CHEESE MAKING; Domestic and For

Cheese Makim Cheddar Swiss Brick Edam Limburger Cottage, etc. DECKER Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/cheesemaking01deck CHEESE MAKING CHEDDAR, SWISS, BRICK, LIMBURGER, EDAM, COTTAGE, ETC. BY JOHN W. DECKER, B.Agr. LATE PROFESSOR OF DAIRYING, OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY FIFTH REVISED EDITION BY F. W. WOLL, Ph.D. PROFESSOR OF AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY, UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN ILLUSTRATED MADISON, WIS. MENDOTA BOOK COMPANY 1909 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED o<?4'^^ "^^.m LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies Received JAN 25 1909 ^ Copyristnt Entry tlASS o^ XXc, No. COP' COPYRIGHTED JOHN W. DECKER 1900 MENDOTA BOOK COMPANY 1909 Cantwell Printing Company madison, wisconsin Value of Fat in Milk for Cheese Production. The yield of cheese increases, and its quality improves with increasing fat contents of the milk. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Chapter. P^ge. I— The Constitution of Milk 1 II—Secretion and Contamination of Milk .... 12 III—Milk Testing 24 IV—Enzymes 34. V— Tlie Deportment of Eennet 43 VI— Cheddar Cheese 48 VII— Cutting and Heating the Curd 57 ^m—Drawing the Whey—Dipping and Milling the Curd 63 IX— Salting and Pressing the Curd 78 X— Curing and Shipping the Cheese 94 XI— Judging Cheese HO ^11— Hints on the Construction and Operation of Cheese Factories ]^]^7 Xni— Organization of Cheese Factory Associations . 131 XIV — Swiss Cheese—its Characteristics 137 XV— Swiss Cheese^from Milk to Curing Cellar . 144 XVI— Swiss Cheese—Work in the Cellar 158 XVII Brick Cheese — ]^g2 XVIII — Limburger Cheese 269 XIX Edam Cheese — 3^74 XX— Cottage, Neufchatel and Soft Cream Cheese . 184 XXI—Foreign and Domestic Cheese of Minor Importance 189 Appendix. 1— Composition of Milk and Its Products ... 196 2— Analyses of Different Kinds of Cheese ... 197 3— The Cheese Market of the United States . 197 4— Yield of Cheese from 100 Pounds of Milk . 198 5— Government Standards of Purity for Cheese . 198 6— Definition of a good American Cheddar Cheese . 199 7—Defects in American Cheddar Cheese .... 199 8— Standards for Grading Canadian Cheddar Cheese 206 TO STEPHEN MOULTON BABCOCK, Ph.D. OTIEF CHEMIST OF THE WISCONSIN EXPERIMENT STATION WHO, AS A TEACHER, AND LATER AS A CO-WORKER. BY PATIENT LABOR AND WISE COUNSEL, INSPIRED THE AUTHOR WITH A GREATER LOVE FOR THE PROFESSION OF DAIRYING THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED PREFACE TO FOURTH EDITION. The American dairy school is of recent origin, the first one having been started in Wisconsin in 1891. With the dairy school came the need of pedagogic state- ments of the subjects taught therein. It fell to the lot of the author of this book to make such a statement of cheese making. His first attempt was printed in 1893 under the title of "Cheddar Cheese Making." This first attempt met with an encouraging reception and was translated into the French language by Emile Castel for the use of the Canadians in the Province of Quebec. A second and revised edition under the same name was printed in 1895. In 1900 the book was again revised and the scope enlarged to include Swiss, Brick, Limburger, Edam and Cottage cheese, and the title changed to that of "Cheese Making." The edition printed at that time is now exhausted and our nowledge of the subject has increased, requiring a number of important changes to bring the book up to date. Because of their relation to the subject, milk testing and dairy bacteriology have been touched upon briefly. An ex- haustive treatment has not been necessary as there are text- books treating these subjects. This is primarily a text-book and not a reference volume. To make the latter out of it would make it unwieldly for the former purpose. An analytical index, a complete table of contents, and references to original matter will, however, assist the busy man, student or instructor to look up references quickly or to find original data, John W. Decker. Columbus, 0., Jan. 1, 1905. PEEFACE TO FIFTH EDITION. The untimely death of the author of this book last year re- moved a pioneer student and investigator of cheese making in this country. By education and training Professor Decker was equipped as few for educational work in his chosen profession, and he gave to this work his undivided energies and enthusiasm. As instructor in dairying in the University of Wisconsin and later as professor of dairying in the Ohio State University he labored untiringly and with great success for the upbuilding of the dairy industry of these states, and for the general advance- ment of American dairying. The work done in writing this book has been of as great importance as Professor Decker's labors as a teacher and lecturer. For fifteen years it has been the standard book in the English language on the subject of Cheese Making and has been used as a text-bcok in all American agricultural colleges in which special courses in cheese making are offered. In preparing a new edition of my lamented co-worker's book, it has been my effort to retain, as far as possible, its stamp of individuality, and changes have only been introduced where it was deemed very desirable to do so. Discussions of a number of new topics have, however, been added in order that the book may continue to be a thor- oughly reliable and up-to-date guide to the manufacture of American cheddar and other kinds of cheese made in this country. Among new subjects that have been discussed in this edition may be mentioned : Cold-curing and paraffining of cheddar cheese, use of acidimeter, Hart's test for casein in milk, a synop- sis of defects in American cheddar cheese, manufacture of Camembert, Gouda, Italian, Potted, Sage and other kinds of fancy cheese, etc. Aclmowledgement is due my colleagues, Professor E. H. Farrington and Messrs. M. Michels and Roy T. Harris, for valu- able aid rendered in the preparation of this edition ; also to Wis- consin Experiment Station and Creamery Package Mfg. Co. of Chicago, for the loan of cuts. F. W. WOLL. Madison, Wis., Dec. 28, 1908. CHAPTER I. THE CONSTITUTION OF MILK. 1. Uses of Milk. Cows' milk is given for the primary purpose of nourishing the young calf until it can seek its own food. Man has diverted milk from its original purpose and has made it one of the most important human foods. The cow originally gave only enough milk to nourish its calf until this could take care of itself and, therefore, produced milk for only a brief period of time; but the modem dairy cow has been gradually developed by intelli- gent selection, feeding, and breeding so that she produces milk in large quantities and for nearly an entire year after each calving. Aside from its use for direct consumption, milk is used for the manufacture of a number of human food products, like cream, butter, cheese, condensed milk, etc. 2. Composition of Milk. Since milk was by nature intended for the nourishment of the calf, one might expect to find that it contains all the food elements necessary for the building up of the young animal's body. An analysis reveals the presence of water, which is ab- solutely necessary for the maintenance of life ; ash is needed for the bones ; iiitrogenous ynateiial in the form of casein and albumen, etc., nourishes the muscles, hair, hoofs and horns ; and car- honaceo'us matter in the form of sugar and fat maintains the heat of the body. A¥e shall now consider briefly the main characteristics of the various components of milk. 3. Albuminoids or Proteins. The albuminoids or proteins contain the nitrogen of the milk and consist mainly of two substances, casein and albumen. Casein. The casein is the part of the milk that is curdled by rennet or weak acids. It is commonly supposed to be dissolved 2 Cheese Making. in the water of the milk, but this is not strictly true. If milk be filtered through a porcelain filter it will leave a gelatinous mass on the filter, which is the casein; or, if skim milk be re- volved for a long time in a separator bowl, a layer of casein will be deposited on the walls of the bowl. Casein is dissolved in solutions of borax, sodium phosphate, and alkalies. It is used commercially as a sizing for paper. Albumen. The casein does not constitute all of the protein of milk. When milk has been coagulated by rennet the casein is precipitated. If the whey be heated to 180° F. another precipi- tate will be thrown down. This is the albumen. It is much like the white of an egg which is coagulated by heat. It is in solution until the heat precipitates it. Albumen is not incorporated in Cheddar cheese in the ordinary method of manufacture, and cannot apparently be so incorporated without re- sulting in the making of sour cheese. In addition to the casein and albumen of the milk, small amounts of other nitrogenous components are always present, but our knowledge of these substances is as yet incomplete. 4. Ash. The ash is the bone-forming part of the milk and consists largely of phosphates of calcium and potash, with some chlor- ides. Although the ash is present only in small quantities in the milk it is of great importance in cheese making. Part of the calcium salts is supposed to be suspended as fine particles in the milk or held in combination with the casein, but a part is certainly held in solution and on this solubility of calcium salts depends the property of coagulation by rennet.

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