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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS WRITER THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Damian Harper the last edition and wrote to us with help- Much gratitude to Xiao Xue, Mr Zhang, Jason, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Li Chengyuan, Grace, Kathy with the perfect anecdotes: English, Margaux, Alvin, Dai Min, Ann Harper, A Alexander Luijt, Alexandra Coley, Alistair Ba and Ma, the lovely couple who befriended Hayes, Andrew Smith, Anne Agersted B Brian and helped me on the bus outside Datong and Favell C Cedric Schelfhaut, Charlotte Toolan, all the countless offers of help and guidance Chris Purslow, Christoph Messmer, Ciriaco from one of the friendliest nations on this Vicente-­Mazariegos, Constantin Berger planet. Thanks to all of you. D Daniel Gauthier, David Evans, Donald Ross E Erik Ainley F Ferry Quast, Frans van Eijk Piera Chen G Gabriele Corsetti, Geoff Crowhurst, Georg Thanks to the Lonely Planet team, and to my Fernkorn J James Lindsay, Jérôme Andrey, Jim friends Janine Cheung and Yuen Ching-sum for Wilcox, Johannes Voit, John Hobkinson, Jon their generous assistance. Thanks also to my Wisloff, Julien Chapuis, Juul ScheffersK Kath- husband Sze Pang-cheung and daughter Clio erine Perez, Kathleen Vennens, Kellie Simms for their patience and wonderful support. L Laurence Markens M Massimiliano Amman- nito, Mateusz Poślednik, Mathias Herr, Michele Martin, Michelle Josselyn P Paolo Priotto Megan Eaves R Ralph Pringsheim, Raul Cruz Sierra, Rebecca Many thanks to my incredible China writers, Lagomarsino, Richard Barnett, Rita Selke, Ron especially Damian Harper and Phillip Tang Crawford, Ron Perrier S Sandy Dance, Sara for taking on giant chunks of research. Vega Santambrogio, Scott Mills, Shohei Takashiro, Liu and Coco Guan at LPCN. Gratitude to the Stijn Eeckhaut, Susanne Badertscher T Tom Fujianese monks who rescued me when I was de Bruin, Tricia Fort W Wouter Kolkman Y Yana stranded at Tiantishan. As always, Dave Carroll, Yout, Yu Hongyuan Z Zy Zhang Jen Carey and Tom Hall, who continue to trust me to run off to China for three weeks and actually come back to the office. And Bill, who forever supports my random need to just go be by myself in the desert for awhile. 1038 David Eimer world you love and know so well. I also de- Special gratitude goes to Emi Yang for her pended on the kindness of strangers: for tips, invaluable assistance. Thanks also to Cathy rides and company. To Megan for sending me and Lijuan in Jinghong for their inside knowl- back to China and to Wyn-Lyn for your con- edge, as well as to Megan Eaves at Lonely stant support! Planet. As ever, thanks to the many people

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND along the way who passed on tips, whether Tom Masters knowingly or unwittingly. Enormous thanks to the people who helped me research this tough destination. Particu- Helen Elfer larly effusive gratitude to Jacob Schickler, A huge 谢谢 to everyone I met on this trip who joined me on the road to take pictures for who patiently answered questions and of- two superb weeks, and whose library of work fered advice, also to friends past and present on Xinjiang is simply superb. I’ve decided not who made my time in China so memorable. to thank anyone personally inside Xinjiang Particular gratitude to bona fide China Hands here, due to the political sensitivities there, Casey and Mike Hall for all sorts of logistical, but a big shout out to the tour guides, hostel technical and moral support, plus heaps of employees, intrepid taxi drivers and bloggers I fun. And finally thanks to Orlando for coming met on my travels, you know who you are! along for the ride, to China and in general. Emily Matchar Daisy Harper Thanks to Megan Eaves and the rest of the For time and effort, big thanks as ever to Mar- LP team for their terrific work. Thanks to Mao gaux, Alvin too, Dai Ruibin, Liu Meina, Jamie Mao for her excellent hot pot suggestions. Chen, Li Jiaqi, Sun Rong and Jackie Zhang. I Thanks to the staff of Travelling With hostel am also very grateful to my husband and to in Chongqing for all their help and advice. Jiafu and Jiale, all ever helpful and patient. And thanks to my husband, Jamin Asay, for Thanks also to everyone else I bumped in accompanying me on this exploration of the to along the way who made my job that bit hilly terrain and ultra-spicy food of this part easier. of China.

Trent Holden Bradley Mayhew First up a massive thanks to Megan Eaves Thanks to Tenzin and Dechen at Tibet for commissioning me on Beijing. A massive Highland Tours for their help, and to guides honour indeed to cover a city of this mag- Jamyang and Lobsang for their patience. nitude. Also wanted to say a big thank you Tashi delek to Sandra Braunfels for coming to fellow LP colleagues based in the Beijing along on yet another Kailash trek. Cheers office, including Vega Liu for all your great also to Jamin York and Sonam Jamphel. tips, beers and assistance along the way, and Guan ‘Coco’ Yuanyuan for letting me use the Rebecca Milner office as a temporary workspace – a big help! I’m indebted to Frank, Marian, Nikki, Ping and A shout out to everyone who I shared a beer so many others whose small kindnesses were with, and the tips on places to check out. deeply felt. Chris P: your advice was so help- As always lots of love to my girlfriend Kate ful. Megan: this was such an amazing expe- Morgan, and all my family and friends in Mel- rience, thank you! M&D: none of this would bourne and London. have been possible without you, in so many ways. C, your support means the world to me. Stephen Lioy Makiko, for being a patient partner in trav- Kate Morgan el and life – no matter how long the trips Thanks to Destination Editor, Megan Eaves, become. Jason, for being a steadfast and reli- for commissioning me for this great project. able friend. See you on the trail soon, I hope. Big thanks to Pat Rogers and Chris Rogers for Alina, for being an endless source of infor- some excellent Shànghǎi suggestions, and mation. See you in five more years or so? thanks very much to my parents Heather and Becky (of teaandprayerflags.com), for being Gary for all of their support. Most important a far more engaged and invested traveller of thank you goes to my favourite person and Tibetan regions than me, and for making sure travel partner, Trent, for always being there that those who follow have the deepest expe- for me and for all the laughs along the way. rience possible. Shawn Low Thanks goes to Jamin Lobsang, Tashi and Tsebtim for showing me the parts of the 1039 Tom Spurling guidance. Thanks to all the Chinese people To Lucy, for following me around the world. To for warmth in their towns – Jimmy in Guǎng- 小民 Oliver and Poppy, for keeping our spirits up zhōu, Wayne in Méizhōu, in Yánjí, Ted in when we just wanted to go home. To Marcus, Wǔdàlián Chí and borderlands, and especially for the Jiangxi shuffle and for supporting my Gorden in Cháozhōu. Reflective thanks to television career. To Mo Laoshi, for the local family in Guǎngzhōu. wisdom. To Megan, for the stellar opportuni- SCENES THE BEHIND ty. And to all the citizens of the PRC, for the sincere enthusiasm towards a traveller who ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS was too busy not getting lost at times to pay Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson you sufficient attention. BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Phillip Tang ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. I’m incredibly grateful to 邹嘉 in Shěnyáng Cover photograph: Chinese Traditional Opera, not only for hospitality, but for your viciously Julian W/Shutterstock © good knowledge. Big thanks to Megan Eaves, Illustrations: pp72–3 and pp300-1 by Michael Nigel Chin and Ali Lemer for keen eyes and Weldon.

Product Editors Amanda Williamson, Simon THIS BOOK Kate Chapman, Catherine Williamson This 15th edition of Lonely Naghten Cartographers Planet’s China guidebook was Senior Cartographer Hunor Csutoros, Julie Dodkins, researched and written by Julie Sheridan James Leversha Damian Harper, Piera Chen, Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Cover Researcher Megan Eaves, David Eimer, Assisting Editors Naomi Parker Helen Elfer, Daisy Harper, Trent Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Thanks to Jane Atkin, Joe Holden, Stephen Lioy, Shawn Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Bindloss, Cheree Broughton, Low, Tom Masters, Emily Boicos, Nigel Chin, Grace Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Dobell, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Rebecca Milner, Kate Mor- Evans, Samantha Forge, Carly Coco Guan, Gemma Gra- gan, Christopher Pitts, Tom Hall, Paul Harding, Gabby ham, Jane Grisman, Corey Spurling and Phillip Tang. This Innes, Helen Koehne, Kellie Hutchison, Andi Jones, Lauren guidebook was produced by Langdon, Ali Lemer, Anne Keith, Indra Kilfoyle, Chris the following: Mason, Kate Mathews, Anne LeeAck, Vega Liu, Claire Naylor, Destination Editor Mulvaney, Lauren O’Connell, Karyn Noble, Laura Noiret, Megan Eaves Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, Tom O’Malley, Ellie Simpson, Vicky Smith, Tracy Whitmey, Nav Sushil, Dora Whitaker ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1040

Index

108 Dagobas 868 animals 987-91 Băihóu 593 Dōngchéng Central 68-9, 798 Art District 87 animism 963 báijiǔ 108, 971, 972 71, 74-5, 78-9, 76-7 Ānjū Ancient Town 798 Báishā 700 Dōngchéng North 79, 82, 84, Ānshùn 652-4, 653 Báishuǐtái 711 80-1 A archaeological sites & Báiyù 761-2 Dōngchéng South 84, Aberdeen Promenade 511 85-6, ruins 938 Bamboo Sea 756-7 85 accommodation 29, 996-8, drinking 107-10 Army of Terracotta Bàojīng 651 see also individual Warriors 15, 391-2, Drum Tower 79, 82, 84, locations Bǎotíng 601-2 938, 15 80-1 Bāotóu 883 camping 129 Dàzú Buddhist Caves entertainment 110-11 bargaining 29 language 1032 795-6 food 64, 103-7 Barkhor 915-16 acrobatics 110, 111, 311, Gùyuán City Wall 873 highlights 66 327, 328, 553 Bāshā 646-7 Jiāohé 810 history 65 activities, see also Bayanhot 888-90 Melikawat Ruins 825 hútòng 20, 82, 83, individual activities beaches Rawaq 825 83, 20 agriculture 987 Bó’áo 603 Shuǐ Dòng Gōu 868 information 114-20 Ai Wei Wei 91, 283 Běihǎi 631 Wándū Mountain City itineraries 68, 83, 83 air pollution 99, 141 182 Fùjiāzhuāng Beach 159 language 65-8 air travel 1009-10, 1012 Xīníng City Wall 894 511, 515-16 nightlife 107-10 amusement parks Jīnshí Tān 159-60 architecture 982-4, see Sānlǐtún 91, 92-3 Harbin Culture Park 190 Pǔtuóshān 285 also palaces shopping 112-20 Hong Kong Qīngdǎo 224 art deco 295, 309, 312 sights 68-97 Disneyland 516 Rì Yuè Bay 605 colonial-era 345 Summer Palace 91, 94-5, Shànghǎi Disneyland Huīzhōu 402 Sānyà 605-6 308 96-7, 7, 31 imperial 31 Shíméi Bay 605 Window of the World 581 Temple of Heaven Park Lǐngnán 574-5 Xīngchéng Beach 173-4 84-5, 497, 496 Xīnghǎi Square 159 modern 75, 87, 91, 283, Yángjiāng 576 travel seasons 64 Zhōngshān Park 223 307, 506, 984 Yāntái 231 travel to/from 116-20 ancient settlements 32 religious 982-4 beer 227, 972, see also travel within 118-20 Fènghuáng 486 tǔlóu roundhouses 22, breweries walking tour 83, 83 Hóngcūn 407 347-9, 22 Běidàhú Ski Resort 183 Xīchéng North 86-9, 88 Píngyáo 371 Army of Terracotta Běihǎi 631-4, 632 Xīchéng South Qībǎo 310 Warriors 15, 391-2, Běihǎi Park 86-7, 88 89-91, 90 Shāxī 691 938, 15 Běihongcūn 199-200 Běijīng Book Bash 34 Zhènyuǎn 649 art galleries 976, see also Běijícūn 199 Bell Tower 79 Ānhuī 400-19, 401 museums & galleries Běijīng 20, 64-123, 66-7, Big Buddha 516 accommodation 400 arts 973-84 121, 2, 20, 664, 665 Bīngláng Valley 484 climate 400 ATMs 1003 accommodation 64, Bǐnglíng Sì 837 food 400 98-103 Bīngyù Valley 165 highlights 401 activities 98 B Bǐngzhōngluò 715 travel seasons 400 Běihǎi Park 86-7, Badain Jaran Desert 889 88 Bird Island 899 Bādálǐng 132 Cháoyáng 91, 92-3 birds 988-9 Bāguà Zhǎng 993-4 climate 64 bird-watching 989 Map Pages 000 Bái Tǎ 882 courses 97-8 Hong Kong 515, 989 Photo Pages 000 Báihé 177-9 Dashilar 89-91, 90 Nangchen 906 1041 Wēishān 683 Buddhist temples 982-3, Swallow’s Cavern 680 Gyantse Kumbum 925 Xīníng 899 662, see also temples Ten Thousand Buddha Kumbum Monastery Bìshǔ Shānzhuāng & monasteries Grotto 432 900 149 Bù’ěrjīn 828 Tiāntīshān Grottoes Potala Palace 915 Bó’áo 602-5 Bulang people 725 849-50 Wútún Sì 902 boat travel 33, 51-6, Bund, the 13, 291, 294-5, Xūmí Shān 873 Christianity 962-3 1011-12, 1013 298, 300-1, 296-7, Yúlín Grottoes 860 Chuāndǐxià 122-3 INDEX , , , boat trips 23, 51-6, 168, 300-1 12 300 301 Yúngāng Caves 363-4 Chungking Mansions 521 bus travel 1013, 1014 267, 616, 788, 52, Zhāngbì Underground churches & cathedrals

-business hours 27, 1004  B 55 ,23 Castle 376-7 Cathedral of the 426 Zhēnxiān Cave 405 Immaculate  C books 340, 934, 942, Zhījīn Cave 654 Conception 368 979-81 C cell phones 1005-6 Church of St Sophia Cáicūn 688 culture 955 ceramics 977-8 190 calligraphy 973-4 environment 987 Chagpo Ri 916 Dàtóng 361-2 camping 129 health 1021 Chákǎ Salt Lake 899 Holy Mother Church canal towns history 943, 945, 951 Chángbái Shān 177-80 364 Lìjiāng 693-700, 694, border crossings 1010-11 Chángbái Shān Protestant Church 223 699, 2 Dàlián 163 Canyon 179 Ruins of the Church of Lùzhí 260-1 St Paul 537-8 Dāndōng to South Chángchūn 183-5, 184 Korea 169 Mùdú 258-9 St John’s Cathedral Chángshā 473-6, 475 Harbin 194 Qībǎo 310 506-7 Cháozhōu 587-90, 589 Japan 228, 332, 1011 Sūzhōu 250-8, 252, St Joseph’s Church Charklik 823 78, 136 Kazakhstan 806, 1010 258 Cháyáng 592-3 St Joseph’s Seminary & Kyrgyzstan 818, 1010 Tónglǐ 259-60 Wūzhèn 277-9 Chen Clan Ancestral Church 538 Laos 675, 728, 1010 Hall 560 Zhōuzhuāng 261-2 St Michael’s Cathedral Mongolia 881, 887, Chéngdé 147-52, 148 221 1010 Cāngzhōu’s Iron Lion 146 Chéngdū 734-44, 736-7 Wéizhōu Catholic Myanmar (Burma) 721, language Chéngkǎn 404 Church 634 1010 1031-3 Chéngyáng Wind & Rain city walls Nepal 931, 1010 Cantonese opera 575 Bridge 619 Chángshā 473 North Korea 1010-11 car travel 1013-14 Cherchen 823-4 Cháozhōu 588 Pakistan 818, 1011 carpets 818, 825, 928 Cherry Blossom Chóngwǔ 354 Qīngdǎo 228 casinos 552 Festival 224 Dàtóng 361 cathedrals, see churches Russia 194, 1011 children, travel with 50, & cathedrals Gùyuán City Wall 873 South Korea 163, 114, 390 caves 873 Jīngzhōu 447 169,228, 234, 1011 China Fortune Wheel 903 Bezeklik Cave Complex Kāifēng 435 Taiwan 343, 356, Chinese Communist Party 810-11 Nánjīng 244 1012 (CCP) 945-7 Bǐnglíng Sì 837 Píngyáo 372 Tajikistan 818, 1011 Chinese medicine 269, Thailand 726 Chángchún Cave 683 282, 565, 998 Wǎnpíng Old Town 123 Vietnam 630, 635, Chuāndòng Sinkhole Chinese opera 247, 257, Xī’ān 381 675, 1011 637 327, 465, 571, 575 Xīngchéng Old City 173 breakfast 971 Dàshíwēi Sinkhole 637 Chìshuǐ 657-9 Xīníng City Wall 894 breweries 109, see also Dàzú Buddhist Caves Chiu village 932 climate 26, 34-7, 26 see 795-6 also individual regions beer Chóngqìng 782-98, 783 Huángguǒshù Falls 655 1/2 Sugar 895 accommodation 782 climbing 495, 684, 745, Kizil Thousand Buddha 757 Great Leap Brewing 108 climate 782 Caves 813 Coloane 546, 551 Jing A Brewing 109 food 782 Lǐjiā Shān 377 communism 963-4 Midtown Brewery 273 highlights 783 Lónggōng Cave 654 Confucianism 960-2 Slow Boat Brewery travel seasons 782 Taproom 108 Lóngmén Grottoes 431 temples 984 Chóngqìng City 784-95, Tsingtao Beer Museum Luómèi Lotus Cave 637 Confucius 216, 936 785, 786-7, 789 221 Màijī Shān 862-3 chörten consulates 999-1002 Bruce Lee Statue 660 Mǎtí Sì 852 108 Dagobas 868 costs 27 958-60 Mògāo Grottoes 858-60 Báitǎ Gōngyuán 771 Běijīng 65 temples 982-3 Nekhang 844 Gòngtáng Chörten 840 Héběi 135 958 Pǔtuóshān 285 Hēilóngjiāng 188 1042 costs continued Dàxū 616 Enning Road 561 Hǎinán 49 Jílín 177 Dàzú Buddhist Caves environmental issues 991 Hong Kong 48 Jǐ’nán 203 795-6 air pollution 99, 141 hotpot 790, 49 Liáoníng 159 Dégé 763-4 Ěrhǎi Lake 688-9, 689 Húnán 48 Tiānjīn Museum 135 Déhāng 485-6 ethnic minorities 33, 955 language 1028-9, 1032 courses demographics 956 etiquette 29, 971 lǎobà chá 608 INDEX INDEX cooking 50 Deng Xiaoping 125, 477, events, see festivals & Macau 48 612, 949, 950, 951 language 98 events noodles 791, 895, 492-3 Dēngfēng 425-8 martial arts 98, 310, Everest Base Camp Peking duck 492, 492 C- dengue 1022 929-30  519, 993 Qīnghǎi specialities G  credit cards 1003 Déqīn 711-14 exchange rates 27, 502, 895 538 cruises, see boat travel, deserts 986 regional cuisines boat trips Badain Jaran 889 965-70 cuisine, see food Gobi 860 Shaanxi 48 Cultural Revolution 943, Shāpōtóu 871 F Falun Gong 959 Shànghǎi 48 950-1 Taklamakan 815-16, 822 Fènghuáng 18, 486-9, Sìchuān 48 culture 934, 954-7 Tengger 872 487, 18 Uighur 829 books 955 dessert 971 ferries 1011-12, see also xiǎolóngbāo 493 currency 1003-4 Détiān Waterfall 636 boat travel Xīnjiāng 48 customs regulations 998 Diān Chí 677 festivals & events 34-7, Yúnnán 48 cycling 13, 1012-13 diāolóu 23, 576, 23 498 Forbidden City 11, 68-71, Běijīng 98 Diéshuǐ Waterfall 716 Cherry Blossom Festival 72, 70, 72-3, 10-11, 72, 224 Guìlín 616 dim sum 492, 14, 493 73, 664-5 Hǎikǒu 597 disabilities, travellers with Dàlián International forts, see also diāolóu Hǎinán 24, 603 1006 Beer Festival 160 Gyantse Dzong 925 Hong Kong 534 discount cards 75, 999 Festival of Aurora Tashkurgan Fort 821 Borealis 200 Lángmùsì 846 Disneyland Fóshān 571-2 Harbin Ice & Snow Macau 556 Hong Kong 516 Four Sisters Mountain Festival 191, 35, 498 Qīnghǎi 900 Shànghǎi 308 745-6 International Beer Fragrant Hills Park 95 Tiānjīn 137 Dragon’s Backbone Rice Festival 224 Terraces, see Lóngjǐ French Concession 16, Wùyuán 464 International Sailing Rice Terraces 299-302, 320-1, Yángshuò 13, 621 Week 225 16 Drepung Monastery 922 Friendship Hwy 929, 931 Nánjīng 245 drinks 47-50, 972 Fúgòng 714 Spring Festival 34, 35 beer 227 Fújiàn 22, 337-57, , D Sūzhōu 255 338 22 Dàbù 592 craft beer 109 accommodation 337 films 934, 943, 944, 981-2 Dàdōnghǎi 605-9, 606 language 1028-9, 1032 climate 337 Crouching Tiger, Dai people 725 Drölma-la 931 Hidden Dragon 406 food 337 Dàlǐ 684-8, , 685 689 Drum Tower (Běijīng) 79 Judou 406 highlights 338 Dàlián 159-63, 161, 164 Dūjiāngyàn 744-5 martial arts 993 travel seasons 337 Dálǐjiā Mountain 845 Dúlóng Valley 715 Painted Veil, The 627 Fújiàn Tǔlóu 347-50 Dàměnglóng 729 dumplings 895 Raise the Red Lantern Fúróng Zhèn 490 Dānbā 762-3 Dūnhuáng 13, 855-8, 371 Fúzhōu 355-6 Dāndōng 165-74, 167 856, 13 Fisherman’s Wharf 159 dangers, see safety Fishing Town Fortress 794 Dǎngjiācūn 397 food 15, 30, 47-50, G galleries see art galleries, Dàochéng 769-70 E 492-3, 965-72, 1002, economy 166, 934-5 museums & galleries Dàowéi Tibetan 14, 49, 493, 664, Ganden Monastery 922-3 Village 845 electricity 999 see also individual Gānjiā Grasslands 844 Darchen 931-2 Èlíng Lake 908 locations embassies 999-1002 Běijīng 48 Gānsù 832-63, 833 Dartsendo 757-61, 759 accommodation 832 Dashilar 90 Éméi Shān 746-50, 747 Chóngqìng 48 Emerald Lake 711 cooking courses 50 climate 832 Dàtóng 360-3, 361 emergencies 27 dim sum 492, 14, 493 food 832 language 1029, 1032 etiquette 971 highlights 833 Map Pages 000 Emin Minaret 808 Gānsù 48 travel seasons 832 Photo Pages 000 Ēnhé 886 Guǎngzhōu 48 Gānzī 764-5 1043 Gāochāng 810 Guìzhōu 638-59, 639 highlights 134 Opium Wars 940 gardens, see parks & accommodation 638 travel seasons 133 940, gardens climate 638 Héféi 418-19 942-3 gay travellers 1002 food 638 Hēijǐng 678 Republic of China 944-6 Giant Panda Breeding highlights 639 Hēilóngjiāng 186-200 Shāndōng 202 Research Base 734 travel seasons 638 highlights 187, 187 Song dynasty 939-40 glaciers 693, 712, 758, INDEX Gǔlàng Yǔ 344-6, 341 Hēiwǎé Dǎo 704 Taiping Rebellion 943 765 Guōdá Shān 758 Hèlán Shān 870 Tang dynasty 938-9 GLBTIQ travellers 1002 Guōliàngcūn 433-4 Hémù 830 Tiān’ānmén Sq protests -Gobi Desert 860 952  G Guōyù 378 Hénán 420-39,

H  421 Golmud 907-8 Tiānjīn 135 Gùyuán 872-4 accommodation 420 Grand Buddha 22, 22 WWI 945 Gyantse 925-6 climate 420 Great Wall, the 11, 30, food 420 Hohhot 877-82, 879 124-32, 130-1, 125 highlights 421 holidays 1004-5 Bādálǐng 132, 11 H travel seasons 420 Hóngcūn 407-8 camping 129 Hābā 704 Héng Shān 478-80 Hóngjiāng Old Town Gǔběikǒu 127 Hǎikǒu 596-9, 597 489-90 hepatitis A 1022 hiking 130-1 Hǎilā’ěr 884-6 Hong Kong 17, 499-535, hepatitis B 1022 history 124-5 Hǎinán 24, 594-609, 500-1, 503, 4, 17, Héshùn 716 Huánghuā Chéng 130-2 595, 25 494 Héxī Corridor 848-61 Jiànkòu 127-8 accommodation 594 Aberdeen 510-11 Hézuò 844-5 Jiǎo Shān Great Wall climate 594 accommodation 499, hiking 15, 17, 30, 494-5 519-23 153-4 food 594 Déqīn 712 activities 516-19 Jiāyùguān 853 highlights 595 Éméi Shān 748 Jīnshānlǐng 129-30, travel seasons 594 Admiralty 504-5 Great Wall, The 130-1 660-1 Hāmì 811 Causeway Bay 508 Hángzhōu 272 Jiǔménkǒu Great Wall Han Chinese 954 Central District 502-7, 156 Hong Kong 516-17, 504-5 Han dynasty 937 494 Mùtiányù 126 Huángshān 411-13 Cheung Chau 516 Hánchéng 397-8 Sānguānkǒu 890 Jiǔhuá Mountain 416 climate 499 Hángzhōu 265-76, 268-9, Tiger Mountain Great drinking 527-8 662 Lángmùsì 846 Wall 166 itineraries 266 Macau 548 entertainment 528-9 Zhuàngdàokǒu 128-9 Hani people 725 Mt Amnye Machen 907 events 519 Guǎngdōng 557-93, 558 Happy Valley Racecourse Mt Tàishì 427 festivals 519 accommodation 557 509 Nánlǐng 580 food 499, 523-7 climate 557 Harbin 188-95, 189 Sānqīng Shān 467 highlights 500-1 food 557 Harbin Ice & Snow Festival Sìchuān 757 history 502 highlights 558 191, 35, 498 Tài Shān 211-13 itineraries 507 travel seasons 557 health 1020-5 Tiger Leaping Gorge 511-13, 510 Guǎngjǐ Bridge 588 altitude sickness 776 701-4, 494 Lamma 516 Guǎngxī 610-37, 611, 660 books 1021 Wùyuán 466 Lantau 515-16 accommodation 610 clinics 1022 Xīshuāngbǎnnà 727 513-15 climate 610 environmental hazards history 936-53 nightlife 527-8 food 610 1023-5 21st century 953 Peak, the 507-9 highlights 611 infectious diseases Běijīng 65 Sheung Wan 504-5 travel seasons 610 1022-3 books 943, 945 shopping 529-31 Guǎngyuán 781 insurance 1020 Chinese Communist sights 502-16 Guǎngzhōu 559-71, 562-3, medications 1022 Party (CCP) 945-7 tourist information 567 traveller’s diarrhoea Cultural Revolution 531-3 Guānkēng 466 1023 950-1 tours 519 Guānlán Original vaccinations 1020-1 early empires 937 travel seasons 499 Printmaking Base 585 websites 1021 Great Wall, the 124-5 travel to/from 533 960 women’s health 1025 Hēilóngjiāng 188 travel within 534-5 Gǔběikǒu 127 Héběi 133-56, 142-56, Jílín 176-7 Victoria Harbour 17, 17 Guìdé 903-4 134 Kuomintang rule 948-9 walking tour 518, 518 Guìlín 612-16, 613 accommodation 133 Liáoníng 159 Wan Chai 509-10, 508 Guìyáng 640-3, 642 food 133 Ming dynasty 939-42 Yau Ma Tei 512 1044 horse riding & trekking Forbidden City 11, 68-71, Jìngpò Lake 195-7 Kanas Lake 829-30 Ēnhé 886 72, 70, 72-3, 10-11, Jīngzhōu 447-8 Karakul Lake 821 Kanas Village 830 72, 73, 664-5 Jīnhuá 283-4 Sayram Lake 831 Shěnyáng Imperial Lángmùsì 846 Jīnshā River 494 Third Lake 198 Palace 170 Sōngpān 773-5 Jīnshānlǐng 129-30, 660-1 West Lake 265-6 Summer Palace 91, Tǎgōng 766-7 Jinuo people 725 landlines 1006 INDEX INDEX 94-5, 96-7, 7, 31 Xīlāmùrén 882 landscapes 985-91 Inner Mongolia 875-90, Jiǔhuá Shān 415-17 hot springs 876 Jiǔménkǒu Great Wall 156 Lángmùsì 845-7 Èrdào Hot Springs 758 Jiǔzhàigōu National Park language 29, 1026-36

H- accommodation 875  Huángshān Hot Springs 17, 777-80, 777 17 Běijīng 65-8 L climate 875  412-13 food 875 Jokhang Temple 915, 496 Cantonese 1031-3 Lǐtáng 771 highlights 876, 876 courses 98 Mission Hills Resort travel seasons 875 Mongolian 1034 596-7 K Tibet 914 insurance Kāifēng 434-9, 436 Rónghuì Hot Springs Tibetan 1033 788 health 1020 Kǎilǐ 644-6, 645 Uighur 801-2, 1034 Rúbùzhákǎ Hot Springs internet access 1002 Kāipíng 23, 572-6, 23 Lángzhōng 780-1 769 Islam 963 Kanas Lake 829-30 Lánzhōu 834-8, 835 Sea of Heat 718 itineraries 38-46, 38, Kanas Village 830 , , , , , Láo Shān 229-31 Xīdāng 712 39 40 41 42-3 44 Kanbula National Park , lǎobà chá 608 Hotan 824-7, 825 45 46 901 Běijīng 68 Laotzu (Laozi) 936 hotpot 790, 49 Kāngdìng 757-61, 759 Hángzhōu 266 legal matters 1002-3 HSBC Building 506 kǎobǐng 895 Léishān 647 Huā Mountain Cliff Murals Karakoram Highway 20, 634-5 819-22, 20 Lee, Bruce 514, 561, 571, J 572, 994, Huángguǒshù Falls 654-5 Karghilik 827-8 661 Jade Dragon Snow lesbian travellers 1002 Huánghuā Chéng 130-2 Mountain 693 Kashgar 814-19, 815 Lè Shān 22, 750-2, Huángshān 17, 410-15, Japanese B encephalitis Kawa Karpo 711-14 751, 22 411, 17, 495 1022 Khan, Genghis 938 Lèyè 636-7 Huángyáo 627-8 Jí’ān 181-3 Khara Khoto 889 Lhasa 24, 915-22, 916, Huá Shān 394-7, 395 Jiāngsū 236-62, 237 kora 919, 25 Húběi 440-53, 441 accommodation 236 Barkhor Circuit 915-16 accommodation 917-18 accommodation 440 climate 236 Ganden Kora 923 activities 915-17 climate 440 food 236 Lake Manasarovar 932 drinking 920 food 440 highlights 237 Mt Kailash 931-2 events 917 highlights 441 travel seasons 236 Princess Wencha festivals 917 travel seasons 440 Jiāngtóuzhōu 616 Temple 905 food 918-20 Hui 17, 399 Kowloon 511-13, 510 Jiāngxī 454-70, 455 information 921 Húnán 471-90, 472 Kumbum Monastery 900 accommodation 454 itineraries 917 accommodation 471 Kūnmíng 669-76, 670-1, climate 454 nightlife 920 climate 471 676 food 454 shopping 920 food 471 Kuqa 812-13 highlights 455 sights 915-17 highlights 472 travel seasons 454 tours 917 travel seasons 471 Jiànkòu 127-8 L travel to/from 921-2 hútòng 20, 82, 83, 83, 20 Jiànshuǐ 678-80 Labrang Monastery 21, travel within 922 Hùzhù Běishān Forest Jiǎo Shān Great Wall 21, 497 Lhatse 929 National Park 901 153-4 Lai Chi Wo 513-14 Li people 601 Jiāyùguān 852-5, 853 Láitān 796 Lí River 13, 625, 12 Jiěgào 721 I Lake Manasarovar 932 Lí Riverside Path 621 Jílín 175-85, 176 immigration 1006-8, 1009 lakes Liáoníng 157-74, 158 highlights 176 imperial architecture Barkol Lake 811 highlights 158 Jīmíngyì 155-6 Bìshǔ Shānzhuāng 149 Bulungkol Lake 821 Liddell, Eric 136 Jǐ’nán 203-6, 204 Dàmíng Lake 203 Lìjiāng 693-700, 694, Jìnchéng 378 Green Deep Pool 178-9 699, 2 Jǐngdézhèn 460-3, 461 Map Pages 000 Heaven Lake 178 Lǐngjiǎo 464 Jǐnghóng 723-7, Photo Pages 000 724 Hòuhǎi Lakes 87-8 Lǐngnán culture 574-5, 575 1045 Línxià 843 markets Shànghǎi Tower 307 Tàipíng Hill 224 Lǐtáng 770-2 Hotan 825 Mògànshān 276-7 Tài Shān 211-14 literature 934, 979-81, see Kashgar 814 Mògāo Grottoes 858-60 Thousand Buddha also books Kuqa 812 Mòhé 199-200 Mountain 203-4 Little Lǐkēng 465 Shigatse 928 monasteries 32, see Mt Amnye Machen 907 Liúgōng 626-7 Temple Street Night also temples Mt Everest 929 Liǔjiāng 752-3 Market 512 Dana Gompa 906 Mt Kailash 24, 931-2, 24 INDEX Liùkù 714 Tianjin Jie Night Drepung Monastery 922 Mǔdānjiāng 195 Lǐwùbǐ Dǎo 704 Market 162 Drogon Gompa 904 Mùdú 258-9 -Lónghǔ Shān 468-70 Yuen Po Street Bird Gading Gompa 906 Mukden incident 171  L M  Lóngjǐ ­Rice Terraces 15, Garden & Flower Ganden Monastery museums & galleries 32, Market 512 617-19, 14 922-3 220-1, 231, 953, 976 Lónglǐ 647 Zhōngwèi 872 Gar Gompa 906 AFA (Art for All Society) Lóngnán 470 martial arts 98, 425-7, Gomar Gompa 902 538 992-4, see also taichi Lúgū Lake 704-5 Jyekundo Dondrubling Alashan Museum 888 Mǎtí Sì 852 Luótiáncūn 459 Monastery 904 Ancient Beds Museum mausoleums & 278 Luòyáng 428-31, 429 Kumbum Monastery memorials 191 900 Arrow Factory 82-4 Lúshān 459-60 Chairman Mao Lǚshùn 163 Nechung Monastery Aurora Museum 307 Memorial Hall 74 922 Lùzhí 260-1 Běijīng Cultural & Art Confucius Forest 216-17 Pabonka Monastery Centre 82 Genghis Khan 923-4 Běijīng Police Museum Mausoleum 884 M Pelkor Chöde 79 Mausoleum of General Monastery 925 Běijīng Railway Museum Macau 536-56, 537, Yue Fei 270 540-1, 544 Rongphu Monastery 85-6 Mausoleum of the 930 Capital Museum 89 accommodation 536, Nányuè King 561 549-50 Sakya Monastery 929 Cherchen Museum 823 Memorial Hall of the Samye Monastery 924 activities 548 Nánjīng Massacre China Great Wall climate 536 242-3 Sera Monastery 923-4 Museum 132 drinking 552 Soviet Martyrs Tashilhunpo Monastery China Sculpture 926 Museum 361 entertainment 553 Cemetery 165 Wútún Sì 902 China Silk Museum 269 events 548-9 Sun Yatsen Mausoleum Yòuníng Monastery 898 Chinese Footbinding festivals 548-9 243-4 money 26-7, 29, 999, Culture Museum 278 food 536, 550-2 Tomb of Emperor Jingdi 394 1003-4 Chinese Navy Museum highlights 537 Méizhōu 590-2 money changers 1004 221 nightlife 552 memorials, see Mongolian language 1034 Chinese Sex Culture shopping 553-4 mausoleums & Monlam Great Prayer Museum 259 sights 537-48 memorials Festival 34 Confucius Mansion 216 tourist information Mencius 219-20 mosques Dinosaur Museum 754 554-5 Měnghǎn 728 Dōngguān Grand Folk Art Museum 136 tours 548 Měnglà 728-9 Mosque 894 Forest of Stelae travel seasons 536 Měnglún 728 Great Mosque 382 Museum 382 travel to/from 5 Mián Shān 375-6 Great Mosque (Kuqa) Governor’s House 55-6 812 Museum 221 Miao people 601, 31 travel within 556 Great Wall Museum Ming dynasty 939-42 Great Southern Mosque Mǎduō 908 203 154 Ming Tombs 120-2 Màijī Shān 862-3 Id Kah Mosque 814-15 Gùyuán Museum 873 mobile phones 1005-6 malaria 1022 Niújiē Mosque 90-1 Hāmì Museum 811 modern architecture 984 Man Mo Temple 507-9 Rasta Mosque 812 Han Dynasty Brick 798 Art District 87 Mandarin language Shǎnxī Mosque 831 Museum 221 Bird’s Nest 91 1026-31 Tóngxīn 874 Héběi Provincial CCTV Headquarters 91 Museum 142 Mǎnígāngē 765-6 motorcycle travel 1013-14 Galaxy Soho 75 Hong Kong Heritage Mǎnzhōulǐ 886-7 mountains 985-6 HSBC Building 506 Museum 514 Mao Zedong 473, 477, Jùfēng 230 949-51, 963-4 Jīnhuá Architecture Hong Kong Maritime Mt Amnye Machen 907 Museum 506 Mào’ér Mountain 180 Park 283 Mt Everest 929 Hong Kong Museum of Maoism 963-4 Oriental Pearl TV Tower 307 Mt Kailash 24, 931-2, 24 History 513 1046 museums & galleries Shànghǎi Museum 294 Jiǔzhàigōu National Nù Jiāng Valley 713-15 continued Shànghǎi Natural Park 17, 777-80, Nuòdèng 690-1 Húběi Provincial History Museum 303 777, 17 Museum 442 Shànghǎi Urban Kanbula National Park Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Planning Exhibition 901 O Medicine Museum Hall 294 Láifēng Shān National OCT-LOFT 581

INDEX INDEX 269 Shǐjiā Hútòng Forest Park 716 Old Dragon Head 154 Imperial Examinations Museum 75 Lèyè Geopark 637 Olympics 952 History Museum Sūzhōu Art Meili Snow Mountain one-child policy 956-7 242-3 Museum 251 M- National Park 711 opening hours 27, 1004  Imperial Palace of the Sūzhōu Museum 251 Mòmògé National ,P Manchu State 183 opera 247, 257, 327, 465  Sūzhōu Silk Museum Nature Reserve 198 571, 575 Japanese Germ Warfare 253 Nánlǐng National Forest Opium Wars 940 Experimental Base Taiping Heavenly Park 580 191 Kingdom History Qī Xiān Lǐng Hot Spring Jí’ān Museum 182 Museum 241-2 Forest Park 601-2 Jiāngnán Wood Carving P Tiānjīn Museum 135 Shǔnán Zhúhǎi National packing 28 Museum 277-8 Park 756 Tibetan Culture & , see also temples Jǐ’nán Museum 203-35 Medicine Museum Shuāngqiáo Valley 745 & monasteries Kūnqǔ Opera Museum 893-4 Sūyùkǒu National Bái Tǎ 882 255 Tsingtao Beer Forest Park 870 Chéngtiānsì Pagoda Luòyáng Museum 429 Museum 221 Wǔlíngyuán Scenic & 867 Lǚshùn Museum 164 Wàncuìlóu Museum 402 Historic Interest Area Hǎibǎo Pagoda 866-7 M50 303 Xiānnóng Altar & Běijīng 480-2 painting 435, 560, 974-7 Macau Museum of Ancient Architecture Xiànghǎi National Lǐngnán 574 Art 542 Museum 89-90 Nature Reserve 198 palaces Museum of the Ming Xīnjiāng Autonomous Yǎdān National Park Tombs 120 Region Museum 803 860-1 Bishop’s Palace 539 Museum of the War Yāntái Folk Custom Yàdīng Nature Dài Wángfǔ 361 of Chinese People’s Museum 231 Reserve 770 Forbidden City 11, 68-71, Resistance Against music 352 Yāzikǒu 451 72, 70, 72-3, 10-11, Japanese Aggression music festivals 584 Zhālóng Nature 72, 73, 664-5 123 Mùtiányù 126 Reserve 198 Imperial Palace of the Museum to Zhāngjiājiè 16, 480-5, Manchu State 183 Commemorate US 481, 16 Potala Palace 915 Aggression 167-8 N Zhāngyē Dānxiá Presidential Palace 239 Nánjīng Museum 239 Naadam 34, 36 National Geopark Shěnyáng Imperial National Museum of Nánchāng 456-9, 457 851 Palace 170 China 74 Nánchāng Uprising 458 natural springs Summer Palace 91, Poly Art Museum 78 Nangchen 906 Wángfǔ Pool 203 94-5, 96-7, 7, 31 Propaganda Poster Art Nánjiēcūn 425 Naxi people 696, 663 pandas 547-8, 734, 753, Centre 302 988 Nánjīng 238-50, 240-1 Nepal 931 Qīngdǎo City Art parks & gardens 167 Nánníng 628-31, 629 Ngari 924, 930-2 Museum 223 Bàotū Spring 204 Nánxún 279-80 night markets Qīngdǎo Municipal Běihǎi Park 86-7 Museum 223 National Centre for the Gùyuán 874 Běijīng Botanic Performing Arts 665 Nine Dragon Screen 360 Rìshēngchāng Financial Gardens 95-7 House Museum 373 Nationalism 964 Níngbō 288-9 Běilíng Park 170 Rockbund Art Museum national parks & reserves Níngxià 864-74, 865 Blue Wave Pavilion 254 295 Bājiăozhài National accommodation 864 Chángchūn World Sānxīngduī Museum 743 Geopark 617 climate 864, 866 Sculpture Park 183 Shāndōng Museum 203 Chángbái Shān 177-80 food 864 Confucius Cave 217 Shànghǎi Gallery of Art Chángpíng Valley 745 highlights 865, 865 Couple’s Garden 254 295-8 Guìdé National history 866 Shànghǎi History Geological Park 903 Five Dragon Pool Park travel seasons 864 204 Museum 307-8 Hǎizi Valley 745 noodles 791, 895, 492-3 Fragrant Hills Park 95 Huánglóng National North Korea 168 Park 780 Garden of Harmony 254 Northern Garzê Prefecture Garden of the Master of Map Pages Hùzhù Běishān Forest 000 761-8 the Nets 251 Photo Pages National Park 901 000 novels 979 Garden to Linger In 254 1047 Hong Kong Global calendar of events 34-7 Dàlǐ 684 Shāndōng 201-35, 202 Geopark 513 China’s regions 57-62 Kanas Village 830 highlights 202 Hong Kong Park 509 first-time travellers 28-9 Shāpōtóu 871 Shàngdū 882-3 Hong Kong Wetland internet resources 27 Wǔyíshān 357 Shànghǎi 16, 290-336, Park 515 itineraries 38 Yellow River 871, 872 292-3, 16, 662 Hóngshān Park 803 travel seasons 26, 34-7 Zhāngjiājiè 481, 482 accommodation 290, INDEX INDEX Huánchéng Park 204 plants 989-90 refunds 1004 311-18 Humble Administrator’s Po Lin Monastery 516 religion 32, 935, 958-64, activities 310-11 Garden 251 poetry 979 982-4 Bund, the 13, 291, 294- -Jǐngshān Park 75 5, 298, 300-1, 296-7,  P politics 935 reserves, see national Kowloon Park 513 300-1, 12, 300, 301  S Polo, Marco 939 parks & reserves Little Fish Hill 224 climate 290 population 935, 956 Rì Yuè Bay 605 Liùpán Shān Guójiā costs 291 postal services 1004 rivers 986-7 Sēnlín Gōngyuán 873 drinking 323-6 Potala Palace 915, rock carvings Ming Palace Ruins 239 25 entertainment 326-8 Prime Minister Chen’s Chagpo Ri 916 People’s Park events 311 Castle 378 Dàzú Buddhist Caves (Ürümqi) 803 festivals 311 Princess Wencheng 795-6 Potala Palace 915, 25 Temple 905-6 Hèlán Shān 870 food 290, 318-23 Rìtán Park 91 propaganda 975 Lóngmén Grottoes 431 French Concession 16, Signal Hill Park 224 299-302, 320-1, 324- public holidays 1004-5 Màijī Shān 862 Sun Island Park 190 6, 304-5, 16 Pǔtuóshān 284-8, 286, Princess Wencheng Sunlight Rock Park highlights 292-3, 292-3 661 Temple 905-6 344-5 rock climbing history 291 Temple of Heaven Park Yángshuò 621, 495 Hóngkǒu 309 84-5, 497, 496 Q Rock, Joseph 709 itineraries 294 Tiger Hill 254 Qiántáng River Tidal Ruìlì 719-21, 719 Jìng’ān 303-6, 316, 321- Tuìsī Garden 260 Bore 274 2, 326, ruins, see archaeological 317 West Lake 588 Qiao Family Courtyard 371 sites & ruins nightlife 323-6 Workers Cultural Qībǎo 310 north Shànghǎi 309 Palace 74 Qìgōng 993 Old Town 298-9, 314, Wǔcháomén Park 239 Qikŏu 377-8 S 319-20, 324 Wǔyí Shān Scenic Qin Shi Huang 937 safety 1005 People’s Square 291, Area 356 Qīngdǎo 220-9, 222 Xīnjiāng 802 294-5, 298, 296-7 Xuánwǔ Lake Park 243 Qing dynasty 940, 942-3 Saga 924 Pǔdōng 306-9, 316-17, Yāntái Hill Park 231 322-3, 308 Qīnghǎi 891-908, 892 Sakya 929 Yúyìn Mountain Villa 571 Shanghai Station 314 climate 891 Samye Monastery 924 Yùyuán Gardens 298-9 shopping 328-31 food 895 Sānbà 704 Zhān Garden 241 sights 291-310 highlights 892, 892 Sānfāng Qīxian 355 Zhāolín Park 190 tourist information history 893 Sāngkē Grasslands 844 Zhōngshān Park 223-4 331-2 travel seasons 891 Sānjiāng 619-20 passports 1006-8 tours 311 travel to/from 893 Sānqīng Shān 467-8 Peak Tram 503-6 travel seasons 290 travel within 893 Sānyà 605-9, 606 Peking duck 492, 492 travel to/from 332-4 Qīnghǎi Lake 899-900 Sānyuèsān Festival 604 Pénglái 234-5 travel within 334-5 Qīnghǎi–Tibet train line Sayram Lake 831 West Nanjing 317 Peony festival 35 923 schistosomiasis Shanghai Street 511 philosophy 958-64 Qīnghuá 466 (bilharzia) 1023 Shangri-la 706-10, ping pong 946 Qīngyán 643-4 sculpture 460, 978 707 Shānhǎiguān 152-5, Ping Shan Heritage Trail Qīngyuǎn 580 Sea of Heat 718 153 514-15 Shàntóu 593 Qīnwáng Fǔ 888 Sèdá 766 Píngliáng 863 Qíyún Shān 405 Sera Monastery 923-4 Shānxī 358-78, 359 Píngshān 408-9 accommodation 358 Quánzhōu 350-3, 351 Shaanxi 379-99, 380 Píngxiáng 635-6 climate 358 Qūfù 214-19, 215 accommodation 379 Píngyáo 19, 371-5, 372, climate 379 food 358 , 19 491 food 379 highlights 359 planning, see R highlights 380 travel seasons 358 also individual regions rabies 1022-3 travel seasons 379 Sháoshān 476-8 basics 26-7 rafting Shāmiàn Island 560 Shàoxīng 289 budgeting 27 1048 Shāpōtóu 871 T God of Wealth Temple Sleeping Buddha Shāxī 691-3 table tennis 946 155 Temple 96-7 Shénnóngjià 451-2 Tǎgōng 766-8 Guāndì Temple 150, 350 Tàiqīng Palace 230 Shěnyáng 169-73, 170, Tài Shān 23, 211-14, Guǎnghuì Temple 145-6 Tǎyuàn Temple 367 665 212, 23 Guǎngrén Temple 382 Temple of Bliss 190 Shēnzhèn 581-5, 583 Tài’ān 207-11, 208 Hanging Monastery 365 Temple of Eternal INDEX INDEX Tranquility 155-6 Shèxiàn 409-10 taichi 449 Huàchéng Sì 416 Temple of Heaven Park Shì Wěi 887-90 Taipa 546-7, 547 Huáyán Temple 362 84-5, 497, 496 Shigatse 926-9, 927 Tàishùn County 280 Huìjì Temple 285 S-T Temple of Mystery 253  Shíjiāzhuāng 142-5, 143 Tàiyuán 368-71, 369 Jade Buddha Temple ,Temple of Sumeru 303-6  Shílín 677-8 Taklamakan Desert Jīmíng Temple 243 Happiness & Shíméi Bay 605 815-16, 822 Longevity 151 Jīmíngyì Museum 155 Shipton’s Arch 816 Tang dynasty 938-9 Temple of the Chief Shùhé 701 Taoism 961 Jìncí Temple 371 Minister 435 Jìng’ān Temple 303 Sìchuān 730-81, 732-3 temples 983-4 Temple of the Eight accommodation 730 Tashilhunpo Monastery Jǐnjiāng Pagoda 166 Immortals 383-5 climate 730 926 Jokhang Temple 915 Tiānhòu Temple 221 food 730 taxes 1004 Kāiyuán Temple 145, Tiānníng Temple 145 351 highlights 732-3 taxis 1014 Twin Pagoda Temple/ Labrang Monastery travel seasons 730 tea 972 Yǒngzuò Temple 368 839-41 Silk Road 18, 820-1, 822-8, Tea Horse Road 691 Twin Pagodas 253 Temple 79 937, 18 telephone services 1005-6 White Cloud Temple 89 Léifēng Pagoda 269 silkworms 941 Temple of Heaven Park White Horse Temple Lìjiāng 699 Singing Sands Dune 860 84-5, 497, 496 432-3 Línggǔ Temple Scenic Sìpíng 283 temples 32, 79-82, 90, Wǔtǎ Pagoda 878 220, 497, 982-4, see Area 244-5 Wǔtái Shān 366-7 Sir Robert Ho Tung Língyǐn Temple 266-7 Library 538-9 also monasteries Xiǎntōng Temple 367 Línjì Temple 145 Sīxī 466-7 Bǎisuì Gōng 416 Xīnguóchán Temple 203 Lóngxīng Temple 145 skiing 177, 183, 196 Bakong Scripture Xītiān Fánjìng 86-7 Printing Press & Miàoyīng Temple White Yak Butter Scripture socialist realism 975 Monastery 763 Dagoba 89 Temple 900 Song dynasty 939-40 Bamboo temple 677 Míngyuè Temple 259 Yán Temple 217 Sōng Shān 425-8 Bǎochù Pagoda 270 Monastery of Deep Sōngjiānghé 179-80 Yarchen Gar Buddhist Big Goose Pagoda 383 Compassion 136 Institute 768 Sōngpān 773-7, 774 Black Dragon Temple Mùtǎ Tower 365 Yu Ancestral Hall 147 Southern Garzê 377 Nánchán Sì 894 Yuánguāng Temple 873 Prefecture 768-73 Cǎo’ān Manichaean Nánpǔtuó Temple 340 Zhènguó Temple 376 spirits 972 Temple 354 North Temple Pagoda Zhìhuà Temple 75 sporting events Chi Lin Nunnery 513 254 Zhīyuán Temple 416 Great Wall Marathon City God Temple 373, Pearl Pagoda 260 Zhōngyuè Temple 427 137 398 Princess Wencheng Spring Festival 34, 35 Confucius Temple Temple 905-6 Téngchōng County 716- 19, 717 Star Ferry 515 (Hánchéng) 397-8 Pǔjì Temple 284 Tengger Desert 872 stilt houses 792, 797 Confucius Temple Pǔlè Temple 151 Terracotta Warriors 15, , see chörten (Quánzhōu) 351 Pǔníng Temple 150 391-2, 938, 15 Summer Palace 91, 94-5, Confucius Temple Pǔtuózōngchéng Three Gorges Dam 53, 96-7, 7, 31 (Qūfù) 214-16 Temple 150-1 452 surfing 37, 605, 607 Confucius Temple Qīxiá Temple 249 (Tiānjīn) 137 Tiān Shān 807-8 Sūzhōu 250-8, 252, 258 Quánfú Temple 261 Dà Zhào 878 Tiān’ānmén Square 74 synagogues Residence of the Darjay Gompa 764 Tiānjīn 133-56, 135-42, Harbin Main Synagogue Celestial Masters 469 134, 138 190-1 Dōngyuè Temple 91 Shànhuà Temple 362 Duōbǎo Pagoda 285 accommodation 133, Shàolín Temple 425 137-9 Fǎmén Temple 393 Shuānglín Temple 376 activities 137 Fǎyǔ Temple 284 Sik Sik Yuen Tai climate 133 Gāo Temple 870 Sin Temple 512-13 Map Pages drinking 140 000 Giant Buddha Temple Six Harmonies Pagoda events 137 Photo Pages 000 850 269 1049 festivals 137 Ming Tombs 120-2 Lǎohēi Shān 197 Wǔtái Shān 365-8, 366 food 133, 139-40 Míng Xiàolíng Tomb 245 Lóngmén ‘Stone Village’ Wǔwēi 848-9 highlights 134 North Tomb 171 197 Wǔyí Shān 356-7 information 141-2 Zaghunluq Ancient Mǎzhàn Volcanoes 718 Wùyuán 463-4, 465 nightlife 140 Mummy Tomb 823-4 Wéizhōu Island 634 Wūzhèn 277-9 shopping 140-2 Zhāo Líng 121 Wēnbó Lake 197-8 Wǔzhǐshān 600 INDEX INDEX sights 135-7 Tónglǐ 259-60 Wǔdàlián Chí 197-8 WWII 948-9 travel seasons 133 Tōnglíng Grand Canyon travel to/from 141-2 636 -Tóngrén 901-3 W X  T travel within 142  Y walking, see hiking Xī Shān 677 Tiānlóng 655 Tóngxīn 874 walking tours Xiàguān 682-3 Tiānlóng Xuétáng 655-6 tour agencies Běijīng 72, 83, 83 Xiàhé 839-44, Tiānshuǐ 861-2 Tibet 913 840 Hong Kong 518, 518 Xiàmén 339-44, Tiánzǐfáng 299-302 tourist information 1006 341 traditional medicine 839 Wanda Chángbái Shān Xī’ān 381-91, 384, 392 Tibet 909-32 International Resort train travel 1015-19 Xiāngchéng 772 accommodation 909 196 Qīnghǎi-Tibet 923 xiǎolóngbāo climate 909, 914 Wāngkǒu 464 493 transport 27 Xiǎoqǐ 464 food 909 Wǎnpíng Town 123 language 1030-1, 1033 Xīdì 406-7 highlights 910, 910 water 990, 1024 safety 1005 Xīhǎi Zhèn 900 history 911, 914 waterfalls Trans-Siberian Railway 1019 Xījiāng 647-8 language 914 Chángbái Waterfall 178 travellers cheques 1004 Xīngchéng 173-4 tour agencies 913 Cháoyīn Waterfall 230 travel to/from China Xīnglóng 609 travel restrictions Détiān Waterfall 636 1009-12 Xìngpíng 627 912-13, 920, 925 Diàoshuǐlóu travel within China travel seasons 909 Waterfall 196 Xīngyì 656 1012-14 travel to/from 914 Fúróng Zhèn Xīníng 893-9, 896 trekking, see hiking, horse Waterfall 490 Xīnjiāng 799-831, 800 travel within 914 riding & trekking Liúshā Waterfall 485 accommodation 799 Tibet travel restrictions Tsang 925-30 925 Sāndiéquán climate 799 Tsim Sha Tsui East Tibet, travel to 710, 762 Waterfall 460 food 799 Promenade 511, 660 Shízhàngdòng Tibetan language 1033 Tsingtao beer 227 highlights 800 Waterfall 658 Tiěxī Gorge 651 tǔlóu 347-50, 348 travel seasons 799 Tiger Leaping Gorge 20, weather 34-7, see Xīntiāndì 302 tǔlóu roundhouses 22, also individual regions 494, 701-4, 702, 20, 347-9, Xīnyè 281 22 websites 494 Xīshuāngbǎnnà 722, 723 Túnxī 402-6, 403 health 1021 Tiger Mountain Great Xǐzhōu 690 Wall 166 Turpan 808-9, 809 Wei dynasty 937-8 Xuán Villa 590 tigers 191 Tuyoq 810 Wēiníng 656-7 typhoid 1023 Xújiāhuì & South time 26, 803, 1006 Wēishān 683 Shànghǎi 309-10 Tingri 930-1 Wéizhōu Dǎo 634 Xūmí Shān 873 tipping 29, 1004 U West Lake 662 tombs Ü 924 Western Xià Tombs 867 Abakh Hoja Mausoleum Uighur language 1034 wildlife 987-91 Y 814 Yǎ’ān 753-4 Ürümqi 802-7, 804 wildlife reserves Cemetery of Noblemen Giant Panda Breeding Yàbùlì Ski Resort 196 at Yǔshān 182 Research Base 734 yak milk yoghurt 895 Cháng Líng 120 V Yǎ’ān Bìfēngxiá Panda Yánbiān Korean Autono- Dìng Líng 120 vacations 1004-5 Base 753 mous Prefecture 178 Hāmì Kings Mausoleum vegetarians 50 wine 972 Yáncūn 466-7 811 Victoria Harbour 17, 17 Wing Chun 994 Yángměi 631 Hǎotàiwáng Stele 182 Victoria Peak 507 women in China 957 Yángshuò 13, 621-4, 622, Jiāngjūnfén (General’s visas 193, 599, 1006-8, Wong Fei Hung 572 495 Tomb) 182 1009 Wǔdàdào 140 Yangzi River 23, 51-6, 52, Maulana Ashiddin Tibet 912-13, 920 Wǔdàlián Chí 197-9 23, 55 Mazar 812 volcanoes Wǔdāng Shān 448-51 Yánjí 180-1 Mazar of Imam Asim Yāntái 231-4, 232 825 Hǎikǒu Volcanic Cluster Wǔhàn 442-7, 444 Geopark 599-600 Wǔlóng 797-8 Yáolǐ 462 1050 Yàqīng 768 Yúlín 398-9 Z Zhèngzhōu 422-5, 423 Yarkand 827 Yúlín Grottoes 860 Zhālíng Lake 908 Zhènyuǎn 649-51, 650 Yatsen, Sun 944-5 Yùlóng River 660 Zhāngjiājiè 16, 480-5, Zhōngshān 797 Yellow Crane Tower 443 Yúnfēng Bāzhài 655 481, 16 Zhōngwèi 870-2, 871 Yellow River 908 Yúnfēng Shān 718 Zhāngyè 849-51 Zhōuzhuāng 261-2 Yengisar 823 Yúngāng Caves 19, 19, Zhàoqìng 577-9, 578 Zhuàngdàokǒu 128-9 INDEX INDEX Yíbīn 755-6 664 Zhàoxīng 648 Zhūgě 281-2 Yíchāng 452-3 Yúnnán 666-729, 667 Zhàozhōu Bridge 144 Zhūhǎi 585-7, 587 Yínchuān 866-70, 867 accommodation Zhèjiāng 263-89, 264 Zhūjiājiǎo 336 Y- 666 

Z Yīníng 830-1 accommodation 263 Zhūjiāyù 207  Yòuníng Monastery 898 climate 666 climate 263 Zhūxiān Zhèn 439 Yuányáng Rice Terraces food 666 food 263 Zìgòng 754-5 21, 680, 681, 21, 33 highlights 667 highlights 264 Zìlì 573 Yúcì Ancient City 371 travel seasons 666 travel seasons 263 Zīyuán 617 Yújiācūn 147 Yùshù 904-5 Zhèngdìng 145-7 Zōuchéng 219-20

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 1051 NOTES 1052 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1053

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Bradley Mayhew Tibet Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one re- tracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long-distance trails.

Rebecca Milner Ānhuī, Zhèjiāng, Hǎinán California born and longtime Tokyo-resident (14 years and counting!), Rebec- ca has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo, Japan, Korea and China. Her freelance writing covering travel, food and culture has been published in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan Times and more. After spending the better part of her twenties working to travel – doing odd jobs in Tokyo to make money so she could spend months at a time backpacking around Asia – Rebecca was fortunate enough to turn the tables in 2010, joining the Lonely Planet team of freelance writers.

Kate Morgan Shànghǎi Having lived and travelled extensively in North Asia, Kate was very keen for the chance to get back to explore Shànghǎi. Days were spent shooting up to the top of Pǔdōng skyscrapers, hunting out the best boutiques in the French Concession, tracing Jewish history in Hóngkǒu, taste-testing oolong tea and dining on dump- lings…not a bad day’s work. Kate has worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now on destinations including Japan, India, Melbourne and Zimbabwe.

Christopher Pitts Hénán, Héběi, Tiānjīn Chris started off his university years studying classical Chinese poetry before a week in 1990s Shànghǎi (en route to school in Kūnmíng) abruptly changed his focus to the idiosyncracies of modern China. Several years in Asia memorising Chinese characters got him hooked, and he returns whenever he can to immerse himself in what is surely one of the world’s most fascinating languages. He’s written for Lonely Planet China since 2004. Visit him online at www.christopherpitts.net.

Tom Spurling Fújiàn, Húběi, Jiāngxī, Guìzhōu Tom is an Australian guidebook author and high school teacher currently based in Hong Kong in search of the long-lost expatriate package. He’s worked on 13 Lonely Planet titles, including Japan, China, Central America, Turkey, India, South Africa and Australia. When not chasing his tail, he enjoys tucking it under his crossed legs for minutes on end.

Phillip Tang Guǎngdōng, Hēilóngjiāng, Liáoníng, Jílín Phillip grew up on typically Australian pho and fish’n’chips. A degree in Lat- in-American and Chinese cultures launched him into travel and writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Phillip has made his home in Sydney, Melbourne, London and Mexico City. His travels include most countries in Europe, much of Asia and Latin America, as well as the greatest hits of North America. Phillip writes about travel and the people there, who just call it living. He likes smelling fresh mint in a market in a new town and imagining a parallel life there. More pics and words: philliptang.co.uk. Phillip also wrote the Survival Guide chapters. Helen Elfer Hángzhōu, Shànghǎi Helen made Shanghai her home between 2007-10, so she was delighted to be able to return and contribute to the latest Lonely Planet China and Shanghai guides. After a two-year stint in Abu Dhabi, she moved back to London, working as a travel writer for various newspapers and magazines. She’s currently Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for the Middle East and North Africa.

Daisy Harper Shāndōng, Jiāngsū Born in the Shāndōng town of Qīngdǎo, Daisy grew up in China before going to university in Beijing to study English and then moving to the UK to pursue a career as a journalist and travel writer. A native speaker of Chinese, She has concentrated her energies on China travel, exploring and further fathoming her home country, working on four editions of Lonely Planet China to date.

Trent Holden Běijīng A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30 plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when as- signed to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs.

Stephen Lioy Sìchuān Stephen is a photographer, writer, hiker, and travel blogger based in Central Asia. A ‘once in a lifetime’ Eurotrip and post-university move to China set the stage for what would eventually become a semi-nomadic lifestyle based on sharing his experiences with would-be travellers and helping provide that initial push out of comfort zones and into all that the planet has to offer.

Shawn Low Qīnghǎi After many hot, sticky and sweaty years in Singapore, Shawn made for the cooler but more temperamental climes of Melbourne in 2001. He found his way into Lonely Planet as a book editor in 2006. Since then, he’s done two stints as a com- missioning editor and has constantly (sometimes successfully) flirted with the Lonely Planet TV. Shawn has penned a dozen LP guides and recently co-founded a London-based travel startup Firef.ly.

Tom Masters Xīnjiāng Tom has been travelling in China since 2004, having begun teaching himself Man- darin in his bedroom aged 14 during a bout of Sinophilia from which he’s never quite recovered. Tom has written many books about off-the-beaten track desti- nations for Lonely Planet, including as a regular author on the Central Asia guide, which made him an obvious choice to cover Xīnjiāng for this book. Tom lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net

Emily Matchar Chóngqìng, the Yangzi, Hong Kong A native of Chapel Hill, North Carolina, Emily first caught Relapsing Travel Fever during a high-school semester abroad in Argentina. To date, Emily has contribut- ed to some two dozen Lonely Planet guides. She also writes about culture, travel, politics and food for the New York Times, the Washington Post, the New Repub- lic, the Atlantic, Men’s Journal, Outside, Gourmet and many more. When she’s not busy rating Memphis barbecue joints, wandering around night markets in Laos, or tramping in New Zealand, she can be found chowing down on dumplings in her adopted city of Hong Kong. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Damian Harper Guǎngxī, Húnán, Shaanxi, Shānxī, Inner Mongolia, Níngxià Ten years of British boarding school gave Damian every incentive to explore new horizons beyond home. A degree in History of Art at Leeds University followed in 1995 and a few years later Damian applied to work on the Lonely Planet China guide. Since then, Damian has served as coordinating author on seven editions of the guide and has co-authored multiple editions of the Beijing and Shanghai city guides, Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, Vietnam, Thailand, London, Great Britain and Ire- land; Damian also wrote the 1st edition of Shanghai Encounter and Best of Shanghai and co-wrote China’s Southwest (3rd edition) and two Hong Kong titles. Damian also wrote the Understand and Planning chapters.

Piera Chen Hong Kong When not on the road, Piera divides her time between hometown Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vancouver. She has authored more than a dozen travel guides and contributed to as many travel-related titles. Piera has a BA in Literature from Pomona College. Her early life was peppered with trips to Taiwan, China and Southeast Asia, but it was during her first trip to Europe that dawn broke. She remembers being fresh off a flight, looking around her in Rome, thinking, ‘I want to be doing this every day.’ And she has.

Megan Eaves Gānsù Megan is Lonely Planet’s North Asia Destination Editor and her writing has ap- peared in Lonely Planet’s guidebooks to China and South Korea. Having lived everywhere from her home state of New Mexico to eastern China and Prague, she’s now based in Lonely Planet’s London office, where she’s the resident beer nerd and dumpling addict. If lost, she is likely to be found stargazing in a desert somewhere.

David Eimer Yúnnán, Běijīng David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 15th edition – June 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 522 7 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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