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A Methodology for Analysis of Historic Textiles Ancon, Peru

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AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF Sally Jo Ishikawa for the degree of Master of Arts in Interdisciplinary Studies in the co-departments of Apparel, Interiors, and Merchandising, Museum Studies, and Anthropology, presented on May 5, 1989. Title: A Methodology for Analysis of Historic Textiles: Ancon, Peru Redacted for privacy Abstract approved: r Dr. LoErna Simpson Twenty-four woven Pre-Columbian textiles in the Apparel, Interiors and Merchandising Department (AIM)of Oregon State University were reported to be from Ancon, Peru. A methodology was developed to confirmthe exact provenance of the AIM textiles. Technical fabrication characteristics were utilized to describe certain known Ancon woven textiles and to analyze the twenty-fourAIM textiles; then comparisons were attempted between thetwo groups to determine if internal patternsfor each were identical. A literature and collection survey identified ten documented reports of known Ancon woven textiles. The previously recorded information of the known Ancon pieces was summarized. Technical fabrication characteristics for each AIM textile were observed and recorded. The technical fabrication characteristics included weave structure, thread count, fiber content, direction ofspin, ply, degree of twist, yarn diameter, color andmotif. Frequencies and especially developed analysis tools were utilized to identify internal patterns. Hypothesis 1 stated that information about the technical fabrication elements of Ancon woven textilesin certain other collections can be organized intointegrated patterns. Hypothesis 1 was not supported because data recorded on Ancon woven textiles was incomplete,and therefore only able to give limited frequencies. Hypothesis 2 was supported: The twenty-four woven Pre-Columbian textiles from the Costume and Textile Collection of the Apparel, Interiors andMerchandising Department of Oregon State University will havesimilar patterns in technical fabrication elements. An analysis tool was developed to show patterns withintechnical fabrication elements. Thread count, direction of spin, ply, and degree of twist exhibited internalpatterns. Hypothesis 3 stated that the provenance of twenty-four woven Pre-Columbian textiles, from the Costume and Textile Collection of the Apparel, Interiors and Merchandising Department of Oregon State University is Ancon, Peru. This hypothesis could not be tested because technical fabrication patterns for the known Ancon weavings were not complete and could not be statistically analyzed. Even though the two sets of data populations (data from known Ancon textiles and data from the AIM collection) could not be compared statistically, some information was gained by a review and comparison of simple frequencies of internal patterns. Thread count frequencies for both populations exhibited internal patterns. A Methodology for Analysis of Historic Textiles: Ancon, Peru by Sally Jo Ishikawa A THESIS submitted to Oregon State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Interdisciplinary Studies Completed May 5, 1989 CommencementJune 1989 APPROVED: Redacted for privacy Assistant Professot of Apparel, Interiors, and Merchandising in charge of major Redacted for privacy Assistant /Professor oPfAnthropology in chargeof co-field Redacted for privacy Professor of Anthropology iii-trfaige of co-field Redacted for privacy Head of/department of Apparel, Interiors,and Merchandising Redacted for privacy Dean of Gr ate Schoq Date thesis is presentedMay 5. 1989 Typed by researcher for Sally JoIshikawa ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The writer wishes to thank the committee members for their expertise, advise and encouragement. Deepest appreciation to Dr. LoErna Simpson, Apparel, Interiors and Merchandising, for her wisdom and guidance. Dr. Richard Ross, Department of Anthropology, was the impetus for the hypotheses; Lucy Skjelstad, Museum Studies, was extremely enthusiastic and supportive; and Dr. William Jenne' was a thoughtful editor. A sincere thanks and appreciation go to the many other people who were instrumental to this research document: Mike Kellogg measured yarns using the Hewlett-Packard OGP Tony and Paula Yokoyama - took photographs of yarns using a photomicroscope Karen Hennessy - translated a crucial passage in a Peruvian dye manual Jeannine Horton - my friend and weaving mentor Finally, deepest gratitude is expressed to my friends and family for their encouragement and understanding. Their constant faith and support were imperative. My husband and best friend, Les, was tireless in his encouragement and understanding. Thank you for setting up the computer, and helping to format the print. Thank you for eating soup night after night. Thank you for being forgiving when I was tired. Thank you. Thank you. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Paae I INTRODUCTION 1 Research Questions 3 Purpose 4 Hypotheses 5 Assumptions 6 Limitations 6 Definitions of Terms 7 II REVIEW OF LITERATURE 10 Ancon Environmental Setting 15 History of Ancon Archaeology 17 History of Ancon Occupation 20 Ancon: Preceramic Period throughEarly Horizon Period - Through ca. 50B.C. 22 Ancon: Early Intermediate Period- ca. 50 B.C. to ca. 580 A.D. 24 Ancon: Middle Horizon Period - ca. 580 A.D. to ca. 930 A.D. 24 Ancon: Late Intermediate Period- ca. 930 A.D. to 1476 A.D. 28 Ancon: Late Horizon Period - 1476 A.D. to 1534 A.D. 29 Chronology of Textile Fabrication Characteristics at Ancon 30 Weave Structure 31 Thread count 35 Fiber Content 35 Direction of Spin 37 TABLE OF CONTENTS (cont.) Chapter Page Ply 38 Degree of Twist 39 Yarn Diameter 39 Color 40 Motif 44 Clothing from Ancon 48 Summary 50 III PROCEDURE 51 Literature and Collections Survey Procedure: Known Ancon Textiles 52 Categories Used in Literature and Collections Survey of Known Ancon Textiles 53 Technical Fabrication Analysis Procedure: AIM Textiles 57 General Tools for Museum Textile Analysis 57 Analytical Tools and Environment for AIM Analysis 59 Categories Used in Technical Fabrication Analysis of AIM Textiles 61 Internal Pattern Identification for AIM Textiles 68 Comparison of Known Ancon Textiles with AIM Textiles 70 IV FINDINGS 71 Discussion of Survey on Known Ancon Woven Textiles 71 Description of Twenty-Four Woven Textiles in the AIM Collection 78 TABLE OF CONTENTS (cont.) Chapter Page Specimen1 79 Specimen2 84 Specimen3 87 Specimen4 91 Specimen5 94 Specimen6 99 Specimen7 102 Specimen8 106 Specimen9 109 Specimen10 112 Specimen11 116 Specimen12 119 Specimen13 123 Specimen14 126 Specimen15 129 Specimen16 133 Specimen17 136 Specimen18 139 Specimen19 142 Specimen20 145 Specimen21 148 Specimen22 151 Specimen23 154 TABLE OF CONTENTS (cont.) Chapter Page Specimen 24 157 Summary of Technical Fabrication Characteristics for the AIM Textiles 160 Weave Structure 160 Thread count 163 Fiber Content 167 Direction of Spin 170 Ply 172 Twist Per Centimeter 174 Yarn Diameter 177 Color 179 Motif 182 Analysis of Technical Fabrication Characteristics in AIM Textiles 185 V DISCUSSIONS AND CONCLUSIONS 191 Hypothesis 1 191 Hypothesis 2 193 Hypothesis 3 198 Discussion of Available Documentation 198 Use of Analysis Tool 200 Consideration of AIM Textiles with No Internal Pattern 203 VI RECOMMENDATIONS 204 Use of Present Study 204 TABLE OF CONTENTS (cont.) Chapter Page Improvement of the Present Study 205 Further Study 206 REFERENCES 207 APPENDICES Appendix A - Survey of Known Ancon Woven Textiles 213 Appendix B - Data Sheet for Textile Analysis 220 Appendix C - Condensed Data for AIM Collection 222 Appendix D - Thesis Computer Formatting 226 Appendix E - AIM Specimen Scores 228 LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1. Map of Peru 12 2. Chronology of Ancon 13 3. Cotton Fiber Magnified to X 100 62 4. Cameloid Fiber Magnified to X 100 63 5. Dimensions of Specimen 1 79 6. Yarn Design and Colors of Specimen1 80 7. Feline Motif Within Specimen 1 81 8. Specimen 1 83 9. Dimensions of Specimen 2 84 10. Specimen 2 86 11. Dimensions and Motif of Specimen 3 87 12. Specimen 3 90 13. Dimensions and Motif of Specimen 4 91 14. Specimen 4 93 15. Dimensions of Specimen 5 94 16. Feline Motif of Specimen 5 95 17. Specimen 5 97 18. Back of Specimen 5 98 19. Dimensions of Specimen 6 99 20. Fish Motif of Specimen 6 100 21. Specimen 6 101 22. Dimensions of Specimen 7 102 23. Specimen 7 105 24. Dimensions of Specimen 8 106 LIST OF FIGURES (cont.) Figure Pacte 25. Weave Structure of Specimen 8 107 26. Specimen 8 108 27. Dimensions of Specimen 9 109 28. Specimen 9 111 29. Dimensions of Specimen 10 112 30. Specimen 10 115 31. Dimensions of Specimen 11 116 32. Specimen 11 118 33. Dimensions of Specimen 12 119 34. Llama motif of Specimen 12 120 35. Specimen 12 122 36. Dimensions of Specimen 13 123 37. Specimen 13 125 38. Dimensions of Specimen 14 126 39. Llama and Human Motif of Specimen 14 127 40. Specimen 14 128 41. Dimensions of Specimen 15 129 42. Motif of Specimen 15 150 43. Specimen 15 132 44. Dimensions of Specimen 16 133 45. Specimen 16 135 46. Dimensions of Specimen 17 136 47. Specimen 17 138 48. Dimensions of Specimen 18 139 LIST OF FIGURES (cont.) Figure Page 49. Feline Motif of Specimen 18 140 50. Specimen 18 141 51. Dimensions of Specimen 19 142 52. Specimen 19 144 53. Dimensions of Specimen 20 145 54. Specimen 20 147 55. Dimensions of Specimen 21 148 56. Specimen 21 150 57. Dimensions of Specimen 22 151 58. Specimen 22 153 59. Dimensions of Specimen 23 154 60. Embroidery Techniques used on Specimen 23 155 61. Specimen 23 156 62. Dimensions of Specimen 24 157 63. Specimen 24 159 64. Thread count for twenty-four AIM Specimens 165 65. Percentage Cumulative Specimen Scores for AIM Textiles 189 LIST OF TABLES Table Page 1. Historic Periods Along the Peruvian Coast 21 2. Weave Structure Frequency Groupings of AIM Textiles 162 3. Thread count Frequency Groupings of AIM Textiles 166 4. Fiber Content Frequency Groupings of AIM Textiles 169 5. Direction of Spin Frequency Groupings of AIM Textiles 171 6. Ply Characteristics Frequency Groupings of AIM Textiles 173 7. Twist Per Centimeter for Various Types of Yarn 174 8. Twist Per Centimeter (TPC) Frequency Groupings of AIM Textiles 176 9.
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