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| Sunday, Sept. 25, 2011 |SUNDAY,SEPT.25,2011 FOTOLIA PHOTO TRAVEL Planning a vacation? Get itiner D4 GO! the lay of the land CHICAGO Where to eat, shop, play and soak up culture BY MARIE ELENA MARTINEZ transportation hub that con- can taquerias line Pilsen, Aglass-flo Special to Newsday nected the eastern and west- Puerto Ricans chill around deck at th ern United States, now it’s the Humboldt Park and the larg- 103rd floo www.newsday.com hicago’s place on third most populous city in est Polish community gathers the world stage the country, behind New York around Avondale. All told, was set at the and Los Angeles. more than 200 neighborhoods extends fr Republican Today’s Chicago sits pretty vie for dominance. Lake Mich National Conven- on Lake Michigan and a jour- With hot and humid sum- sinewy Ch tion in 1860 ney up Lake Shore Drive mers and below-freezing essentially when Abraham reveals not only a photogenic winters, fall is an ideal time to half. CLincoln was nominated for waterfront — deep blue wa- visit. Here’s a look at five of The cou the presidency. Since then, it’s ters, moored boats, a public Chicago’s best neighborhoods ing, the W played a minor role in events ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGOtrack PHOTO for runners and bikers to explore. Sears) To such as The Great Fire and Visitors throng the Art Institute of Chicago, in the Loop. —butarosteroficonicChica- visitors ca The World’s Fair, nurtured go strongholds such as Lol- the Skyde gangster Al Capone’s legacy and ushered in a new era of Jordan as marquee residents lapollooza’s Grant Park, the The Loop and take C jazz. and holds fast to deep-dish Chicago Bears’ Soldier Field, GOOD FOR Sightseeing high ($17 a The former Obama stomp- pizza and Chicago-style hot Navy Pier and an unforgetta- Aworldfinancialcenter theskydec ON THE COVER ing ground has counted leg- dogs, while embracing its ble view of the city’s skyline. and media hub, much of Chica- Awalk NEWSDAY, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 25,AtourboatontheChicago 2011 ends ranging from Oprah to many Michelin-starred scene- In many ways, the city is a go’s business is clustered Wabash, R River gets a downtown view. Hugh Hefner to Michael makers. Once a mere 1800s Midwest melting pot — Mexi- around “The Loop,” which streets sho rary ideas and virtual tours of popular destinations. D5 CHICAGO TRIBUNE PHOTO Carmine’s on Rush Street is in the Gold Coast neighborhood. BLOOMBERG NEWS PHOTO The Gold Coast neighborhood is dotted with mansions. GETTY IMAGES PHOTO “Forever Marilyn” by Seward Johnson was unveiled this summer. BLOOMBERG PHOTO oored observation of downtown Chicago: Grassy has the second-largest collec- heWillisTower’s spaces and parks litter the city tion of art in the country after or. grid, offsetting limestone and New York’s Metropolitan. concrete. Monets abound, but make On a clear day, take time sure to steal a peek at Edward rom the banks of to wander Millennium Park. Hopper’s Nighthawks. ($18 higan through the A wonderland of public art adults, free younger than 14, hicago Riverfront to exhibits, The Frank Gehry- artic.edu). y cut downtown in designed Jay Pritzker Pavil- lion is the centerpiece offer- untry’s tallest build- ing live music events, while The Gold Coast Willis (formerly the Crown Fountain, which GOOD FOR Shopping wer, is here and projects images of locals on Aptly named, the historic anshoot1,353feetto two 50-foot screens, can Gold Coast district offers eck on the 103rd floor hold unruly kids (and some of Chicago’s finest real Chicago in from on adults) captive for hours estate for both nesting and adults, $11 ages 3-11, (millenniumpark.org). shopping. Dotted with door- ck.com). For Impressionist and post- man-patrolled high-rises, along State, impressionist aficionados, hit luxury brands such as Chanel, Rush and Clark Michigan Avenue’s Art Insti- owcases the essence tute of Chicago. The museum See CHICAGO on D6 TRAVEL D6 Chicago, GO! from Loop to Lake CHICAGO from D5 Loop was once a mix of meat- packing factories, produce Barneys, Jimmy Choo, Prada markets, wholesale outlets and and Hermès make their homes the city’s oldest building — along Oak Street, anchoring Old St. Patrick’s Catholic high-end hotels like the Church. Elysian and The Drake. The These days, mixed in are adjacent Magnificent Mile stunning loft condos, bou- (themagnificentmile.com) on tiques, swank art galleries and Michigan Avenue only ups the afunkyvintagemarketon ante. Randolph Street that features AstrolldownleafyAstor more than 200 furnishing, GETTY IMAGES PHOTO Street offers an architectural clothing, jewelry and collect- Fans on Wrigley Field rooftops try to bring the Cubbies some luck; the West Loop, below left, is glimpse of the immaculately ible vendors (randolphstreet great for eating and for browsing for collectibles; try Bucktown, right, for people-watching. kept mansions and greystones market.com). Add to that, of yesteryear. On State Street, restaurants; the West Loop is the original Playboy Mansion fast becoming Chicago’s gour- can be ogled from afar. mand go-to destination. When you need a retail “Top Chef” winner break, restaurants such as Stephanie Izard’s Girl and the Italian favorite Spiaggia and Goat is an unpretentious spot the reopened Pump Room (a that’s always booked, but if favorite of Frank Sinatra, Dean you’re up for a couple of cock- Martin and Judy Garland) at tails, you can wait out a walk- Ian Schrager’s new Public in spot (girlandthegoat.com). hotel keep the well-to-do well Down the street at the com- fed (publichotels.com). munal Publican, the small Be aware of the “Viagra plates menu focuses on fish Triangle,” a small park at the and pork. Start with some intersection of State and Rush oysters ($30 a dozen), and then streets, a notorious pickup try the ham tasting ($21, spot. Instead, refuel across the thepublicanrestaurant.com). way with some deep-dish You can’t talk food in Chica- sausage pizza at Lou Malnati’s. go without mentioning Grant The clubby, subway-tiled Achatz, the James Beard KRT PHOTO AP PHOTO space is one of many locations Award winner behind the and, contrary to Gold Coast highly successful Alinea, and (bigstarchicago.com) on philosophy, will go easy on now the West Loop’s Next. At Wrigleyville Bucktown Damen while Wicker Park, your wallet ($12 for a small pie, Next, each three-month menu GOOD FOR Sport itself, is in full swirl. The loumalnatis.com). is based around a theme (most Rising up above residential /Wicker Park baseball diamond plays host recently, Thailand), and tickets streets, a motley collection of GOOD FOR Chilling out to a local game, children’s are sold for nightly seatings bars and restaurants ignites It’s hard to tell where groups form near the The West Loop (nextrestaurant.com). Impossi- into madness as the Chicago Bucktown ends and Wicker playground and couples GOOD FOR Eating ble to land a coveted ticket? Cubs play ball at their home Park begins. A cross between canoodle in tree-lined nooks Home to Oprah Winfrey’s Try for a reservation at Aviary, park since 1916. Roars engulf Greenwich Village and Will- that overlook a neighborhood www.newsday.com Harpo Studios (Rosie the Grant Achatz über-cocktail the stadium with each turn of iamsburg, these artsy neigh- of two- and three-story brick O’Donnell’s new set), the West bar next door (theaviary.com). the bat. Although they haven’t borhoods are buzzing with row houses with gated won a championship in more pedestrians, cafes, bookstores porches. than 100 years, 40,000-plus and record shops, which On Milwaukee or Division fans file inside the stadium to makes for great people-watch- streets, sit at one of the IF YOU GO watch one of the country’s ing. many sidewalk cafes such as only hand-turned scoreboards. BYOB sushi bars alternate Milk and Honey for a chat BY AIR Several airlines fly nonstop between New York City For a novel way to watch with tequila lounges and (milkandhoneycafe.com) airports and Chicago O’Hare. Southwest operates nonstop the game, check out Wrigley health food stores. Yoga or grab a late afternoon cock- flights between Long Island MacArthur airport and Chicago’s Field rooftops, a guide to centers abound. The commu- tail at Bangers & Lace 1 Midway airports. Trips take about 2/2 hours. alternative venues around the nity hosts events such as the (bangersandlacechicago.com). stadium that have bleachers, late summer Bucktown Arts For serious grub, it’s all GETTING AROUND The city’s “El” train can be used to get open bars and food for up to Fest to help artists and micro- about Schwa, a comfort food from place to place within the city. Buses and taxis are 200 people. Expect to spend galleries gain exposure. joint with a twist that’s any- affordable and readily available. A car rental is an expensive at least $75 for regular-season On the weekend, the young thing but regular ($110 for a nuisance. games — and book early and hip are wolfing tacos nine-course tasting menu, NEWSDAY, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2011 (wrigleyrooftops.com). ($3) and Coronas at Big Star schwarestaurant.com)..
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