China and to Wyn-Lyn for your con- edge, as well as to Megan Eaves at Lonely stant support! Planet. As ever, thanks to the many people BEHIND THE SCENES along the way who passed on tips, whether Tom Masters knowingly or unwittingly. Enormous thanks to the people who helped me research this tough destination. Particu- Helen Elfer larly effusive gratitude to Jacob Schickler, A huge 谢谢 to everyone I met on this trip who joined me on the road to take pictures for who patiently answered questions and of- two superb weeks, and whose library of work fered advice, also to friends past and present on Xinjiang is simply superb. I’ve decided not who made my time in China so memorable. to thank anyone personally inside Xinjiang Particular gratitude to bona fide China Hands here, due to the political sensitivities there, Casey and Mike Hall for all sorts of logistical, but a big shout out to the tour guides, hostel technical and moral support, plus heaps of employees, intrepid taxi drivers and bloggers I fun. And finally thanks to Orlando for coming met on my travels, you know who you are! along for the ride, to China and in general. Emily Matchar Daisy Harper Thanks to Megan Eaves and the rest of the For time and effort, big thanks as ever to Mar- LP team for their terrific work. Thanks to Mao gaux, Alvin too, Dai Ruibin, Liu Meina, Jamie Mao for her excellent hot pot suggestions. Chen, Li Jiaqi, Sun Rong and Jackie Zhang. I Thanks to the staff of Travelling With hostel am also very grateful to my husband and to in Chongqing for all their help and advice. Jiafu and Jiale, all ever helpful and patient. And thanks to my husband, Jamin Asay, for Thanks also to everyone else I bumped in accompanying me on this exploration of the to along the way who made my job that bit hilly terrain and ultra-spicy food of this part easier. of China. Trent Holden Bradley Mayhew First up a massive thanks to Megan Eaves Thanks to Tenzin and Dechen at Tibet for commissioning me on Beijing. A massive Highland Tours for their help, and to guides honour indeed to cover a city of this mag- Jamyang and Lobsang for their patience. nitude. Also wanted to say a big thank you Tashi delek to Sandra Braunfels for coming to fellow LP colleagues based in the Beijing along on yet another Kailash trek. Cheers office, including Vega Liu for all your great also to Jamin York and Sonam Jamphel. tips, beers and assistance along the way, and Guan ‘Coco’ Yuanyuan for letting me use the Rebecca Milner office as a temporary workspace – a big help! I’m indebted to Frank, Marian, Nikki, Ping and A shout out to everyone who I shared a beer so many others whose small kindnesses were with, and the tips on places to check out. deeply felt. Chris P: your advice was so help- As always lots of love to my girlfriend Kate ful. Megan: this was such an amazing expe- Morgan, and all my family and friends in Mel- rience, thank you! M&D: none of this would bourne and London. have been possible without you, in so many ways. C, your support means the world to me. Stephen Lioy Makiko, for being a patient partner in trav- Kate Morgan el and life – no matter how long the trips Thanks to Destination Editor, Megan Eaves, become. Jason, for being a steadfast and reli- for commissioning me for this great project. able friend. See you on the trail soon, I hope. Big thanks to Pat Rogers and Chris Rogers for Alina, for being an endless source of infor- some excellent Shànghǎi suggestions, and mation. See you in five more years or so? thanks very much to my parents Heather and Becky (of teaandprayerflags.com), for being Gary for all of their support. Most important a far more engaged and invested traveller of thank you goes to my favourite person and Tibetan regions than me, and for making sure travel partner, Trent, for always being there that those who follow have the deepest expe- for me and for all the laughs along the way. rience possible. Shawn Low Thanks goes to Jamin Lobsang, Tashi and Tsebtim for showing me the parts of the 1039 Tom Spurling guidance. Thanks to all the Chinese people To Lucy, for following me around the world. To for warmth in their towns – Jimmy in Guǎng- 小民 Oliver and Poppy, for keeping our spirits up zhōu, Wayne in Méizhōu, in Yánjí, Ted in when we just wanted to go home. To Marcus, Wǔdàlián Chí and borderlands, and especially for the Jiangxi shuffle and for supporting my Gorden in Cháozhōu. Reflective thanks to television career. To Mo Laoshi, for the local family in Guǎngzhōu. wisdom. To Megan, for the stellar opportuni- BEHIND THE SCENES ty. And to all the citizens of the PRC, for the sincere enthusiasm towards a traveller who ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS was too busy not getting lost at times to pay Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson you sufficient attention. BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Phillip Tang ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. I’m incredibly grateful to 邹嘉 in Shěnyáng Cover photograph: Chinese Traditional Opera, not only for hospitality, but for your viciously Julian W/Shutterstock © good knowledge. Big thanks to Megan Eaves, Illustrations: pp72–3 and pp300-1 by Michael Nigel Chin and Ali Lemer for keen eyes and Weldon. Product Editors Amanda Williamson, Simon THIS BOOK Kate Chapman, Catherine Williamson This 15th edition of Lonely Naghten Cartographers Planet’s China guidebook was Senior Cartographer Hunor Csutoros, Julie Dodkins, researched and written by Julie Sheridan James Leversha Damian Harper, Piera Chen, Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Cover Researcher Megan Eaves, David Eimer, Assisting Editors Naomi Parker Helen Elfer, Daisy Harper, Trent Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Thanks to Jane Atkin, Joe Holden, Stephen Lioy, Shawn Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Bindloss, Cheree Broughton, Low, Tom Masters, Emily Boicos, Nigel Chin, Grace Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Dobell, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Rebecca Milner, Kate Mor- Evans, Samantha Forge, Carly Coco Guan, Gemma Gra- gan, Christopher Pitts, Tom Hall, Paul Harding, Gabby ham, Jane Grisman, Corey Spurling and Phillip Tang.